How to get the perfect smile (without the smile lines)

“A smile cures the wounding of a frown” wrote Shakespeare. And he’s right. They are mainly caused by a natural drop in collagen and elastin, though genetics and sun exposure also play a role. In my practice I don’t try to eradicate them, I focus on softening their appearance: while smile lines might irritate you, they are at least associated with a life well lived. 

Injectables are the inevitable quick-fix solution. I wouldn’t advise botox, which paralyses the muscles; instead I’d opt for dermal fillers, which “fill” the wrinkle space by pushing out the expression line by projecting the skin upwards. I recommend the deft hand of Dr Suha Kersh at 23MD clinic (from £750).

While smile lines might irritate you, they are at least associated with a life well lived

When it comes to thermal devices, I’m very cautious. Why “melt” facial fat to tighten the face? In my experience, NeoGen PRS or Plasma Skin Regeneration can be less painful than other heat-energy devices. NeoGen converts nitrogen gas into plasma energy, which penetrates both the superficial and deeper levels of the dermis, causing controlled “damage” that triggers new collagen and elastin growth. Result? Skin tightening and firming. Offered at clinics including Ouronyx, this handheld device delivers energy right up to the edge of – and on to – the lips. Priced from £2,000 for three low-energy or one high-energy treatment, I advise to start with low energy and build up. It’s also worth noting that in-clinic treatments often use local anaesthetic – for which there is some downtime.

All smiles

Noble Panacea Nourishing Lift Oil, £325 for 30 doses

Slip silk pillowcase, £89

Kiehl’s Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate, £65 for 50ml

SiO Beauty Eye & Smile Lift, £30 for a pair

iS Clinical Retinol+ Emulsion 0.3, £115 for 30g

At-home devices can also be effective. I’d recommend using a microcurrent machine twice a week. The 7E MyoLift Triwave Microcurrent Facial Device is a portable double-tipped facial-toning device with three programs. Facial muscles are toned to build strength and restore shape.

Sleeping on your front aggravates smile lines, so swap your cotton pillow for one by Slip made of mulberry silk. Less friction reduces stretching and tugging the delicate facial skin.

Dehydration also deepens smile lines. A face oil, such as Noble Panacea Nourishing Lift Oil improves microcirculation (even more so if you apply it using the Sculptor Gua Sha tool) and nourishes the skin. The formula contains water-soluble hyaluronic acid, an industry first, meaning you get water-based hydration and oil-based moisturisation in one. 

For sun protection and a daily dose of anti-oxidative repair, try Kiehl’s Powerful Strength Line Reducing Concentrate. Its 12.5 per cent vitamin C concentration is not too high to cause irritation and not too low to be ineffective, while hyaluronic acid adds hydration.

The new wave of reusable medical-grade silicone patches, such as SiO Beauty Eye & Smile Lift, are great for giving wrinkles and smile lines a plumper, smoother, younger appearance in just a few hours. Gently compress on the skin to flatten wrinkles, seal in moisture and hydrate – and, if possible, apply at night. The patches can be rinsed and reused. 

Finally, my best advice is to use retinol to both prevent and treat smile lines. The vitamin A derivative regenerates cells to fire up collagen production and improve elasticity. Start with iS Clinical Retinol+ Emulsion 0.3 a couple of times per week (for the first few weeks) before building up to three times a week. You need to build tolerance for full power line-erasing results.