Kalamkari Painting

KALAMKARI
PAINTING
KALAMKARI PAINTING
Kalamkari is an ancient Indian art that originated
about 3000 years ago. It derives its name from
Kalam meaning Pen, and Kari meaning work,
literally Pen-work. The Kalamkari artist uses a
bamboo or date palm stick pointed at one end
with a bundle of fine hair attached to this pointed
end to serve as the brush or pen. These paintings
were earlier drawn on cotton fabric only, but now
we can see these paintings on silk and other
materials as well. The Kalamkari art includes
both, printing and painting. The colors used in
making these paintings are organic. Most of the
colors are prepared using parts of plants – roots,
leaves along with mineral salts of iron, tin,
copper, alum, etc., which are used as mordants.
There are numerous forms and styles of this type
of painting throughout the Indian subcontinent.
HISTORY
In ancient India, the art of painting
using organic colors and dyes was very
popular, but this style of painting
originated at Kalahasti (80 miles north
of Chennai) and at Masulipatnam (200
miles east of Hyderabad). The paintings
then used to depict Hindu Deities and
the scenes from Hindu mythology.
Masulipatnam being a muslim region,
the weavers were involved in the block
printing art whereas the artists from
Kalahasti practiced painting Hindu
mythological scenes.
STYLES OF KALAMKARI PAINTING
 Masulipatnam Kalamkari: Owing to Muslim rule in Golconda, the
Masulipatnam Kalamkari was influenced by Persian motifs & designs, widely
adapted to suit their taste. The outlines and main features are done using hand
carved blocks. The finer details are later done using the pen.
 Sri Kalahasti Style: The Kalahasti tradition which developed in the temple
region mostly concentrated on themes form Hindu mythology, epics
(Ramayana, Mahabharatha), images of Gods and heroes.
 Karrupur Style: Karrupur is a style of Kalamkari that developed in the
Thanjavur region during the Maratha rule. The Kalamkari work was a further
embellishment to the gold brocade work in the woven fabric, which was used as
sarees & dhotis by the royal family during the period of Raja Sarfoji and later
Raja Shivaji.
TOOLS USED IN KALAMKARI ART
 Charcoal Pencil Twigs from nearby tamarind trees are collected and burnt. The fire is
frequently prodded to make sure that all the pieces are evenly burnt. When the twigs are
half burnt and blackened, the fire is extinguished with sand. This process is done to cool
the twigs. Half-burnt twigs form the charcoal pencil. The charcoal drawing provides the
basic layout in the Kalamkari painting.
 Two types of pens are used. They are made with bamboo sticks. One is a sharp-tipped one
for outline drawing; the other has a broad, round tip and is used for filling in with
mordant. The broad-tipped kalam has a fibrous edge.
 Myrobalan is soaked overnight in water, and then ground on a grinding stone to make a thick
paste.
 For painting, the craftsmen use thick unbleached cloth called gadha .
RAW MATERIAL USED
1. Gadha Cloth 2. Indigo Blue 3. Alzarin 4. Anar 5. Rubia Cordifolia Linn (Chavalkudi) 6.
Pobbaku 7. Ventilago Madraspatana Gartan (Surudu Chekka) 8. Myrobalan In addition rusted
iron, tamarind twigs, alum, cow’s milk and cowdung are also used.
TECHNIQUE
The process is very slow and vigorous. The
kalamkari goes through a process of resist –
dyeing and hand printing. There are lots and
lots of treatments involved before and after the
painting are done. The colors change
depending on the treatment of cloth and
quality of the mordant. Every step in the
process is painstakingly done and with
perfection. Process of making Kalamkari
fabric, involves 23 steps. This involves
bleaching Kalamkari fabric, softening it,
drying it in sun, preparing natural dyes, air
drying and washing.
MOTIF USED
KALAMKARI PATTERNS
In recent times, two other types of Kalamkari patterns have also emerged, based on the
states where it is created. Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh are two prime states in India,
where two different types of Kalamkari patterns are done.
 The Andhra Kalamkari borrows design inspiration from forts, palaces and temples of
India, along with motifs of animals and birds.
 While the Gujarat Kalamkari depict motifs of mythological characters like Krishna-
Arjuna from Mahabharata, lord Krishna, lord Ganesha, lord Buddha etc.
DID YOU KNOW
The artists who worked on the Kalamkari painting scrolls were known as Jadupatuas or Duari
Patuas. This can be translated to ‘magical painters’. European trading merchants however gave
the process their own names which included the more familiar ‘chintz’ which came from the
British. The Dutch called it ’sitz’ whilst the Portuguese referred to it as ‘pintado’.
PRESENT DAY SCENARIO
Kalamkari these days is not restricted to paintings and sarees only; many fashion attires
also have kalamkari prints. Modern outfits are made out of Kalamkari print fabrics and
are accepted by people of all generations. Due to vibrant kalamkari designs and the use
of natural dyes, kalamkari is used as a symbol of region’s heritage. Also, many artists
produce items of furnishings and fabrics that are made out of Kalamkari prints .
PRODUCTS
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KALAMKARI

PRESENT DAY SCENARIO

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