DAY 1

In order to get ahead of the crowds, start your day at Edinburgh Castle when it opens at
9.30am to see the Scottish Crown Jewels and Stone of Destiny. Afterwards, you can follow
the Royal Mile on foot to explore various quirky shops, pubs, restaurants and narrow closes
steeped in history.
If you want to get an idea of what you are seeing as you go, there are a wide range of
walking, cycling and bus tours available.
Jump aboard one of the open-top tour buses where the fantastic onboard guides will supply
an entertaining and knowledgeable insight into this fascinating city (multi-language tours are
available). The buses will allow you to jump on and off at your leisure to visit attractions like
the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Edinburgh Dungeon and the Scottish
Parliament and provide a great introduction to the city.
There are plenty of cafs and eating places scattered around the city centre for a quick lunch.
If youve spent the morning in the Old Town area (and you could easily spend several days
there), cross North Bridge to the other part of Edinburghs World Heritage Site, the
Georgian New Town.
Later on, head back to the Royal Mile for a meal in one of Edinburghs many international or
Scottish restaurants followed by a walking ghost tour.

DAY 2

From Princes Street in the city centre, its a short number 22 Lothian Bus ride to The Royal
Yacht Britannia, which is now docked permanently at Ocean Terminal in Leith. After the
tour, take some time to explore the Port of Leith, one of the most fashionable areas to live in
Edinburgh.
If youre feeling energetic, climb Arthurs Seat in Holyrood Park. Last active over 300 million
years ago, this extinct volcano is one of the best vantage points over the city. For a gentler
walk, why not take a stroll around the National Museum of Scotland, which reopened in
2011 after a refurbishment which has allowed it to now display over 20,000 exhibits in 36
galleries?
If you dined in the Old Town last night, try something different around George Street tonight.
One of the citys main eating areas, there are restaurants to suit all tastes here.

DAY 3

Stroll up the Royal Mile and pay a visit to the fascinating Camera Obscura and World of
Illusions which has captivated visitors with its amazing optical illusions and panoramic views
of Edinburgh for over 150 years. Step inside a darkened room and watch incredible live
moving images of the city and its inhabitants projected onto a table by a giant periscope while
listening to colourful tales from the past.
Not far away, Scotlands national drink is honoured at the Scotch Whisky
Experience where you can sample a dram at the end of your tour. Enjoy a barrel ride to learn
all about the whisky-making process and see the worlds largest collection of Scotch whisky.
Why not stop for lunch at the Amber Restaurant which offers traditional Scottish produce?
Once youve recharged your batteries head down to Princes Street and George Street, the
ideal destinations for some retail therapy. If shopping is not your thing, spend the afternoon
touring the Royal Botanic Garden with its wonderful glasshouses, exhibitions and a world of
colourful plants and shrubs.
In the evening, explore this UNESCO City of Literature on the Edinburgh Literary Pub
Tour or head to the Shore in Leith, a fashionable and picturesque coastal area with a wide
selection of bars and restaurants that serve fresh fish caught from the surrounding waters.

SCOTLAND
This two day tour will let you explore some of Scotlands most popular
sights; go monster spotting by Loch Ness and see some spectacular
scenery. This really is essential Scotland!
Day One
Waterfalls and a Bonnie Prince
Departing from Edinburgh and Glasgow we make our way to Bonnie Perthshire, a
land of scenic valleys, remote glens, rushing rivers and peaceful lochs. We will
make a stop amidst this wonderful scenery when we visit Dunkeld. After time for
morning coffee why not visit the attractive cathedral ruins, which sit on the banks
of the River Tay?
A short drive will take us to The Hermitage, one of the most picturesque
landscapes in Scotland. Here we have a relaxing walk through spectacularly large
Douglas Firs to an amazing folly, Ossian's Hall, that overlooks the pretty Black
Linn waterfall.
There are fine views of Blair Castle, the seat of the Dukes of Atholl the only
man allowed to have their own private army, The Atholl Highlanders. Wild
mountain vistas surround us as we start our ascent of the Drumochter Pass, the
main route into the highlands since the earliest of times.

The Cairngorm National Parkis an area of stunning natural beauty, as we will

discover. As we journey through the Spey Valley the Cairngorm Mountains, which
rise to over 4000 feet, provide a striking backdrop.
Desolate Culloden Moorwas the site of the last battle ever fought on British soil.
The Jacobite troops of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the British Army under the
command of the Duke of Cumberland clashed here in 1746. The Jacobites were
routed in a bloody battle and the aftermath changed Highland life forever. We'll
make a stop so that you can discover more about the battle and the dramatic
consequences that followed (optional).
A short drive will take us to Inverness, the Capital of the Highlands, and then to
our accommodation nestling by the banks of mysterious Loch Ness.
Overnight: Drumnadrochit
Day Two
Monsters and Massacres
After a hearty breakfast there's much to enjoy in our Highland sourroundings.
Why not visit the Loch Ness 2000 Exhibition to discover the story behind the
area's most famous resident or mount your own "Nessie" spotting expedition
when you take a sail on the loch to visit nearby Urquhart Castle (optional)?
We travel along the banks of Loch Ness to the attractive village of Fort Augustus.
Our drive through the Great Glen provides us with wonderful loch-side views as
we travel to Fort William, which sits in the shadow of Ben Nevis.
Brooding Glen Coe is next. The outstanding beauty of this place belies the tragic
tale that we'll hear next. Gather round as our guide takes us back to 1692 and
tells the story of the Massacre of Glen Coe when Campbell soldiers slaughtered 40
MacDonalds who had been their hosts. This infamous deed remains controversial
to this very day.
All too soon Glen Coe is left behind and we travel over remote and barren
Rannoch Moor. This unspoilt landscape extends over 50 square miles and is one of
the most unspoilt areas in Europe. Our descent of the "Black Mount" provides
excellent views over Loch Tulla before we make a stop in the little Highland village
of Tyndrum.
The final part of our journey together will take us through Rob Roy
McGregor country to the bonnie little village of Strathyre. As we negotiate the
Pass of Lenny we move from the Highlands back into the Lowlands. The final part
of our journey will take us along the "bonnie, bonnie banks" of Loch Lomond to
Glasgow from where we join the motorway for the short journey back to
Edinburgh and journey's end.

National Museum of Scotland (1 on map)

This recently refurbished but still appealingly eccentric palace of wonder is a mad dash through the
history of the world and everything in it both natural and man-made. More than 800 objects make up
the mind-boggling installation that is the Window on the World in the Grand Gallery, but I always first pay
a visit to the utterly charming, completely barmy Lewis Chessmen. There are interactive galleries to
keep children of all ages happy, free tours and Family Footprint Trails to make exploration more exciting.
When it all gets a bit much, stop for a giant scone in the Balcony Cafe or treat yourself to lunch or tea in
the glamorous (and correspondingly pricey) rooftop Tower Restaurant.

This appealingly eccentric palace of wonder is a mad dash through the history of the world and everything in it.

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Address: Chambers

Street, EH1 1JF

Getting there: bus to George IV Bridge (23, 27, 41, 42, 67) or
Chambers Street (35, 45)
Contact: 0300 123 6789; nms.ac.uk
Opening times: daily, 10am-5pm
Price: Free
Arthurs Seat (2)

No one knows how this extinct volcano in Holyrood Park got its
name, but die-hard romantics think it was the location of
Camelot. It's 251 metres high, but if you have enough puff and
the right footwear it is a relatively easy climb. I like to start
opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse car park and follow the
Radical Road path paved in 1820 by unemployed weavers
past Salisbury Crags. Take in the ruins of St Anthonys Chapel

before the steep climb to the rocky summit with its incredible
views. Follow marked routes (maps available at the Holyrood
Park Information Centre in Horsewynd) and pay attention to
signs telling you where not to walk it might be crowded with
walkers of every description, but can still be dangerous.

No one knows how this extinct volcano in Holyrood Park got its name, but die-hard romantics think it was the
location of Camelo.

Address: Arthur's

Seat, EH8
Getting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 6)
Price: free
The Scottish Parliament (3)

Whether you consider it an over-priced blot on the landscape or

an architectural triumph, Catalonian architect Enric Miralles
controversial but award-winning building at the bottom of The
Royal Mile will always start a debate. You can buy parliamentary
shortbread in the gift shop or have a coffee while playing spot
the politician in the Parliament Caf. There is a permanent
exhibition about the Scottish Parliament, free guided tours
(booking recommended) are on offer, and, if you are keen to see
politics in action, you can book tickets to attend committee
meetings or debates. Possibilities are complicated by whether or
not Parliament is sitting, so it is best to check the website if you
are planning a visit.

Catalonian architect Enric Miralles controversial but award-winning building at the bottom of The Royal Mile will always start
a debate.

Address: Canongate,

EH99 1SP
Getting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 36)
Contact: 0131 348 5200; scottish.parliament.uk
Opening times: Mon, Fri, Sat, 10am-5pm; Tue, Wed, Thu, 9am6.30pm. Check website for opening times when Parliament is in
recess
Price: free
Dunbars Close (4)

It is easy to miss the entrance to this drowsily peaceful

hidden garden, a few steps off The Royal Mile just
past Canongate Kirk. Created by the visionary Sir
Patrick Geddes as one of a network of Old Town
gardens, it was immaculately restored in the late
1970s. A beautifully kept recreation of a 17thcentury garden, it is a series of small, delightfully
private rooms. If its fine, cross the street, walk up
the close opposite, and turn right on Holyrood
Road. A few steps along you will find Foodies at
Holyrood (foodiesatholyrood.com), where you can
hire a picnic basket to fill with good things, and a
rug which you can spread on one of the tiny lawns
at the very end of the garden.

A beautifully kept recreation of a 17th-century garden, it is a series of small, delightfully private rooms.

Address: Canongate,

High Street, EH8 8BW

Getting there: bus to Holyrood (35, 36)
Opening times: dawn to dusk
Price: free
Stockbridge (5)

Only a ten-minute walk from Princes Street and almost entirely

sufficient unto itself, Stockbridge is the kind of neighbourhood
we all wished we lived in. Cosier and more domestic than the
New Town, it nevertheless has some deliciously pretty streets
and squares. There is a great choice of fantastic (and unusual)
shops, galleries, cafs, bars and restaurants; lovely Inverleith
Park with the west gate of the Royal Botanic Gardens just
across the road; the Water of Leith to walk by; and more
hairdressers than I have ever seen in one place in my life.
Spend an hour or two having a wander, then settle in for a drink
and a meal, or shop and eat your way round the Sunday market
(stockbridgemarket.com) - and remember to bring a bag or two
for all the good things youll find to take home.

Stockbridge is the kind of neighbourhood we all wished we lived in.

Address: 10

minutes' walk north of Princes Street, to the west of

the New Town
Getting there: bus to Stockbridge (24, 29, 36, 42)
Price: free
Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (6)

At the first sign of a sunny day it feels as if all Edinburgh heads

to this deliriously tranquil space, only 15 minutes walk from the
city centre, but somehow never crowded. With 70 acres of trees,
shrubs, rare plants and specialist gardens, its easy to happily
lose yourself. If it rains, shelter in the gloriously steamy Victorian
Palm House (the tallest in Britain), although I like to hide in the
seashell and pinecone decorated stone pavilion in the Queen
Mothers Memorial Garden. There are guided garden walks from
the John Hope Gateway and exhibitions in 18th-century
Inverleith House. The Gatehouse Restaurant serves breakfast,
lunch and tea, or eat outdoors at the self-service Terrace Cafe.

With 70 acres of trees, shrubs, rare plants and specialist gardens, its easy to happily lose yourself.

Address: entrances

on Inverleith Row (East Gate) and Arboretum

Place (West Gate and John Hope Gateway)
Getting there: Bus to Inverleith - East Gate (8, 23, 27)
Contact: 0131 248 2909; rbge.org.uk
Opening times: daily: Nov-Jan, 10am-4pm; Feb, Oct, 10am-5pm;
Mar-Sep, 10am-6pm
Price: garden: free. Glasshouse: 4.50; over 60s, students, 4;
children aged 5-16, 1.10; family ticket (two adults and up to
four children), 10
Payment type: credit cards accepted
St Giles Cathedral (7)

The distinctive crown spire of this great church marks the

historic heart of The Royal Mile. Despite the ponderous piers
supporting the tower of the much-altered but essentially Gothic
High Kirk of Edinburgh, the soaring interior of this ancient church
is flooded with light. Stained glass only came to this Cradle of
Presbyterianism in the late 19th century Reformation leader
John Knox would have been very unhappy to see the colourful
window in the south wall dedicated to him. Look out for the
volunteer guides who will answer your questions, show you
around and tell you some fascinating stories.

The soaring interior of this ancient church is flooded with light.

Address: St

Giles Cathedral, EH1 1RE

Getting there: bus to George IV Bridge (23, 27, 41, 42, 67)
Contact: 0131 225 9442; stgilescathedral.org.uk
Opening times: May-Sep: Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm; Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun,
1pm-5pm. Oct-Apr: Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm; Sun, 1pm-5pm
Price: free (though visitors are invited to make a 3 donation)
St Marys Cathedral (8)

Often overlooked, this triple-spired West End cathedral

Scotlands largest was designed by George
Gilbert Scott. A celebration of Victorian Gothic
Revival, it perhaps surprisingly has unashamedly
modern stained glass by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, one
of the founders of British Pop Art. Highly
recommended, especially for the heavenly Phoebe
Anna Traquair murals in the Song School which
have recently been restored. There are free guided
tours of the Song School and the murals in August;
at other times they can be seen by appointment.

Often overlooked, this triple-spired West End cathedral Scotlands largest was designed by George Gilbert Scott.

Address: Palmerston

Place, EH12 5AW

Getting there: bus to Haymarket Terrace (12, 26, 31, 48)
Contact: 0131 225 6293; cathedral.net
Opening times: visitors welcome throughout the day, every day (but
no walking around or photography during services)
Price: free
Greyfriars (9)

Almost everyone knows the story of Bobby, the faithful little dog
who remained by his masters grave for 14 years. His statue is
at the top of Candlemakers Row, opposite the gates of
Greyfriars, the first reformed church in Scotland. The kirk,
museum and shop are open from April to October, with volunteer
guides to show visitors around, but be sure to check the website
calendar as sometimes they are closed for special events. Next
to the church is (apparently) the most haunted graveyard in
Edinburgh, complete with bad-tempered poltergeist visitors
report fainting or being scratched, bruised or bitten. Most people
visit on ghost tours, but during the day I find Greyfriars'
churchyard a lovely place just to sit, gazing at the remains of the
medieval Flodden Wall and wondering if I know anyone who
would look good in a wimple.

Almost everyone knows the story of Bobby, the faithful little dog who remained by his masters grave for 14 years.

Address: 1

Greyfriars, EH1 2QQ

Getting there: bus to Grassmarket (2) or George IV Bridge (23, 27,
41, 42, 67) or Chambers Steet (35, 45)
Contact: 0131 225 1900; greyfriarskirk.com
Opening times: church and museum: Apr-Jun, Sep, Oct, Mon-Fri,
10.30am-4.30pm, Sat, 11am-2pm; Jul, Aug, Mon-Fri, 10.30am4.30pm, Sat, 11am-4pm (but check website calendar as the Kirk
may be closed for special events). Churchyard: always
open
Price: free
Scottish National Gallery (10)

Cultural indigestion isnt an issue at this manageably-sized

gallery housing the national collection of fine art. Old Masters, a
good selection of Impressionists and Post-Impressionists and a
proudly comprehensive collection of Scottish art including
Scotlands favourite painting, The Reverend Robert Walker
Skating on Duddingston Loch are on show, as well as worldclass temporary exhibitions. Originally two buildings, the
galleries are now connected by the sleek Gardens Entrance
overlooking Princes Street Gardens. You can shop, eat and
attend free 45-minute lunchtime lectures. A useful free Gallery
Bus runs between the Scottish National Gallery and the Scottish
National Gallery of Modern Art.

Originally two buildings, the galleries are now connected by the sleek Gardens Entrance overlooking Princes Street Gardens.

Address: The

Mound, EH2 2EL

Getting there: bus to Princes Street (multiple services) or Gallery
Bus
Contact: 0131 624 6200; nationalgalleries.org
Opening times: Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun, 10am-5pm (6pm in August); Thu,
10am-7pm
Price: free (though there can be a charge for special exhibitions)
Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (11)

Scotland's national collection of modern art occupies two

buildings unimaginatively re-named Modern One and Modern
Two. They are set in beautiful grounds containing Charles
Jencks extraordinary Landform and sculptures by Henry Moore.
Cubist, Expressionist, post-war and contemporary art are well
represented, although I could easily spend all my time looking at
the fascinatingly chaotic recreation of Scottish artist Eduardo
Paolozzis studio in Modern Two. You may wish to linger in the
Caf Modern One's garden terrace, or the more formal Caf
Modern Two, which serves a particularly good afternoon tea
under the steely gaze of a seven-metre-tall sculpture of Vulcan.
A useful free Gallery Bus runs between the Scottish National
Gallery of Modern Art and the Scottish National Gallery.

Scotland's national collection of modern art occupies two buildings unimaginatively re-named Modern One and Modern Two.

Address: 75

Belford Road, EH4 3DR

Getting there: bus to Ravelston Dykes (13) or Gallery Bus
Contact: 0131 624 6200; nationalgalleries.org
Opening times: daily, 10am-5pm (6pm in August)
Price: free (though there can be a charge for special exhibitions)
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Water of Leith Walkway (12)

There are always six naked men standing in the Water of Leith
they are cast-iron sculptures by artist Antony Gormley. This
designated urban wildlife site has woods and wildflowers,
herons, kingfishers and roe deer. Recently, a pair of otters has
been spotted on the hidden 12-mile walkway from Balerno to
Leith docks. There are plenty of access points, but the section I
walk most often starts at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre in
Slateford. From there, head towards Leith, passing through
charming Dean Village with its converted mills and a dramatic
Thomas Telford bridge, then past elegant St Bernards Well to
Stockbridge or Canonmills where you can catch buses back to
Princes Street. You can buy useful downloadable maps and a
new audio trail on the Water of Leith Conservation Trust website.

There are always six naked men standing in the Water of Leith they are cast-iron sculptures by artist Antony Gormley.

Address: 24

Lanark Road, EH14 1TQ

Getting there: bus to Slateford (33, 44)
Contact: 0131 455 7367; waterofleith.org.uk
Opening times: visitor Centre: daily, 10am-4pm
Price: free
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Calton Hill (13)

Rising abruptly at the east end of Princes Street, this

monumental masons dream of a hill is a magnet to
photographers and Festival fireworks-watchers. The most
immediately recognisable building is the National Monument,
intended as a tribute to the Scottish soldiers who fell in the
Napoleonic Wars. This unfinished mini-Parthenon was
nicknamed the Scottish Disgrace (the project ran out of
money), but reinforces Edinburghs claim to be the Athens of the
North. The views from the top of the Nelson Monument are
astonishing dont forget your camera and try to time your 143step climb for when the white ball drops down the mast,
signalling the one oclock gun at the Castle.

The views from the top of the Nelson Monument are astonishing.

Address: at

the east end of Princes Street; access from Regent

Road on the south side, or Royal Terrace from the north
Getting there: bus to Princes Street (multiple services)
Opening times: always open. Nelson Monument: Apr-Sep, Mon-Sat
10am-7pm, Sun noon-5pm; Oct- Mar, Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm
Price: free. Nelson Monument: 4
Payment type: credit cards accepted
Leith (14)

Leith is an independent place. It officially merged with Edinburgh

only in 1920, with most locals very much against the idea. Still a
working port, it has always had a Jekyll and Hyde character
imposing merchants houses mixed with Dickensian tenements,
warehouses and sailors dives. Notorious for crime and infamous
for its red light district, Leith has moved up in the world since its
Trainspotting days. Now it is home to Michelin-starred
restaurants, boutique hotels, smart bars and new galleries. But
despite the respectability conferred by the recent addition of the
Royal Yacht Britannia at Ocean Terminal and the Scottish
Government at Victoria Quay, it is still rough enough round the
edges to make things interesting. Visit the Trinity House
Maritime Museum at the foot of Leith Walk, before continuing
along Constitution Street to the Shore where you are sure to find
the perfect bar or caf.

Notorious for crime and infamous for its red light district, Leith has moved up in the world since its Trainspotting days.

Address: north

of the city centre on the shores of the Firth of Forth

Getting there: bus to the Foot of the Walk, Constitution Street or
Ocean Terminal (multiple services)
Price: free
ScotlandsPeople Centre (15)

A cosy new name for two very grand buildings Register

House and New Register House that are the user-friendly
repository of the people of Scotlands past. If you are curious
about your Scottish ancestry, the free two-hour taster sessions
are a compelling introduction. You will receive instruction and
assistance, but be warned, its an additive pastime. Further
searches can be carried out for a daily fee, and you can pay for
assisted searches. Take a break in the smart caf or better still,
a wander in the lovely Archivists Garden, cleverly designed in
apparently random patterns to represent the way the brain looks
and memory works. Even if you think have little interest in
genealogy, you will find yourself curiously moved by the
experience.

If you are curious about your Scottish ancestry, the free two-hour taster sessions are a compelling introduction.

Address: 2

Princes Street, EH1 3YY

Getting there: buses to Princes Street (multiple services)
Contact: 0131 314 4300; scotlandspeoplehub.gov.uk
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm. The free two-hour taster
sessions run from 10am and 2pm
Price: free