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der Kulinarischen Kultur Irans'' in Die Welt des Islams XXIII-XXIV.</ref>. Mīrzā ʿAlī-Akbar Khan Āšpaz-bāšī, chef to the court of Nāṣer-al-Dīn Shah (1264-1313/1848-96), recorded dolma as a category of [[Persian cuisine]] and gave recipes for stuffing grape leaves, cabbage leaves, [[cucumber]]s, eggplants, [[apple]]s, and [[quince]]s.<ref name="auto"/>
der Kulinarischen Kultur Irans'' in Die Welt des Islams XXIII-XXIV.</ref>. Mīrzā ʿAlī-Akbar Khan Āšpaz-bāšī, chef to the court of Nāṣer-al-Dīn Shah (1264-1313/1848-96), recorded dolma as a category of [[Persian cuisine]] and gave recipes for stuffing grape leaves, cabbage leaves, [[cucumber]]s, eggplants, [[apple]]s, and [[quince]]s.<ref name="auto"/>


Some Armenian writers claim that the word from [[Armenian language|Armenian]] տոլմա {{IPA|[tolˈmɑ]|lang=hy}} or դոլմա {{IPA|[dolˈmɑ]|lang=hy}}, deriving it from the words ''toli'', 'grape leaf', and ''ma'', 'wrapped'.<ref>“[http://www.nayiri.com/imagedDictionaryBrowser.jsp?dictionaryId=6&query=%D5%A4%D6%85%D5%AC%D5%B4%D5%A1 դօլմա]” in [[Stepan Malkhasyants|Stepʿan Malxaseancʿ]], ''Hayerēn bacʿatrakan baṙaran (Armenian Explanatory Dictionary)'', in 4 vols, Yerevan: State Publishing House of the Armenian SSR, 1944-45</ref> Toli as a grape leave was recorded in the inscriptions of the [[Kingdom of Van]] (Urartu). It is claimed that in [[Classical Armenian]], the dish was called Tolimis, meaning "meat in grape leaf". Over time, tolimis turned into tolim, followed by tolima, and finally tolma.<ref>[https://www.armenianow.com/features/31107/armenia_tolma_traditional_dish Tolma Festival: Traditional Armenian ways of wrapping meat in leaves presented anew]</ref><ref>[http://en.meetinghalfway.eu/2013/08/cooking-with-grandma-armenia-tolma/ Cooking With Grandma (Armenia): Tolma]</ref> Indeed, there is even an Armenian organization devoted to promoting this position. Other writers consider this to be a case of gastronomic [[nationalism]].<ref>Yelena Osipova, "From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of the Dolma in the South Caucasus", ''Public Diplomacy Magazine'' [http://www.publicdiplomacymagazine.com/from-gastronationalism-to-gastrodiplomacy-reversing-the-securitization-of-the-dolma-in-the-south-caucasus 2 March 2014]</ref>
Some Armenian writers claim that the word from [[Armenian language|Armenian]] տոլմա {{IPA|[tolˈmɑ]|lang=hy}} or դոլմա {{IPA|[dolˈmɑ]|lang=hy}}, deriving it from the words ''toli'', 'grape leaf', and ''ma'', 'wrapped',<ref>“[http://www.nayiri.com/imagedDictionaryBrowser.jsp?dictionaryId=6&query=%D5%A4%D6%85%D5%AC%D5%B4%D5%A1 դօլմա]” in [[Stepan Malkhasyants|Stepʿan Malxaseancʿ]], ''Hayerēn bacʿatrakan baṙaran (Armenian Explanatory Dictionary)'', in 4 vols, Yerevan: State Publishing House of the Armenian SSR, 1944-45</ref> where ''toli'' 'grape leaf' is a borrowing from [[Urartian language|Urartian]]. In [[Classical Armenian]], the dish was said to be called ''tolimis'' 'meat in grape leaf'. Over time, ''tolimis'' would have developed into ''tolim'', ''tolima'', and finally ''tolma''.<ref name="Petrosian">Petrosian, I. and Underwood, D. (2006). ''Armenian Food: Fact, Fiction and Folklore''. Yerkir Publishing, Bloomington, Indiana, USA. Page 82.</ref><ref>[https://www.armenianow.com/features/31107/armenia_tolma_traditional_dish Tolma Festival: Traditional Armenian ways of wrapping meat in leaves presented anew]</ref><ref>[http://en.meetinghalfway.eu/2013/08/cooking-with-grandma-armenia-tolma/ Cooking With Grandma (Armenia): Tolma]</ref> Indeed, there is even an Armenian organization devoted to promoting this position. Other writers consider this to be a case of gastronomic [[nationalism]].<ref>Yelena Osipova, "From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of the Dolma in the South Caucasus", ''Public Diplomacy Magazine'' [http://www.publicdiplomacymagazine.com/from-gastronationalism-to-gastrodiplomacy-reversing-the-securitization-of-the-dolma-in-the-south-caucasus 2 March 2014]</ref> Other Armenian scholars have avoided the Turkish connections of the word ''tolma'' by coining other names for it, like ''litsk'' 'filler', ''patoog'' 'wrapper', and ''terevapat'' 'leaf-wrapper'.<ref name="Petrosian"/>


Internationally, the food is called dolma. It is a stuffed vegetable that is hollowed out and filled with stuffing. This applies to [[zucchini]], tomato, pepper, eggplant, and the like; stuffed [[Mackerel (food)|mackerel]], [[Squid (food)|squid]], and [[mussel]] are also called ''dolma''. Dishes involving wrapping leaves such as vine leaves or cabbage leaves around a filling are called ''[[sarma (food)|sarma]]'', though in many languages the distinction is usually not made.
Internationally, the food is called dolma. It is a stuffed vegetable that is hollowed out and filled with stuffing. This applies to [[zucchini]], tomato, pepper, eggplant, and the like; stuffed [[Mackerel (food)|mackerel]], [[Squid (food)|squid]], and [[mussel]] are also called ''dolma''. Dishes involving wrapping leaves such as vine leaves or cabbage leaves around a filling are called ''[[sarma (food)|sarma]]'', though in many languages the distinction is usually not made.

Revision as of 20:17, 29 June 2018

For other uses, see Dolma (disambiguation).
Dolma
Classical Azerbaijani dolma with vine leaf (top) and with eggplant, tomato and pepper (bottom)
CourseMeze or main dish
Region or stateMediterranean. Central Asia, Eastern Europe, Middle East, Western Asia
Serving temperatureCold or hot
Main ingredientsStuffed peppers, Vine leaf, Rice
VariationsPartial

Dolma is a family of stuffed vegetable dishes common in the Mediterranean cuisine and surrounding regions including the Balkans, the Caucasus, Russia, Central Asia and Middle East. Common vegetables to stuff include tomato, pepper, onion, zucchini, eggplant, and garlic. Meat dolmas are generally served warm, often with tahini or egg-lemon sauce. Dolmas prepared with olive oil and stuffed with rice are generally served cold with a garlic-yogurt sauce. Stuffed vegetables are also common in Greek cuisine, called gemista, as well as in Italian cuisine, where they are named ripieni ("stuffed").[1] Dishes of cabbage or stuffed grape leaves are sometimes also called sarma.

In 2017, dolma making in Azerbaijan was included into the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists.[2]

Names and etymology

Dolma is a verbal noun in Turkish for the word dolmak, "to be stuffed."[3][4][5][6] In Persia, at least one variety can be traced back at least as early as the late 16th century[7]. Mīrzā ʿAlī-Akbar Khan Āšpaz-bāšī, chef to the court of Nāṣer-al-Dīn Shah (1264-1313/1848-96), recorded dolma as a category of Persian cuisine and gave recipes for stuffing grape leaves, cabbage leaves, cucumbers, eggplants, apples, and quinces.[5]

Some Armenian writers claim that the word from Armenian տոլմա [tolˈmɑ] or դոլմա [dolˈmɑ], deriving it from the words toli, 'grape leaf', and ma, 'wrapped',[8] where toli 'grape leaf' is a borrowing from Urartian. In Classical Armenian, the dish was said to be called tolimis 'meat in grape leaf'. Over time, tolimis would have developed into tolim, tolima, and finally tolma.[9][10][11] Indeed, there is even an Armenian organization devoted to promoting this position. Other writers consider this to be a case of gastronomic nationalism.[12] Other Armenian scholars have avoided the Turkish connections of the word tolma by coining other names for it, like litsk 'filler', patoog 'wrapper', and terevapat 'leaf-wrapper'.[9]

Internationally, the food is called dolma. It is a stuffed vegetable that is hollowed out and filled with stuffing. This applies to zucchini, tomato, pepper, eggplant, and the like; stuffed mackerel, squid, and mussel are also called dolma. Dishes involving wrapping leaves such as vine leaves or cabbage leaves around a filling are called sarma, though in many languages the distinction is usually not made.

History

Egyptian cuisine - Mahshi

Dolma have been a part of Middle Eastern cuisine for centuries.[13]

It is a common dish in Iraqi cuisine, which includes a version of stuffed cabbage leaves, onions in aubergines cooked in tomato sauce.[14] Syrians, Lebanese, Palestinians, Iraqis and Iranians have been making stuffed grape leaves for centuries. Over time, regional variations developed. In the Persian Gulf, basmati rice is preferred, and the flavor of the stuffing may be enhanced using tomatoes, onions and cumin.[13]

Dolma are part of cuisine of the Sephardic Jews as well.[15] There are some variations in Jewish family dishes that are not found in other versions. Iraqi Jewish families had a version of dolma with sweet and sour flavors that were not found in other versions.[16]

Variants

There are many varieties of the zeytinyağlı (with olive oil) and sağyağlı (with clarified butter) dolmas. The zeytinyağlı dolmas are usually stuffed with rice and served cold, but variations with meat based fillings are served warm.[17][18]

Wrapped Sarma

The origins of stuffed grape leaves are unknown, but the dish was popular throughout the Ottoman Empire and can be found in many regional cuisines today. Sephardim call them yaprakes finos, and they are known as dolma bargh in Iran, dolmades in Greece, yalanchi sarma in Armenia, and yerba in Syria.[19] Stuffed grape leaves without meat are sometimes called yalancı dolma.[20]

Vişneli yalancı dolması is a variation of stuffed grape leaves where the rice is seasoned with cinnamon, allspice and mint. The dolmas are slowly cooked together with morello cherries, and plums may be used also.[21] In a version from the Turkish chef Arda Türkmen, the rice is cooked in morello cherry juice with spices, sour pomegranate syrup (nar ekşisi), currants and toasted pine nuts.[22]

Broad leaves from other wild plants, like beta trigyna, rumex gracilescens and rumex patientia, may also be gathered and used to make sarma.[23] Stuffed chard leaves are called pazı dolması in Turkey[24] and dolmas de pazi by Sephardi Jews who settled in Argentina.[25]

Lor dolması is a dish, from Erzurum,[26] of fresh lor cheese and bulgur wrapped in evelik leaves (from the Armenian eveliyh)[27] and cooked in a traditional earthenware güveç.[28]

In Persian cuisine basuts dolma is a dish of cabbage rolls stuffed with beans and tart fruits. In Armenia stuffed cabbage rolls are called Lenten Dolma or Pasuts Tolma (պասուց տոլմա). It is wrapped with cabbage leaves, and stuffed with red beans, garbanzo beans, lentils, cracked wheat, tomato paste, onion and many spices and flavorings.[29] Pasuts tolma is made of seven different grains – chickpea, bean, lentil, cracked wheat, pea, rice and maize. All the grains are boiled. This dolma is called pasuts (fast day) because the Christian New Year features the fast days, which end on Easter day.[citation needed]

Egyptians call this main course mahshi (also spelled mashi or mashy). It is stuffed vine leaves[30] but traditionally, cabbage is used in the winter and vine leaves are used in the summer.[31]

Vegetables

Mülebbes dolma is a historic recipe from the Ottoman era.[32] Halep dolması is a dolma variant—named for Aleppo, it is a dish of eggplants stuffed with a meat and rice filling that is flavored with spices and either sour plum flavoring syrup or lemon juice.[33][34] Şalgam dolma are stuffed russian turnips.[35][36].

Soğan dolması or stuffed onion

Soğan dolması, or stuffed onions, are a traditional dish in Bosnia, considered the specialty of Mostar.[citation needed] Ingredients include onions, minced beef, rice, oil, tomato purée, paprika, vinegar or sour cream, strained yogurt (locally known as kiselo mlijeko, literally "sour milk"), black pepper, salt and spices. After the onion's skin is removed, the larger, external, layers (leaves) of onion bulbs are used as containers, so called "shirts" (Old Turk. "dolama(n)" for a special kind of Ottoman robe)[citation needed] for the meat stuffing. The remaining part of onion is also used, mixed with the meat and fried on oil for a couple of minutes, to obtain the base of the stuffing. To extract the separate "shirts", the entire bulbs are cut on the top and then boiled until soft enough to be pried off, layer by layer. In order to prevent a further softening and crumbling, the bulbs should be blanched. The "shirts" are removed from the bulbs by slow and gentle finger pressure. Filled "shirts" ("dolme") are boiled slowly at a low heat in broth. The level of liquid should be sufficient to cover the dolmas entirely. Sogan-dolma are usually served with dense natural yogurt.[citation needed]

Enginar dolması is stuffed whole artichoke hearts. They may be stuffed with seasoned rice[37] or ground meat cooked in fresh tomato sauce with aleppo pepper.[38]

Seafood

"Midye dolma", Stuffed mussels

There are seafood variants of dolma also. Stuffed mussels, called midye dolma are very popular in Turkey. Midye dolma may be filled with rice, onion, black pepper and pimento spice.[39]

Uskumru dolma (stuffed mackerel) is a staple of Istanbul cuisine. The version that was traditionally prepared by Armenian cooks is particularly well-regarded. After the fish is prepared by carefully separating the skin from the meat, the meat is sauteed with onions, currants, dried apricots, almonds, hazlenuts, pine nuts, walnuts, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, ginger, fresh herbs and lemon juice. The entire mixture is stuffed into the whole, intact skin. The stuffed mackerel is then either baked or preferably grilled long enough to brown the skin.[40][41]

Offal

There are several varieties of dolma made with offal. Dalak dolması, widely to be a delicacy of Armenian origin, is spleen stuffed with rice that has been seasoned with allspice, salt, pepper, mint, parsley and onion. It may be served an accompaniment with the anise-flavored liquor called raki.[42][43]

Fruit-based dolmas

There are some fruit-based dolmas as well like şekerli ayva dolması (quince stuffed with a rice and currant filling, flavored with coriander, cinnamon and sugar)[44] and pekmezli ayva dolması (meat and bulgur stuffed quince flavored with a traditional Turkish syrup, similar to molasses, called pekmez).[45] Pekmez is also an ingredient in the meat-based variants of elma dolması (stuffed apples) and sarı erık dolması (stuffed yellow plums).[46]

See also

References

  1. ^ Gosetti (1967), passim
  2. ^ Dolma making and sharing tradition, a marker of cultural identity. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
  3. ^ "dolma - Definition of dolma in English by Oxford Dictionaries". Oxford Dictionaries - English.
  4. ^ "Definition of DOLMA". www.m-w.com.
  5. ^ a b electricpulp.com. "DOLMA – Encyclopaedia Iranica". www.iranicaonline.org.
  6. ^ www.forsnet.com.tr. "TÜRK DİL KURUMU". www.tdk.gov.tr.
  7. ^ Fragner, Bert G. (1984) Zur Erforschung der Kulinarischen Kultur Irans in Die Welt des Islams XXIII-XXIV.
  8. ^ “դօլմա” in Stepʿan Malxaseancʿ, Hayerēn bacʿatrakan baṙaran (Armenian Explanatory Dictionary), in 4 vols, Yerevan: State Publishing House of the Armenian SSR, 1944-45
  9. ^ a b Petrosian, I. and Underwood, D. (2006). Armenian Food: Fact, Fiction and Folklore. Yerkir Publishing, Bloomington, Indiana, USA. Page 82.
  10. ^ Tolma Festival: Traditional Armenian ways of wrapping meat in leaves presented anew
  11. ^ Cooking With Grandma (Armenia): Tolma
  12. ^ Yelena Osipova, "From Gastronationalism to Gastrodiplomacy: Reversing the Securitization of the Dolma in the South Caucasus", Public Diplomacy Magazine 2 March 2014
  13. ^ a b Salloum, Habeeb (2012-02-28). Arabian Nights Cookbook: From Lamb Kebabs to Baba Ghanouj, Delicious Homestyle Arabian Cooking. Tuttle Publishing. ISBN 978-1-4629-0524-9.
  14. ^ Al-Omari, Jehad (2008-08-29). Understanding the Arab Culture, 2nd Edition: A practical cross-cultural guide to working in the Arab world. Little, Brown Book Group. ISBN 978-1-84803-646-8.
  15. ^ Kittler, Pamela Goyan; Sucher, Kathryn P.; Nelms, Marcia (2011-08-22). Food and Culture. Cengage Learning. ISBN 978-0-538-73497-4.
  16. ^ Meri, Josef (2016-06-23). The Routledge Handbook of Muslim-Jewish Relations. Routledge. p. 486. ISBN 978-1-317-38321-5.
  17. ^ Kopka, Deborah (2011-09-01). Passport Series: Middle East. Milliken Publishing Company. ISBN 978-1-4291-2261-0.
  18. ^ Marks, Gil (2010-11-17). Encyclopedia of Jewish Food. HMH. ISBN 978-0-544-18631-6. {{cite book}}: Unknown parameter |urk= ignored (help)
  19. ^ Marks, Gil (2008-03-11). Olive Trees and Honey: A Treasury of Vegetarian Recipes from Jewish Communities Around the World. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. ISBN 978-0-544-18750-4.
  20. ^ Marks, Gil (2010-11-17). Encyclopedia of Jewish Food. HMH. ISBN 978-0-544-18631-6.
  21. ^ "Vişneli Yaprak Sarma tarifi - Haber - Mutfağım". Kanal D. Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  22. ^ Arda'nın Mutfağıundefined (Director). ARDA'NIN RAMAZAN MUTFAĞI VİŞNELİ SARMA VE ŞERBETLİ GÜL TATLISI. Event occurs at 1322 seconds. Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  23. ^ Isil Simsek; Fulya Aytekin; Erdem Yesilada; Şinasi Yildirimli (2004). "An Ethnobotanical Survey of the Beypazari, Ayas, and Güdül District Towns of Ankara Province (Turkey)". Economic Botany. 58 (4): 705–720. JSTOR 4256883.
  24. ^ Migros Türkiye. Üçgen Pazı Dolması. Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  25. ^ Diner, Hasia R.; Cinotto, Simone (2018). Global Jewish Foodways: A History. U of Nebraska Press. ISBN 978-1-4962-0609-1.
  26. ^ Kristbergsson, Kristberg; Oliveira, Jorge (2016-03-09). Traditional Foods: General and Consumer Aspects. Springer. ISBN 978-1-4899-7648-2.
  27. ^ Dankoff, Robert (1995). Armenian Loanwords in Turkish. Otto Harrassowitz Verlag. ISBN 978-3-447-03640-5.
  28. ^ Türk halk kültüründen derlemeler. Kültür Bakanlığı. 1990. ISBN 978-975-17-0712-3.
  29. ^ "Pasus Tolma Recipe - Պասուց Տոլմա - Heghineh Cooking Show". 9 December 2015.
  30. ^ Hervé Beaumont (2008). Egypte (in French). Editions Marcus. pp. 36–. ISBN 978-2-7131-0269-1.
  31. ^ Andrew Humphreys (1998). Cairo. Lonely Planet. p. 156. ISBN 978-0-86442-548-5.
  32. ^ Virgül. Pusula Yayıncılık. 2007.
  33. ^ Vakfı, Türkiye Ekonomik ve Toplumsal Tarih (1994). Dünden bugüne İstanbul ansiklopedisi. Kültür Bakanlığı. ISBN 978-975-7306-06-1.
  34. ^ Erdoğdu, Şeref (1999). Ankaram. T.C. Kültür Bakanlığı. ISBN 978-975-17-2180-8.
  35. ^ Turkish folk culture researches. Halk Kültürünü Araştırma Dairesi. 1990.
  36. ^ Zat, Vefa (2002). Eski İstanbul meyhaneleri. ISBN 978-975-470-998-8.
  37. ^ "İzmir Usulü Enginar Dolması". Sabah. Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  38. ^ "Kıymalı enginar dolması tarifi". MİLLİYET HABER - TÜRKİYE'NİN HABER SİTESİ. Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  39. ^ "Midye dolma Tarifi Nasıl Yapılır?". www.lezzet.com.tr.
  40. ^ Basan, Ghillie (1997-04-15). Classic Turkish Cooking. Macmillan. p. 138. ISBN 978-0-312-15617-6.
  41. ^ YAŞİN, Mehmet. "Uskumru mu kolyoz mu?". Retrieved 2018-06-29.
  42. ^ Kesmez, Melisa; Aydın, Mehmet Said. Rakı Cep Ansiklopedisi: Rakı Cep Ansiklopedisi. Overteam Yayınları. ISBN 978-605-5058-00-5.
  43. ^ Zat, Erdir (2014). Türkiye Meyhaneler Rehberi: Türkiye Meyhaneler Rehberi. Overteam Yayınları. ISBN 978-605-5058-11-1.
  44. ^ Üçer, Müjgân (2006). Anamın aşı tandırın başı: Sivas mutfağ̮ı : il merkezi ve ilçe yemekleri : gelenek, görenek, inançlar ve sözlü kültür. Kitabevi.
  45. ^ Toygar, Kâmil; Toygar, Nimet Berkok (2005). Ankara'da bağcılık ve bağ kültürü. Birlik Matbaacılık. ISBN 978-975-95216-5-3.
  46. ^ Taste: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery. Retrieved 2018-06-29.

Sources

  • Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food. ISBN 0-19-211579-0.
  • Gosetti Della Salda, Anna (1967). Le ricette regionali italiane (in Italian). Milano: Solares.

Media related to Dolma at Wikimedia Commons

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