Kalamkari

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kalamkari

• Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand painting


done on cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind
pen, using natural dyes.
• The word Kalamkari is derived from a Persian
word where ‘kalam‘ means pen and ‘kari‘
refers to craftsmanship.
• This art involves 23 tedious steps of dyeing,
bleaching, hand painting, block printing,
starching, cleaning and more.
History
• Centuries ago, folk singers and painters used to
wander from one village to other, narrating
stories of Hindu mythology to the village
people. But with course of time, the process of
telling tales transformed into canvas painting
and that’s when Kalamkari art first saw the
light of day.
• This colorful art dates back to more than 3000
B.C.
• According to the historians, fabric samples
depicting Kalamkari art was found at the
archeological sites of Mohenjo-daro.
• Cotton fabric used for Kalamkari is first treated
with a solution of cow dung and bleach. After
keeping the fabric in this solution for hours,
the fabric gets a uniform off-white color. After
this, the cotton fabric is immersed in a mixture
of buffalo milk and Myrobalans.
• This avoids smudging of dyes in the fabric
when it is painted with natural dyes.
• The fabric likewise, is washed twenty times
and dried under the sun.
• Once the fabric is ready for painting, artists
sketch motifs and designs on the fabric.
• Post this, the Kalamkari artists prepare dyes
using natural sources to fill colors within the
drawings
Colors used
• Kalamkari art primarily use earthy colors like
indigo, mustard, rust, black and green.
• Natural dyes used to paint colors in Kalamkari
art is extracted for natural sources with no use
of chemicals and artificial  matter.
• Black- craftsmen extract black color by
blending jaggery, water and iron fillings which 
they essentially use for outlining the sketches.
• mustard or yellow is derived by boiling
pomegranate peels.
• red hues are created from bark of madder
or algirin.
• blue is obtained from indigo .
• green is derived by mixing yellow and blue
together.
motifs
• Mythological motifs of Krishna Raas-Leela,
Indian god and goddesses like Parvati, Vishnu,
Shri Jaganath; designs of peacock, lotus; and
scenes from the Hindu epics like Mahabharata
and Ramayana are used in plenty.
Types of Kalamkari
• There are two identifiable styles of Kalamkari
art in India – Srikalahasti style and
Machilipatnam style.
• In the Machilipatnam style of Kalamkari,
motifs are essentially printed with hand-
carved traditional blocks with intricate
detailing painted by hands.
• On the other hand, Srikalahasti style of
painting draws inspiration from the Hindu
mythology describing scenes from the epics
and folklore. This style holds a strong religious
connect because of its origin in the temples.
Present day
• In recent times, two other types of Kalamkari
patterns have also emerged, based on the
states where it is created. Gujarat and Andhra
Pradesh are two prime states in India, where
two different types of Kalamkari patterns are
done.
• The Andhra Kalamkari borrows design
inspiration from forts, palaces and temples of
India, along with motifs of animals and birds.
• While the Gujarat Kalamkari depict motifs of
mythological characters like Krishna-Arjuna
from Mahabharata, lord Krishna, lord
Ganesha, lord Buddha etc.

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