Car Audio Noise Troubleshooting

One of the most frustrating aspects of car audio is noise in the system. Unlike home audio
systems, car audio systems have many sources of noise to deal with. Here's a few of the
most common noises found in car stereo and how to fix or avoid them.

Alternator Whine
Alternator whine is the granddaddy of car stereo noise. The most common and the most
annoying. Alternator whine will be heard as a high pitched whine that will rise and fall
with the engine speed. Most of the time this is caused by a poorly chosen ground for a
piece of equipment. It is usually cured by grounding the equipment directly to bare metal
on the chassis rather than an available factory ground bolt as is often used to save time.
You'll also need to make sure your charging system is in top condition and that your
connections between the battery and components are secure as well as the integrity of the
factory ground strap, an often overlooked component. You might also consider switching
your RCA cables to a twisted pair model. Twisted pair cables will usually be less prone to
noise than their coaxial counterparts.

Accessory Pop
Accessory pop is associated with one particular electrical event in the vehicle. This can
be switching on your turn signal, headlights, brakes, windshield wipers or even the rear
window defrost. These high current drawing accessories are causing a voltage spike that
is traveling into your car audio equipment with the result being heard as a sharp pop.
Adding a small bi-polar capacitor (0.47 uF) between the accessory's power wire and
ground will often absorb these surges. You may need to place the capacitor on the load or
the power side of the switch (maybe both). See the diagram below to see how this is
done. Note that the diagram is slightly different if the accessory has a relay in the circuit.

Accessory Pop Absorption Circuit

Body Rattle
I'm sure everyone has heard a car booming down the street with the body panels shaking
and rattling with every bass note. This is an extreme case of body rattle. Less noticeable
examples are interior panels that are worn and may slap together when a bump is hit.
Door noise is less common and is usually more of a problem on the less expensive cars.
Large and luxury cars are usually built with thicker metal and more sound absorption
materials and are less prone to body rattle. Body rattle can be solved as easily as
tightening the bolts and screws that hold the panels together or may require a full array of
noise dampeners.

In Pursuit of a Noise-Free System: The

Ten Commandments of Noise
Prevention
For the past six weeks you've worked relentlessly on the competition sound system in
your vehicle. Your checking account is bone dry, and to top it off, your girlfriend is about
to leave you for want of attention. In the past 72 hours you've redefined the word
sacrifice. Lack of sleep has forced you into another dimension; a dimension where sight
and sound take on new meaning. It's 6 A.M. and judging begins in just two hours. Final
connections are made, equalization and crossover points are set, and a good balance of
front stage - rear fill has been achieved. You reach for the keys and turn the ignition. As
the engine purrs to life, a high pitched whine assaults the ears. NOISE!

Does this remind you of a nightmare you had one night after consuming a bottle of cheap
wine and a pepperoni pizza? Nightmare or not, the above story is a true one that cost me
first place and a five thousand dollar purse. From that day on I've sort of had a personal
vendetta against noise.

For those of you who are wondering what noise is, I like to define it as any sound
reproduced by the loudspeakers that is not present in the source material. Alternator
whine, amp swizzle, ignition noise, turn on thump, and system noise are just a few
examples that come to mind. In the following paragraphs I will outline each of these
noises and the symptoms associated with them as well as some possible causes and
remedies. Before we begin, however, let's review the TEN COMMANDMENTS of noise
free installation.

The Ten Commandments

I. The best cure is prevention. I can't overemphasize this point. If you've ever spent an
entire weekend tearing an installation apart in order to eliminate some noise, you know
what I mean. Take the time to sketch the system out before you begin the install. This
graphic representation of the installation will help you to avoid introducing ground loops
and will serve as a road map for eliminating noise if it is present.

II. Don't introduce ground loops. Ground loops are created whenever an audio ground
is established at more than one location. Theoretically, the only place the audio ground
should be connected to the chassis ground is at the source unit. In my experience, I've
found that in systems that have noise problems, a ground loop is the culprit nine times out
of ten.

III. Never run signal wires alongside power cables. This is especially true in
installations where high powered amplifiers are used. Large amplifiers are capable of
drawing large currents. These currents vary with the musical demand of the program
material as does the electromagnetic field surrounding the power cable. The more current
that flows through the wire, the bigger this field becomes. If audio cables are located in
close proximity to this fluctuating electromagnetic field, noise could be induced into the
system.

IV. Always use 100% shielded audio cable. This will insure maximum protection
against induced noises by power cables and other sources of electromagnetic interference.
Good audio cables are not cheap. If you prefer to make your own cables, I would
recommend using a wire with a foil shield surrounded by a drain wire.

V. Never use the ground wire in the vehicle's OEM radio harness. This wire usually
makes a very poor ground due to it's length, small wire gauge, close proximity to other
power wires, and unknown termination point. Instead, ground the source unit directly to
the chassis or firewall.

VI. Make sure the amplifiers have a good audio ground reference. In order for the
amps to function properly, the audio ground must be referenced to chassis ground at the
source unit. If it is not, the amplifier could oscillate. To check for a good ground
reference, take a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and measure the resistance between the chassis
of the radio and the shield of the RCA line level outputs of the radio. This reading should
indicate a direct short. If this is not the case, grounding the shield of the RCA line level
outputs to the chassis of the radio will probably be necessary.

VII. Keep amplifier power ground wires as short as possible. The longer a wire, the
more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is
produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no
longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can
lead to noise and improper operation of the amp.

VIII. Don't connect all of your amplifier ground wires under one bolt. Contrary to
belief, this is not required if the rest of the system is installed properly. If you do connect
more than one power ground wire under a single bolt, you run the risk of amplifier
ground modulation. This is caused by the current demands of, for example a woofer amp,
modulating the power ground wire of a tweeter amp. This results in a squeaking noise
that can be heard over the tweeters whenever bass notes hit.

IX. Make sure all levels are set correctly. Level setting is a critical part of the
installation process. If done properly, maximum system signal to noise ratio can be
obtained. Keep in mind that you want to drive the audio cables that feed the amps in the
rear of the car as hard as possible. To do this, reduce the gain of the amplifiers to
minimum. Turn up the volume on the source unit to 80% of maximum. Now adjust the
input sensitivity of the amplifiers upward until the maximum intended loudness is
obtained.

X. Noise filters can only reduce noise, not eliminate it. A noise filter is just that, a filter.
And like any other filter (crossover network, etc.), it works by modification, not
elimination. Some installers rely on filters heavily. In some instances a filter may prove
necessary, but I believe that if the system is installed properly, a filter is usually not
required.

About now most of you are probably making strange faces and saying "Now you tell
me!" Well, all is not lost. If you have already installed your auto sound system and are
unfortunate enough to have some noise, here are a few suggestions on where to look and
what to do.

Alternator Whine

To me, alternator whine is the most annoying form of noise. For those of you who are
lucky enough never to have been exposed to alternator whine, it sounds like a miniature
siren that rises in pitch with the speed of the engine. Alternator whine is almost always
caused by a ground loop. The following steps will aid you in locating and correcting a
ground loop problem.

1. Verify that all levels are set properly. (Click here for related article.)
2. With the system turned off, unplug the RCA inputs to the amplifier.
3. Start the vehicle and turn the system on. If the noise is gone go to step 8. If the
noise is still present, it is coming from the amp or the speaker wiring. Continue.
4. Turn the system off and disconnect the speaker harness.
5. Start the engine and verify that no noise is present. In a few rare instances, I have
actually heard speakers reproduce noise without being connected to an amplifier.
This noise was being induced by power cables that were very close to the speaker
wire. If you do have this type of noise, reroute the appropriate speaker lead and go
to step 3.
6. With the speaker harness still disconnected, check to make sure there are no
shorts between the speaker leads and the chassis of the vehicle. A shorted negative
speaker lead will create a ground loop by establishing a second audio ground
reference point. If you do have a short, trace the wire out and repair it then go to
step 3.
 7. With the RCA inputs and speaker harness still disconnected from the amplifier,
use your VOM to measure from the shield of the RCA jacks on the amp to the
chassis of the vehicle. This reading should not be a direct short (100 ohms or
more is acceptable.) If this reading does indicate a direct short, you might have a
defective amp and should contact the manufacturer for verification. (Note that
there are a few "inexpensive" amps or boosters on the market that have their audio
ground and electrical ground commoned internally. For units of this type, the
information in this article will be of very little value.)
8. If you've made it here, you know that the amplifier and speaker wiring are okay.
9. Connect the accessories in front of the amp (crossovers, equalizers, etc.) one at a
time and check for alternator whine. When each device is tested, there should be
nothing plugged into the input of that device. In this way, we will work toward the
source unit piece by piece. Be sure to turn the system power off before connecting
or disconnecting any cables or accessories.
10. Repeat step 9 until all accessories have been tested.
11. If a particular accessory is causing noise, try disconnecting it's power ground
wire. Go to step 9.
12. Now it's time to connect the source unit. Do that now and test for noise.
13. If noise is present, try unplugging the antenna. If the noise goes away, you will
need to use an antenna isolator. This little gismo opens the shield wire of the coax
to eliminate the ground loop caused by the ground at the antenna.
14. If you still have noise, try connecting the source unit's ground wire in another
location,. preferably as close to the source unit as possible.
15. Does the noise vary in amplitude when you adjust the volume control? If it does,
the problem is probably power line related and not a ground loop. If this is the
case, run the source unit's B+ (yellow) wire directly to the positive terminal of the
battery. If this doesn't do the trick, you will probably have to use a power line
filter on the source unit's B+ (Yel) and Ignition (Red) wires.

Ignition Noise

Ignition noise is another type of noise that is quite annoying. It usually sounds like a
popping or buzzing sound whenever the engine is running. The best cure is to remove the
motor but since we can't do that, we will have to rely on some other form of remedy.
Follow the steps below to eliminate or reduce ignition noise.

1. Make sure you are using resistor type spark plugs and resistor type plug wires.
2. Determine where the noise is coming from. If the noise is a popping sound that
occurs 2 or 3 times a second, you probably have a loose or bad plug wire. First,
make sure that all plug wires are seated properly. If this doesn't do the trick, you
may have a bad plug wire. Usually this occurs due to a pinhole in the insulation of
the wire. Whenever the plug wire is energized, an arc jumps through the pinhole
to the chassis of the vehicle. Replace with silicone resistor plug wires.
3. If the noise is a buzzing sound, the problem is usually associated with the points,
distributor, or coil. Try replacing the condenser on both the coil and points. Make
sure all plug wires are seated properly in the distributor cap. Additionally, you
 might try adding a 2200 uF cap from the positive terminal on the coil to chassis
ground.
4. Don't use the fuse block in the vehicle to derive power for the source unit. Run the
Constant Hot B+ (memory) wire directly to the battery's positive terminal.
5. If you still have noise, it could be occurring because of induction. Try pulling the
source unit out of the dash and check for noise. If the noise is eliminated, try
rerouting any wiring harnesses that are close to the deck. If this is not possible, try
using self adhesive metal shielding. This might just do the trick.

Turn On/Off Thump

Turn on thump can vary from a slight pop to a mind shattering, teeth rattling BOOM!
This thump is caused by the audio circuitry stabilizing when power is applied. Most
amplifiers and source units have muting circuitry that lasts a couple of seconds to allow
these fluctuations to subside before passing a signal. However, if the amplifier un-mutes
before the source unit or any other accessory, you better watch out. Here are some things
to try if you have turn on thump.

1. Verify that the amp has a good audio ground reference. (See rule 6 of the Ten
Commandments of noise free installation.)
2. Don't install the system so the amplifiers can be switched on when the source unit
is turned off.
3. If you still have thump, add a turn on delay module in line with the remote turn on
wire to the amp.
4. This concludes the section on turn on thump.

System Hiss

Hiss is usually most noticeable over the midrange and tweeters. The reasons for this are
simple. The human ear is more sensitive to the frequencies reproduced by these drivers.
Mids and tweets are usually far more efficient than their low frequency counterparts.
And, these drivers are usually mounted closer to the listener. If you have hiss, you
probably have your levels set improperly. See rule 9 of the Ten Commandments of noise
free installation.

While I know that I haven't covered all the forms of noise or even all of the methods of
dealing with it, I hope that I've made a good start. By adhering to the Ten
Commandments and investing a little persistence, you will be rewarded with a noise free
installation.
Noise and your New Receiver

Noise in your receiver is often due to

a poor ground wire connection.

You've installed a new receiver in your car, and now you've got a noise problem. What
can you do? It boils down to this — you made a change that has introduced noise into
your system. So, the first thing to do is check out all facets of your installation.

1. Is your receiver securely grounded?

Is the ground wire located near a noise source (like a heater, air conditioner, or
computer)? Is the ground wire actually connected to the vehicle's ground? Since
the antenna lead can act as a ground (thereby enabling a new receiver to operate
without its ground wire properly connected), the antenna lead is frequently the
source of noise problems.
2. Check to see if you're getting noise on all sources — CD (or cassette), AM, and
FM
If the noise is present only on the radio, then it's coming through your antenna
lead.

If you've checked out all potential causes for the noise problem, you may be able to cure
(or at least minimize) the noise with a filter. There are three types of noise that can enter
your system, and you can find filters that help with each type.

Backway Noise

This is noise introduced through the power and ground wires connected to your receiver.
If you're hearing alternator whine (a whirring noise that varies with engine RPMs), you
can install an alternator noise filter on the power line between the battery and the
alternator to minimize the problem. You can also install a noise filter (American
International's S15A (15-amp, 250-watt) or S25A (25-amp, 350-watt) filters, for example)
on the receiver's power lead to cut down on signal pollution.
An alternator noise suppressor connects inline between the
alternator and battery, and can reduce high-pitched whining noise
that modulates according to engine RPMs.

Frontway Noise

This is noise coming from a source within the receiver — either the radio or cassette
section (noise from a CD transport is very rare). If you determine that the noise originates
with your radio antenna, an antenna filter (like American International's AS100) plugs in
between the antenna and your receiver to stop (or minimize) noise from entering your
system. Insert a blank cassette and turn up the receiver. If you hear noise, try rerouting
the wiring coming from the rear of your receiver to prevent radiated noise from reaching
the tape head.

An antenna filter, installed between the vehicle's antenna and

the receiver, can minimize noise entering your system from a
poorly grounded antenna.

Sideway Noise

This is noise induced by the new receiver's proximity to a noise producer (like a heater
motor or car computer). If the noise-causing accessory has a motor, a source noise filter
can be installed on the accessory's power lead to minimize radiated noise. If the car
computer (or other motor-less accessory) is causing the problem, move your receiver's
wiring away from that accessory to minimize the radiated noise.
Noise and your new Amplifier

You've installed a new amplifier, only to discover noise in your system that wasn't there
before. Don't panic — just run down this checklist, eliminating possibilities until you find
the culprit.

An amplifier can
introduce noise into
your system through a
bad ground or through
a poor mounting.
Rubber grommets or
feet can help isolate the
amplifier from the
chassis of the vehicle, a
potential source of
noise.

Where is the amp mounted?

Is it near something that could be radiating noise, like a rear-mounted tuner or computer?
If so, unbolt it and move it away to see if the noise stops. Remove your patch cables. If
you still hear noise, check to see if your amp is isolated from the vehicle's chassis. Any
contact between your amp's metal casing and your vehicle's body could cause noise
problems.

Check your ground wire

Is it securely attached to the vehicle's chassis with a good contact to clean metal? Your
ground wire should ideally be 18" long at most — a longer ground wire can cause noise
problems. Improper grounding causes most system noise problems.

Check your gain structure

After you've set the gain on your amplifier, check for system noise (or hiss) with the
engine off. Insert a blank tape (or put your CD player on pause), and turn the volume way
up. If you hear an unusual amount of hiss, reset your gain structure by reducing the gain
on your amplifier so that your receiver is supplying more signal in order to reach the
same volume level. Experiment until you eliminate the hiss or reduce it as much as
possible. A tiny bit of hiss is OK. You won't hear it while driving.

Are you hearing engine noise?

Any amp installation can be prone to engine noise. You may hear a whining or clicking
sound (its pitch will vary with engine speed). Since most noise problems come from a
poor ground, always make sure your ground wire is connected firmly to bare metal in the
event of a noise problem. You can also try isolating your amp from the chassis of your
vehicle by mounting it on a board or using rubber grommets or feet; using a different
brand of patch cables; or, only if all else fails, installing a noise suppressor . The tricky
part is figuring out which step or steps to take. Please read the rest of this section and try
some of the simple tests.

Noise in the patch cables

Noise can be picked up by the RCA patch cables connecting your components. To test
this, detach the cables from your amp. (Note: A small number of amplifiers mute
themselves when patch cables are removed. To defeat the automatic mute, insert one side
(left or right) of a spare patch cable into the amp's left and right input jacks.) Turn on
your system and engine. If the noise is gone, reconnect the cables to the amp, and
disconnect them from your receiver. If you hear the noise, your patch cables are definitely
picking it up. Try re-routing them, taking care to separate them from your power cable by
at least 18 inches. Also, newer cars may have a cable that provides power to computers
and lights in the rear of the vehicle — make sure that your patch cables aren't too close to
this cable.
 Inexpensive, standard patch cables (left) are more susceptible to noise
than premium, twisted pair designs (right).

You should also switch to higher-quality patch cables. The inexpensive RCA cables many
people use to connect their components don't have the shielding or conductivity necessary
to deflect noise in the metallic, highly-conductive automobile environment. Twisted pair
RCA patch cables excel at rejecting noise generated by your vehicle. As a last resort, a
ground loop isolator (like PAC's SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver's preamp
outputs and your amp to minimize this problem.

Noise picked up by your antenna

If it's not in the patch cables, the noise may be coming from a ground loop caused by
your antenna. Plug all your patch cables back in and unplug your antenna. If the noise
goes away, try an antenna noise suppressor (like American International's AS100). This
filter plugs in-line between your receiver and your antenna, breaking the ground path
between them.

Noise picked up by the power or ground cables

If you still have noise after unplugging the antenna, it may be coming in through the
amp's main power cable. Noise can be created by cable of insufficient gauge, so you
might try thicker cable.
If you cannot find the faulty ground in your multi-amp system, a
ground loop isolator can help minimize the problem.

Multiple amplifiers can also create ground loop problems, which can usually be solved by
grounding each amplifier with its own separate wire. If you are unable to locate the
cause, a ground loop isolator (like PAC's SNI-1) can be installed between the receiver's
preamp outputs and the amplifiers to minimize this problem.

Radiated noise

If the antenna isn't causing the noise, try pulling the receiver from the dash while a tape
or CD is playing. If the noise goes away, it's being radiated into your system. Try
rerouting the wiring at the back of the receiver to stop the noise that's radiating into your
system.

Noise in speaker wiring

Noise can also come in through the speaker wires (extremely rare). To test them, turn the
system off and disconnect the speaker wires from the amps. Now start the car. If the noise
is still there, then it's being radiated into the speaker wires. You'll have to reposition them.

Noise from your electrical system

If you've tried all of the noise-fighting tips above and you still hear the noise, the problem
might be with your vehicle.

Have a mechanic check your alternator and battery. If your car is older and hasn't been
tuned up recently, you may have ignition noise. It's a ticking noise that varies in speed as
you accelerate. You may need a tune-up involving resistor-type spark plugs, shielded
carbon-core spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil.

If the noise doesn't disappear, then your ignition system may not be grounded well
enough. It may be broadcasting ticks to other items such as your air cleaner, hood,
exhaust system, etc. With your sound system on and the car running, try grounding each
of these different components of the car. Call for details on how to sniff out the noisy
component. It's possible that grounding one of your car's components will eliminate the
noise. If so, make the ground permanent with a braided ground strap.
Noise and your nervous system

Noise problems can be very frustrating, especially when you can't wait to hear your new
equipment. It helps to remember that you've just placed a very sophisticated piece of
electronic gear (a new receiver or amplifier) in the middle of an extremely complex
system — your vehicle's electrical wiring. Noise is just nature's way of telling you that
something's out of whack. Just run down the list, eliminating possible noises sources until
you find the problem.