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UNIVEKSin OF CALIFORNM
RIVtRSn)E

I
THE LAND OF THE NEW
GUINEA PYGMIES
 THE LAND
OF THE

NEW GUINEA PYGMIES

AN ACCOUNT OF THE STORY OF A PIONEER JOURNEY
OF EXPLORATION INTO THE HEART OF
NEW GUINEA

• - ^yfBY

CAPTAIN C. G. RAWLING, CLE., F.R.G.S.

SOMERSET LIGHT INFANTRY
AUTHOR OF "THE GREAT PLATEAU," Sj^C, &=€.

With 48 Illustrations ^ a Map

LONDON
SEELEY, SERVICE ^ CO. LIMITED
38 Great Russell Street
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 TO

Sir CLEMENTS R. MARKHAM, K.C.B., D.Sc, F.R.S., F.S.A.

(LATE PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY)

TO WHOSE EXPLORATIONS AND RESEARCH WE ARE SO

HEAVILY INDEBTED ; TO WHOM EXPLORERS

AND GEOGRAPHERS ARE UNDER

SO GREAT AN OBLIGATION

%
 PREFACE
My best thanks are due to H. S. Harrison, Esq.,

D.Sc., F.R.A.I., for his monograph on the Pygmies

which I have ventured to introduce into this book as

Chapter XIX. Not only is it a valuable addition to

the scientific results of the expedition, but it suggests a

line of thought which may be followed with advantage

by all those who are interested in the origin of the

living races of man. References and ultra- scientific

terms have been omitted in order to bring before the

general reader the trend of present thought on this

subject.

Vll
 CONTENTS
CHAPTER I

Life in the sixteenth century— Gallant pioneers — A Portuguese

—Discovery of New Guinea —Dutch enterprise
explorer
Famous travellers — Native hostility — European annexation
—The Dutch section — An unknown country .... 17-25

CHAPTER n
Organising an expedition — Learning by experience — Forming the
party—The survey staff— Transport arrangements —The food-
problem — Ill-chosen supplies — En route — Dutch courtesy
Enlarging the staff— The line of advance — Java — Due east
—A curious prison regime — Dobo— The island of New Guinea
—The Mimika district— The coast-line 26-39

CHAPTER III

First impressions —A doubtful reception — First overtures

Boarded —
by savages Exemplary behaviour Into the un-—
— —
known The Mimika River An enthusiastic welcome
— —
Wakatimi A village community Selecting a site Un- —
mannerly curiosity 40-52

CHAPTER IV
— —
Coast and up-river tribes The Papuan Albinos Native hair- —
— —
dressing Personal adornments Native costume Civilisa- —
tion —
and morality Compulsory clothing Widow's weeds —
— — —
Male attire Improving nature The drunken savage —
—
Corporal punishment Treatment of children Female sub- —
— —
jugation Native diet A curious delicacy— A fertile soil
Native indolence 53-67
ix
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER V
Shark-fishing — Poor sport— Barter and exchange —A primitive
aboriginal —Ugly rumours —Cannibalism—An open question
Difficulties of pioneering — Learning the language — A Papuan
canoe — Buying a fleet 68-79

CHAPTER VI

A missing comrade—A fruitless search—A heavy blow—Unprofit-

able zeal— River navigation — Collecting transport — The
Mimika River — Difficult navigation — River — River
flora

fauna — Big game — Wallaby and cuscus — Insect pests —

Snakes — A day of surprises — An extraordinary welcome . 80-94

CHAPTER VII

Parimau — Single combat —Treatment of wives — Towards the hills

— Forest growth—Woodcraft — The Kapare—Preparing for an

attack — Negotiating — Panic —Wild scenery— Difficulties with
coolies — Friendly villages — Difficult canoeing — Rain — Short
rations ........... 95-107

CHAPTER VIII

Unpleasant work —Chasing pygmies —Captured pygmies —Pygmy

—
equipment— Primitive methods — Pygmy history Penetrat-
— —
ing the mountains Stalking human game Brave Pygmies
—
Land of the Pygmies Attempts to penetrate the country
— Hill plantations— Fresh line of advance .... 108-121

CHAPTER IX
Parimau —A promising farmyard— Native dogs —Pet animals
A cassowary — Up the Mimika— Arduous travelling — Capsised
—The —
language " Oewera-mina "—^Birth, marriage, death
Disease —Burial — —
Medicine A brisk market in skulls —
— —
Religion Courage of the natives Useful electric torch . . 122-141
X
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER X
PAGES
The track to Ibo—The Tuaba River —Inundations —Tattoo marks
Hospitality —A moment — Expeditious house moving
critical

—A zoological collection — The bower-bird — Birds of paradise

— Arrival of fresh coolies — Poling and paddling — Trade
articles 142-156

CHAPTER XI
A village brawl — Cooled ardour — A pig festival — Highway robbery
—Restitution— Theft —Dishonoured notes —Wife beating
Our steam-launch — A transformation — The Dreadnought . . 157-172

CHAPTER XII
The village of Nime — An inundated village — A timely rescue
Barter and exchange —Clubs— Strategy— Second trip up the
Kaiqua 173-180

CHAPTER XIII
—
Coast and up-river natives The headman of Nime A dignified —
— —
character Native curiosity Photographs and pictures
— —
Native drawings Novelty and amusement Scenery on the
Atoeka — An albino—Buying a motor launch— Collapse of a
village — A miserable experience — Halley's comet — An enjoy-
able change .......... 181-195

CHAPTER XIV
Up the Wataikvva —
A stampede of carriers— A toilsome retreat
— Vicarious punishment —
Disappointing behaviour New—
— —
Guinea flies The wet season Crossing the Kamura The —
— —
hidden baggage Difficult survejing Alternative plans
—
The course of the Wataikwa Pleasant speculations A pre- —
—
carious position Cutting through the forest —
Hampered
—
work— A turbulent stream Hewing and cutting Dense —
—
vegetation Dreary work 196-210
xi
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XV
PAGES
Cheerless prospects — Shattered hopes — Ill-used
Gurkhas Fresh —
stores — —
A bolting gun-bearer Birds of paradise Return to —
— —
the Wataikwa Difficulties of surveying Photographing the
natives 211-221

CHAPTER XVI
Floods at Parimau — A burial — Depressing circumstances —A suc-
cessful clearing — Natives' idea of supply and demand
Mosquitoes and leeches — The value of medicine — Mortality
of the expedition —Beri-beri —Malaria 222-233

CHAPTER XVII
Illness of Goodfellow—A cheerless place — Our ill-fated launch
The art of poling — A hearty welcome — Propitiating the river
gods — Scarcity of game — Loss of canoes — A rain-soaked
country— Migration — Valuable detail work— Pygmy villages
—The expedition split up —Lost coolies 234-245

CHAPTER XVIII
Tapiro Mountain — —
The home of the pygmies Effects of the floods
—A silunt — —
march Nervous carriers Excited pygmies —
poor joko — Churlish — Physical characteristics— Dress
hosts
—Personal treasures — Head-dresses — Plainsman and pygmy
— A struggle for existence —Clearings — Elusive women —The
incomprehensible white man — Superior plainsmen — My sus-
picious guide — A hostile headsman — Timid women-folk — Our
departure — Measurements of pygmies 246-264

CHAPTER XIX
— —
Dwarfs and giants The pygmy question Negritos or negrillos
— — —
Head-form Origin of pygmies Various views An open —
— —
question Pygmy culture Weapons Fire-making The use— —
of stone — —
Arts and crafts —Decorative art Social and tribal
—
organisation Status Antiquity— 265-278
xii
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XX
PAGES
— —
Return to the coast No coolies A fine dancing hall Native —
— — —
music Dancing The tocsin of war A false alarm A peace- —
— — —
ful time
—
Myriads of crabs Native children Children's
—
games Methods of fishing Brush turkey ....
279-290

CHAPTER XXI
Unpromising coolies — The problem of the — Our motor boat
hills

— Difl&cult navigation— Interested motives— A double murder

— Organising the advance — The advance to the mountains
Papuans and the axes —A change in the river— Crossing the
Wataikwa — A flooded river— Coal — Rock formation — Unpro-
mising prospects—An arduous climb — A grand outlook . . 291-307

CHAPTER XXH
Searching for a ford —A
dangerous undertaking A plucky —
Gurkha— Building —
Second stage of our advance
a bridge
—
—The stores an important factor Effects of temperature
— — —
Bad going Reduced rations Miserable coolies A race —
— — —
with the clouds Success A fine view The Nassau range
— Oil and minerals —
The Utakwa River Mount Idenburg—
— — —
Tapiro Mountain Plains and rivers Doctor Lorentz The —
price of success — —
The return journey A feast and its results 308-326

CHAPTER XXni
— — —
Preparing to leave Bashful pygmy women A hurricane Motor
— — —
boat on fire The Atoeka River A cordial welcome Inspect-
— — —
ing a village Dancing halls A return visit Keen traders
— The Kamura— A collision — Kamura village — A wild-looking
crew — Attacked — An erratic motor — A glorious bay —
Gorgeous coloured — Return to Wakatimi
fish ....
327-341
xiii
 CONTENTS

CHAPTER XXIV
PAGKS
Wania Bay —An unexpected bar —Our unfortunate motor boat
A lost propeller —A critical position —Salving the launch —
humorous comparison —The last voyage —A welcome sight
An unexpected reinforcement 342-352

CHAPTER XXV
Completed work — Results of the expedition — Disappointed hopes
— Relief ships — Anticipating trouble — Scenes of turmoil
Civilising influence — Dobo — Dispersal of the Expedition —
Dutch hospitality 353-360

Index 361-360

XIV
 ILLUSTRATIONS
Dr. Marshall and Pygmies
 ILLUSTRATIONS
Men Securing and Binding the Boars

The Slaughter Platform .....

A — Wailing and Lamentation
Pig Feast .

A Pig Feast —Women Crying Over the Carcases

Forcing the Canoes Past the Timber Blocks on the Mimika

A Party of Papuans Travelling Fast on the Kaiqua River

A Headman .....
Effects of a Flood ....
Greater Bird of Paradise

.....
.

A Patriarch

View Looking East from Parimau Clearing

" The Idle, Slothful Savage "

.....
.

Boy Scouts
Tapiro Pygmies ....
A Typical Pygmy House
.....
.

At Wamberimi
Tapiro Pygmies —A Friendly Attitude
Plainsmen and Pygmies .

A Dancing Hall ....

Tapiro Pygmies —Discussing the Situation
From Above Iwaka Camp ,

The Wataikwa River

The Gurkha Jangbir
Spanning the Torrent

Women Using the Stone Axe .

The Camp at 5400 Feet .

Suspicious Movements
xvi
 THE LAND OF THE
NEW GUINEA PYGMIES
CHAPTER I

— —
Gallant pioneers A Portuguese explorer
Life in the sixteenth century
— —
Discovery of New Guinea Dutch enterprise Famous travellers
— — —
Native hostility European annexation The Dutch section An
unknown country

DURING the sixteenth century Europe was in a

state of perpetual strife.
Out of a chaos of religious conflicts, social strife,

and prolonged war, emerged the Renaissance. Its

advent was heralded alike by the outspoken, un-
compromising utterances of Luther, and the polished,
cynical essays of Erasmus. It was necessary to every
country, every profession, every trade. To the masses
life in Europe had become intolerable. Religion, which
then played the most important part in men's lives, had
passed imperceptibly from the sublime to the ridiculous,
and thence to the grotesque. Vice in every form had
reached culminating point in the excesses of the
its

Borgias. Taste in art and literature was degenerate

and depraved to a degree. War had satiated the
highest in the land with conquest and plunder, and
sickened the lowest with misery and destitution.
Thus it came about that men, bolder than their
17 B
 LIFE IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY
fellows, disgusted with life in Europe, went forth to find
new homes across the Atlantic, limitless to them and
uncharted, heset with unknown perils.

It is to the intolerable state of life in Europe before

the Renaissance that we owe the discovery of the New
World. AVith the progress which accompanied the
Reformation, trade helped to carry forward the work of
populating new countries and the fashioning of the map
of our world of to-day.
Of all and Portugal perhaps derived
countries, Spain
the greatest advantage from the Renaissance. It is
to them, therefore, that we chiefly owe the discovery
of countries across the seas. Spanish names are to
be found on many a promontory and inlet of the
New World — everlasting monuments to her dauntless
seamen. In the Americas these pioneers were soon
followed by British adventurers and merchants. The
names of Grenville and Hawkins, Raleigh and Drake,
and of many others whose gallant deeds have made
history, rise before us as we turn over the pages of the
past. Where they cut their way through tangled
jungle, or waded, staggering in the slime of some pesti-
lential marsh, or fought desperately with their backs to
their beached ships against tribes to whom mercy was
unknown, now stand teeming cities, with their busy
streets and crowded markets, or prosperous farmsteads
in the midst of their shady pastures and fields of corn.
Their work has been contirmed and completed by suc-
cessive generations, toiling with axe and plough as the
pioneers of future Empire.
And yet there remains one country, the greater
part of whichis as unchanged to-day as when the first

Portuguese seaman sighted it wellnigh four centuries

18
 Dr. Marshall and Pygmiks
Dr. Marshall and the first two pygmies who visited our ca.iip. The stiing bags contain all their
worldly possessions. Dr. Marshall is 5 ft. 9 in. in height, so by compar'son the small stature of the
pygmies will be understood.
 A PORTUGUESE EXPLORER
ago. We canimagine the crew, weary with their
year-long voyage, weak probably from scurvy, straining
their eyes landward as the ship, foul and encrusted,
slowly approached the shore, and with what excite-
ment and wonder they surveyed the tangled stretches
of jungle, mist-veiled, slashed here and there with the
gleam of water, backed by mountains unknown and
mysterious, and seamed with dark and gloomy gorges.
For such is New Guinea to-day.
It was Jorge de INIeneses, sent from IVIalacca to com-
mand the Portuguese at the Spice Islands, who (it is

believed) in 1527 was the first to land in New Guinea.

In this remote corner of the world existed the most
deadly rivalry between Spain and Portugal. Early in
the sixteenth century a Papal Bull divided the entire
East Indies between the two countries. The dividing-
line was a meridian drawn in the Atlantic, then arrived
at by the roughest of dead reckoning, which unfortu-
nately ran close to the valuable INIoluccas, the Spice
Islands, and constant strife therefore arose as to
, its

exact position. The Spaniards reached the Spice

Islands by way of the Pacific ; the Portuguese from
India and Malacca. The immediate result of this
rivalry was the discovery of New Guinea, lying directly
in the route to the Moluccas. Meneses attempted a
new route around the North of Borneo, and, landing at
New Guinea, remained there several months without
realising at all the importance or size of the island.
The natives of the Moluccas called the inhabitants
Papuans, on account of their woolly hair, and Meneses
therefore called the island Papua. AVhen the monsoon
changed, he gladly sailed away to join his comrades at
Tanati.
19
 DISCOVERY OF NEW GUINEA
The next to touch on the shores of New Guinea was
the Spaniard, Alvaro de Saavedra, wlio sailed across the
Pacific from South America, where Pizarro was fighting
desperately to carry out his conquest of Peru.
In 1529 Charles V sold the Spanish claims on the
Spice Islands to the Crown of Portugal. Eight years
later, in1537, Grijalva and Alverado were despatched
from Mexico by Hernan Cortes. They were wrecked
on the north coast, where Grijalva was murdered by his
mutinous crew, who were themselves taken prisoners by
the natives. The castaways were finally released by
the Portuguese and taken to the Moluccas.
In 1545 the island received the name by which we
know it to-day. Ortis de Retes, thinking himself the
discoverer, named it New Guinea, on account of the
resemblance the inhabitants bore to those of the West
Coast of Africa. Only the British section of the island
now retains the more ancient designation of Papua.
So far only the northern coast had been visited, but
in 1606 Louis Vaiz de Torres landed in Milne Bay
on the southern shore. He made extensive observa-
tions, mapped a certain portion of the coast, and
discovered the straits between New Guinea and Aus-
tralia which now bear his name. All records, however,
of his discovery were lost till 1762, when they were
found by Dalrymple in the archives of Manilla, though
his map was not brought to light till 1878. Any
attempt, however, to colonise New Guinea, such as
was taking place in the Americas, invariably met with
disaster.
Early in the seventeenth century Holland, usurping
the place of the declining Portuguese Empire, appeared
upon the scene. Captain Willem Jansz of the yacht
20
 DUTCH ENTERPRISE
Dyske was the first Dutchman to land. The in-

habitants, however, proved and attacked and

hostile,
killed eleven of his thirty sailors. Another attempt
under Schouten and Le Maine in 1616 hkewise failed,
many of the crew being killed and wounded. Janz
Carstensz, travelling eastwards, passed the island in

1623. He was the first on record the existence

to place
of a mountain range possessing snowfields and glaciers.
To perpetuate this discovery, his name has been given
to the highest visible snow-peak, and it is to this dis-
trict that the travels recounted in this book mainly
refer. In 1642 came the famous navigator Abel Janez
Tasman. more was heard of the island till the
Little
year 1700, when William Dampier, despatched by
George III, sailed round the eastern end and dis-
covered the channel separating the island of New
Britain from that ofNew Guinea.
In 1714 the island was nominally ceded to the
Dutch by the Sultan of Tidore, this being recognised
in London in 1824.
For fifty years no traveller approached the coast,
and it was not until the arrival of the Englishman,
Captain Carteret, in 1767, that any further discoveries
of importance were made in this part of the world.
The following year Bougainville touched these shores.
In 1770 Captain Cook visited the island, in 1771 Son-
neret, and the East India Company in 1775. In 1784
England obtained the right of free trade. In 1701
arrived MacCluer and Edwards, 1792 Captains Bligh
and Portlock, 1703 D'Entrecasteau, and in the same
year INIate Dell took possession of some islands in
Torres Straits for England, and Captain Hayes of the
East India Company, in addition to other discoveries,
21
 FAMOUS TRAVELLERS
established a station on the but the
north coast ;

natives, as usual resenting any attempt to occupy the

country, forced him to retire a few years later.
PVom this period it would be tedious and almost
impossible to give a complete list of all the famous
travellers who have contributed something to the
world's knowledge of the coast of New Guinea and
neighbouring islands.may, however, be interesting
It
to mention a few of themost renowned.
I^ieutenant MacCluer surveyed large portions of
the western coast in 1790, and was finally lost at sea
in 1795. In 1826 Kolff arrived; in 1827 Admiral
D'Urville completed a valuable survey of the north
coast. Lieutenant Yule landed in 1846 and took pos-
session of a portion of the south-east coast in the name
of Great Britain. The was discovered in
largest river
1845 by the gunboat Fly, from which it takes its name.
In 1858 came Wallace, and thirteen years later Teys-
mann. Admiral Moresby landed in 1875, followed by
D'Albertis, Macgregor, Maclay and others, amongst
whom must not be forgotten that famous missionary
tlie Rev. James Chalmers, who was afterwards so
treacherously murdered on the coast. The resentment
of the natives to any attempt at occupation, and their
implacable hostility, resulted in many brutal murders
and many complete disasters. In 1890 a British steam
yacht was wrecked to the west of the Mimika River,
and the entire crew killed and eaten. The disaster to
the Pell occurred in 1900, a similar fate befalling the
and crew near the present position of the Dutch
officers
settlement of Merauke.
On the submission of the Sultan of Tidore to the
Dutch in 1714, the latter, as suzerain power, acquired
22
 EUROPEAN ANNEXATION
all possessions of theformer ruler and claimed the
territory from the most westerly point eastwards to
the 141st meridian. This boundary, with slight modi-
fications, was accepted by the Powers in 1893, but it
was not until 1899 that Holland took over direct con-
trol of her section.
By Imperial Letters Patent issued to the German
New Guinea Company, Germany laid claim to and
annexed the north-eastern portion of the island in 1884.
The south-western section was formally taken over
by Mr. Chester by order of the Premier of Queensland
in 1883. This act was not confirmed by the Home
Government, but the territory was nevertheless annexed
to the British Crown in the following year, and the
boundary between German and British territory fixed
in 1885. To Germany went the newly named Bismarck
Archipelago.
Sufficient has been said to explain New Guinea's
meagre history and how its land has been parcelled out
between the three European nations. Of the British ,

section of Papua much is known ; it is partially civilised,

and a considerable portion surveyed. Neither the Ger-
man nor the Dutch sections are nearly so far advanced,
but Holland of late years has displayed great zeal in
the exploration of her half of the island, which, in
addition to being twice as extensive, offers more serious
obstacles to successful exploration than either of the
other two.
During the last two or three years eight expeditions
have penetrated into the Dutch section of the island from
all sides, of which the most important arc the JMam- :

berano River Expedition under Kapt. A. Herderschee,

October 1909 to May 1910 ; Humboldt's Bay Boundary
23
 THE DUTCH SECTION
Commission under F. J. P. Sachse, November 1909 the ;

Fak-Fak Expedition under Kapt. Kock the Utakwa ;

Expedition under Kapt. J. Van der Bie and Lieutenant

Postema, March to December 1910; the Island River
Expedition under Herr A. SchaefFer and Kapt. Van
der Ven the Digul River Expedition, and the three
;

Expeditions under the well-known Dr. Lorentsz, in the

last of which he reached his goal and penetrated to the
Wilhelmina peaks. He was thus the first European to
tread the snows of New Guinea.
New Guinea as a whole still offers greater oppor-
tunities for the explorer, collector and anthropologist,
than any other portion of the globe.
During the latter half of the last century so many
vast areas of the world's surface yielded up their secrets
before the advance of civilisation that comparatively
little pioneer exploration now remains to be accom-
plished. New Guinea still resists the invader, and
though its hidden secrets are one by one being brought
to light, yet many years must elapse before sufficient
knowledge of the country can be accumulated even to
construct a sketch map of its entire surface, to say
nothing of a complete scientific examination of its
mammals, birds, reptiles, insects and plants, or a study
of the many savage tribes which inhabit the highlands
and the plains. The chief reasons for its still being an
almost teiTa incognita are to be found in its remote
situation from the ancient civilised w^orld ; its impene-
trable forests ;rugged ranges and endless swamps
its

its rains and fevers, and lastly its hostile and treacherous

inhabitants, all of which obstacles have frequently

proved insurmountable to the trader and traveller.
It can be easily understood, tlierefore, why this
24
 AN UNKNOWN COUNTRY
country was selected as a virgin land in which to work
when the British Ornithologists' Union desired to com-
memorate their jubilee by sending an expedition into a
country hitherto unexplored. The object of the British
Expedition, the adventures of which I shall relate, was
to explore that unknown country to the east of Fak-
Fak, and to the west of Dr. Lorentsz's Nord River in
the vicinity of the snowfields and glaciers of Carstensz
Peak. Little or nothing was known of this great tract
of country except what had been learnt by a flying
visit paid to the Mimika and Utakwa Rivers a few
years before. It had remained a land of mystery,
impenetrable as when Carstensz had first seen it three
hundred years before.

25
 CHAPTER II

—
Organising an expedition Learning by experience— Forming the party
— —
The survey staff Transport arrangements The food problem Ill- —
— — —
chosen supplies En route Dutch courtesy Enlarging the stafT
— — — —
The line of advance Java Due east A curious prison regime Dobo
— The island of New Guinea — The Mimika district — The coast-line
TO the uninitiated the work involved
might appear to commence on the day
dition
in an expe-

arranged for the start, but this is by no means the

case. The organisation of an expedition requires the
abiUty of a thorough business man, combined with
an intimate knowledge of the special requirements
demanded by the nature of the country to be tra-
versed. The physical peculiarities of the country to
be entered, its climate, inhabitants, local supplies and
means of transport, as learnt by personal experience or
from information gathered from the reports of former
travellers, are of the first consideration. Such know-
ledge can be gained only by months of careful study
and thorough inquiry, and is of the utmost import-
ance, for it must not be forgotten that one weak link
may endanger the whole enterprise, and that for
each country in the world different arrangements are
necessary.
The equipment down to the minutest detail, the
quality and quantity of the transport, the favourable
seasons of the year, the available funds, one's com-
panions, together with a host of other points, all re-
quire the most careful consideration and thought.
26
 ORGANISING AN EXPEDITION
Perseverance and determination will surmount most
obstacles, but can never make up for bad organisation.
Even with the exercise of the greatest forethought
and most careful preparation the plan of action and
the arrangements made must be of a sufficiently
elastic character to allow of alteration if unforeseen
and insuperable difficulties should occur, so as to
avoid the dislocation of the whole organisation.
A pioneer expedition into an unknown land must
necessarily undergo greater hardships and encounter
more unexpected difficulties than one which can profit
by the lessons of another, and though the INIimika
district was a terra incognita until the landing of our
party, one is compelled to acknowledge that much
might have been gained by a more careful study and
proper appreciation of the trials and difficulties ex-
perienced by travellers in other parts of the country.
Whether the scientific results would have been of
greater value is another question, but it cannot be
denied that much life, time, and money would have
been saved. Here, however, there were compensa-
tions, for, had the correct river been selected as the
line of advance, it may be assumed that we should
have reached the snows of the central range but, on ;

the other hand, we should not have made the valu-

able discovery of the existence of the pygmies. That
careful organiser, Dr. Lorentsz, required three well-
equipped expeditions, two on the same river, carried
out in successive years, to reach JNIount Juliana, and
so it may be hoped that our next attempt, profiting
by the lessons taught us in the present instance, may
solve some of the problems that we left untouched.
A committee, composed of members of the Orni-
27
 FORINIING THE PARTY
tholofrists' Union, was formed, in whose hands the
entire arrangements were placed, and whose first
act was to JNIr. Walter
select as leader to the party
Goodfellow, a well-known and experienced collector.
Shortly afterwards followed the appointments of Mr.
W, Stalker and Mr. G. C. Sliortridgc, who were to
be responsible for the birds, mammals, and reptiles
captured. The former had had many years' experi-
ence in the East, particularly in Northern Australia
and l*apua. The latter was known throughout South
Africa, Australia, and the East Indian Islands, from
whence he had brought many valuable collections
to the British and other museums. Mr. A. F. R.
Wollaston, medical officer, entomologist, and botanist
to the late Ruwanzori Expedition, and author of
that excellent book of travel, From Ruivanzori to the
Congo, was appointed to the same posts on this pre-
sent expedition. Thus composed, the personnel and
the plans would have satisfied the originators of the
scheme, but as is so often the case with expeditions
sent into unknown lands, subscriptions did not come
in as freely as was anticipated, and conversely the
scope of the work was extended. The interest of the
Royal Geographical Society of London was invoked
in that part of the work connected with exploration
and survey, and with their usual generosity where geo-
graphical problems remain to be solved, they at once
fell in with the proposal and liberally contributed to the

funds. While in Tibet I had had some experience in

the construction of maps, so I applied for the post
of surveyor, and to my intense satisfaction obtained the
appointment. My enthusiasm was slightly damped,
however, when I learnt that there was to be no survey
28
 THE SURVEY STAFF
staff, and that I had to do the work alone. When
I remembered the heavy casualty lists of former ex-
peditions in other parts of the country we were about
to enter, and realised thatif I were to fall ill the

survey work would come to an abrupt end, any uneasi-

ness on my part as to the resultmust be excused.
The were three in number, or four, if we
collectors
include Mr. AVoUaston, who was likewise capable of
assisting in that work, while I, as surveyor, stood alone.
After some delay the sanction of the committee was
therefore obtained for an additional surveyor to be
appointed, and here I was fortunate enough to obtain
the services of one eminently suited to the work.
Dr. E. JNIarshall, one of the three who had accom-
panied Sir E. Shackleton on his final advance to the
South Pole, had but lately returned to England. On
the Antarctic Expedition he had held the posts of
medical officer and cartographer, and when the objects
of the present expedition were explained to him he
expressed his willingness to join as assistant surveyor
and surgeon. The European stall' was now complete.
Through the kindness of Sir Edward Grey and the
British Minister at the Hague permission had been
obtained from the Dutch Government for the expedi-
tion to land on the south coast of Dutch New Guinea
on any date after January 1, 1910, together with a
courteous offer of assistance from the authorities of the
Netherlands India. The Dutch section of New Guinea
had been chosen on account of the vast extent of the
unknown areas, and the western half in particular,
because of the proximity of the great central range of
mountains to the coast, a district which was thought
likely to contain unknown varieties of birds and
29
 TRANSPORT ARRANGEMENTS
mammals. To reduce the area still further the Mimika
district was selected for the disembarkation, as the Snow
Peaks of Carstensz were reported to lie within a reason-
able distance i.e. about seventy to eighty miles to
the north.
While the preliminary arrangements were being
made in London, Shortridge was working in Borneo,
from whence it was arranged that he should join the
main party as it passed through Java and that Stalker,
;

who was likewise in the East, should set out at once

and enlist one hundred carriers from the various islands
scattered throughout the Archipelago. To avoid delay
ten ex-military police Gurkhas from India were engaged
for the twofold object of guarding the camps and, on
account of their knowledge of jungle life and fondness
for shooting, of collecting natural history specimens.
These Gurkhas were enrolled at Darjeeling and sent to
Singapore to await our arrival, but as it afterwards
turned out they were not much used for the former
purpose, as an escort of Javanese troops was supplied
by the Dutch. The equipment and tinned food were
brought from England, and the supplies for the coolies
from Java and Amboina.
A suitable and plentiful supply of food for the whole
force is naturally of the first importance. Owing to
the dearth of local supplies in New Guinea, it was
found necessary to import all provisions needed for the
expedition. is true that sago palms grow in the
It
swamps, but Malays are not sago eaters, and, in
addition, we wished to leave the low-lying ground
as soon as possible and take to the mountains, where
sago trees do not exist.
Throughout our stay in the country the numbers of
30
 THE FOOD PROBLEM
men employed by the Dutch and British varied between
one hundred and twenty and two hundred, whose
rations were one and a quarter pounds of rice and a
quarter of a pound of dried meat and fish, together
with tea and salt. Thus it will be understood that
owing to the uncertainty as to when fresh stores might
be brought by the visiting ships, and the lack of local
supplies, it was necessary to import and stock an im-
mense quantity of provisions. The preservation of
these, on account of the excessive humidity of the
climate, caused much anxiety, particularly as the con-
signments of rice for the first half-year arrived in sacks,
and were consequently spoilt by the first shower of rain.
A noticeable improvement took place when the Dutch
plan of packing the rice in sealed kerosene tins was
adopted, but the work of closing the tins had to be
performed with care, as the slightest defect in soldering
let in the moisture with equally fatal results. From the

same cause immense quantities of dried meat and fish

were at times ruined, as old wooden kerosene cases were
used to pack the food in, and being thus exposed to
heat and rain, a few days were sufficient to turn the
whole into a putrid mass. Coolies were continually
employed in drying it, but with indifferent success.
The provisions selected for our own consumption
were of so remarkable a description that 1 am almost
tempted to reprint the list, but as this might produce
unseemly merriment amongst those who were not
forced to consume them, and also to show that I am
not alone in my opinion as to their unsuitability, I will
quote from Dr. Wollaston's report : Some of our
"

own stores were, to say the least, ill-chosen. It ap-

peared that a large quantity of stores liad been brought
31
 ILL-CHOSEN SUPPLIES
from the Shackleton Expedition, which had returned
from the Antarctic a few months before we left
Enghmd. However suitable those provisions may
have been Polar expedition, they were not the
for a
sort of thing one would have chosen for a journey in
the tropics. For instance, large tins of bully-beef are
'

excellent in a cold climate, but when you open them

near the Equator you find that they consist of pallid
lumps of pink flesh swimming in a nasty gravy. Pea-
soup and pea-flour, of which we had nearly four hundred
pounds' weight, strike terror into the stoutest heart when
the temperature is 86 degrees in the shade. Pickles
are all very well in their way them,
for those that like
but one hundred and sixty bottles was more than a
generous allowance. .The packing was almost as
. .

remarkable as the choice of the stores themselves

they were secured in strong packing-cases of large
and variable size, fastened with bands of iron and
an incredible number of nails, suitable enough to
withstand the banging Polar storms, but not well
adapted to their present purpose. The boxes were all
too big for convenient transport, and as each one was
filled with food of one kind only every box had to be

opened at once and a selection made from them."

Let me add that besides " bully-beef" the principal
articles of food were tinned salmon and fresh herrings.
It will be understood that ringing the changes on the
above for eight months not only palled on the appetite,
but was likely so to lower the constitution as to render
it unfit to withstand the hardships necessitated by a

prolonged sojourn in jungle and swamp. Such neces-

saries as sugar, candles, &c. were omitted amidst the
luxuries mentioned above. At the end of eight months,
32
 EN KOUTE
as a consequence of our representations as to the un-
suitability of the supphes, an excellent store was sent
out from England, well chosen and properly packed.
As the story of our travels proceeds, my readers
will be able to form their own opinion as to the per-
fection, or otherwise, of the transport arrangements.
We left England on 27th October 1909, and
reached Singapore three weeks later. Here we found
the Gurkhas living in the Native Infantry Lines, feel-
ing quite at home, but much ruffled in temper by
being repeatedly taken for Japanese by the native
population of this cosmopolitan port, who, to the
Gurkhas' surprise, said that they had never heard of
the existence of this hardy mountain race. On the
21st November we sailed in the Dutch packet for
Batavia, the capital of Java, and reached there two
days later. On the way we passed the scene of the
disaster of the ill-fated French mail, La Seyne, which
had been sunk a few days before in a collision with the
British ship Onda. Her masts were just visible above
the water, with lights burning to mark the spot where
many bodies still lay entombed, and where, it is said,
scores of the passengers and crew were devoured by
sharks as they attempted to swim to the shore.
At Batavia the members of the expedition received
every possible assistance from the Governor-General,
and from General von Daalen, the Commander-in-
Chief; the former of whom, to our great regret,
succumbed shortly afterwards to an attack of cholera.
It was here arranged that an escort of forty Javanese
troops, under the command of Lieutenant H. A.
Cramer, an infantry officer selected from the Head-
quarters Staff for this purpose, together with a staff of
33 C
 ENLARGING THE STAFF
European non-commissioned officers should be attached
to the expedition, asit was considered that the natives

of New Guinea might oppose the landing on the coast,

and in any case, the camps would need to be guarded
whether the inhabitants appeared friendly or not. To
assist the soldiers of the escort when in camp, and to
act as their carriers should the expedition penetrate
any distance into the mountains, sixty convicts were
supplied, drawn mainly from Java, but with a sprink-
ling of representatives of every island in the Archi-
pelago, supposed to have been picked for their ability
to withstand the hardships of the climate. Many
of these men were convicted murderers, and all
had been sentenced to long periods of imprisonment.
Some were even brought in chains to the ship, where
their shackles were struck off, for it was well known
that from the shores of New Guinea there was no
possible chance of escape. They were supposed to
have volunteered for the expedition, with the know-
ledge that as a reward for good work, the length of
their sentences might be reduced. This practice of
employing convict labour on New Guinea and other
expeditions is commonly followed throughout the
Dutch East India possessions, but whether the advan-
tage of obtaining as good a ration as that served out
to the soldier and a chance of a remission of their
sentence outbalances the prospect of certain sickness,
and very probable death to follow, is an open question.
Less masculine-looking men than the Javanese it
would be impossible to find. Their large rounded hips
and soft flabby bodies to the casual observer give
them the appearance of women.
To assist the expedition by every means in their
34
 THE LINE OF ADVANCE
power the Dutch Government promised to transport
the whole of our force and stores to whatever landing-
place might be selected as the point of disembarkation
and, as far as practicable, to keep up a two to three
monthly service between Amboina and New Guinea.
It had been the intention of Mr. Goodfellow before
leaving England to make use of the Utakwa River as
the line of advance towards the mountains, but from
information obtained in Batavia this was changed to
the Mimika River. These were the only two rivers in
this portion of New Guinea the mouths of which had
been previously visited, and from the information avail-
able there seemed little to choose between them. As
a matter of fact, as was afterwards proved, the Mimika
is but a small jungle-fed stream rising in the low foot-

hills fifty miles to the west of Carstensz peak while ;

the Utakwa is navigable for an ocean-going steamer

for a distance of seventeen miles from its mouth, and
runs directly from the snow mountain itself. We had
the choice of either, and chose the wrong one, and this,
little as we expected it at the time, precluded all possi-
bility of our ever reaching the snowfields and glaciers
of the central range.
There followed an unavoidable delay of three
weeks, during which time the soldiers and convicts
were collected, and the ship prepared to take the heavy
load of stores and building material, a cargo which not
only filled her hold, but was piled high upon her decks.
AVhile this work was in progress, INIarshall and I

made a tour through Java, but of this I need say little,

as a report on this rich and prosperous island, an

example of the colonising abilities of the Dutch, is

outside the province of this book. With its teeming

35
 DUE EAST
and peaceful population, its rich soil and intensive
cultivation, it stands as a model of what the greater

islands of Borneo and Sumatra will doubtless develop

into in years to come. Compared with many other
parts of the world the scenery is, to my mind, tame,
though undeniably beautiful. Its places of interest are
few and far between and, with the exception of the
ruins of the ancient Buddhist temple of Boro-Boder,
brought to light by Sir Stamford Raffles over a
hundred years ago, and the active volcanoes, have little
to attract the ordinary tourist. With the exception of
the one temple mentioned above, there is nothing to

approach in grandeur the glorious palaces and forts

of British India, or the ruins of the temples and the
homes of past dynasties scattered throughout that land.
What struck me most during the journey was the
scrupulous cleanliness of the native villages, the result,
I understand, of a Government order. Would that
the Indian Government could do likewise
The transport Nias, 850 tons, laden to her Plimsoll
line, and crowded with soldiers, convicts and stores,
left Soerabaia, the western port of Java, on Christ-
mas Day, 1909, her decks piled high with bamboo
poles, matting and building material. Her course
lay almost due east, past the lovely islands of Bali
and Lombok, clothed with their rice fields and dense
forest vegetation, the summits of the mountains
hidden in a mass of fleecy clouds, to JNIacassar in
Celebes, and thence through a still, sapphire sea to
Amboina.
Stalker had preceded us to this place for the pur-
pose of collecting a hundred coolies to act as carriers
for the expedition. For want of room it was impos-
36
 A CURIOUS PRISON REGIME
sible to accommodate these men on board, and they
were therefore shipped to Dobo by passenger steamer,
to await a second trip to be made by the Nias.
Dobo, the chief settlement in the Aru Islands, was
reached on January the 3rd. Dobo is a most unin-
teresting place, built on a spit of sand at the entrance
of one of the numerous channels which split the islands
into small fragments. The houses are built of corru-
gated iron, and are inhabited by a cosmopolitan collec-
tion of Chinese, Japanese, Indians and JNIalays, all
dependent directly or indirectly on the pearl fishing
industry. The only peculiarity the town can boast of
is that the doors of the jail thrown
are permanently
open, and the prisoners can wander where they like,
enter and depart at will, only being compelled to spend
the night within the walls. It is reported, with what
truth I cannot say, that a few years ago there was
trouble in the prison, which was only quelled by the
Governor announcing his intention to lock the prisoners
out, a threat which soon brought the rebellious ones
to reason.
As the islands are of coral, the question of fresh
water is every drop of rain being collected
a serious one ;

and stored with great care. The huge hulk of an old

iron ship belonging to the Celebes Trading Company,
moored harbour and used as a store-ship for the
in the
pearl fishing fleet, is roofed with corrugated iron, and
forms the most lasting watertank in the district.
The town has no and requires none, for the
hotel,
hospitality extended to strangersby the British repre-
sentatives of the Celebes Trading Company is prover-
bial in this part of the world.
By five o'clock the same afternoon we had embarked
37
 THE ISLAND OF NEW GUINEA
upon the last and shortest stage of the journey, with
the knowledge that when the sun next rose scarcely
ten miles would separate us from the land upon which
our minds had so long been set.
A sketch of the general aspect of the island of New
Guinea, the land we were about to enter, will not here
be out of place. To parody a guide-book "It is the :

largest island in the world, being some one thousand one

hundred miles in length, by four hundred miles in
breadth, and having an area of three hundred and seven
thousand square miles, or about the size of Great
Britain and France combined. Throughout its entire
length from east to west stretches a vast mountain
range, of which the highest point is believed to be
Mount Carstensz. To the north and south of this
chain, which is known in the various districts under
different names, stretch vast swampy plains covered
with the densest forest, intersected by endless rivers,
and inhabited by savage tribes.
*'
Owing to its proximity to the Equator, and on
account of the central range which impedes every
wind that blows, the climate is both hot and damp,
and for these reasons is extremely unhealthy. Were
it not for its great physical and climatic obstacles,

and for the hostilityshown by its inhabitants to the

stranger. New Guinea would long ago have been
explored and its secrets revealed, instead of being, as
it is at present, the least known and most savage land
on the surface of the globe."
To the Mimika district, the particular section we
are most interested in, the same remarks hold good,
with the difference that the mountains here rise to a
greater altitude than elsewhere, and the plains are
38
 THE COAST LINE
less extensive. Dense forest covers every foot of
ground there are no lakes or open stretches of water,
;

nor, it may be added, forest paths. The only lines of

communication are the rivers and the open sea, with
dug-outs as the means of transport.
The natives congregate along the banks of the
rivers and the coast, the forest itself being practically
uninhabited. The coast line, to the casual observer, is

hard and straight, with numberless small bays and

creeks, but these are so hidden from passing ships, that
they form no guide as to whether they are the mouths
of great rivers or of muddy inlets. The bays, however,
are often of great size, and would be invaluable as
harbours were it possible to make use of them but ;

evershifting and treacherous bars close their mouths,

thus rendering the great majority useless to sea-going
craft.

39
 CHAPTER III

First impressions —A doubtful reception — First overtures — Boarded by

savages — Exemplary behaviour— Into the unknown — The Mimika
river — An enthusiastic welcome — Wakatimi —A village community
Selecting a site — Unmannerly curiosity

was morning. The N'ias was creeping on an easy-

IT swell through a cold, grey sea towards land. Five
miles away a narrow strip of sand stretched east and
west as far as the eye could see, broken here and there
by groups of casuarina trees marking the mouths of
hidden creeks and rivers. Between these estuaries
mangrove swamps, and beyond, a level, unbroken plain
of tangled forest, a belt forty miles in width and
hundreds of miles in length, impenetrable, impassable
save by river craft.
Over hung a dense canopy of mist.
all

The sun rose, and with it came into view range

upon range of knife- edged ridges behind these a
;

mighty rampart of rock, black, and apparently impreg-

nable, showed hard and clear against the sky. Owing
to the early morning haze and the great distance, but
little of the great cliff could be distinguished beyond its

bold outline. The regular and unbroken crest fell

steadily away towards the west until it vanished into

the valley dividing the so-called Snowy Range from
the Charles Louis JNlountains, and in the east reached
its highest point in Mount Carstensz.

Carstensz, with its many peaks of nearly equal alti-

40
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS
tude, grew in splendour as the icy pinnacles, snowfields,
and glaciers caught the rays of the rising sun. It was
a magnificent spectacle, this 14,000 feet of rock capped
by 2000 feet of snow. Glaciers rolled down the slopes,
broken by occasional chimneys of black rock, which,
far from lessening the effect, ordy heljjed to bring
into more vivid contrast the virginal whiteness of the
snow.
In conjunction with, and immediately to the west
of this great mass, lay a gently undulating snow field,
and beyond that again another group of snow-clad
peaks, now named after the Governor-General of the
Netherlands India.
Gaze as we might, in vain could we discover any-
thing of the lie of the rivers or of the general trend of
the ridges, nor was there anything to indicate which
was the one most likely to be followed by the expedi-
tion in its progress inland.
Other events, however, now took place, of sufficient
time being, any speculation as
interest to stop, for the
to the future.
A thin column of smoke was from the nearest
rising
promontory, an outpost of the Charles Louis Range,
and this, evidently a signal of the approach of danger,
was repeated with astonishing rapidity every few miles
along the coast. At the same time a number of canoes,
laden with savages, shot out from the inlets, paddling
hard to cut us off, but owing to the JVias now shaping
an easterly course along the coast, the majority were
soon out of the running, but others, having more
warning, were able to place themselves directly in the
track and, waiting till we had passed, followed exci-
tedly in rear, whilst a few, avoiding a close approach,
41
 A DOUBTFUL RECEPTION
remained satisfied with a distant inspection. There is
no sight more beautiful or more animated all the world
over than a fleet of these dug-outs, each manned by a
dozen or more Papuans, who, standing and working in
perfect unison, drive their frail craft through the trough
of a choppy sea with mighty strokes of their paddles.
The physique of these men, with their shining black
fine
skins, their only conspicuous ornament a few white
feathers in their hair, is shown to the best advantage
when wielding their paddles, and the whole scene forms
a perfect example of beauty and force combined.
Numbers of canoes at varying intervals were still fol-
lowing the ship, when at 3 p.m. Commander van Her-
werden came to the conclusion that the Mimika River
had been overshot. This was not to be wondered at,
as with every mouth and creek exactly like the last,
the chances of locating the entrance were decidedly
remote. The relief-ships later on did not experience
similar difficulties, for a peculiar formation of trees at
the mouth of the river was sufficient indication of the
position required. by no means followed, however,
It
that when once they had arrived the stores would be
landed or the sick removed from the shore, for on more
than one occasion the heavy surf forbade a landing, and
the ship was compelled to weigh anchor and depart, to
the grievous disappointment of all on shore.
No canoes venturing near or paying any attention
to our hails, the launch was lowered, and made for a
spot where numbers of excited and gesticulating
savages could be seen collected on the sands. Those in
the canoes were evidently beginning to realise that our
intentions were peaceable, for before we had gone far
they began to close in, and it was to them we turned
42
 FIRST OVERTURES
for the required information. One canoe in particular
was signalledout, not so much on account of its greater
size,but because of some bright bunting seen waving
from the stern. To our intense surprise, a nearer
approach showed this to be a pilot's Union Jack which,
before we got was taken down and
to close quarters,
stowed away, probably from fear that it might be
seized. Try as we would, we were never able to per-
suade these people to bring it forth for our inspection ;

when asked for it, they simply expressed complete

ignorance of what we desired, a simple and effective
subterfuge owing to our limited knowledge of the
language. Possibly it might have told a tale they
thought it better that we should not know. We chose,
however, to look upon the augury as a good one, and,
steaming alongside, beckoned to the most important-
looking individual in the canoe to come into the launch,
a feat he was nothing loath to perform. Without
uttering a word, he proceeded to shake hands all round,
including in his attentions the engine-driver and
stokers, giving the ordinary hand-grip to commence
with, but immediately snatching his fingers away. The
Papuans of this district, as we afterwards found, occa-
sionally greet one another in this fashion, but more
often with both hands, and if this does not show suffi-

cient warmth they add a kiss.

The word Mimika was sufficient for our newfound
guide to point to a promontory some two or three miles
to the west. Heaccompanied us on board the A^ias,
and comported himself with perfect decorum, as,
indeed, was only to be expected, for he turned out to
be the chief of the village of Nime, and the most import-
ant individual in the district. There was, however,
43
 BOARDED BY SAVAGES
nothing in his style of dress to distinguish him from
his followers.
Seeing their chief step on board with every sign of
confidence, the rest were encouraged to follow his
example, and within a minute the gangway was
blocked with a seething mass of savages. No signs of
fear were displayed, no shyness, and no undue curiosity
— the one idea was to set foot on board and it was
;

evident they had been treated with such consideration

when visited by the Dutch ship three years previously
that the arrival of the white man gave rise to no feelings
of fear or suspicion.
On they came, boatload after boatload, till a
hundred naked savages were grouped in a compact
mass on the deck. For the moment they had obtained
their heart's desire and were satisfied, but soon the
bolder spirits began to trickle away down below, to
emerge shortly afterwards dressed in the cast-off cloth-
ing of the Malay firemen, horrible and ludicrous
examples of how the human form can be disfigured.
Broad grins suffused their faces, not unmixed with
pride, when their now naked-looking companions gazed
with jealous eyes upon these acquisitions. The anchor
was soon raised, and within an hour a fresh berth had
been taken up in three and a half fathoms of water, and
two miles from the mouth of the JNIimika River,
At dusk the captain gave orders for the ship to be
cleared, but in this he had reckoned without his guests.
Determined to spend the night on board, the canoes
had been sent away as soon as the owners had set foot
on deck, thus removing the only possible means of com-
munication with the shore. Three newly arrived canoes
were, however, commandeered, and into them as many
44
 EXEMPLARY BEHAVIOUR
Papuans as possible were driven, and as it was out of
the question to force tlie remainder to reach dry land
by swimming, particularly as the sea was full of sharks,
we had perforce to allow many to remain on board. It
mattered little, as they were behaving themselves in the
most exemplary manner. A more phlegmatic crew I
have never seen squatting in silent rows, they absorbed
;

everything presented from food to the veriest trifles,

and neither the electric light nor the throbs of the
engine seemed to cause the least surprise or fear.
Unaccustomed to late nights they dropped off to
sleep as soon as darkness came on, tucking themselves
into one another in long rows, their faces in the same
directionand their heads resting upon the brass-bound
steps or any other convenient projection. AVith day-
light came dozens of fresh craft, and in these our too-
clinging friends took their departure.
Before deciding on our future course of action it

was necessary, first of all, to examine the river and its

banks, in order to select some suitable site upon which

to build the base camp, for when once the stores had
been landed there would be no possible chance of
moving to another position. The launch was again
lowered, and within an hour of daybreak Goodfellow,
Cramer, and I, together with ten Javanese soldiers and
the guide of the previous day, were approaching the
bar across the mouth of the INIimika, on which the surf
was beating heavily. All went well. Two fathoms of
water lay over the bar the enclosed mouth of the
;

river opened out into a bay a mile in length and a

thousand yards in width, with sufficient water to float
any boat we were ever likely to use. On either hand
lay the villages of Atabo and Taroke, evidently erected
45
 INTO THE UNKNOWN
merely as temporary shelters for those engaged in sea fish-
ing. Astonished throngs watched us pass in silence, the
bolder men in the foreground, the women and children
peeping from behind the mat doors of the huts. These
showed no fear, though possibly their numbers alone
gave them confidence as we progressed up stream the
;

occupants of odd canoes encountered fled terror-stricken

into the undergrowth at the first sign of the white man,
in two instances leaving their canoes drifting helplessly
on the current of the stream.
Mangrove trees covered the banks, their bare roots
projecting in a tangled mass from a sea of slimy mud,
over which no man could move. This growth gradu-
ally gave place to vegetation requiring a more solid
foundation beneath which scrub jungle appeared, be-
coming more and more dense the further we advanced.
Up beautiful stretches of the gently winding river we
passed, cheered by distant views of the mountains and
the snows of Carstensz, at this early hour clear of cloud.
Dank and gloomy creeks opened out on either hand,
in the smallest of which fishing-nets could be seen so
placed as to entrap the fish on the falling of the tide.
Slimy, evil-smelling mud covered the land, silent evi-
dence of the inundation which took place at every tide ;

everywhere roamed countless numbers of crabs, large

and small, together with a species of climbing fish
which, with swift strokes of its tail and fins, sought
cover amidst the roots, or, if on a branch, flopped
noisily into the water. Overhead passed white cocka-
toos, screaming with fear, their yellow crests distended
with surprise egrets, tree ducks, pigeons, flocks of
;

beautiful but noisy parrots and lories, and innumer-

able other varieties of bird life. On the bank basked a
46
 A Forest impassable for Max
The four-mile belt of mangrove swamp along the coast ; showing the tidal mark.

Wakaii-mi Villaoe
A village situated opposite to the base camp, and noted for perpetual strife and drunken brawls.
 THE MIMIKA RIVER
small alligator, whilst water -snakes, making for the
nearest cover, now and again rippled the glassy surface
of the water. This highway of the island teemed with
animal life startled into activity by the unwonted
apparition of a steam launch.
Three miles from the mouth the river divided the ;

Mimika proper still flowed from the north, while from

the west entered the Watuka, with a volume three

times as great as the former and of a milky colour, a
fairly certain proof that its source was in the distant
mountains. The Mimika was but a tributary, and, to
judge by its dark and oily waters, a jungle-fed stream,
with its origin to be found not amidst the distant
snows or even the highlands of the lower ranges, but
probably in the marshy levels of the low-lying plain.
Still, as the Watuka came from the west and our

course lay evidently to the east, in the direction of the

snow mountains, no apparent object was to be gained
by changing to that more prepossessing looking river.
The Mimika had been selected as the line of advance
whilst we were in Java, and to this decision we had to
adhere, there being no river transport at our disposal
wherewith to prospect for other routes should the one
chosen prove unsatisfactory. The Mimika had by now
shrunk to a width of about a hundred yards, the slimy
banks being covered to the water's edge with a tangled
mass of creepers and cacti, and evidently, even at this
distance from the sea, subject to periodic inundations.
Not a soul was to be seen. The river seemed as
deserted as the grave. This was due either to fear,
or more probably had been arranged by the savages
in order to afford a more striking welcome, for, as our
launch suddenly rounded a bend in the river, a wild
47
 AN ENTHUSIASTIC WELCOME
yell from the banks burst upon our ears, immediately
followed by the appearance of a dozen well-filled
canoes. Without awaiting our closer approach, every
man cast himself backwards into the river, only to
scramble on board again and repeat the performance,
which might have gone on for ever had we not rapidly
steamed through the fleet. Escorted by their canoes
we turned into a straight stretch of water, at the far
end of which the cocoa-nut palms of a village could
be distinguished, the rising smoke showing where the
huts lay. This was AVakatimi, spoken of by the
Dutch, and near which place Goodfellow had hoped to
find a convenient site for the base camp.
The excitement was intense. Men, women, and
children poured down to the banks of the river, adding
their clamour to that of our escort in the canoes. No
welcome could have been more enthusiastic, and few
sights more astonishing. The women cast themselves
into the mud, rolling over and over and plastering
themselves from head to foot, while the men and boys
preferred the cleaner operation of throwing themselves
backwards into the water. The women, now hardly
to be recognised as human beings, but delirious with
joy and excitement, started an inartistic dance, going
down on hands and and wriggling their bodies
feet
from waving in the air
side to side with their sterns ;

their chief desire appeared to be to throw as much

movement into that part of their anatomy as the
position would allow. The moment we set foot on
land the women and children fled for safety to their
huts, diving into them like a lot of rabbits into their
burrows, and there remained, rows of frizzy heads and
gleaming eyes being the only evidence of their existence.
48
 WAKATIMI
AVakatimi itself consisted of one long row of about
a hundred huts placed side by side and touching one
another, so that the whole village somewhat resembled
a single room. In front of the habitations ran the
main street, bordered on the river side by a thick row
of cocoa-nut palms. Small muddy creeks led from the
river to the trees, and in these minute harbours rested
the canoes. Cleanliness was not practised in any form,
the refuse of the huts and the remains of the feasts
being cast into heaps close by over these roamed
;

boys, pigs, and dogs seeking for food or a point of

vantage from whence to survey the scene. Unlike
other districts of New Guinea, where the house is
almost invariably erected upon piles, the huts are here
built upon the ground and are of the rudest possible
description. A more permanent form of building is
not favoured by the natives of these districts, for the
heavy rainfall, playing havoc with any ground cleared
of vegetation, often changes the course of the rivers
and, in addition to this, owing to each district being
rapidly denuded of its available food-supplies, the tribes
are obliged to adopt a more or less nomadic life.
Those living on the coast are less affected by the
question of food, as fresh fish is always available and,
even when sago is scarce, suffer little inconvenience.
Not only in appearance but in reality is the village
one long room, for a new arrival builds his hut on to
the end of the row of buildings already standing and,
when completed, removes the partition. This com-
munal building, for such it may be conveniently
termed, may stretch to any length according to the
amount of ground available and the number of families
to be housed.
49 D
 A VILLAGE COMMUNITY
Each family owns its particular doorway, but be-
yond this there is no privacy or right of possession.
The floor consists of sand brought from the seashore,
upon which, to make the place a little more habitable,
grass mats are laid. Fireplaces are dotted about any-
where, each family possessing at least one which is
used primarily for the purpose of cooking, and at night
as a stove round which the members of the family
curl for the sake of warmth. Smoke fills the interior
of the huts, escaping as best it may, blackening the

walls and human skulls and bones which dangle from

the roof or are suspended from any convenient pro-
jection. Of furniture there is none, except for an
occasional wood pillow, to our minds the most im-
possible of rests, since it is balanced upon two legs
and is so decorated with carving as not to leave one
square inch of smooth surface upon which to rest the
neck. Encumbering the floor space is an indescribable
conglomeration of babies, pi-dogs, sago dishes, full and
empty string bags, bows and arrows, and other objects,
whilst just outside the entrance, ready for instant use,
stand the spears and stone clubs, as freely used in
family quarrels as in repelling a hostile force.
But I am getting on too fast. Our thoughts at this
time were focussed upon the one idea of obtaining a
good site for the base camp, in the choosing of which
two things had to be remembered. First, to select a
spot within easy distance of the sea and yet beyond the
reach of inundation, and next to see that it was close to
a native village, from whence it was hoped local labour
might be obtained for the construction of the huts and
to pole the canoes up the river. Wakatimi seemed to
offer both these advantages. From the general air of
50
 Types of Papuans
1. A Papuan with hair dressed as a
coa>t halo.
2. The headman of Parimau village.
3. A coast native wearing a necklace of cassowary feathers.
4. The best carrier. Note the Semitic type.
 SELECTING A SITE
permanency which pervaded the village, it appeared
unlikely that the site was subject to floods, though it
was evident, from the great rise in the river which took
place daily, that we were still within the area of tidal
waters. The lie of the land led one to believe that
the effect of the tide was to be felt for many miles
farther inland, and that a safer site might be found
higher up the river, but then it was improbable that
another village existed within a reasonable distance,
and, moreover, without a launch great difficulty would
be experienced in communicating with the relief ships.
On the bank opposite to the village a possible site

offered ; at this point the river doubled upon itself,

leaving a peninsula almost surrounded by water. Here

sanitary arrangements would be more easily supervised,
and we would be near to, and yet not affected by, the
Papuan habitations. On this spot Goodfellow decided
that the stores should be landed and the base camp
built, as in addition to its other advantages it was of a
convenient size and only sparsely timbered..
Having been escorted up and down the village two
or three times by the able-bodied men, and after in-
dulging in various amenities knowing the
(neither
other's language), including introductions to the more
important-looking savages, we crossed to the peninsula,
and there left Cramer and his men to camp for the
night and prepare for the advent of the stores and
building material on the morrow.
Cramer had a more unpleasant task than was antici-
pated, as the railing which he at once erected round his
tents was over and over again pushed to the ground by
the weight of the ever-increasing number of spectators.
He spent a most uncomfortable night, but next day
51
 UNMANNERLY CURIOSITY
some reliefwas experienced by adding to the working
parties who, in time, were able to build a palisade
sufficient to witlistand all possible strain. It was not
that the Papuans were offensive ; it was simply an

overbearing desire to see more of the weird race who

had so unexpectedly come into their midst. Later on,
as the novx'lty wore off, their behaviour became less
pleasant, sulkiness and insolence taking the place of
curiosity, to such an extent that it was found necessary
on two occasions to make an example of the offenders.
Relations then improved, and remained more or less
friendly to the close of the expedition.
Drink was entirely responsible for any hostile feel-
ing displayed, and the cutting down of some of the
sugar-palm trees in the vicinity of the camp removed
temptation out of their way. As these trees were used
for no other purpose than the extraction of beer, this
involved no real hardship on the villagers.

52
 CHAPTER IV
—
Coast and up-river tribes— The Papuan— Albinos Native hairdressing
— —
Personal adornments Native costume Civilisation and morality
— — —
Compulsory clothing Widow's weeds Male attire Improving nature
— — —
The drunken savage Corporal punishment Treatment of children
— — — —
Female subjugation Native diet A curious delicacy A fertile soil
— Native indolence

THE inhabited portion of the JNIimika district con-

sists of four distinct zones. The most southerly
isthe belt of land twelve miles in width running along
the coast, and inhabited by the people known as the
coast tribes. Immediately to the north of this is a
barren or sparsely tenanted strip of country ; while to
the north again, but stiU in the plains, is the zone com-
prising the territory containing the headwaters of the
smaller rivers, and inhabited by people usually known
as the up-river natives.There still remain the lower
foothills of themain central range of mountains in
which dwell the small men, or the pygmies, called by
the plainsmen Tapiros. Of this latter race I shall
have more to say later on.
Though the plainsmen live on the same river, and
are doubtless of the same stock, the coast and up-river
tribes are at constant enmity, neither branch desiring
intercourse with the other, nor, except on rare occasions,
is there any trade between them. With the tribes
which live directly to the east and west they each have
the closest relations, though even here they are not too
demonstrative in their affection when they meet. This
53
 THE PAPUAN
is hardly to be wondered at, when it is known that even
individuals and families of the same village are per-
petually quarrelling amongst themselves, the slightest
excuse being usually sufficient to fan into flame the
smouldering embers of real or imaginary wrongs.
Physically the Papuan of the INIimika Coast is an
extraordinarily fine creature, which is all the more

surprising when the slothful life he leads, the meagre

food upon which he subsists, and the amount of disease
prevalent in this swampy district are taken into con-
sideration. The average height is about five feet six
and a half inches, slightly above that of the average
European, whilst the chest measurement shows an
excess of two and a half inches. The muscular develop-
ment is immense. The arms slightly exceed in length
those of the Western races, though the lower limbs are
not so powerfully moulded as the trunk and upper
extremities. The head is small in circumference, on
account of the slight development of the occipital pro-
minence. The jaw is heavy and square, but not
prognathous. The eyes, set rather close together, are
dark brown in colour, the iris not hard and distinct,
but gradually merging into the blotchy light brown of
the eyeball. The nose is straight, arched, and decidedly
Semitic in type, the nostrils being flattened, but not to
the same extent as in the negro. The teeth, as is the
case with all savages, are strong and regular, and in
the case of the males often filed to a point. I have

used the word " filed," but the way in which this
deformity is effected is by chipping away the sides of
the teeth with pieces of flints or sharpened shells, used
in the same way as a chisel. In colour the Papuan is
almost coal black, the women being slightly fairer than
54
 NATIVE HAIRDRESSING
the men. During our stay we saw three albinos at
various times, all males. Two of these were full-grown
men ; both possessed hair of a dirty reddish colour,
while their skins were of a pale whity-pink, with here
and there patches of a darker hue. Though of good
physique, the weird colouring and disfiguring blotches
rendered them altogether repulsive objects. A black
man always appears dressed, and, from the point of
decency, requires no clothes, but these two, owing
to their and uneven colouring, appeared not
sickly
only but naked as well.
objectionable The third
was a baby of about nine months old, of which the
parents, both coal-black Papuans, were inordinately
proud. His hair was sandy, and his eyes (practically
without pigment) of a pale grey colour. In their
heedless way the parents habitually carry their
children face uppermost, so that this mite, in the full
glare of the sun's rays, suffered considerably, judging
from the way in which he screwed up his eyes.
It is a pity tliat the JNIimika Papuan cuts off that
magnificent crop of fuzzy hair which is so much re-
spected and admired in other parts of New Guinea, for
in so doing he loses much of his natural picturesque
appearance. This wonderful head covering, which if
left to itself will provide the owner with a natural
adornment three or four feet in circumference, is here
so trimmed that the growth is reduced to, at the most,
four or five inches. Until our advent knives were
unknown, and the hair was removed by a slow and
not altogether pleasant operation, in which the barber
either made use of a sharpened shell or got rid of the
superfluous article by placing it on the edge of a split
cane and rubbing it with a stone until the desired effect
55
 PERSONAL ADORNMENTS
was obtained. This custom may be of some use from
the point of view of cleanliness, but it certainly does
not completely eradicate the objectionable insects so
prevalent amongst these people. Their hair either
remains as it leaves the tender mercies of the barber
or is an
plaited into small ridges, a fashion that gives
uncommonly neat appearance to the wearer, but which
requires so much time for its completion that days and
even weeks elapse before it is again taken in hand.
This custom is mainly confined to the young bloods,
the older men, being careless as to their appearance,
prefer to let the hair grow as nature intended it.

Into the hair is thrust, particularly on festive days,

a number of white cockatoo's tail feathers, which stand
out at every angle, and on still more rare occasions
some brilliantly-coloured flower. In some instances
many feathers of the same bird are formed into a ray
standing up around the head, affording a very
all

pleasing effect. The glorious orange plumes of the

Greater Bird of Paradise are only worn on very im-
portant occasions, or by the performers at a sing-song,
thus greatly adding to the picturesqueness of such a
scene. These feathers are kept in position by a band
passed round the wearer's brow, or by a kind of crown
made of plaited grass in which as many as five plumes
are sported at one time. One or two men encountered
during the last month of our stay, who said they came
from another district farther west, wore their hair in
the form of a half halo, tlie rays being formed of many
pieces of cane plaited into the hair, and standing at
right angles to the scalp. This must have proved
highly uncomfortable at night, necessitating the use
of a wood pillow or something upon which to rest the
56
 B«S
^
!.A
•^..

^ ^ ^

A Papuan Family
The woman iswearing a pendant of boar's tushes and trade beads. Cockatoo's feathers are in
the man's hair, and plaited grass bracelets protect the wrist from injury when firing with bow
and arrow.
 NATIVE COSTUME
neck. Round the biceps, and also above the calf, are

sewn bands of finely-woven grass, two or tliree inches

in width, worked into some pattern by the introduc-
tion of another strand of bright yellow. No other
decorations are favoured, except occasionally a string
of large blue and white beads slung around the
neck. These beads are often much worn at the
edges, appear to be of great age, and have most pro-
bably been brought into the land by the natives
of the Kei Islands to the south. That these latter
people do occasionally visit the coast of New Guinea
is certain, as the Papuans know them by name and

apparently bear them no enmity. Their probable

object in coming is to seek for cocoa-nuts with which
to trade in copra, a valuable commodity in the East.
The women are given to still less self-adornment
than the men, and, with the exception of a few beads,
wear nothing but the loin-cloth. This is made from
the bark of a tree, beaten for hours until it is as thin
and pliable as paper. A strip is passed- between the
legs and through a string tied round the waist, leaving
about a foot of the ends pendant in front and behind.
Poor wretches their days are one long round of toil,
!

and they have little leisure to think of trinkets or

decoration. Girls are similarly adorned when very
young, but boys go about quite nude until they are
fourteen or fifteen years of age, or even until fully
gro\vn some indeed refuse to wear anything all their
;

lives. Nothing obscene or indecent is ever visible to

the stranger, and the absence of privacy in the com-
munal home tends to preclude tlie possibility of im-
moral behaviour at any other time.
Immorality is one of the evils which spring from
57
 CIVILISATION AND MORALITY
civilisation. At present the morals of these natives
are as nature made them, and will remain so until the
advent of the trader with unlimited cloth, or of those
misguided missioners, whose first idea in converting
the savage to Christianity is to conceal from view,
behind hideous and non-hygienic garments, the form
of one of the finest animals in creation. With this
phase of civilisation, dirt, disease, and vice will take
root and flourish, to end doubtless here, as elsewhere,
in the extermination of the aboriginal stock. This
question of compulsory clothing, insisted upon by so
many in their efforts to convert the savage to Chris-
tianity, is the one and only point in proselytising work
to which I am entirely opposed. In a climate like
this, where day and night, month in and month out,
the temperature lies between 70° and 93° Fahrenheit,
where the heavens pour down an everlasting flood, and
where the only means of communication are by river
and sodden jungle paths, can anything be more ridicu-
lous than to supplement the natural oily skin covering
of the native by the unhealthy, uncomfortable, and
ugly garments which custom has decreed civilised man
must wear ? Take Amboina for example. What can
be more inappropriate than the black alpaca coverings
worn by the Christian women ? One might almost
weep at the sight were it not so ludicrous. I am glad
to see that the Administrator of British New Guinea
has lately issued a warning to all natives against the
prevailing craze for European clothing. Let us hope
that it may bear fruit. Apart from this minor point,
however, there is no portion of the earth's surface
where the teaching of the great message, "love one
another," is more urgently required.
58
 MALE ATTIRE
If dress can be looked upon as a source of pleasure,
widows in Papua are to be envied, inasmuch as they
are required to adopt outward and visible signs of their
bereavement. A widow of standing will decorate her-
selfwith a short and scanty bodice of woven grass,
which leaves the stomach bare, while from the hips
will hang a more ragged form of skirt, usually
still

in an unspeakably dirty state. Surmounting all is

a peculiarly-shaped poke bonnet, made of the same
material, which fits tightly to the head and projects in
front as much as a foot ; unless the lady wishes to be
seen, this completely hides her face. Young widows
are not so careful to conceal their charms, and are
usually satisfied with the scantiest of skirts in the form
of bunches of grass hanging in front and behind, and,
if they fancy it, with more tufts hanging from the
biceps. As may be imagined, these do not favour the
bonnet.
As is to be expected in a country situated on the
Equator and at the level of the sea, clothing is practi-
cally non-existent. The style of dress worn by the
men varies according to the taste of the individual,
almost all having some form of pubic covering. The
kind most commonly worn consists of a strip of bark
cloth, similar to that of the women, but narrower
and shorter, a large white and flat sea-shell placed on
the stomach, under which is caught the praputium, or
a hollow and beautifully carved bamboo, five or six
inches in length. On this latter sheath they expend
all their ingenuity and knowledge of carving, a picture
of the human eye occupying a prominent position, as
it does on all household and personal articles.

Tattooing is of the crudest description, and is not

59
 IMPROVING NATURE
practised to any great extent ; it usually takes the form of
scarifying the breasts of the women on the inner sides,
thus contracting the skin and raising unsightly ridges
three-quarters of an inch or more in heiglit. Some few
have their backs cicatrised in a like manner the slashes ;

are made in any direction and, so far as we could judge,

without following any definite pattern. This operation
is performed with sharp shells lieated in the fire it is ;

a painful process, from which the men are exempt,

except for the tribal mark which they all have on the
buttocks, in the shape of a diamond with three lines
radiating from the corners. The lobes of the ears of
men and women alike are pierced, and any ornament
fancied by the wearer is suspended from them. After
our arrival many of our useless odds and ends, such as
saccharine bottles, Jew's harps, &c., there found a rest-
ing-place. The lobes and sometimes the septum of the
nose are likewise pierced, the initiation ceremony
taking place when the child is ten or twelve years of
age ; the hole is kept open by a plug of wood, to which
a fresh twist is given daily. Aseptic surgery being
quite unknown, it is not surprising that in many
instances the septum sloughs away, and the man is left
with a nose as pointed as a needle. When it is desired
to impart a particularly fierce expression to the face,
the split mandible of the hornbill worn through the
is

hole in the septum. This ornament, consisting of two

thin white blades of horn, each five to six inches in
length, with the ends curving upwards, will so alter the
expression of the wearer as to convert the mildest
looking man into tlie fiercest and most truculent of
warriors.
These savages, violent and hasty in temper, rush to
60
 Widow's Weeds
A widow in her weeds of tufts of grass and plaited bodice
 THE DRUNKEN SAVAGE
arms on the slightest provocation. Without warning,
a peaceful village is in a moment converted into a scene
of turmoil and strife ; spears whizz through the air,

clubs are wielded indiscriminately and with murderous

intent, while the place resounds with wild yells of all
and sundry. It is curious that the members of small
communities such as these cannot live together in
harmony. AVakatimi was a particularly guilty village
in this respect, a day rarely passing without noisy and
sanguinary broils, and it was drink which was largely
responsible for this state of affairs. Beer-drinking
parties set out daily for the popular spot where the
sugar palms grew and remained there for hours, return-
ing sodden with alcohol to the village in a fit state to
any brawl or devilment which might be
participate in
on foot. Two
small boys usually accompanied each
party to climb and tap the sugar-palms and make
themselves generally useful. The return to the village
was heralded by loud and discordant cries and much
singing, followed soon after by wife beating, house
burning, or some such attractive form of amusement.
One case, however, I must mention, which shows that
here, as in other more civilised parts of the world,
when a married couple quarrel, it is not always the
man who has things all his own way.
The headman of Wakatimi, a pleasant enough
creature when sober, invariably wanted to fight when
under the influence of drink, and usually chose his wife
as the object upon which to work off his feelings.
Returning one day from a carouse, he seized his bow
and arrows and used his wife as a target. But the
trees of the village were in the way, so taking to his
canoe, he pushed off into the open stream and started
61
 CORPORAL PUNISHMENT
his practice afresh. What with the lurching of the
canoe and a muddled brain the shooting was decidedly
poor, and this enabled his wife to stand in comparative
safety upon the bank and dare him to do his worst.
Satisfied with the brave show, and having exhausted
his stock of arrows, he returned to the shore, little
dreaming of the reception which awaited him. Scream-
ing with rage, the infuriated wife tore the bow from
his hands and broke it into splinters over his back
and over the canoe. Completely cowed, he turned
and cooled his heated head in the water, and was
then driven, an abject and pitiable wreck, to their hovel,
whilst his angry spouse followed him up and improved
the occasion with an endless stream of Billingsgate.
Fathers and mothers are alike kind to their
children. As is natural, during babyhood the mother's
affection is the stronger, but at the age of five or six
the boy frees himself from such trammels, goes out
when he wishes, does what he chooses, and merely
returns to the family hut for his due allowance of
sago and fish, or occasionally to refresh himself at the
maternal breast. Girls are more timid, cling closely
to their mothers, and join at an early age in the daily
labour in the sago-swamps they rarely leave their
;

mothers until the time comes for them to found a new

home and family of their own. Boys appear more
numerous than girls possibly, as in Tibet, a provision
;

of Nature to keep down the population. The children

are well-behaved little creatures; they know better
than to behave disrespectfully to their fathers or to
anyone bigger than themselves, and never hesitate to
obey an order. They are consequently treated with
kindness and are only beaten on rare occasions, and,
62
 TREATMENT OF CHILDREN
from what Ihave seen, only when they deserve it.
Uncontrollable temper is their besetting sin; an
obstreperous boy, wild with rage at being thwarted,
will defy his mother and all his female relations. For
a time every persuasive epithet is used to reduce him
to submission, and not till all peaceful means have
been exhausted is corporal punishment resorted to.
It then descends like a tornado in the form of a
shower of blows from the irate mother, sufficient
to drive all breath from the body and thus ensure
silenceand submission. I never saw a girl struck.
Justice, as we understand the term, is unknown.
Here, might is right, and it is entirely in the hands
of the stronger to settle what is right and what is
wrong. Woman, the weaker creature, is consequently
relegated to a very inferior position, and is, in fact,
the slave, body and soul, of her lord and master,
becoming property to deal with as he pleases.
his
Condemned to toil from morning till night, beaten if
she does not satisfy his every want, the wife seeks for
and prepares her master's food, builds his hut, makes
the matting and bark cloth for his bedding and his
clothing, carries his household goods from place to
place and helps to pole his canoe. Her chastity is of
no value in his eyes, he will offer her to the first white
man he meets, and probably to all his friends.
But little ground is cultivated. A few cocoa-nut
and banana trees and two or three dozen tobacco plants
are found in the neighbourhood of most villages, but
the natives depend for their food -supply almost
entirely upon what the jungle and rivers produce.
Sago is the staple food, and an unlimited supply is to be
found in any of the forest swamps. Collection entails
63
 NATIVE DIET
much labour, the tree having to be felled before the
food can be extracted. The
simplest and most usual
way of cooking the sago by rolling it into balls and
is

placing it on the hot embers until warmed through,

when the outer crust becomes hard. It is quite taste-
less and gives little pleasure to a civilised palate, but

that it is nutritious goes without saying, and indeed

is proved by the splendid physique of the savages.

The next most important article of diet is fish, and

this can always be obtained in ample quantities if the
water is in good condition for fishing, and if sufficient
perseverance is shown. Along the coast enough fish
can be caught to supply the needs of the villagers
with the minimum of exertion. INleat is much appre-
ciated and eagerly sought after, pig being considered
the daintiest morsel, then wallaby, cuscus, and casso-
wary. Now and again a bird is obtained, but this is

generally the result of luck rather than skill.

The above are the chief articles of food, and any

other supplies which may be brought in are looked
upon more as occasional luxuries than articles of every-
day These comprise small alligators, tortoises,
diet.
iguanas, snakes, prawns, and last but not least the
white grubs found in the decaying trunks of the sugar
palm. These grubs, which are about two inches in
length and nearly as thick as one's little finger, are to
be found in tens of thousands in a tree ripe enough to
support them, and are looked upon as a great delicacy.
It is a most interesting and rather disgusting sight
when a lucky finder hauls the trunk of a grub-bearing
palm down stream and grounds it on the village shore.
Apparently it then becomes the property of all, or the
whole village is invited to join in the feast, which
64
 A Nai ivE Bkau IV

The belle of Parimau with her child. On the right is a fishing-net for use in small creeks.
 A CURIOUS DELICACY
amounts to the same thing. Without loss of time
— —
every soul man, woman, and child troops down
to the find, the tiniest tots toddling in rear of their
elders, all hastening along hent on being in at the
death, each carrying whatever instrument first comes
to hand with which to detach a piece of the richly
laden wood. Others hasten up from more distant huts
and join the crowd until it resembles a swarm of black
ants seething round the body of a dead animal. From
time to time one of them having secured a good slice
breaks away from the surging mass and departs to
devour his meal at leisure. For those who remain to
deal with the main portion of the trunk there is now
no :time to be wasted, and the wriggling grubs are
drawn from their holes and popped into their captors'
mouths as fast as they can be seized. When the tree
brought in particularly rich in food the greedier
is

natives may be seen with half a dozen squirming grubs

in each hand, all destined for the same sad end as soon
as space can be found. The sight is not a pretty one,
but it is worth watching to see the smile of satisfiiction
upon the faces of thegourmets as they enjoy this un-
expected addition to their usual monotonous diet.
Bananas grow well wherever there is light and air,
but the young shoots of this tree have to be transplanted,
and though this entails but the lightest labour, they are
not produced in any quantity except at the village of
Obota, at the mouth of the Kapare. There are no
cocoa-nut trees along the upper reaches of the rivers,
though they form an important item in the food-supply
of the villages on the coast, and with the exception of
sago, there is practically no vegetable food found grow-
ing in a wild state in the forests. There is indeed a
65 E
 A FERTILE SOIL
tree bearing a small green fruit resembling a plum in
flavour and appearance, but this only ripens for a very
limited period of the year. Small and tasteless figs of
various descriptions are to be met with, but of such
poor quality as not to be worth picking, besides which
a worm appears in them before they ripen. Near the
villages one occasionally sees one or two bread-fruit or
papaya trees, but they are few and far between, and no
trouble is taken to cultivate them.
The natural richness of the soil is such that even the
most primitive methods of agriculture would be amply
rewarded but in Papua, as elsewhere, one observes
;

that where nature is most lavish in her gifts man is too

indolent to make use of them. That the soil is of
great natural fertility was shown not only by the
flourishing gardens, the result of a few months' work
on the part of the Dutch soldiers and convicts at
Wakatimi, but also by the luxuriant growth of the
few seeds planted in our small gardens at Parimau. A
single pumpkin plant would grow completely over the
roof of a hut and, spreading to the next, would envelop
it also in its folds. Rice grew and flourished without
any attention being paid to it from the day it was
sown ; and beans, planted by our Gurkha escort,
attained a height of 25 feet within a few months of
being placed in the ground, and produced a plentiful
crop to the great satisfaction of the sturdy hillmen who
had introduced them into the country.
So rich is the soil that successful cultivation is
rendered difficult by the great amount of labour
required to keep the ground clear of weeds and other
parasitic plants. The vigorous bush springs up im-
mediately and relentlessly throttles the foreign
66
 NATIVE INDOLENCE
importation, so that, without constant weeding, the
cleared area in a comparatively short time reverts to
its forest growth ; the indigenous weeds and shrubs
indeed appear to flourish with renewed vigour on such
a clearing, as if eager to reconquer the ground tempo-
rarily wrested from them by the renegade plants which
exist only to serve the needs of man. Before our
arrival the primitive tools in the possession of the
savages made it impossible for any thorough clearing
of the ground to be successfully carried out, but even
with proper implements most unlikely that their
it is

natural indolence will allow them seriously to attempt

the removal of weeds and shrubs which in this country
of luxuriant growth is an essential preliminary to any
effort at cultivation. Some axes we left behind, but
it is highly probable that they are now more fre-
quently used in family or tribal quarrels than for the
useful but uncongenial purposes for which they were
intended, and I do not doubt that the forest has long
since reclaimed the flourishing gardens which we handed
over to the villages on our departure.
Such were the people amongst whom we were to
pursue our labours for the next fifteen months, and
such were our first impressions of the unknown country
into the interior of which no European expedition had
hitherto penetrated. What lay before us we did not
know, but through all our struggles and disappoint-
ments the thought that we were doing something,
however small, to lift the veil from one of the dark
places of the earth buoyed us up and gave us courage
for further effort.

67
 CHAPTER V
— Poor sport — Barter and exchange—A primitive aboriginal
Shark-fishing
— Ugly rumours — Cannibalism — An open question — Difficulties of
pioneering — Learning the language — A Papuan canoe — Buying a
fleet

DURING the days following our arrival at Wakatimi

the work of transferring the stores from the ship
to the base camp was carried on without intermission,
and by the ninth day everything had been landed, and
the huts were in course of erection. The forest had
been cleared over an area of a couple of acres not a —
difficult task, as the land there was more sparsely tim-
bered than at any other spot in the district.
During the progress of this work, those who were
still on the ship varied the monotony of their hours by

fishing for sharks.Having heard that the w^aters sur-

rounding New Guinea swarmed with these objectionable
creatures, we had, when in Batavia, purchased two
large iron hooks with wire attachments ; these, together
with a good, strong rope and a few pounds of pork,
formed a very efficient outfit. Before casting the bait
overboard elaborate preparations ^vere made, in view of
the anticipated struggle, to bring a powerful strain to
bear on the line as soon as the hook was well home.
The fishermen had but a few minutes to wait before a
steady pull on the line showed that a shark had already
got to w^ork. Many willing hands grasped the rope,
ready to meet the rush which was expected, but, except
for a run of a few yards, and half a dozen sullen tugs,
the fight turned out a fiasco. Two men were all that
were required to drag the beast alongside he was there;

68
 SHARK-FISHTNG
despatched with a couple of bullets, and the carcase
hauled on deck. After much chopping with axes the
hook was extracted, and the body cut into pieces and
thrown overboard. Two more were captured in rapid
succession, the bellies of each filled with cast-away
portions of their deceased relative, but neither gave
a better display of strength or courage than the first
victim, though three or four bullets were necessary to
finish them off. We were surprised to find that such
immense and reputedly savage creatures could have so
little fight in them. The game proved so uninteresting
that after the capture of the third victim it was aban-
doned, and this decision was the more readily come to
as the captain had strong objections to his deck being
turned into a shambles. When one considers the size
of these sharks, it is hard to believe that such monsters
are incapable of putting up a better fight for their
lives. Though some of the stories one has heard of
ferocious struggles and desperate rushes made by sharks
when hooked are doubtless exaggerated, many are so
well authenticated that one must assume that the
sharks which abound in the seas of New Guinea are
more cowardly and sluggish than those in other waters,
where they are considered to afford good sport. None
of the sharks we caught were small, and though when
drawn alongside the ship they were quite anxious to
get away, they did not seem to have sufficient strength
to do so. They subsist mainly on crabs and what can
be found on the bed of the sea. The smaller kind the
natives themselves catch and devour with as much
relish as they do other and more prepossessing-looking
fish. Sharks are always put down as savage and vora-
cious antagonists when they meet man in their own
element, but from what we were able to observe this
69
 BARTER AND EXCHANGE
cannot be considered as universally true. The Papuans
go far out to sea in their frail craft, and in rough
weather often get upset in fact, this happened to them
;

many times whilst hanging around our ship, but on no

occasion was a man attacked, nor did the natives show
any fear of such an eventuality.
While those at sea were enjoying this mild sport,
those on land had plenty of opportunity to examine
the people amongst whom they had been cast. As
they had no idea how long we were to stay in their
country, the Papuans displayed great anxiety during
the first few weeks to take our rubbish in exchange
for their most valued possessions. At this time
everything new was precious in their eyes, however
useless in reality. Little enough they had to barter,
but what they brought was eagerly sought for by the
collectors, or, if it was in the shape of food, by the
soldiers and coolies. Paddles, bows and arrows, carved
prows of canoes, stone axes and clubs, cocoa-nuts, crabs,
bits of fish, &c. were readily exchanged for old salmon
tins, broken bottles, nails, strips of iron off the packing
cases, matches, and other odds and ends. It was
quite pitiful to see a bundle of elaborately carved and
decorated arrow-heads handed over for the coloured
label off a biscuit tin ; a paddle covered with intricate
carving exchanged for a bit of broken looking-glass
or, as I once witnessed, four or five lbs. weight of
fish bartered for a dirty sheet of newspaper. It was
necessary, however, to keep the prices low to start
with we soon found that the price of labour and other
;

commodities rose quite quickly enough, for, with few

requirements, the indolent savage has no inducement
to do another stroke of work when once he has obtained
what he has set his heart upon.
70
 A PRIMITIVE ABORIGINAL
For those of us who wished to study the habits and
manners of the natives, there was ample opportunity
during the time devoted to building and equipping the
base camp. We were surrounded day after day by an
eager throng of savages, numerous enough to have
swamped the camp had they been allowed to come
within the fence, their natural reserve forgotten in
the desire to trade. Endless questions forced them-
selves upon the mind, and, among others, the one as
to whether these men were cannibals or not. The
inhabitants of New
Guinea and the islands to the east
have justly earned a bad reputation with regard to
cannibalism, but it is open to doubt whether all are
tarred with the same brush, and whether every tribe is
addicted to this practice. Opinions differ on this sub-
ject, but the fact must not be lost sight of that a tale
of adventure loses nothing in the telling when set in a
framework of ferocious cannibalism. The Mimika
Papuan is, as yet, unaffected by the slow but sure
advance of civilisation which is by degrees causing
other races in this part of the world to abandon their
savage customs, and remains a representative of the
primitive aboriginal who inhabited the land when
Australia, New Guinea, and the South Sea Islands
formed one great continent.
Swayed by animal instincts, his intelligence is of
a very low order his physique, on the contrary, is
;

magnificent, for in this climate it is a case of the sur-

vival of the fittest. It is due to his
in large part
reputation for treachery, and cannibalism,
ferocity,
which has deterred even the most enthusiastic of
travellers, that he has existed undisturbed in a state
of savagery, and that his country has remained unex-
plored and unmapped up to the present time.
71
 UGLY RUMOURS
The of New Guinea, and of the better
history
known and German sections in particular,
British
teems with examples of Papuan cunning and brutahty.
Many are the accounts related of deeds of horror
perpetrated upon traders, missionaries, gold-diggers,
and castaways many are the thrilling stories of men
;

who have been treacherously murdered in sight of their

friends, or who have mysteriously vanished never to
return. The larger number of these reports are un-
doubtedly true, but others are just as surely exag-
gerated, for the lapse of time, repetition, and the
natural desire to interest invariably causes the account
of an event of this kind to become embellished with
details which in all probability have no connection with
what actually happened. The following tale, however,
is undoubtedly true
In the year 1858 the St. Paul was wrecked off the
coast of British New
Guinea, three hundred of the
survivors, all Chinese, being marooned upon a small
island near Rossel, from whence no escape was possible.
They were here fed and fattened by the Papuans, and
when required for consumption two or three at a time
were taken off to the mainland, where they were boiled
in a spring of hot water and then eaten. Dr. C. G.
Seligmann throws some doubt upon the story, and
maintains that they made rafts and sailed away to the
east; but INIr. J. H. Murray, who in 1911 carefully
inquired into the case, states that the Rossel Islanders
owned up to the murder, and added that when they at
length became surfeited with a diet of Chinamen they
hawked the unfortunate survivors round the coast and
sold them to the highest bidders, all except one who,
from age or leanness, was unacceptable to even the least
fastidious taste, and who was allowed to make his escape.
72
 CANNIBALISM
Many examples ean be quoted, for there is no
doubt that cannibalism is common in many parts of
the island, and is practised even in the more settled
districts when it can be done without coming to the
notice of the few wliite officials. The prevalence of
this custom seems to be due, in the majority of cases,
simply to the liking for human flesh ; sometimes an
enemy is eaten as an act of revenge, but there is no
idea that in so doing the good qualities of the deceased
are acquired. The Milne Bay tribes have been known
to carry their liking for human flesh to still greater
extremes, going so far as to dig up and devour freshly-
buried corpses. JNJr. Chalmers relates a story of how

a Bonarua woman dug up her recently deceased

husband to feed a friend. This act caused much in-
dignation at the time, not so much because there was
considered to be anything wrong in the eating of the
flesh when exhumed, but because the men of the tribe
disliked the idea of being devoured by their own wives.
In the majority of cases the victim is captured in
battle or by stealth in revenge for some former
—
injury though it is not uncommon for organised raids
to be made for the express purpose of obtaining heads
as trophies and the bodies for food. If the captives are
required for the latter purpose care is taken not to kill
them on the field of battle, but to bind and bring them
to the village of the conquerors there to be despatched ;

the way in which this is done varying in accordance

with the customs of the different tribes. As a rule,
the victim is finished off with a club, speared, or, after
being wrapped in dry leaves, is bound to a tree and
burnt to death. This latter method is not always
successful, instances being on record of the victim
bursting the half-burnt cords, and though dreadfully
73
 CANNIBALISM
injured, effecting his escape. In the case of one tribe
this gruesome custom is not without a touch of uncon-
scious humour, the members claiming that human
flesh is preferable to that of pig, as, no matter what
quantity is eaten, the former never induces indigestion.

A¥hether or not the natives of the Mimika district

are addicted to cannibalism it is impossible to say
with certainty. Savage races have in many cases been
accused of this practice on the flimsiest grounds, and
unless the people own to it themselves, or unmistak-
able evidence of the fact, such as the finding of remains
of a feast, charred human bones, or even fractured
skulls is forthcoming, it is hardly just to write them
all down as cannibals. The custom of filing the front
teeth to a point, which is practised by so many tribes
in different parts of the world, and often assumed by
travellers to be a sign of cannibalism, is also general
amongst the natives of the Mimika district ; this, we
believe, is done, however, because they consider that
pointed teeth improve a man's appearance, and not
with the idea of enabling them to tear human flesh
with greater ease.
The natives, when questioned by us on the subject
of cannibalism, at times showed abhorrence, and on
other occasions appeared to be merely amused at the
idea. Once or twice during our stay, when trouble
was brewing with other villages and a fight seemed
imminent, we asked them what punishment they would
mete out to their enemies. With a wealth of most
realistic gestures to explain their meaning, they replied
that they would cut their throats, slice open their
stomachs, or cut off their limbs. To our question :

Would they eat them ? " Yes yes " was the un-! !

hesitating reply. It seemed to us, however, that in

74
 AN OPEN QUESTION
speaking thus, they were actuated more by bravado
than by any real intention of celebrating their expected
victory by a cannibalistic feast. Skulls suspended by
string from the roof and blackened by smoke were to
be seen in every hut. Sometimes the skull and larger
bones of the body were kept together in woven grass
bags and there can be no doubt that these belonged
;

to deceased relatives, for on several occasions we

were able to witness the collection and storage of
remains of natives who had died during our stay.
Moreover, none of the skulls showed signs of fracture,
as would have been the case had they been obtained
in battle. Nor did we ever discover any charred bones
or other traces of human feasts. To conclude this
subject, while we were in the Mimika district we were
unable to come to any definite conclusion as to the
existence of cannibalism, and at that it must rest until
further investigation settles the matter one way or
another.
During the building of the base camp one of our
chief difficulties was to protect the more perishable
stores from the heavy rain which fell regularly at
four o'clock every afternoon, and lasted for two or
three hours. In spite of every care, much food was
ruined owing to the tarpaulin coverings giving no
better protection than would cotton handkerchiefs.
Cramer and his Javanese were better off in this respect,
as they were provided with ready-made mats and the
bamboo framework for huts, and so had no difficulty
in rapidly erecting dry and airy go-downs.
Our chief preoccupation at this time, however, was
to find a route to the north, and the means of trans-
porting our stores to the head of the river. How far
off this lay, and in what direction, we were unable to
75
 DIFFICULTIES OF PIONEERING
discover, for at this period, owin<»- to our entire ignor-
ance of the dialect, we had no means of questioning the
natives and of obtaining the information we required.
Furthermore, no one had ever been in this part of the
country before, and there was no known basis on which
to start tlie most elementary conversations.
The language of signs, however, possesses a rich
vocabulary in which one soon becomes proficient when
the necessities of life are required, and it was to this we
turned in our desire to obtain river transport. Fortu-
nately, the natives were for the time being wild on
barter, and anxious not only to dispose of their super-
fluous trifles, but everything they possessed. In India
the conversation of the native in the bazaars almost
invariably turns upon the subject of pice or ghi, and
similarly in this land of New Guinea the favourite topics
of discussion are either flesh or the articles in daily
use. Nevertheless, in spite of the lack of ideas and
the limited vocabulary the difficulty experienced in
dividing and classifying the words passes belief, for
never twice would the same word be used for the same
object. Slowly, and with infinite patience, a list of
the commoner articles was compiled, our dictionary
becoming gradually more complete as time went on.
At this work Wollaston and Cramer showed the
greatest aptitude, and on their shoulders at this period
rested the principal burden of conversation. Not a
single Javanese, soldier or convict, ever learnt a word
during the whole time they remained in the country,
but certain of the Gurkhas showed considerable in-
genuity in making themselves understood. fewA
common Malay words were adopted by the Papuans,
and these being easy to pronounce, the corresponding
words in the native dialect ultimately fell into disuse.
76
 LEARNING THE EANGUAGE
Many months were to elapse before we could make
ourselves readily understood, even on the most ordinary
topics, though it w^as a comparatively simple matter,
and one only requiring patience to discover and learn
the names of the various articles verbs, adjectives, and
;

adverbs are also necessary to build up a sentence, and

great difficulty was experienced in extracting these
from the string of guttural sounds, and in obtaining
their correct meaning. The natives never seemed to
grasp the fact that we desired to learn their language
at times they appeared delighted with our attempts at
conversation, but more often they would listen with a
bored and abstracted look. Even in their happiest
moods it was found impossible to keep their attention
fixed on one subject for many minutes at a time.
The purchase of canoes was quite a simple matter,
the word " Koo " being quite sufficient to express what
we required, whilst the article to be exchanged, when
examined (but not touched) by the natives, determined
the price. Before the end of the first week a fleet of
ten of these craft had come into our possession.
It may not be out of place to describe these canoes
more fully, if only to show that the Papuans must be
possessed of greater energy and skill than they are
usually credited with. Each canoe is from fifty to
sixty feet long, or even more in length, and two to two
and a half feet in width,and is fashioned from a single
tree trunk. The bows slope gently away so as to
form a convenient platform for the use of the pole,
whilst in the stern, where the wood is of greater thick-
ness, a cross beam two to three inches high is left,

against which sand heaped for use as a fireplace.

is

Both bow and stern, and in many cases the sides also,
are carved, and on festive occasions planks of wood,
77
 A PAPUAN CANOE
elaborately fretworked, are fixed upright in the bows,
whilst the sides are decorated with pendant fringes of
grass. The crew from six to twelve men,
consists of
who paddle standing up, and it is a fine sight to see

them drive their canoe through the water with power-

ful and properly -timed strokes. Europeans may wonder
how the balance is preserved in what, at first sight,
appears to be an exceedingly rickety and unseaworthy
craft ;but after a little practice this becomes a very
simple matter.
Some idea may be formed immense amount
as to the
of labour required to build one of these canoes when it
is understood that, for shaping and hollowing out the
tree, the only tool available is the primitive stone axe,
whilst more intricate parts are finished off and carved
with sharpened shells and a small bit of iron, probably
obtained by barter on the coast. Trees of suitable size
and shape to be fashioned into a boat are few in
number, and are as a rule only to be obtained from
the innermost recesses of the forest. The felling is a
laborious process, stone axes making but little impres-
sion on the hard wood. When levelled, the tree is cut
to the correct length and roughly shaped, after which a
track has to be cleared through the forest to the river
bank and rollers laid along it. Finally, with the com-
bined efforts of the wliole population, the giant log is
hauled and rocked along until the river is reached. The
rough-hewn canoe is then towed to the village beach,
where it is again hauled high and dry, and the weary
task of shaping and hollowing commenced. When this
is complete the sides are carved and the bottom burnt

in order to keep out the boring insects which quickly

invade all dead timber in this climate. Then comes
the ceremony of launching and the trial run, during
78
u a
 BUYING A FLEET
which the builders are easily distinguishable amongst
the excited throng by their complacent and self-satisfied
demeanour.
So keen were the natives on trading that, on our
arrival, the pick of these boats could be purchased for a
knife and a handkerchief apiece, but the demand was
continuous, and the price steadily rose till an axe had
to be given, and towards the end of our stay even the
offer of two axes sometimes failed to clinch the bargain.
Wakatimi was soon sold out, but the news spread, and
before long other canoes were brought in for sale from
the outlying coast villages.
We were fortunate even this primitive
in obtaining
means of transport, for had the people been hostile or
adverse to selling, the expedition would have been in-
definitely delayed at the base. Not one of our men was
capable of constructing any kind of boat, and it was out
of the question to attempt to cut a passage to the hills
through the swampy and almost impenetrable forest
zone. Nevertheless, we had to submit to a certain
amount of delay, for when the question -of transport
had been satisfactorily settled the Mimika rose in flood,
and as we had no launch to assist us, it was found
impossible to make headway against the current.
I may here mention that no expedition should ever
enter New Guinea, essentially a land of water trans-
port, without at least one launch. AVe had none, and
to this was due much loss of time, an endless amount
of trying manual labour, and a certain proportion of the
sickness amongst the coolies. The latter, accustomed
to the slothful life of the East Indian Islands, were
totally unfit to stand the daily strain of eight hours'
heavy toil.

79
 CHAPTER VI
A — — —
missing comrade A fruitless search A heavy blow Unprofitable zeal
— — —
River navigation Collecting a transport The Mimika River Diffi-
—
cult navigation — — —
River flora River fauna Big game Wallaby and
— — — —
cuscus Insect pests Snakes A day of surprises An extraordinary
welcome

JANUARY 10 had been fixed upon as the date on

which the first prospecting party was to set out,
and all arrangements had been completed when an
event occurred which cast a gloom over the camp for
a long time to come.
The morning of the 9th opened with a cloudless sky
which, as we knew only too well, would be succeeded
by torrential rain in the afternoon. Mr. W. Stalker, a
keen and successful collector, well known throughout
Australasia and British Papua, had joined the expedi-
tion at Amboina. Familiar with jungle life and accus-
tomed to wandering alone through untrodden paths, he
left the camp unattended, passing out with the remark
that he was going to do a little shooting in the vicinity.
The usual downpour took place about three o'clock, but
as we heard gunshots from time to time during the
afternoon, no anxiety as to his absence was felt until
darkness set in. It was then too late to render assist-
ance or send out search parties, for the night was pitch
dark and the lashing rain drowned every sound. No
natives were at hand, and even had they been there to
act as guides, it would have been impossible to follow
any track in such a tremendous downpour. To move
80
 A MISSING COMRADE
even fifty yards into the forest after dusk without losing
one's bearings, new as we were to the country, was a
task beyond our power. Through the long hours of
the night we waited anxiously, expecting to hear a
warning shot or some sound of his return, but, as hour
after hour passed by and he did not arrive, we could
only hope that he had found shelter in a native hut.
Morning dawned, but there was still no sign of our
companion.
Lieutenant Cramer at once organised his soldiers
into small parties and despatched them in various direc-
tions to clear paths through the dense undergrowth and
search every foot of the country on either side. Both
Gurkhas and Europeans turned out, taking charge of
a few coolies, a separate area of forest being allotted to
each party, whilst the natives, now aware of what had
happened, vanished by unknown paths to examine all
most likely spots. One after another the search parties
returned to camp, only to report that no trace was to
be found of our missing comrade. Not a footprint, not
a blazed tree trunk or a broken twig or even an ex-
pended cartridge could be seen, nothing which gave
the slightest clue as to his movements.
Throughout this and the following day was the
fruitless search continued, and it was not till the morn-
ing of the 12th, when two or three Papuans, who had
gone out in their canoe to fish, found his body in a
small creek less than half a mile from the camp, that
we learnt how Stalker had met his fate. Along this
very creek search parties had moved backwards and for-
wards several times, struggling through the tangled
creepers which almost hid the water from view. Stalker
must have wandered on into the jungle until overtaken
by the storm and the gathering darkness, and then,
81 F
 A HEAVY BLOW
having lost the direction of the camp, instead of setthng
down to spend the night as best he might until a search
party arrived in the morning, must have tried to fight
his way He had recently suffered from fever,
back.
and combined with the exhaustion resulting from
this,
his desperate efforts to escape from the entangling jungle
and swamp, must have so weakened him that at last he
was incapable of climbing out of the creek into which
he had collapsed. He was buried the same day, beneath
the shade of the one large tree left standing in the space
cleared round the camp.
His grave was not to remain solitary for long
disease and accident were to claim only too many of
our small community, and here, around the tree, were
laid all who died during the months which followed.
Stalker's death was a blow which we felt for many
a long day. Though he had not been with us for long,
we knew that we had lost not only a capable and work-
manlike collector, but also a comrade whom we could
ill spare.
The N'ias, having landed her stores, returned to
Dobo to bring on those coolies for whom accommoda-
tion could not be found on the first trip. Whilst she
was away, Cramer, Goodfellow and I took the oppor-
tunity of making a preliminary expedition towards the
mountains, following the JNIimika up-stream in the
newly purchased canoes. Our first attempt can hardly
be described as a success, for in two days we had not
been able to proceed beyond a point six miles from
camp, where a small branch stream flowed into the
Mimika. Farther than this the Papuans refused to
go, in spite of liberal offers of payment, and we were
obliged to return to our base without having seen a
hill or gained information of any value.

82
 COLLECTING A TRANSPORT
In the meantime the enlisted cooHes, one hundred
innumber, had arrived from Dobo. When in Amboina
I had had a glimpse of these men, but disappointing
though they looked, they were so disguised beneath
a covering of black frock-coats, bowler hats, and
brilliantly-coloured sarongs (a loose skirt), as to give
no idea of their true value. In these same garments
they now appeared in the tropical jungle of New
Guinea, in the land of the naked savage and a more ;

miserable- looking crew I have never seen. The majority

were of about sixteen years of age, but it was not so
much this that shocked us, as that the maimed, the
halt, and the blind of the East, seemed to have been
specially selected for the work in hand. So bad were
they, that it was at once realised that the majority
would be more certain to hamper the advance than
account for any work, and that the only thing to be
done was to retain the least unsuitable and return
the remainder to Amboina. The hundred were drawn
up in line, and the medical officers, Wollaston and
Marshall, proceeded to cast out the radically unfit.
Fifty were so disposed of, and without delay packed
into the boats and sent on board the A^ias, to be taken
back to their homes I may add, at no slight expense.
;

I mention this not in a cavilling spirit, but as a warn-

ing as to how coolie transport should not be collected

by future expeditions, and also in simple fairness to the
members as a reason why the advance into the moun-
tains was so long delayed.
The fifty coolies we had retained were entirely
ignorant of any form of river work, and had such
strong objections to entering the frail canoes, that
the boats had to be tied together in pairs before they
could be persuaded to take their places. The result
83
 RIVER NAVIGATION
of this compromise was that, however hard the crews
paddled, four or five miles was tlie utmost distance that
could be covered from sunrise to dusk. With a dozen
of these gaily dressed Malays and a few fresh natives
a second attempt was made to explore the Mimika,
Shortridge in this instance taking the place of Cramer.
The fleet looked quite imposing as it set forth, but on
the second day out half the Papuans deserted, and the
remainder on the day following, so that our men, now
that the work was thrown entirely upon their shoulders,
were compelled to take their first serious lesson in river
navigation. To give them their due, bad as they were
at the start, many of the imported coolies quickly
mastered the rudiments of successful river travel and,
as the months went by, those who survived the strain
of this arduous and continuous labour, became nearly
as proficient in paddling as the Papuans themselves.
The exploration of an unknown river is always a
matter and the Mimika, however much we
of interest,
grew to dislike the sight of the monotonous waters as
the novelty wore off, on this, the pioneer journey, was
full of fascinating charm.
Of the many rivers in this part of the country, the
Mimika is one of the smallest in fact, as we had already
;

discovered on our way up from the sea, it is but a

tributary of the Watuka, and rises in the low foot-hills,
twenty miles or more short of the main range, and sixty
to seventy miles west of Carstensz, in which mountain
we had hoped its source would be found. The size of
its mouth, out of all proportion to the amount of water
entering the sea, had deceived the Dutch three years
previously, and had induced Goodfellow, on the strength
of their report, to adopt it as our line of advance to the
interior, instead of the large and navigable Utakwa,
84

* J
 DIFFICULT NAVIGATION
lying many miles to the east. It lies at a lower alti-
tude than any of the other streams flowing to the south,
consequently its current is more sluggish, and the turns
and twists more numerous. In many places the river
doubles back upon itself to such an extent that it is
possible to stand on a narrow neck of land with the
river flowing a fcAv yards away on either hand, whilst
to bring the canoe from one place to the other, twenty
to thirty minutes' hard paddling is required. In addi-
tion to this the flow of water is most irregular and

entirely dependent on the local rainfall, being unafl'ected

in any way by what frills on the highlands of the main
range. One day a swirling torrent, the next the river
may have dwindled to the veriest trickle, forming
nothing but a series of pools joined by shallow runs.
Under ordinary conditions a launch can be navigated
for a distance of ten or twelve miles above Wakatimi,
and when the water is exceptionally high, as much as
twenty to twenty-five miles in the latter case, how-
;

ever, there is always the risk of the waters suddenly

falling and leaving the boat stranded high and dry,
without a prospect of release until a fresh flood comes
down. A more difficult river upon which to maintain
a continuous service of transport canoes it is impossible
to imagine, for when in flood poling of the boats is out
of the question, as no bottom can be found and paddles
are useless to force a way against the current, whilst, if
the water is low, the heavily-laden boats have to be
hauled along by main force, over mud and gravel slopes,
rocked over huge trunks of trees, or forced beneath
masses of tangled foliage. When, as the result of con-
tinuous rainfall, the flood is on a large scale, the whole
of the surrounding country is inundated to sucli an
extent that no ground remains exposed upon which to
85
 RIVER FLORA
camp. Nothing is to be seen but the forest on either
hand and the immediate stretch of water in front and
behind, nor does the traveller ever catch a glimpse of
the mountains to vi^hich he knows he is drawing nearer
day by day.
Upon the dank and mud-covered banks flourishes
the most dense and luxuriant vegetation imaginable,
containing specimens of almost every tree and shrub
—
to be found in the tropics Pandanus, Artocarpus, Erio-
—
dendron, Albizzia 7noluccaua Ficus of many varieties,
sago, Odomoles moluccana, and all bound into a
tangled impenetrable mass by innumerable rattans
and creepers. Although relieved now and again by
a blaze of the scarlet Mucana pruriens, the effect of
this sombre bank of dark green is anything but an
inducement to the traveller to explore the swampy
land hidden below and beyond.
The
great difficulty experienced in transporting
stores over the six stages between the base camp
and the up-river station necessitated a regular service
of canoe convoys being maintained on the Mimika
throughout our stay in New Guinea, and the deadly
monotony of the journey made this the most un-
popular of all the duties. Still there was always
something of interest to be observed in the animal
life which infested this waterway, serving to relieve

the mind from the perpetual rhythm of the paddles,

and giving one something else to watch besides the
erratic movements of the polers balancing themselves
in the bows. Alligators, though seldom of large size,
bask on the sandbanks at the bends of the river they
;

are never aggressive, and are very different in this

respect from those to be found in the rivers of Borneo
and in other parts of New Guinea. There is no doubt
86
 RIVER FAUNA
thatsome obtain to a great size. One immense creature
was seen on various occasions opj)osite Wakatimi, its
appearance stirring the hunters to but rousing
life,

no fear amongst the children splashing about in the

water the latter, in fact, looked upon it as giving an
;

additional zest to their games. Iguanas, large, hideous

and uncouth, dart from cover to cover occasionally
;

a turtle flops lazily from the mud into the water and ;

perhaps, a few yards farther on, a poisonous water-

snake is seen wriggling his way along the surface of
the stream to the shady bank where safety is to be
found. It is impossible to resist the temptation of
striking at these reptiles, for it looks as if one blow
of the paddle would kill them instantly. As a
matter of fact it is almost impossible to kill them
when swimming, and it is better to leave them in
peace when thus found, for when struck they make
straight for the canoe, and with a particularly rapid
rush try to clamber up the sides. A
poisonous snake
in a closely-packed canoe is not a pleasant companion.
At any moment on rounding a bend one may see
a pair of crown pigeons (goura), each as large as a
small turkey, their grey-blue crests opening and clos-
ing and their orange-red eyes glittering with anxiety.
They are ground feeders and eat anything, even crabs.
It is one of the most beautiful birds in existence, one
of the most foolish, and, from the point of view of the
hungry traveller, one of the most valuable. A
flash
of blue and a kingfisher darts past, a vision of exquisite
turquoise ; some species as small as a tit, others as large
as a thrush. Overhead pass a pair of hornbills, always
suspicious and always noisy, looking every moment as
if they would overbalance, so heavy and cumbersome
are their heads. These birds invariably move in pairs,
87
 BIG GAME
the black-necked female in front, the yellow-necked
male following, except in the breeding season, when
the hen isimprisoned in some hole in a tree and
there detained during the egg-hatcliing period by the
male, who, distrusting his mate's sincerity in her
work, plasters up the aperture with mud, leaving but
a small opening through which he administers food to
his hungry spouse. The whirring clouds of lories and
chattering parrots, the shrill cries of the gorgeous birds
of paradise, and the twitterings of endless other species
of birds, lend a charm to water travel which would
otherwise be insupportable in its monotony.
Now and again bigger game is encountered. Pig,
both brown and black in colour, imported into the
land centuries ago as village swine, are to be found
throughout the length and breadth of the country
running in a wild state, and strenuously hunted by
the savages the cassowary, the great black ostrich-
;

like bird with a head and neck of many colours the;

night-loving cuscus, creeping slowly from bough to

bough, brown, yellow, white, and all colours of the
—
rainbow all good for food from the point of view
of the native, and all very shy, retreating to the inner-
most recesses of the forest on the first sign of danger.
Sometimes a tree will be seen laden with flying
foxes, hanging head downwards, and the females with
their young fixed firmly to their breasts horrid, un-
;

natural-looking creatures with their slow heavy flight,

claws, and beady eyes.
Then there is the wallaby, a small prototype of the
kangaroo. Twice were they shot on the river and
brought into camp, and when being skinned were
found to have young in their pouches. One of these
babies was over 10 inches in length, but too small to
88
 WALLABY AND CUSCUS
be brought up by hand. He was perfectly formed
and uninjured, but would never have lived without the
warmth his mother could always give him. It was
pitiable to see the little creature when placed on the
ground, make dead mother and at once worry
for his
his way pouch and out of sight. The other
into her
was no bigger than a small walnut, and yet had been
born and was to be developed by the milk from the
teats which lie inside the pouch. It is a pity we never
secured one of these animals alive and uninjured, of an
age at which there was a good chance of its being
brought up alive, as with their soft fur, large brown
eyes and gentle disposition they would certainly
make the pleasantest of pets. Very different was it
with the cuscus (phalanger) captured. Nastier little
animals it is impossible to imagine. Snappish, with
jaws of steel and claws like fish-hooks, they bite when-
ever given a chance, and tear one's skin to bits.
They would never stay on the ground for a moment,
making for the first pole or tree they saw, from which
they had to be forcibly dislodged. All escaped sooner
or later, either forcing the bars of their cages or eating
their way through, and no one showed undue sorrow at
their departure.
There however, another and more disagreeable
is,

side to life on the river which almost outweighs the

pleasures to be derived from the sight of birds and
mammals. Over the dark and stagnant pools, on the
mudbanks and in the forest, hover clouds of mosquitoes,
whose ruling instinct, as we learnt to our cost, is the
quest for human blood. Fortunately for man, the
anopheles mosquito, the carrier of the malarial germ,
exists only in moderate numbers, otherwise life would
be quite insupportable. As it is, the stings and irrita-
89
 INSECT PESTS
tions of his brethren are sufficiently maddening to make
existence burdensome, though some relief is to be
obtained when halted by clearing the scrub in the near
vicinity of the camp, or at night by seeking refuge
beneath a mosquito-net.
In addition to these pests, leeches dangle from
every leaf and branch, immediately attaching them-
selves to any part of the body with which they come
in contact, and, as I veribly believe, dropping on the
wayfarer when passing beneath, attracted merely by
the scent of blood. Their bites often result in nasty
sores which, in this damp climate, do not readily
respond to doctoring, and sometimes become so bad as
to necessitate the sufferer being invalided out of the
country. So insidious is the attack of these hateful
creatures that one is often unaware of their presence
tilla stream of blood welling through the clothing
shows that one of them has been sucking blood from
a vein, in which case a bandage must be applied to stop
the bleeding.
The worst of all them
to attach them-
places for
selves is the eyeball. So
and unsuspected is
light
their attack that on several occasions two or three
crept between the eyelids without their presence
being detected, and the first intimation received was
the blurring of the vision. It is almost better when
this happens to let them have their fill of blood and

drop off" when satiated, than to remove them by force,

for less damage is done thereby to the flesh, but in
either case very severe inflammation of the eyes is

the result.
The worst of all these insect plagues, however, are
the bluebottles, which are of immense size. What
they live on is a mystery, but they exist in millions,
90
 SNAKES
attacking with ferocity any food left uncovered for
a second, and swarming in clouds upon any blanket or
discarded article of clothing, absorbed in the one idea
of finding a suitable spot on which to deposit their
eggs. The swarms appear to increase in numbers
towards sundown, when the hunt for a breeding-place
reaches its climax, and if any success has been met
with, the ova become grubs before the morning, a
never-to-be-forgotten reminder of what a moment's
forgetfulness means.
Ticks are fairly plentiful, but never quite so objec-
tionable as a certain small caterpillar which delights to
flopon to one's body from the roof, there to eject such
a pungent odour of formalin as to call for the use of
soap and much scrubbing before it can be removed.
Shall I speak of the large crickets whicli eat one's
clothes to shreds in a night ; or of the minute bees
which crawl in myriads over one's skinwhen heated
after exercise ? But no ; the long enough, and
list is

the memory of these pests recalls too many unpleasant

reminiscences to incline one to dwell on their objection-
able habits. A
nice land indeed !

To leave the insects alone and to turn to the

rather less obnoxious inhabitants of the forest, snakes
are unpleasantly numerous, even for a collector desirous
of enriching his reptile collection. Many are deadly,
but amongst these must not be included the largest,
the python. The finest python killed by us only
measured fourteen feet, and though much greater ones
doubtless exist in the island, owing to the scarcity of
large mammals it is not likely that they ever approach
in size those to be found in Borneo. Numerous as
were the poisonous varieties of snakes, there was not
one single case of snake-bite amongst our followers
91
 THE EARLY MORNING
during our stay in the country, although the men invari-
ably moved about with bare feet. This is all the more
remarkable, as the favourite sleeping-places of these
reptiles are paths made and frequented by man, and
hardly a day passes without two or three being seen
and killed on the tracks in the vicinity of the camp.
The natives showed extraordinary fearlessness in catch-
ing the poisonous specimens, grasping them behind the
head before they had time to strike, severing the head
from the body with a split piece of cane, and popping
the body into their bags for the evening meal.
It was in the early morning, when the sun's rays
firstcaught the tops of the trees that life was most
enjoyable then was the time for the forest to burst
;

forth with the music of the jungle then was the sky
;

free of cloud, while whisps of mist hung over the water

and the forest was still dark with the lingering shadows
of the night. Far rosier did life at that hour appear than
in the late hours of the afternoon when the fatigue of
the day's work was still upon one, when the rain poured
down, driven hither and thither by the eddying gusts
of wind, and when, in addition, the discomfort of un-
lightable fires and sodden baggage tended to make one
feel despondent and depressed. Still, it is impossible

to have the sweet without the bitter, and this our first
trip into the unknown interior will remain for ever
stamped in our memories.
On the fourth and fifth day out we struggled along
as best we could, each one taking his turn with pole
or paddle, heaving the boats over sunken logs and
shoals, or carrying them bodily round the worst obstacles.
This, however, was the last day during which we were
to labour without help or guidance, for early the next
morning, when we were at breakfast, a can6e-load of
92
— o
z -I

— a
 A DAY OF SURPRISES
Papuans suddenly swept round a bend, and in a
moment had grounded their boat close at hand.
Though noticeably nervous, it was evident that they
had been warned of our approach, and had grasped the
fact that our intentions were not hostile, for, after a
little coaxing, they settled down by our fires and joined

in the meal, all the time urging us to make haste on

the next stage.
The morning was to be full of surprises. Two
miles farther on, when we were still thinking how
was to be poled up the river
infinitely pleasanter it
than to have to do the work oneself, a band of women,
whose sole coverings were girdles of leaves plucked
from the undergrowth, burst forth from the forest, and
raced over a mud flat towards us, uttering weird and
discordant cries. Choosing the muddiest spot, they
flung themselves headlong into the filth, and, still

maintaining the chorus of wild yells, rolled over and

over, smearing the slime over their faces and into their
hair. Having made themselves perfectly repulsive to
our eyes, they fell a-dancing, evidently with the object
of captivating our affections, but just as they were
reaching the highest pitch of excitement, a signal from
the men brought them to a dead stop. Complete
silence ensued, and then all, men and women alike,
standing quite still, placed their hands over their eyes
and burst into tears. Such agonised weeping and such
heart-breaking wails it has never been my lot to listen
to before or since. One moment there would be a
succession of gasping sobs, to be followed by a series of
ear-piercing the bodily and mental exertion
shrieks,
being so great as to cause the tears to pour down their
cheeks, and great beads of perspiration to stand out on
their bodies.
93
 AN EXTRAORDINARY WELCOME
Amazed uncomplimentary outburst of sor-
at this
row on our first meeting with the feminine section of
whatever tribe it was we were approaching, we tried,
with consoling phrases and reassuring gestures, to per-
suade the boatmen to again take to their work in the
canoes, only to carry us out of earshot of this
if

pandemonium. We
might as well not have been there
for all the attention they paid to our entreaties, and
the grief, instead of wearing itself out, only seemed to
gain in vigour as the minutes passed by. Suddenly
the demonstration ceased. Without a word of excuse
or of explanation, without even troubling to wipe the
tears from their cheeks, they seized their poles and
demeanour as peaceful
started the canoes afresh, with a
and unconcerned as if what they had just been doing
was the most natural and ordinary thing possible. The
women washed themselves, removed the leaves, and
replaced the bark cloth, and, once again rational beings,
entered two huts, the habitations we had seen since
first

leaving Wakatimi. was a great relief to find that

It
the women were to accompany us no farther, for one
dose of the astonishing form of welcome which we had
just witnessed was quite enough for the day, and as
long as they were with us there was no knowing when
the spirit might move them to repeat the experiment.^

^ The shedding welcome has been reported among the natives

of tears in
of America, as also with the Andamanese and other negroid races.

94
 CHAPTER VII

—
Parimau— Single combat Treatment of wives— Towards the hills Forest —
— —
growth Woodcraft— The Kapare Preparing for an attack— Nego-
tiating — Panic — Wild scenery — Difficulties with coolies — Friendly
villages — Difficult canoeing — Eain — Short rations

ON the seventh day after leaving Wakatimi we

reached Parimau, a collection of some twenty-five
huts, and the most important place on the upper
reaches of the Mimika River. The village was
situated in a clearing of about an acre in extent, and,
as we thoughtat the time, on a spot safe from all pos-
siblechance of inundation. I say " was situated," for
unfortunately both land and village were swept out of
existence by floods later on in the year. On the beach
our camp was pitched and a house erected. This was
only a temporary measure, for, as soon as a clearing
had been made on the opposite or right bank of the
river, other and more substantial huts were run up by
the Gurkhas well above both the native village and
the ordinary level of the river.
Whilst we remained here fresh parties of natives
arrived daily from the east to new-
inspect the
comers. The women, very shy and diffident, were led
round by the hand by their Parimau friends, who from the
moment of our arrival had come to look upon us as their
own personal property. Tlie new-comers brought their
own food along with them, as well as presents for their
were received with open arms. There
hosts, so at first
was much kissing amongst the men, but little notice
95
 SINGLE COMBAT
taken of the women, who seemed quite content to
stand aside until their lords and masters deigned to
notice them.
No empty huts being available, this influx led to
much overcrowding, with the result that brawls and
fights were continually breaking out, and blood was
freely shed on many occasions. The popular weapon
was the stone club, made out of coral, limestone, or
sandstone rock, and with this dangerous instrument the
most violent blows were given and received, though
every care was taken to avoid striking the head. When
a single combat was in progress a certain amount of
etiquette was shown, each combatant in turn striking
his or her opponent a resounding blow across the back ;

no flinching was allowed, and the fight continued till one

or the other had had enough. During the fight an
appalling din prevailed, both combatants and spectators
venting their feelings in howls of rage and yells of
abuse. The more peaceably inclined would sometimes
terminate these fights by surrounding the actors so
closely as to put an end to further hostilities. Now
and again a woman (never a man) would be felled to
the ground when a bad shot was made and the head
struck by accident, but when such an event occurred
no one considered it his or her business to proffer aid,
and there the unfortunate woman would remain insen-
sible and streaming with blood until she had recovered
sufficiently to crawl to her hut.
Both up- and down-river natives treat their wives
with the greatest brutality. This consistent ill-treat-
ment seemed to us all the more extraordinary, for,
apart from any question of affection, one would have
thought that it was the husband's interest to protect
—
and care for his breadwinner in short, his slave, on
96
 TREATMENT OF WIVES
whom he was dependent for every comfort. Such was
not the ease. For instance, from the camp at Waka-
timi, Wollaston on one occasion witnessed the attempted
drowning of a woman who had in some way incurred
the anger of her husband. In full view of all who
cared to look, the young wife was dragged by the
husband and his elder wife to the water's edge and
there thrown in. Despite her struggles, a small fishing-
net, bound to a circle of bamboo, was flung over her,
and upon the ends of this the two seated themselves,
effectively keeping the girl under water. She would
certainly have been drowned had not Wollaston
shouted across, and, seizing his rifle, threatened to
shoot, upon which the two executioners unwillingly
released their victim. The wretched creature dragged
herself on to the bank, and there remained in a state
of collapse until she had sufficiently recovered to crawl
back to her happy home. Whilst this drama was
being enacted none of the savages paid the slightest
attention or raised a finger to prevent the attempted
murder, though it was being carried out in full view
of the whole village.
During the intervals when the natives of Parimiau
and their guests were not engaged in brawling, we did
our best to make them understand that we were anxious
to enter the hills, of which, up to the present, we had
gained no information. As soon as they had grasped
what was required, numerous volunteers stepped forward
ready to show the way and carry the baggage.
Accompanied by two Gurkhas and a dozen Papuans,
I set forth on the 26th January, following the one and

only way said to exist. The track was in an abominable

condition, so badly defined and so obstructed with
cacti that the greater part of the day was spent in

97 G
 FOREST GROWTH
cutting a way throughthe four miles of forest that lay
between us and the first large river encountered.
It is quite impossible for anyone who has not visited
these parts of New Guinea to realise the density of the
forest growth. The vegetation, through which
only
the scantiest glimpses of the sky can be obtained,
appears to form as it were two great horizontal strata.
The first comprises the giant trees whose topmost
boughs are one hundred and fifty feet or more above
the ground the other, the bushes, shrubs, and trees of
;

lesser growth, which never attain a greater height than

thirty to forty feet. Such is the richness of the soil
that not one square foot remains untenanted, and the
never-ending struggle to reach upwards towards the
longed-for light goes on silently and relentlessly.
Creepers and parasites in endless variety cling to every
stem, slowly but surely throttling their hosts. From
tree to tree their tentacles stretch out, seizing on to
the first projecting branch and limb, and forming
such a close and tangled mass that the dead and dying
giants of the forest are prevented from falling to the
ground.
Through this boundless labyrinth of tangled growth
the native is obliged to force his way when once he has

leftthe safe and familiar river banks. The experience

of countless centuries has taught him to dread the
treacherous paths and deceptive openings into which
many of his ancestors must have strayed and perished ;

and now, when in the forest, he never omits to form a

trail by half breaking the young shoots on either hand
as he goes along. The stems thus treated do not die,
and in their reversed position faintly mark the way for
many years. This is a practice which the white men
should invariably adopt when moving in a tropical
98
 THE KAPAR^.
forest without knife or kukrie, for he can never tell
when his life may depend upon the distinctness of the
trail he leaves behind him. The various devices recom-
mended in the books of one's childhood, and it may be
added in learned books as well, whereby the traveller is
enabled to recover a lost trail or regain the right direc-
tion, are here of no avail. For instance, moss does not
grow more on one side of a tree-trunk than on the
other trees do not lean away from the prevailing
;

wind, nor the position of the sun a guide, for it is

is

seldom visible. In fact the traveller has nothing to

rely upon but the compass or a local guide, and even
the latter is often at fault. Hopeless indeed does the
outlook appear when the wanderer, hedged in by a
wall of scrub and creeper which limits his vision to a
distance of ten or twelve yards, realises that he has
lost his bearings ; when the vastness of the forest seems
to press upon him, and thereno sound to be heard
is

but the drip, drip of the water-laden trees, and the

bubbling of the stinking bog under foot. His only
chance of escape is to find a stream and follow it down
till it main river.
joins a
But to return from these cheerful considerations to
our journey from Parimau. It was late in the after-
noon when we debouched upon the stony bed of a
great river, to our guides as the Kapare. From
known
this point agrand view of the mountains was obtained,
stretching from a point due north of us till they faded
away in the dull haze to the west. The natives
insisted upon camping at once, for fishing grounds,
and consequently food, were close at hand. A
sufficientsupply of fish having been obtained, we
turned in early to sleep. Nothing could have been
more peaceful than the quiet, closely-packed camp, the
99
 PREPARING FOR AN ATTACK
two tents and the two flimsy shelters of the Papuans
forming a small square.
It must have been nearly an hour after we had turned
into our blankets that I was suddenly awakened by the
sound of men running, and springing up was just in
time to catch a fleeting glimpse of the natives tumbling
A
out of their huts and bolting into the forest. Gurkha,
who had awakened at the same time, instinctively
rushed at and attempted to seize the last two, but
the slippery body of a naked Papuan is not an easy
thing to hold, and with a fierce wrench of the arm they
broke loose and vanished like the rest. Not a man
remained.
Our first thought w^as for our own safet5^
If the natives contemplated an attack we were in a
bad position to meet it, and too close to the jungle, so
picking up the guns and blankets, and leaving every-
thing else as it was, we moved without loss of time out
into the open river bed, and there awaited the upshot
of this peculiar affair. The forest was as silent as the
grave.
For an hour we remained on the qui vive and ready
for any emergency, turning over in our minds every
incident of the afternoon, to find some reason for this
desertion, but in vain. AVhither had they vanished ?
Were they stalking us, or were they still fleeing ?
Still not a sound broke the silence of the forest.
The night became chilly and the stones uncomfort-
ably hard, so eventually it was decided that one man
should keep a look-out while the remainder slept. An
uncomfortable hour went slowly by, for neither the posi-
tion nor the occasion were conducive to sound slumber.
Fatigue at length obtained the mastery, and I passed
into the land of dreams ; but hardly had I dosed off
100
 NEGOTIATING
than a light touch on the shoulder by the sentry drew
my attention to numerous dark spots barely distinguish-
able in the reeds along the river banks, spots which
certainly had not been there an hour before.
Straining our eyes to the utmost it was impossible
for several minutes to make out what they were, but
w^hen one vanished, it was very easy to guess that eacli
of the other black spots carried two eyes, and that our
savage friends were spying out the land.
A forward movement on our part now seemed to
be called for, so standing up I gave a loud hail. The
result was the instantaneous disappearance of all the
spots. So far so good ; it had had some effect, and as
the result of further calls, in five minutes' time a spot
again appeared, to be followed shortly afterwards by a
larger patch denoting the rising of a body. Then came
an answering hail, and in such an encouraging tone
that I felt constrained to approach. The figure did
likewise, and so we advanced, first one then the other,
both sides meanwhile keeping up a flow of talk in our
respective languages. As we drew near I recognised
the approaching figure to be that of a man who had on
one or two occasions gone out shooting with me, and
whom, in my present state of mind, I promptly started
to abuse. He was quite ready to discuss matters, but
as neither of us understood the other, and as each
seemed to have some grievance, the only sensible
course to follow was to forget the past and again be
friends. Quickly both sides collected on the debating-
ground and tried to relieve their feelings in a babel of
talk, the Papuans ending up with the first few bars of
the terrible wailing wdth which we had been assailed
when coming up the Mimika. This, so close at hand,
and in the dead of night, was unbearable, and had to
101
 PANIC
be stopped, much to their disappointment. Everything
having been satisfactorily arranged, we moved back to
the deserted camp and there passed the remainder of
the night in peace and quiet, the natives in their huts
and we in our tents.
As time went on and we got to know the Papuans
better, it was reahsed that these sudden desertions,
which sometimes amount to a panic-stricken rush, are
more probably due to fear of some kind than to hostile
motives, or any desire to place the stranger in an
awkward position. Desertions occurred on several
other occasions, but this was the only time that any
anxiety was felt as to the possibility of an attack being
made. To this day I have not been able to find out
what was in their minds or what caused the sudden
flight to the jungle. Had it taken place in the day-
time, or had they gone off in a stealthy manner, it
might have been explained, but to do so in the dead
of night, when the camp is peacefully asleep, can only
be accounted for by a sudden grip of superstitious
fear.
Though little by the occurrences of the
affected
past night, the Papuans refused to continue the march
upstream, the next day being spent in reconnoitring
the country to the north.
Fifteen miles distant lay a saddle-backed mountain
about 7500 feet high, with almost precipitous sides and
knife-edged ridges running in all directions, the whole
covered with the densest vegetation. To the west
stretched other wild and rugged hills, divided from the
first mountain by the gorge of the Kapare. Far up
the valley glimpses were obtained of an immense preci-
pice running east and west, a sheer perpendicular wall
of rock, bare of vegetation and black in colour.
102
 DIFFICULTIES WITH COOLIES
As no more information was to be obtained by
waiting here under these conditions, I returned to
Parimau and reported to Goodfellow what had been
found, and discussed with him the chances of finding
a way into the hills by this route. As a result it was
decided to send a reconnoitring party from Wakatimi
up the Kapare, the mouth of which had been passed
on our way from the sea, with the object of discovering
whether that river was navigable for canoes up to the
point where I had come out on its banks, and whether
it offered many advantages over the Mimika as a
permanent line of advance inland.
Goodfellow accordingly returned to Wakatimi on
9th February in order to despatch this party and to
explain to those at the base camp how matters stood,
while I again crossed to the Kapare to prepare a path
towards the mountains and to await the arrival of the
exploring party, should they be able to work a way up
the new river. Unfortunately, on reaching Wakatimi,
he learnt that the whole of the imported coolies, whom
he had engaged for a period of six weeks only, had, on
the arrival of a visiting ship, insisted upon the fulfil-
ment of the letter of the law, and demanded to be
returned at once to their homes. The few remaining
carriers who, owing to their having been detained up
the river, found themselves too late to depart by the
steamer, were now the only men left to carry on the
work. By the next relief ship Goodfellow sailed for
Amboina, in order to recruit a fresh batch of men from
the nearer islands of the Archipelago, and with him
went the remainer of the men, not one of whom could
be induced by any amount of bribes to stay a day over
the contract time.
Whilst Goodfellow was away on this business,
103
 FRIENDLY VILLAGERS
INIarshall,W^oUaston, and Cramer, with a scratch crew
of soldiers, convicts, and Papuans, started out on their
exploration of the Kapare. Within two miles of the
junction with the Mimika the vegetation changed from
the dense jungle of mangrove trees to flourishing sago
swamps and banana plantations. The first night was
spent at Obota, a large village of not less than three
hundred inhabitants, who were quite friendly and well-
disposed to the strangers. Like the villagers previously
encountered, they were bent upon trade, and delighted
to find that they had here a good market for their
tobacco and bananas, which grew abundantly in the
locality. In one of the houses, amongst other treasures,
an old brass gong was displayed, and a most incongruous
object it appeared, being the one product of civilisation
which had as yet arrived at this uncivilised spot.
The Obota was then in flood, and so ignorant were
the soldiers of river work that all attempts to make
further progress against the strong current failed
ignominiously, the canoes careering madly from bank
to bank, and finally coming to rest in a backwater at a
point considerably lower down-stream than where they
started. Thenatives, fearing that a disaster might
occur, which would have been greatly to their dis-
advantage, quickly came to the rescue, and after a
good deal of discussion consented to accompany the
party if two other canoes were engaged and the loads
in the original ones reduced. These men proved them-
selves excellent workers, and remained throughout the
journey, becoming great friends with our men. Having
circumvented the rapids just above Obota, by following
a winding jungle creek which joined the main river
again tliree hundred yards farther up, it was found neces-
sary to hug the banks closely in order to avoid the main
104
 RAIN
force of the current. Two miles beyond this point the
Kapare began to widen, forming a perfect river for
navigation, and admirably suited for a launch. The
river here bifurcated, the larger branch being known
at its mouth as the Periepia. As further progress was
made the Kapare, flowing between low and swampy
banks infested with mosquitoes, continued to widen
until it was the general opinion that no difficulty
would be experienced in penetrating direct into the
mountains. On the sixth day out, however, these hopes
were shattered, any further advance upstream being
absolutely barred by a combination of shoals and rapids.
They were then only five miles from the point where I
was awaiting them, but there was nothing for it but to
abandon this line of advance and to return dejected to
Wakatimi.
During the time this journey was in progress
I, together with three Gurkhas, had moved another

three miles up the Kapare, a fishing party of natives

having been pressed into the work of carrying the
loads, though not accomplished without much bribery
and endless coaxing. Beyond this point they refused
to move another step, so a rough but substantial
hut was built ready to take any stores which might
arrive in the near future, four miles of road cleared, and
a certain amount of survey work completed. This was
much hindered by the daily downfall of rain, which not
only flooded the camping ground but rendered the
river and brooks unfordable for hours at a time.
By converting the empty map tin into a rain guage
I was enabled to calculate fairly accurately the average
rainfall for twenty-four hours. The heaviest registered
was 4|^ inches, the lightest H and the average
inches,
for two weeks showed 2j inches per day this, be it
;

105
 SHORT RATIONS
remembered, was one of the dry seasons of the year
Day after day we pegged away at the work, always
hoping that the next morning we should hear the wel-
come sound of the approach either of the party moving
up the Kapare, or of another relief expedition from
Parimau, until at length the stores came to an end.
A man despatched to Parimau, where Shortridge was
still encamped, returned with the information that

no boat or supplies had arrived from Wakatimi, and

that Shortridge himself was in an equally serious
plight from want of food. Following close behind
came Shortridge himself carrying his last three days'
rations, and which we eked out as long as possible,
as it is more economical to feed two men together
than when separated.
As was nothing to gain by returning to
there
Parimau, even had we wished to do so, in its present
depleted condition, and as no carriers were available,
we were forced to subsist entirely upon what the forest
could provide, and taking it all together a poorer
country I have never yet found. Of edible vegetable
matter there was none, and of flesh we could obtain
nothing but the hornbill. These birds consist of head
and neck, and the smallest and toughest of bodies
imaginable, but we blessed their existence all the same.
Crown pigeons, which would have provided a good
square meal, must have known that we were on the
warpath, for only a couple were to be seen, and these
would certainly have been bagged had not the excite-
ment of the stalk and the knowledge that our supper
depended upon a successful shot caused the premature
discharge of the gun. Nevertheless, though food was
scarce and life not altogether a bed of roses, there was
plenty of hard work, which made time pass quickly
106
 SHORT RATIONS
and enabled us to forget the material privations of our
situation. During this hungry period another hunting
party of Papuans arrived upon the scene, and every
blandishment was employed to persuade them to assist
in moving the camp to fresh pastures where animal
life was more plentiful. It was during one of these
attempts at an advance that a most valuable discovery
was made.

107
 CHAPTER VIII

Unpleasant work— Chasing pygmies — Captured pygmies — Pygmy equip-

— —
ment — Primitive methods Pygmy history Penetrating the mountains
— — —
Stalking human game Brave pygmies Land of the pygmies
—
Attempts to penetrate the country The home of the pygmies Fresh—
line of advance

spite of our efforts nothing would induce the

all
INPapuans to transport the camp a few miles further
up-stream, and matters reached such an impasse that I
was finally forced to adopt the role of carrier myself,
hoping by means that they might be shamed into
this
shouldering the loads. It was not an edifying sight,
the white man carrying the burden and the savages
following in a sullen line behind, and the physical
effort of bearing a heavy load through the steaming
jungle made the experiment a distinctly unpleasant
one ; it had the effect, however, of bringing the whole
party along, for they were consumed with curiosity as
to where Iwould go and what I would do.
In this uncomfortable manner we were slowly
making our way up the river bed when, with a guttural
cry of " Wah," the savage immediately following me
dashed past at full speed. The yell acted like magic.
The sulky line was in a moment galvanised into life,
and the men who had been so tired that it seemed to
be an effort to place one foot before the other, taking
up the QYj, raced off in pursuit over the stones and
into the jungle. As this new move at any rate
promised excitement and the pleasures of the chase, I
108
 CHASING PYGMIES
dropped my load, and with visions of pork before my
eyes girded up my loins and pounded along in rear.
Partly influenced by the fact that the savages were
rapidly leaving me behind, I cast around in an attempt
to find the animal's spoor before entering the jungle.
What was my surprise to discover men's footprints
instead of the marks of pig as I had expected, and to
see the sand torn up where they had evidently turned
and bolted for cover. This being a form of sport in
which I did not desire to take part, I sat down to
await events and to listen to the sounds of the chase as
it passed away
into the forest.
Whocould the enemy be, and why this sudden
show of hostility ? Could it be some men of a tribe
with w^hom our friendly natives had been at war, or
possibly some delinquent or runaway of their own
people ? I was not to be left long in doubt. Before
many minutes had passed the excited voices of the men
could be heard as they drew near, and then from the
forest there emerged a confused mass of savages, in the
centre of which, held firmlyby the arms and driven
forward by sundry proddings behind, were two small
naked men differing in appearance from any we had
hitherto seen. They were taking their capture in any-
thing but a kindly and despite the fact that they
spirit,
were outnumbered by five to one, put up sufficient
fight to engage the united attentions of their big framed
brethren.
When the party reached the place where I stood
the captives were released, but as they had by then
arrived at the stage when
and exhaustion renders
fear
vigorous action an impossibility, they could do no
more than maintain their position on the tree-trunk
upon which they were placed and with their eyes glued
109
 PYGMY EQUIPMENT
to the ground. From their point of view there was
good reason to fear tlie worst. Were they not in the
hands of their enemies, and in the presence of a man of
another pale-faced race of whose existence they had up
to now been in complete ignorance ? In addition to
this, had they not been deprived of their bows and
arrows, their grass helmets and their bags of precious
odds and ends, all of which were now being handed
round before their eyes and distributed piece by piece ?
As a preliminary to any friendly advances I insisted
first of all upon the stolen articles, even down to the

bows and arrows, being collected and returned to their

rightful owners, much to the disgust of the captors, who
evidently looked upon the loot as their just reward.
Reassured by this unexpected treatment the prisoners
quickly gained their wits, and went so far as to allow a
faint smile to spread across their features when a few
bright- coloured beads were placed in their grimy paws.
The capture was of such absorbing interest that we
decided to postpone any further advance till the next
day, and returning to the old camp were enabled to
examine our prisoners more closely.
They were of good proportions, strong and wiry,
without any signs of deformity or dwarfishness, and in
colour a dark chocolate. When walking with the
finely-developed men of the Parimau tribe, their small
size was very noticeable, the former averaging about
five feet six to seven inches, whilst the new-comers, as
we were to find in camp, barely reached four feet seven
inches in height. They proved to be members of a
mountain tribe known by the name of Tapiro, living
on the lower slopes of the mountains where, we were
informed, their villages and plantations lay. Hearing
of our arrival, or perhaps having seen our tents from
110
 PRIMITIVE METHODS
above, they had come to spy out the land and had been
captured in the attempt. To make matters worse, they
had been caught trespassing in a district into which
they were not permitted to enter. Their dress con-
sisted of a grass helmet with upright rims, and a pro-
jection at the crowninto which a bird of paradise
plume could be inserted. Over one shoulder was
suspended a string bag containing a collection of fishing-
tackle and fire-sticks these, together with a hollow
;

bright yellow gourd some fifteen inches long, worn as

pubic clothing with the narrow and closed end point-
ing upwards, and held in position by a string fastened
round the waist, formed their complete outfit.
If we were to penetrate into the hills by the route
we were following, it was most necessary to be on the
best terms with this tribe. In order, therefore, that
they might carry a good report to their village as to
how they had been treated, the prisoners were given
a few more odds and ends and told that they were free
to depart. The older man of the two left hurriedly,
and in a few moments was swallowed up by the jungle,
but the younger stayed on and remained with us for a
—
couple of days this apparently by order of the plains-
men, for he worked and carried wood for them during
his stay. Then he likewise vanished, and for some
months was seen no more.
In the latter stages of the expedition, when we got
to know him better, this man proved to be the most
intelligent member of his tribe, and acted as our
regular go-between during the visits we subsequently
made to the mountain home of the Tapiros.
That evening he showed us how to make fire. Two
—
implements were required a stick of hard wood and a
length of split rattan. A cleft was made in the stick,
111
 w^
PYGMY HISTORY
into which a stone was forced so as to keep the sides
apart. Then, having placed one end of the stick
beneath his foot and the other over a bunch of dried
leaves, he passed the rattan rope beneath the cleft
stick, and grasping it with his hands, worked it rapidly
backwards and forwards till the friction, engendered by
the rattan against the sharp edge of the stick, produced
ignition. The smouldering leaves were then blown
into a flame. Interested by this somewhat deliberate
process of making fire, I thought he would be delighted
with the simplicity of the common match. The effect
was disappointing as, after one gasp of surprise and a
grunt of disapproval, he not only refused to accept the
box as a present, but walked hurriedly away when the
experiment was about to be repeated.
Owing to our very slight knowledge of the language
of the plainsmen at that time it was exceedingly diffi-
cult to obtain any information as to the numbers and
habits of these small men of the Tapiro tribe. I per-
force had to speak in English and in the language of
signs. The plainsmen tried to interpret, but every
time that I failed to grasp the meaning they resorted
to the usual native expedient of shouting the same
words in a louder tone and as the whole party talked
;

at the same time, the cross-examination, though inte-

resting, was not conducive to obtaining the information
required.
I was soon to obtain a further insight into the life
history of these small men, fully confirming my view
that a hitherto unknown race of pygmies had been dis-
—
covered men who for countless ages had lived and
died in the midst of the densest forest and in the fast-
nesses of the mountains. My impression at the time
was that they were probably the descendants of scat-
112
 Pygmies Making Fire
I. By friction causing the wood to smoulder.
2 and 3. Blowing the smouldering embers into a flame
 PYGMY HISTORY
tered families of the indigenous tribes driven into those
inhospitable regions many centuries ago by more power-
ful or invading races who had settled on the coast.
Time and hardship had left their mark on the weaker
race. Generation had succeeded generation subsisting
on the scanty supplies of food which were only to be
obtained by never-ending labour, with the result that
physically they had much diminished in size, though
still remaining wiry and agile. The chase was the very
essence of their being, and with it they had acquired
the stealthy movement and ever watchful glances of
the hunter. The fact that they seldom see the sun
owing to their homes being in the dense hillside forest,
and to there being no broad rivers in the country, on
the banks of which they can bask and absorb the solar
warmth, may account for the fact that they are slightly
fairer in colour than the plainsmen. It was thus that
I accounted for the existence of this hitherto unknown

race of diminutive men, but although these assumptions

may appear reasonable enough to the lay mind, they
are not generally accepted by scientists, and I must
leave it to those more versed in anthropology than
myself to account for their origin and peculiar physical
characteristics.^
Onthe day after our meeting with the Tapiros the
Papuans abandoned their stubborn mood and consented
to transport the camp to a spot three miles up-stream
from few more miles of the river were ex-
this point a
plored. was on the third day that the first determined
It
attempt was made to penetrate into the mountains.
Long before there was any sign of light in the east
we were astir and ready to set out, but, early as it was,
our movements did not escape the ever-watchful eyes
1 See Chapter XIX.
113 H
 PENETRATING THE MOUNTAINS
of tlie natives camping They were soon
close at hand.
clustering round, wanting to know where we were bound
for and what we were going to seek, and when they
understood that we intended to enter the hills, expressed
their intention of joining the party. To this we agreed,
and a start was made. As the water was low a good
rate of speed was maintained along the river bed, until
we were obliged to enter the forest by a path lying
some hundred yards back from the Kapare, and entirely
invisible to any eyes but those of a native. After fol-
lowing the track for about a mile we again struck the
river bank. In this region of the foothills the waters
of the Kapare were now tumbling along in surging
masses of foam.
was at this point that I happened casually to
It
glance down-stream, and noticed the figures of two
men nearly one hundred and fifty yards away under the
opposite bank, with their backs towards us. Very
naturally I pointed them out to the rest of the party.
Instinctively the men with me halted and sank to
earth, and, in a moment, had concocted their plan of
action the execution was one of the sharpest bits of
;

patrol work I have ever witnessed. In less time than

it takes to tell, six of them vanished like ghosts along

the path by which we had just come, whilst the

remainder slipped noiselessly into the water, and,
spreading out, swam down stream at racing speed over
the tumbling rapids. Fast as they approached their
quarry, they were no faster than those who were
moving through the forest, and, little as I desired
forcible methods of capture, it was impossible not to
admire the sight of savage stalking savage. Thirty
yards now divided the hunters from their quarry the ;

roar of the waters drowned every sound. Suddenly

114
 BRAVE PYGMIES
the jungle party broke out of tlie forest and dashed
headlong into the river. The pursued, now for tlie
first time aware of their danger, made a wild rush for

the opposite bank, but it was too late. The river party
was upon them in a moment. So complete was the
surprise that an appeal to bows and arrows was out of
the question, but in spite of this they put up with their
fists one of the prettiest fights imaginable. Standing-
breast high in the torrent, they struggled manfully to
escape, and, despite the fact that they were out-
numbered by six to one, held their own for a consider-
able time. As they were being badly buffeted, I
hurried to a point on the bank opposite and, holding
up both hands, shouted and beckoned for them to come
to me. These peaceful overtures had no effect, and
they continued their struggles fight as they would,
;

however, weight told at last, and they were dragged

before me breathless from and in a state
their exertions,
of complete nudity, their gourds having been pulled
off, their bags removed, and their bows, and arrows

wrenched away.
They were both bearded, and in age might have
been anything between twenty and twenty-five, as
well-proportioned and as muscular as those who had
been captured a few days previously. Despite their
protests, I measured them then and there as well as
was possible, and found them to be four feet five inches
and four feet six inches respectively. Like the others,
they were too frightened to speak or make any other
sound than a quick indrawing of the breath a kind of —
hiss, this being their only reply to the numerous ques-

tions hurled at them by the captors. Their belongings

were dealt with in the same way as in the case of the
earlier prisoners, everything being collected and
115
 LAND OF THE PYGMIES
returned to them. They were then offered the "pipe
of peace " in the form of a cigarette, but though they
sat down and smoked their own tobacco they were far
too suspicious to have anything to do with mine. A
few blue beads, however, worked wonders, their eyes
literally glistening at the sight. The discussion which
followed was to me uninteresting, as only one of the
little men could make himself understood to the plains-
men, and I, for my understand neither one
part, could
side nor the other. Precious time was being wasted
over this conversation, so they were told to rejoin the
party and come with us to the mountains.
A mile farther on we struck a beautiful crystal
stream running from the east, which, as we afterwards
learnt, formed the boundary line between the land of
the pygmies and that of the plainsmen. Beyond this
point the men refused to go, or even to show us the
path, and the two Gurkhas and I were compelled to
proceed alone. Following some marks on the rocks,
before long we struck a small jungle path, so narrow
and heavily overgrown that though, perhaps, suitable
for a pygmy, it was a matter of difficulty for the ordi-
nary-sized man, such as a large-limbed plainsman, to
pass along with any speed. For an hour and a half we
moved steadily forward, the path all the while rising
rapidly, until, at last, we entered such a labyrinth of
ravines and nullahs that further progress became im-
possible. A deathlike stillness reigned everywhere
not even a bird or a reptile was to be seen. Few hours
of daylight remained, and as the trail had entirely dis-
appeared, and we had no knowledge of the position or
of what lay ahead, the quest was abandoned, and we
retraced our steps. At the crystal stream all was silent
—
and deserted the men, big and little, had vanished,
116
 I'VG.MIES OI" THE TaPIRO TrIDE
1. Wearing the mandible of the hornbill to produce a fierce expression.
split
2. One of the oldest men of the tribe and a grea obstructionist.
3. The keenest trader. Bone ornaments through the septum of the nose.
4. One of the crowd.
 PENETRATING THE COUNTRY
tired, 1 suppose, of awaiting our return. And so
ended our first attempt to track the pygmies to their
village.
On the journey back to camp a further discovery
was made, for, whilst examining with my glasses tlie
ground over which we had advanced, I was able to see
distinctly the edge of a forest clearing far up the moun-
tain side. It had the appearance of being cultivated,
and was, therefore, likely to be in the near vicinity of
the pygmies' mountain home, and the source from
whence they obtained their daily sustenance. This
further discovery made us all the more determined to
penetrate into the mountainous country, and to examine
in greater detail the weird and interesting race which
had been so unexpectedly brought to light.
Two days later another attempt to reach the clear-
ing led to no better results. After hours of clambering
over rough ground and through dense undergrowth,
our spirits every now and again buoyed up by a faint
trail of a moss-covered rock which had apparently been
worn by the foot of man, we again arrived in a trackless
labyrinth of deep ravines. The quest seemed hopeless,
and we returned dispirited to camp. WoUaston, how-
ever, now arrived on the scene, bringing fresh stores,
and together we thought out new schemes for an
advance.
A third attack was made on what I had almost
begun to believe was the mythical home of the pygmies,
and this too ended in failure. Had it not been for
distinct signs of felled trees upon the clearing we
should have been tempted to give up the quest as
hopeless. We determined, however, not to be beaten,
and at last perseverance was rewarded.
The next day a fresh start was made, but after
117
 THE HOME OF THE PYGMIES
climbing for six hours without a break, the last part
of the way being along a faintly-marked trail, a con-
sultation was held and it was decided to return to
camp. We had followed similar trails on other occa-
sions without any result, and had now lost confidence
in them. However, a Gurkha, Pulman by name,
was most adverse to going back, declaring confidently
that within an hour we were bound to find the
long-sought-for goal. His persuasive appeals deter-
mined us to persevere, for we all felt that another
day's tramp was no more likely to bring us nearer
our quest than we were at that present moment.
Scarcely had another furlong been covered when, to
our surprise and delight, the forest grew thinner,
and we found ourselves on the edge of the clearing
which we had so long desired to reach and there,
;

peering at us from underneath a leafy shelter, was

one of the same men whom we had captured a week
before.
He might have been a statue for all the welcome
he vouchsafed us, but that there was life in his body
was evident by the penetrating yodelling which burst
—
from his lungs doubtless a signal to bring the other
tribesmen to his assistance. Hurrying forward, we
were able to take up a good position on the cultivated
ground before reinforcements began to arrive. Up
they came, one after anotlier, till eight little men were
collected in a bunch, all much excited and panting
from their hurried advance. They apparently were of
opinion that still more help was required, or it may
have been to warn their female relatives, but each
as he arrived joined in the warning cry. No other
pygmies put in an appearance, so, though rather dis-
appointed at not seeing a greater number of them, we
118
 THE HOME OF THE PYGMIES
had to be content with examining the few who were
present.
They were truculent, unsociable souls, retreating
on any attempt to draw near, and holding their bows
and arrows ready for instant use. Though varying
somewhat in size and build, on account of the simi-
larity of their get-up they bore an extraordinary resem-
blance to one another. As we were afterwards to visit
their habitations when many were collected together,
I will defer a description of their peculiar costume
till then. Conversation was at a discount, for at this
date our stock of the plainsmen's language was limited,
and what few words we knew failed to convey any
meaning to the minds of our hosts. We had recourse
to the primitive plan of barter as a means of quieting
their suspicions, and were so far successful that several
arrows were exchanged for beads, an article of com-
merce they were quite unable to resist. Even this
restricted amount of trade was only carried through
with the aid of our former captive and at arm's length
— a very unsatisfactory way of doing business.
The clearing in which we stood could have been
little than 120 acres in extent, although at this
less
only a limited portion was visible from where
first visit

we were. It was closely cultivated, with a mixed

crop of taro and sweet potato, but much broken by
fallen trees. No huts, with the exception of one leafy
shelter,were to be seen, nor were there any signs of
habitation or smoke to show where the remainder
of the tribe had their dwelling-places, but that a
numerous colony existed close by was evident from
the extent of the cultivated land, which could pro-
duce enough to feed one lumdred or more people all
the year round. Mighty tree-trunks lay scattered
119
 THE HOME OF THE PYGMIES
over the slope, some few showing signs of having
been felled by fire. In the majority of cases a close
examination of the roots showed that some small
instrument had been used in the felling. Inquiries
proved such to be the case, and the identical weapon
which had been employed was produced, namely an
extremely small axe, the head three inches in length
and 1| inches in width, made of the softest iron it—
was possibly a piece of old hoop-iron. We were not
—
allowed to touch this precious article it was too
highly prized. This was not to be wondered at when
its probable history is considered, with what trouble

it had been obtained, the great distance over which

it had been brought (for it must have come from the

coast), and the high price which doubtless had been

paid for it. With this instrument, a few stone axes,
and by the aid of fire, a great section of the
densest forest has been cleared of timber, and when
it is remembered that burning a tree down is an
almost impossible operation in such a streaming wet
country, it is evident that the work must have taken
years to accomplish.
Some plane-tablework was carried out while the
bartering was in progress, though in this we were
continually inconvenienced by the exclamations and
gestures of our inhospitable hosts, whose one desire
was to see the last of us. It was evident that the
path by which we had come was not the usual means
of access to the plains, and we now endeavoured to
persuade our small friends to disclose the right track,
not only in order to save a repetition of the wearisome
journey back to camp, but because we might wish to
follow it at some future time. Though understanding
quite well what was required, they flatly refused to
120
 FRESH LINE OF ADVANCE
point out the regular road, and despite the tempting
offer of a piece of red cloth, not one of them would
render any assistance whatever.
Our efforts at persuasion having failed, we were at
length obliged to retire by the same way as we had
come, followed, so long as we remained in sight, by the
scowls of the excited and jabbering pygmies.
Though our curiosity as to the clearing was partly
satisfied, the stubbornness and secrecy of the small
men made us all the more determined to find out
where their habitations were, how they lived, and what
were their customs.
For the present honours were evenly divided, and
the claims of other work were of too pressing a nature
to allow of a prolonged stay in this district.
The Kapar^ having proved unsuitable as a line of
advance to the snow-clad mountains, it was necessary
to strike out in an entirely new direction. The store-
house and the prepared road were abandoned. Wol-
laston returned to Wakatimi, and Marshall came up to
join me at Parimau ;consequently our ,efforts to study
this interesting race more closely had to be postponed
for several months to come.

121
 CHAPTER IX
— — — —
Parimau A promising farmyard Native dogs Pet animals A casso-
— — — —
wary Up the Mimika Arduous ti-avelling Capsised The language
— " Oewera-mina "— — — —
Birth, marriage, death Disease Burial Medi-
— — —
cine A brisk market in skulls Religion Courage of the natives
Useful electric torch

LITTLE more could be done in the way of explora-

tion until the arrival of Goodfellow with the
new batch of coolies.Our time, however, was fully
occupied with the work of constructing the houses of
both the Dutch and British sections, which was carried
on energetically, until at length living and store rooms
sufficient to shelter the whole force extended for
a distance of two hundred yards along the right bank
of the river, while a considerable area of the forest was
cleared for hygienic reasons, and for the cultivation of
Indian corn, papaya, bread-fruit and banana trees,
beans, pumpkins, and other vegetables. Such was the
richness of the soil that, now that the sun's rays were
able to reach the ground, the imported plants flourished
—
exceedingly the scarlet runners and pumpkins in
particular spreading over every roof and railing.
Paths were made, landing platforms and ladders
erected, and an example, which they were not slow to
follow, set to the villagers opposite as to how human
habitations and their surroundings should be laid out.
Parimau on our first arrival had consisted of a
straggling, irregular row of twenty-four huts, all of the
roughest and most primitive description, situated on
122
 A PROMISING FARMYARD
the highest point of a shingly beach at a bend of the
Mimika River. Three months later, so many addi-
tions and alterations had been made that the place was
hardly recognisable. A
section of the forest to the
north and east had been cleared, a new site selected
farther away from the river, and the huts, now forty-
five in number, erected afresh on an altogether superior
plan.
The style of architecture in one or two instances
was a very good imitation of what had been adopted
for our storehouses, which, owing to their having
been built almost entirely by the Gurkhas, who were
naturally influenced by the type of building they had
been accustomed to H\'e in, were again a copy of the
usual habitations to be found in Nepal. A dancing-
hall sufficient to holdone hundred performers had also
been run up, from whence nightly sounds of revelry
and the thud, thud of the drums told of nmch dancing
and contented lives. Sad to relate, this attempt on
the part of the natives to improve their lot was largely
labour in vain, for before the end of the year both
land and huts had vanished, swept away by the insa-
tiable floods.
On our side of the river a most promising farmyard
was established, the chief inmates being three or four
young cassowaries and pigs, which, though black when
mature, are at this early age marked with horizontal
brown and yellow stripes. These animals rapidly
became tame, and within a day or two of being
captured will follow one about like dogs one little
;

pig in particular used to play the familiar puppy-dog

game of racing round and round the table, squeal-
ing hard when a grab was made to catch him, and
when one got tired of playing thus, would seize and
123
 NATIVE DOGS
shake one's trousers to show that he for his part wished
to continue the fun. The young cassowaries and pigs
by the natives, the mothers being run
are easily caught
down and brought to bay by the dogs until the arrival
of the hunters the old ones then break away and
;

leave the young to be caught or escape as best they

can. If possible, the squeakers are taken alive in order
to be brought up and fed by the and eaten
villagers,
at some special festival. When young and ignorant
of the unkind ways of the world, they have a bad time
of it from the village dogs, being chased hither and
thither, until at length they realise by bitter experience
that the hut is the only place of safety.
The dogs are of the usual yellow mongrel type,
about the size of an Irish terrier thin, lank, and
;

covered with mange. They are to be found all over

New Guinea, and are much prized by their owners,
for on their keenness and hunting instincts depends
the regular supply of meat. Without their aid hunt-
ing would be but an unprofitable labour, and the
men might seek in vain for the flesh which they so
much relish. Two or three times a week they are
taken out and rarely fail to run down a pig, cassowary
or wallaby, sometimes cornering as many as four or
five of the latter in one day. Curiously enough they
never bark, but amply make up for any inability to
relieve their feelings in this respect by their mournful
and prolonged howls. Started by one dog, the identical
note is taken up by every animal within hearing dis-
tance, and is continued until one wishes every creature
dead and buried. ^^aluable though they may be to
their owners, they are starved, cruelly treated and
thrashed on the slightest provocation, but, in spite of
the fact that they must have the same instincts as other
124
 Wambirimi Village
The home of the Tapiro pygmies.

I'ARiMAu Camp
The Biitish section with retaining walls erected after the second flood.
 PET ANIMALS
dogs, however severe the rain of blows, they never
move away at a faster rate than a walk. This is not
from any false idea of dignity, for they yelp almost
before the blow is struck, and keep it up for minutes
afterwards. Not a single dog became friendly with any
of our men, or would ever enter the camp except under
cover of darkness, and this was certainly not owing to
any ill-treatment they received, for whatever faults
a Malay may have, cruelty to animals is not one of
them. The number of birds and pets collected by our
followers at AVakatimi showed this clearly enough
after a time their lories and parrots became so tame
that they were let loose to fly about in the jungle dur-
ing the daytime, coming down and alighting on the
shoulders of their masterswhen called at dusk.
The only wild animal which entirely refused to
respond to friendly overtures and efforts to tame it was
the night-loving cuscus, a sluggish opossum-like crea-
ture, with yellow cat-like eyes and a coat suitable for
the arctic regions, ever ready to bite and prepared to
use its claws on the slightest provocation. After weeks
of careful and kind treatment, they remained as savage
and unsociable as when first caught.
As is usually the case, most of the pets came to
untimely ends, and except for the birds none were ever
destined to find a home in the Zoological Gardens of
London. Indeed, an animal or bird which lives in
constant danger of meeting its death from shot or
snare seems almost to have a better chance of remain-
ing alive than one which is cared for in every way that
man can devise. Some animals seem to have charmed
lives, and this was the case with a female cassowary,
which for a whole year passed daily backwards and
forwards within half a mile of Parimau Camp. Her
125
 UP THE MIMIKA
deep-noted call was heard morning and evening as
she went her usual round heedless or disdainful of the
many attempts made to end her existence. In July
her continual drumming attracted a male bird from
the forest on the other side of the Mimika. He
emerged one morning from the undergrowth directly
opposite the camp, and was seen to march across the
beach and attempt to ford the swollen river. Absorbed
in planning out a scheme to cross the torrent he passed
close to the huts and in full view of the natives, but
seemed to be too preoccupied to notice the excited
throngs which were observing him from both banks
and it was not until half a dozen rifle shots had
scattered the sand near him that he realised his un-
comfortable situation and retired once more to the
seclusion of the forest. Undeterred by this failure, he
made another attempt on the following day, but this
time with more unfortunate results to himself, for a
lucky shot laid him low close to the water's edge. This
bird proved to be a new variety, and would have been
a valuable acquisition to the collection. Unluckily,
some of the coolies reached the carcase first, and before
they could be stopped had plucked out handfuls of the
best feathers with which to make fly whisks
It was during one of the many short journeys
undertaken for the purpose of collecting mammals and
birds, that a garrulous and unwary savage unintention-
ally showed Shortridge a path which led eastwards,
at the other end of which, so he said, a great river
ran. Apparently these people did not wish us to know
of the existence of this route, and in spite of the fact
that natives often arrived from some place in that
direction always professed ignorance when questioned
about it. It was a fortunate discovery, as the entrance
126
 ARDUOUS TRAVELLING
was so well concealed that we should never have hit
upon it ourselves, and owing to the Kapare route
having proved useless, our great desire was to find a
new way leading towards the great mountains in the
east. Witli the exception of this valuable piece of
information, Shortridge's journey yielded no zoological
results, and indeed, proved an unfortunate one for
those who took part in it. It may be interesting to
relate briefly the adventures of the party on this occa-
sion, as they give a good idea of the difficulties which
were constantly being experienced as the result of
distant storms and rainfall in the mountains.
Accompanied by two Gurkhas, Shortridge set out
soon after daylight for the purpose of working the
forest close round the source of the Mimika, taking
with him sufficient equipment to enable him to pro-
long his stay should it be found necessary to do so.
No Papuans were employed as carriers, as they had
hitherto proved themselves entirely unreliable, but
with the usual perverseness of the native, twelve of
them followed the party on foot to a spot where, on
account of the shallowness of the water no further
progress in the canoe was possible, and where, in
consequence, the tent was pitched.
Leaving one Gurkha behind, Shortridge pushed on
for another three miles, keeping to the river-bed so as
to avoid the tedious work of cutting a way through
the forest. While slowly progressing up-stream in this
manner, he noticed that the river was appreciably rising,
although as far as was known no rain had fallen any-
where in the neighbourhood. An immediate retire-
ment was decided upon, but so rapidly did the river
deepen that after going back a few hundred yards
they were forced to leave the bed and take to the
127
 CAPSrSED
jungle. At the first creek, which half an hour before
had contained no more than the merest trickle of water,
they were only too glad to make use of a fallen tree
in order to gain the further side. After a two hours'
struggle through a sea of mud, perpetually felling trees
to bridge the numerous swollen creeks encountered,
and drenched to the skin by the rain which had now
commenced to fall, they arrived at the place where the
tent had been left. Here the country was found to be
under water and the savages standing ankle-deep on
the roots of the trees, whilst the tent itself and the
baggage had been placed for safety on the branches
overhead.
It was out of the question to attempt to camp in
such a place, and the only alternative was an imme-
diate return by canoe, despite the swollen state of the
river. Unfortunately the dozen Papuans had also come
to the same conclusion. In vain did Shortridge attempt
to keep them out of the boat they had made up their
;

minds to come, and it was impossible to prevent them.

They clambered in and, seizing the poles, started the
overladen and rickety craft on her homeward voyage.
Though the river was now in full flood, by clever
handling of the canoe, in which art these people excel,
they would doubtless have reached home safely had it
not been for a slightly submerged and quite invisible
tree-trunk 500 yards above the village of Parimau.
This, as fate would have it, they struck full in the
centre, and in an instant the canoe had capsised the
;

occupants were thrown into the water and struggled

ashore as best they could. Guns, rifles, and provisions
went straight to the bottom, whilst the lighter articles
were whirled away in the darkness. The old men of
Parimau, hearing the commotion, rushed from their huts
128
 THE LANGUAGE
and, wading breast-high into the torrent, seized most
of the floating goods as they were being swept past the
village. The women, who on the alarm had fled
first

to the jungle, on learning that no lives had been lost,

hurried back with demonstrative cries of joy to hug
and cry over the bedraggled heroes of the adventure.
No real harm was done, as the weapons were recovered
when the waters had subsided, and only a few unim-
portant articles were irretrievably lost. This rapid rise
of the river was by no means exceptional ; in fact, it
afterwards became a daily occurrence, varying only
according to the intensity of the storm and the catch-
ment area first struck.
Except for short journeys such as this in the neigh-
bourhood of Parimau, little could be done at this time
owing to no coolies being available for transport. Our
time was occupied in skinning and preparing the natural
history specimens brought in by the Gurkhas, whilst
every opportunity was taken to make a fuller study of
the Papuans working in and around the camp and the
small parties of visitors who still continued to trickle
in from the villages lying in more remote districts.
During the early months of the expedition the difii-

culty of mastering even the rudimentary elements of

the language was such that we were often led into
forming wrong conclusions as to the customs and habits
of the people amongst whom we were living.
As an example of the mistakes which occur when
one attempts to grasp and put a meaning to the words
of an unknown tongue, the following is typical. \Ve
were at this time particularly anxious to reach the
village of the Tapiro pygmies whose plantations we
had already visited, or indeed any other village belong-
ing to this tribe (it was not till several months after-
189 I
 "OEWERA-MINA"
wards that we learnt that they were known as Tapiros),
but, before making any inquiries as to how to get there,
it was first of all necessary to know what the little men

were called by their greater brethren of the plains.

After much discussion we came to the conclusion that
the word "oewera" meant "men," and the word
" mina " meant " small," so having settled this point
guides were obtained from the village and instructed
to lead us to the place where the " oewera-mina
dwelt.
Several small journeys were undertaken for the
purpose of seeing the "oewera-mina" in their homes,
but, curiously enough, despite the promises of the
Papuans, not once did we have the slightest success.
Now, one of the Papuan carriers was of diminutive
size, and although we knew his real name to be Tibbo,

as a joke he was nicknamed " Oewera-mina." This

caused hilarious merriment amongst his friends, and
despite his evident dislike to the term the name stuck,
and by ithe was known to the end of the expedition.
Not till long afterwards did we learn that " mina " was
the Papuan for " no," and discovered that we had been
making efforts, not to reach the home of the pygmies,
but the land where " no man " lived. Added to
this, we had insulted our small carrier whenever we
addressed him by calling him " no man," a term of
deadly reproach in this land where woman is held of
no account.
As time went on and our knowledge of the language
increasedwe were able to form clearer ideas regard-
ing the customs and beliefs of this primitive people.
Though their intellectual powers are very limited, and
though swayed almost entirely by their animal passions,
the study of their mode of life and ways of thinking
X30
 BIRTH— MARRI AGE— DEATH
was exceedingly interesting, and one was enabled to
realise how the sav^age forefathers of the British race
must have lived and reasoned three thousand years
ago, until contact with the outside world raised them
to a higher plane of civilisation.
In most man's life
societies the chief incidents in a
— —
birth, marriage, or death are associated with be-
coming rites and ceremonies. Curiously enough, the
savages of the Mimika district do not attach any
particular significance to these events, and seldom
mark them by observances or rejoicings. Marriages,
except on special occasions, are not considered of
much importance, and are not celebrated by feasts
or jollification in fact, they might be more properly
;

described as " pairing off" than as what we understand

as marriage. It must be remembered that woman is
regarded merely as an accessory to man's comfort, a
slave to his pleasures, and a creature whose chief busi-
ness it is to procure and prepare his food. The girl is
purchased and brought home to the man's, village. The
husband erects a separate hut, away from inquisitive
eyes, but close to the village, and here the couple live
for two or three weeks, afterwards joining the rest of
the inhabitants in what is practically the communal
dwelling-room. seems strange that the occasion is
It
not made more of by organising a " sing-song," a great
hunt or a feast of some sort, but such is not the case ;

instead of this all is passed over in complete silence,

and no particular significance is attached to this
dominating event in a man's life. Nor is any attention
paid to birth. Not once were we made aware of the
coming into the world of a child, and this seems all the
more curious, as the natives treat the children Avith
great kindness and affection.
131
 BIRTH— MAKRTAGE— DEATH
It does sometimes happen an im-
in the case of
portant member of the tribe that the marriage is
marked by festivities and singing, though even this
is exceptional. Such an occurrence was witnessed by
Goodfellow at Wakatimi when the nuptials of one of
the principal men of the tribe were celebrated. On
this occasion a large awning was erected in the village
street and decorated with much trade cloth beneath
;

this a concert was held at which the members of the

tribe were present. The singing was kept up all night,
and in the morning canoes, decorated with carving and
fringes of grass, left the village for some spot down-
stream. Some few hours afterwards they returned,
and the men disembarked and re-entered their huts.
Then followed what to our eyes was a most pitiable
and degrading ceremony. Out of one of the boats
emerged the bride, accompanied by a very old woman
probably her mother. No welcome was accorded them,
and no notice taken of their presence. The bride,
preceded by the old woman, crawled out of the canoe
into the mud, and on her hands and knees approached
the hut of her lord in the same way that a dog crawls
up to his master, knowing that he is to be punished for
some fault. Slowly she advanced in this degrading
posture, stopping every now and then to grovel in
the mud, until she vanished through the doorway of
her future home. Poor woman, who could not but
pity her
Other rites and ceremonies there may be, but what-
ever their nature they must be of the simplest possible
description. Our position at Parimau commanded a
view right down the village street, and had any celebra-
tion out of the ordinary taken place we could not have
helped seeing it.

132
 DISEASE
As to death and burial customs there was, unfor-
tunately, enough evidence and to spare, for probably
nowhere in theworld are the birth and death rates
so high. Middle-aged men and women are rarely seen,
and I doubt if any person over forty, or at the most
forty-five, years of age is to be found in the district.
Boys spring into manhood and the young girls into
womanhood in the course of a few months, the latter
becoming mothers as soon as they are capable of bear-
ing children, and then withering up and shrivelling
away under the toil and strain of their laborious exist-
ence. Several boys whom upon our arrival we had
looked upon as mere children were amongst the ranks
of the men when we left the district some fifteen
months later.
Fever, boils, pneumonia, elephantiasis, skin disease,
leprosy, and syphihs are the main ills from which they
suffer, more especially the last named, which here
assumes a typical form. About 20 per cent, of the
population appear to be afflicted with this dire com-
plaint, the wrists and ankles being the parts chiefly
affected. The scourge would seem to have been
brought into the land by the Chinese ; at any rate
there is no doubt that they are responsible for its intro-
duction amongst the people living in the northern and
western part of the island, from whence it has spread
round the coast to the more southern districts. It was
particularly noticeable amongst the natives of the coast
village of Atabo, where nearly half the population
showed visible signs of its ravages. It is unnecessary
to say more on the subject, for the sights we witnessed
were too horrible to relate, and the sufferings of the
stricken, more especially the children, were sufficient to
melt the stoniest of hearts. What a contrast between
133
 MEDICINE
the deformed and shrinking human
being and the
Papuan and powerful, every
in rude health, graceful
muscle standing out clean and distinct and the skin
gleaming with physical well-being !

A great number of the natives appear to suffer at

some time or other from malaria, and the only wonder
is that more are not affected, considering how the

malaria- carrying mosquito abounds in the swampy

forests. For this we often gave the people quinine,
sometimes with astonishing effect. Our old friend, the
headman of Nime, had his two wives down with fever
at the same time, and brought them into camp whilst
we were away at the coast. The younger was the
prettiest girl in the district, and, to judge by her coy
behaviour, was well aware of the fact. During her
examination blushes coloured her dusky skin, and
jNIarshall took an unconscionable time in feeling her
pulse and inquiring into her symptoms. The quinine
worked wonders, and the fever, which had possibly been
aggravated by the excitement of the meeting, abated
almost immediately.
The people seemed to have no knowledge what-
ever of the medicinal value of herbs, and only the
most rudimentary idea of surgery, limited, so far as
we could see, to opening the centre of the affected
area with a split cane. Knowing nothing themselves
about the art of healing they, like so many savage
races, loved medicine, and would often feign headache,
or some such ailment equally hard to diagnose, for the
purpose of being given a heavy dose of pills. By the
quickness with which the patient recovered his former
spirits and the manner in which he settled himself
where he could most comfortably watch and take an
intelligent interest in the work being performed by
134
 An Idle Dandy of Parimau

Papuans experimk.nting for the FiRsr time with Soap

 MEDICINE
others, the cure was a high tribute to the skill of the
doctors, but to the onlooker was open to suspicion.
Their powers of recuperation are extraordinary. I re-
member the case of a Parimau man who, when wielding
an axe, had almost cut his foot in two. Blood poison-
ing supervened. When the case appeared hopeless and
the loss of the limb, or even the man's life, was likely
to result, he was brought over for Wollaston to attend.
The wound was disinfected and dressed, and the man
told tocome over again on the following day. As
might be expected from these perverse people, the
patient was taken away and no more seen for five
weeks. He was then found to have completely re-
covered and to have the full use of his foot, although
naturally much disfigured, and of this weird limb he
was inordinately proud.
No care is ever taken of the sick, since comforts
and medicines are unknown, and the sufferer breathes
his last in full view of all, amidst the everyday noises
and quarrelling of the village. The body is left in the
place where death supervened, the mourners flinging
themselves on the corpse and rending the air with their
shrieks. The howl of grief is taken up by all within
hearing, and the people then proceed to the nearest
mud pool to smear themselves from head to foot with
filth and slime, returning again to their huts to allow

the mud to dry, whilst the mournful wailing is con-

tinued without cessation. The near relatives, both
male and female, often remove every vestige of clothing
and continue their ordinary vocations for some days
afterwards without washing off the mud with which
they are covered. On one occasion, all the women
having stripped naked, entered the river and paddled
like dogs for a short distance up stream, returning
135
 BURIALS
afterwards with renewed howling to their homes. The
length of time during which grief is openly displayed,
and the intensity of its expression, varies according to
the importance of the deceased, but it is always less for
a woman than for a man.
Shortly after the burial of a husband the widow
adopts "weeds," consisting of a cloak and skirt of
plaited grass, together with a great poke bonnet which
stands out from ten to twelve inches beyond the face.
Widowers, whatever their inner feelings may be, adopt
no peculiar style of costume to express any outward
signs of grief.
morning the body is interred
If death occurs in the
on the same day, otherwise on the day following. It
is wrapped in pandanus matting, and carried shoulder

high to the place of interment, followed by the entire

population amidst outbursts of lamentation. The
corpse is laid in the grave and covered lightly with
soil, and is then roughly enclosed with sticks to prevent

the entrance of the village pigs and dogs. Sometimes

the body is left uncovered, and is then turned over
daily, apparently with the object of hastening decom-
position. A coffin, formed from a hollowed log and
shaped very much like a canoe, is occasionally utilised,
and is either buried in the soil or, as we observed in
some few instances, placed on trestles two or three
feet above the ground. The result is always the same,
for in this hot, damp climate the body rapidly decom-
poses, leaving the bones clean and bare. These are taken
from the grave or coffin and preserved in the ancestral
hut, where they may be seen slung in grass bags or sus-
pended by strings from the roof. The skull, however, is
the only part deemed of great importance, and even
then it is only valued at the price of a handkerchief.
136
 BRISK MARKET IN SKULLS
Specimens of skulls were required by the expedition
for scientific purposes, and when this became known
dozens were displayed or brought to the camp for sale.
Soon after our arrival at Parimau Marshall saw a skull
lying on the floor of a hut and at once coveted it, but
the request to be allowed a close examination pro-
duced such a scowling and talking that we came to
the conclusion that these relics of the dead must be
priceless heirlooms. Determined to secure one by fair
means or foul, I took the most friendly native to a
secluded spot, JNIarshall meanwhile keeping his com-
panions busy talking after much difficulty I succeeded
;

in making him understand what was wanted. Fearing

trouble if the deed was found out, I did my best to
explain that he was to obtain a skull and bring it over
to the camp at night, without saying a word about it
to anyone. For this he was to get a knife and hand-
kerchief. The prospective desecrator of graves —for
I looked upon him as such — at
once walked to the
bank opposite the village and, with a voice which
could be heard by every soul, brazened forth the fact
that we were collecting human skulls. I did my best
to prevent this outburst, but it was too late. In a
moment the village was in an uproar, but to our
intense surprise, instead of any hostile demonstration
taking place, at least a dozen men emerged from the
huts, each with a skull tucked under his arm. Down
the beach and through the water they raced to our
tents, each striving to be the first to dispose of his
relic, delighted at the idea that trade goods could be

so easily obtained and no manual labour required in

return.
I wish I could say more about the beliefs and
secret customs of these people, but the great difficulty
137
 RELIGION
experienced in understanding one another prevented
any intelligent conversation on these subjects. When
alone they w^ould give but little information, and,
when two or three were together, they insisted upon
all talking at once. It was bad enough to understand
when only one man spoke, but when all joined in the
resultwas a hopeless babel of sound. Much, however,
can be learnt by personal observation, and small things,
apparently unimportant in themselves, when pieced
together often allow of fairly complete and accurate
deductions being formed.
The wailing which takes place on the arrival of
visitors, and which had so startled us on our first
journey up the river, we found out afterwards to be
a form of prayer practised during the performance of
any risky deed, at the ceremonious slaughter of a pig,
and even at the setting of the sun.
There is nothing to indicate that these savages
have any definite belief in a Deity, nor did we observe
any signs of religious worship. In front of the
principal huts in the village of Nime stood a rudely
carved figure of a man, about four feet in height.
Another and similar idol was propped against a tree
in the village of Atabo, whilst a third was discovered
in some bushes half-way up the Mimika, apparently
brought down and washed ashore by a flood. The
natives showed no respect for any of these idols, but
laughed at our interest in them, familiarly patting their
rather shapeless limbs. So long had the third specimen
been in the position in which it was discovered that a
branch had grown through the ribs, whilst the fact that
it had remained there such a length of time showed of

how little value it was in the eyes of those who had

fashioned its malformed body.

138
 COURAGE OF THE NATIVES
Belief in a future life, however, is common to all
savages throughout the world, and it is the same here,
for when asked what became of a man after death, the
native would reply, " Far away," with a vague sweep
of the hand towards the horizon.
They are not wanting in courage, whicli sometimes
amounts to foolhardiness. On
the coast the frail canoes
are taken far out to sea and through the roughest of
surf, without any fear being shown of the ground-sharks
which swarm in these waters. When on the
in a canoe
river, or when swimming, there is no rapid too swift, no
current too strong, for these men to venture through.
Even of the alligators the native has no fear, plunging
in to seize the smaller ones and, at the sight of the
larger,merely heaving a sigh of regret owing to its being
beyond his power to secure so large a store of meat.
On land the same disregard of danger is shown. The
large number of snakes, mostly poisonous, which abound
in the forests are looked upon not as dangerous to
human life, but as a valuable supply of food. At
Parimau, when it became known that snakes were re-
quired for the reptile collection, large numbers of horned
adders and other varieties were brought in to camp,
though the bite from any of them meant certain death.
As badly damaged specimens were rejected, they were
generally brought in alive and uninjured, eitlier held by
the neck, twisted round a stick, or sometimes even
wrapped in a bunch of leaves. On one occasion the
snake was brought in coiled on the top of a bunch of
leaves, held in the hollow of the bent arm. life A
of incessant watchfulness has endowed the native with
a remarkable quickness of eye and deftness of hand.
As an instance of this, when Goodfellow was crossing a
small stream on the way to Tuaba, the native immedi-
139
 COURAGE OF THE NATIVES
ately in front of him, who was carrying a heavy load,
made a dive into the shallow trickle of water and
brought forth a writhing adder in his hand. He was
quite unconcerned, and after offering it to Goodfellow
passed it on to the man in rear, telling him to keep it
for the evening meal. On another occasion when a tree
which was being cut down crashed into the river, a
poisonous snake was cast from the branches into the
water. Our coolies sent a shower of stones after it as it
swam away, but Nata, a small boy belonging to the
village opposite, not wishing to lose the chance of the
reward, plunged into the stream, and grasping the
wriggling creature behind the head, brought it to land,
where it was forthwith consigned to the spirit bottle.
These are only one or two of the numerous instances
of the fearlessness displayed by the natives in dealing
with dangerous animals which came to our notice during
the time we were in the country.
The power to endure pain is another trait in their
character. They will stand an operation in silence and
without flinching. In the various combats with clubs
which they practise, though each man in turn receives
resounding thumps on the back, sufficient to break an
ordinary man's ribs, not a tremor is shown, nor is there
any shrinking from the punishment. But show them
something they do not understand, such as an electric
torch, or a " Teddy bear," and the untutored mind is at
once full of misgivings.
The electric torch, brought into the country for
night work with the theodolite, struck greater terror
into the hearts of these people than our entire armoury
of offensive weapons combined. It had to be but
lifted from the table and every native within view
would at once leave the camp. The following incident
140
 USEFUL ELECTRIC TORCH
will give some idea in what high esteem its magic
properties were held, and how by its use did a woman
escape a severe beating, if nothing worse. One night,
some hours after we had turned in to sleep, we were
awakened by the shrill screams of a woman in the
village opposite, accompanied by the guttural exclama-
tions of a man in anger, and the sound of blows. The
uproar increased, the whole village was astir, and the
shadowy forms of men could be seen running back-
wards and forwards as if seeking for someone. The
tumult slowly subsided. Beyond this we could make
out nothing, and were just turning into bed again, when
a roar of anger went up from the crowd, and a rush was
made across the shingle beach. Simultaneously there
was a splash, and by the ripples in the water a figure
could be seen swimming hard in our direction, evidently
with the intention of taking cover in the shadow of
our overhanging bank. We
had to try and protect the
fugitive, doubtless the woman whose screams we had
heard, but could not lend a helping hand lest our action
would be detected and a worse retribution eventually
overtake her. Marshall at the time was holding the
electric torch, and this he turned full on the people,
with most striking results. In an instant there was
dead silence, and without another word being uttered
or a man venturing to enter the water the crowd dis-
persed and slunk back to their homes. Who the
woman was, or what became of her, we know not, but
that she escaped the first outburst of anger was the
most important thing, and for this the torch was
entirely responsible.

141
 CHAPTER X
The track to Ibo —The —Inundations —Tattoo marks —Hospi-
Tuaba River
tality —A critical moment — Expeditious house moving— A zoological
collection — The bower-bird — Birds of paradise — Arrival of fresh coolies
—Poling and paddling —Trade articles

ON the last day of March Marshall and

a journey eastward along the path discovered
on
I started
by
Shortridge a fortnight previously. The Papuans were
only too anxious on this occasion to carry the loads, for
they had intended in any case to go in that direction,
and to receive payment for their journey was just what
they desired. The track branched off from the JNIimika
some three miles above the camp, this circuitous route
being taken in order to avoid an impassable sago swamp
which lay directly to the east of Parimau. The going
was heavy, and from the faintness of the track it ap-
peared that the road was little used the bent and ;

broken twigs on either hand, however, showed that it

was the recognised route. Innumerable streams crossed
the road, several of them waist deep, but otherwise
there were no obstacles to our progress.
News of our coming must have been sent on, for
at the half-way halt half a dozen natives were found
waiting to assist with the loads. One of these carried
a young pig, its snout tightly bound with rope, and

to judge from the torn arm of its owner, a decidedly

savage little beast. So bad was the inflammation
and so much pain did it cause that the man was only
too pleased to have it at once attended to by Marshall.
142
 THE TUABA RIVER
In spite of this he absokitely refused to be parted
from his pig, and I know that he looked after it well,
as some time afterwards I saw it when fully grown
later on it must have gone the way of all well-flavoured
from view.
pigs, for it disappeared
Five miles after leaving the Mimika we came out
on to the banks of one of the channels of the Tuaba,
which at this time carried a great volume of water and
was quite unfordable. Luckily a tree had fallen into
the water and jammed almost from bank to bank, and
by means of this and a rattan rope we were able to
reach the other side. The experience was exciting,
and we were inclined to think dangerous, an opinion
apparently shared by the natives, judging by the con-
tinuous wailing which was kept up by the patriarch of
the party whilst the operation was in progress. Later
on in the year the river changed into another channel,
so that this useful natural bridge was no longer
necessary.
The Tuaba near the foot of the great precipice
rises
to the north, at a distance of some twenty-five miles or
more from this place, and is quite as large a river as the
Kapare.
There being no ground high and dry above the level
of the river, the tents were pitched on an island close to
a few native huts, but owing to the rain which
fell during

the night proved to be anything but a secure harbour

it

of refuge. The water actually spread over the floor of

the tent, but luckily on this occasion subsided before
any damage had been done. As long as we were in
the country we were obliged to use this site to camp
on, as no higher ground was to be found anywhere
near. Time and again it was flooded whilst occupied
by our parties the baggage on one occasion being
;

143
 INUNDATIONS
rescued by the natives, whilst the coolies had to spend
the night in the trees.
During the first six months our coolies were always
able to cross bymeans of the fallen tree, but when the
south-east monsoons broke over the island, and the
heavy floods formed another channel, some other means
had to be found. Accordingly, a canoe was brought
and moored to the trees, and this worked splendidly
until it was commandeered by the Ibo people, who still
continued to look upon it as their property although it
had been bought and paid for.
Marshall and I had often heard of this village of
Ibo and the Kamura River upon which it was said to
be situated, so that we jumped at the chance of joining
the natives who proposed to make a visit to that place.
No baggage could be put into the rickety and overladen
canoe, and as the Tuaba was in full flood after the
night's rain we had numerous opportunities, when
racing down stream with the speed of a destroyer, of
appreciating the balancing abilities of the natives and
their power of guiding a canoe. At times the boat
moved slowly over an expanse of mud-coloured water,
at others itdarted at racing speed through narrow
rapids, whilst the waves splashed over the side, a
dexterous touch of the pole keeping it clear of the
half-hidden logs.
As mile after mile went by the river gradually
increased in size, and opened out on either hand, the
dark green of the forest being broken by stretches of
gravel or occasional masses of dead and tangled timber
brought down by former floods.
Two small villages were passed, but the speed at
which we were going precluded a close examination.
Eventually seven miles lower down we entered a large
144
 Tattookd Woman
Raised weals made by sharpened shells

Parimau
The usual idle morning scene in front of the village.
 ^
TATTOO MARKS
triangular area of water formed by the junction of the
Kamura and the Tuaba. Here we landed, for etiquette
forbade a nearer approach to the village until due warning
had been given. I bo could be seen on the right bank
of the Kamura half a mile away, and it was evident our
arrival was the cause of much consternation. Men
were running about grasping spears or bows and arrows,
and jostling the women folk into the forest. When
all was ready they advanced towards us in a threatening

manner. Much waving of rags of cloth on the part of

our men, and the evidently peaceful attitude we had
adopted, soon caused these hostile preparations to be
abandoned, and we were forthwith escorted to the
village and introduced to numerous talkative and
highly gratified greybeards.
There is no difference, either in appear-
practically
ance or in habits, between the men of Parimau and
I bo, and they undoubtedly belong to the same tribe.

Further proof of this is afforded by their having the

same tribal mark tattooed on the buttocks. Neither
here nor along the coast do the women bear this mark,
but instead, simply from love of decoration, they have
a few unsightly raised and contracted ridges between
the breasts or on the shoulder-blades. One woman
in particular, the wife of the chief of Nime, had her
back extensively scarred with these disfiguring slashes,
which, as they followed no regular design, did not add
in any way to the attractiveness of her appearance.
Except for these unsightly marks the art of tattooing
seems to be unknown in the district, though it is
almost universal along the north coast of the island,
where considerable skill is displayed both in execution
and design.
The village of Ibo consisted of thirty of the usual
145 K
 HOSPITALITY
leaf huts,from which, as we landed, peered dozens of
women's and children's faces. No smiles of welcome
were to be seen, only looks of curiosity or suspicion.
It is merely by taking not the slightest notice of the
women, or by passing them over as if their very
existence was not suspected, that any confidence can
be obtained by the female section of the population.
Their opinions have been of such little avail in the
councils of the men from time immemorial that they
now look upon themselves as mere chattels.
However low in the civilised scale the men and
women may be, they certainly do not lack the ele-
mentary virtue of hospitality, yet the form in which
it was offered was little to our liking. Though they
understood quite well that we intended to return the
same day to our camp on the Tuaba, and that we
had brought no tents, food, or bedding with us, they
insisted upon erecting a hut, in which they told us we
were to sleep. What mattered it, they said, if there
was no bedding was not the sand warm and dry ?
;

and as for food, was there not an abundance of sago ?

To prove that we need have no fear of going hungry
to bed, a couple of large flabby fish were produced.
We thanked them in the best way we could for their
offer, but told them that to stay the night was out
of the question, as only one Gurkha had been left in
charge of our goods, and that it was necessary to
return at once. We had hoped that the natives who
had brought us down the river would likewise take us
back, but when we asked them to do so not a single
man would enter the canoe, and the more we tried per-
suasion the sulkier they became, declaring that they
had no intention whatever of returning that day. To
make the matter worse, they refused to deliver up
146
 A CRITICAL MOMENT
the plane-table, which had been brought along, and
which was now in their possession. Unarmed as
we were the situation began to look rather ugly,
so in order to prevent any further annoyance the
canoe was pushed into the river and we prepared to
get back as best we could. This action turned the
scale, and showed them that we were determined to
depart at all costs. As they knew that they would
get into trouble in the event of disaster overtaking us,
an old man and woman stepped in, and with their aid
Tuaba camp was reached by nightfall.
The conduct of the natives on this occasion was as
strange as it was annoying, and I should have liked
to know what their game really was. It is hard to
believe that desire for our company was the sole reason
for this obstructive behaviour, particularly as we had
no trade goods in the canoe, and I wonder whether the
fact that the Tuaba camp contained plenty of valuable
stores under the guard of only one man may not have
had something to do with their refusal. At any rate,
they suffered for their misbehaviour, for though the
old man and woman each received an extra good knife
in payment, the others got nothing when they arrived
in camp on the following morning. They seemed
much surprised at this treatment, but solaced them-
selves with the thought that everything would come
right if they hurried up and carried well as far as
Parimau.
The inhabitants of Tuaba, likewise, decided to
join our party, the love of trading and desire for
gain having already taken a strong hold upon them.
Thirty all told, not including dogs and pigs, were on
the move within half an hour, and looked a hetero-
geneous though imposing gathering as they wound
147
 EXPEDITIOUS HOUSE MOVING
their way through the jungle. Not an article of
furniture or raiment was left behind. So frequently
is thishouse moving practised that the packing-up
process is carried out with great speed and the mini-
mum of fuss. Certainly the amount to be transported
is comparatively small, and each native knows exactly

—
what is his particular branch of work it would be
more correct perhaps to say the women know, for it
is they who carry everything, whilst the men do prac-

tically nothing. The former move the goods outside

the huts, pack the loads, and, when on the line of
march, carry by far the heaviest burdens. Apparently
never quite satisfied that they have enough to carry,
on the top of all they perch the smaller children, where
they cling on to any projecting piece of baggage or
twist their fingers tightly into the fuzzy hair of their
mothers. Close behind trot the girls and boys, agile
as cats, each carrying a load suited to his or her
strength. The men, being lords of everything and
having power to say who shall work and who shall
go free, carry nothing more than their spears, and
maintain that the arduous duty of marking the trail
and keeping an eye on the dogs is all that can reason-
ably be expected of them.
Uninteresting though this journey to Ibo had been
in itself, it was suflftcient to prove that the beginnings
of the longed-for route to the east had been located
at last. For the present, however, further prospect-
ing work was out of the question, as with the fickle
Papuan the only means of transport, distant travel
was impossible.
Weeks passed during which every eifort was made
to accumulate stores at Parimau. Until at least a
month's supplies were in hand, there was nothing to
148
 A ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTION
be gained by interfering with the convoys of food and
undertaking small local expeditions into the surround-
ing country.
In the meantime Shortridge and the Gurkhas were
working hard to form the nucleus of the zoological
collection. Between them they discovered several
new species and varieties of small mammals, but con-
sidering the wide area covered in the search and the
number of traps set in all the most likely places, the
results were disappointing, to be accounted for, no
doubt, by the boggy state of the country and its
unsuitability to mammal life. To my everlasting
wonder, the capture of an objectionable rat never
failed to send Shortridge into ecstasies of delight;but
then he is a naturalist, and can satisfy his enthusiasm
by measuring the length of the hairs of its coat or
noting the exact tinge of colour, while my ambition
is to destroy them all and rid the world of a pest.

The mammals are, without exception, marsupials, and

the like are not to be found all the world over.
The birds, on the other hand, are of absorbing
interest, and in no other part of the world can so
many species be found, so varied in plumage and so
striking in their peculiarities. Nature seems to have
specially selected the dark and gloomy forests of New
Guinea, an impregnable land far from the reach of
man, as the place in which to experiment in the most
extravagant combination of colours and in new forms
of bird life. Of these the collectors were fortunate
enough to discover ten new species, of whicli one
of the most striking was a Bower-bird, obtained
by Shortridge on the AV^ataikwa. On the male the
feathers are long and loose, those on the head, neck,
and half-way down the back of brilliant orange-
149
 THE BOWER-BIRD
scarlet, the cape at times being brought forward as a
ruff over the head, the rest of the body golden yellow
a picture of the most vivid colouring. Bower-birds
are so called because of the bowsers or huts they con-
struct for nesting purposes in a forest clearing. The
huts are composed of moss, and are of elaborate struc-
ture, opening in front on to a lawn or garden, the
whole laid out with great exactness and scrupulous
care, and decked wdth brilliant leaves, flowers, and
berries. On this dainty lawn the male bird dances
and disports himself before his mate, or meets other
males who play and dance together. The flowers and
berries are grouped or placed in lines, according to
their colours, and are renewed as soon as they fade.
Another species of exceptional beauty are the
Pittars. They like to keep to the ground, and only
take to flight on the rarest occasions. In shape and
colouring there is a radical difference between them
and other birds, but for pure beauty, with their bril-
liant and variegated plumage of black, chestnut, blue,
and scarlet, they can easily hold their own.
Of the birds of paradise, the Kings are by far the
most common. And what a glorious little gem he is,
with his glittering scarlet head and back, his carmine
throat edged with metallic green, two grey fans spring-
ing from his chest likewise tipped with green and
spreading out on either side, the under-parts of snowy
whiteness and with tail feathers of orange-red, the two
centre ones of which are of great length, having at
the tips a curled disc of golden green. How lovely he
looks when dancing before his mate, when the breast
and fan-like feathers are spread so as to form a shield in
front, the scarlet feathers fluffed out, and the metallic
discs of the two tail feathers waving above his head.
150
 BIRDS OF PARADISE
Some consider his colours too vivid, and prefer the Rifle-
bird,with his curved beak, velvety black coat, and
gorgeous breast of plates of metallic blue-green. The
noise this bird makes when in flight is as of the rustling
of hundreds of sheets of paper violently shaken.
Towards the close of the expedition a new form of
the Six-plumed Paradise Bird was obtained from the
Iwaka River, a wonderfully decorated bird with the
crown of old gold, silvery white and brown, and on
the occiput a patch of stiff metal-like feathers, golden-
green bordered with violet. On either side of the
eye there spring three long plumes on bare shafts, a
striking peculiarity.
Then there is the Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise
with back and neck plumage of dark brown plush,
wings of deep violet, and breast feathers edged with
emerald green. On the sides are long ornamental
plumes of bright yellow, and the rest of the under
parts of the same colour. Add to the list the wonderful
Magnificent, Greater, and others, and nothing in the
world can be found to equal the splendour and variety
of the birds of New Guinea.
INI any other varieties are just as beautiful in their
way, the Sun-birds, Honey-eaters, Fly-catchers and
Flower-peckers. The Manucodes, with their sombre-
coloured but glittering feathers, form the link between
the birds of paradise and the true crows, and are
peculiar in that the trachea is convoluted into as many
as twelve coils.
Lovely creatures in a hideous country.
Although so pleasing to the eye, they are singularly
deficient in song, the paradise birds venting their
feelings in piercing luniiusical notes, and most of
the remainder in twitterings. It struck me as so
151
 ARRIVAL OF FRESH COOLIES
peculiar that in this dark and dreary land, where hardly
a speck of colour is to be found in a day's march, the
birds should have been adorned by Nature in a very riot
of colour.
In April, three and a half months after landing, forty-
five coolies arrived, recruited for the most part in the
islands of Banda, Buton, and Amboina these were at
;

once put on to the work of transporting food- supplies

up the river to our advanced base at Parimau. On the
whole they were of a superior stamp to those previously
engaged, but it is a task beyond any man's power to select
suitable carriers from such a weedy and anaemic race.
Horribly wearisome were the six days of steady,
monotonous labour required to cover the short distance
of thirty-seven miles which lay between Wakatimi and
Parimau, and on Marshall's and Wollaston's shoulders
fell the brunt of this work. Even after the arrival of
the new coolies, and despite the energy and perseverance
displayed by all hands, the depressing fact soon became
evident that arrangements on a still larger scale would
be necessary in order to accumulate a sufficient reserve
of supplies at the up-river camp. As the result of three
months' labour we had merely a surplus of ten bags of
rice and a few of our own personal effects.
With the exception of a couple of days' work during
the first journey, the natives of Wakatimi never again
gave us the slightest assistance, and so little did they
relish the idea of any form of manual labour that on the
days when the canoes were being loaded they would
desert the village, and keep out of sight until the last
convoy was under way, and there was no longer any
danger of their being impressed for the work. Keen as
they were to obtain cloth, they could not summon up
sufficient energy or determination to face a few days
152
 POLING AND PADDLING
canoe paddling up the INIimika River. At first we
ascribed this aversion solely to laziness, but, as we got
toknow them better, we came to the conclusion that it
was as much due to their imwillingness to cross the
boundary line between the up- and down-river tribes as
to their natural sloth.
Itwas not long before our own coolies, who when
first imported were quite ignorant of any form of canoe

work, realised that it was necessary to master the rudi-

ments of paddling and to work with a will in order to
obviate the unpleasantness of having their evening meals
postponed till after nightfall, and their tents pitched in
torrents of rain. Unlike the Papuans they preferred to
paddle in the sitting position, thereby losing driving
power but gaining stability. Practice makes perfect, and
after two or three journeys the more willing ones were
as good with their paddles as any man could wish to find.
Poling the boats, however, was quite another matter, and
though took their turn but few became proficient.
all

The intermediate camping grounds were fixed so

that a stage necessitated six or seven hours steady work ;

this distance proving to be as much as the coolies could

accomplish in such a damp, steamy climate. The day's
journey invariably ended in drenching rain, with the
added joys of a sodden camp and smoky fires, and
rarely, indeed, did fortune favour us sufficiently to allow
of a dry resting-place and comfortable bed.
Accustomed as they were to the slothful life led by
the inhabitants of the East Indian Islands, this heavy
work and the attendant discomforts soon told on the
health of the less robust coolies. Fever broke out, and
togetlier with sunstroke and boils, was soon responsible
for passing twenty-five per cent, of the force into the
hospital which had been erected at AVakatimi. The
153
 TRADE ARTICLES
work of doctoring these men, as well as the sick amongst
the Javanese escort and convicts, was one of WoUaston's
duties. The Javanese at Wakatimi suffered even more
than our own men, which would lead one to think that
the Amboinese are the sturdier race of the two the ;

excessive amount of sickness at the base camp may,

however, have been partly due to the lack of good drink-
ing water —the river here being tidal, and the camp
refuse swept backwards and forwards with every tide.
Had the Wakatimi natives been willing to assist in
the paddling of our canoes, what stores of wealth they
might have accumulated Anything and everything
!

they desired might have been theirs for the asking, whilst
our overworked coolies would have been available for
work at the head of the river, and in a position to tran-
sport the stores along the forest paths from Parimau.
Nearly all the trade articles were just what the
savages wanted, but several of the things, though
popular in other parts of New Guinea, found no favour
in the sight of the people of this district. Jews' harps,
for instance, were scorned, and the men and women
would barely accept them few disposed of
as a gift, the
being utilised as earrings. Looking-glasses were also
not appreciated. It was not that the men did not want
to have a look at themselves, but that they did not
seem to want to do it more than once. I would be the
last tosuggest that they were deficient in looks, or that
vanity went for nothing with them, but however little
pleasure they themselves received from the experiment,
it was to us a never-failing source of amusement. The
candidate in the beauty competition, for such it seemed
to be when an expectant crowd had collected round,
settled himself on his haunches, and when comfortable,
confidently raised the glass before his eyes. This invari-
154
 TRADE ARTICLES
ably led to the development of a broad smile the first —
impression was good. But tlie longer he looked and the
more carefully he examined himself in detail the more
disappointed he became. The smile vanished, giving
place to a look of surprise, and then, as the defects of
hair, eyes, and nose became impressed on his mind, the
confident air changed to one of disapproval. With a sigh
the glass would be passed to the next competitor, who
would be fidgeting awaiting his turn.
in rear, eagerly
Beads, particularly large blue ones, were in great
demand and readily bartered, but towards the end of
our stay became a drug in the market they at no time
;

approached in value some ancient ones, oval in shape

and light blue in colour, already in their possession
before we arrived, and which had probably been im-
ported from the Aru Islands.
To be
the possessor of a steel axe-head is the native's
highest ambition, but when he has obtained his wish it
need not be expected that any further work will be got
out of him, and for this reason they were but sparingly
issued until towards the close of the expedition. An
axe-head is a good thing to give in exchange for a canoe,

or in payment of a prolonged period of work, but is too

much to give for anything less. Knives also are much
sought but the same thing applies to them as to
after,
axe-heads. No
one wants to possess a dozen knives, so
why do unpleasant work to gain more than is required.
Empty tins, jam jars, and bottles are good articles of
exchange, particularly kerosene oil cans ; these latter are
valued as forming a dry portable safe in which to store
the family treasures. The very old and dilapidated tins
are used to boil water in, and were considered a great
improvement on the hollow bamboos or cocoanut shells
which, until we arrived, were the largest receptacles
155
 TRADE ARTICLES
used for this purpose. In the Mimika district many
hundreds of these kerosene tins must have been accumu-
lated by the savages, sufficient to make the present
generation happy for years to come. Salt, a good trading
medium in other parts, is here useless, as the people
have a particular dislike to the taste. On this account
they refused, even when suffering from hunger, to touch
our dried and salted fish.
There is one thing, however, which the Mimika
native never tires of and will hoard to his dying day, and
that is cloth. Quality, colour, condition, and shape are
matters of little import ; as long as it is cloth, that
suffices. Most of it vanishes into the aforementioned
tin family chest, but quite a quantity is utilised as wear-
ing apparel. A Papuan clothed in a vest full of holes,
a torn and dirty old coat, or a shapeless cloth cap is not
a pleasant sight, but is generally a proud and happy man.
The natives of Parimau quite appreciated the im-
portance to them of making a corner in cloth, and did
their best to control the market. On the arrival of
visitors with articles for sale they would hurry over and
tell us to pay for anything we might want in tins, bottles,

or beads, but on no account to give cotton goods.

Having thus arranged affairs to their satisfaction they
would escort the strangers to our camp. If we offered
some rubbish, such as an old tin in exchange for a bunch
—
of bananas which the Parimau men would not have
sold under the price of a knife — they would exclaim
with much enthusiasm, " Good, good " " Take it!" and
!

would congratulate their friends on the excellence of

the bargain made. Still, greatly to the disgust of our

neighbours, we generally insisted on paying cloth to

strangers who brought fruit, if only to encourage them
to come again with further supplies.
156
 CHAPTER XI
A — Cooled ardour— A pig festival — Highway robbery —Resti-
village brawl
— Theft — Dishonoured notes — Wife beating — Our steam-launch
tution
—A transformation — The Drecubiought
TT^IGHTS and but more often the former,
festivals,
-I- in the village of Parimau helped to while away the
time and add variety to our rather monotonous exist-
ence. Occasionally the fights were on a large scale and
affected the entire community
at other times they were
;

restricted to families or even individuals.

One morning, towards the latter end of April, we
were awakened by a din sufficient to rouse the dead,
and found men hurrying up and down the village
street shouting and gesticulating wildly, in a fever
of excitement. The quarrel ended in the usual manner
by the able-bodied men rushing to arms and indis-
criminately attacking one another. Several of them
appeared to join in just for the sake of the fun, adding
fuel to the fire and affording additional amusement to
us. Whilst the main fight was going merrily on, these,
starting on the outside of the crowd, would set to work
to carve a way through with their clubs, and as soon as
they had reached the other side, would turn about and
start afresh. This horseplay was not resented by the
remaining combatants, who were perhaps too engrossed
in their own personal quarrel to pay any attention to
this outside distraction. The peacemakers, of whom
many were women, at length brought the fight to a close,
but not before several severe wounds had been given
157
 A VILLAGE BRAWL
and received. Two brothers strongly resented this
truce they were out for a fight and some excitement,
;

and did tlieir best to keep it up, going from house to

house and challenging any and all to combat. It was
difficult to make out what all the trouble was about,
but it seemed that a woman was at the bottom of it,
and as she could not be found, it was then and there
determined that the entire population should set out
for Ibo, seize her by main force if found, and, as they
explained by graphic actions, cut her throat.
All were full of ardour, and preparations were at
once made to put the plan into execution. Whilst the
women were packing the sago bags and other impedi-
menta the men decorated themselves with plumes and
got together tlieir spears, bows and arrows, stone clubs,
and in fact anything which might come in handy as a
weapon. No doubt for our edification they did not
neglect to ostentatiously sharpen their trade knives.
Soon all was ready, the signal was given for the
advance, and the march began with the more blood-
thirsty savages in the van, whilst the laggards followed
in a long straggling line. The preparations, however,
had taken some time to complete, and as the desire for
vengeance, at first so overpow^ering, began to cool,
the more timid and peaceably inclined fell farther
to the rear.
Some sat down to discuss the situation ; others re-
turned to search for mythical or mislaid articles, until
at last the leaders, obliged to stop and see what
detained the remainder, themselves sat down to in-
vestigate the delay and discuss the matter afresh.
More more quarrelling ensued, until it was
talking and
decided that the great attack should be post-
finally
poned till the morrow. Fickle creatures When !

158
 COOLED ARDOUR
morning dawned the whole affair had been forgotten,
or was not considered of sufficient importance to justify
further action no warHke preparations were made, and
;

the women went as usual to their sago swamp, whilst

the men returned to their peaceful pursuit of canoe
building.
Instead of the bloodthirsty raid which they had
contemplated making upon their eastern neighbours,
they were, on the following day, themselves peacefully
invaded by the very men whom they had intended to
attack. Had we not witnessed both events, it would
have been hard to believe that such violent anger
and thirst for revenge could have evaporated in so
short a time.
The new-comers, received with open arms and
treated as old and trusted friends, were soon housed,
and as they brought a full-grown pig and plenty of
food, were made doubly welcome. They proved to be
the forerunners of a considerable influx from the villages
lying to the east, and as the numbers grew it became
evident that an event of great importance was about to
take place. The housing accommodation was strained
to the utmost, so much so that the new dancing hall
had to be appropriated as a sleeping room, providing
shelter to over thirty families.
An air of suppressed excitement pervaded all, and
even the two village boai^s, who, sad to relate, were
destined to play an important part in the proceedings
later on, were galvanised into unwonted activity by the
noise and the unusual number of full sago dishes placed
before them.
For two days the nmsic of the tom-toms was
incessant, and culminated in an outburst of dancing
and singing on the evening of the 3rd of INlay. At
159
 THE PIG FESTIVAL
midnight the dancing ceased and the women retired,
but the deep-toned note of the drum continued, each
beat being followed by a howl from the men until the
sun rose over the trees to the east. At an early hour a
native appeared in our camp with the request that we
should come over and see the show. As we approached
children carrying drums were already marching down
the beach, and there, taking up a position at the far
end, started an orchestra of their own. Close behind
came the two boars, driven into the jungle by weeping
women, and thence by a hidden path back into one of
the huts. As soon as the animals were safely housed
the men formed themselves into a three-sided square,
the flanks of which consisted of those armed with
feathered spears and paddles, whilst the end was closed
by the orchestra. Behind the musicians were grouped
the women and children.
Chanting loudly the square advanced, being ha-
rangued at intervals by the headman of the village,
who, when he had worked himself up to the proper
pitch of excitement, terminated the scene by discharg-
—
ing two arrows over the tree tops an action loudly
acclaimed by the audience. A general move was then
made to the village, where Marshall and I were given
the position of honour close to a sloping platform which
had been erected during the hours of the night.
After a short pause the men, armed with large
rattan nooses, placed themselves on either side of the
hut within which the pigs were confined, and at a
given signal the animals were driven forth, successfully
overpowered and trussed, their snouts tightly bound
and chalk thrown into their faces and eyes. With a
man seated astride each animal, and to the accom-
paniment of loud wails from the women, they were
160
 THE PIG FESTIVAL
lifted shoulder-high, carried to the place of slaughter,
and lashed to the platform.
The executioners with their clubs took up posi-
tion, whilst the audience, numbering some two hun-
dred crowded
souls, closely around, and as the rain
of blows fell, drowned the squeals of the victims by
yells and the beating of drums. Death must have been
instantaneous, but the basting continued until the car-
cases had ceased to quiver, when for quite five minutes
the entire audience gave itself up to unrestrained wail-
ing and gnashing of teeth the women hugging and
;

clasping the carcases in their unnatural grief, whilst the

airrang with shrieks and tears coursed down every cheek.
Gradually the sounds of lamentation decreased in
volume, only to break out with renewed violence as a
three-year old child, painted from head to foot in a
bright red pigment, was brought forth from a hut,
liftedshoulder-high and carried to the now empty
platform. In a flash the same thought passed through
our minds the boy was to be sacrificed
; As the pigsI

had died so would he die Slaughtered to make a

!

savage holiday, or to fulfil some barbaric rite and we ;

were to stand by and watch it !

—
but no, not if we
could prevent it. One hurried whisper, cameras were
closed, and we were ready for action. What we would
have done I hardly know, but fortunately active inter-
cession was delayed until a more definite and critical

stage in the proceedings should arrive. Foolish indeed

should we have looked had we dramatically interfered
at that moment, driven the crowd away and seized the
child. As turned out, no such barbaric practice as
it

the sacrifice of an innocent child was contemplated.

Far from killing the boy, all that was done was to carry
him in triumph round the platform and then back into
161 L
 THE PIG FESTIVAL
the hut. It was but the final stage of a ceremony of
initiation into boyhood, and from what we could learn
had some connection with the piercing of the ears a very ;

different business to what we had expected Marshall

!

and I glanced foolishly at one another, and smiled as

we realised how near we had been to making ourselves
ridiculous.
The ceremony continued. The dead pigs were now
placed side by side in the village square, and the men
took it in turn to leap over them and administer blows
with heavy clubs as they passed. Twice was this
repeated, and then, seizing the carcases, the whole
party jumped into the river. A
general washing and
cleaning up followed, after which the pigs, their legs
lashed together, were carried solemnly towards the shore.
The mob having been again harangued by the headman,
the carcases were cut up and the meat distributed.
The remainder of the day was given up to general
jollification and good-natured horse-play in which the
women had a particularly good time of it for once ;

in a way they had the right to beat and cane the men
to their hearts' content, and pay off old scores. The
men were not allowed to retaliate, and if they wished
to escape chastisement had to seek refuge in the jungle
or in the deeper pools of the river. Little anger was
shown, and everything was taken in good part the ;

entire population was out for a day's amusement and

made the most of it. The damsels were as bold as
brass, and generally devoted their attentions to the
best-looking young men, and that may account for the
fact that they flocked over to our camp and attacked
us in our stronghold. Here they thoroughly enjoyed
themselves, until at last we rounded on them and gave
chase in turn, administering corporal punishment to
162
 HIGHWAY ROBBERY
the captured, an operation they seemed to hke, and to
which they surrendered themselves without one genuine
struggle. Seeing them thus harmlessly at play, it was
hard to realise that these same people on the slightest
provocation become very demons of fury with passions
utterly beyond control.
The day of festival, however, was to end with an
incident, all the more unpleasant after the previous
rejoicings and good-fellowship. Cramer with six
canoes appeared round the bend of the river. As a
rule the arrival of a convoy from below set the village
in a state of excitement, the men rushing down to
greet the new-comers and assist in unloading the stores,
much of which they knew would finally come into their
hands. On man moved, and the
this occasion not a
sounds of revelry suddenly ceased. Wedid not have
to wait long for an explanation. Cramer brought the
unpleasant news that our coolies, when returning from
Parimau the previous week, had been robbed of much
of their clothing at a point on the river not two miles
below the camp, and that the people of Parimau had
been recognised as the culprits.
We had noticed that the natives were rather trucu-
lent when the convoy started on that morning, and, as
a precautionary measure, had supplied the overseer
with a gun so that he might not be defenceless in case
of emergency. In spite of this his heart failed him,
and his twenty followers proved equally poor spirited,
for when five unarmed savages met them and demanded
their clothing, not one of them was man enough to
offer the slightest resistance. AVhat astonished us most
was the cool impudence of the whole proceeding, for
though the natives must have known that we would
hear of the assault sooner or later, they had been
163
 RESTITUTION
behaving since the episode took place in the most open
and unconcerned manner.
Late as it was, it was necessary to inquire into the
affair at once, and that the savages quite anticipated
some forcible action on our part was shown when
Marshall and I stepped into the canoe. The whole
village was seized with panic, and within three minutes,
and before we could reach the nearest huts, had cleared,
bag and baggage, into the forest. The difficulty was
how to get at the criminals. They and their friends
could be heard skulking in the jungle close at hand, but
it was a considerable time before we could see them and

get an answer to our hails, for to have bearded them

in the dense undergrowth would have been courting
disaster. Finally a man, better known to us than the
rest, peered from the cover of a great tree behind which
he had taken refuge. To him we addressed ourselves,
but in spite of the most persuasive epithets he would
neither approach nor allow anyone else to do so until
we had promised to retire the main part of our force
across the river. He knew very well what we were
after, and of his own accord promised to return the stolen
goods. When the place had been cleared of our people,
with the exception of Marshall and myself, the inhabi-
tants began to trickle back, the innocent first, then the
more guilty. Their behaviour was extraordinary. In-
stead of denying all knowledge of the theft they owned
up at once, asking whether we really wanted the things
back, and when told to bring them immediately, ex-
pressed the greatest surprise, and without more ado set
about collecting the sfoods. These had been distributed
amongst so many that not half could be found, though
we were able to recover several blankets, trousers,
jerseys and knives. I am finally convinced, however,
164
 RESTITUTION
that all the articles that could be traced were returned,
for the Wania people (a village situated three days'
journey to the east) had also been in the business, and
they had trekked to their distant homes at the first alarm.
As a result of this unpleasant occurrence the day of
jollity was transformed into one of gloom all revelry
;

ceased, the few remaining visitors left the village, and

not a whisper broke the stillness of the night.
The question now remained as to how the delin-
quents were to be punished for their treachery. I
think the course we eventually decided on was certainly
the most politic, and likewise the most effective in the
long run.
The inhabitants were collected, and clearly told
what they might expect in the way of reprisals should
anything like this ever occur again they were then
:

dismissed and the incident wiped out. To their credit

be it said, the forbearance on our part was appreciated
in so far that open violence was never again repeated.
The lesson was taken to heart. Though we had some-
times been blamed for not taking more drastic steps to
punish the marauders, such as burning down the village,
the future showed that our action was the correct one
under the circumstances. Had more severe measures
been adopted, we should never again have had a chance
of employing these men as carriers, and the expedi-
tion would have collapsed. Had one of them been
shot or the village destroyed, I feel certain that the
men of Parimau would have deserted for good and all,
and that never another load would have been carried.
It must not be forgotten that the shooting of two
savages at Wakatimi in the early days of the expedition,
though entirely necessary and justifiable, had almost led
to open hostilities, which were only averted by one of
165
 THEFT
the enemy coming over to us and disclosing the fact
that the people were stealthily collecting large quanti-
ties of arrows in the vicinity.This had enabled Cramer
to make such effective preparations for defence that the
attackers became aware that their intentions were no
longer a secret, and therefore that an attempted surprise
would have no chance of success.
The INIimika Papuan is not an adept thief, carrying
out the business in such an open and flagrant manner
that immediate detection is the result. He will appro-
priate anything left lying about if he considers it of any
use to him, and if he picks up a fallen article on the
road he looks upon it as his rightful property.
On the whole, however, we lost very little, and what
things were missed from the cook and store houses can
with more probability be put down to the account of
our own men, as every native in the East Indies is an
expert in the burglar's art. I imagine there is little, if

any, stealing among the Papuans themselves. They

seem to take a pride in deceiving one by deliberate
lying, and when detected show more amusement than
shame they have hardly the requisite amount of brains
;

ever to become highly successful exponents of the art.

What they lacked in skill they made up for in cunning,
and one little affair in particular showed how their
minds were continually working to get tlie better of us.
Such simplicity can hardly be believed possible, but the
most remarkable thing to their minds was the manner
in which the plot was detected. It happened thus.
As we had no system of runners, we found it con-
venient to give notes and letters to be delivered by the
Papuans who were returning to the camps, and the
effect these strips of paper had upon the savages was
the cause of much amusement, for it was quite beyond
the comprehension of the bearers how the missives could
166
 DISHONOURED NOTES
convey any kind of information. Later on, when the
notes often meant the reward of an axe or a piece of
cloth for work accomplished, and they found that pay-
ment was made immediately the paper was opened,
they became highly interested and hugged their pay-
ment orders as if they were bank notes, as, in fact, to
them, they were. We had only to give a man a note
and say that it represented an axe or whatever the pay-
ment was and he was perfectly satisfied. As they were
never deceived they trusted us implicitly, sometimes
not coming up for payment till many days had elapsed.
This prompt exchange on the presentation of a slip of
paper awakened their cupidity, and set their cunning
brains to work.
If one piece meant the gift of one knife, they
reasoned, then why not hand in half a dozen slips and
receive half a dozen knives. No sooner was the simple
plan thought of than it was put into practice.
When, shortly afterwards, Marshall was paying a
string of Papuans according to what was written on each
man's paper, four or five of the village loafers joined
the line, and with a calm and confident air handed in
three Lemco labels and two strips of the wrapping.
Great was the indignation and loud their protestations
at the unceremonious way in which their papers were
treated, but there was not a sign of embarrassment or
shame. The failure upset their calculations for a time,
but they were quite determined to have another try.
How we could have told the difference between one
paper and the other was the point that puzzled them,
and so they put their heads together, and the reasons
were thoroughly thrashed out. The result of their
deliberations was soon evident.
I had sent Wallaston a note, twisted in the form of
a billet-doux, requesting him to pay something to the
167
 WIFE BEATING
carrier. With this was presented a second paper
twisted in identically the same manner, and purport-
ing to come from me. Unfortunately, however, there
was nothing written inside. In spite of indignant pro-
testations and declarations that meant an axe head
it

to be given to the bearer, this great coup came to

nothing and to
; be turned out of camp with empty
hands, and to the music of ribald laughter, was heart-
breaking. After this failure nothing more was
—
attempted in the same line it looked so simple and
yet never bore fruit and as forgery was out of the
;

question, the idea of obtaining goods by this means

was abandoned.
What with profitless attempts to cheat, lying which
brought no ultimate gain, desertions on the road which
forfeited pay already earned, and lastly, stolen goods
which had to be restored, the savages at length began to
realise that it was better to be fairly honest and so to be
punctually rewarded, than to be permanently debarred
from sharing in the wealth which was slowly accumu-
lating in the huts of the steadier men of the village.
As their worldly goods increased the ferocious
brawls diminished in frequency, until there was very
little in the behaviour of the natives of which we could

reasonably complain. It takes more than a few months,

however, to change the nature of a savage, and brutality
was by no means uncommon amongst them. One day,
for instance, I saw a man rush at a woman, and with
one blow of his club fell her to the ground. Fortu-
nately the blow was a glancing one, merely lacerating
her scalp and knocking her senseless. But although
this deed was done in the midst of the community, and
witnessed by many, no one seemed to take the slightest
notice, until, ten minutes later, another woman crept
up to attend to the unfortunate victim. Ordinary
168
 OUR STEAM-LAUNCH
wife-beatings were of frequent occurrence, and during
the still hours of night the shrill cries of a woman in
pain often reached our ears. Still, on the whole, there
was a marked improvement in the general behaviour of
the community.
These remarks apply only to the Parimau and up-
river people, for the Wakatimi native remained to the
end as objectionable as he was in the beginning in fact —
he rather deteriorated. In his case increased wealth
meant a more slothful life and greater leisure to spend
time under the sugar-palms, getting drunk. Even the
headman, one of the best natives there and a man who
had been of great assistance to us when we first entered
the country, took so heavily to drink that he succeeded
in killing himself before we left the country.
In May I moved back to Wakatimi, to take my
turn at the never-ending transport work. This task of
trying to accumulate stores at Parimau appeared hope-
less with simple canoe transport, for the load of each
convoy was eaten up before the next supply arrived,
and it became evident that unless some form of
mechanical transport could be obtained, a definite for-
ward move was out of the question. We
had already
tried the experiment of working with a steam-launch,
borrowed from one of the relief ships, but it had re-
sulted in failure. The engine was of very low power,
and after a slight collision with a sunken log a mile
from the start, was unable to make any headway
against the current, whilst with laden canoes in tow
she actually lost ground. No shock of collision had
been felt, but the fact of the shaft being bent was suffi-
cient to show what had happened. After being floated
back to camp she lay idle for a month, and was even-
tually returned to the parent ship.
As the result of this experience the relieving ship
169
 A TRANSFORMATION
showed no eagerness to repeat the experiment, and
Goodfellow decided to cross to Dobo at the first oppor-
tunity to see if it was possible to purchase a motor boat
from the pearl fishers. Pending the arrival of this boat,
there was little to do except to search for some navi-
gable creek by which we could move from the Mimika
to another larger and more navigable river to the east,
a river which might afford an easier approach to the
mountains, and still enable us to use Wakatimi camp
as a base from which to draw supplies.
How Wakatimi camp had changed during the few
months I had been away in the interior ! Where,
before, nothing but primeval forest was to be seen,
there now stretched rows of neat, roomy huts and
fenced-in gardens, covering an area of three or four
acres these gardens were planted with all manner of
;

Indian corn, bananas, papayas, chillies, and other tropical

produce, systematically arranged and divided by neat
paths. Immediately behind the houses lay the open
drill field for the soldiers of the escort, and beyond this

—
the burial-ground Stalker's grave no longer the only
one there. Along the river front were the bathing and
washing pools, near which alligators, and now and again
a shark, would suddenly appear though they never
;

did any harm, their occasional appearance lent some

excitement to the soldiers' monotonous lives and sup-
plied them with a topic of conversation.
From the north end of the camp a strong, solid
pier now stretched far into the river, by means of
which boats were easily and expeditiously unloaded.
The houses, which were well built and airy, were all
of the same type, a framework of wood being covered
with pandanus leaves and matting the latter article
;

mostly made by a few industrious natives living in the

small village of Tourapaya, just north of the camp.
170
 THE "DREADNOUGHT"
Apart from the fact that the site was bad, being
nearly flush with the water, no camp could have been
better laid out, and the manner in which it had been
planned and built reflected great credit upon all who
were engaged in the work, and more particularly on
Cramer. The position itself was the only one possible,
for there was no elevated ground within the tidal area.
Had a site been selected farther inland, it would still
have been liable to periodic inundations, and on account
of the shallowness of the river would, moreover, have
often been beyond the reach of any launch sent by the
visiting ship.
This low-lying, swampy plain, which extends along
the coast almost from end to end of Dutch New Guinea,
is a serious drawback to successful colonisation, and will
constitute an almost insurmountable obstacle to the
progress and civilisation of the country.
With the object of looking for this inland passage
to the east, I one day took the largest canoe and four
men, and proceeded down stream to Atabo, the fishing
village at the mouth of the Mimika. was unsatisfac-
It
tory work, for though the men of Parimau told us there
was such a passage they could not show us the way, whilst
the men of the coast tribes flatly said the route we were
looking for was quite imaginary. For the journey I
used the Dreadnought, an immense canoe, originally
purchased by Marshall. So great was her beam that a
small camp bedstead could have been opened and laid
out inside, and as she had proved far too heavy for
convoy work on the upper reaches of the JNIimika, she
was mainly utilised for bringing stores from the coast
to Wakatimi, particularly when the ship's launch was
ready to lend a hand at towing. Tide and wind being
against us on this occasion, it took the whole day to
reach the mouth of the river, only four and a half
171
 QUESTIONINGS
miles away from camp. There, indeed, I was lucky to
obtain a view of the mountains entirely free from cloud
— —
a most unusual occurrence and was enabled to fix
the position of the snows and prominent peaks for the
survey. The outlook was grand in the extreme the ;

blue mountains, the snowfields, glaciers and pinnacles

showing up clearly above the dark green of the forest.
How beautiful they were but how distant Could
; !

we ever reach them by the road we were following ?

Would the coolies last out under the strain ? If so,
would they be able to climb those rugged peaks ? To
these and many other questions one's heart regretfully
answered " No." " You must return, reorganise, and
!
start afresh on some greater river to the east " But
was this possible ? At AVakatimi a town had been con-
structed, and in it were piled more than enough stores
to load a ship, much of it our own, but the greater part
belonging to the Dutch escort. Could we ask a gene-
rous foreign government which had brought us here at
great expense to take us back and despatch the whole
expedition afresh in another direction ? Was there a
reasonable chance of our being supplied with a suit-
able class of coolie ? Could fresh funds be raised, good
mechanical transport obtained, new food-stufFs pur-
chased, and another six months spent in reorganising ?
There was only one answer, " No " It was too much
!

to ask or to expect. For better or for worse we must

carry on where we were, making up our minds to
struggle on eastward through the forest and across the
foothills, to work at the survey and at the collections,
until the best that could be done was accomplished and
the snows approached as near as possible.

172
 CHAPTER XII
The village of Nime — An inundated village — A timely rescue — Barter and
exchange — Clubs — Strategy— Second trip up the Kaiqua
HAVING explored two or three creeks and found
that they only led into the heart of the man-
grove swamps, we entered a passage directly opposite
to the night's camp, and by far the largest and most
promising opening as yet seen. The tide was running
strongly against us, and with only four paddles at
work progress was very slow, when suddenly a canoe-
load of savages, appearing from nowhere, ranged along-
side, and the occupants taking it for granted that we
required their services, soon had the old Dreadnought
moving through the water at an undreamt-of rate. For
two miles or more we traversed a channel 300 feet wide,
running parallel to the coast, and then, turning sharply
to the south, entered an overgrown creek which had
nothing to distinguish it from hundreds of others lying
on either hand. After forcing a way for half an hour
through a tangled mass of branches, we unexpectedly
entered a landlocked bay, on the shores of Avhich is
situated the village of Nim^.
The village stretches along both sides of the bay, and
consists of several hundreds of huts which, on account
of the limited space available, are built so close together
that two or even three rows are required to house the
large population.
The excitement occasioned by our sudden arrival
was intense, the whole population at once taking to its

173
 THE VILLAGE OF NIM]fi
and fleeing to the jungle. Seeing, however, that no
lieels
other canoes accompanied us, the savages soon plucked
up courage and returned to the shore, the men placing
bunches of leaves in their armlets, and the women cast-
ing handfuls of sand into the air or flinging clouds of
powdered chalk out of hollow bamboos, in order to make
clear their peaceful intentions. Grounding the boat
opposite the most important cluster of huts where the
natives were collecting in large numbers, the Gurkha
Havildar, Mehesur Singh, and I stepped ashore and were
escorted to a shelter of leaves beneath which the head-
men had already assembled to greet the stranger. Here,
aftermuch solemn handshaking, I distributed amongst
the Natus (the head of each family) some tobacco,
and in return received a native cigarette made with
great care by the oldest man present the ice having
;

been broken by means of these courtesies, an animated

conversation was begun, the Papuans imparting what
news they thought I desired, and I doing my best to
make out what was said, both sides thoroughly enjoy-
ing themselves, and filling up an amusing half-hour.
Question them as I would, little of value was learnt
beyond the reiterated statement that there was no way
eastwards except by the sea route, and that nothing was
to be gained by moving further up the river Kaiqua, or
entering any of the creeks close at hand. The cigar-
ettes finished, I was shown round the village, accom-
panied by all the men and half the children, and sundry
uncommonly friendly pigs. This inspection over, our
next care was to find a camping ground. Though the
natives wanted us to stay in their midst, we did not relish
the proximity of the overcrowded village and, having
already seen a secluded and sheltered spot on the opposite
side of the bay, I declined their well-meant invitation.
174
 AN INUNDATED VILLAGE
A large fleet of canoes escorted the Dreadnought to
her new moorings, and many wiUing hands made light
of the work of clearing the ground on which we were
to camp, and assisted to set up the tents. It was indeed
fortunate, as turned out, that we had this sheltered
it

site, for had we stayed in the village we should have

suffered as much if not more than many of the unlucky

natives did that afternoon. Assisted by a strong south
wind, the tide rose to such a height that the waves
poured over the sandy spit on which the huts had
been built, demolished many of the walls, and carried
the sandy floors into the creek beyond. JNIost of the
upright poles even were washed out of the ground, and
with them fell the roofs. The wretched people took
refuge in their canoes, but were compelled to stand by
and witness the havoc wrought on tlieir homes, the
surrounding country being one vast mangrove swamp
without a foot of land being visible at high water.
Such events must be of common occurrence, and
as on this occasion there was nothing more than a
strong breeze, when a southerly storm biirsts I cannot
understand how any vestige of the village can remain
standing. The natives of Nime do not follow the
fashion of most other coast tribes in New Guinea, who
erect their habitations on piles, but why this is so we
could not discover. I believe I am right in saying that
in no other place along the entire coast is it the custom
to construct huts close to the ground sometimes they
;

are built on piles and sometimes in trees, but always in

a position safe from inundations.
Whilst watching the inrush of water through the
narrow entrance to the bay, a small urchin, splashing
about with many others, was carried off his legs, and
before any of the other boys could help him, was whirled
175
 A TIMELY RESCUE
out into the race. The alarm was given in a moment.
A crowd of women raced down the beach and tried to
intercept him by forming a string of hands, but he was
swept past them in a moment and out into the midst
of the tumbhng waters. Like all coast Papuans he was
a fine swimmer, but struggle as he would, he could do
nothing against the current, his one thought being to
keep himself afloat. It seemed that nothing could live
in the turmoil of seething water. One moment he
would be seen to spin round and round, the next to
vanish, and after a pause to come to the surface again
like a cork, until it appeared a marvel how any breath
could be left in the small body. Each time he vanished
I thought he was done for, but the little black head kept

bobbing up, to be followed by an arm raised appealingly

for assistance. No one on our side of the bay could do
anything to save him, as the canoes had all been berthed
in the creek behind help, however, w^as at hand.
;

From behind the village a boat shot out, driven like

an arrow over the waters, a brawny hand seized the
woolly pate, and an inert mass was dragged over the
side and out of danger. A crowd of women at once
carried him to his home, w^here he must have been well
looked after, for when presented to me on the following
day, he had quite recovered, and appeared much pleased
with his adventure. Had he been a girl, I doubt if they
would have taken half so much trouble to save him.
Whilst watching this incident the tide had invaded
our tent, but as we were in a sheltered position, this
caused little inconvenience beyond leaving the sea scum
over the floor, a very different state of things to the
rows of bare hut poles in the village opposite. As the
tide fell and their anxiety as to the security of the rest
of the village diminished, the natives visited me in
176
 BARTER AND EXCHANGE
hundreds, showing their hospitality and desire for
trading by bringing forward bananas, cocoa-nuts, &c.
Amongst the etcetera must be included the wives and
daughters, the men being most anxious that some of
their female belongings should stay with me and I ;

must say the damsels were in nowise backward in dis-

playing their charms and graces. They showed such
evident signs of disappointment at my refusal that had
I been tempted to live long amongst them, it would
have been difficult to resist a feeling of vanity. The
prices demanded were not exorbitant, and as no
business was doing, gradually dropped from a hand-
kerchief to a few beads. Darkness fell at last, and I
was left in peace.
The next morning the village was fully explored,
and a few odds and ends purchased. Papuans take a
great pride in escorting a visitor round their village,
and point out each object they consider of interest.
As may be imagined, a white stranger is followed
everywhere by an interested crowd of men and boys,
though the women as a rule content themselves with
inquisitive peerings from the interior of the hut and
from the doorways. They will trade away anything,
and one's approach is the signal for the whole of their
worldly goods to be slipped outside the hut, on the
chance that some article may catch the stranger's eye
and a sale be effected. Clubs are stuck into the ground,
spears leant against the roof, and bows and arrows, sago
dishes, and even human skulls laid out, so as to show to
the best possible advantage. After dusk is the usual
time for clandestine trading, the approach of the seller
being heralded by the customary deprecating cough.
At Nime the adoption of this time for doing trade
appears to be due to the fact that many of the natives
177 M
 CLUBS
are either not allowed to sell atall, or object to be seen

bargaining in the face of the whole community. What

we were then most eager to purchase were stone clubs,
weapons which do not deteriorate with keeping, as
happens so often when other native articles are bought
and put away for a few months in a damp hut.
Some rough kind of club was probably man's earliest
weapon, at first formed entirely of wood, to which later
on a stone head was fitted. Both kinds are used here,
but of the two the one made with the stone head is far
and away the most popular. The head may be of coral,
limestone, or sandstone, of a necessity brought from
great distances, as no stone of any description is to be
met with away from the mountains to the north. It
is with these barbaric instruments that quarrels are

settled, whether for wife-beating or for repelling the

attack of hostile tribes. Either as an outlet for their
ingenuity or to make the weapon more effective, the
large majority of the stone heads are carved so as to
leave projecting points or ridges, and when in the hands
of a powerful savage are engines of destruction by no
means to be despised. The heads alone weigh anything
between 4 and 8 pounds, and must take weeks to com-
plete. The iron imported by the expedition came as a
godsend to the manufacturers of these weapons, and it
was not long before the Papuans saw one of our steel
files in use and begged the loan of it for a short time.

The result was a weirdly-fashioned club-head and a

worn-out file. Further borrowings were discouraged,
and they had to fall back upon any scrap of iron or old
meat tins they could pick up around the camp. To
show how little they knew of the properties of iron and
steel, we saw a man one day trying to break a stone
with a good butcher's knife he had just earned by much
178
 Forcing the Canoes past the Ti.mher Blocks on ihe Mimika
These dams are to be found every few hundred yards from its source to within ten miles of the sea.

A Party of Patua.vs travelling fast on the Ka:',il'a Ri\er

With five or six men paddling, the canoes can be driven through the water as fast as or even
faster than the launch.
 STRATEGY
labour, and it was quite a common sight to see a carving
knife so chipped as to be nearly useless even on the first

day had come into the possession of its owner. Now

it

that we have left their country they probably appreciate

the value of the metal, but it is unlikely that they will
get any more for many years to come.
The next day a short journey up the Kaiqua River
confirmed the statement of the natives that it was use-
less as a route to the east. The river was but a large
jungle creek. With the crowd of canoes which hemmed
us in on every side fast progress was out of the question,
and the farther we got from Nime the less we liked
the behaviour of our escort. They became familiar and
noisy, jostling their canoes into ours, one or two of the
savages even trying to get on board. As there were but
five of us, three of whom were unarmed coolies, and as
nothing would have been easier than to upset the canoe,
in which case our weapons would have been useless, we
decided to return without giving warning of our inten-
tion. Waving the natives aside for an instant, the
boat was quickly turned, and before they knew what we
were after, was heading down-stream. I am not sure
whether these people really had any hostile intentions
or not, but the shout that went up at this action of ours
lent colour to the supposition. For a few moments they
were nonplussed at this unexpected move, and then,
either seeing that we were suspicious or that we had
some other plan in view, they paddled away for Nime
as fast as they could drive their craft through the water,
and thus it happened that on the return journey we
were deserted. We knew, and probably the natives did
likewise, that had disaster, either through accident or
foul play, overtaken us during any of these side expedi-
tions, no one in the world would ever have been any the
179
 SECOND TRIP UP THE KAIQUA
wiser. At any rate, when one has received a warning,
it isbetter to be wise before than after the event, and if
nothing of importance is to be gained by proceeding,
then why run an unnecessary risk ? We
again spent the
night in the village of Nini(^, and I will say this much for
the men, that their behaviour was otherwise exemplary.
Later in the year a second trip was made up the
Kaiqua, when it was found that the river, though pos-
sessing a splendid mouth, soon narrowed and became
an ordinary tidal creek. For twelve miles it was just
navigable for a small launch, and proved to be the high-
way to a small and flourishing village of the same name.
Not that it was inhabited at the time of our second
journey there were, however, so many evidences of its
;

being occupied during a considerable period of the year,

and such large areas of cocoa-nut and banana plantations
lay close around, that there was no doubt in our minds
that it must have developed at certain seasons of the
year into quite a populous place. On this second trip
two natives of Nime were taken as guides, and as they
showed no objection whatever to our going where we
liked, the desire to keep their inland village a secret
could not have been the reason for their peculiar be-
haviour during the first attempt to advance up the river.
When about to leave the country for good we found
out that their positive declarations as to there being no
creek running to the east were false a passage navigable
;

for canoes lies behind a low flat island near Nime, and
the natives frequently make use of it in order to reach
the Timoura River, by this means avoiding the sea
route. This channel was kept from our knowledge, for
the simple reason that they did not desire us to move
in that direction, as they feared to lose the monopoly of
our trade goods which they at present enjoyed.
180
 CHAPTER XIII
—
Coast and up-river natives The headman of Nime —A dignified character
— —
Native curiosity Photographs and pictures — Native drawings-
—
Novelty and amusement Scenery on the Atoeka—An albino — Buy-
—
ing a motor launch Collapse of a village — A miserable experience
—
Halley's comet An enjoyable change

jVrOT only in habits and manners but also in build,

-L^ and to a lesser extent in colour, there is a
noticeable difference between the coast people of Nime
and those of Parimau —the former typical representa-
tives of the coast tribes, the latter of the up-river
natives ; this in spite of the fact that but thirty to
thirty-five miles separate the villages, and that the alti-
tude is practically the same. Along the coast the skin
is almost invariably of a dull black colour the lead —
black of the stove without the shine, as it has been
described — whilst amongst the natives living at the
head waters of the rivers it is of a distinctly lighter
shade, more of a deep chocolate. The coast men,
though of immense strength, with bull-like necks, and
chests and arms of herculean mould, cannot compare
with the Parimau men for symmetry of build, activity,
or grace of carriage. Both physically and mentally
they appear to conform to a lower type, and, with
few exceptions, are brutish in face and figure. The
women are horrible, except when young, and even then
cannot be described as prepossessing, and it is hard to
see how either the Dutch or the missionaries can hope
materially to raise this race from their present depth
of degradation. Low as they may be, they are by no
181
 THE HEADMAN OF NIME
means on the bottom rung of the ladder, for the tribes
living farther to the east are of a still more depraved
type, and so savage that it is impossible to get on
intimate terms, or, in many districts, to approach near
enough even to converse.
Now and again one comes across a distinctly
superior type of man, as it were an oasis in the desert
of savagery, all the more noticeable by comparison
with the people amongst whom they live. Such a
one was the headman of Nime, the same who had
been taken aboard the I^ias on our first arrival in the
country. Of perfect proportions, with an intelligent
and pleasing countenance, a word of his carried more
authority than was the case with any other man along
the coast. He adopted the outer signs of civilisation
with as much ease as a sponge absorbs water, and com-
ported himself with such decorum that he was allowed
the free run of the base camp, and was never known
to abuse the privilege. His dignity was enhanced, so
he thought, by the adoption of a straw hat, a torn
khaki coat, a pair of worn-out trousers, and an old
pair of shoes three or four sizes too small, and unless
adorned with these dilapidated articles he rarely
approached our huts. Yet even when so disfigured,
he still retained a more imposing manner than could
be assumed by any of our half civilised coolies from
Amboina and JNlacassar. He would arrive unobtru-
si^'ely and sit down until we were disengaged, then
advance with a dignified step, raise his hat, and shake
hands. When the time came for him to take his
departure, he would again shake hands, place his right
hand over his heart, and retire to his canoe, there to
remove all vestige of clothing and become once more
the Papuan pure and simple.
182
 A Heahman
The headman of the coast town of Nimi^, and a good friend to the expedition. Behind is
Lieut. Cramer's house made of matting imported from Java.
 NATIVE CURIOSITY
His elder wife, the one with the highly-tattooed
back, occasionally used to pay a visit to the Malay
wife of the Dutch quartermaster, on which occasions
she would appear in a skirt of red trade cloth. Not
a word did either know of the other's language, but
this did not matter, as they were quite content to stare
at each other, without speaking, for hours at a time.
The chief'syounger wife was not permitted to take
part in these jaunts, possibly because she was by far
the best-looking girl in the district, and the more she
was kept in seclusion the better it was for the husband.
The Major (as this headman was called by the Dutch)
and his wife were born traders, and when business was
slack would wander round the camp begging with
an insinuating smile for any article which took their
fancy. —
Nothing came amiss tins, bottles, paper, old
rags and boots, all would have some value sooner or
later, and so were added to the piles of rubbish which
encumbered the floors of their huts. His own canoes
he would never part with under the price of two axes,
but if we wanted any belonging to another man he
would get them for us for an axe-head apiece and a
small present for himself.
Our visit to Nime brought another fact home to
us, namely, that if privacy is unwise
desired, it is

to camp in the close proximity of a village. One's

every movement is followed by an expectant and ever-
watchful crowd, and the people will follow one into
the jungle or peep under the flies of the tent rather
than lose sight of you for an instant. Some Avill smoke
on in silence, others will make sotto voce remarks about
whatever may strike them as out of the common, but
never for a single instant are those dozens of pairs of
eyes moved one inch away. Whichever way you may
183
 PHOTOGRAPHS AND PICTURES
look you will find eyes riveted upon your face, until
tired of the ceaseless scrutiny you invent something
to distract their attention.
For thispurpose the photographs proved a never-
failing source of amusement and interest, and though
only of quarter-plate size, were examined with shouts
of joy. Portraits were at once recognised, those of the
pygmies being received with jeers, and those of the
up-river men when shown to the coast people, or vice
versa, with scowls and mutterings of disapproval. The
subject of a photograph, if present, usually assumed a
sickly grin and would refuse to look. Pictures from
Country Life and other illustrated papers were sub-
jected to the minutest examination and, as may be
;

imagined, photographs of such things as horses and

cows caused much perplexity. Every animal had to
come under the category of dog, pig, wallaby or
cuscus, for it must be remembered that, with the
exception of these four beasts, the Papuans knew of
no animal greater than a rat. One could not help
laughing when the Derby winner was described as a
pig, or when some of them placed a Highland bull in
the same species as a cuscus, whilst others maintained
it was a dog. The kind of picture they thoroughly
disliked and feared were those of the genre of Caton
Woodville. Such for instance as a furious white man
armed with a spear riding a foam-flecked charger with
staring eyeballs and steam issuing from his nostrils,
and bearing down at full speed upon the spectator,
proved more than they could stand. With these
pictorial horrors of the outer world they would have
nothing to do, refusing even to touch the paper upon
which they were printed.
The crowning joy, however, was supplied by the
184
 NATIVE DRAWINGS
and the famous beauties
portraits of peeresses, actresses,
of England. The Ah ! of astonishment were
ah's
accompanied by thumpings of the chest and other ex-
pressions of surprise and joy. I hope these ladies will
not take it amiss that Marshall and I claimed them all
as our wives. The savages themselves first put the idea
into our heads, and as was obvious the mere sugges-
it

tion had caused us to rise immensely in their estimation,

we were shameless enough to fall in with their views
and to claim the lot. We divided them equally between
us, now and again awarding one to Wollaston (who was
absent), and naturally giving him the ones we admired
least.
The examination of these photographs led to an
exhibition of native draughtsmanship which, however
interesting in itself, was not characterised by much

the pictures being rarely equal to what could be

skill,

produced by an English child four or five years of age.

These drawing competitions usually took place at
Parimau, where, seated cross-legged on the floor the
natives would remain for hours absorbed in their work,
though, as Shortridge learnt later on, this industry was
in part assumed in order that they might, sooner or
later, obtain an opportunity of pilfering his skinning
tools when his back was turned. The objects which
they generally chose to illustrate were naturally those
with which they were most familiar, such as men and
women, dogs, birds and fish. The eyes of the human
beings were made large and round, the feet and hands
of immense size, each toe and finger being well separated
from its neighbour and drawn quite irrespective of the
correct number. As long as these points were well
marked and the position of the armlets and knee-bands
satisfactorily settled, other details of the body were
185
 NOVELTY AND AMUSEMENT
considered of importance.
little One could distinguish
in a moment what bird they were trying to draw,
whether hornbill, parrot, or crown pigeon, as they at
once picked out its particular characteristic and drew
the remainder of the bird around it. All four-footed
animals looked alike in their pictures though, curiously
enough, both birds and fish were often drawn upside
down. The reason for this we were quite unable to
fathom, as otherwise the men showed no signs of
astigmatism.
The works of a watch aroused much interest, but as
the thing was evidently alive, they did not consider that
there was anything very curious about its making a
noise. Likewise with the mechanical pig all pigs ;

walked, so why should not this one ? Now a Teddy-

bear is different this was an entirely new form of
;

animal, and of such alarming appearance that, with

bulging eyes and every sign of outward terror, the
burly throng recoiled several paces at the sight. An
aluminium basin Splendid ! Was there anything like
!

it in the world ? This must be passed round, weighed

and minutely examined balanced and patted, and again
;

weighed it was a never-ending joy.

: nasty thing a A
pistol !
—
it bored holes in trees, but shot no birds or

other food, and was therefore soon rejected. gun was A

quite different ; it certainly made a horrid noise till you
got used to it, but had the compensatory advantage
that it killed pigs and birds.
And so the game went on, full of novelty for them
and amusement for us. One day I tried them with
a form of food that was highly dis-
piccalilli pickles,
approved of; mustard was put in the same category,
and curiously enough so was salt, a commodity so
highly prized in other parts of New Guinea that the
186
 NOVELTY AND AMUSEMENT
natives will accept a teaspoonful as a day's payment for
carrying a load. The Mimika Papuan has so great an
aversion to salt in any form that, even when hungry,
and though it is offered as a present, he will refuse to
partake of salt fish. Tea was greatly appreciated ; but,
judging from their first and only experience, it may
safely be said that the natives will never take kindly to
whisky. At his own request I once gave a brawny
savage a tablespoonful of this latter beverage, his friends,
as was invariably the case when experimenting with
food, standing by to watch the effect. He was told to
drink it down and not to sip it, and as his
straight
mouth closed on the last drop his body became rigid,
and then appeared to swell, his eyes started from his
head, and with a slow and desperate air he grasped his
throat with a vice-like grip. " Ah Ah " burst from the
! !

lips of the spectators absorbed in the tragedy being

enacted before their eyes. To the uninitiated I can
well believe the performance proved a thrilling spectacle,
for as gasp followed gasp in rapid succession, tears
welled up to his eyes, his hands travelled from his
throat to his abdomen, while the look of terror on his
face grew in intensity. He departed a sadder but a
wiser man, thankful that the fell poison had not claimed
him as a victim.
Altogether they caused us infinite amusement when
not too talkative, but when they once became loquacious
the assembly had to be dissolved, for much talk, like
wine with some Europeans, caused them to become
familiar and bothersome.
On the 18th May, having accomplished all that was
possible at Nime, we returned to the Mimika mouth,
and as there was no immediate necessity for us to arrive
at Wakatimi, struck off to the west at the junction of
187
 SCENERY ON THE ATOEKA
the Atoeka and Mimika Rivers, and followed for a few
miles the stream traversed by Wollaston, Cramer, and
Marshall six weeks before. At a distance of three
miles we entered the Atoeka proper, and with the men
paddling hard covered another eight miles. The forest
here was of an entirely different description to anything
I had previously seen, for though the vegetation was
similar, yet the number of dead trees and the quantity
of cocoa-nut and tobacco plantations gave an open and
airy appearance to the whole. It seemed, however, to
be an unpopular spot, for neither a hut nor a native was
to be seen. The river began to narrow considerably,
and as it had the appearance of an ordinary jungle-fed
stream, we decided to camp for the night and to con-
tinue the journey on the following day, solely for the
purpose of adding to the map. At this moment three
canoes filled with paddlers from Obota overtook us, all
full of vociferous talk and questions as to why we had
passed by their village and entered this useless and un-
inhabited river. If we would only return and sleep at
their village, they would give us bananas, cocoa-nuts and
tobacco, as much as we required, and in addition would
paddle the canoe. So back again we went, thoroughly
appreciating the novelty of being driven rapidly through
the water without any exertion on our part. Turning
at the junction of the rivers, we were soon in a narrow
channel through which raced the muddy waters of the
Kapare. Passing between rows of huts lining both
banks of the river and accompanied by a crowd of
women and children, we drew up opposite an island
cleared of trees, and there pitched camp.
The men were as good as their word in bringing
fruit and tobacco, though, instead of offering them as
gifts, they demanded exorbitant prices. The supply
188
 AN ALBINO
being immense and the demand limited, there was soon
a regular slump and the canoe was half filled with fruit
by the expenditure on our part of a few hankerchiefs
and a handful of beads.
It proved to be a delightful spot. Acres of land
were thickly planted with bananas, over which rose an
occasional cocoa-nut tree, whilst up stream were nume-
rous tobacco plantations.
As the people were most anxious to show off the
advantages of their village as a place of residence, I
took the opportunity of thoroughly exploring their
homes and household goods, all of which were displayed
to the best advantage in the obvious hope that they
would appeal to us and lead to the clinching of a bargain.
The weapons and utensils were of the usual kind, added
to which there were dozens of human skulls grinning
from every doorway, things which at this period of the
expedition were not really required. Nevertheless
something had to be bought, if only for charity's sake,
for it was pitiable to watch the looks of disappointment
as the most cherished goods were passed by almost
unnoticed. One article caught my eye, a thing one
would leastexpect to find in this out-of-the-way place,
a large Chinese jar of considerable age, but upon the
value of which small store was set. It had been in pos-
session of the village for many years, so I was informed,
and had originally been brought over by the natives of
the Kei Islands, with which place these people seem to
be acquainted. I understand that the Kei Islanders do
occasionally visit these shores, which may account for
the various pieces of scrap iron found scattered through-
out the district.
It was at this village that the first albino, a pink
baby, was seen, though the parents were coal black.
189
 BUYING A MOTOR LAUNCH
Its skin was entirely free from the unsightly blotches
which formed so conspicuous a feature in the two other
albinos of the district whom we saw later on it might ;

have been taken for an European child but for the very
pale colour of its grey eyes.
The people were most averse to our departing for
Wakatimi on the following day, and with their arms
full of sago dishes, spears, skulls, &c. stood on the bank
attempting to drive one last bargain, until we were lost
to sight round the bend.
Six days later, that is to say during the last week in
May, a fresh attempt was made to discover the passage
to the east fate again ruled, however, that the Wania
;

should never be reached this way, as on our arrival at

the mouth of the Mimikathere, two miles from the
Zwaan, and approaching the
shore, lay the relief ship
harbour was her launch. I went on board, and whilst
the stores were being transferred to land enjoyed a
most excellent lunch with Commander Rothmeyer.
We were aware that the pearl-fishers at Dobo pos-
sessed two or three motor boats, and as the steam-
launch lent us by the Dutch authorities had completely
broken down, and Commander Rothmeyer being willing
to take us over to Dobo, we determined to seize the
opportunity and try to persuade the pearl-fishers to sell
us one of these boats. By hastening the embarkation
as much as possible the invalids, thirty-seven in num-
ber, were on board by daybreak the following morn-
ing and, together with Goodfellow and Shortridge
the latter of whom had been suffering from fever since
March, and was to go to Australia for three months to
recuperate —we sailed for Dobo.
How splendid it was to be at sea again, and to
breathe the bracing air after the fetid and malaria-laden
190
 COLLAPSE OF A VILLAGE
mist of the jungle !Hotels are unknown in Dobo, but
they are not required owing to the presence of those
hospitable Australians, the Clark brothers, Ross-Smith,
and Jessop, and others of the Anglo-Saxon race who
have created a valuable and flourishing industry in this
desolate possession of the Dutch. With them we stayed
a week, and whilst waiting for the return of the Zxvaan
purchased a ten horse-power motor boat, built of the
strongest timbers and fit, so we thought, to withstand
the hard usage with which it would meet.
We returned to New Guinea on the 6th June, to
experience anything but a pleasant landing, for the
south-east monsoon had broken, and wild surf was
beating on the bar. During our short absence eight
more men had fallen seriously ill. They were immedi-
ately transferred to the steamer, and with the departure
of theZwaan all connection with civilisation was severed
for many months.
As an additional impediment to progress, both the
Mimika and Obota rivers were found to be in full
flood. Trees, and often whole islands of vegetation,
were rushing down the stream, jostling each other in a
confused mass as the surging torrent swept onwards
to the sea. Though the land close to the coast was
under water, we little anticipated the unpleasant expe-
riences which we were to undergo at Wakatimi.
Already the surrounding country was inundated,
leaving the camp and native village as islands in the
midst of a vast timbered swamp the former preserved
;

for the moment by the dykes which had been thrown

up, and the latter by the accumulations of years of
household refuse. Slowly but surely the rise continued,
the drains filled and overflowed, and finally when the
retaining banks burst, the waters swept through the
191
 COLLAPSE OF A VILLAGE
camp. Faster and faster rose the river, causing
additional havoc every instant as it poured across the
peninsula in an irresistible rush for the sea. The
native village of Tourapaya, situated just to the north
of the camp, received the full force of the flood and
collapsed like a pack of cards. Theinhabitants com-
pletely lost their heads, and with loud cries and much
lamentation seized the more precious of their goods,
flung them into the canoes and paddled frantically
away. After five minutes they came back again for
one last look, and then away they went and vanished
for good, whither I cannot say. We were too busy
ourselves to pay much attention to what happened to
others, as all our efforts were concentrated in the
attempt to save our own precious goods, by piling box
upon box and case upon case. As luck would have it,
we had many stores and few men, and consequently
tons of valuable food-stufFs were ruined. Rice, beans,
dried meat, fish, trade goods, blankets, and other price-
less and irreplaceable articles slowly disappeared from
view, as the waters lapped over one box after the
other, completely destroying the contents. The floods
in Paris at the beginning of the year were bad enough,
but there the victims had upper stories to which their
more valuable goods could be removed for safety. We
unfortunately had no such place of refuge, and could
do little but wade around and protect the more perish-
able articles, and raise our camp bedsteads higher and
higher. For three days and three nights did the scene
of havoc and discomfort last, though our own particular
hut, owing to its being on ground slightly higher than
the rest, had never more than 2j feet of water over the
floor. So deep was the flood in places that parts of
the camp were unapproachable, and the hospital was
192
 Efi"ects of a Flood
The July floods brought down thousands of tons of debris similar to that on which the Papuans
are standing. On the left is a youth wearing a grass apron.
 A MISERABLE EXPERIENCE
completely isolated. It was perfectly miserable to have
to sit in the hut, with one's legs dangling in the
water, and watch every small article which could float
appear at one door, swish across the room and pass out
of the other, to join the vegetation sweeping down the
river. Basins, bowls, shoes, bottles, tins, all and sundry
joined in the race. Insects and all manner of creeping
things, driven from their dark corners and hidden re-
cesses, swarmed up the poles and walls, whilst along
the beams overhead scurried numerous families of rats,
caught in a trap from which there was no escape.
The whole country from the mountains to the sea
was under water, and so widespread was the flood that
the coolies, returning from higher up stream, instead
of as usual halting for the night at one of the regular
camping places situated at intervals along the forty-
seven miles of river, unable to find a vestige of ground
upon which to pitch their tents, were compelled to
come through without a break. To their great surprise,
for they anticipated that Wakatimi at least would be
comparatively dry, they sailed straight across the penin-
sula in the dark, over the football ground, and through
the doorway of their own sleeping house, where for the
first time for fifteen hours they were able to leave their

boat.
The whole affair was a most miserable experience,
and shows how hopeless it is to expect to make any-
thing much out of this country. This was the worst
visitation we had, but by no means the last.
—
Through it all and this will tell my readers the
—
month and the year Halley's comet flamed in the
skies. At no place in the world was a finer view to
be obtained than from where we were, and in the early
mornings when the sky was clear of cloud and the
193 N
 HALLEY'S COMET
flaming tail stretched from the horizon to the zenith
and even beyond, the effect was truly gorgeous. It
could not have remained unnoticed by the natives of
Wakatimi, for nothing escapes their sharp eyes, but
whatever they may have thought of the coming of this
celestial wonder, they gave no sign of surprise or alarm.
What must have terrified most savage races passed
without a comment and left them cold.
On the fourth day the waters commenced to subside
and fell steadily work was soon recommenced, and
;

the putrid fish and evil-smelling rice cast for ever into
the river.
The Mimika continued in full flood, but
itself
instead of being an obstacle to the upward passage of
the canoes, the depth of water now gave us a splendid
opportunity to test the new motor boat, and to see
how she would behave with six laden canoes astern.
The canoes were lashed together in threes, split bam-
boos keeping them rigid. On these rafts, well laden
with what had escaped the flood, the coolies lounged
in comfort, appreciating, if ever anyone did, the ad-
vantages of mechanical over manual labour. How I
too enjoyed the change Instead of being boxed up
!

for hour after hour in a space 1 8 inches by 36 inches, and

having to strain away at the paddles and making hardly
an inch of progress, to sit back in a roomy boat, watching
mile after mile of the banks slip by, was luxury indeed ;

whilst to know that large quantities of stores were

being brought on, to think of the amount of labour
saved to the men and consequently strength gained
against disease, and all the time to listen to the steady
thud thud of the engine, was to me the acme of
pleasure. The horrid toil with the paddle, we fondly
thought, was ended for ever, and little did we imagine
194
 AN ENJOYABLE CHANGE
that two more trips up the river were all that the
motor boat was fated to do. But that is another story,
and can wait for the present.
On the first day of journey we covered three
this
canoe stages, on the second two, and early on the
morning of the third reached Pariniau, all well. How
different to the former six days of incessant toil and
the heavy roll of invalids who used to find their way to
hospital after such a journey in canoes.

195
 CHAPTER XIV
Up the Wataikwa —A stampede of carriers — A toilsome retreat —Vicarious
punishment — Disappointing behaviour— New Guinea flies — The wet
season — Crossing the Kamura — The hidden baggage — Difficult survey-
ing — Alternative plans — The course of the Wataikwa— Pleasant specu-
lations — A precarious position — Cutting through the forest — Hampered
work —A turbulent stream — Hewing and cutting — Dense vegetation
Dreary work

MARSHALL, tired of awaiting our return, had

already left on an exploration of his own, taking
with him some Gurkhas and natives with provisions to
last three days. The party was lightly equipped, in
order rapidly to traverse the jungle beyond the Kamura
and carry on for at least another two marches beyond
the point where he and Shortridge had camped two
weeks previously. After spending the night at the
village of Ibo, where a canoe was borrowed from the
inhabitants to transport the baggage to the old camp at
the junction of the Puria, the boat was tied up and the
journey continued on foot. Having followed a branch
stream for a few hours, they emerged on to the banks
of the Wataikwa, a river which was found to have a
volume of water larger than any previously seen.
As a crossing was impossible by reason of the floods,
they then turned due north, and followed the bed of the
river for several miles into the mountains. So far every-
thing had gone well, but as a flood threatened and food
showed signs of running short, they decided to push on
no farther, but instead, to retire as rapidly as possible
and equip a fresh party to carry on the exploration well
196
 A TOILSOME RETREAT
into the mountains. The Papuan carriers seemed happy
and in the highest spirits at being able to return so
ample supplies of meat
soon, and were delighted at the
obtained from a cassowary which had been shot during
the march.
The camp was early astir and the loads packed and
distributed, when there took place one of those un-
accountable actions on the part of the native carriers
which rendered any distant travel out of the question,
unless some of our own imported coolies were of the
party. Without a word of warning or a sign of discon-
tent, the Papuan carriers walked unconcernedly into the
jungle and —vanished. At firstwas thought that their
it

absence was but temporary, but a thorough search

proved beyond a doubt that they had gone for good.
Marshall and his Gurkhas were now in a parlous
state four long marches from home, one day's rations
;

in hand, and eight indispensable loads to be carried to

—
Parimau. No time was to be lost every hour wasted
added to their difficulties. Each man took a double
load, and thus burdened they set forth on the return
journey through the forest, over the hill, and along the
flooded river. Between three and four miles were
covered that day, and with weary limbs and aching
shoulders they camped for the night on tlie bank of the
Wataikwa, at a spot where an overflow of the river
forms the source of the Kamura, and where some weeks
later a permanent camp was to be formed.
At daybreak they were once more on the move, and
by untiring perseverance carried everything to the spot
where the canoe had been left four days previous. Here
fate dealt them another blow —
the boat was gone no !

doubt carried off by the Papuans during their retreat.

This loss forced them to change their plans, for, laden
197
 VICARIOUS PUNISHMENT
as they were, without some assistance it would be im-
possible to reach Parimau before the food-supplies were
completely exhausted. Consequently everything not
absolutely required was cached in the jungle and well
hidden beneath branches of trees, since the eyes of the
natives are sharp, and a hunting party would be certain
to search the site of a recently abandoned camp.
With loads reduced to thirty or forty pounds in
weight, Marshall and his men stepped out manfully,
and with such good effect that by midday they were
within a mile of the village of Ibo. The savages of this
place, evidently cognisant of the desertion, turned out
in force, and by demonstrative signs of sorrow and grief
sympathised with the travellers, at the same time vow-
ing vengeance upon the deserters. Though not directly
implicated, they were of the same tribe, and were there-
fore partly responsible ; but as corporal punishment
could hardly have been given for acts they had not
themselves committed, they were made to carry the
loads without payment, a form of justice they appreci-
ated, if only because such a thing had never happened
before. In the end the deserters likewise escaped
chastisement, but in its place the information was
imparted to them that they would in future be re-
fused the run of the camp, that they would never
be employed on any manual labour whatever while
we were in the country, and that no fruit, canoes,
paddles, &c. would ever be bought from them again.
Later in the year some of these men, anxious to dis-
pose of their canoes and paddles, persuaded their friends
to sell them as their own but as from our camp every-
;

thing being made in the village could be seen, we knew

exactly to whom they belonged, and thus were able to
defeat the plan. It was quite amusing to watch the real
198
 DISAPPOINTING BEHAVIOUR
. owner in the peeping round the corner of his
far distance
hut to see how the scheme worked.
The behaviour of the natives on this last expedition
was most disappointing, as they, to all outward appear-
ance, had been perfectly contented with their loads,
food, and promised rewards. was obvious that for the
It
future they could only be looked upon as supplementary
to our transport force, more especially when working
within a few days' march of Parimau.
The enforced delay was not wasted. For INIarshall
and the Gurkhas a rest was imperative, and much food-
stuff, lately imported and thoroughly soaked by the
rain, had to be dried whenever an opportunity occurred
in order to prevent its complete putrefaction. More
huts were built, landing steps constructed, paths laid
out, the camp drained, and a hundred other things
done necessary for the maintenance of health. The
Parimau camp had by this time assumed the propor-
tions of a village of imposing dimensions, the upper half
being British, the southern half Dutch, the two together
extending for two hundred yards along the banks of the
river, and for eighty to one hundred yards into the
jungle. To provide space for these buildings more and
more forest was cleared, and with the disappearance of
the timber the mosquitoes vanished almost entirely from
the area enclosed by the boundary fence. On the other
hand, the blue-bottles increased and multiplied until
life became almost unbearable. They were simply
dreadful, and their persistent lust for laying eggs in our
food and clothes nearly drove us mad. The Egyptians
could never have been so plagued as we were, for if such
had been the case every Jew would have been massacred
at once. Of all pests, New Guinea flies are the worst.
Shortly after Marshall's return from his unpleasant
199
 THE WET SEASON
journey, Goodfellow and WoUaston arrived from below,
the former already beginning to feel the effects of the
fever, which had by this time laid a firm hold of him.
As a few coolies could be spared from the transport
work on the river, and nothing was to be gained by
as
all of us remaining at Parimau, it was decided that

Marshall and I should again set forth for the Wata-

ikwa, with the threefold object of improving the road,
of preparing a permanent camp on that river, and of
prospecting not only up- and down-stream, but also
into the dense forest beyond. My departure was
delayed for a few days by an attack of malaria, during
which time Marshall, with thirteen of our coolies and
a few natives, reached the Tuaba, and advancing, cut
a new and more creditable path to the Kamura, thereby
saving at least one day's march.
The wet season, if such a term can be used in a
country where it is but rarely fine, had now set in in
earnest, and the numerous streams which beset us at
every few yards had to be crossed by swimming or by
fording waist-deep. Still, what are a few drenchings

more or less during the day's march, when it is the

exception to be dry at any time ? During our first
year in the country we but rarely experienced the
luxury of dry clothes, and yet I can safely assert, that
not a single man in the whole force suffered from
a cold in the head. Presumably the catarrh germ does
not exist in the land.
Heavens ! how it rained ! Wollaston took the
trouble to keep an account of the wet days, and found
that during the first year rain fell on three hundred and
thirty days, and on two hundred and ninety-five days
was accompanied by thunder and lightning. Was
there ever such a streaming land ?
200
 THE HIDDEN BAGGAGE
The passage of the Kamura afforded an exciting
experience, and so deep was the water that I doubt
whether our cooHes could have accompHshed it without
the aid of the nativ^es. None of our men were burdened
with an excessive amount of clothing, but it is surpris-
ing what a difference even the scantiest garment makes
when battling with a strong current. A man carrying
a load on his head or shoulders has a better chance of
fording a rapid than one without, as the extra weight
often prevents his legs from being swept from beneath
him. When once across we were in a position to
appreciate the delightful change of our surroundings.
Broad, with a stony and sandy bed, the beautiful
Kamura sweeps between lines of casuarina trees, behind
which again grows the ranker vegetation of the forest,
with its tangled mass of creepers, vines and under-
growth. Every other large river in these parts is of
a similar character to the Kamura, with the exception
of the muddy, crooked, and tree-jammed Mimika, the
most useless of all rivers as a line of communication.
INIuch to the surprise of the Papuans, the baggage
previously hidden by Marshall was dug out of the
cache, and, to their intense disgust, piled on their backs,
as a slight punishment for the behaviour of their
relatives having basely deserted him a fortnight
in
before. The march was then continued to the Wata-
ikwa, where a site for a permanant camp was chosen
on a stony elevation an island when the river was
;

high, a peninsula when Great trunks of moun-

low.
tain trees lay around, brought down by former floods,
and as there was no signs of the river having lately
worked much havoc at this spot, it was considered
a fairly safe camping-ground for years to come. It
was, at any rate, a chance worth risking, if only that
201
 DIFFICULT SURVEYING
we might escape from the prison-like forest, away from
the mosquitoes and all creeping things, and the tainted,
fever-laden atmosphere of the jungle. However heavily
it might rain, however short the food became, or what-
ever discomforts were undergone by us on this river,
nothing could obliterate the charms of this our best
camp in New Guinea.
From our own particular island, and when the
mornings were clear, the mountains to the north were
clearly visible. It was, however, far from easy to
enter them correctly upon the map, as the jumble of
low hills, which stretched inland for many miles,
gave little indication to anyone in the plains of the lie

of the rivers and streams, and of how the hills were

situated with respect to one another. The Papuans,
a few of whomwere with us, had apparently no wish
to deceive us as to the topography of these parts, but
either their knowledge was very limited, or their replies
were in accordance with what they thought would
please us most, for we found that their information was
incorrect in every case.
Two courses lay open either to advance up the
:

bed of the Wataikwa and follow it far into the moun-

tains, and, if this promised well, to take it as the future
line of advance or, to cut a path through the forest to
;

the east on the chance that another large river might

be found, and one holding out better prospects of a
successful attack upon the mountains in the direction
of the snows. In either case more stores would be re-
quired so keeping two Gurkhas to cook and look after
;

the camp and four Papuans to carry the loads or cut

the proposed road, the remainder were returned to
Parimau.
Little did we imagine at that time that this camp
202
 THE WATAIKWA
was to be occupied for seven months, but then neither
did we reckon on the wet weather which was so often
and so continuously to put a stop to the work and
defeat every attempt to cross the river. In the same
way it was impossible to arrange for the food, and
particular difficulty was experienced in collecting a
sufficient quantity to enable another advance to be
made. The coolies, it was evident, were breaking down
and could not be relied upon to hold out much longer
under the present conditions but it was well to press
;

forward, as a fresh batch would certainly arrive, so we

believed, before the strength of the present men had
completely failed.
There was no necessity for keeping any coolies at
this camp, as four Papuans had been induced to take
up their abode with us by promises of an axe-head
apiece, to be earned by fifteen days' continuous work.
To their minds the reward was indeed great, for with it
the owner could buy a wife, the best to be found in the
land.
When questioned as to the lie and source of the
Wataikwa, they said it rose in the mountains (a very
evident fact), came from the east, followed the
that it

and then, turning south, flowed past

line of the foothills
our present camp. As this was quite contrary to the
flow of every other river yet met with, and because,
though just what we would have wished, it was the
most improbable course for it to take, we determined
to find out for ourselves. Feeling at length that we
really had a hold on the savages, now that they were
working for an axe, the opportunity of investigating
this river was too good to be lost. With sufficient
camping equipment and supplies for four days, we set
out up the course of the Wataikwa, keeping to the
203
 PLEASANT SPECULATIONS
drier portions of the bed ; we passed through a gorge,
and making rapid progress, entered the valley originally
seen by Marshall two weeks previously.
To do this the river had to be crossed dozens of
times, a by nomeans easy operation, with the rushing
water up to one's armpits.It was all right if at each
crossing we worked down stream, but the moment one
tried to battle against the current disaster inevitably
followed. We were now well in the hills, nearly five
hundred and amidst the most beauti-
feet above the sea
ful surroundings, with rounded slopes clad in every
species of tropical vegetation rising on all sides, while
up the valley rugged mountains could be seen, too
precipitous to scale, but still clothed wherever a shrub
could get a hold. Black and white cockatoos whirled
noisily overhead, and the spoor of pig, cassowary and
wallaby were to be seen meandering in all directions.
We were now far from the hunting grounds of the
natives, a sanctuary for game and a place where, to the
four-footed animals, man was unknown.
As we round the camp fire that night hopes ran
sat
high as to what the morrow would bring forth, since if
a cliff was found and scaled, the question as to the true
path of the river would be quickly settled and our
future route of advance determined one way or another.
Pleasant indeed was it to be seated before the crackling
logs and to speculate on the possibilities of the future.
How delightful were those fine evenings in the depth
of the New Guinea jungle —
made all the more precious
by their rarity —when
the flickering light of the fires
lit up the near branches of the enveloping jungle and
cast shadows of inky darkness beyond, when the
troubles of the past were forgotten, and all looked
rosy for the days to come.
204
 A PRECARIOUS POSITION
A wet afternoon heralded a fine morning, and just
as invariably vice versa, and so it proved on this
occasion, as when we rose the rain was falling in tor-
rents and the hills were blotted out with clouds.
Lightly laden we set out afresh, crossing and re-
crossing the river at every bend, more and more
hemmed in by impassable cliffs the farther we ad-
vanced. For two hours we kept up one continual
struggle in sheets of rain, being ever more closely
wedged into the river-bed until it became our only
road. Chilled to the bone, the work was continued
for one hour more, when a pool was reached, too deep
to ford and impossible to circumvent. The view ahead
was restricted to a blurred series of spurs of little value
in themselves, but sufficient to prove that the river
continued to the north, and was therefore of no value
as a line of advance to the eastern goal. Turning, we
made the best of our way back, and picking up such
articles as had been left behind in the morning,
struggled through to the plains. Our position in the
mountains had been a more precarious one than was at
that time realised, for though the retirement had been
carried out rapidly, we were only just free when the
river roared down in spate. Had the rise been more
sudden, or had it come down a few hours earlier, the
chances are that we should have been caught, and
jammed in as we were by cliffs, would certainly have
had to abandon the greater part of the baggage.
Our expectations of entering far into the mountains
had certainly not been fulfilled, and yet the journey
had been attended with a certain measure of success,
as it had exposed the lie of the river, and had taught us
its uselessness as a line of advance to the snows, and

this was really all that mattered to us then.

205
 CUTTING THROUGH THE FOREST
It only remained now for us to continue cutting
eastwards through the forest, on the chance that within
a day's march a new river might be discovered, one
which, at the least, held out some prospect of having
its source near the snows. The Obota, Mimika, Tuaba,
Puria, and Wataikwa had all been tried and found
wanting. It was that the longer we
fully realised
worked eastwards, keeping to the plains, the greater
would become the difficulty of feeding the working
parties as soon as they entered the mountains, with
the resulting drawbacks of the extra strain upon the
wretched coolies, and the increased danger of the ad-
vanced parties being cut off from their base by the
flooded and almost impassable rivers in rear.
There was, however, no choice in the matter if we ;

were to move forward this was the only possible route

to attempt, despite the labour it entailed and the
corresponding loss of time.
The working parties were hampered from the
moment of beginning the new work. The few days
of fine weather which had been experienced on the
way out from Parimau now gave place to rain. A
steady drift of mist and water-laden clouds rolled up
from the south-east, telling only too clearly that the
monsoon had set in for good. Day after day and
night after night the deluge continued, not the cataract
of the thunderstorm, but a steady, persistent fall that
seemed to have no end. Mist enveloped everything,
the mountains completely vanished from view, and the
river became impassable, so that all attempts to push
forward while these conditions lasted were abandoned.
Taking to our tent, Marshall and I did our best to keep
our feelings under control, each endeavouring to be as
little nuisance to the other as was possible, and from

206
 SIMPLE LIFE EXPERIMENTS
my point of view, a more excellent companion I never
wish to find. The only exercise vouchsafed to us con-
sisted of sloshy journeys undertaken into the dripping
jungle in search of food.
We were never burdened with an excess of clothing,
and the more it rained the less we wore, for it meant
the sooner we would be dry. In this warm, equable
climate, clothes are adopted for decency and not for
utility and this raises the question as to how many
;

years would elapse before a European forced to live in

this land of moisture would discard all clothing and live
as the native. With the exception of Wollaston, who
clung fondly to an ancient khaki covering, coats were
discarded from the first, then shirts gave way to a vest,
trousers to shorts, and in many cases boots and stockings,
except when actually in the forest, were considered
superfluous. With bare feet it is easier to keep a hold
upon water-worn boulders than when wearing boots,
and perpetual wetting in the former case matters not in
the least.
If what report says is true, a wealthy German of the
name of Englehart, with an enthusiastic following of
believers in the simple life, once tried the experiment of
living in the north-east portion of New Guinea clothed
as they were born, and sustained by the fruits of the
forest. The result was hardly what was anticipated,
for within a short period all, with the exception of the
leader,had passed to another world, or had been invalided
to their native land. It is only fair, however, to state
that it is believed the diet of cocoa-nuts was more re-
sponsible for the heavy mortality than the climatic con-
ditions under which they lived. Other instances of the
white man living the life of the savage are common.
One, an Englishman, I am told, took up his abode
207
 A TURBULENT STREAM
amongst a tribe of savages near Port Moresby, and
there lived, cut off from his compatriots, for many
years. He was well known, ifonly for the peculiar
dress he adopted —a grass petticoat, very full at the
hips, designed and executed by himself. He was
apparently held in high esteem by the natives, but in
the end suffered the death of so many white men,
being murdered by his quondam friends for the purpose
of obtaining blood of a higher quality than their own,
with which to consecrate the pillars of their new idol-
house and thereby bring luck to all within. We, on
this present expedition, never adopted the dress of
primitive man, but at the rate we were shedding
garments and the havoc wrought upon them by the
insects and the jungle thorns, it looked as if we should
soon be reduced to these straits, not from choice but of
necessity.
In an endeavour to maintain a link with the left
bank of the Wataikwa during the wet season, the
Gurkhas threw across a powerful cable made of rattan,
the ends secured to immense tree trunks washed down
months before. These trees had the appearance of being
fixed for ever, but the very first flood after the cable
was finished swept the trees and the connecting rope
out of existence, so far as we were concerned. It was
a flood of considerable height, and gave a vivid demon-
stration of how rivers change their courses and alter the
face of the country in the shortest periods. Whole
islands of vegetation, the result of landslides in the
mountains, swept past the camp at railway speed, while
acres of stony promontories, composed of massive
boulders, moved bodily across and down stream or
vanished for ever. In the midst of this turmoil our
own particular island, now completely isolated, lost
208
 HEWING AND CUTTING
large slices of its perimeter, but was saved from extinc-

tion by a mass of loose limestone rocks too great for

any flood to move.
A few hours of quietness and the river would fall
with the same rapidity as it had risen, when the oppor-
tunity would be taken to cross and continue the path
cutting. The line chosen was one which it was hoped
would just miss the broken slopes of the foothills. The
direction was kept by compass bearings, but at the best
it was a plunge into the dark, as nothing could be seen

of the country to the east except the edge of the forest

lining the left bank of the river. There were eight of
us all told who were available for the work, and on
account of the exhausting nature of forest hewing and
cutting the party was divided into two, working on
alternate days. Progress was necessarily spasmodic, as,
in addition to the oft impassable river, men fell sick and
there were none to replace them, but wet or fine the
work, as long as there was the slightest chance of head-
way being made, was carried on without intermission.
As one man tired or his hands gave out by reason of
blisters or soreness, his place was at once taken by
another. Over and over again were we compelled to
abandon portions of the road as some particular spur or
ravine, lying at right angles to the line of advance,
defied all efforts to construct a practicable path for
coolie transport. We had entered a rough and hilly
country strewn with moss-covered boulders and seamed
with nullahs covered with an impenetrable mass of
the closest and toughest of timber. The density of
this growth almost passes belief; through it no man
can force a way unless with an axe in hand, and as
the majority of the trees are of the hardest wood, the
stems varying from four to eight inches in diameter,
209 o
 DREARY WORK
and clothed from top to bottom with water-laden
earth hidden beneath a cloak of moss, progress at
times became impossible.
An idea of the labour entailed in the task of clearing
a two-foot path through this forest may be judged by
the fact that a stretch of five thousand yards required
three weeks' incessant work before a man could pass
along without brushing the stems. On one day two
cutters accomplished a length of two hundred and ten
yards, and on another, when I was working by myself,
all I could add was a piece of ninety yards in length.

More unprofitable and dreary labour cannot be im-

agined, as except for the occasional shrill cry of the
Greater Bird of Paradise and the Rifle Bird, not a
sound broke the stillness of the forest. Both birds
were to be commonly heard upon the confines of this
dark and gloomy haunt, but even they would seldom
venture into the heart of the densest growth. Only
on the rarest occasions were they seen, and then but for
a moment as they darted from one secluded spot to
another.
Snakes abounded, some poisonous and others harm-
less, w hile all the time mosquitoes buzzed around and

leeches prowled over one's clothes in search of a succu-

lent piece of flesh.

210
 CHAPTER XV
— — —
Cheerless prospects Shattered hopes Ill-used Gurkhas Fresh stores
— —
A bolting gun-bearer Birds of paradise Return to the Wataikwa
—
Difficulties of surveying Photographing the natives

ABOUT this period I ceased to keep a diary. The

daily failure to find a possible routewas suffi-
ciently disappointing without recording the want of
success in writing. Three weeks' wearisome labour
at cutting and hewing resulted in the completion of
three miles of the narrowest and roughest of tracks.
Up hill and down, in the vain effort to find an easier
route or to work on a more level plain, the narrow
road was slowly pushed forward, without being re-
warded by a single glimpse of the mountains or of a
greater distance than twenty yards ahead. Can this
forest, with its horrible monotony and impregnability,
be equalled by any other in the world ?
As failure followed failure our spirits fell, and
conversation, as we sheltered from the pouring rain,
turned on the probability of our never reaching our
goal. With barely room to move, with the fetid
air of rotting vegetation to breathe, the hum of mos-
quitoes the only sound, and with the most limited
range of visions, the prospect was as cheerless as it
well could be. To make
matters worse, the food-
supply was running dangerously low, and the dwind-
ling number of coolies arriving by each convoy from
Parimau barely sufficed to bring enough food to last till
the next visit. The Wataikwa was in continual flood,
211
 CHEERLESS PROSPECTS
rendering the daily crossings not only dangerous, but
a particularly unpleasantway of starting a day's work
in the jungle. Every now and again, so fierce would
be the current racing past the camp, that fording be-
came an impossibility and work had to be abandoned
for the time. Over and over again was the road
paced, first on going out in the morning and then
again on the return, until it was recognised that the
path had so lengthened that the journey backwards and
forwards to the head of the clearing entailed as much
labour as the actual work itself.
By 6th August three miles of the road were finished,
and it was realised that this plan of starting forth each
day from the base camp on the A\"ataikwa could no
longer be followed. The Gurkhas, together with the
three Papuans who were still with us, were therefore
despatched with a light camp outfit to the farthest
point reached, there to remain and cut the path for-
ward till the Iwaka should be met with. As it
happened, this decided the question whether we were
to get through to the east or not, for hardly had two
hours of work been completed on the following day
when the forest thinned. Pushing forward rapidly
they came within sound of the river, and guided by
the noise were soon able to reach its banks. The
pioneer party returned to their jungle camp at once
and prepared to push forward at daybreak.
The first intimation we received of the success was
the sudden arrival that night of the three Papuans.
They looked as pleased as Punch, and in one breath
informed us that the Iwaka was found, and to verify
their story produced a bunch of casuarina twigs (a tree
only to be found on the banks of the largest riv^ers),
adding at the same time the false report that they
212
 SHATTERED HOPES
had transported the whole of the camp kit to the new
river, and that their work being completed, they had
been sent back by the Gurkhas. We
were delighted
at the news, and congratulating ourselves that at last
we had found faithful and trustworthy men, paid tliem
accordingly and dismissed them to their homes. Alas !

our hopes in this respect were quickly shattered.

Starting alone at daybreak, in three hours I reached
the forest camping ground, which I expected to find
cold and dreary, but where to my surprise the fire
was found to be still Pushing rapidly along
burning.
the freshly-cut trail, the Gurkhas were soon found,
each man staggering under a load as heavy as him-
self. Their tempers were not of the best, and had
the natives then appeared I would not have answered
for the consequences. From them I learnt that the
wily Papuans, without saying a word, had slipped away
the night before to avoid the labour of carrying the
loads to the Iwaka, and to receive full pay for work
not yet accomplished. They had rightly reckoned
that we could not at once verify their story, and know-
ing that we paid immediately on the completion of
any task, had determined to risk the lie. For the time
they had the better of us.
Into my sympathetic ears the tale of woe was
poured by the ill-used Gurkhas, after which outburst,
their feeling's beinsr somewhat relieved, the loads were
readjusted and within two hours we were upon the
riv^er's banks, gazing at a yellow-stained torrent as it

raced between stony shores. The volume of water

coming down was about equal to that of the AVataikwa
or Tuaba, but offered a far more serious obstacle to a
passage, as instead of dividing into many channels,
each of which might be crossed in turn, it was here
213
 FRESH STORES
confined to a single bed seventy to eighty yards in
width. In such a current no canoe could hope to live,
and fording was out of the question. The forest grew
right down to the water's edge, and as far as we could
see there were no shoals or branching streams.
A site for a new camp was soon chosen, and leaving
instructions for a thorough search to be made for a
ford, I returned to the Wataikwa, dead beat.
During my temporary absence Goodfellow had
arrived, bringing with him a welcome supply of fresh
stores which had just arrived from England, and of
such a tempting appearance that the case had to be
opened then and there. Parimau natives had brought
out Goodfellow's stores, as none of our own coolies
were free for transport work in the forest. As usual
the l^apuans were in a wild hurry to return to their
wives, but a judicious bribe on the following morn-
ing induced them to carry my kit over to the spot
where the Gurkhas were camped, the loads weighing
almost nothing, as my tent had vanished into dust
weeks before, of such indifferent material had it been
made, and I was trying the experiment of sleeping
under whatever the inhospitable jungle would provide.
A leaf hut may be artistic, but it is a most uncomfort-
able habitation in heavy rain.
My object in moving to the Iwaka for a few days
was to try and discover a ford or some means by which
the river could be crossed. Three days were spent in
the search but without success, the river being a torrent
without a sinsrle branch which would have divided the
volume of the waters. Four or five miles was the
farthest point reached up-stream, as the natives flatly
refused to carry the loads a step farther or to surmount
the smallest hill. Some great fear seemed to lay hold
214
 A BOLTING GUN-BEARER
of them whenever such a thing was proposed, but
exactly what it was they were afraid of we never could
tell.

For a few moments one day I thought I had over-

come their objection to climbing, as after a little per-
suasion the native who was carrying the gun agreed to
clamber to the summit of a small 100-feet landslide.
An excellent but limited view was here obtained, but
before I had got properly to work with the glasses a
clatter of stones drew my attention elsewhere. My
brave carrier was racing down the hillside, leaping over
the hollows and fallen timber in his anxiety to reach
the bottom, where, regardless of our appeals, he dashed
into the undergrowth and vanished. The sound of
breaking branches told only too clearly of the wild
career that was being urged forward. His flight would
have mattered little had he left the gun behind, but
reasoning that with this weapon in our hands he might
be shot and that if he carried it along with him we
could do no possible harm, he had enough cunning to
realise which was the safer course. To lose the gun
in this way was quite annoying enough, but it was
particularly vexatious at this time, as on it depended
the entire supply of meat.
On arrival in camp some hours later the first thing
that caught my eye was the gun leaning against my hut
and the faithless carrier squatting close by, an appeas-
ing grin spread over his features. He was not in the
least abashed at his behaviour, and attempted no ex-
planation to this day I have not the slightest idea why
;

he bolted, as he had been asked to do nothing extra-

ordinary, and must have known that he would lose his
pay for that day's work at least. To punish them all,
as no one seemed in the slightest concerned over the
215
 BIRDS OF PARADISE '

matter, the nightly ration was stopped, much to their

disgust. The lesson was not as effective as it might
have been, as on the way home we had killed a twelve-
foot python. It was discovered lying along a branch of
a tree, its head hanging down a foot or two, ready to seize
whatever might pass beneath. It might have been dead
for all the notice took of the stealthy approach of the
it

Gurkha who, with one swinging blow of a pole, broke

its neck. Two natives had remained below when the
faithless gun-bearer had bolted, and these seized greedily
upon the snake, severing its head from the body with
the sharp edge of a piece of split cane. Even after the
removal of the skin the great body turned and writhed
amongst the rocks, and not till it had been cut up in
pieces a foot long did the contortions cease. To make
my punishment still less effective the Papuans sallied
forth at dusk and added a repulsive-looking iguana and
a dozen prawns to their unappetising meal.
During our absence the other Gurkha had been out
with the small collecting gun, and had the good fortune
to see many of the glorious Greater Birds of Paradise
dancing in the trees to the south of the camp. None
were shot, as the range was too great, but he had had the
satisfaction of watching for many hours this fascinating
display of plumage. On one tree alone nine cocks were
dancing and on another tree five, the hens perched on
the branches round about and egging them on by a
succession of piercing calls. These splendid birds were
here very numerous, and as they showed no fear of man,
gave to the onlooker beneath the tree a most delightful
exhibition of their methods of courtship.
Birds of Paradise have been known to Europeans
for many centuries, and in the olden times were
believed, by those who visited the island, to have no
legs and to live continually in the skies. This idea was
216
u

Greater Bird of Paradise

Throat green ; crown orange-yellow ; breast, wings, and tail chestnut ; and long flank feathers
of the richest golden yellow.
 RETURN TO THE WATAIKWA
impressed upon the travellers' minds by the fact that
the skins, purchased from the savages with whom they
came in touch, had already had the legs removed, but
for what reason no one knows perhaps it was because
;

the large and rather ungainly feet detract from the

perfect beauty of the bird/
Hundreds of these skins are exported annually from
New Guinea and the Aru Islands, althougli in the latter
place so indiscriminate has been the slaughter that the
trade had diminished by 90 per cent. When it is remem-
bered that the female lays only one egg during the
nesting season, and that the males do not come to full
plumage until three years of age, it will be seen that
unless the sale is entirely prohibited in the future, the
extinction of this exquisite bird merely a matter ofis

time. No more beautiful sight can be witnessed than

that of a full-grown male, with his great yellow breast
plumes passing upwards between the outstretched wings
and forming a quivering arch over his body, dancing up
and down before the female, and doing his utmost to
win her heart.
Had we stayed longer the natives would have de-
serted, so packing camp on the third day we passed
back to the Wataikwa, Marshall having already returned
to Parimau, to which place I soon followed him, as our
one idea now was to accumulate stores on the Wataikwa,
and the fewer mouths were there to feed the sooner
would the work be completed. Goodfellow had to
remain behind suffering from fever. The change of scene
had done him no good but as this camp was looked
;

upon as the healthiest in the district, it was better that

he should stay here than live in the closed-in forest.
While on tlie \^^ataikwa and Iwaka rivers the
survey, except for plane-table work, had been almost at
* Its name Paradisea Apoda is sufficient to prove this.

217
 DIFFICUI/riES OF SURVEYING
a standstill, as the mountains were never seen, and the
journeys had been confined to the forest.
To those who know not the obstacles and difficulties
encountered when carrying on a survey in the densely-
timbered tropics, and particularly to those who in the
years tocome will enter New Guinea for the purpose
of mapping her unknown mountains, rivers, swamps
and snows, I will mention a few of the more important
points which were for ever being impressed upon us
while working in the Mimika and adjacent districts.
The rainfall is heavy throughout New Guinea, but
on account of the proximity of the highest peaks of
the central range, it is probable that the fall in the
Mimika district is in excess of that in any other area,
fewer opportunities being thereby offered for the taking
of astronomical observations. No chance, however
fleeting,must ever be missed.
In the year 1910 no star was visible from early
in March to the end of May; and again, from 10th
June to the third week in October, at no hour of the
day or night were the heavens free from an impene-
trable pall of clouds. During the remaining months
and evenings, and clouds
rain fell daily in the afternoons
covered the mountains within an hour or so of daybreak.
Under these conditions, and with the sun, when on the
meridian, nearly overhead, it can be realised how hard
it was to obtain accurate astronomical observations.

The theodolite and plane-table must be in position by

the time the sun's first glow is to be seen in the east,
and the work taken in hand immediately the prominent
points can be clearly distinguished. Any delay over
this and the opportunityis lost, not to recur for another

twenty-four hours. One may in the early mornings

obtain a clear view for a period ranging from a quarter
of an hour to an hour and a half rarely longer.
; These
218
 DIFFICULTIES OF SURVEYING
drawbacks however, by no means the most import-
are,
ant, the cliief obstacle of all being" the density of the
forest and the impossibility of finding in the plains any
elevated point from whence a view can be obtained.
The only practical positions vouchsafed by nature
throughout the plains are any spits of sand running out
to sea and a straight stretch of river. The former
allows of a wide view, but too distant for accurate detail
except where the peaks show up against the skyline the ;

latter position a restricted range of vision, seldom con-

taining more than two or three of the required points.
It therefore behoves the surveyor to construct some
vantage point from whence a clear view may be obtained
to all the peaks required. To do this the forest must be
cleared, a feat only to be accomplished after months of
strenuous and persistent work and it was this plan
;

that we adopted. A
measured base line is out of the
question, for even if a thousand feet line was cut, two
—
more would still be necessary one from either end to-
—
wards the points to be fixed and even then they Avould
be unlikely to bring within view more than one or two
of the mountain peaks. The plan adopted by us was
as follows.
AV"e took the longitude, as assumed by the Dutch
authorities, at the mouth of the Mimika, where a con-
venient spit of sand ran far out to sea, and there
obtained the latitude and the azimuth of Tapiro Peak.
That was simple enough ; now came the difficulty of an
artificial clearing. At Parimau, distant twenty-one
miles in a direct line from the coast, it was early realised
that the forest could be levelled in the vicinity of the
if

camp, a view of the entire range of mountains to the

north and east could be obtained, and for this purpose
every available coolie and every savage who could be
persuaded was put on to the work of felling trees.
219
 DIFFICULTIES OF SURVEYING
For five months the cutting continued, sometimes
with only three or four men working, at other times
twenty or more, and never a day passed without the
crash of faUing trees breaking on one's ear. In all four-
teen acres of the densest forest vanished, giving as we had
hoped a full and perfect view of Carstensz and almost
the entire Nassau Range. Here the latitude was
obtained and the azimuth of Tapiro Peak taken. To
ensure great accuracy the astronomical and triangula-
tion work was done over and over again, and on this
base of twenty-one miles was the map built up.
Heights were found by theodolite vertical angles.
Plane-table work was carried on where and whenever
a chance offered, sometimes hardly a line being added,
at others a few square miles, until at length the work
was finislied. The rivers were plotted from the angles
taken by the prismatic compass, the distances being
judged by eye, a very satisfactory way, after a little
practice. The instruments had been supplied by the
Royal Geographical Society, and were of course of the
best description, but a lighter plane-table would have
been preferable under the circumstances in which we
were placed.
In a country such as this, where every pound of
weight alters the speed and the distance covered, the
lightest surveying equipment should be used. Reeves'
Distance Finder Telescope and Astronomical Compass
were invaluable. I have heard, but cannot vouch for
the truth of the story, that the Dutch expedition work-
ing to the east of us had the fortune to find a single
flat-topped hill bare of vegetation upon which a base
was measured, but if this is so, the case must be unique
in the island of New Guinea.
Photography was likewise much hindered by the
clouds and the excessive rain. Sunlight was almost a
520
 PHOTOGRAPHING THE NATIVES
necessity on account of the difficulty of obtaining con-
trasts of light, as figures with the dark jungle as a
background showed up most indistinctly. The moist
air played havoc with plates and films alike, and com-
pelled us not only to expose the plates immediately
they were placed in the camera, but to waste no time in
developing them.
It was not till we showed them the picture reflected
in the " finders " that the Papuans comprehended at all
the use of the black boxes which were always being
carried about but they were quick to learn that when
;

the lens pointed towards them it was for some particular

purpose, and to this many offered strong objection,
scurrying to their huts like a lot of rabbits as soon as
the camera appeared. I can only assume that someone

who had been ill suddenly became better after having

had his portrait taken, as all at once, instead of running
away they actually placed themselves in front of the
camera and assumed extravagant postures of their own.
Once when Marshall was working the cinematograph
and I was holding two terrified babies in my arms to be
photographed, instead of the women being frightened,
every mother rushed off for her offspring and dragged
the screaming youngsters towards us, begging that they
might take their turn and be treated likewise. After
they had seen a few of the ordinary photographs of
their friends, they were more difficult to take in natural
positions, and would pose themselves in such awkward
attitudes as to render any portrait valueless. An indi-
vidual selected for a photograph would adopt an air of
superiority over his comrades, and when he had learnt
what was required would remain perfectly still till all
was finished, maintaining throughout the operation
such a self-satisfied air as to annoy his friends and put
a stop to further work for the day.
221
 CHAPTER XVI
Floods at Parimau — A burial— Depressing circumstances — A successful
clearing — Natives' idea of supply and demand—Mosquitoes and leeches
— The value of medicine — Mortality of the expedition —Beri-beri
Malaria

ON reaching the Mimika it was clear that a storm of

exceptional violence had but lately swept down
the valley, all the more remarkable from the fact that
nothinsf unusual had occurred on the Wataikwa, a short
eighteen miles to the east. For the two previous months
rain had fallen every day, and nearly all day, and though
much damage had been done to the banks of the river,
no one dreamt that any flood could possibly reach
the floors of our Parimau huts, situated as they were
fifteen feet above the ordinary level of the water.
So exceptional, however, was the downpour on
18th August, that not a single foot of the country re-
mained above the level of the overflowing rivers. At
10 P.M. the storm, which had been brewing amongst the
hills, burst over Parimau, and developed into a regular
cataract of faUing water at midnight. From now
onwards the incessant peals of thunder put sleep out
of the question. The black eddying river, lit up by the
vivid flashes of lightning, could be seen gliding irresist-
ibly past, its surface covered with uprooted trees hurry-
ing towards the sea, giving forth no sound but the
insuck of the whirlpools, and the muffled splashes of the
undermined banks as they fell forward in great slices
and vanished from sight. With the roar of the elements
222
 FLOODS AT PARIMAU
were mingled the terrified cries of the Papuans in the
village opposite. Already the waters were over the
floors of their huts, whilst, by the flickering light of the
torches, ghostly figures could be distinguished working
wildly to save their stock of worldly goods.
The continued with alarming rapidity.
rise
Into the canoes which were now floating alongside
the huts were cast every animate and inanimate object,
including the dying headman of the village, whose ster-
torous breathing could be distinctly heard across the
river. With their more portable goods safely afloat,
the frenzied men turned their attention to saving what
they could of the houses, by lashing the strips of mat
roofing to the tree-trunks or casting them into the
branches overhead. As the storm slackened and black
darkness took the place of the blinding flashes, so the
cries of the panic-stricken natives increased. Nothing
now could be distinguished in the gloom, and no reason
could be given for the new outburst of fear, until, by
the light of our own flickering candles, the water was
seen to have risen over the top of our bank and to be
flowing through our own huts, proving only too clearly
that the native village was entirely submerged.
Our own bank was crumbling so rapidly that the
walls of our huts threatened to collapse at any moment,
since the supports were resting upon nothing but the
projecting roots of trees felled long previously. With
what anxious eyes we watched the tottering beams, pre-
pared at a moment's notice to run for it should the land
begin to This last action, however, proved un-
slide.
necessary, as soon afterwards the water began to fall,
until by daybreak five or six feet of our bank were bare.
On the opposite side, which, as I said, was considerably
lower than ours, not a square foot of land was visible
223
 A BURIAL
the village had completely vanished, and where it had
once stood floated a dozen overladen canoes.
The dawn was ushered in by a chorus of wails, for
the natu had departed to a better world, his end no
doubt hastened by the terrors of the past night. Poor
old man, he had been expected to die days before, and
so certain were his friends that it was but a matter of
hours, that they had already dug and prepared his grave.
To find a landing-place, some of the more energetic
natives set out with their canoes along the outskirts of
the forest, but soon relinquished the task as hopeless,
and returned to their old anchorage in the trees. The
canoes presented a weird appearance, piled high as they
were with a miscellaneous jumble of kerosene tins,
women, weapons, and rags, while over all scrambled
the babies and dogs. With the coming of the daylight
of a disaster vanished, the spirits of the natives
all fear

regained their phlegmatic calm and, before an hour had

passed, fires were burning in the stern of each canoe and
the eternal sago-balls were blackening on the embers.
It was a sad scene all the same, and all the more
depressing by the continual waihng of the dead man's
relatives. Later on in the day, when the land was once
more exposed, the body, wrapped in leaves and bits of
old matting, was placed on a platform which had been
hastily erected close at hand, and the people, dispensing
with what little clothing is customary, plastered them-
selves with mud and mourned to the setting of the sun.
On this platform the corpse remained for two days, and
was then transferred, firstly into a canoe-shaped coffin,
and then into a ncAvly-dug grave. Although placed
two or three feet below the surface of the surrounding
ground, the coffin was not closed, nor was the grave
filled in. Fresh obsequies attended the removal, and
224
 N

A Pairiarch
The oldest man of the up-river tribes, who, on account of his age, wielded
a wooden instead of
a stone club.
 A BURIAL
since the dead patriarch was a man of influence, more
riteswere paid him than is usual in these parts.
For the first time since the death the deceased's
wife and sister appeared, and, in the same state of nudity
as the more distant relatives, crawled on hands and
knees to the place of interment. As far as we could
make out, their duty was to turn over the body daily,
with the supposed object of hastening decomposition.
Painted and decorated posts were erected at the head
and and the whole fenced in. From
feet of the grave,
time to time on arrival and departure demon-
visitors
strated their respect for the deceased by the usual
lamentations at the grave-side, occasionally adding
vines and fresh branches to the already tliickly-en-
twined railings, in very much the same way as wreaths
are brought to a funeral in England.
The grave was never filled in, and though the
stench from the decomposing body was terrible, yet no
disgust was shown by the natives living close at hand,
nor were the cooking and usual household arrangements
interfered with in any way.
The new village was fated to stand but a short time,
as ten days later a fresh storm swept over the valley,
fortunately of not quite such severity as the last, but
still sufficient to destroy the whole of the newly con-

structed huts. By the end of August the solid land

in front had vanished, and the once broad and airy
village had shrunk to a slender line of hovels, balanced
upon the edge of a crumbling bank. The natives
themselves, used I suppose to this kind of treatment,
took no trouble to save what little land had remained,
and never ventured to copy the retaining wall of
timber Ave found it necessary to erect to prevent our
own houses from toppling into the river.
225 P
 DEPRESSING CIRCUMSTANCES
At heart we were as depressed as the natives, for
without fresh coolies we could do nothing. Nineteen
tired men were all we now had in the country, a quite
insufficient force to move us even one march into the
hills, let alone the main range lying many miles behind.

Months of inactivity stared us in the face, months

during which one's strength would continue to diminish,
together with the crushing knowledge that our goal
was receding farther and farther into the dim distance.
The one bright spot was the welcome supply of fresh
stores from England, and of this the pleasure afforded
can only be appreciated by those who have suffered
from the want of the bare necessities of life, or who
have existed upon tinned herrings and salmon for
months on end.
With this supply of good things came Shortridge
back from his trip to Australia, to all outward appear-
ance quite recovered from his severe bout of malaria,
but, that the germs of this disease cannot be so rapidly
eradicated from the system, was soon shown by fresh
attacks which took place within three weeks of his
landing. There also arrived Mr. C. H. Grant, a natur-
alist of considerable experience, sent out from home

to replace the late Mr. Stalker, who lost his life at

Wakatimi early in the expedition.
In this enforced state of inactivity the natives who
were willing to work and all who could be persuaded
to lend a hand, were set to clear the forest round the
camp and on the east bank of the river. This work
had been started with the threefold object of rendering
the camp more healthy, employing the time of the
unoccupied coolies, and with the hope that a view
might eventually be obtained of the snows. This
latter object, from a survey point of view, was most
226
 A SUCCESSFUL CLEARING
important, as from no other point, except at themouth
of theMimika River, had the mountains been seen.
Without this second view the task of fixing the promi-
nent points and ascertaining their heights was impos-
sible, and no certain knowledge of the obstacles which
lay ahead could be gleaned from the short incursions
which had already been made into the hills. This
clearing when finished was one of the best bits of work
undertaken while we were in the country, and was
carried on with such steady and systematic persever-
ance that at the end not a tree remained to impede the
view of Carstensz, Idenburg, and the whole of the great
peaks of the Nassau Range.
At this work of tree cutting the JNIimika Papuan is

in his element. His one ambition in life seems to be

that of felling trees with a steel axe, and as long as he
can do this he is perfectly happy. To be able to do
it in comfort, close to his home, to chat and smoke

between whiles, and to be paid for it in addition, is real

bliss. And when one comes to look at it in his light,
and to try even the task of splitting fire-wood with a
heavy blunt stone axe, his joy in wielding five pounds
of sharpened steel is not to be wondered at. Fourteen
acres, for such was the extent cleared in five months,
sounds little, but the task was in reality a stupendous
one, as those who have seen dense tropical jungle will
agree, particularly when, as in this case, many of the
treeswere twenty to twenty-five feet in circumference,
and were hard enough to defy our united efforts for
days at a time.
Though they longed to own these axes themselves,
only on two occasions did they attempt to steal them,
and when they borrowed one would ahvays return it.
The first axes giv^en to the men of Parimau were in
227
 SUPPLY AND DEMAND
exchange for canoes, and the addition of these tools to
their limited stock started a very fever of canoe build-
ing. By borrowing others from our camp fresh fuel
was added to their ardour, until canoes became a glut
in the market. AVhen our fleet of boats were sufficient
in number, we naturally enough would buy no more,
but this simple proof of the law of supply and
demand the natives could never fathom. It was the
same in other respects. If a bunch of fish was pur-
chased, strings of men would continue to arrive at
short intervals each wdth other bunches they were
;

astounded when no more were bought, and could never

be made to understand that we had enough for our
present requirements. Once any fish were refused they
decided that no more were needed for weeks to come,
and not a fish would be seen, although asked for almost
daily. So it was when a turtle was bought for the
reptile collection, turtles poured in. The same with
stone clubs, sago, &c. but the only thing we would
;

never have refused were bananas, and of these there

were seldom sufficient. The coolies, sick to death of
their eternal rice and half- decomposed salt fish, were
ready to give every stitch of clothing for the fruit,
regardless of the after consequences of having nothing
to wear or to sleep upon.
Ascarcity of clothing to the coolies would have
been rather an advantage than otherwise, had it not
rendered them more vulnerable to the attacks of insects,
and particularly those of the malarial mosquito. When
camping for the night on a new patch of ground, unless
the jungle in the immediate vicinity is cleared of low
scrub, the assaults of the clouds of mosquitoes are irre-
sistible, putting sleep out of the question and laying
up a stock of sickness for the days to come. The
228
 MOSQUITOES AND LEECHES
slightest clearing affords some alleviation from the
attacks, and if the forest is levelled for from fifty to a
hundred yards round the habitations, the obnoxious
pest is entirely eradicated. Opinions differ as to how
far mosquitoes will travel from the spot of their birth
some say fifty, others two hundred yards, but my idea is
that in the district in which we were working the limit
is about a hundred. I have heard it remarked that
one can always distinguish an anopheles mosquito (the
malarial species) from its innocuous brother by the
upright position it assumes, as though it were standing
on its head such a fact may be of scientific interest,
;

but as the insect is never seen until the bite has been
felt and the harm done, such a discovery is not of
much practical value. Contrary to popular belief,
they apparently enjoy tobacco fumes and the smoke
;

of fires, unless so dense as to choke a human being,

only serves to warn off the most sensitive.
The remaining species, though very annoying, do no
serious harm and are little heeded by the savage, as even
their worst sting will never leave a wound equal to that
of the mildest leech. The bite of a leech affects a native
worse than anyone else, for although his skin is tougher
than that of other men, yet the dirty state of his body
increases the chances of infection from other sources.
In the majority of cases the sores increase until they
become really serious wounds, to check which they take
no precautions, except when we were present, when they
would beg for ointment and a dressing particularly—
—
the dressing from the medicine chest. Even if the
ointment did no good, they reasoned they could still
remove the dressing and use it as a head ornament.
As is the case with most native races, medicine in
any form was much appreciated by imported man and
229
 VALUE OF MEDICINE
Papuan alike. The former thought it his duty, as the
superior creature, to make as much fuss as possible over
taking the drug, but liked to be given it all the same.
The Papuan, on the other hand, seemed to enjoy the
process, and would ask to be doctored whenever oppor-
tunity offered; but he was an unsatisfactory creature
upon whom to confer a benefit and evinced no spark of
gratitude for favours received, as Marshall found on one
occasion in particular. During the month of May he
gave some harmless medicine to a woman who com-
plained of headache. She soon got well and worked on
steadily for another four or five weeks, then sickened
and died. For this the husband considered Marshall
and the medicine to blame, and as soon as the wailing
had ceased came over and told him so, following it up
with bad sulks, probably to see what recompense would
be offered. " 'Tis an ill wind," &c., for to make up
for the loss of his breadwinner the bereaved husband
attached himself to one of the working parties, in order
that, as he told us, he might win an axe with which to
purchase a new helpmate. By the hurried way in which
he departed at the end of his time, I am inclined to
think he had had his eye upon the new girl for some
weeks. Something, however, must have gone wrong
with his scheme, as he was still a bachelor when we
left the country but, as steel axe-heads are scarcer than
;

women, he is probably settled in life by this time.

I have already referred to the high mortality amongst
the Papuans, who have inhabited the land for countless
generations and who have become inured to the rigours
of the climate, but what can be said of ourselves and the
imported soldiers and carriers ? Our casualty list is
indeed an appalling one, despite the untiring efforts of
WoUaston and Marshall, who were ever ready to turn
230
 MORTALITY OF THE EXPEDITION
out at hours of the night to help the sick. Still, bad
all
as it is, it is little worse than that of many another
expedition, and better than some, for instance the
Mamberano party at this time working on the north
coast, of whom it is reported that at one period there
was not a single member, black or white, who could
stand. With us, Europeans, Javanese soldiers and con-
victs, Gurkhas, men of Sumatra, Macassar, Amboina
and Buton, each contributed a share to the high per-
centage of sick and dead.
I have carefully avoided many references to this, the
darkest side of the expedition, and it may be said of
all journeys undertaken in New Guinea, but it is only

right that some idea should be given of the heavy toll

demanded of those who attempt to unravel the secrets
of this island.
To who entered
simplify the statistics, only those
the country during the twelve months have been
first

taken into consideration and, to realise correctly the

;

risk of life, it must be remembered that the men em-

ployed were in the prime of life and An good health
when landed, and in addition that no individual was on
any account engaged for a longer period than eight
months. Of the four hundred men of all races employed
during this period, twelve per cent, died in the country
as a direct result of the climate and the hardships under-
gone. To this list should be added many who left the
country in the relief ships, in a condition which allowed
but the faintest hope of recovery. JNIany of these
invalids were suffering from beri-beri, a disease which
claims a heavy toll from the inhabitants of the East
Indies, but of which we saw no signs amongst the
natives of New Guinea. Eighty-three per cent, of the
total force were invalided from the country, and it may
231
 B£RI-BER1
be sure that no man was sent away unless the case
absolutely demanded such treatment.
Of the four hundred Europeans and natives who
were landed during this year only eleven lasted out till
the end of the expedition, a total period of fifteen
months. Of the survivors four were Europeans, four
were Gurkhas, two were soldiers and one a convict.
Of the different races the British and Gurkhas stood
the climate the best, and the Javanese the worst.
The chief causes of this high mortality and roll of
sickness were malarial fever, beri-beri, dysentery, pneu-
monia and general debility. From beri-beri the Javanese
and men of Sumatra showed the heaviest percentage of
loss, the Butonese hardly being affected. Goodfellow
and Cramer were both attacked before leaving the
country, but soon recovered on reaching healthier
climes.
Beri-beri is commonly
attributed to feeding on in-
ferior rice, but was certainly not proved with us, as
this
the supplies of the Dutch escort were at any rate of
excellent quality, and they suffered even more heavily
than did our own men. Possibly it may be traced to
the removal of the husks from the grains of rice, and
the fine milling which is so popular in the East. As a
preventive some people pin their faith to Ketchang
Idjoe (a small bean grown largely in the Malay Archi-
pelago, and eaten as any other vegetable) but here;

again they must be wrong, as both parties used this

throughout without appreciable result. The Dobo
pearl-fishers are great believers in the efficacy of this
bean, and claim, by its means, to have reduced their
losses to infinitesimal proportions. To my uninitiated
eyes, the disease appeared to pick out those who carried
an undue amount of adipose tissue, at any rate the
232
 MALARIA
germ, for such I seems to find here a more
suppose it is,

congenial home in which to propagate its species.

From malaria, sooner or later, we all suffered, but
had not most of us been provided with mosquito nets
our days of sickness would have increased tenfold.
JNIosquito nets are certainly a great aid to health, but
are only of assistance during the dark hours of the
night, as it is impossible to turn into bed as soon as
dusk falls, the hour when the death-dealing insect sallies
forth to the attack.

233
 CHAPTER XVII
—A cheerless place — Our ill-fated launch — The art of
Illness of Goodfellow
poling —A hearty welcome — Propitiating the river gods — Scarcity of
game —Loss of canoes — A rain-soaked country— Migration— Valuable
detail work — Pygmy villages — The expedition split up — Lost coolies

GOODFELLOW, who had been camping on the

Wataikwa, to which place he had gone in the
hope of recouping his strength, returned to Parimau on
3rd September, so run down that it was imperative for
him to leave the country at the earliest possible moment.
He had experienced repeated attacks of fever since the
end of July, each bout leaving him weaker than before,
and to this was now added symptoms of beri-beri. In
such a country as New Guinea, when once malaria has
obtained a thorough hold on the system, the only chance
of a cure lies in leaving the country for a prolonged
period of time. A
relief ship was shortly expected,
and in this it was settled he should sail for Europe.
Far better would it have been if he had given in three
months previously, but, as is so often the case, he
hoped and believed that each attack would be the last.
It was evident, however, that his constitution was too
undermined to withstand further attack, and, greatly
against his wish, he accepted the verdict of the medical
officers, and decided to abandon all idea of remaining
longer in the country. There is no doubt that had he
stayed he would have paid the penalty with his life.
Before, however, cutting himself entirely adrift from
the expedition, he agreed to procure fresh coolies from
234
 A CHEERLESS PLACE
Macassar, and, as soon as these had been despatched, to
sail direct for England.
A week later 1 received a low-spirited message to the
effect that no ship had called, so, postponing an expedi-
tion up the Tuaba, I left at once for VVakatimi. During
the week that I stayed at the base camp there were still
no signs of the eagerly-expected vessel, and the spirits
of the invalid coolies, buoyed up by the hopes of early
departure, fell to the lowest state of despondency.

think at that time that ^^''akatimi was the most

I
cheerless place I have ever struck. No one moved
faster than at a crawl, many used crutches, while others
had to be assisted about the camp ; so in a wild desire
to escape the scene I went to the coast, in the hope
that I might find a way to the river Wania or obtain a
view of the mountains from a spit of sand at the mouth
of the Mimika, a never-failing tonic, if it was only to
verify the fact that the mountains had not moved since
last looked at. This journey was carried out by canoe,
and it may be wondered why the motor boat, obtained
with so much trouble from Dobo, was not still in use.
The reason is easy to tell. She was under water.
No expedition can go just as the promoters desire,
but it was really extraordinary how the five or six
attempts to reach the Wania, a large river lying about
twenty miles to the east, failed from one cause and
another. Even when suitable transport was available,
something always happened to prevent an entrance into
the mouth of that river, until we began to think the
place bewitched. To superstitious people the following
short account of our run of ill-luck may be interesting.
JNIr. CD.
Mackellar, one of the keenest and most
generous supporters of exploration in all parts of the
world, had presented me on leaving London with a
235
 OUR ILL-FATED LAUNCH
lucky horse-shoe, tied with white heather. This, as
soon as we landed at Wakatimi, had been nailed, points
uppermost, to a solitary tree in the middle of the camp.
Fortune having set in dead against us, the horse-shoe
was blamed, and after four months' trial turned
round to see if that would improve matters. Thus it
remained till August, and as affairs showed no signs of
mending, it was solemnly removed and cast into the
depths of the river, where at least, so we thought, its
wicked influence could no longer be felt. But its deeds
were only transferred from the land to the water, as on
the following week the motor-boat, on whose help so
much depended, was wrecked. Thus can this country
turn good wishes to no account.
The Amboina boy in charge of the boat had, against
strict orders, after the third trip, made an attempt to
return from No. 5 camp to Wakatimi on a high flood
and in a pitch black night. The result was what might
have been expected. In the darkness a clearer portion
of the forest was mistaken for a bend of the river, and
the boat driven at full speed into a mass of piled-up
tree trunks. With constant bailing she was floated to
Wakatimi, there to sink and remain under water for
a month, the flood not falling sufficiently to enable her
to be beached. The Europeans were away at the time,
and the boy cleared off by the next ship, saying that
the engine had broken down and that the boat was use-
less. With the some Dutch pioneers who
assistance of
arrived in October at the base camp, she was docked
and patched up as well as possible, retarred, and her
bottom covered with pieces of kerosene tins, but in
spite of this she continued to leak so badly that to
make her serviceable a man had to be kept permanently
on duty bailing her out.
236
 THE ART OF POLING
As
the motor boat was out of order and nothing was
doing on the coast, I took tlie first available oppor-
tunity of returning to Parimau. The journey proved
as hateful as ever, every foot of the way having to be
poled, but as this is a more rapid mode of progress than
paddling, the journey took only five days instead of the
usual We had by this time mastered the art of
six.

poling, though the narrow sloping bows afforded any-

thing but a secure foothold. If our punting friends on
the Thames would narrow their platforms down to nine
inches they would understand that frequent duckings
were included in the day's work still, in this the
;

wettest of all countries, one soaking more or less

matters little. Of the Europeans, Marshall was the
most skilled in this particular form of sport, his fine phy-
sique and weight giving him a decided advantage over
the lighter members. For some reason I was always
finding the stickiest piece of mud with my pole, which
meant that as the pole could not be abandoned, and as
it refused to come to me, I had to follow it in.

How thankful we were when the- snug huts of

Parimau hove in sight, and to see our comrades and
their miscellaneous collection ofmen waiting at the
landing-stage to give us a welcome. The greatest joy
in going away is said to lie in the return, and of all the
camps, Parimau was the most popular. Even the
natives received one with open arms, and the grins of
satisfaction were sufficient to show that, however
shallow their welcome was in reality, they were always
pleased to see fresh arrivals from below. We had
worked and lived amongst them for the best part of
a year, doctored them and sympathised with their
troubles, until at length we had actually come to like
them, or, at any rate, many of the best of them.
287
 A PROPITIOUS MOMENT
Except in trivial matters we had no quarrel of any
sort they now understood us, and we them, and
;

though I dare say both sides had faults, we found it

very easy to put up with one another. From the com-
mercial standpoint the expedition was valuable to
them, and in the absence of imported labour they were
simply priceless to us.
We arrived at a propitious moment, as the I bo
people had come over for one of the periodical dances
and hunting expeditions. The chances of success
looked remote, as rain again threatened to disarrange
their plans and wasli them out of their homes. Deter-
mined that this should not happen if it could by
any means be prevented, an interesting ceremony was
performed, with the intention, so far as we could make
out, of propitiating or frightening the river gods into
a more kindly mood. A
crowd of men collected and
marched to the river bank, where the leader, armed
with a long hard-wood pole, stepped forth and flogged
the waters, each blow being received with a chorus of
" boos," which in the Mimika language means " flood "
or "water." This proceeding having been satisfac-
torily completed, a hole was scooped out of the soil in
front of each hut and a cocoa-nut full of water poured
in, each emptying being followed by more " boos," after

which the holes were fllled in, and the men dispersed
to their homes. Curiously enough the water rose to
the line of these holes and no farther, but that such is
not always the case is shown by the way the more
practical women continued to bale out the canoes in
readiness for another night afloat.
The sing-song came off successfully, and was suc-
ceeded on the following day by the hunt, but though
three villages were taking part in the business, not an
238
 SCARCITY OF GAME
animal was and the people were proportionately
killed,
crestfallen and sulky. There is little doubt that the
continual firing of guns by the collectors had driven
much of the game away, with the result that the
natives suffered. To make amends for this, so far as we
were able,no body of a bird or beast killed by us was
ever thrown away and with the exception of pigeons
;

all eventually found its way into the village cooking-

pots. Carrion crows, hawks, and other birds were

alike eagerly accepted by the ever hungry natives they ;

were at once plucked, placed on the hot embers of the

fire, and the bones picked clean in a very few minutes.

Where a Papuan is, nothing is wasted. He will eat

anything and in any condition (except bad rice, of which
we had plenty, and this he cannot stomach), fresh or
decomposed, clean or dirty, from a pig to a grub, and
all forms of life that come between, including such

creatures as iguanas, lizards, snakes, rats, or anything

else that breathes.
We had been exactly ten months in the country,
and although it was generally believed that the dry
season was at hand, the rainfall showed little diminution,
a particularly heavy flood visiting Parimau on 12th
October, and for the fourth time sweeping the native
village completely out of existence. Onour side of the
river the waters rose to the level of the floors of the
huts, doing great damage to the banks, carrying away
eight of our flotilla of eleven canoes, and smashing them
to pieces on the rocks below. AVith them went the land-
ing stages, for nothing can resist the great tree-trunks
whey they come whirling down on a flood. The
wretched natives spent a miserable night afloat, squat-
ting in their canoes midst depressed relations and
dripping household goods. The gurgling suck of the
239
 A RAIN SOAKED COUNTRY
waters, the cries of the natives, and the fall of great
trees, both in the river and in the jungle, produced
a pandemonium not readily forgotten.
On the subsiding of the waters the natives were
compelled to re erect their huts on the only ground
available, the original site of the village being now much
diminished in size. The large space of open ground
which had met our eyes on our first arrival at Parimau
had now practically vanished, worn away by the per-
sistent attacks of the river, and it was our presence only
and the prospects of trade that prevented the natives
from migrating to other regions.
AV^ith perpetual floods sweeping over the country
and destroying the villages it is hard to see how the
natives can ever be raised in the social scale by the con-
struction of homes of a more permanent nature. Huts
erected in the forks of the larger trees, a style of archi-
tecture patronised in other districts of New Guinea, here
finds no favour, though itappears to be the only solution
of the difficulty. The forest land being nothing more or
less than a malarial bog, man is restricted to the narrow
strip of ground bordering the rivers, where, at any rate,
the sun at times can reach the soil and bring warmth to
the half-drowned savage. To these discomforts must
be added the scarcity of food, both game and vegetable,
usually represented by flabby fish and sago, and it must
be owned that life is but a dull routine to the man and
hard labour for the woman.
Scarcely had the people recovered from the effects
of the last flood when still another threatened to de-
stroy their new works, though stopping short at actual
damage. It was, however, the last straw. The entire
population, sick of being drowned out of their homes,
decided then and there to move to other parts, and
240
 VALUABLE DETAIL WORK
packing their canoes with every portable article, sailed
down the stream and were no more seen. Unfortunately
the best men, those who were always ready to carry,
went with them, a few loafers alone remaining, either
compelled to stay because the canoes were insufficient
in number to carry them all at once, or because their
cupidity was awakened by the sight of a box of fine
carving knives which we had held over as a special
inducement to work when other trade goods were at a
discount.
No coolies being available, Marshall and I with ten
natives, on 17th October, started off in an attempt to
penetrate into the mountains to the north of the 'J'uaba
River. It may be remarked by my readers that these
side excursions helped in no whit towards a systematic
and distant entry into the high mountains, and that they
were but a waste of time. In a sense this is true, for
we knew before this date that the final line of advance
would have to be directly to the east. It is also true,
however, that no prolonged journey was possible without
transport, and the only feasible thing to be done, there-
fore, was to prepare the preliminary stages, explore the
country on either hand, incidentally adding much valu-
able detail work to the map, search for easier roads, and
to take care not to draw upon any stores already landed
at the most advanced depot. Each tour in itself was
of little value, but each added something of either geo-
graphical or zoological interest, and therefore was worth
undertaking. Handicapped as we were, it was the best
and only possible means of helping on the work of the
expedition.
On this particular jouniey it was hoped that a fine
view of the precipitous face of the main range would
be obtained, and that incidentally we might come across
241 Q
 PYGMY VILLAGES
another village of pygmies, many of whom were re-
ported to be living in the foothills. As usual all went
well until the mountains were reached, when the dilatory
tactics of the natives recommenced. The rain fell in
torrents, quickly flooding the river and forcing us out of
the bed into the jungle. A wet and uncomfortable night
was spent, but a fine morning put some life into the
carriers and encouraged them to advance afresh. Pro-
gress was slow, as the kukries of the Gurkhas had to be
used to open up every yard of the road. At night we
halted well in the mountains, finding for once a clear
spot to camp upon, a sandy spit formed at a bend of
the river.
During the daj^ a grand view had been obtained of
the great precipice, rising l)lack and threatening a short
twelve to fourteen miles away. But how hopeless
seemed the prospect of reaching the foot, for wild and
rugged knife-edged ridges intervened, some covered
with dense forest, others too steep for even the scrub
bush to obtain a foothold, A flat refusal from the

natives to proceed any farther up the main river, com-

pelled us to fall in with their suggestion that we should
visit a pygniy village on Tapiro Mountain, and another
twelve hours were spent struggling over the rocks of
a stream of crystal water, at the end of which time
the Papuans placidly informed us that there were no
pygmies anywhere near, but that they sometimes visited
the stream on the look-out for fish, as if that was the
same thing and all we wanted to know. As we dis-
covered long afterwards, in this move they had deliber-
ately deceived us, for a pygmy village did exist within
one march of the night's camp, but in exactly the oppo-
site direction to that in which they had brought us.
This they would not expose, either from fear of the
242
 THE EXPEDITION SPLIT UP
wrath of the pygmies, or because they wished to keep
our trade goods to themselves, and thus enchance the
value of their own possessions.
An advance up the Tuaba River, unaccompanied
by the natives, led to no better result, and as no track
of any description could be traced, it appears likely that
the main valley is uninhabited. These colonies of hill-
men are scattered and few in number, and do not
extend beyond Wataikwa Mountain to the east. How
far to the west they go is uncertain, but by the forma-
tion of the mountains and the more gentle slopes to be
encountered in that direction, it is quite possible that
they may be found as far as the valley dividing the
Nassau from the Charles Louis range. In fact, what
appeared to be cultivation was seen by the glasses lying
high up the mountain side at a distance of fifteen to
eighteen miles to the west, but in a position quite
impossible to locate unless assisted by the inhabitants
themselves.
At time the expedition was split up into small
this
parties,each member doing as much as possible of his
own particular kind of work. Shortridge was collecting
on the Wataikwa, Grant on the Kapare, but all were
waiting anxiously for the batch of coolies which Good-
fellow had promised to enlist. Our carriers had steadily
dwindled in numbers till now but twelve remained, and
these were fully employed in keeping Shortridge's and
Grant's parties supplied with the necessaries of life. The
abominable climate and the continual work had played
havoc with the men. Backwards and forwards they
plodded along the same monotonous track, now no
longer a path but a bog of slime covering a network of
roots and tangled creepers ; bad enough for the indi-
genous inhabitants, but killing work for imported labour.
24,3
 *>

LOST COOLIES
The self-same day that JNIarshall and
I set out for

the Tuaba, Cramer started on a journey of his own,

being anxious to solve the question as to what con-
neetion there was, if any, between the Tuaba and
Wataikwa Taking twenty soldiers and convicts
rivers.
and ten days' supplies, he was ferried by the I bo people
down the Kamura to its junction with the Wataikwa,
tlien up that river, passing the mouth of the Iwaka
on the way, until the swift current compelled him to
abandon his canoes and take to the banks. Continuing
for tlu-ee days further, the Wataikwa camp was reached
and the return journey made along the usual route.
The trip had proved highly successful, as the courses of
the rivers liad been traced, and the \\^ataikwa found
navigable for a launch for many miles. Broad and
stony beaches lay on either hand, and the forest was
considerably less dense than that bordering on the
Mimika.
Short and comparatively comfortable as the trip had
been, his men on their return showed evident signs of
breaking down, three dying within the next few days.
Three others w^ere lost the day before reaching camp,
for though every endeavour was made to keep the line
together, such was the denseness of the undergrowth that
on stepping aside to avoid a particularly bad spot, they
had failed to regain the trail. Two w^ere found the
following day by search parties, but of the other, a con-
vict, nothing could be discovered. On the third day
hope of ever seeing the man was abandoned, when,
to the astonishment of all in camp, he appeared out of
the undergrowth opposite, walked slowly to the river
edge, and collapsed. Sixty hours without food and
shelter, the nights spent in the pouring rain, and, worst
of all, the horrible knowledge of being lost in a trackless
244
 LOST COOLIES
jungle, and that death must come in a very short time,
is enough to break the stoutest heart. Fortunately he
was one of the strongest men, and with a plentiful
supply of food and rest soon recovered. No European
could have stood the strain and lived it requires a
;

sluggish brain and a phlegmatic temperament, charac-

teristics of the native of the East.
The collapse in our own coolies continued, and as
it was found impracticable to keep the two outlying
camps longer supplied with food, Shortridge was in
November withdrawn from the Wataikwa, and the
place left under the charge of a Gurkha and a Javanese
soldier.

245
 CHAPTER XV'III

—
Tapiro Mountain —
The home of the pygmies Effects of the floods —
silent — — —
march Nervous carriers Excited pygmies A poor joke
—
Churlish hosts— Physical chai-acteristics Dress^Personal treasures
— — —
Head-dresses Plainsman and pygmy A struggle for existence
— — —
Clearings Elusive women The incomprehensible white man
—
Superior plainsmen — My suspicious guide A hostile headsman
— —
Timid womenfolk Our departure Measurements of pygmies

TTP lying
to this time only such birds as live in the low-
plains had been secured for the collection,
J
and the large majority were already well known to
science. It was from the hills that the rarer and
unknown species might be expected. With this
object in view, Grant crossed over to the Kapare on
3rd November, and on the afternoon of the second
day pitched his camp just within the foothills of
Tapiro Mountain, from whence he and his men could
collect to a height of 2000 feet or more, and return
on the same day. Their position was one to be
envied, comfortably settled as they were amidst the
most exquisite scenery, with the main river in front
roaring through a canon of cliffs, a stream of crystal
clearness running in just to the north, and with
the precipitous crags and spurs of Tapiro Mountain
directly behind. During their stay here several new
species of birds were secured, and a few rats and such
small fry added to the mammal collection.
It was while thus employed that a regular and
well-defined trail was discovered on the crest of the
main spur which, when followed up, was found to
246
 THE HOME OF THE PYGMIES
lead to Wambirimi, the village we had so long been
desirous of entering, and the principal home of the
pygmies discovered many months before. Grant's entry
into the square, formed by the first group of huts, was
not opposed, but he was clearly led to understand by the
men there found that no welcome would be accorded if
he attempted to establish himself in their midst. He
saw no women or children, and after taking a photo-
graph of one of the huts was escorted back to his camp,
where a small amount of trading was done.
On receipt of this news and hearing that the road
was immeasurably superior to the one we had dis-
covered during the previous JMarch, INlarshall and
I determined to sleep in the midst of the pygmies,
examine them in their homes, and if possible take
measurements and photographs. By spending a
couple of nights in the village itself we fondly hoped
that their womenfolk would be compelled to show
themselves, and that, when they had once lost their
shyness, they would move about amongst us as freely
as the women in the plains were accustomed to do.
Our baggage was soon packed and to our great sur-
;

prise,knowing how strongly they objected to enter

the mountains, the Parimau men at once volunteered
to carry the loads to the village. This pleased us
immensely, as we reasoned that the arrival of the
plainsmen would be likely to cause much less fear
amongst the hillmen than if a troop of brightly-clothed
strangers were suddenly to appear in their midst.
The next morning we set forth. Eight months
had elapsed since I had last seen the Kapare River,
and since then the wet season had sent its floods
swirling down the valley. The old familiar land-
marks had vanished or were so altered as to be almost
247
 EFFECTS OF THE FLOODS
unrecognisable. Hundred of acres of ancient forest
land, bearing trees of great age, had entirely dis-
appeared, giving place to stony stretches of river bed,
through which meandered rivulets, or where lay pools
of muddy water. The old three-acre camping ground,
together with the log-hut, built with so much toil,

and the two miles of the road, had completely

first

vanished, and only the cut stumps of the overgrown

trail beyond showed where so many days of labour
had been expended. On the second day we reached
Grant's camp, and on the third set forth on the final
climb to the village of Wambirimi, or, as some of the
men called it, AVambirimerbiri.
The general direction of the new advance was not
across the crystal stream as we had imagined, but directly
up the narrow ravine out of which it flowed. The
ascentcommenced at once along a faintly-marked track.
At times it wound along razor-backed ridges, at others
dropped into dark and gloomy ravines, but was always
compressed into the smallest dimensions by the all-
enveloping jungle.
Not a sound broke the silence of the forest as the
long thin line of carriers gradually crept upwards.
Animal life we had certainly expected to find, but
except for the call of a solitary bird of paradise, and
the sight of a large snake of exquisite emerald hue
which passed quietly through the line of men and into
the undergrowth beyond, not a sound broke the oppres-
sing stillness, nor was there a movement to show tliat
man or beast inhabited the land. But that life did
exist in both these forms was proved by the numerous
small noose traps set at intervals along either side of
the path, but of such small size as to be incapable of
holding anything more formidable than a rat.
248
 NERVOUS CARRIERS
The always depressed when far from home,
carriers,
became more and more affected as the minutes passed,
until complete silence reigned throughout the party.
A steady climb of three hours brought us to a wooded
knoll, through the trees of which a glimpse of the
cleared and cultivated area was obtained, showing how
close we were to our goal. Still not a sound. The
signs of nervousness amongst the carriers increased,
for by now they realised that they had broken the
tribal rule and had crossed into forbidden ground, and
to make matters worse were unarmed, since by our
orders their spears, bows, and arrows had been left at
the foot of the hill. Had we not been with them it
is certain that they never would have ventured into

the district, armed or unarmed. To judge by their

stealthy movements I verily believe they thought
we were about to raid the small men, but what they
thought we wanted to steal from the pygmies, unless
it was their women, I cannot imagine. However,
to show them that our intentions were friendly, and
that no surprise attack was to be undertaken, Marshall
gave a hail with all the strength of his lungs, a pro-
ceeding which acted as a galvanic shock to the carriers
and brought a babel of cries from the cultivated ground
opposite.
Instead of pushing on at once, we halted for a
few minutes to show the pygmies that our intentions
were peaceful, and to give them time to collect their
scattered wits. The moments passed rapidly while
listening to the pandemonium which had broken loose
on the hillside, and watching the little men appear
amongst their crops and come bounding down the hill-
side towards the threatened flank. To the excited
cries of the Wambirimi men were added the shrill
249
 EXCITED PYGMIES
shrieks of the women asthey hurried from their fields
into the hidden recesses of the forest. Feehng that
the necessities of etiquette had been fulfilled, we pressed
forward rapidly and entered upon the col which links
the plantation to the village.
Down the mountain sides the hillmen converged
from all directions, racing along the felled trees and
across the tangled growth, shouting at the tops of their
voices, and fitting arrows to their bows as they ran.
Our own men, although unarmed, split into three parties,
for what purpose I am not sure, but which gave to the
force the appearance of advanced and flank guards.
Any forcible opposition which may have been intended
by the hillmen was nullified by Peau^ and his comrades
pressing so rapidly and determinedly forward, as to
actually surround the pygmies before they could make
up their minds to commence hostilities, and to close
upon them in such a way as to prevent the effectual
use of their weapons should they suddenly decide to
resist the invader. It was a pretty manoeuvre.
An excited confab followed, Peau doing his best
to impress upon the pgymies that we were not a
raiding party, and that our only desire was to stay the
night upon the mountain-side, somewhere about the
spot where we then were. The terrified little men did
not like it at all, but could see no way out of the
trouble. We were evidently not afraid of them, and
as, after much fitting of the arrows into the bows and

several threats to shoot, we still remained where we

were, they were compelled to make the best of a bad
job and let us stay. To excite their avarice, we made the
most of the fact that in the boxes were concealed beads,
knives, and cloth, and such goods as we knew they
^ The regular go-between.
250
 TaI'IKO I'VG.MIES
A group of Tapiro pygmies standing in front of the smallest of their houses. They are never to
be seen without their bows and arrows, which are of remarkable length.
 A POOR JOKE
longed to possess, until at length they began to think
that our coming might considerably enrich the village.
To our surprise, instead of leaving us to our own
resources and allowing the camp to be pitched there
and then, they led the way to the village first seen by
Grant, telling the big Papuans to follow on with the
loads. This showed certain friendly feelings towards
us, but from my point of view was marred by a dis-
agreeable way the guide had, every few yards, of
fitting an arrow into the bow, drawing it to its full
extent and pointing it straight at the middle of my
body. The action was accompanied by a broad grin,
so there was nothing to do but grin in return, although
I well remember thinking at the time that it was one
of the poorest kind of jokes I had ever seen.
Within a few minutes we w^ere in a small square
surrounded by five huts, but were hurried tlu'ough this
up the slope of the hill to a second collection of nine
huts which had been erected in the clearing of the
forest and well out of sight of the first habitations.
Two artificially constructed platforms of clay and mud,
each about the size of a tennis court, were pointed out
as the places upon which the tents could be pitched, the
upper one of which we chose, to the accompaniment of
loud protests from the owaiers of the neighbouring huts.
Their objections were overruled, and as they had no
intention of living in such close proximity to strangers,
they had to clear out and take up a temporary abode
elsewhere.
Neither women nor children were to be seen, and
although the hillmen had brought us to this place of
their own accord, they showed evident misgivings as to
our intentions, and never for a moment let go their
bows and arrows, or lent a hand to move a load. They
251
 CHURLISH HOSTS
showed a churlish and even
spirit in all their actions,
refused to point out where water was to be found — an
unusual request in a country where it is always raining
but the day happened to be fine, the hill steep, and the
river hundreds of feet below. We did the best thing
possible, took not the slightest notice of them, quietly
pitched the tents, lit the fires, and settled ourselves
down as if the place belonged to us. Seeing that their
presence was disregarded, they gradually came to look
upon us with more favourable eyes, and at length began
talking and prying into our goods. A few beads judi-
ciously expended worked wonders and awakened the
desire for trade.
During these preliminary manoeuvres groups of
excitedmen were arriving from the more distant parts,
panting from their exertions, and eager to hear what
had happened. Many had not been seen before, and
in these fearand curiosity fought for the premier place,
their avaricious little eyes simply starting from their
heads at the sight of beads and knives openly displayed
so as to excite their cupidity.
In age they ranged between eighteen and forty, and
differed as much in appearance as in manners. The
majority were well-developed and nourished, their thigh
muscles being especially marked, the result of con-
tinuous climbing in the mountains. In colour they
were several shades fairer than the plainsmen, although
in no instance did they show anything lighter than milk
chocolate ; but as they were horribly dirty, soot and
dirt begrimed in the sheltered curves and hollows of
their bodies, clean only over those more prominent
parts which brushed against the wet foliage of the
forest, the exact shade was hard to determine. In the
majority of cases the hair was coal black, but there were
252
 PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
now and again instances of very dark brown or even
reddish brown. It was worn short, and took the form
of frizzy curls, not pepper-corn. Many of the older
men had long, thick black beards those of a grey hue
;

were scarce and apparently not approved of, as in three

instances at least they had been dyed a bright yellow.
The nose was straight and broad, the eyes black, the
jaw marked but not prognathous, the lips thick, and
the general contour of the face oval.
Both in dress and decoration they varied but little
from those members of the tribe captured by us in the
previous February. In front, supported by a string
round the waist, stood out at a sharp angle from the
body a straight or curved penis case, 8 to 17 inches in
length, formed from some unknown gourd of a bright
yellow colour, and occasionally decorated with a tuft of
brown or white cuscus fur.
Large and strong net bags of coarse string, inter-
woven with a pattern of yellow fibre, are worn slung
over one shoulder, and from the corner of which hang
from one to as many as twenty boars'- tusks, trophies
of the chase, and highly prized by the owner. These
tusks denote the prowess of the individual, very much
in the same way as human scalps did in the old days of
the North American Indians. The bags contain the
entire sum of their portable possessions, a roll or two
of string for fishing purposes, a fire-stick, and a length
of split rattan. Birds of Paradise plumes, and other
odds and ends, all jealously guarded and never allowed
out of the owner's possession. They paid JNlarshall and
me the compliment of letting us look inside and handle
the goods, but if anyone else tried to do the same, the
bags were clasped to their sides in a vice-like grip and
a string of guttural sounds poured from their lips.

253
 HEAD-DRESSES
Another bag of smaller size is suspended round the
neck close up to the chin, where it is protected from
the rain, and in this is kept tobacco, tinder, and dried
leaves for use as cigarette papers. They are great
smokers, and never seem quite at ease unless they are
puffing their not ill-flavoured tobacco.
Many wear earrings, generally composed of at least
one string of the small black seeds of the wild banana,
to which may be added a red seed or two, a wisp of
cuscus fur, or any object particularly fancied, the whole
collection being attached to a hole in the lobe of
the ear. Now and again this fanciful ornament would
be abandoned in favour of a plain, small and highly-
polished gourd.
Necklaces are fairly common and of great variety,
but all most quaint. Some are formed of dozens of
teeth or shoulder-blades of the wallaby, strung in rows ;

others of the back teeth of the cuscus, or of white and

red seeds, no particular pattern being ultra-fashionable.
Head-dresses are not much favoured, and usually
consist of a plain band of woven Some, how-
grass.
ever, are of decidedly striking design. One man, for
instance, sported a circlet of over a hundred wallaby
shoulder-blades, each with a small hole bored neatly
through the centre whilst another, of wild aspect,
;

wore a cap of cassowary skin decorated with a crown

of black feathers. Perhaps the quaintest of all was a
cap of hundreds of pieces of black string (black from
age and grease and not because of any particular fibre),
tied together in a knot and hanging as a fringe over
the face. The owner was decidedly bald, so that it
might have been adopted as a wig.
On the body itself there was very little, except in
two instances when rattan was twisted round and round
254>
 PLAINSMAN AND PYGMY
the stomach, possibly to act as a cuirass, a custom
prevalent in other parts of the world.
With their ever- ready bows and arrows, and
absorbed in what was going on around them, they
formed groups easy to study and photograph. From
a cursory glance they gave one the impression of being
on a lower scale to that of the plainsmen, yet in two
instances at least they surpass them in intelligence and
constructive power. The plainsmen from the foothills
to the sea have words to denote the first and second
numerals only, any addition to that number being
shown by the fingers of the hand, and if these are in-
sufficient, by including the toes. According to Grant,
who questioned some of the men who visited his camp
on the Kapare, the pygmies can count up to ten, a
considerable advance in intelligence.
The second marked difference is in the architecture
of the houses. In the plains, the one and only kind of
shelter —excluding dancing halls —
is the primitive and

temporary leaf hut, pitched on the ground. Amongst

the Tapiro this gives place to a substantial wood build-
ing erected on piles, the floor being some 10 feet
above the ground. The house consists of one room
12 to 15 feet square with a verandah in front 3 to
5 feet broad, and sheltered from the rain by a far-
projecting eve. The roof is formed of superimposed
layers of fan-palm leaves, resting on rafters inclined
at an acute angle. Entrance is effected, first to the
verandah by a ladder of the crudest construction, and
thence into the interior of the hut by a window, the
sill of which is 2 to 3 feet above the level of the
floor. The floor itself is made of split timber, laid as
closely as possible, and upon this again are placed
strips of flattened bark. Along the walls more bark
255
 A STRUGGLE FOR EXISTENCE
is fixed, thus excluding both wind and rain. To heat
the interior fires are lit in a box of sand, let into a
hole in the centre of the floor. No other furniture or
decoration exists in any form, though it is possible
that some small and precious articles may have been
remo\ ed to the forest before we gained an entrance.
In the village itself a few yellow pie dogs are to be
seen, of the type common throughout New Guinea but
possessing rather longer coats, due in all probability to
the higher altitude at which they live.
JNIuch of the ground occupied by Wambirimi village
has been artificially levelled, a kind of work that would
never occur to the mind of the plainsman, or if it did
would not be put into execution.
The more one sees of these people, the more one
realises that their lives are one long struggle for exist-
ence. Precipitous mountains with deep and gloomy
gorges surround them on either hand, every foot of
ground clothed with the densest forest, with perpetual
rain, with no wild fruit or edible roots, and flesh in any
form scarce and hard to procure. Existence would be
impossible were it not for the fact that a certain amount
of the less precipitous land has been taken under culti-
vation. For this purpose two clearings have been made,
the larger of about a hundred and twenty acres, situated
on the main hill four hundred or five hundred yards
from the village, the other only in its earliest stages of
development. One must see the ground to appreciate
the amount of labour that has been expended in clear-
ing away the great trees and vegetation with which it
was at one time encumbered. When it is realised also
that this has been accomplished solely with the aid of
fire (a difficult operation in this wet climate), stone axes,
and two implements fashioned out of a couple of small
2ot>
 ELUSIVE WOMEN
pieces of hoop-iron fastened to bamboo handles, the
magnitude of the task will be understood. Covering
the clearing are sweet potatoes and taro, with here and
there an isolated banana tree and on this poor fare,
;

supplemented by an occasional taste of pig, wallaby and

cuscus, these people subsist.
To all outward appearances their fears as to our
intentions were soon allayed, but this could only have
been of a partial character, for, in spite of the fact that
the heaviest bribes were offered, never once did we get
a sight of a woman. Large butcher's knives were dis-
played, eliciting gasps of admiration and longing, it
being explained that these were expressly for those
men who would induce a woman to show herself; and
to our persuasions were added those of the plainsmen,
yet all to no purpose. They were told distinctly that
we only wanted just to look at their women -folk, and
that they could go away immediately after they had
shown themselves but they evidently did not believe
;

us, or possibly feared that the plainsmen would seize and

carry the women away, as it must be remembered that
although women in the plains are so badly treated, yet
they are scarce and much sought after, and a pygmy
woman would probably be extremely popular. The old
men formed the obstructionist party the young ones
;

by themselves might have yielded to our temptations.

In fact they actually said that several of the women had
approached and from the screen of the jungle had
taken a surreptitious look at us, but that the sight of
our clothing had been too much for their feelings, and
that they had beaten a precipitate flight. "If we would
only remove our clothes and appear naked like them,"
they explained, " there would be little doubt that the
women could be persuaded to return." The conditions
257 R
 1
THE PYGMIES MEASURED
imposed were too stringent, and besides, we were not at
all sure that they would fulfil their part of the bargain.

The men showed no fear of the camera and the cine-

matograph, but then they had not the remotest idea of
what was happening. What could these little savages
have thought of our goings on ? Picture the scene.
Two weird creatures in the form of man, but as different
as light from darkness from anything they had ever
dreamt of, enter their midst, pitch their peculiar form
of house just where it suits them, and without delay
proceed to place their hosts in groups, all the time
gazing stolidly at a black box then make them shoot
;

arrows, run up and down hill, carry on other silly and

aimless pranks, and after each performance freely dis-
tribute priceless beads. We would have given much
that night to have been able to listen to and understand
their conjectures and reasonings.
Our next proceeding must have been equally sur-
prising and certainly more terrifying, for every man
who could be persuaded to step forth was thoroughly
measured with the standard and with the craniometer,
an operation so appalling that large strips of cloth had
to be offered before they could be tempted to surrender
their bodies into the hands of the Inquisitors. Some of
the older men, indeed, trembled so violently during the
process that they were hardly capable of remaining on
their feet. But as soon as it was realised that this
operation was painless and that no ill effects followed,
they gained courage, and after exchanging a few articles
of dress for beads and finding that they were promptly
paid, they placed themselves unreservedly in our hands,
and at the same time developed an inordinate desire to
dispose of the whole of their worldly goods. A peculiar
thing amongst the latter was a Jew's harp, fashioned
258
 SUPERIOR PLAINSMEN
from a piece of split bamboo and worked by a string,
the notes produced being very similar to those elicited
by the common European kind.
With the exception of boars' tushes and the more
finely carved arrows, the Tapiro men were willing
to exchange their possessions at what seemed to us
ridiculously low rates — a fragment of cloth, a few beads,
&c. The greater difficulty experienced in obtaining
tushes and arrows was apparently due to the fact that
the former were regarded as trophies of the chase, and
difficult to come by, while the better class of arrows
could only have been produced after much labour, as
they were fashioned from the hardest of wood and were
artistically carved. The decoration upon the weapons
often showed great skill and ingenuity, though the tools
used in the work were merely sharpened shells or chips
of ffint. The arrow-heads were of four kinds, each being
of the shape most suitable for bringing down pig, casso-
wary, bird, or fish, and on none were there any traces
of poison.
It was easy to see that not much love was lost be-
tween the hillmen and the plainsmen. The latter, as
members of our train, adopted a very superior attitude,
helping themselves to whatever they fancied and, until
we put a stop to it, pulling down
the walls of the houses
for firewood, cutting off branches of bananas, and in
every way making themselves quite at home and ex-
ceedingly objectionable. Conversation between the two
races was carried on with difficulty, as few of either
party understood in the least the language of the other.
Previous to our arrival in the country, communication
and trading was maintained by one man who travelled
backwards and forwards when tobacco was wanted, dogs
to be bought, or any other exchange to be made.
259
 INTERMARRIAGE
Now and again, I believe, they intermarry, for one
Parimau man certainly carried pygmy blood in his
veins, and was the one and only carrier received with
any show of affection by the hillmen. Similarly, two
of the pygmies appeared more closely related to the
plainsmen than to the people with whom they were
living, noticeably in respect to height, build, and facial
expression. The Parimau women were very fond of
the first pygmy captured in the Kapare River, and gave
him such a good time that he was induced on two or
three occasions to come to Parimau, when they would
kiss and pet him, make him stay with them for the
night, and then rob him in the morning. When he
stormed and raved at the loss of his knife or some other
precious article, they simply laughed in his face, and if
that made him choke with rage they would fondle and
pet him again until peace was restored.
The hillmen selltobacco to the plainsmen, taking
dogs and shells in exchange. During the present visit
home-grown tobacco was scarce, so that a small supply
of the common Java variety, which we had with us,
was doubly welcome. Tobacco is always smoked in the
form of cigarettes, but in a rather novel manner. The
tobacco is rolled up in a dry leaf and, to make the
covering more pliable, is warmed for a few moments
over the fire. One end is lighted, the other closed with
the thumb and finger, and the centre of the cigarette is
placed between the lips, the smoke being drawn from
the middle through the crack formed by the folding
leaf; when partly consumed, the end is placed in the
mouth and finished in the usual way. Only one pipe
did we see. It was made from a single piece of hard
wood, short and stumpy, and the bowl a prolongation
of the stem, so that the smoke passed in a straight line
to the mouth. To our eyesit was crudely fashioned,

260
 MY SUSPICIOUS GUIDE
but with the primitive tools available must have taken
the owner hours, if not days, of patient labour to carve.
Throughout the afternoon of the second day no
natives put in an appearance, and as there was little
doing in camp, Peau and I strolled over to the cultivated
land, on the way passing through the farther collection
of huts. Something must have aroused the suspicions
of my guide, as before he even reached the buildings
he took on the stealthy tread of the hunter, crouching
low and moving with the utmost caution. I just stared
at him in astonishment, as to my eyes there was no-
thing unusual in the country or in the huts. The closer
he approached the more wary he became, until I found
I was copying him, and became for the moment another
savage. Now that I came to glance round with care, I
realised that there was not a man to be seen anywhere,
nor was a sound to be heard. Peau's quick eyes searched
every corner, while in answer to my whispered ques-
tionings his raised finger pointed, first to the overturned
ladder of a hut, and then to a bag of fire-sticks and
—
string lying on the ground in the open sufficient evi-
dence to prove a hurried flight Passing quietly through
!

the village to the cultivation beyond and up the hill-

side he signalled to me to wait, while he crawled along
a tree projecting over the crest, from whence the valley
below could be seen. From my point of vantage, now
that I sat still and listened, the excited chatter of many

men could be heard in the ravine below, but too indis-

tinct for anything to be understood even had I known
the language. This murmur, however, was quite enough
for Peau who, me to follow, hurried back at
signalling
his topmost speed to the tents and amongst his friends,
where in the security of the camp he quickly regained
his wonted calm.
Marshall quite agreed with me that whatever was
261
 A HOSTILE HEADMAN
amiss was not of very serious import. Such proved
to be the case, as within ten minutes the pygmies put
in an appearance, strolhng in by two's and three's, and
proceeded to carry on in the same friendly way as on
the previous day. As to why they had so completely
deserted the village for the time being, and the reason
for their precipitate flight from the farther huts, we
were unable to fathom.
Friendly is perhaps not quite the correct term, as
though half a dozen or so of the keenest traders seemed
highly delighted at the bargains they had made, there
were others who would neither trade nor relinquish
their weapons, and from whom it was impossible to get
a smile or anything more than a look of tolerance. In
one case, indeed, and that a particularly unfortunate one,
for it was the headman of the village of Wambirimi,
there was persistent and hostile obstruction. He was
a particularly objectionable old man, maimed by some
disease and with only one eye, and imbued with a
special dislike for us. Had he kept silence it would
not have mattered, but instead there poured forth an
unceasing flow of remarks, pitched in a high and squeaky
tone, which to us sounded nothing more or less than
pure abuse.
His word carried much weight, and I think that it
was due to his animosity that the women were kept so
well hidden.
Far up the mountain side, thousands of feet above
us, could be seen at dusk the camp fires of the women,
an impregnable spot to which they had fled, and from
which they would again flee were we to attempt a near
approach. It did not require the repeated assertions of
the pygmy men to make us believe that this would
happen, or that it was futile to follow them unless they
were willing to show themselves of their own accord.
262
 At Wamberimi
Pygmies collecting to defend their homes.

TaI'IRO I'VCMIES
The Tapiros, assured of the safety of their homes, take on a more friendly attitude.
 OUR DEPARTURE
It was evident that the women-folk had no intention of
coming into our camp, and that the longer we stayed
where we were the more would their suspicions be
aroused. It could be seen that we had already over-
stayed our welcome, and the deduction was drawn that
it would be wiser to leave the place in peace and give

them time to think over the considerate way in which

they had been treated, so that in case another visit
should be paid later on they might at length fall in
with our wishes.
On the following morning few were present to see
us depart, and these were there only for the purpose
of escorting us off the premises. Their curiosity was
satiated. They had obtained some of our goods and
learnt that we were harmless, and all they now desired
was to see the last of us. On our side we had gained
much. Careful and elaborate measurements of many
men had been made as well as a large number of photo-
graphs taken with the cinematograph and the ordinary
camera, and in addition we had obtained many of their
goods by exchange. As no quarrels or .unpleasantness
had occurred, it was hoped that the impression the visit
had left on their minds was a pleasant one.
So soon as the camp was packed ready for the return
march, the pygmies uncouth behaviour became more
evident, for abandoning all fear, they crowded round,
grasping eagerly at everything offered, pushing and
jostling one another, and even snatching the goods out
of each other's hands. One old man to whom we had
given some tobacco had it taken away from him, bit
by bit, till nought remained. When trading on the
previous day they would have nothing to do with
looking-glasses, refusing to even look them, but now,
when offered as free gifts, they fought amongst them-
selves like a pack of wolves.
263
 MEASUREMENTS OF PYGMIES
We were only escorted as far as the crest of the hill,
and then, left to ourselves, we travelled back to the
Kapare as fast as our carriers could move. Thence
after packing up Grant's camp, the entire party set
out for Parimau, reaching that place two days later
(November 13th), thoroughly satisfied with our trip.
For those of my readers who are interested in anthropology, a
comparative list of the measurements taken during this and other
journeys is attached, from which it will be found that the average

height of the Tapiro pygmies was found to be 4 feet 8f inches, and

that of the ordinary Papuan of the plains 5 feet 6J inches. Thirty
men of each were measured, but I am inclined to think that if the
whole of the Tapiro tribe were to be put under the standard measure
the height would be found to be less by half an inch or more, as
naturally enough only the bolder, and therefore stronger, men would
trust themselves in our hands.
 CHAPTER XIX ^

— —
Dwarfs and giants The Pygmy question Negritos and Negrillos Head- —
— — —
form Origin of Pygmies Various views An open question Pygmy —
— — —
culture Weapons Fire-making The use of stone Arts and crafts —
— —
Decorative art Social and tribal organisation Status Antiquity— —

DWARFS and giants of our own colour are fasci-

nating in a side-show, but embarrassing in private
life. We cannot meet them on an equal footing, and
ifour disapproval of the giant is mingled with respect,
our pity for the dwarf is not free from a suspicion of
contempt. The interest they excite is a tribute to the
abnormal, which attracts by repulsion. black dwarf A
of pygmy breed is, however, not a monstrosity.
Men of science, and the public to a less extent, have
long been interested in the differences in stature that
are to be met with both within and between the
races and peoples of mankind. The interest is partly
scientific, partly it may influence our atti-
human, and
tude towards other nations so much as to receive
popular expression. There is, for example, a tendency
to associate low stature not only with physical defi-
ciency, but with mental inferiority, and to look down
upon those smaller than ourselves. For this reason, in
part at least, the Japanese in their recent rapid advances
have received the applause reserved for unexpected and
surprising merit. They are "clever little fellows."
Our concern in the present chapter is with peoples
whose average stature is much lower than that of the
* This chapter is written by Dr. H. S. Harrison, D.Sc, F.R.A.I,
265
 THE PYGMY QUESTION
Japanese, who are by no means dwarfs. Tribes of very
small men of negroid aspect have long been known to
exist in some tropical regions, and there is convincing
evidence that the ancient Egyptians were familiar with
the African type of these people. In more modern
times our knowledge has been greatly extended, the
discoveries being usually due in the first place to the
zealous curiosity of the traveller and explorer. After
the traveller follows the anthropologist, with more or
less celerity according to the amenities of the environ-
ment, and the newly discovered tribe is studied with an
intensity which fails only to reveal its opinion of the
investigators. Unfortunately for science, if not for them,
the pygmies are shy and retiring people, living mainly
in jungles not easily reached or penetrated, and there
are very many gaps in the knowledge we have of them.
In the case of the Tapiro of New Guinea, discovered
by Captain Rawling and his colleagues, circumstances
prevented anything but a preliminary survey, though
the information gained is sufficient to show that they
fall into line with other pygmies scattered in small

groups over a wide but discontinuous area of the earth's

surface. Whether the line is genealogical or not
gives ground for discussion. It is at any rate worth
while to allow Captain Rawling to pause in his narra-
tive, whilst we consider the bearings of the discov^ery
of pygmies in this new locality. It is not essential
that we should come to any conclusions as to the
origin and significance of pygmy people in general, or
the Tapiro in particular, but we may find sufficient
evidence to convince us that there is an anthropological
" pygmy question," not devoid of importance.
Conspicuous amongst the physical characters of the
Tapiro are the low stature, the woolly hair, the dark
266
^ NEGRITOS AND NEGRILLOS
skin, and the broad head. To
use the language of
science, they are ulotrichous melanic brachycephals of ^

an average height of less than five feet. The same

definition may be apphed to certain pygmy tribes
found in regions not far distant, and also in Central
Africa. The former are usually called Negritos, and
the latter are often spoken of as Negrillos. The
Negrito group has hitherto included only the Aiida-
maiiese of the Andaman Islands, the Semang of parts
of the Malay Peninsula, aud the Aeta of the Philip-
pines. To these must now be added the pygmies of
Dutch New Guinea, for which the only native name
at present known is that of Tapiro. The Negrillos of
Central Africa need not be subdivided for our present
purposes, and the Bushman of South Africa, though
probably allied to the Negrillos, must be left out of
account altogether. The word pygmy will be used
here with sole reference to the Negrillos and Negritos,
the only dwarf peoples with woolly hair.
Before passing on to more general aspects of the
subject, something further must be said of the physical
characters which are common to all our pygmies, and
which have, indeed, led to the provisional association
of the several types in one group. In their general
aspect they have the appearance of negro dwarfs, a
very important feature of resemblance to the true negro
being in the nature of the hair. This is a valuable
diagnostic character in the main classification of man-
kind, since straight, wavy, and woolly hair respectively
are typical of the chief races. Skin colour is less im-

^ is not very broad, however, and some pygmies are mesati-

The head
medium-headed, if a middle term between broad and narrow is
cephalic, or
used. In any case it is a question of averages, individual narrow heads
being sometimes met with.
267
 HEAD-FORM
portant, but some pygmies tend to have a lighter tint
than that of the negroes there is, however, considerable
;

diversity in both groups. The jaws of the pygmies do

not show any special degree of protrusion (prognathism),
though the lips are sometimes thick and prominent.
The nose is usually sunken at the root, broad, and flat.
Except for the absence of prognathism, there is a fairly
close correspondence with the negroes, African and
Oceanic, in these characters. It is when we apply to
the pygmies the epithet " brachycephalic," or broad-
headed, that we distinguish them most clearly from the
negro, whose head is usually of such a shape as to call
for the application of the term " dolichocephalic," or
narrow-headed, to its possessor. That is to say, the
head of the average pygmy, as seen from above, pre-
sents an oval outline which is less elongated in proportion
to its breadth than that of the negro's head from the
same point of view. The difference can be expressed
in figures, but these may be taken for granted. It
is sufficient to say that this method of classifying

heads and skulls, although not now regarded as the

strongest crutch of the student of racial connections, is
a support upon which he feels justified in bearing with
considerable weight. Nothing is known as to the
advantages, if any, which might accrue from a change
in the shape of the head, nor have we any knowledge
as to the causes or conditions which might bring this
about. Even though we adhere to the orthodox belief
in the relatively permanent character of the average
head-form of races and peoples, the possibility of nar-
row-headed negroes giving rise to broad-headed pygmies,
or vice versa, cannot be excluded from our philosophy.
There is not sufficient evidence to prove either alterna-
tive, or disprove them both.
268

'«f
 Plainsmen and Pygmies
Two plainsmen and four pygmies. The cap and bags are of woven grass.

T
 ORIGIN OF PYGMIES
This brings us to the consideration of a theory as to
the origin of pygmies which has had some casual vogue.
The theory suggests that the pygmies are men of
stunted growth, fallen from their high estate, and
having their origin in unfavourable environments, where
want and hardships have led to a reduction of stature.
There are many arguments against this view, though it

has an attractive air of simplicity. The anthropological

pygmy question not solved by being passed on to the
is

physiologists and biologists. Insufficient food and other

privations may dwarf the individual, body and soul, but
it remains to be shown that a persistence of such con-

ditions through many generations will produce a per-

manently stunted race, whether capable or not of
regaining full stature under the influence of a new
and more benign environment.
Even on the assumption that the inheritance of
acquired characters has been a factor in evolution no —
—
small assumption there is no proof that the ancestors
of the pygmies lived under conditions less favourable
than their descendants. These are found at the present
day in close proximity to full- sized peoples, and it does
not appear that physically there is much to choose
between pygmy and Papuan or African negro in any-
thing but stature. Though they live the simple life,
the pygmies show no signs of degeneracy, and they are
known to be experts in their own line, which is that of
hunting. If, also, a woolly-haired pygmy is in ultimate

origin a dwarfed negro, he has succeeded in surviving in

several regions where the negro is no longer found, and
where he lives beside his reputed parent stock, as in
Central Africa, he has changed his head-form and his
skin-colour, as well as his stature, to an extent which
may be stigmatised as unfilial. The reduction hypo-
269
 VARIOUS VIEWS
thesis is emphatically not proven, and the discovery
of the Tapiro has added no evidence in its favour. The
dark-coloured woolly-haired Papuans of New Guinea
are dolichocephalic, and although they are of lower
stature than the average African negro, they stand
physically in much the same relation to the Tapiro as
the African negroes do to the Negrillos.
In rejecting the hypothesis of reduction by priva-
tions,we do not exclude the possibility that the pygmy is
a variation or a " sport," arising from the negroid stock
as a result of unknown causes, whether environmental
or physiological, or both. To take this view is to give
ourselves over to the elusive pleasures of speculation,
since, as in the allied hypothesis just considered, there
is a lack of any real evidence.At some remote period
in the history of man, it is possible that there was an
ancestral stock which gave rise to both pygmies and
negroes, or it may be that the latter are derived from
early types of the former. Either of these views seems
to be more in accordance with the existing relationships
than any theory as to the relatively late origin of pygmy
from negro or Papuan, whether by slow modification
or by mutation. It would certainly appear that the
pygmy more closely allied to the negroid peoples
is

than either of them to any other race, but further than

this we can scarcely go.
As to the significance of the physical features, and
the distribution, of negroes and pygmies in connection
with the wider problem of the origin of man, it is easier
to be discursive than pertinent. Both are found on
either the Indian Ocean, the African negroes
side
corresponding to the Oceanic negroes {i.e. the Papuans
and the less hybrid of the Melanesians of the Western
Pacific), and the Negrillos to the Negritos. It has
270
 AN OPEN QUESTION
been supposed, not without protests from America,
that man arose from his simian precursor somewhere
within a zone extending over the present area of dis-
tribution of pygmies, negroids, and great apes, this
zone including hmd which now lies beneath the waters
of the Indian Ocean. The real evidence we have is
certainly in favour of the old-world origin of man, and
the probabilities support the view that it occurred in
some part of the region indicated.
Apart from the extinct Pithecanthropus, apparently
an ape-like man or man-like ape, whose scanty remains
were found in Java some years ago, the area has not,
however, provided us with connecting links between
man and the existing apes. The fossilised bones of
some of these may lie below the surface of the land
and yet be discovered, or in the earth beneath the
waters and beyond our reach. In any case the modern
pygmies and negroids, although physically in some
points nearer to the existing apes than we are our-
selves, do not approach so closely to the animal
type as did our predecessors of Palseolithic times in
Europe. In many respects, indeed, the pygmies are
more infantile than simian. Whatever importance we
may attach to them they help us little in any attempt
to realise the characters of our remote ancestors, and
their position in any table of the general inter-relation-
ships of the races of man must remain unsettled for the
present.
So our labour of threshing has revealed a quantity
far
of chaff and little grain. It may profit us to turn our
attention to another and perhaps more fertile field, and in
taking this course we may at least obtain a clearer view
of the life and activities of the pygmy people, as well
as of the position they occupy in the scale of culture.
271
 PYGMY CULTURE
Taken as a whole, the pygmies have not advanced
beyond what is regarded as the lowest stage of recent
human culture. They are primarily hunters, and
collectors of such edible animal and plant food as may
practically be had for the finding. When, as in a few
instances, they have taken to the cultivation of food-
plants, it has usually been in a half-hearted way,
suggestive of distaste for the labour and lack of confi-
dence in the result, like a poacher saddled with an
allotment. The Tapiro, in this as in some other direc-
tions, appear to have adopted alien customs with more
thoroughness, since they grow sweet potatoes, taro,
tobacco, and bananas, presumably with success. Their
pile-dwellings, built on land, resemble those of the
natives of some other parts of New Guinea, and are
much superior to the wind screens and simple huts of
most other pygmies. Since the practice of plant culti-
vation tends to wean the hunter from his nomadic life,
by providing a constant supply of food in one spot, the
Tapiro have done well to model their houses on those
of a more advanced people, and so fix themselves still
more firmly to the soil. As far as can be judged from
the facts available, it is in agriculture and architecture
that the Tapiro have departed most widely from the
practices of other pygmy groups, though they have not
confined their borrowing to these activities.
The use of the bow, which is a relatively advanced
type of weapon, is common to all known pygmy peoples,
and it has indeed been suggested that they were the
original inventors of the bow and arrows. Spears,
clubs, and shields are rare, and when they are used the
possibility of the influence of other races cannot be
excluded. The methods of fire-making practised by
pygmies are all based on the production of heat by the
272
 THE USE OF STONE
friction of one piece of wood on another. The fire-saw,
the fire-plough, and the fire-drill are all in use, one or
more of them, by the different groups, and a "fire-
strap " method similar to that of the Tapiro is employed
by the Semang of the Malay Peninsula this method is
;

also used in Borneo, Assam, and by non-pygmy tribes

in New Guinea, so that it cannot be regarded as a
characteristic pygmy device, though it may be of
pygmy origin.
In the selection of the raw material for their tools
and weapons the pygmies present us with an interesting
example of the simplicity with which efficiency may
be achieved. Our studies of the early history of man
in Western Europe tend to imbue us with the idea
that in the absence of metal many of the tools and
weapons of backward races must be of stone, or
provided with stone points and blades. It is by a
consideration of the simple appliances of the pygmy
peoples that we arrive at the conclusion that stone is
by no means essential to primitive man. In tropical
regions at least, wood, bamboo, bone, and shell can
provide all that is needful for the hunter, and the use
of stone by the pygmies is practically confined to the
application, for certain purposes, of hammer-stones and
of flakes and splinters such as may be obtained with a
minimum of labour and skill. They do not make, and
it is not probable that they have ever made, the stone

axe-heads, knives, and arrow-heads which are charac-

teristic of many advanced stone-age peoples, ancient
and modern, and they do not even get so far as to chip
stone into implements comparable with those of the
men of the European Palaeolithic Age. The pygmies
are in an "age" of wood, bone, and shell, and if some
of them, such as the Andamanese, make use of iron, it
273 s
 ARTS AND CRAFTS
is only as a borrowed material, foreign to their own
culture. The Tapiro appear to have an axe and per-
haps other tools with iron blades, but whilst the axe
as a tool is no doubt derived from that of the Papuans,
the material for the blades must be introduced in the
course of trade and traffic. The Papuans themselves
are in their age of stone, though they show no reluctance
to adopt the iron of more advanced races.
In their arts and crafts the pygmies maintain the
simplicity which is characteristic of their life in general.
No spinning or weaving is practised, and the art of
pottery-making is only known in one or two instances.
Clothing is at a discount, but in the case of the women
very rarely entirely absent, and not always wanting
in the men. Even the ornamentation of the person,
whether by means of necklets and other "jewellery"
or by painting and tattooing, is not highly developed,
though considerable variation is found amongst the

different groups. The Tapiro, for example, appear to

be more than usually addicted to the display of orna-
ments, though they do not scarify or tattoo the skin.
True and indigenous musical instruments are prob-
ably wanting amongst the pygmies, and are represented
by such time-beating instruments as the curved wooden
board of the Andamanese, kicked with the heel as an
accompaniment to native dances. The "Jew's harp"
of the Tapiro is no doubt borrowed from their neigh-
bours. Decorative art is at a low level in most cases,
its highest development being found amongst the
Semang, in close association with a belief in magic in ;

this group patterns of considerable complexity, chiefly

of a geometrical character, are incised on bamboo
quivers, blow-tubes, combs, &c., and have the virtue
of warding off dangers and disease, or ensuring a full
274
 SOCIAL ORGANISATION
bag to the hunter. The Andamanese practise a kind
of painting with hquid clay or coloured wax, but the
designs are geometrical and undeveloped. We know
very little as yet of the decorative art of the Tapiro,
though the carvings on the arrows have a general
similarity to geometrical designs found on some Papuan
arrows. On
the whole, the material culture of tlie
Tapiro, even so far as it is at present known, appears
to have been very considerably affected by that of
other New Guinea peoples.
We hav^e no information as to the manners and
customs, and the social or tribal organisation of the
Tapiro, but if they are in agreement with other pygmy
groups there will be no departure from the prevailing
simplicity. Amongst these, totemism and clan systems
are wanting or rudimentary, hereditary chieftainship is
apparently unknown, and the social groups partake of
the nature of family associations, the villages, if such
exist, being always small. There is no ancestor cult
or ceremonial spirit-worship, but in some cases at least
a belief in supernatural beings is known to prevail, and
theremay even be recognition of a supreme deity.
Monogamy is usual, and women are not ill-treated.
Death appears to be regarded as a natural event, and
not, as in many other instances, as a result of witch-
craft or sorcery. Burial of the dead in the ground
is customary, though platform and tree burial are
occasionally practised in certain groups.
In spite of the smallness of their numbers, and their
insignificance in comparison with the larger and more
powerful communities by which they are in most cases
surrounded, there is no reason to suppose that the
pygmies are despised or despicable. They li\ e on good
terms with their bigger neighbours, whether negro or
275
 STATUS
other, and trade with them apparently on an equal
footing. Their habits are usually such as to render
warfare against them unsuccessful and unprofitable,
but it is probable that esteem is not lacking in the
toleration accorded to them. In some cases it is known
that they consider themselves the original owners of
the territory they occupy and of the surrounding
—
country, and their claim is admitted academically at
least— by their neighbours. Their form of speech is
usually closely related to that of neighbouring races,
and as far as is known there is no pygmy language
which presents especially primitive features.
There is no evidence that their low stature is asso-
ciated with defective mental development, and they
have in some cases been found to be at least as bright
and teachable as other lower races of full size. They
succeed in maintaining their independence, and they are
notably skilful in the chase, since the tiger, the rhino-
ceros, the elephant, and the buffalo, in Asia or Africa as
the case may be, are attacked and overmatched by their
agility and cunning. Morally they show no signs of
degradation, and, indeed, as far as the facts are known
they appear to be on a relatively high level in this
respect.
In review of the state of culture of the
this brief
pygmy peoples much has been omitted, and the parti-
cular has been submerged in the general, with a conse-
quent loss of precision. Little has been said as to the
intermixture that has taken place with other races,
though this has had important effects on both sides. It
has long been suggested that there is evidence of a
pygmy strain in some of the inhabitants of New Guinea,
and with the discovery of the Tapiro the postulated
Negrito influence has been shown to exist in reality.
276
 ANTIQUITY
Recently, also, Williamson has put forward the view that
the Mafulu and some neighbouring tribes of British
New Guinea are a mixture of Negritos, Papuans, and
Papuo- Melanesians
If we endeavour to arrive at conclusions as to the
antiquity of the pygmy peoples and their inter-relation-
ships amongst themselves, we find firmer ground than
when we attempt to discuss their origin and their rela-
tionships with other races. It is scarcely possible to
avoid the conclusion that the Andamanese, the Semang,
the Aeta, and the Tapiro form one race, more or less
contaminated in the different localities. The same must
be said of the various Negrillo tribes of Africa, and w^e
thus assert that there is justification for the classifi-
cation of the pygmy tribes into two main groups. That
these two groups are closely allied is highly probable,
and in this case there is a pygmy race. Whether we
speak of this race as a whole, or confine ourselves non-
committally to the Negritos and Negrillos as two estab-
lished groups, we are justified in the provisional belief
that we are dealing with the scattered and reduced rem-
nants of an ancient race (or of two races), whose former
wide territory has been invaded and annexed, in some
cases many times over. They have been swept aw^ay
into obscurity by a succession of alien brooms. The
material and social culture of the pygmies bears a
primitive stamp, suggestive of persistence since the
infancy of man, and they appeal to us as true aborigines
wherever they are found. Who
or what came before
them we are at liberty to conjecture, bearing always
in mind that in their physical structure they are
practically as far removed from the apes as we are
ourselves.
In conclusion, the definite record of pygmies in New
277
 VALUE OF THE DISCOVERY
Guinea is an event of great importance, and all anthro-
pologists will be grateful to this expedition and its

leaders. The discovery does not solve the pygmy

problem, but it provides additional clues and also
throws light upon the riddles of racial admixture in
New Guinea. Further investigations are not likely to
lead to disappointment, though new questions and new
difficulties will no doubt arise. It is, however, no
cause for regret that discoveries in science, like social
revolutions, open up more problems than they solve.

H. S. H.

278
 CHAPTER XX
Return to the coast— No coolies —A fine dancing hall— Native music
—
Dancing The tocsin of war A — false alarm — A peaceful time—Myriads
of crabs — Native children — Childrens' games —Methods of fishing
Brush turkey

THE end of November.

adding specimens the
With
to
the exception of
zoological collection, it

must be remembered that at this period the expedi-

tion was " marking time." To all intents and purposes
coolie transport was non-existent, and it was useless to
hazard a guess as to the time when a fresh supply would
be obtained, seeing that Goodfellow, suffering from
malaria and beri-beri, had departed by a ship which
called on 5th October, and it was doubtful as to when he
would be in a fit state to recruit new men. The time of
engagement of the few remaining coolies was nearly at
an end and, in order to husband our advanced stores
everyone, with the exception of Grant and an escort,
moved back to Wakatimi. Shortridge was likewise
seriously ill, fever having again attacked him upon his
return from Australia. He did his best to conceal his
illness, but it was manifest that he could no longer
stay in the country, and must leave by the first boat.
On the way down
seventeen canoes were passed,
compact mass and filled with those who,
travelling in a
a month previously, had fled from Parimau to escape
the floods. They seemed much pleased with themselves
and begged us to return, the mothers showing with
pride their last born, whilst VVollaston's patients exhi-
279
 NO COOLIES
bited their healed wounds, caused principally by the
steel axes and knives which were usually wielded with
more enthusiasm than discretion. Their wealth of axes
and knives had bred in them a feeling of superiority
over the coast people, and had encouraged them to
cross the dividing of their tribes and camp on the land
of their enemies. The Wakatimi people at the mouth of
the river were either too timid or too engrossed in their
pursuits to resist the invasion, but that the raiders antici-
pated reprisals was evident to judge from the scouting
canoes in the rear and the close formation adopted.
Early in December the relief ship arrived, but to
our intense disappointment without bringing a single
coolie, and the only information we could obtain was to
the effect that a fresh lot might be expected before
Christmas Day.
There was no help for it we had to wait and fill in
;

the time as best we could and prepare, as far as possible,

for the advent of the men. The survivors of our last
detachment were placed on board, with the exception of
two who still wished to stay with us, as they had gambled
away the whole of their pay, and were afraid to return
to their homes without a penny in their pockets. We
were sorry to lose them, for they had worked well and
had undergone much hardship since joining the expedi-
tion eight months previously. They had been recruited
mainly from the island of Buton, from whence come,
with the exception of the Dyaks of Borneo, the best
men to be found in the Dutch East Indies.
Shortridge and Wollaston likewise sailed, the former
for England, the latter on a visit to the Utakwa and
Island rivers where Dutch expeditions were then at
work, and from thence to Merauke, the chief Dutch
settlement in the Possession.
280
 A FINE DANCING HALL
Marshall and to our own resources, moved to
I, left

the coast and pitched camp on the seashore close to the

village of Atabo. Our new neighbours proved less
interesting than those of Parimau, more sulky in their
manners and more grasping in their dealings. Eoth
this village and Taroke opposite had grown considerably
in size, and a fine dancing hall, by far the largest build-
ing we had yet seen, had been erected. Made of mat-
ting, it had a length of fifty feet, a width of fifteen and
a height of eighteen feet. The interior was completely
bare, except for half a dozen fireplaces round the sides,
and for decorative purposes strings of hanging grass
stretched from wall to wall. Five doorways gave
entrance to a floor of white sand. It was altogether an
ideal place in which to dance and sing, pastimes beloved
of the native and not only by the native, but much
;

appreciated by us.
Among the happiest recollections of our sojourn in
New Guinea remain the memories of concerts begun
in the evening and often carried on throughout the live-
long night. The music, whether associated with funeral
rites or festivities, was invariably pleasing to the ear, and
most charming when wafted across the still waters of
the lagoon. To the accompaniment of a single drum,
or a very orchestra of drums, supported by the deep-
toned hum of the chorus, the vocalist extolled the
pleasures of life, the joys of the chase, the thrill of
the battle and, if we had been liberal in distributing the
wages of the day, the perfection of our humble selves.
He sat cross-legged, bedecked in a head-dress of plumes
of the Greater Bird of Paradise, facing the drummers
and surrounded by the entire male population of the
village, affording as pleasing a sight to the eye as the
chant was to the ear.
281
 NATIVE MUSIC
The tunes were varied and harmonious, to which
the chorus imparted a touch of savagery which did not
detract in the least from the perfection of the whole.
Each verse concluded with a chorus which rose an
octave and finished with a bark like that of a dog, given
in perfect unison. For hours on end was this carried
on, one singer giving place to another until the night
sped by in a ceaseless flow of melody. Attempts were
made to place their music on record, but without much
was hard to master, but
success, not that the tune itself
that itwas found impossible to obtain a grip of the
chorus reinforcement. Now and again three or four
vocalists would perform together, their plumes waving
in the air and affording one of the prettiest sights
imaginable.
Women are never allowed to add their voices to
those of the men ; they are rarely heard at all
in fact,
unless they are abusing one another or telling their
masters what they think of them. In place of singing,
they are permitted to dance, in which form of amuse-
ment the men take no part, regarding it as much be-
neath their dignity, but assist in so far that they wield
the drums. The musicians, facing inwards and with
bodies bent, slowly advance and retire keeping time
with a stick or, if the performance is being carried out
in darkness, then with a flaming torch. The women
are drawn up in rows and bedecked in all their finery,
special care being taken to adopt a light and feathery
form of skirtmade of bark-cloth or leaves ; or, as it

so often occurred when in our presence, of a sheet of

the Daily Mail, the most popular of all dresses. The
dancing was to us both uninteresting and monotonous,
and consisted merely of as little shuffling of the feet as is
compatible with the maximum undulatory movements
282
 A Dancing Hall
Erected at the mouth of the Mimika River.

Taiiro Pygmies
Seated upon the roots of a tree felled by a stone axe, and discussing the situation.
 THE TOCSIN OF WAR
of the thighs and buttocks. The prima donna of Pari-
mau was a comely wench, loving the plaudits of the
crowd, and whose self-satisfied air when performing was
worth going a mile to see.
Soon after daybreak men would wander round to
the camp and settle themselves in groups close by,
partly to see what they could pick up in the way of
food, and partly because they were bored with their
existence and wanted something to talk about. At the
same time the women and girls would troop away over
the sands in search of shell fish. There was nothing to
disturb the daily routine of the women's work or inter-
fere with the habitual sloth of the men.
The days dragged on with never-failing monotony,
till one morning when the community was galvanised

into life. We were sketching at the time, when down

the river echoed a deep-toned " AVo," followed almost
immediately by the appearance of two canoes, the
paddlers working at a furious rate. In a moment the
men were racing, some to their huts and others to their
dug-outs. The tocsin of war had sounded no doubt
;

a familiar feature previous to our arrival. Frantic efforts

were made to launch the canoes left high and dry by
the tide, and to collect clubs and spears from the houses.
Everyone screamed their loudest. The women and
children, shrieking and crying, made confusion worse
confounded by tearing down the attap roofing of the
huts, flinging their goods and chattels into the canoes
and snatching up scraps of half-cooked food. Fires
were scattered in the rush, the dogs howled and refused
to be caught, then, leaving most of their goods behind
and taking not the slightest notice of us wandering
about in their midst, the whole population, including the
maimed and sick, bundled into the boats, and paddled
283
 A FALSE ALARM
hurriedly away. The advance canoe had by now
reached the village and the news they brought merely
added fuel to the fire. All we could make out was
that the Wania and Kamura men were advancing
no one had time or breath to tell us more. Once on
the water the people began to collect their scattered
wits, and a plan of action was soon concocted. The
old men, women and children paddled away from the
threatened flank and out to sea, whilst the able-bodied,
grasping spears and clubs, advanced upstream to the
attack preceded by small swift canoes. Many youths
doubled along the beach and joined forces with the
men of Kokonau (a village to the west) who had
likewise taken the alarm, so quickly does ill news
travel.
Marshall and I were now left in full possession of
the village, with the exception of howling dogs and
squealing pigs, frightened out of their wits by the
unusual clamour. Every soul had vanished and we,
knowing of no better place from whence to watch the
coming fight, remained on the beach, intently listening
for the blood-curdling yell which would be certain to
herald the attack. The minutes sped by and nothing
happened. Great was the disappointment therefore
when, within an hour, the warriors returned, reporting
the alarm as false, and the dominating thought in their
minds now being that of hurrying on their wives to
prepare the morning meal. No clue was obtained as to
how the alarm had originated, nor did it appear to cause
any further interest. Within two hours the village had
been rebuilt, fires were burning, children playing around,
women working, and the whole incident forgotten.
Such must have been the alarms to which these people
were subjected previous to our arrival, ever living in
284
 A PEACEFUL TIME
constant dread of their neighbours, each village being a
law and a force unto itself.
With the exception of this one small excitement,
the days passed peacefully enough, thoroughly appreci-
ated by us after the months of strenuous life in the
stifling jungle. Here we had the soft warm breezes
of the ocean, miles of firm white sand to walk upon,
and almost rainless days. During the first two or three
hours of the morning the mountains, though sixty to
seventy miles distant, showed up hard and distinct
against the sky, with the result that the survey work,
oft repeated, was finally brought to completion.
Pleasant indeed were those fine mornings, as, work
over, we reclined beneath the casuarina trees, watched
the waves lapping the sands at our feet, and listened
to the preparations for a breakfast of fresh-run fish
meals to look back upon, for few fish can equal a per-
fectly fresh grey mullet. Caught by the natives, brought
straight to the tent, exchanged for a piece of cloth
or a few beads, and put right on to the frying-pan,
there was to us nothing to equal it in the world. Then,
after the meal, it was pleasant to stroll along the sands
and visit the various small fishing villages dotted about
the coast, there to talk with the people and play with
the children. Everyone says the natives of New
Guinea are blood-thirsty savages perhaps they are,
;

but they were decent enough to us, and without

them the days would have hung still more heavily
on our hands. It is easy to imagine that three weeks
of this life worked wonders with our debilitated systems
and thoroughly prepared us for the final advance which
daily loomed nearer.
Collecting went on apace, the assistants kept at
work from morn till night skinning and preparing birds,
285
 MYRIADS OF CRABS
while the native urchins ferreted around for all creep-
ing creatures for the spirit bottles. At first the boys
earned their pay easily, as whatever was brought was
sure to be new and therefore required. All forms of
life were abundant. On two occasions the sands for
acres in extent became yellow with armies of long-
legged crabs, all tramping westwards. These for amuse-
ment we drove into a solid mass when, with one accord,
to avoid our threatening gestures, they dug hurriedly,
and thousands had vanished from sight.
in five seconds the
Another day violet-coloured crabs swarmed, then crabs
with one immense yellow claw, others with one white
claw, spotted crabs, rough crabs, smooth crabs an —
everlasting change. Little wonder that the gi-ound-
sharks are so numerous, with such an endless supply
of their favourite food swarming over the bed of
the sea.
As a result of scrupulous fairness and prompt pay-
ment for work done and purchases made, the Atabo
men steadily improved in manners and willingness to
please. The drunkards, realising that there was much
to lose and nothing to gain by presenting themselves in
a fuddled condition, kept clear of drink or postponed
their debauches whilst the remainder, when no manual
;

work was required of them, often assisted the boys to

collect reptiles and insects, a task eminently suited to
their lazy natures.
Sometimes we would play with the children, who
by this time had lost all fear of us. Instead of bolting
for the shelter of their huts on the first view of the
dreaded white men, they now strolled around close at
hand, assisted in removing the baggage from the boats, or
lent a hand where wanted. One chubby little girl in par-
ticular never failed to meet us the moment we landed
286
 CHILDREN'S GAMES
from the canoe, and grasping a hand solemnly escorted
us to the tent. Her father did his best to spoil her by
telling her to ask for things, but she had not yet learned
the sordid ways of the world, and having seen us
safely home, would toddle quickly back to her hut.
The children have few games by which to work off
their animal spirits, and usually play at being " grown-
ups," and, being almost amphibious in their habits, take
part in every imaginable form of water sport. The
more indulgent fathers will sometimes fashion miniature
canoes for their offspring, in which exciting races and
imaginary hunts take place. Failing a boat, a log will
do just as well, the difficulty of balancing such a crank
craft only adding to their pleasure. A
boy may often
be seen coming down stream on a rolling tree-trunk,
walking round and round the stem as it turns over.
Little dots who can hardly stand will take a great
canoe out all by themselves, and with poles they can
hardly lift steer her through the current. What they
lack in strength they make up for in perseverance and
skiU,
On shore one of the favourite amusements of the
miniature huts, inside which they creep,
girls is to build
crowding and chattering together, supremely happy.
For the boys there are the more manly sports of bow
and arrow shooting, wrestling, and fighting with the
feet. Puzzles with string are popular, many of the
combinations being very similar to what one often
sees in England. The paucity of games practised
by the children is probably due to the scarcity of
open ground, which is never to be found except on
the seashore, or, to a very limited extent, at the bends
of the rivers.
While the lazier men and the children were scour-
287
 METHODS OF FISHING
ing the jungle for reptiles and insects with which to
enrich the zoological collection, those more energeti-
cally inclined were fishing along the coast or in the
creeks, where food may be obtained almost for the ask-
ing. The native methods of catching fish are rough,
but sufficiently effective in this place of plenty. To
the smaller creeks the women proceed daily, and fixing
string nets stretched on a bamboo bent into a circle
across the mouths of the inlets when the tide is in, re-
move the entrappedfish when the water falls. Each
owner, and when not in use is tabooed by
inlet has its
the usual method of suspending a string across the
mouth, from which hang bunches of leaves a custom ;

common, I believe, throughout New Guinea. When

the sign is up, none dare enter or fish therein.
Our larger-sized fish-hooks were in much request,
the smaller ones not finding favour, as the savage could
never be taught that large fish could thus be held
when hooked. Of native-made hooks there were various
patterns, fashioned from shell or bamboo, many even
having a barb. In the shallow waters along the coast
upright nets are also fixed to entrap the simple fish.
At other times, and more particularly in the deeper
waters, spears and bows and arrows are in most request
but for the finest form of sport nothing can equal the
harpoon, excellent examples of which are in daily use.
Some of the heads are of iron, but as metal is scarce,
cane and bamboo are far more often used. The head is
fixed to a wooden cup, into which is placed the shaft
when required for use. From the head a strong rope
passes loosely round the shaft, the end being held in the
hand, so that when the fish is struck the head becomes
detached from the handle, and the strain is at once taken
by the rope. Many great fish, including sharks, are thus
288
 THE BRUSH TURKEY
captured. The
sport must be grand, as the frail canoes
require the most perfect management if disaster is not
to result. Given a powerful hard-fighting fish, a thin
line and hook, a rickety canoe, and everything manu-
factured by the sportsman himself, rough water and a
dinner waiting, and what Britisher would not change
places with the sea-coast Papuan, while the sport lasts ?
Now and again a few black and white pigeons were
shot by the Gurkhas, and until the supply ran out, the
brush turkey, brown or black in colour and about the
size of a chicken, could always be trusted to fill the
larder. A peculiar characteristic of this turkey is that
the hen lays an egg one-third her own size, so great in
fact that unless seen it appears impossible for the body
to hold it. Many were shot, and when brought into
camp were found to be on the point of laying when
killed, a slight squeeze being all that was required to
discharge a meal sufficient for a hungry man. Another
point worth noting that the eggs are laid in the centre
is

of a five or six-foot high mound of wet leaves, scraped

together by the parent birds, and then left to incubate
by the heat of fermentation. When born the young
work a way out of the stifling nest, and as soon as they
are free are able to fly and fend for themselves.
The bushes round the camp contained large numbers
of an immense spider I know not its name, but it is
;

well known in other parts of New Guinea. They have

soft, balloon-like bodies,and spin a web of great strength.
It hasbeen commonly stated that these webs are utilised
by the natives as fishing-nets, and that large fish are thus
secured, but I am afraid this is an unsubstantiated yarn.
Nevertheless, it is a fact that the children do take the
webs off entire by slipping a ring of cane below, and
that in them they will carry fish the size of sprats.
289 T
 SKETCHING AND BATHING
Some day, perhaps, this wonderful cord will be turned
to a practical use.
Thus peacefully employed the time passed slowly
but surely by, and though many hours of the day were
spent in sketching, bathing, and walking on the sands,
the quiet life at length began to pall, for it was impos-
sible to blind oneself to the fact that all this was a terrible
waste of time, and an irretrievable loss of the only six
fine weeks in the year.

290
 CHAPTER XXI
Unpromising — The problem of the — Our motor boat — DiflBcult
coolies hills
navigation—Interested motives — A double murder — Organising the
advance — The advance to the mountains — Papuans and the axes
A change in the river — Crossing the Wataikwa — A flooded river
Coal — Rock formation — Unpromising prospects — An arduous climb
—A grand outlook
SUCH excellent work had been put into the derelict
motor boat by the Dutch pioneers that she was
now able to take the water, and by dint of incessant
bailing to keep afloat. To put the rusty and disabled
engines into working order Marshall and I returned
to Wakatimi on 22nd December.
On the following day the relief ship Valk arrived
from Merauke, having on board WoUaston and forty-
eight coolies for us, and more for Cramer. Goodfellow
had sufficiently recovered to collect these men, and
had departed direct for England we were pleased to
;

hear that, though still suffering from fever and beri-

beri, he was steadily improving in health. From him,
by order of the committee, I took over command of
the expedition.
It was a depressing sight to see the new coolies
disembark, for instead of the fine men we had
been expecting, they proved to be worse than any
—
previously landed weedy and immature corner-boys
and street loafers of Macassar. As much unused
to forest life as they were to hard work, these ill-
developed specimens of humanity were not the kind
to enable us to set out on our final attempt to reach
291
 PROBLEM OF THE HILLS
the mountains along boulder-strewn rivers, over rocky
ridges and through swampy jungle, with much pros-
pect of success.
By their behaviour whilst at Merauk^ it might
have been supposed that they at any rate had a cer-
tain amount of pluck in their compositions, as they
attacked with knives the Dutch guard placed to keep
the more riotous ones in order. When with us they
were as peaceful as lambs, loathing work and going
into hospital whenever they could be admitted.
Still they had to be utilised, and any further delay
would only add to our difficulties.
Despite the unpromising nature of the transport,
now was the time to push on if a real attempt was
ever to be made to penetrate any distance into the
mountains.
It was nearly a year since we had first set foot in
New Guinea, and our entire effijrts up to now had taken
us but seven marches to the headwaters of the Mimika,
and four more by forest paths to the east. With the
Mimika as the line of communication and supply it
was very evident that, even with the finest transport
force in the world, the feat of reaching the snows was
beyond the power of any expedition. Still it w^as out
of the question to acknowledge defeat, and we were
determined not to leave the country until every pos-
sible branch of the work had been accomplished.
There remained, therefore, the problem of how to
arrive at the highest accessible hills in the near vicinity
of the Snow Mountains, where the ornithological and
botanical collections might be enriched and the survey
work completed.
AVith this object in view, the food supplies, of
which we had now at Wakatimi sufficient to last
292
 OUR MOTOR BOAT
the entire expedition three months, were transferred
to Parimau as quickly as possible. In this work the
motor boat was of great assistance. The three months'
rest on the mud, and the daily soaking by the tide
had so affected the engines that they could scarcely
be moved by hand, much less be induced to run of
their own accord. Cleaning and overhauling, how-
ever, gradually improved them, and on the last day
of the year the launch deigned to run for five minutes.
On the first day of the new year she ran beautifully,
and with the object of testing her powers, Wollaston
and I took her out to sea, visiting the fishing villages
and incidentally purchasing two canoes, of which we
were in much need. From there we went on to the
sources of the Watuka, a river we had believed to be
an ofF-shoot of the Kapare, but which, despite the
large amount of water brought down, now proved to
be only a jungle-fed stream. These were two of the
pleasantest days I spent in New Guinea, for to suc-
ceed in making a broken-down and apparently useless
machine run sweetly gives infinite pleasure and well
repays the days of labour expended on it.
With the assistance of the launch, two journeys
sufficed to deposit at Parimau sufficient food supplies
to last the entire force between seven and eight weeks.
What perfect music it was to listen to the regular
explosions in the music which meant the
cylinder,
saving of days of heart-breaking labour and incessant
struggle against the current, taking all spirit out of
the men, and responsible for as heavy a toll of victims
as any forest march. Pleasant it was to sit quietly
in the boat and watch the river banks slowly gliding
past as march after march was completed, and to see
the heavily-laden canoes ploughing their way through
293
 DIFFICULT NAVIGATION
the water. Many, liowev^er, had still to be worked
up-stream in the old way, for on account of the turns
and twists of the river the motor boat could not pull
everything, and a grounding led to horrible confusion
and the snapping of ropes and supports.
Even the weather favoured us, far less rain falling
than during January of the previous year this, added
;

to the fact that the camping grounds were clearer of

undergrowth and consequently less infested with mos-
quitoes, helped to keep the men fit.
One disadvantage, however, was that there was
little water in the river, and the boat had to be

bumped and driven over the tangled mass of wood

which encumbered the bed. Consequently we could
only travel half-way to Parimau in this luxurious
idleness, the launch then returning to the base camp
to bring up fresh relays. All further advance had to
be made by canoe, for the river dwindled to a mere
trickle joining the dark and silent pools, and the boats
had to be hauled from one to the other by the united
efforts of the entire force. Alligators, seldom of great
size and not very numerous, basked on the sandy spits,
but never made themselves objectionable, and on our
approach would seek refuge in the deepest and darkest
recesses of the undermined banks. As mile after
mile was covered the difficulty of moving the heavily-
laden canoes increased, and it seemed to us that every
tree which had fallen during the past century had
been placed in the very best position to block our
way. Lifting the heavy canoes bodily over the
trunks, forcing them between others, turning, twist-
ing, and rocking, the slow progress was continued
till on the fourth day we reached Parimau, assisted

for the last few miles by natives, who, with the pros-
294
 INTERESTED MOTIVES
pect of receiving an axe in payment our
for carrying
goods forward, had assembled in considerable numbers.
Though one would like to believe that these people
had some real affection for us, unsullied by ulterior
motives of obtaining axes, knives and cloth, I fear
that their demonstrations of pleasure on seeing us again
were assumed only on account of benefits to come.
Marshall had preceded Wollaston and myself, and
with the object of collecting carriers had already set off
on a three days' trip to the village of Ibo, on the Tuaba
River. His object was crowned with success, and he
came in shortly after our arrival with a string of fifteen
vociferous men, all, as usual, loudly proclaiming their
willingness to carry our goods to the very summit of
the topmost pinnacle. This talk we well understood
and appreciated at its proper value the only question
;

in our minds was whether a single man would turn up

when the day of departure should actually arrive.
On the 4th January a double murder was com-
mitted in camp, the mandoer, or chief convict, being
attacked by one of his own men. There was no evi-
dence as to how the quarrel started, the two men being
first noticed when feinting with their knives. They
closed before anyone could interfere, and without any
attempt at parrying, each drove his knife up to the
hilt in his opponent's chest. They sank to the ground,
and were carried, of all places in the world, into our
dining-room, but it was at once evident that nothing
could be done to save their lives. They expired within
a few minutes and were buried on the evening of the
same day. Their comrades displayed but little interest
the use of the knife in the East is of too frequent
occurrence to cause a lasting or even a temporary
impression on the minds of these half-civilised men.
295
 A DOUBLE MURDER
The sergeant, who by
the way was a foreigner, took
charge of the burial ceremonials, and was evidently
quite determined that for his part nothing should be
lacking which the importance of the occasion demanded.
Drawing his sword, and placing himself between the
graves, he harangued the spectators. " Men," he said,
" this day two servants of the Government have lost
their lives at the hands of each other. Were they not
both good men ? hein." " One man very bad man,"
chipped in an officious convict, but a glance from the
offended sergeant made him wish that he had never
spoken. " Whether they will both go to heaven I
cannot say," exclaimed he, " but I think Allah," point-
ing upwards with his sword, " will first purge them with
fire. Take this as a lesson." Then, drawing himself
up to his full height as befitted the occasion, he re-
turned his sword with a clank to the scabbard, and as
far as the public was concerned the ceremony was at an
end. The sergeant, however, had not yet finished
returning to his hut he refreshed himself with a few
glasses of gin, and played on the mouth-organ the
national anthems of the three flags under which he had
served. This terminated the funeral obsequies, and
with the exception of the official report and the entry
in the accounts, " To one bottle gin for disinfecting
corpse," nothing remained to mark the sanguinary
affair. Like many stories, this account probably owes
much to embellishment. This incident was followed
up by one of our own men stabbing another in the
abdomen, but without fatal results. Temporary in-
sanity was the excuse, but when the case was investi-
gated the evidence was not such as to bear this out.
In addition to the I bo natives who had come over
with Marshall, others had accompanied us up the river,
296
 ORGANISING THE ADVANCE
and to these were added during the next few days the
stragglerswho had been fishing on the Kapare River.
On the 11th January Cramer arrived with thirty-five
men, the combined forces occupying every available
foot of ground.
One or two questions troubled us considerably. In
the first place it was doubtful how many natives could
be relied upon actually to give assistance and secondly,
;

as every white man would be required in advance and

would be fully occupied with his own particular work,
it was difficult to arrange for the supervision of the trans-

port in rear. This had to be worked in the most eco-

nomical manner possible, and based on certain guiding
principles first, to hurry on the white men and their
:

goods as fast and as far as possible and second, to

;

accumulate, without unnecessary delay, a sufficient

food supply at the front. Acoolie load weighed
twenty-five lbs., and it was calculated that ten days'
supplies for a force of thirty men collected at some
imaginary camp two days' march up the Iwaka River
would be sufficient to enable us to accomplish our task.
Unfortunately a considerable proportion of the force
consisted of men who could not assist in the carrying
—
of food-stuffs four Europeans, three Gurkhas, and two
Dyak collectors, each of wliom was burdened with a
rifle or gun and a weapon wherewith to cut a way

through the jungle.

On the first day of the advance forty coolies only
were available, eight having already completely broken
down. To these must be added some Javanese con-
victs and such Papuans as could be persuaded to lift
a load.
A definite plan was arranged, though it was obvious
that everything was liable to alteration, as nothing was
297
 ADVANCE TO THE MOUNTAINS
known of our course beyond the first camp on the
Iwaka, and it remained to be seen whether a ford could
be found farther on in the mountains, and what unfore-
seen obstacles lay ahead. The general lie of the river
was unknown, but from native reports and from what
could be seen of the mountains, we gathered that the
river came from the east, beyond the ring of moun-
tains we wereanxious to ascend. If this should prove to
be correct, there was no reason why, with ordinary luck,
we should not be able to ascend Mount Godman, and
at that considerable altitude collect specimens, and
complete the survey of the country lying between that
region and the snows.
For the accomplishment of this task it was necessary
that a ford should be found, or a crossing made to the
opposite bank of the Iwaka within two days' march of
the camp. Then after forming an advanced post and
accumulating ten days' supplies, we might reasonably
hope to climb the mountain and complete the work we
wished to carry out.
We moved forward in two parties. With the first
went Marshall, Grant, two collectors, two Gurkhas,
forty coolies and the same number of natives. In
addition Cramer sent forward thirty of his men and
three soldiers under the European sergeant. They
formed by far the largest body of men we had been
able to get together since our arrival —
a most cheering
sight. The advance, however, had to be postponed for
one day owing to the forest being rendered impassable
by the rains which had started afresh. This was not
altogether unexpected, for we had learnt by our experi-
ence in the previous year that the only time at all
suitable for travel is from the middle of October to the
—
end of December or with luck to the middle of
298
 ADVANCE TO THE MOUNTAINS
January. It is possible that this is overestimating the
length of the unfavourable period, for I am inclined to
believe that 1910 was an exceptionally wet year, in
which much of the old forest land was washed away
and entire swept out of existence.
villages
The continual tramping forwards and backwards
during the previous twelve months had transformed
the formerly indistinct but fairly sound path leading
to the Tuaba into a series of break-neck traps, in which
a tangled mass of roots was hidden beneath a bog of
—
black and sticky slime a road not at all to the liking
of our new and soft-footed coolies from Macassar.
In order that Grant and his Dyaks might be
enabled to reach the highest ground attainable with as
little delay as possible, JNIarshall, on arriving at the
Wataikwa River, sent back the remainder of the coolies
to Parimau, and taking with him a party of fifteen
men, pushed across to the Iwaka, and advanced another
two marches up the right bank. Since no tributaries
were met with, by crossing which we might the more
easily reach the longed-for ring of mountains, the forest
was cleared at this point, and a permanent camp con-
structed. Marshall then dismissed his Papuans, who
returned to Parimau at full speed, received their axes
and vanished for good. Cramer, Wollaston, and I
started shortly afterwards, accompanied by a much
smaller number of coolies, thirty-five convicts, and
eight savages eager to earn the coveted axe-heads.
The we knew that
natives were laden to the utmost, as
they would only make one journey, and felt justified in
getting as much out of them as possible. On the
other hand, the coolies were but lightly burdened, for
by giving them small loads they would last all the
longer.
299
 PAPUANS AND THE AXES
Parimau camp was left as silent as the grave there
;

remained only the sick and a solitary Gurkha, who

had to take upon himself the combined duties of sentry
and nurse.
Just before our departure half a dozen of Marshall's
Papuans arrived, and poured into our ears a pitiable tale
of misfortune. Their careless wives, w^hen paddling in
separate canoes on the previous day, had all upset in one
place or another, and every axe-head had been lost and ;

as this was an accident, they said we would, no doubt,

present them with others in their place. Much to
their disgust this little plan did not meet wdth the
success anticipated, and they then asked to be taken
on again for a fresh journey on the same conditions
as before. However, the loads were already packed
and their services were not required. They had acted
their parts in this little play with considerable skill
and appropriate facial expression, but it was a poorly-
thought-out scheme, and with a little more care a very
much better story might have been concocted.
The crossing of the Tuaba proved an exciting busi-
ness, and would probably not have been effected at all
had not the Papuans taken upon themselves the whole
management of the river transport.
The Wataikwa was found to be in flood, and the
island upon which the storehouse had been erected
was most precarious position. Great changes had
in a
taken place since I last saw it, four months previous.
Thirty yards of solid land then lay between us and the
main stream, and on this had flourished numerous great
trees of many years' growth. This land had vanished.
The river, a foaming turbid torrent, now raced past
—
within a yard of the hut so close indeed that on the
preceding night one of the supporting poles had been
300
 CROSSING THE WATAIKWA
violently struck by a great log as it sped down-stream.
The place was not at all to the liking of the Gurkha
who had been left in charge, particularly as he was
unable to swim, though swimming would not have
availed him much had the flood swept over the island,
separated as it was from the mainland by a deep

channel. In order that anxiety on this score should

not prematurely age him, he was given permission to
sleep for the future on the mainland, where Cramer's
go-down was situated. The island itself had been
occupied for six or seven months, and the depot con-
sisted of a permanent tent, the cook-house, and a store-
house containing every ounce of goods which it was
possible to accumulate at the front.
Curiously enough the most important section of the
storehouse, though undermined by the river, remained
standing right up to the night of our final departure
one of the supports vanishing into the river as the
last load was removed.
With the aid of a rattan rope which two of the
more agile men succeeded in fixing from bank to bank,
by the following morning everything was transferred to
the opposite side of the river. The Papuans worked
excellently, not only carrying loads three times as
heavy as those borne by the coolies, but carrying them
much faster. Wollaston and Cramer remained here
in order to despatch the transport, whilst I went on,
though by a different route, to the old forest path
which had cost us so much labour to construct some
months before. That had long ago been abandoned
as impracticable for coolie transport, and a fresh one
planned which made a considerable sweep to the south
and lay entirely in the plains. The construction of this
had been superintended by Wollaston w^hen he relieved
301
 A FLOODED RIVER
us in August, and it proved superior in every respect
to the old one.
The two days' journey up the
bank of the
right
Iwaka along the path already prepared by Marshall
showed clearly enough the difficulties he must have en-
countered when hacking his way through the forest. As
far as possible he had kept close to the river, but cliffs
and ravines had so often blocked the way that in many
places the working party had been forced to make a
detour high up the mountain side where it was difficult
even for unladen men to maintain their footing.
Anxiously we scanned the valley in the hope that
a ford might be found which had possibly been over-
looked by the advance party. The river scarcely altered
in width, and there was never any sign of change of
direction until at the sight of a great valley
last
opening out to the east made us feel sure that the main
river did flow from that direction, and that it would
therefore be unnecessary to cross to the opposite bank.
Full of joy at this stroke of fortune, we once more
entered the forest, to emerge an hour later on to
Marshall's camping ground, only to find the hateful
river still racing past in undiminished volume and force.
As on many former occasions, we had been once more
deceived. The site occupied by the camp was a wild
jumble of rocks, the interstices filled with decaying
vegetation it was, however, the only possible place in
;

the valley, and suited us perfectly when once platforms

had been built spanning the chasms.
We were in a cup, hemmed in on all sides by
mountains. Immediately behind the camp was an
imperceptibly moving landslide, reeking with moisture,
over which hovered clouds of butterflies sucking the
water from the wet rocks. The movement of the earth
302
 ROCK FORMATION
had left many seams of coal varying
exposed to view
in thickness from four to eight inches, but so soft and
poor in quality that when placed in the fire it would
scarcely burn. Dr. Lorentz found coal of a like quality
above the Nord River, and brought some back with
him to experiment with in his launch. The Hon.
Stanisforth Smith, during his late adventurous journey
in the British section of the island, found coal which he
declared was of a hard and good quality. It seems
likely therefore that coal exists in almost all parts of
this land, but whether it can ever be worked and made
to pay another matter.
is

It was not easy to discover the rock formation in

the valley of the Iwaka. In the actual bed of the river
a channel had been cut through many strata of perpen-
dicular slate, while on either side clay, sandstone, and
the main stratum of limestone could be distinguished.
Lower down the river a few boulders of granite were
found, small in size and far from numerous, while at
several spots there were traces of tin^, copper, and
much iron ore. From a commercial point of view, a
discovery of greater interest was the dead patches
of forest found near the coal system and on the ridge
to the west of the camp. Here there were strong
indications of the presence of kerosene oil, suffi-
cient in quantity to have killed many square yards of
vegetation. What we would like to have discovered
was gold, but despite much washing at every likely
spot, not a grain of this metal was brought to light.
Beyond this we were unable to discover anything of the
rocks and minerals of the plains and lower foothills, for
unless a cliff or landslide is examined immediately it is
formed it becomes so quickly clothed in dense scrub
as to defy all attempts at investigation.
303
 UNPROMISING PROSPECTS
Though the plain was shut in on every side, one
could not but admire the immediate surroundings of the
camp. At our feet tumbled the foaming waters, on this
day clear of mud whilst immediately opposite, growing
;

from the very water's edge, and from the crevices of the
jagged slate rocks, flourished the most luxurious masses
of tropical vegetation, chief amongst which was the
beautiful tree fern. From the background rose mighty
mountains towering in every direction, their summits
wreathed in fleecy clouds, the lower slopes tinted by
the setting sun, altogether forming a most impressive
scene of tropical glory.
Our pleasure in the surroundings, however, was soon
dispelled by the news brought in by Marshall, whose
discoveries with regard to the prospects of a further
advance to the east had been anything but promising.
The river had been examined for miles up-stream and
down without a ford being located or a tributary found,
which by diminishing the volume of the main stream
might enable a crossing to be made. Dozens of trees
had been felled in fruitless attempts to span the torrent.
The worst news of all was that the Iwaka for the next
three or four miles continued to flow from the north,
and from what could be seen from the lie of the
mountains there was no reason to expect a change
of direction.
A path had been cut for over two miles up the south
spur of a mountain lying to the north of the camp, and
this, if it led nowhere in particular, at least promised a
fair view of the surrounding country and the general
course of the river. Along this path Marshall and I
set out at daybreak, the going underfoot being excellent
and the ascent gradual and regular. In this case a
natural path had been formed along the crest, and the
304
 From above Iwaka Cami'
Looking towards Wataikwa Mountain. Precipice under cljud in the background.

Tui, Waiaikwa River

This river, either by wading or swimming, had to be crossed daily.
 AN ARDUOUS CLIMB
dead timber having fallen down the slopes on either
hand left an unencumbered line between. By ten o'clock
we had climbed to an altitude of 2500 feet and entered a
zone of stunted moss-covered trees streaming with mois-
ture. Though we hurried on as quickly as possible and
wielded the kukries with the utmost energy, the summit
was not reached before the neighbouring country had
become shrouded in mist. We
were able to see, how-
ever, that when some trees had been felled a fine
view would be obtainable in all directions. There was
nothing to be gained by waiting where we were, for
in New Guinea when once clouds have descended upon
the mountains there is no change, so it remains for the
rest of the day. We therefore returned to camp for
the night.
Next morning, accompanied by two Gurkhas and
one coolie, I set out again as soon as it was light,
each of us laden to his utmost capacity wuth tent,
blankets, food and cooking pots, for I was determined
not to return without having made a detailed map of
the whole of the surrounding country. None of us, with
the exception of the coolie, were used to carrying heavy
loads, and having piled the things upon each other's
backs we set out, much amused
at our appearance and
as frisky as kittens. What
animal we resembled on
reaching the top I do not know, but T know that we
arrived at long intervals and very silent. I had no idea

that loads could increase in weight so rapidly. The

summit was cleared of trees and the tent erected, but
until sufficient water had been squeezed from the moss
no food could be prepared. Spring water was not
obtainable on the summit, but with the regular evening
downpour of rain there was no difficulty in keeping the
pots well filled.

305 u
 A GRAND OUTLOOK
Morning broke to show us that our shelter was
perched on the highest pinnacle, with mountains all
around, like a lighthouse in a tempestuous sea. The
outlook was grand in the extreme, and the atmosphere
so clear that the very rocks of the great precipice to the
north could be clearly distinguished, but with the dark-
ness of the night still hanging in the valleys it was as
yet impossible to make out the true course of the Iwaka.
Gaze as we might, we could arrive at no other conclusion
than that the valley straight ahead must be the valley of
the Wataikwa, in which case the Iwaka must flow from
the east at a spot we had already passed. But this
could not be, for the east was hemmed in by a ring
of mountains through which no river could possibly
have passed.
The wind changed, and with it was borne the distant
sound of rushing waters, not ahead to the north but
from the valley to the north-west. Further investiga-
tion with glasses discovered a dark and gloomy ravine
cutting the southern slopes of Wataikwa Mountain,
from which issued the river of that name. There was
no mistake about it this time, as its course could be
traced close to our old camping ground of months before,
and past the Wataikwa camp itself. So completely
hidden was the gorge which had thrown us wrong that
even when looking into it from this elevated position
its sheer walls were hardly to be seen, and no clue of its

existence could possibly have been obtained from the

plains. Had Marshall and I during our journey six
months ago been able to continue up its bed for a few
more hundred yards, we should have solved the problem
and saved ourselves much labour. Since the old camp-
ing ground could be distinguished four miles to the
south-west, and as the slopes on that side of the mountain
306
 A GRAND OUTLOOK
were easy, a patli could have been cut up to where we
were in one day's march.
Directly to the east lay the ring of mountains the —
goal of this present journey.
Scarcely six miles separated
us from the eastern brim, and yet how hopeless the
task now appeared, with the Iwaka running strong and
impassable between.
To make quite sure that the gorge to the north did
contain the Iwaka, and to remove any remaining imcer-
tainty that the might be a tributary of the
latter
Wataikwa, we dropped on to the col and commenced
the climb to the mountain itself. From there the river
could be seen, and at length satisfied that no otlier
course lay open to us but to cross the Iwaka, we retired
to the main camp on the river, arriving at the very
moment when Wollaston appeared with fresh stores.
The journey to the mountain-top had been successful
in two ways ;it had enabled me to add a large amount

of accurate plane-table work to the map, and had also

conclusively proved that if a further advance was to be
made eastwards, some means must be found to cross the
Iwaka River.
No time was to be lost. Ten days' rations for the
whole force were now collected, and within this period
the advance and return had to be completed.

307
 CHAPTER XXII
— —
Searching for a ford A dangerous undertaking A plucky Gm-kha
— —
Building a bridge Second stage of our advance The stores an im-
— — —
portant factor Effects of temperature Bad going Reduced rations
— — — —
Miserable coolies A race with the clouds Success A fine view
The Nassau range — Oil — —
and minerals The Utakwa River Mount
— — —
Idenburg Tapiro Mountain Plains and rivers Doctor Lorentz
— —
The price of success The retiu-n journey A feast and its results

UP till now every attempt to span or ford the river

had ended ignoniiniously, as the trees, breaking in

two they fell across the cliasm or failing to reach the
as
opposite bank, were at once swept away by the torrent.
Having collected Gurkhas and coolies and
the
explained to them what was required, a reward of a
hundred guilders was offered to the man or party of
men who would construct and form a bridge which
would allow our force to cross to the opposite bank of
the river. Full of eagerness to win this substantial
sum of money, the men split up into several parties
and went off* in the hopes of felling a sufficiently high
tree with which to span the torrent, the Gurkhas
moving down- and the coolies up-stream. The result
of the coolies endeavours was soon evident to us from
the numerous great trees which came swirling past
the camp all with their backs broken. In the evening
they returned dejected to report complete failure. The
Gurkhas, on the other hand, came in about five o'clock
with the news that one of them had succeeded in
crossing the river with the aid of a rattan fastened to
his waist. He had proceeded up-stream to a tree
308
 A DANGEROUS UNDERTAKING
which had been previously noted from the right bank
as standing in a favourable position, and had felled it
with such precision that it had remained spanning the
river two feet above the water. Even though the river
was lower than usual owing to the fine weather, tlie
accomplishment of this feat required both pluck and
enterprise, and was a feather in the cap of the Gurkhas.
Having hastened to the spot and inspected the
trunk, we fixed it more firmly with stones, and Avere
able to suspend a single strand of rattan creeper from
bank to bank at a more suitable site some small dis-
tance up the river. Fortune had certainly been on our
side so far, but lest we should find the problem too
easy, an immense flood poured down the river that
night and swept the frail bridge out of existence. A
flimsy rope of rattan now formed our only connection
with the opposite bank, and unless one man at least could
be got across, the construction of a permanent bridge
would be impossible. Three feet beneath the rattan
raced the swollen torrent, and if the rope should break it
was certain death to anyone trying to cross. Still the
bridge, even at the risk of life, had to be built somehow,
otherwise any further advance would be checked and
our past efforts wasted. I offered heavy bribes to the
coolies to attempt the passage, but though they were
eager enough to have the money, none would venture
on to the swinging rope. The value of the bribe was
increased several times but without effect, not a man
would undertake the job and at heart I sympathised
;

with their fears.

There was, however, an exceptionally brave man
present, one who was ready to make the attempt with-
out offer of reward. Jangbir, a Gurkha and an ex-
military policeman, who had recently been promoted
309
 A PLUCKY GURKHA
Havildar, was noticed unostentatiously fixing a girdle
of rattan round his waist. He and anotlier excellent
compatriot, Herker Jit, had come to the conclusion
that Jangbir, being the lighter man, had the best
chance of hauling himself across hand-over-hand and
might succeed provided the strand did not break. In
the event of the rope giving way, his life might still be
saved by a line of thin rattan fastened round the waist,
by which his comrades could draw him back to safety.
The feat was a particularly nasty one to attempt, for
the rattan was weak and flimsy, and were it to sag in
the torrent the tremendous strain would inevitably tear
the man from his hold.
hands grasped the rope whilst Jangbir
AVilling
lowered himself into the river and, hand-over-hand,
started on his perilous journey. The force of the
current dragged his body level with the surface, but
he made rapid progress till half-way across when the
speed slackened owing to his being now on the upward
grade. It gradually became slower and slower, for the
strain was beginning to tell, and strive as he might
he could not pass the three-quarter mark. Every
eye was fixed on Jangbir, and encouraging shouts
raised urging him to make one supreme effort, and
—
then the waist rope caught the water and the weight
stopped him completely To draw it taut was only to
!

make the position more critical, so it was paid out

rapidly in the hope that the momentary relief might
enable him to continue his efforts. This unfortunately
only made matters worse, for the force of the water
was such that it was all he could do to maintain his grip.
It was now only a matter of seconds when he must
be torn away and the second stage of the proceedings,
the attempt to save his life by means of the waist line,
310
 The Gurkha Jan(;kik
Hero of the bridge-building episode.

Stanning the Torrent

The bridge thrown by the expedition across the Iwaka River.
 BUILDING A BRIDGE
would have to be carried out. Then hajipened the
most fortunate thing imaginable. The waist hne, of
which quite eighty feet were taking tlie full force of
the water, suddenly snapped. Relieved of the weight,
Jangbir, with one last effort, completed the few remain-
ing yards, and pulled himself exhausted on to the land.
I never felt so thankful in my life. For it was one of
the best actions carried out in cold blood that I have
ever had the good fortune to witness.
With one man on the opposite bank the work of
building the bridge proceeded apace ; more rattan was
passed across and tied to the trees until finally a strand
of five thicknesses was in position, along which an agile
man could pass in comparative safety.
All through the second day the work was continued,
and by nightfall the bridge was complete, when even
a one-legged cripple might have crossed with ease. It
was built after the style of the ordinary Himalayan
suspension bridges the two upper parallels, each formed
;

of many strands, served as handrails, whilst below and

between them hung the footway, also consisting of
one thick rope. From one handrail to the other, and
beneath the foot-rope were passed loops, so that the
weight of the passenger should be equally distributed,
and the whole sufficiently strong to allow the laden
coolies to cross in safety.
The building of the bridge had taken three out of
the ten days for which food supplies had been collected ;

a serious loss, and one whicli could not be rectified by

sending any more coolies to the rear, as out of tlie forty-
eight landed six weeks previously there only remained
nineteen fit for work, and every one of these was
required to carry forward rice and equipment.
On the morning of the 8tli February, thirteen months
311
 THE AVAILABLE STORES
after our landing on the coast, the bridge was crossed
and the next stage of the advance begun. The path to
the east, which followed a gently sloping valley, inter-
sected with numerous ravines, had already been pre-
pared for a distance of a couple of miles, and along this
good progress was made. The three Gurkhas who had
been told off to clear the way worked hard and fast,
until at midday they struck a new valley and a fresh
river, the latter as clear as crystal and fordable. It
flowed, as we had hoped and expected, from the ring of
mountains we wished to reach. Pushing on for another
mile up-stream we camped for the night on a fairly open
spit of sand, which was quickly prepared for the tents,
though a swarm of infuriated bees for some time dis-
puted its possession with us. We were actually in the
gorge of the amphitheatre of mountains, and the road
to be followed was clearly defined by the valley ahead.
On the next day only four miles were covered, the going
getting worse and worse as we went on. Ravines from
the neighbouring mountains not only impeded our
passage, but forced us now and again to make a detour
far up the hillside, away from the river.
We had quite counted on turning the corner of the
mountain at the end of this day's march, but an un-
expected spur not only prevented this, but in addition
formed an obstacle to circumvent which would entail a
march of many extra miles. The stores available were
now only sufficient for five more days, and it was fully
realised that if we continued the march in the present
direction it was more than probable that we should be
unable to reach the summit at all. The end of the
mountain ring lay to the east, and we therefore decided
to force a passage up this spur and then to work our
way along the top though we quite appreciated the
;

312
 EFFECTS OF TEMPERATURE
fact that the view would probably not be so extensive
as that to be obtained from Mount Godman, we felt
that it was better to make certain of what was witliin
our reach than to run the risk of not obtaining any
results at all.

Accordingly the next morning we began to ascend

the spur of this ugly rounded mass. At first much
cutting had to be done and the progress was slow, but
once on the narrow ridge the going was better, and we
eventually reached a camping-ground over two thousand
feet above the river, and three thousand two hundred
above the sea. Further progress that day was not pos-
sible, for the limit within which water was obtainable
had already been passed, and there was no immediate
prospect of rain. Water sufficient for the cooking of the
rice and assuaging our thirst was obtained that night
from a waterhole in the neighbouring ravine.
As might be expected in this land of adversity and
disappointment, now that we would have welcomed it,
no rain fell, and as there was no chance of any springs
being found higher up, we might anticipate further
trouble unless a storm should break on the following day.
The ground chosen for the bivouac was particularly
bad, but it was the only spot at all possible. Before
long the camp took shape, trees were felled and laid
across the hollows and fixed from rock to rock, or
balanced on other trees. Amidst the bustle of pitch-
ing the tents there was time to notice and appreciate
the difference in temperature compared with that to
which we had so long been accustomed. Here, though
damp, it was both cool and fresh, and though we en-
joyed the change, it was not at all to the liking of the
coolies. Two men fell out from sickness, Pulman,
a Gurkha, who had damaged his leg badly when ford-
313
 BAD GOIKG
ing the river and was now incapable of walking, and a
coolie stricken with fever.
At daybreak the ascent was continued, and as the
forest of the previous day gave place to a labyrinth of
tangled vegetation, four cutters were now required.
The great trees, checked in their upward growth, sought
to spread their limbs nearer to the ground, twining and
twisting round one another, and forming such a con-
fused mass of vegetation as to check all advance till,

by slashing and cutting, a passage was made.

Everything was reeking with moisture. Glistening
drops of water fell incessantly from the festoons of moss
which, hanging from the trees, had the appearance of
the softest of mantles. Exquisitely beautiful were the
caves thus formed, over, through, and under which we
forced our way. They seemed like veritable enchanted
halls until the incautious shaking of a bough brought
down such a shower of earth and water as to dispel the
illusion.
Up and up we moved along a narrow ridge toward
our goal, every now and then catching glorious peeps
of the plains below, which at this early hour sparkled
with light where the sun's rays were reflected from the
winding rivers. On arriving at the summit another
disappointment awaited us so rounded was it that
;

even from the top of the highest trees no view could

be obtained. We had now reached an altitude of
5400 feet, and here the camp was pitched. During the
last 1000 feet of the ascent no solid ground had been
seen, and we had to walk on a thick layer of live or
dead timber which covered the soil. On this insecure
footing the heavier members of the party had fared
badly, for what would carry a nine-stone man was
often unable to bear the weight of an extra three
314
Women using the Stone Axe to split firewood

The Camp at 5400 feet

The tents pitched on a six-foot layer of decaying timber.
 REDUCED RATIONS
stone. Here, at the camp, many feet of timber and
rank vegetation lay between us and the ground.
The cutting party sent forward to prepare a road for
the morrow reported, on their return at dusk, that the
going on the summit and along the crest of the hills
became worse and worse the farther they progressed.
No rain fell during the night, and the single tin of
water which had been carried throughout the day's
march had to be supplemented by moisture wrung
from the moss. Allowing sufficient food for the return
journey, but one day's rations now remained, and even
this was less than the usual quantity served out.
The next morning, leaving the camp standing, so as
to shelter the miserable coolies, we set out at daybreak,
and taking with us the four best cutters, moved along
the path previously prepared. Progress was terribly
slow, and when the summit was reached we found that
it would be necessary to advance still farther, as no view

was to be obtained in any direction. The ridge now

began to narrow, falling away steeply on either hand.
Hour after hour was spent hacking and hewing a way,
the occasional glimpses of the country below encourag-
ing us in our labours. Then, at a height of 5600 feet,
we suddenly attained our object and arrived at the very
kind of spot we had so long been striving to find.
We found ourselves on the narrowest of ridges, with
the ground, bare of trees, dropping sheer on either side.
The low shrubs were at once removed, and there we
sat hoping against hope that the mist might clear.
Instead of this it gave way to a dense fog, which we
knew full well would last till nightfall. With our
spirits at a low ebb we returned to camp, and ordered
that the one small ration that remained should be
divided into two, for to retire when success was well
315
 MISERABLE COOLIES
within our grasp was quite out of the question. With
only dirty water in which to cook the rice, and knowing
that they would have to spend one day more, frozen to
the marrow, in their present camp, the coolies on hear-
ing this were reduced to a pitiable state of distress.
Indeed, a more miserable-looking collection of men it
would be hard to imagine. Huddled together for
warmth, too wretched even to light a fire or to raise a
leafy protection against the wind, they had remained
—
almost inanimate since daybreak such were the men
who had been enlisted to undertake the journey to the
snows ! Had the most perfect road lain before us, and
had the gradient been ever so little upward, it is doubt-
ful if we could have got more than one other march
out of them.
The night was cold and damp, so much so that the
men detailed for the advance were astir long before the
first faint light of the coming sun showed in the east.

A hasty cup of tea and we were off along the old track.
In the dark this was found to be a continuous series of
pitfalls owing to the most rotten pieces of timber having
collapsed under the strain of yesterday's traffic. We
scrambled and climbed on those that would not break,
or wormed our way beneath, increasing the pace as we
drew nearer and nearer our goal. The march soon
developed into a race, the fear of the clouds which we
knew would form as soon as the sun was an hour in the
skies, spurring us on to fresh efforts, for we were deter-
mined that nothing should defeat us now that our
object was so nearly attained. Wet to the skin from
the exercise and the drippings off the trees, we broke
out at last upon the open ridge to find not a cloud in
the sky, and the most glorious view that I have ever
seen unfolded before our eyes.
316
 A FINE VIEW
Not a moment was to be lost — we had no time at
present to examine the beauties of the landscape the ;

first thing to do was to set up the plane-table and

fix the position of as many as possible of the long-

desired points. map was filled

Steadily the detail of the
in, till at length all was and not a moment
finished,
too soon, since the clouds had already hidden the higher
peaks from view and were rolling down the distant
mountain sides.
For another hour we sat and gazed and gazed, first
one way then another. In all directions the land lay
spread before us to every point of the compass could
;

we turn, recalling to our minds our past failures and

speculating as to the possibilities for exploration in the
future. How
different the land looked when seen from
above ! Where we had imagined lay the course of one
riverwe found another a hill here, a ravine there, were
;

now exposed to view, though all had been hidden from

the level of the plain and we realised how impossible
;

it is to discover the trend of rivers in a. mountainous

country when merely viewing them from low ground.
To the south, for in that direction our eyes first
wandered, in the dim and hazy distance stretched the
faint coast line, straight and unbroken except for three
large bays formed by the mouths of the Kamura, and
what we took to be the xViika and Newerip rivers^bays
capacious enough to hold the entire fleets of Great
Britain, but rendered useless to the smallest craft by
the bars which either close their mouths, or upon which
breaks so heavy a surf that only in the calmest weather
can canoes cross in safety. From the distant outline
of the coast almost to our feet, and from the Charles
Louis mountains in the far west for another fifty miles
to where the rugged spurs of Mount Carstensz closed
317
 A FINE VIEW
the view in the east, the interminable jungle stretched
unbroken. It was through this dark and almost track-
less forest,hideous in its monotony, that we had been
attempting to force our way for so many weeks. Not
a single break was there, not a clearing, not a lake or
grassy plain —
not even a whisp of smoke in the midst
of the immensity —
nothing but the black and forbidding
forest shrouding the bogs and fetid vapours which lay
beneath, and tenanted only by birds of gorgeous plum-
age, by snakes and other creeping things. Through
this interminable growth turned and twisted great
rivers, vanishing into the gloom only to appear again as
glittering streaks of light, beautified by the straggling
lines of mist still resisted the warmth of tlie
which
morning sun. At
our feet the mountains fell abruptly
away to the plain, over five thousand feet below.
Turning to the north, in the foreground we could
see the ring of mountains upon the end of which we
stood, culminating in Mount Godman, a long five miles
away, although in the rarefied air appearing close at
hand.
Beyond standing out hard and clear, rose the
this,

great precipice, the southern face of the central range

which divides this land into two distinct parts, the
northern and the southern. Black and forbidding
towered the great cliff, seared and scarred with the
passing of ages, and forming a barrier which at this
point would defy any efforts of man to scale. Formed
of hard limestone, the stratification of which could
easily be seen with the naked eye even at this distance,
it from Mount Carstensz in the east for eighty
stretches
miles to the west, where it gradually drops away to the
valley dividing it from the Charles I^ouis Range. The
highest point is IVIount Leonard Darwin, named after
318
 THE NASSAU RANGE
the late President of the Royal Geographical Society,
a castellated peak near the centre, with an altitude of
14,000 feet above sea-level. The face here has a clear
drop of little short of 10,000 feet, or about If miles
far and away the greatest precipice in the world. To
the east and west it is nearly as high, but the full sheer
heights we were unable to determine with exactitude, as
we never had the theodolite with us when the summit and
foot were visible at thesame time, or I should say wlien
the foot was to be seen from a point the height of which
had been already fixed. Nevertheless 6500 feet of sheer
rock was measured from the spit of sand at the mouth
of the Mimika, and the remaining distance had to be
calculated by eye, and by the known drop of the river.
As the range is continuous, the limestone is probably
of the same age as that met with by Dr. Lorentz one
hundred and fifty miles farther to the east. Her
Majesty the Queen of Holland has graciously per-
mitted us to name this particular section the Nassau
Range. Mighty boulders and ridges of .bare rock lie
along the foot of the precipice, some too steep to allow
any vegetation to obtain a foothold others kinder in;

their slopes, being clothed to their summits.

Though in the light of our present knowledge it
would be rash to state this as a certainty, taking into
consideration the lie of the strata, which dip to the
north at an angle of 25°, the absence of any fair-
sized streams running from the north and beyond, and
the fact that we could see no mountains still farther
off, it appears very probable that the precipice forms the

water-parting between north and south Dutch New

Guinea in this area.
The
face of the rock shoAvs little signs of ancient
weathering, and in the plains stretching from the foot-
319
 OIL AND MINERALS
hillsto the sea the soil is entirely alluvial, with no
outcrops of rock even in the river-beds. These facts,
together with the shallowness of the Arafura Sea, lead
one to believe that a great "fault" runs from end to
end of the island.
Of what the mountains from the foot of the precipice
to the plains consist it is impossible to say with cer-
tainty from what was revealed from one or two land-
;

slides it seems probable that they are mainly composed

of limestone. I have already mentioned the other rock

formations which we came across, namely, the outcrop

of coal at a distance of nineteen miles from the pre-
cipice, and the perpendicular slate formation in the
Iwaka bed near the same place. In addition, a few
granite boulders are to be found scattered about the
beds of the rivers, and there are indications of the
presence of iron, tin, and copper. Though the finding
of oil-bearing ground near the Iwaka camp and close
to the coal strata is interesting, owing to the prohibitive
cost of development and transport the discovery possesses
little commercial value.
In the middle distance, between the great precipice
and the point where we were standing, rose the splendid
peaks of the Wataikwa and Tuaba mountains, with
their outlying spurs nearly as massive as themselves.
Then to the east, the conspicuous and not over-
beautiful Cock's Comb Mountain met the eye, to which,
curiously enough, the Dutch Utakwa expedition had
given an identical name. Beyond lay the valley of the
Utakwa, a river which was then being explored by
the expedition under Lieutenant van der Bie and
Lieutenant Postama. That great river had originally
been chosen as our line of communication, but Avas
abandoned in favour of the Mimika. For seventeen
320
 MOUNT IDENBURG
miles from themouth of the Utakwa the steamer could
ascend with ease to the first base camp, then for two
days more navigation was by means of launch, and a
third day by canoe. From this most advanced point
the exploring party had pushed on and cut their way
for seven marches through the forest to within seven-
teen miles of Mount Carstensz. They had been nearly
one year in the country, but such difficulties had been
encountered, mainly connected with transport, that the
expedition had eventually been withdrawn and the
members transferred to take part in the Island River
expedition farther to the east.
Cock's Comb was already partly lost in cloud, but
to the north towered the mighty peaks of Carstensz,
16,000 feet of rock and snow, and the three newly-
discovered pinnacles of Mount Idenburg, so named by
us after the Governor-General of the Netherlands India.
This great mountain is a stupendous mass of wild and
broken rock, steep and precipitous below, seared with
black and uninviting ravines and fissures. Above, on
an easier slope, a sheet of snow and ice stretches for
miles ;here a smooth snowfield, there a tumbled
glacier, partly inshadow, partly in glittering light, but
standing out allthe whiter by contrast with the dark
rock below. These snows, and also two other peaks a
mile or so to the north, had all been visible from the
mouth of the Mimika, but from nowhere could a suffi-
ciently detailed examination of the great mass be made
to enable one to judge whether it is climbable by man.
This question can only be solved by actual trial, and
the attempt is being undertaken at this present moment
(December 1912) by AVollaston, who has again entered
the country. This time he has a well-equipped and
perfectly-organised expedition, and with the Utakwa or
321 X
 TAPIRO MOUNTAIN
some other equally favourable river as a line of advance,
it is my confident and earnest hope that he will achieve
success in the same way as did Dr. I^orentz in his second
attempt to climb Wilhclmina Peak. If he succeed
—
and I believe that he will it will be by taking a line of
advance up some narrow valley to tlie west of Mount
Carstensz, and between that and Mount Idenburg.
AVhether he conquers or not great difficulties lie before
him, of which cold, want of food, transport troubles,
and precipitous cliffs are only a few. In spite of these
obstacles, however, once he has arrived at the snows at
a height of 14,000 feet, the way to the summit will
prove to be comparatively easy compared with that
which lies behind.
Turning now to the last quarter of the compass, the
Tapiro Mountain with its spurs and neighbouring ridges
lay to the west. This range, along the slopes of which
we had so often moved, is the home of the small
mountain men never a sign, however, was there of
;

the Mimika River, which, as we well knew, rose at its

southern foot and flowed from thence direct to the sea.
It was too small and too insignificant to show itself in
the com^^any of its greater sisters, and we searched in
vain for a break in the forest which might indicate its

presence. The Kapare, several miles beyond, could be

easily distinguished throughout its course from the
mountains to the Arafura Sea.
As gazing over this vast country we examined from
above the plains and rivers over which and through
which we had passed, and observed the new ones which
still blocked the forward road, and the turns and twists

of the forest- clad ravines that still remained to be

conquered before the highlands of perpetual snow
could be reached, it was borne upon us that the task of
n*>v»
 DOCTOR LORENTZ
reaching Carstensz, with the Mimika as a line of com-
munication and approach, was utterly impossible. As
long as the expedition was tied to this line the quality
of the transport and the food-supplies mattered little.
Had these been better we should have penetrated
farther into the interior, but should have added little
more to our knowledge of the country. These errors
of direction are, however, inevitable when pioneer ex-
ploration being carried out in whatever part of the
is

world it may
be. Now that the correct river or rivers
for a line of advance are known, there is no reason why
a determined and perfectly equipped party should not
succeed in reaching Carstensz. AVhen once the river
has been selected it must be kept to and never left, and
however slow the advance may be, however rough the
road, there must be no weakening in the determination
to push onward, ever onward. That is the only way to
obtain successful results in this otherwise impossible
country.
Doctor Lorentz, a traveller whose work has earned
him well-deserved credit, some few years ago attempted
the task of reaching the snows from a point one hundred
and fifty miles to the east of where we were working.
In 1907, with a well-equipped expedition, he had worked
up the Nord River for many marches, in an endeavour
to reach Wilhelmina Peak, but was at length forced
to retire. This was, however, not till after he had
found a practicable spur leading straight to his goal.
Returning in 1909 with a freshly-equipped expedition,
and working on the knowledge of the country he had
already acquired, he was this time completely successful.
In this district, where all rivers flow from the north
to the south, it is not practicable to attempt, as we had
done, to force a way east and west, for any river one
323
 THE PRICE OF SUCCESS
comes across may at any time cut the line of retreat or
block the line of advance. In addition to this, thick
and almost impenetrable jungle, the total absence of
local food-supplies and means of transport, and the
periodic flooding of the country during the rainy seasons,
combine to render such cross journeys an altogether
impossible feat.
For an liour we and gazed upon the scene,
sat
absorbed in its grandeur and desolation. It is a land
whose past history is hidden in the mists of time, and
one without a future, since it can never be occupied by
civilised settlers. Here, as everywhere, a weight of
silence lay upon the scene there was not a sound,
;

nothing beyond the chatter of two small black-caps,

twittering with surprise at the unwonted presence of
man.
Our work was done. Our quest, though falling
short of what we had hoped for, had succeeded. But
at what a cost of life, money, and time
And so back to camp, to pack up for the morrow,
and once more to make the most of one of the meanest
of meals of which I had ever partaken, and to dream,
whilst huddled in the blankets, of the joys of home,
which were now measurably within our reach.
Down poured the rain, and with it rose the spirits of
the coolies thirst might be quenched, and water col-
;

lected in which to cook their last handful of rice and :

above everything else, there was joy in the thought

that to-morrow they were to start the return journey
home from this dreaded jungle, and that before long the
flesh-pots of Amboina would be seen again.
Cramer and his men had unfortunately been com-
pelled to return the day before, their supplies having
come to an end. Picking up the sick men we had left
324
 THE RETURN JOURNEY
behind, he had carried them to the river camp, whence
they were taken on by us. Our coolies now carrying
light loads, the Iwaka camp was readied in one long
march, and there we found that Cramer had already
retired, and that Grant, having met with considerable
success in collecting new species of birds, had likewise
followed suit and gone back at full speed.
We had hardly realised the eagerness felt by every-
one to cover the return journey in the shortest possible
time, and had calculated upon an average of 1^ marches
each day. As a matter of fact, we accomplished double
marches, and no halt was called till the Wataikwa was
reached and the whole party was once more together.
A large tent and a couple of flies, together with a few
of the more useless articles, had been left standing on
the bank of the Iwaka River, and there they may remain
to the present day, as it is hardly likely that any of the
Papuans will revisit that desolate spot. The bridge
also must long since have departed, as rattan ropes will
not stand a continual strain for more than two months
at the outside.
We had made up our minds a long time before that
the return to the Wataikwa should be celel^rated by a
great feast, and though no meat was to be obtained, we
had reserved for this event a bottle of whisky and a
small plum-pudding which had been brought by Short-
ridge on his return from Australia.
The time had now arrived.
Marshall and I, feeling that it was a long time to wait
till dinner, thought that we should like a taste of the

drink early in the afternoon the pop of the cork, how-

;

ever, was too much for the keen ears of Wollaston, who
quickly came out of his tent and appeared on the scene.
After some discussion it was decided that the occasion
325
 A FEAST AND ITS RESULTS
was worthy of a lon<^ drink, that tlie joUification should
be thorough, and the bottle finished that evening. The
plan was carried out in its entirety, but the results
—
were most disappointing the more we drank the more
depressed we became and then, as a climax, when the
;

diminutive plum-pudding was placed before us there

remained not a drop of whisky, the flaming spirit of
which might have served to conceal its meagre pro-
portions.
We retired to bed more disappointed than words
can tell.

326

i
 CHAPTER XXIII
Preparing to leave — Bashful pygmy women — A hurricane — Motor boat on
— The Atoeka River—A cordial welcome — Inspecting a village
fire

Dancing halls —A return visit — Keen traders — The Kamura —A colli-

sion — Kamura village — A wild-looking crew — Attacked — An erratic
motor — A glorious bay — Gorgeous coloured
fish— Return to Wakatimi
THERE remained the exploration of the coast,
still

and the transference of the stores and equipment

from Parimau to Wakatimi, before we could consider
ourselves free to leave the country. An application
had already been forwarded to the Dutch authorities,
requesting that, in accordance with a promise given to
us when in Batavia by the Governor- General, a ship
might be despatched in order to transport the entire
force from New Guinea to Amboina. No boat could
arrive for this purpose till after the 1st April, so that if
we split forces there was more than sufficient time to
complete everything which remained to be done.
It will be remembered that during our last visit to
Wambirimi, the home of the pygmies, we were led to
believe that the women of the tribe had been on the
verge of showing themselves, and it was now thought
possible that heavier bribes, added to the knowledge
that we were about to leave the country for good,
would be sufficient inducement to tempt them to leave
their hiding-places and come into the open. Strong
in this belief, Marshall and Wollaston at once set out
for the hills on their seven days' journey, well equipped
to take photographs and measurements of these bashful
ladies when once their scruples had been overcome.
327
 BASHFUL PYGMY AYOMEN
They camped on the same ground as before, and
were quite prepared to meet with as varied experiences
as had been the case with us four months previously
the httle men, however, now that they knew we were
not a dangerous crew, and had not come with the
intention of burning their huts or devastating their
plantations, hardly turned up in sufficient numbers to
make it worth while unpacking the cameras. The
women were absent as usual, so to induce the men of
the tribe to bring them back, a still more profuse and
enticing array of bribes was laid out than on the former
visit. At first one axe was offered, and this failing to
work the oracle, two were finally held out as an induce-
ment for them to do what we wished strange to say,
;

it was all without effect, though the price was really

a preposterous one, one axe alone being sufficient in the

plains to purchase a woman outright. This was pointed
out to them, and when it was further explained that
only the shortest of appearances was required, some of
the youths, desirous of obtaining the reward, were seen
to waver, and would probably have succumbed to the
temptation had it not been for the disagreeable old
headman, whose influence was sufficient to veto any
such attempt on their part. A whole day was wasted
in trying to persuade these stubborn people, and as
there was no sign of yielding, WoUaston and Marshall
packed up their belongings, and disregarding the appeals
for free gifts of axes, took every piece of trade goods
back to Parimau.
We could never make out why this hill tribe refused
to bring forward their women-folk. They had had
intercourse with us for over a year, and knew that our
promises of reward were always fulfilled, and that no
woman from the races of the plains had ever been
328
 A HURRICANE
interfered with. Yet show them they would not, and
to our great regret we had to leave the country without
obtaining a photograph or even a fleeting glimpse of
the feminine half of this interesting race of pygmies.
It has been suggested that the pygmies possibly
objected to bring forward their women on account of
the presence of the big men from the plains. Women
in the lowlands are scarce,and it is conceivable that
such covetous desires would have risen in the breasts
of the Papuans as to have led to a raid on the
mountain village as soon as we were clear of the
country.
To obtain no sight of the women was a great dis-
appointment to all concerned, for, judging by the men,
it probable that the women would have averaged
is

but little over 4 feet in height as to their appearance,

;

style of dress, and what ornaments they wore, if any,

we were left in complete ignorance.
While this journey was in progress I had moved
with the first lot of baggage to Wakatimi, to find on
arrival that during our absence in the hills a hurri-
cane had swept over the camp, levelling one-third
of the houses to the ground, including the hospital,
a barrack-room, two storehouses, and our dining and
sleeping rooms. The Dutch soldiers and convicts
had, however, worked so well under the orders of
a quartermaster that little evidence of the damage
could now be seen, and new houses had been built
of sufficient strength to resist any storm under the
force of a cyclone.
The work of surveying the rivers to the east of the
Mimika was postponed for several days owing to two
reasons firstly, because the west monsoon, which was
;

then blowing, rendered the bar at the mouth of the

329
 THE ATOEKA RIVER
river impassable to craft of any kind and secondly,
;

because the motor boat had been set on fire. Fortu-

nately at the time of the accident she was moored to
the pier with plenty of help close at hand, so that
by throwing in dozens of bucketsful of dry earth the
flames were finally smothered. It looked at one time
as if nothing could save her, as the entire fore end was
wrapped in flames, and the petrol tank burst, sending
clouds of smoke and flame liigh into the air. Beyond
this, however, little damage was done, and the hull
was hardly scorched, mainly owing to the sodden state
of her timbers. Her two months' immersion in the
river was of some value after all. Two days' hard
work and slie was again ready for use.
The boat being once more in order and the weather
improving, I left on 3rd March, taking in tow the yawl
in case it might be necessary to effect a landing on the
coast.
Fromthe JMimika mouth we turned sharp to the
east, and in three hours had arrived off a promising
opening believed to be the Atoeka River, and one of
the supposed mouths of the Tuaba and Wataikwa.
The entrance was perfect, and even with the eighteen-
foot pole which we carried, as being of more practical
use than the lead, no bar could be found at the mouth.
Inside was a bay, narrower than that of the Mimika
estuary but considerably deeper, the vegetation along
the banks being of the same description. The Mimika
is broad and shallow, and even within the upper
reaches of the tidal zone is blocked with timber at
low water. The Atoeka, on the other hand, is deeper,
swifter, and entirely free from artificial obstruction.
Higher up than three or four miles from the mouth,
however, no boat drawing more than five feet of water
330
 A CORDIAI. WELCOME
can proceed when the tide is low, unless there has
been recent heavy rainfall in the hills. From the
coldness of the water and the amount of gritty sedi-
ment carried down, it is evident that the source of the
river is to be found in the mountains, and not, as in the
case of the Mimika, in the low-lying jungle swamps.
So numerous were the bends and loops that unless
one knew the lie of the land it would be impossil^le
to tell in what direction the advance was being made.
So it continued, till early in the afternoon we came
upon a boatload of unsuspecting Papuans paddhng
slowly up-stream. For a moment panic prevailed,
then one of the occupants of the canoes recognising
who we were, sent up such a shout of welcome that
it was heard in a village some distance away. In a
few minutes we reached the flanking huts of the great
straggling village of Atoeka, from whence women and
children were already pouring out, an excited and
noisy crowd. A wild race took place as to who should
be the first to offer a welcome, the older women rolling
in the mud and slime as is customary, smearing them-
selves from head to foot with filth and then dancing
with the usual extravagant postures, keeping it up
without intermission while the goods were being
landed from the launch.
Hundreds of men had by this time appeared upon
the river bank, some of whom busied themselves
in clearing the ground of rubbish, whilst the great
majority so impeded the work of unloading the launch,
that at length a railing had to be hastily erected and
the men forced behind the barrier. The pressure still

increasing, I announced my intention of inspecting the

village. This not only drew away the majority of the
spectators, but put them all in high good humour, for
331
 DANCING HALLS
the people in this district are never so happy as
when showing you their village, and in particular
their own family abode. The village being of great
extent, and as far as one could see every hut being
occupied, my escort of willing guides could not have
numbered less than a couple of hundred men. Each
thought it his duty to be in the front rank, and as
the dogs and pigs of the village collected there also,
the whole formed a parade the like of which I have
never seen before.
The village of Atoeka is situated on the right bank
of the river just below a great bend. The huts stretch
along the water's edge in one unbroken line for close
on 1500 yards, except where two great dancing halls
rise fifteen to twenty feet above the other buildings.
Twenty yards of roadway lie between the huts and
the river, the bank of which is fringed with cocoa-nut
palms. The day being fine the scene was pleasing and
picturesque, for the village, in addition to being the
largest and cleanest we had yet visited, had a pleasant
background of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees, with
tobacco plantations beyond.
The effect of the tide is felt right up to the village
of Atoeka, and although at this date the banks of the
river looked dry enough, I have no doubt that during
the rains the whole country is under water for days at
a time.
I inspected the dancing halls, the floors of which,
built on piles ten feet above the ground, in each case
covered an area of about seventy by twenty-five feet.
They were carpeted with broad strips of bark, and on
to the wall, were built six or eight fireplaces
this, close
of sand brought from the seashore. Round the walls
a kind of dado had been fixed, about three feet from
332
 A RETURN VISIT
the floor, consisting of a plank of wood, on which were
carved representations of the human eye at intervals
of abouttwo feet. In the centre of the hall, between
two posts, was fixed another short plank covered with
more carved eyes. From what we could gather the
w^hole idea of the dance based on these carvings the
is ;

performers, who are generally women, advancing and

retiring with the usual shuffling gait, and when they
have approached sufficiently close poke at the eyes
with their fingers, accompanying the action with a
loud shout. Throughout the performance singing and
tom-toming is carried on without intermission. We
never had an opportunity of witnessing one of these
ceremonial dances, as they invariably take place at
night and there is an unwritten law that at night
Papuans and Europeans shall each keep to their own
camps. The meaning of these antics and the reason
why the eye is considered the principal organ of the
body and is always represented in carvings, we were
unable to determine. It is the same with the deco-
rated house utensils, paddles, and weapons, the eye is
the only human organ depicted.
When four hundred huts had been inspected, the
inhabitants thought it would be only showing proper
politeness on their part to pay the same compliment to
our tents and goods. Fortunately complete good
temper was shown, or we should certainly have been
swept into the river, and our tents with us. The
pressure at length became so great that force had to be
used to keep back the crowd, and in this we were
assisted by a few of the more officious Papuans, who no
doubt had an eye to some future reward despite their
;

effiarts, however, no food could be prepared until dusk

fell and the crowd dispersed to their homes.

333
 KEEN TRADERS
These people were the keenest traders we had yet
encountered, and as I had purchased a few stone axes
during my walk round the village, the camp on the
following morning was hesieged by a mob of at least a
hundred would-be sellers, each with his pile of goods
and each noisily demonstrating the merits of his par-
ticular article of commerce. Before me were laid
dozens of stone axes and clubs, spears, bows and arrows,
fish, cocoa-nuts, fresh-water oysters, and rolls of string.

Did my eyes wander for one instant over any article, it

was at once taken up and its good points enumerated
and displayed. Many quite useless things were bought,
simply because the owners were so pitiably anxious to
possess a knife, a strip of cloth, or a few beads. There
was no bargaining, tliey gladly took whatever I offered,
and raced away to find something else to dispose of.
When the time came to depart they did their best
to persuade us to stop longer, and even became quite
sidky when they saw that their efforts were in vain
they then changed their tactics and implored us to camp
amongst them again on our return down the river.
Although there was some little difficulty in starting
her, the motor-boat must have greatly impressed these
people as she passed swiftly and without visible effort
from end to end of the village crowds raced after us
;

along the banks, tumbling over one another in their

efforts to keep up, until we slipped round the bend and
out of sight.
After proceeding for an hour between thickly wooded
lands varied by patches of tobacco plantations, we un-
expectedly entered the Kamura proper, which here
bifurcates, forming the Atoeka and Kamura mouths.
Even then, after a week's drought, it was a splendid
sheet of water ; in the wet season, and in fact for most
334
 THE KAMURA
months of the year, it is navigable for large launehes
as far up as the village of I bo. As we swept out of the
Atoeka into the broad expanse, Jangbir the Gurkha's
first question was, why had we not taken to this river

in the first place, then surely we should have reached

the snows ? Ah why not
?! For two very good reasons,
my friend ;
—because the very existence of this
firstly,

river was unknown to us and secondly, because there

;

was no launch available in which we might have ex-

amined the coast to find another waterway than the
Mimika.
The bed Kamura, which is between two and
of the
three hundred yards wide, was exceptionally free from
obstacles. Straight ahead to the north the whole range
of mountains was visible, the foothills veiled in a blue
haze, and the black frowning precipice stretching from
east to west, topped by the snow caps of Idenburg and
Carstensz with their icy pinnacles glittering in the rays
of the sun. Much as we enjoyed the journey our minds
were never for a moment free from vain regrets that we
had been unable to prospect this river on our first arrival.
How insignificant appeared the dirty jungle-fed and
fever- stricken Mimika, when compared with the wide
stretching expanse of cold clear water of the Kamura.
On the greater river, wdth its open jungle and gravelly
banks of sand, there can be no question that our work
would have proceeded unhindered by a great portion of
the sickness and fever with which we had had to contend.
Regrets and speculation as to what might have been
done were, however, a mere waste of time we had not
;

taken the river, and there tlie matter ended.

I had intended to camp at the point where the
Wataikwa is joined by the Kamura, the junction already
visited three months previously by Cramer when coming
335
 A COLLISION
from tlie north. was to join up the compass
INTy object
survey of the river, and so close that portion of the map.
Our good intentions, however, were unexpectedly frus-
trated, for when within a couple of miles of our destina-
tion we crashed full upon a sunken log.
So violent and
unexpected was the impact that everyone was thrown
to the deck, the engines came to a dead stop, and the
timbers of the poor old boat groaned as if in mortal
agony. The Gurkha, Bahadur, who was look-out man
at the time, and whose particular business it was to see
that we did not collide with obstacles, was pitched
headlong into the river, and before he could be seized
was swept past the boat and down the river into deep
water. Being an indifferent swimmer he would certainly
have lost his life had not his companion Jangbir plunged
in and, after a struggle in which I thought both
would have been drowned, dragged him to another
half- sunken log from whence both were finally rescued
by the yawl.
In spite of every effort nothing would induce the
engines to start afresh, though it was impossible to
detect any obvious damage. After two hours of
strenuous work a halt had to be called and the camp
pitched in the neighbouring forest. It was not until
after darkness had set in that the welcome pop-pop of
the engine showed that she had once more awakened to
life. As it was more than likely that the engine would
give further trouble, the journey to the junction was
given up, and next morning we started on our return
voyage, this time following the eastern or Kamura
branch of the river.
At full speed we passed between banks exactly
similar to those of the western branch, the Atoeka,
whilst both rivers were alike in the number of sharp
336
 KAMURA \ ILLAGE
turns and doublings of their course. So we went along,
the work of rapidly taking the angles with the prismatic
compass and judging the distance by eye keeping me
fully occupied, for it is by no means an easy task to take

the necessary observations when one is moving at the

rate of eight or ten miles an hour down a river con-
tinually doubling on itself. It must have been some
hours after the start that we came suddenly upon a large
village which we afterwards learnt went by the name of
Kamura. The boat was quickly swung round, and the
anchor dropped in mid-stream.
The surprise and excitement caused by our sudden
approach from above was intense. One warning cry and
the whole population was fleeing to the bush, then, realis-
ing who we were, they turned, the women entering their
huts to bring out bamboos filled with chalk, which they
cast in clouds into the air, the men placing bunches of
leaves in their armlets as evidence of their peaceful inten-
tions. These preliminaries accomplished, the whole body
rushed with one accord into the river to meet us, com-
mencing the usual dancing inseparable from a greeting
in these parts, but which on this occasion was all the
more curious owing to the fact that the majority of the
women were in a complete state of nudity.
They were a wild -looking crew, of a much lower
type than any we had previously encountered. The vil-
lage was of the universal pattern, with about 200 huts,
but there was a complete absence of bordering cocoa-
nut or bread-fruit trees, nor was there any other sign of
cultivation. Whilst the old men prevented the women
from approacliing too close to the boats, the younger
ones tried their best to clamber on board, a privilege
not allowed, as we neither liked their looks nor their
manners, and they had therefore to be content, much to
337 Y
 A WILD-LOOKING CREW
their disappointment, with standing waist-deep in the
water. In this position conversation was carried on
with difficulty, as they made such a babel of noise that
no definite remarks could be exchanged on either side.
I gave them a few fish-hooks and beads, thinking that
this might encourage them to bring some fruit if they
had any, the only result being to create more excitement
and to draw a still greater number of men into the river.
They were of a lower type and of a more brutal counte-
nance than any we had met before, and almost to a man
were nude. They seemed to know little about us and
our ways, so we soon weighed anchor, and bade them
adieu.
Hardly had the engines started than four boat-loads
of men at once set off in pursuit, but as the current
carried us along at a fine pace they and the village were
soon left behind. For two miles there was nothing to
impede our progress. Round sharp bends we swept, the
river often doubling upon itself and flowing between
banks of a dense scrub-like jungle, making record time,
till the engines again broke down and further tinkering

was required.
Whilst we were busied in this task the four canoes
which had followed us from Kamura village suddenly
appeared upon the scene, and without more ado drew
up alongside the yawl. Without recognising our exist-
ence, or with so much as a word, two men stepped out
and began to remove the box of trade goods from which
the hooks and beads had been taken, and which also
contained several knives and a few axes. It was already
half on to the man's shoulder when Bahadur (the
Gurkhas are always quick to make up their minds), with
a shout of rage which was enough to daunt the stoutest
heart, drove the muzzle of the gun into the thief's ribs.
338
;^ E~i
 AN ERRATIC MOTOR
Down the box clattered into the bottom of the boat
had it been red-hot it could not have been dropped
quicker, and the now vociferous savages hastily with-
drew a stone's-throw away new turn
to discuss the
affairs had taken. A plan of action wassoon concocted,
and they divided forces, half vanishing into the jungle
and moving down-stream, whilst the others watched us
from above. Threats to open fire upon them had no
effect, and it was evident that they had little idea of
the power of a gun.
Whilst this was going on strenuous efforts were
being made to persuade the motor-engine to start afresh.
Ten minutes of violent turning of the fly-wheel left her
as lifeless as before, and then suddenly, without anything
more being done, she suddenly started into life again.
It was particularly lucky for the Papuans that this
did occur, as though we had no wish to use our
weapons unless absolutely compelled to do so, blood
would certainly have been shed had they advanced
a second time. As, however, the launch was now run-
ning well, we could afford to laugh at their disappointed
looks as the boat set off at full speed down the river.
On glancing back they were seen to be still in the same
place, we hope satisfied at length that we could escape
them when we chose. What became of the jungle
party we never knew at any rate no further trouble
;

was experienced, as this was the last time we were to

come in contact with this avaricious and deofraded tribe.
AVithin an hour we had entered a glorious bay, five
or six miles in length and one or two in width. Islands
both large and small rose on either side from the still
surface of the water, the channels between having a
depth of eighteen feet or more. The bay as shown in
the map is not quite as accurately defined as one could
339
 A GLORIOUS BAY
wish, owing to the loss of the prismatic compass,
which slipped from my hands into the river as we were
leaving the mouth of the Kamura.
What an exquisite picture the bay presented, and one
appreciated all the more on account of the scarcity of
beautiful scenery in these parts, and the impossibility of
obtaining an extensive view when in the enclosed and
monotonous forest. Here lay islands and headlands,
dark and sombre, but standing out distinct from one
another as the sun caught the edges of their shores,
their varied forms rising from the glassy pale-green
waters of the lagoon, whose dark and sinuous creeks
stretched into the jungle in all directions. Then to the
south the blue ocean and the cloudless sky to the north
;

masses of cumulus cloud rising into the blue vault of

heaven, with the purple line of the foothills of the
central range lying below. Altogether a pleasant,
peaceful scene.
We camped upon the sands just within the mouth
of the bay, upon the site of an old fishing village and
beneath a cluster of palms. From here the mouth of
the elusive Wania River could be distinguished in the
far north-eastern corner of the bay, but much as we
longed to explore its waters, nothing could be accom-
pHshed with the motor engine working so erratically as
ithad been doing of late.
There was again an enforced halt of several hours
at this place, the boat this time being left stranded on
the fall of the tide. Our united efforts to push and
heave her into deep water only resulted in our being
covered from head to foot with a black and evil-smeUing
slime which, though exceedingly objectionable to us,
proved to be the happy hunting-ground of innumerable
fish. Shoals of gorgeous-coloured specimens collected
340
 GORGEOUS-COLOURED FISH
n the shade of the boat, possibly mistaking it for a
floating tree-trunk from which grubs and other kinds
of food might be procured. Greedily they sucked up
the grains of rice thrown overboard, and even sipped
the floating petrol without any apparent distaste. Every
imaginable colour and shape seemed to have here a
—
representative round fish and square fish, fish as flat as
a piece of paper and as long and thin as pencils, spiky
fish and smooth fish give them all a hundred vivid hues
;

and brilliant spots, stripes and blotches, and some idea

of the sight may be obtained.
When once afloat we made for the Mimika at our
best speed and, except for a few involuntary stops,
arrived at Wakatimi without further mishap.
During the previous fortnight the weather had been
perfect, very different from that experienced in the
corresponding season in 1910, when rain fell in torrents
daily. Both were exceptional, for in the
years, I fancy,
former year much forest land upon which great trees
had been growing for centuries was carried away by
the flood, and in the middle of March 1911 the jungle
was showing visible signs of being parched from want
of rain.

341
 CHAPTER XXIV
Wania Bay —An unexpected bar— Our unfortunate motor boat — A lost
propeller—A position — Salving the launch — A humorous com-
critical
parison — The last voyage — A welcome sight — An unexpected rein-
forcement

ALL that now remained to be done in order to

.l\. complete the map of the district was the explora-
tion of the Wania River. I had already made four
attempts, but from one cause or another had on each
occasion been prevented from carrying out the work.
This time I was determined to finish the matter, and
as a breakdown of the motor boat seemed to be the
only thing which could possibly occur to prevent our
success, her engines were thoroughly overhauled and
the smallest defects rectified. Everything promised
well, and in the second week of March, WoUaston,
Marshall, and together with seven men, packed the
1,

yawl with rations for a week, tied her astern, and

started off in high spirits down the Mimika.
Wemade good time to the mouth, passed the bar
in safety, and with the aid of a strong current; within
three hours were off the mouth of the Wania Bay.
To my intense surprise, a bar of sand stretched from
shore to shore across the very channel where I had
passed a week before, and where we had been unable
to find bottom with the eighteen-foot pole. Strong
south-westerly winds had been blowing since then, but
it seemed almost incredible that in such a short time
the coast line could have become so changed and the
342
 AN UNEXPECTED BAR
deep entrance to the harbour completely closed by a
bar of sand rising at least two feet above the surface
of the water. It was only another example of how
little dependence can be placed in harbours and en-
trances along this portion of the coast as havens of
refuge.
Had the Kamura and Wania rivers been in flood,
or had the rainfall been up to the average, this closing
of the mouth could never have happened, as the volume
of water descending from the mountains is in ordinary
times sufficient to sweep away any obstruction.
There was still another possible way of entering the
river, namely by the eastern mouth, three miles farther
along the coast. Here again we were checkmated, as
the wild surf breaking on the bar clearly showed that
there was no possibility of forcing a passage for many
hours to come and until the tide was full. As the
weather was becoming rapidly worse and a lengthy
wait in this position was out of the question, we decided
to return and take shelter for the night in the mouth
of the Mimika. By so doing one day^vould be lost,
but as there were ample provisions in the boats one
day more or less made little difference. On heading
to the west it was at once noticed how much the w4nd
and sea had risen, which made us all the more anxious
to get quickly to a harbour of refuge and in a position
safe from any storm. The engines, upon which we
could never place much reliance, were on this occasion
working perfectly, and there was every reason to believe
that within three hours we should be safely berthed for
the night. Progress was slow, but the voyage was full
of joy for those of us who loved the sea, and whatever
the conditions might be it was better to be afloat than
on dry land —so we at that time thought.
843
 A LOST PROPELLER
When opposite to and about a couple of miles
off the mouth of the Atoeka, the band connect-
ing the magneto with the fly-wheel of the engine
slipped off, but as this was an almost hourly occurrence
no special attention was paid to it, and nothing much
was thought of the fact that the engines immediately
began to race at an abnormal speed. These latter were
slowed down, the strap replaced, and we composed
ourselves again to enjoy the exhilarating sensation of
being tossed about during the remainder of the journey.
The engines were now running smoothly enough, but
to our horror the boat made not an inch of progress.
Instinctively we guessed what had happened. A
quick
glance, first at the revolving shaft and then over the
stern of the boat, made it clear at once that the worst
—
of all possible disasters had overtaken us the propeller
had worked loose from the shaft and had sunk to the
bottom of the sea. Without a jar or a blow, without
apparent cause or reason, the holding pin and nut had
given way, and with them had gone the screw. When
the launch was employed on convoy work on the river
the screw had come in contact with sunken logs on so
many occasions that, as a result, the propeller blades
had been bent almost double, but being of good metal
they had stood the re-straightening well the present
;

accident, however, showed that more serious damage

had been done to the shaft than had been imagined,
and that the threads of the screw must have been torn
almost smooth.
we were now
Tiie position in was anything but
pleasant. The two boats, one a crippled and leaky
motor launch and the other a ship's yawl, containing
ten men and a heavy load of stores, equipment and
baggage, lay two miles off the land on an exposed
344
 A CRITICAL POSITION
shore, and twelve miles from the nearest known refuge.
Besides this, we were surrounded by foam-covered reefs,
in the teeth of a rising storm, and in a sea full of
sharks.
The yawl's pair of oars were quickly got out and she
was put on to tow the launch, but so strong was the
current that instead of making headway we steadily
lost ground. The anchor therefore was dropped, and
the yawl once more tied up in her old place astern. We
had now no choice but to remain where we were and
ride out the storm, trusting that the anchor would not
drag, that we should escape being swamped, and — most
likely thing of all — that the yawl's rope, which had
already snapped once that day, would hold throughout
the night. Were it to break again there would be little
chance of any of the crew reaching land alive.
Throughout the afternoon the wind increased in
violence, and when night fell we were in a most critical
position to partly compensate for this most of the crew
;

were so ill that they cared little whether the boat floated
or went to the bottom. Fortunately we were spared
complete darkness, for the moon was at its full, but by
her light we had distressing visions of the yawl being
tossed hither and thither, and straining with horrid jerks
at the rope which restrained her. She was, however,
somewhat under the lee of the motor boat, and in
that position partly sheltered from the full force of
the waves. How the two boats tossed and rolled,
twisted and turned ! In spite of the strain the anchor
held fast, and except for shipping a few bucketsful of
water we remained dry, which was something to be
thankful for. At midnight, when affairs seemed to be
reaching a climax, and there was but a hair's-breadth
between our sinking or swimming, the wind ceased to
345
 SHALLOW SEAS
increase in violence, remained steady for half an hour,
and then, to our intense relief, commenced to drop,
and so continued till daybreak.
In these shallow seas, for though we were fully two
miles from land there were not over two fathoms of
water under the keel, the sea falls as rapidly as it gets
up, and before the sun was well above the horizon had
dropped almost sufficiently to allow the yawl to set out
for the shore. As the force of the current was as strong
as ever, any attempt to tow the motor boat was hope-
less. It was therefore decided to abandon her for the
present, and if she did not sink in the meantime to salve
her later on. The goods were slowly and with difficulty
transhipped to the yawl, and when she was loaded with
the ten men in addition, there remained but little free-
board above the level of the water.
The village of Nime lay only six miles away, and
though we at first set out in the direction of this place,
the waves broke so continuously over the boat and
there was such evident danger of our being swamped,
that a course was soon shaped for the nearer but treach-
erous bay of Timoura, in the hope that some opening
might be found through the foam- covered reef which
closed its mouth. Fortune was again kind, and almost
before we knew we were clear, a narrow channel opened
before us and we had grounded upon a mudbank, tired
out, soaked to the skin, but thankful enough to reach
even such an inhospitable shore. The tide falling rapidly,
we were compelled to remain here till midnight, when
with the return of the water the boat floated once more,
and an hour later shelter was obtained among the trees
on the mainland.
There was no time to waste if the leaky launch
was to be saved, so disembarking the stores as quickly
346
 A HUMOROUS COMPARISON
as possible, we once more set forth and reached the
launch at daybreak, to find her full of water but still
floating taking her in tow she was grounded on the
;

shore at midday. Here she became so firmly wedged

that another night had to be spent waist-deep in the
water working to refloat her, only to find when once
we had succeeded that, although she would still keep
above water, her old timbers had opened so much that
she was little better than a sieve.
Savages from the villages to the east and Nime to
the west had appeared at intervals, keen as ever on the
chance of doing a bit of trade, but as soon as we
suggested that they might lend a hand and do a bit
of work they at once made themselves scarce. At
length a dozen strangers from the east were engaged
to paddle the launch to Nime, and so well did these
born watermen work that, with the aid of their long
native paddles, they made the old boat travel nearly
as fast as the yawl. There was a certain amount of
humour in the sight of the modern motor boat, one of
the latest products of civilisation, being propelled by
primitive paddles wielded by men who belonged to the
stone age.
That night we rested at Nime. With the exception
of half a dozen men and boys, the one thousand to
twelve hundred people formerly living here had dis-
appeared on one of the peculiar and temporary migra-
tions which these people seem so fond of undertaking.
Why they should all have moved at once, unless it was
that they had got tired of a place and wanted a change,
I cannot tell. Fish were just as plentiful at Nime as
before, and the sago swamps just as fruitful, but there
must without doubt have been something more attractive
inland or they would never have left their huts and
347
 THE LAST VOYAGE
splendid dancing halls for so long to the mercy of the
storms.
Two days later we were in the Mimika Bay, and
the unfortunate journey was over five hours had been
;

taken on the outward and five days on the return

voyage, and the Wania had defeated us at the last.
Tliough we much regretted that the survey of this fine
river was and had to remain incomplete, it was no good
crying over spilt milk. We were safely out of an
awkward predicament, and that without any loss of
life, which was something to be thankful for.

This last day of the journey was a glorious one. I

can picture the scene now, with the sea like glass and
the sky free of cloud, and the two boats being paddled
slowly forward by rows of garrulous and happy savages.
We were not prepared to do any manual labour our-
selves now that hired hands were available, and if the
truth were told, we were unfit for it. The past fifteen
months had left its mark on the survivors, and had
brought them to a weaker state than was altogether
pleasant.
We were a contented party nevertheless, and were
really thankful that this was to be the last voyage of
the expedition. As we lay back in the boat, filling our
lungs with the fresh sea air, and wondering how long
it would be before we should leave the land for good,

a roving eye was attracted by the smallest possible

spiral of cloud on the horizon. First one saw it and
then another, until at length everyone, black and white,
began to speculate as to what it meant. Not for a
moment would the Papuans allow that it was the fore-
runner of a ship, and the wish being father to the
thought, the Europeans and Gurkhas were just as firmly
convinced that it was. Then it drifted and vanished,
348
 A WELCOME SIGHT
and we had to accept the scoffs and superior smiles of
the dusky savages with what equanimity we could not ;

for long, however, for in a few minutes another small

cloud formed in the same place, and our spirits and
conviction rose with a hound. Argument waxed and
waned, until within an hour all doubt had vanished.

Above the horizon crept the black spot of a funnel,

then the hull of a steamer appeared, slowly growing
larger and more distinct, until we could make out the
line of the Zivaan as she came to a stop two miles out
at sea, and the roar of her chains as she anchored came
like music to our ears.
Three months previously we had applied to the
Dutch authorities in Java to request that transport
might be despatched to the Mimika River to withdraw
the expedition as soon after the 1st of April as was
convenient. As it was now only the third week in
March, the point we were eager to find out was whether
the Zwaan was making one of her periodical visits to
remove the sick, or whether she had arrived before the
time appointed on the chance of our being ready to
move.
Speculation was but a waste of time we should—
know soon enough and as the prospect of being towed
;

up the river to the base camp was preferable to a long

and wearying struggle against the current, M^e lay to
under the mangrove trees, chatting on the pleasant
times to come, and watching through our glasses the
preparations now being made to lower and take in tow
the ship's boats.
One, two, three — six boats in addition to the launch.
Hurrah ! then we were
to be removed at once, and our
journey to civilised lands was as good as begun. As
they drew clear of the Zivaan a horrid doubt crept into
349
 AN UNEXPECTED REINFORCEMENT
our minds, for the boats seemed to be uncommonly
heavily laden, and the nearer they approached the more
peculiar became their appearance. Dozens of khaki-
clad men, different in appearance to the like of anything
seen before sat in silent rows, with red fezzes on their
heads and in a spick and span uniform.
What were these people doing here why had they
;

come, and who were they ? I hailed the launch, and on

going on board, full of curiosity, was introduced to Mr.
Boden-Kloss of the Kuala Lumpur Museum. From
him I learnt, for the first time, that he, together with
thirty-eight Dyaks from Sarawak, and stores for six
months, had been despatched by order of the Home
Committee to join the expedition. This was the last
thing in the world we had expected, and in our then
condition the least welcome, for we had received no
intimation of this reinforcement, and no news that such
an event was contemplated. These Dyaks, the only
men at all suitable for transport work in New Guinea,
for whom we had been begging from the very start of
the expedition were, without warning, sent out to join
us fifteen months after our first landing, three months
after we had sent our application to be withdrawn, and
many months after the date originally determined for
the closing of the expedition. Moreover, they had
arrived just when the wettest and impossible season for
travel was commencing, when all collections which we
had contemplated making in the district had been com-
pleted and the specimens actually packed, and when
the whole force was prepared for immediate departure.
Parimau had been abandoned to the natives, and the
camps allowed to fall into disrepair.
To postpone our departure for a further term of
months would be profitless waste of time. This fact
350
 LIMIT OF TIME FOR SERVICE
alone, that the principal members of the expedition had
been in the country for a year and a quarter, was
the withdrawal of the
sufficient, in itself, to necessitate
force. Eight months is the maximum
period allowed
by the Dutch authorities for continuous service on
these expeditions in New Guinea, as this has been
found by experience to be the utmost limit of time
a man can stand the climate without serious injury to
his health.
Our own past experiences had taught us that, for
the vast majority of men imported from the East
Indian Islands, a period of four months spent in con-
tinuous work is as much as can be counted on in
a climate such as is to be found in the south-western
districts of the island. Cramer, AVollaston, INIarshall,
and myself, four Gurkhas and three of the escort were
the sole remaining members })oth of the original ex-
pedition landed fifteen months before and the four
hundred imported during the first year. We were
the only men whose stay had exceeded eight months'
duration.
The recruiting and despatch of this force of Dyaks
was one of the most unfortunate episodes of the expedi-
tion, and is only one more example of how hopeless it
is to try to manage an expedition from a distant base,

instead of leaving things to be arranged by men who,

being on the spot, are the best judges of what measures
should be taken to ensure success. Had the Dyaks
been enlisted six or nine months earlier, when the
unsuitability of the ordinary Malay for heavy work in
New Guinea had been amply proved, their services
would have been invaluable, although, even then, the
men were too few in number to have enabled us to
move any considerable distance into the mountains.
351
 WAITING FOR THE TRANSPORTS
To landthem without warning at Wakatimi during
the weeks of the expedition was inexcusable.
final
Mr. Kloss, grievous as the disappointment must have
been, as soon as he had seen the camp and realised
how matters stood, was entirely in accord with our
views as to the necessity for immediate withdrawal
in the morning he returned to the Zwaan, taking with
him his own men and every sick soldier or coolie for
whom accommodation could be found.
We watched them depart with mixed feelings our
;

disappointment that we were not of the party was

mitigated by the knowledge that our turn would soon
come, for they would carry the news to Amboina of
our anxiety to leave. Still more boxes were packed
and stored ready for removal, and the finishing touches
having been given to this work, we sat down to wait,
with what patience we could, for the coming of the
transports.

352
 CHAPTER XXV
Completed work — Results of the expedition — Disappointed hopes — Belief
— Anticipating trouble — Scenes of turmoil —Civilising influence
ships
Dobo — Dispersal of the expedition — Dutch hospitality

those pleasant quiet evenings spent by the river,

IN enjoying the good things behind by Kloss, our
left
minds from the worries of transport and from the
free
difficultiesof surmounting the ever recurring natural
obstructions, we had plenty of time to review the
labours of the past year, to balance the pros and eons,
to weigh the successes against the failures, and to
question whether the collections might have been still
further enriched or the survey extended.
The expedition was over and the work complete.
All that man
could do to form the collections and com-
plete the survey had been done, and we were entitled
to rest from our labours. AVith the one exception of
the snows not having been reached, every other object
for which we had set out had been attained, and although
the time expended and the loss of life entailed had been
in excess of what had been anticipated, yet the obstacles
encountered had been greater than what we had been
led to expect and for which provision had been made.
On the whole we had little to reproach ourselves with,
and much with which to be content.
Close at hand for the museums were packed 2200
skins of birds comprising 235 species, many of Avhich
were new to science six cases of mammal skins many
; ;

tanks and bottles of reptiles entomological specimens

; ;

353 z
 RESULTS OF THE EXPEDITION
quantities of ethnographical objects of great interest
and value, and, what appealed to IVIarshall and myself
still more, a map of 3000 square miles of a hitherto

unknown land, complete in every detail, from the

highest peaks of newly-discovered mountains to the
sluggish rivers of the plains. Amongst other discoveries
of geographical interest must not be forgotten the snow
mountains of Idenburg, the castellated peaks of Leonard
Darwin, and the greatest precipice in the world. In
addition, new races of man had been encountered and
studied, tribes hitherto unknown and still living in the
stone age. But of more human interest than all these
was the discovery of the Tapiro pygmies, a really re-
markable find at this period of the world's history, and
sufficient in itself to have warranted the despatch of
the expedition.
In the attempt to reach the snows of Carstensz we
had accomplished the longest cross-country journey
ever attempted in Dutch New Guinea. Against these
gains had to be placed the one failure to reach the
snows. We could, however, console ourselves with the
thought that few expeditions, and least of all those on
pioneer journeys, succeed in attaining the full summit
of their desires, and in our case we had the knowledge
that, with the Mimika River as a line of communica-
tion, this particular featwas impossible. At the con-
clusion we had much to be thankful for, since at one
period the outlook had been so dark and the prospects
of an advance into the mountains so hopeless, that the
withdrawal and reorganisation of the expedition had
been seriously discussed. The number of lives sacri-
ficed in obtaining these results had been large, but not
much more so than is usual in expeditions of this kind
and undertaken in a country approaching the un-
354
 DISAPPOINTED HOPES
healthiness of New Guinea. Accidents and disease
had taken a heavy toll, but
No game was ever yet worth a rap
For a rational man to play,
Into which no accident, no mishap
Gjuld possibly find its way.

We had gained much valuable experience which will

be useful to others. As I write Wollaston has set forth
again with a most perfectly equipped expedition, taking
a new and greater river as his line of advance, and
there can be little doubt, provided nounforeseen disaster
overtakes him, that his ambition to reach Carstensz by
this route will this time be realised.
Day followed day with monotonous regularity.
From early dawn on to eleven o'clock our minds were
full of pleasurable anticipation that the final day had
arrived. From that hour to two o'clock our ears were
strained to catch the sound of a launch's whistle as she
entered the straight before the camp and then, as the
;

minutes passed by and there was no si^n, our hopes

would steadily dwindle till dusk came and the last
chance had vanished for the day. With our nerves
strung to the highest pitch of expectancy, it was inevit-
able that false alarms and reports should find currency
in the camp on several occasions these were generally
;

caused by the warning cries of the Papuans, who under-

stood quite well what we were expecting, and were
likewise infected with the spirit of anticipation ; or it

might be by the sound of a falling tree in the forest,

the breaking stems being taken over and over again for
the reports of signal guns fired by an arriving ship. So
realistic were some of the latter that on one occasion
the Dutch, after hurriedly changing into their best
clothes, manned the yawl and pulled to the mouth of
355
 ANTICIPATING TROUBLE
the river, returning weary and depressed long after mid-
night with the news that their quest had been in vain.
Everything, however, comes to him who waits, and
on 5th April such a shout went up from the village
opposite as to leave no possible doubt that the relief
ships were off the coast at last. Our old friend the
Zwaan had arrived, closely followed by the gunboat
3Iataram, with orders that no time was to be lost in
removing the expedition to Amboina.
Not since our first landing in the country had the
camp so throbbed with animation; and though it was
fully recognised that two whole days would be required
to remove the men and stores, yet so intense was the
anxiety to be off, and so great the fear that the ships
might depart and leave the laggards to spend the
remainder of their lives on these inhospitable shores,
that the coolies could scarcely be dissuaded from placing
their boxes on the pier and sitting upon them through-
out the dark hours of the night.
During the two following days the work of trans-
portation was carried on apace, every movement being
eagerly watched by hundreds of wild-looking Papuans
who had been drawn to the camp from neighbouring
and distant villages by the prospect of obtaining a share
of the stores, which they knew would be abandoned on
our departure. To judge by the number of weapons
carried, trouble over the division of the spoil was antici-
pated; and as each village in the district was represented,
it is more than likely that many fights subsequently took

place. No traces of pleasure or of sorrow were visible

whereby an inkling might be gained as to their real
feelings concerning our coming departure out of their
midst. Their expressions and looks were a compound
of suspicion and greed, suspicion that we might
yet be tempted to change our hitherto exemplary be-
356
 SCENES OF TURMOIL
haviour and work them some harm (for they never could
fathom the reason of our stay), and greed engendered
by the sight of the accumulated heaps of rubbish which
they knew we would leave behind.
On 7th April 1 left by the last trip but one made by
the launch, and by so doing missed the scene whicli took
place when the last party stood on the pier and the camp
was given over to the tender mercy of the Papuans.
In one moment the savage throng had burst through
the palings surrounding the buildings, and proved them-
selves to be as wild and quarrelsome now as they had
been when we first came amongst them. AVhilst men
and women fought with one another in the mad lust for
upon and carry off what they most coveted,
loot, to seize
and whilst the armed and the defenceless struggled to-
gether to be the first to enter the huts, the last members
of the expedition stepped into the boats and passed
quietly down-stream, to the accompaniment of angry
cries reverberatingthrough the camp, unnoticed by those
amongst whom they had lived so long the bend of the
;

river and the gathering dusk quickly liid from view

both the village of AVakatimi and the camp upon which
so much care and labour had been spent. A\'ild shrieks
had greeted us on our first arrival in the country, and
wild shrieks echoed down the still reaches of the river
as the boats crept towards the sea. It is easy to imagine
the scenes of riotous turmoil which that night swept
over the village of Wakatimi and on the other side
of the river, and to picture the ghostly forms of the
savages as, full of greed and covetousness, they wandered
with flickering torches through the deserted huts seek-
ing for what might have been overlooked in the wild
rush of the evening.
Around the Mataram and the Zrcaaii the waters
were quiet and deserted the canoes, which had been
;

357
 CIVILISING INFLUENCE
lying off all day, had vanished silently and mysteriously
as darkness fell, their crews possibly little realising that
they would see us no more. Will any of the living
generation of Mimika Papuans ever see a white man
again ? It is most unlikely and all that their descend-
;

ants will have to remind them of the strange race,

who so unexpectedly came into their midst, will be the
stories of our visit recorded in songs chorused round the
hut-fires in the evenings, or the history attached to the
axes, scraps of metal, beads, and precious odds and ends
handed down from father to son as family heirlooms.
I am firmly convinced that our contact with the
Parimau and up-river people must have had a good and
civilising influence upon them. They certainly saw
enough of us to learn some of the advantages of peace
and industry, to learn what it meant to be able to trust
the words of others, and to realise that honesty paid
better than deceit. As a by-remark, it is worth noting
that when these people were in danger of losing their
most precious goods they actually brought their things
over to our side of the river, leaving them near our huts
without any protection whatever, knowing that under
our care their possessions were safe. As to the results
of our attempts to introduce a measure of civilisation
amongst the coast tribes I am less sanguine, but at
any rate we can feel certain that we did them no harm,
and may have done good. At the very least, their hard
lives have been temporarily made less laborious owing
to the great influx of axes and tools, and this alone
may make them aspire to a slightly higher plane of
civilisation. Our departure from either place was quite
enough to show the different degrees in which our influ-
ence had been felt, for the Parimau people, however
shallow in reality may have been their sorrow, had had
sufficient feeling to lavish demonstrative grief upon the
358
 DISPERSAL OF THE EXPEDITION
Europeans and Gurkhas when the final greetings took
place. With the Wakatimi people the reverse was the
case.

Dobo, the and only important village in

principal
the Aru Islands, was reached on the following afternoon,
and the dilapidated motor boat and much of the surplus
stores handed over to the hospitable members of the
Celebes Trading Company. The boat was soon sold to
one of the many eager buyers, but though one year has
passed since then, I understand that they are still look-
ing for a purchaser, or anyone who will even remove
the cases of pea-flour supplied for the use of the expedi-
tion when on
the Equator !

On 10th April we entered the exquisite bay of the

island of Banda, the richest of the spice islands, and in
the olden days the jewel of the East, for the possession
of which innumerable wars have been waged in bygone
times. Now all its artificial glory has departed ; the
splendid palaces of the merchants are in decay or ruin,
whilst in the port stagnation reigns in place of the
former busy activity.
At Amboina the dispersal of the expedition began,
the Javanese troops moving to their respective stations,
and the coolies to their homes in the neighbouring
islands. We had hoped that Cramer would have
accompanied us to .Java, but the early symptoms of
beri-beri had set in he being, therefore, the first, but
;

by no means the last of the survivors to fall ill owing

to the after-results of an over-strenuous journey.
From a military point of view, no better officer could
have been selected to command the escort, and from
the expeditionary standpoint one could not have wished
for a more tactful comrade. Those who have travelled
under conditions of hardship in the more desolate
countries of the earth will understand the many high
359
 DISPERSAL OF THE EXPEDITION
qualities which must be possessed, even by one's closest
friends, in order that affairs may progress in harmony
and goodwill how much more so must be the case
;

when one's companions are those of another nationality.

Throughout the journey from Java to New Guinea,
and from New Guinea back again to Amboina, we
were the guests of the Dutch Government, whose
generosity and hospitality so materially helped to start
the expedition and bring it to a successful conclusion.
It impossible for individuals adequately to mark their
is

appreciation of the spontaneous and friendly act of a

foreign government, and we can but remember that such
courtesies do much to increase the natural friendly rela-
tions and good feeling of the nations concerned.
The few remaining Gurkhas left us at Singapore,
and before long reached their mountain homes in
the Himalayas, preceded by their excellent Havildar,
Mehesur Singh, rich in this world's goods, and with
the knowledge that they had maintained the good
name of their race, and that their work had materially
contributed to enrich the collections and make possible
the advance into the mountains.
The remaining members of the expedition received
every possible assistance from the Board and repre-
sentatives of the P. & O. Company, ever generous
where scientific research is concerned, and reached
England on 25th JMay, twenty months after having left
her shores. There we separated, Wollaston to prepare
for fresh travels and Marshall to take a temporary rest
after his two climatically opposed journeys —
one in the
coldest area of the world's surface, and the other under
the Equator.
May success attend them both !

360
Map of New Guinea for " In the Land of the New Guinea Pygmies."
 /

INDEX
Bows and arrows, 272
Bridge over the Iwaka, 309, 325
Aboriginal, the primitive, 71, 112 British Ornithologists' Union, 25, 28
;
Aeta, the, 207, 277 the committee, 27, 291, 350
Age, rapid advance of, 133 Brush Turkey, 289
Aiika River, the, 317 Burial customs, 133, 136, 224 among ;

Albinos, 55, 189 the pygmies, 275

Alligators, 294 Buton Island, 280
Amboina, 35, 58, 103; coolies fro to,
154, 359
Andamanese, the, 269, 277
Animals. Sec mammals and birds Cannibalism, 71, 73
Anopheles mosquito, the, 89, 134, 229 Canoe convoys, 86
Arifura Sea, the, 322 Canoeing, difficulties of, 104, 237;
Arrival at the coast, 41 dexterous, 144
Arrows, pygmy, 259 Canoes, construction of, 77 ; purchase
Arts and crafts of the pygmies, 274 of, 79 ; Dreadiwiii/ht, the, 171 ; loss
Aru Islands, the, 155 of, 239
Atabo, disease at, 133 ; idol at, 138, Carriers, 30, 34, 36 ; strange conduct
171,281, 286 of, 197, 213 nervous, 249
;

Atoeka River, the, 188 ; survey of, 330 ;

Carstensz, Janz, 21
village of, 332 Carstensz, Mount, 25, 35, 38, 40, 84,
Axes, pygmy, 120 ; value of, 155, 328, 220, 318, 321-323, 354
334, 358 Carteret, Captain, 21 I
Cassowaries, hunting, 124, 125
B Casuarina trees, 40, 201, 212
Central Range, 21, 241. See Nassau
Bali Island, 36 Range
Banana plantations, 65, 104 Chalmers, Rev. James, 22, 73
Banda Island, 357 Characteristics, 71 ; of the pygmies,
Barter, exchange, 70, 79 ; with the 252
pygmies, 119 Charles Louis Mountains, 40, 243, 317
Beer, 52, 61 Children, treatment of, 62, 131, 286
Beri-bcri, 231, 232, 234, 359 Chinese, influence of the, 133
Birds— the Hornbill, 87, 106 Crown ;
jar, a, 189
pigeons, 87, 106 ; Cassowaries, 124, Cicatrisation, 60
125 pets, 125 the Bower-bird, 149
; ; ;
Cinematograph, a, 221
Pittars, 150 ; Birds of Paradise, 150,
151, 216, 246 pigeons, 2.s9
;
Brush ;
Civilisation, effect of, 58
Clearings, pygmy, 256
I
Turkey, 289; Honeyeaters, 151; Climate, 38, 49," 81, 85, 127, 190-195,
Fly-catchers, 151 Flower-peckers,
; 252, 313
151 ; Sun-birds, 151 ; Kingfishers, Cloth, the value of, 156
87 Clothing, 57, 59,207,228
Birth, 131 Clubs, 178, 334
Blue-bottles, a plague of, 199 Coal, 303, 320
Boden Kloss, Mr., 350, 352, 353 Coast line, the, 39, 317, 330
Bower-bird, the, 149 tribes, the, 53, 181, 331-335

361
 INDEX
Cock's Comb Mountain, 320 E
Coffins, 136, 224
Collectors, 29 East Indies, division of, 19
Communal building, a, 49 Edwards, 21
Concerts at Atabo, 281 Electric torch, effects of an, 140
Convict carriers, 34 Englehart and the simple life, 207
Cook, Captain, 21 Ethnological discoveries, 354
Coolies, 36, 82 selecting coolie trans-
; Explorers of New Guinea
port, 83, 152; fever amongst, 153, Dutch, 20, 21, 23
203, 291 ; miserable, 316 English, 21
Copper, 303 Spanish and Portuguese, 19, 20
Courage of the natives, 139 Eye, representations of the, 333
Crabs, armies of, 286
Cramer, Lieut. H. A., 33, 45, 81, 104,
163, 170, 244, 297, 301, 359 F
Creepers and parasites, 98
Crown pigeons, 106 False alarm, a, 284
Curiosity of the natives, 183 Fauna of Mimika River, 87 ; of the
Cuscus, the, 125 Wataikwa, 204
Customs, 131, 238 Festival, a pig, 160
Fighting at Parimau, 96
Fights, village, 157
D Fire-drill, the, 273
Dalrymple. 20 Fire-making, 272
Dampier, William, 21 Fire-plough, the, 273
Dances, native, 48 Fire-saw, the, 273
Dancing hall, at Parimau, 123 ;
at Fire-sticks of the pygmies, 111
Atabo, 281 at Atoeka, 332
; Fire-strap, the, 273
D'Albertis, 22 Fish, 340
Darwin, Leonard, Mt., 318, 354 Fish-hooks, native made, 288
D'Entrecasteau, 21 Fishing, native method of, 288
D'Urville, Colonel, 22 Fishing-nets of spider's web, 289
De Meneses, Jorge, 19 Flies, New Guinea, 199
De Retes, Ortis, 20 Floods, 128, 143, 175, 191, 206, 222,
De Saavedra, Alvdro, 20 239, 300
De Torres, Louis Vaiz, 20 Flora of Mimika River, 86
Dead, disposal of the, 75, 224 ; among Flower-peckers, 151
the pygmies, 275 Fly-catchers, 151
Death customs, 133, 135 Fly River, the, 22
of Mr. Stalker, and others, 82 Food supplies, 31, 211
Decorative arts of the pygmies, 274 Forest growth, density of, 98, 99, 219
Desertions, strange, of the Papuans, Free trade, English rights of, 21
101 Fruits and vegetables, 66
Diet, native, 49, 63, 239 Funeral of a Natu, the, 224
Disasters on coast of New Guinea, 22 Future life, belief in, 139
Discoveries, 354
Diseases, 133 malaria, 134
;

Dishonoured notes, 167, 232 G

Dobo, 37, 170, 191 pearl-fishers, 232,
;

359 Game in New Guinea, 64, 88

Dogs, native, 124 of the pygmies, 255
; Games and sports, 287
Drawings, native, 185 Geographical discoveries, 319, 354
Dress of the pygmies. 111, 255 God, belief in, 138
Drink and its effects, 61 Godman, Mount, 298, 318
Dutch co-operation, 35 Gong, an old brass, 104
Government, kindness of the, 360 Goodfellow, Walter, 28, 35, 45, 84, 103,
in New Guinea, 21, 22 170, 190, 200, 215, 217, 234
section, the, 29 Grant, Mr. C. H., 226, 243, 246, 247,
Dyak recruits, 350 298, 299, 325

362
 INDEX
Grass helmets of the pygmies, 111 E
Greater Bird of Paradise, 151, 21G
Greeting, a Papuan, 43, 93 Kaiqua River, the, 174, 179; Kaiqua
Grey mullet, 285 village, 180
Grub-bearing palm, the, 64 Kamura River, the, 145, 201, 334;
Gurkhas, engagement of, 30, 33, 76, village of, 337
232, 360 Kapare River, the, 99, 104, 105, 114,
121, 188, 243, 322
H Kei islanders, 189
Kerosene oil, 303, 320
Habits and manners, 181 oil tins, value of, 155
Hair of the pygmies, 252 Ketchang Idjoe, the, 232
Hairdressing, native, 55 King Bird of Paradise, the, 150
Halley's comet, 193 Knives, value of, 155
Harpoon, the, 288 Kokonau, 284
Harrison, Dr. H. S., 265 Kolff, 22
Hayes, Captain, 21
Headman of Nime, 182 ; of Wambirimi,
262 Land cultivation, 63
Herker Jit,310 Landing, preliminary negotiations, 43
Highway robbery at Parimau, 163 Language, 76; diMculties, 112, 116,
Himalayan suspension bridges, 311 129
Honey-eaters, 151 of signs, 76
Hornbill, the, 106 Launch, European necessity of, 79
toughness of, 87, 106 Leeches, 90, 210, 229
Horse-shoe, an unlucky, 236 Le Maine, 21
Hospitality at Ibo, 146; at Nime, 177 Leonard Darwin, Mount, 318, 354
House-moving, 148 Lombok Island, 36
Houses, native, 49 our houses at
; Looking-glass, the effect of a, 154
Wakatimi, 170 Loquacity of the native, 187
Hurricane, a, 329 Lorentsz, Dr., 27, 303, 323
Huts at Parimau, 122; on piles, 175;
pygmy, 255
M
MacCluer, Lieutenant, 21
Ibo, the track to, 142; village, 145, 196, Macgregor, 22
198, 295 Mackellar, Mr. C. D., 235
Idenburg Mountains, 227, 321 Maclay, 22 *
Idols, 138 Magnificent Bird of Paradise, 151
Iguanas, 87 Malaria, 134, 200, 229
Indolence, native, 67 Malays, 30
Insect pests, 90 Mamberano expedition, the, 231
Instruments, surveying, 220 Mammals, 89, 125, 149
Iron ore, 303 Mangrove swamp, 175
Island River expedition, 321 Manucodes, 151
Iwaka River, Birds of Paradise on the, Marriage, 131
151, 212, 217, 244, 302 Marshall, Dr. E.. 29, 104, 121, 134, 142,
152, 167, 196, 200, 217, 230, 281, 295,
304
Marsupials, 149
Matardvi, the, 356
Jangbir, the plucky Gurkha, 309, 336 Mate Dell, 21
Jansz, Captain Willem, 20 Measurements of jjygmies, 115, 258
Japanese, stature of the, 265 Medicine, native ignorance of, 134
Java, 35 appreciation of, 229
Javanese coolies, 34, 154 Mehesur Sing, 360
Jungle, a New Guinea, 204 Merauke, 2S0
path, 116 Migration, a, 340, 347
363
 INDEX
Milne Bay, 20 ; tribes in, 73 New Guinea, discovery of, 19, 20
Mimika district, disembarkation in, christening of, 20
30, 38 inliabited portion of, 53
; British section of, 20
cannibalism, 74; customs, 131 Spanish and Portuguese in, 19,
Mimika River, 22 first journey up tiie, ; 20
45, 47 natives' welcome, 48 in flood,
; , Dutch in, 21, 23
78 navigation of, 85 flora and fauna
; ; travellers in, 20-22
of, 86-89 an eastvrard path, 127
; ;
Germans in, 23
a flood, 128, 191 ; idol in, 138 British possessions in, 23
Mimika Papuan not an expert thief, difiiculties of exploration, 24
166; motor launch on the, 194, 201, — — general aspect of, 38
206, 292 climate, 38
Monogamy among the pygmies, 275 first impressions, 40
Morality, 58 arrival at the coast, 41
Moresby, Admiral, 22 Game in, 64 ; fruits and vege-
Morning on the Mimika River, 92 tables, 66 ; fauna and flora, 86
Mortality amongst the Pajjuans, 230 ;
New world, discovery of, 18
amongst the expedition, 354 IVias, the, 40, 41 ; boarded by savages,
Mosquito nets, 233 44, 82, 182
Mosquitoes, 89, 138, 199, 228 Nim6, idol at, 138 village of, 173;
;

Motor launch, 190, 194, 235, 291, 3;il), trade 177 natives, 181, 346
at, ;

336 Nord River, the, 303, 323

Mountain home, pygmies', 117, 118 North coast, 22
Mountains, Charles Louis, 40 Car- ; Novelty and amusement, 186
stensz, 40, 102 Snowy Range, 40 ; ; Numerals, 255
to the north, 202, 205, 312
Murder in camp, a double, 295 O
Museum, specimens for the, 353
Music, native, 281 Obota, village of, 65, 104, 188; river,
Musical instruments of the pygmies, 191, 206
274 "Oewera-mina," 130
320
Oil, 303,
N Ornamentation, personal, 57, 59
pygmy, 254
Nassau Range, the, 220, 227, 243, 319
Nata and the snake, 140
Natives, hostility of, 22, reception of
Europeans, 42 ; Vjoarding the Nias, Paddling and poling, 153, 237
44 ; curiosity, 52, 183 coast tribes, ; Pain, the native's endurance of, 140
53 ; up-river natives, 53 ; pygmies, Papal Bull, a, 19
53 plainsmen, 53 hair-dressing, 55 ;
; ; Papua, 19, 20, 23
morality, 58 ; clothing, 58 ; orna- Paradisea Apoda, 217 n.
mentation, 57, 59 ; effect of drink, Parimau, 95, 121 ; huts at, 122 cus- ;

61 ; children, 62 ; women, 63 diet, ; toms at, 132 snakes at, 139 rob-
; ;

49, 63, 239; indolence of, 67; bery at, 162; natives, 169, 181, 185,
desire to trade, 70 primitive char- ;
199 flood at, 222, 237, 239
;

acteristics, 71 cannibalism, 71, 73 ; ;

Periepia River, the, 105
recuperative powers of the, 135 Pets of our followers, 125
courage, 139 aversion from work, ;
Photography, 220
152 strange conduct of, 147, 197
; ; Pictures and photographs, 184
types, 181 draughtsmanship, 185
; Pigeons, 289
loquacity, 187; gratitude, 230; Pigs at Parimau, 123, 159
numerals, 255 Pile-dwellings, 272
Native beaten l)y his wife, a, 61 Pioneers in the Americas, 18
Natu, the, 174, 224 Pittars, 150
Navigation of Mimika River, 85 Plainsmen, 53
Necklaces of the pygmies, 254 Plant cultivation among the pygmies,
Negritos and Negrillos, 267, 277 272
Net-bags of the pygmies, 253 Plum-pudding, our, 326
364
 INDEX
Portlock, 21 Shortridge, G. C, 28, 106 and the ;

Portuguese in New Guinea, 19, 20 eastward path, 126 and the rats,
;

Postama, Lieutenant, 320 149, 185, 190, 226, 243, 280

Precipice, the great, 102, 242, 318 Sick, care of the, 135
Prison in Dobo, a, 37 Simian origin of the pygmies, 271
Privacy, lack of, 183 Simple life in New Guinea, the, 207
Propeller, loss of our, 844 Singing by the men, 281
Prospecting party, the first, 80 Sixteenth century, life in, 17, 18
Provisions, stocking the, 30 Six-wired Bird of Paradise, 151
Pubic covering, 59 of pygmies, 111 ;
Skin colour of the pygmies, 268
Pulman, 118 Skulls, a market in, 137
Puria River, the, 19G, 206 Slate, 303, 320
Pygmies, 27, 53 a chase, 108 origin,
; ; Snakes, 91. 139, 210
113; another capture, 114 measure- ; Snow Mountains, the. See Carstensz
ments, 115; a mountain home, 117, Soil, fertility of the, 66, 98
118, 242, 249 hair, 252
; dress, 253 ; ;
South-east coast, British annexation of,
ornaments, 254 weapons, 255 huts,
; ; 22
255; women, 257; measurements, Spaniards in New Guinea, 19, 20
258, 264 ; and plainsmen, 260 a ; Spice Islands, the, 19, 20
headman, 262 physical character-
;
Spiders' webs as fishing-net, 289
istics, 266 origin, 269 use of stone,
; ; Staff,the European, 29
274; arts and crafts, 274 ornamenta- ; Stalker, W., 28, 36; death of, 80,
tion, 274 ;musical instruments, 274 ;
226
tribal organisation, 275 ; monogamy, Stature of the Tapiro pygmies, 266
275 women, 275, 328
; Stealing amongst the Papuans, 166
Python, a fine, 91, 216 Steam - launch for transport work,
169
Stone clubs, 178 implements, 273
;

R Stores, our, 106, 226

String bags of the pygmies, 111
Rains, heavy, 75, 105, 200; in the Sugar palm-trees, 52, 61
Mimika district, 218, 294 Sun-birds, 151
Rats, 149, 193, 248 Supplies of food, 31, 211
Rattan cuirasses, 255 Supply and demand, the natives' con-
Reeves, survey instrument, 220 ception of, 228^
Religion, 138 Survey Staif, the, 27
Renaissance, the, 17, 18 Surveying, difliculties of, 216 ; instru-
Rifle bird, the, 210 ments, 220 in the mountains, 317
;
;
Rites and ceremonies, 131 the east coast, 330
Robbery on the river, 163 Swampy land, 171
Rock formation of the Iwaka vallev,
303, 320
Rothmeyer, Commander, 190
Route chosen, the, 36 T
Route to the north, a, 75
Royal Geographical Society, 29, 220 Tapiro Peak, 219, 246, 322
Tapiro pygmies, 53, 110, 112, 130
Tarok(5, 281
S Tasman, Abel Janez, 21
Tattooing, 59, 69, 145
Sago swamps, 104 Tea, 187
Salt as a trading medium, 156, 186 Tears in welcome, shedding of, 94 n.
Savages of the interior, 182 Teeth, filing of the, 74
Schouten, 21 Teysmann, 22
Secret societies and customs, 138 Timoura, bay of, 346
Semang, the, 267, 277 Timoura River, the, 180
Shackleton, Sir E., 29 Tin, 303
Shark-fishing, 68 Tobacco, 104 pygmy, 260
;

Shipwreck story, a, 72 Tools, 67

365
 INDEX
Torres Straits, discovery of the, 20 ; W
English possession of, 21
Tourapaya, village of, 170; flood at, Wailing as a welcome, 138
192 Wakatimi, 48, 61, 103, 121 hospital ;

Trade articles, 154 at Nirao, 177

; at, 153; natives, 169; camp, 170;
Trail, forming a, 98 flood at, 191 illness at, 235
;

Transport arrangements, 30 ; difficul- Wallace, 22

ties of, 169 Wambirimi, 247
Trees, giant, 98 ;difficulties of felling, Wania Village, 165 River, 235, 340,342
;

120, 227 Wataikwa River, the, 196 ; course of,

Tribal marks, 145 203fauna and flora of, 204, 206,
;

Tribal organisation of the pygmies, 217, 244, 300 source of, 306
;

275 Water sport amongst the natives, 287

Tropical jungle, density of the, 227 Watuka River, the, 47, 84, 149, 293
Tuaba River, the, 14H village, 147,
; Welcome of Europeans, native, 47
200, 206, 241, 300 Mountain, 520
; Welcome by women, an extraordinary,
Types of natives, 181 93
Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise, 151 Whisky, effects of, on a native, 187
Widows, dress worn by, 59; "weeds,"
136
Wilhelmina Peak, 822, 323
U Wives, treatment of, 96, 132, 169
Wollaston, A. F. R., 28, 97, 104, 117,
Union Jack, the, 43 121, 152, 167, 200, 230, 280, 291, 301,
Up-river tribes, 53, 95, 181 321, 355
Utakwa River, the, 34, 280, 320 Women, position of, 63 ; extraordinary
welcome by, 93 ; in Parimau, 95 ; in
Ibo, 146 ; as carriers, 148 ; pygmy,
257, 275 ; dancers, 282

Valk, the, 291

Van der Bie, Lieutenant, 320
Van Herwerdeu, 42
Yule, Lieutenant, 22
Vegetation, luxuriant, 122 along the
;

Atoeka River, 188 ontheWataikwa,

;

204, 209, 304, 314

Village brawls, 96, 157
Villages, 36 Wakatimi, 48, 49
;

Vocabulary, compiling a, 76 Zoological collecting, 286, 288

Von Daalen, General, 33 Zwaan, the, 190, 349, 356

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