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24 hours on Folly Beach

24 hours on Folly Beach

‘24 Hours on Folly Beach’

By Andrew J. Whitaker, Grace Beahm Alford, Gavin McIntyre, Henry Taylor, Laura Bilson and Daniel Sarch

FOLLY BEACH — This island draws its name from its once-densely forested coastline, an area known in Old English as a "folly." Such foliage can still be found at the old Coast Guard station at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve. The inlet has a boneyard beach similar to the much larger coast of Botany Bay, just south of Charleston.

Folly Beach had a significant role during the Civil War, occupied by Union troops as a base by which to establish control of Charleston Harbor and retake Fort Sumter.

After the war, the island was basically abandoned.

Fast forward to 1925, when the first pavilion popped up, expanding years later to include a pier, boardwalk and oceanfront hotel.

George Gershwin later spent a summer in a beachfront cabin near DuBose Heyward’s Folly Beach house that Heyward called Follywood while working on the musical "Porgy and Bess."

As the island's popularity continued to grow, a fire destroyed the pier, pavilion and hotel in 1957.

Not long after, Folly Beach was brought back to life with a new pier and 1,700-foot boardwalk, along with the addition of a Ferris wheel and other carnival-like offerings. 

In 1973, Folly Beach became a city.

For the last 50 years, this beach town nicknamed the "Edge of America" has served as a popular destination for Charleston-area locals and tourists alike.

Folly Beach tourism season is from Memorial Day until Labor Day. Just before the end of that season in August, The Post and Courier photo staff spent 24 hours documenting life in this funky beach town. 

 

SATURDAY 


NOON


 

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Bachelorette party at 12:01 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

At noon on Saturday, traffic snakes down Folly Road on its way to the Edge of America. Members of one group from different states sport T-shirts with images of bathing suits as they march up the wooden boardwalk to the ocean. Like other groups on the island this day, they are celebrating a bachelorette party. 

Traffic on Folly Road at 12 P.M. Daniel Sarch/Staff

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Beach fun at 12:44 p.m. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Down the beach, Allove Brown, 2, sinks into the water that fills a 5-gallon bucket partially buried in the sand by her father Tony Brown.


1 P.M.


 A few blocks down the strand, a trio of women — Chandler Bergquist, Amanda Brown and Blake Ryan — read comfortably in their matching inflatables while waves splash upon their feet.

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The beach at 1:07 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

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Sandy feet at 1:57 p.m. Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Having sandy feet is just a way of life on Folly.


2 P.M.


 

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Bert's Market. 1:48 p.m. (top) and 1:51 p.m. (bottom) Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Crowds flock to Bert’s Market, an always-open corner store, to get their midday snacks. James Island locals Millie Allred, 9; Helen Russell, 11; Ruth Russell, 13; and Doc Russell, 9, quickly eat their ice cream cones before the treats melt in their hands. For Millie, it is too late. 

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Washing off at 2:20 p.m. (left). Grace Beahm Alford/Staff

Mr. John's Beach Store at 2:26 p.m. (right). Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff 

Surfers, swimmers and other beachgoers wash off before leaving the beach along 3rd Street.

A few minutes later, Paul Chrysostom checks out customers at his shop, Mr. John’s Beach Store. Paul took over the store in 1989 after his dad, John Chrysostom, died. Paul kept the name in his dad's memory. Paul took over the same year that Hurricane Hugo swept through Folly Beach on its brutal path through the Lowcountry.

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Under the pier at 2:28 p.m. Daniel Sarch/Staff

Back on the beach near the pier, 2-year-old Hampton Hall splashes in shallow water with a grin on his face. Due to the shallow waters and shade provided, many people seek shelter under the pier to play and relax.


3 P.M.


 

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Working on the beach at 3:10 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

In front of the nearby Tides Folly Beach Hotel, a reserved umbrella spot is set aside for Jeanie Engelbach, an interior designer from New York and Charleston who works on her laptop. Behind her is Camp Dale, the spot where Dale Antley plays redneck horseshoes, a game invented on Folly Beach. Dale and his friends play almost every day. 

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Redneck horseshoes at 3:22 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


4 P.M.


 

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High Life house at 4:42 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

At the High Life house on Ashley Avenue, Kevin Hodges, 53, moves one of his many signs out of the way in his rental. “I never thought I’d be able to stay here, maybe someone buys it or even a hurricane will knock it down,” he says. Hodges has been renting here for 15 years. He has had several scares when the owner put the home up for sale but plans to live here just as long as he can.


5 P.M.


 

Aerial view of Folly Beach at 5:19 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


6 P.M.


 As 6 P.M. nears, lifeguards begin to bring in umbrellas and perform other duties before their shift ends.

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Lifeguards at Folly Beach County Park at 6:07 p.m. Laura Bilson/Staff

Sea oats at 6:24 p.m. Laura Bilson/Staff

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"Mama Flo" at 6:09 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Florence O’Donnell, 92, also known as "Mama Flo," laughs with regulars at Planet Follywood, the local bar she owns. Her former employee Amanda Scott kisses her on the cheek before leaving. "Mama Flo," a Folly Beach original, has been heavily involved with the community. 

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Chico Feo at 6:51 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Columbia musician Lola Grace warms up on the stage at Chico Feo about an hour before sunset.

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Beach wedding at 6:58 p.m. Laura Bilson/Staff

Back at the county park, newlyweds Christina Coats and her husband Matthew Coats wash each other's feet during their wedding ceremony.


7 P.M.


 

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Memories on the pier at 7:46 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Clouds roll in around sunset, turning the sky purple, then blue. Randy Reeves leans over the pier remembering the time his son got married beneath where he was standing, just over 10 years ago. 


8 P.M.


Amanda Scott makes her way back to the pier as the sky darkens, before the night comes. “Folly is a bubble and it’s my place. When the waves roll in, all my problems roll out with them into the ocean," she says as she stares out into the deep-blue sea.

After dusk at 8:19 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Fishing on the pier at 8:15 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


9 P.M.


Music starts up just around 9 P.M. at the Sand Dollar. Kevin Vandwaye, a local tattoo artist, plays pool in the back of the bar. This cash-only dive bar has its roots embedded in the community. There is $1 application fee to apply to become a member at this late-night establishment.

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Sand Dollar pool at 9:39 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


10 P.M.


 The Sand Dollar has a Hurricane Hugo line where water reached back in 1989.

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Hugo waterline at 10:11 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Music picks up and Sheron Zawaduk yells “I love this song” as she dances on center stage.

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Sand Dollar dancing at 10:41 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Barefoot dancing at 10:01 p.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


11 P.M.


A short rainstorm arrives on the island. Most everyone is back home for the day and others who stayed are inside the late-night bars getting ready for the night. A group walks down Ashley Avenue, cars zip through puddles on Center Street and a couple kiss in front of the Sand Dollar.

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Center Street at 12:37 a.m. (top left), 12:07 a.m. (top right) and 12:55 a.m. (bottom). Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

SUNDAY


Midnight

Midnight strikes and Wyatt Jowers and Summer Knight light up their cigarettes on the patio of the Bounty Bar off Center Street.

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Porch smoking at 12:40 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


1 A.M.


 

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Last call at 1:14 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Just before last call, Marcia Brown and Heart Bernados are seen through the bar window of Planet Follywood. “Mama Flo” is long gone for the night but will be back early in the morning for their brunch.


2 A.M.


 

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Closing down at 1:51 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

The party has ended and bartenders Lee Hettesheimer and Jessie Bessette clean up before closing the Sand Dollar Social Club. Hettesheimer wants to skate the next morning. 


3 A.M.


It becomes quiet on Folly Beach after the bars close. Marcia Brown and Heart Bernados walk down Ashley Avenue just past Bert’s Market on their way home. Bert’s slogan is: "We may doze but we never close."

Folly Beach police officers wait out front until they get a call while they have their late-night dinner. Just inside, Leigh Riddle also known as “Miss Leigh,” works the night shift. For 15 years she has worked the third shift where she stocks items, serves late-night snacks and works at a slower pace than 12 hours earlier. “I like the energy that goes with this shift and just have fun with it," she says. 

“Miss Leigh” stops, carrying an armful of coffee sleeves, while she greets a group of three younger men. “Hey guys, I’ll be right with you.”

They look at various candies and make their rounds up and down the aisles. They decide on ice cream. She then reads the flavors: banana pudding, birthday cake, cookie dough. They order and walk out to the beach. The stars are bright and the waves clear.

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Red-eye shift 3:31 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Late night snacks at 3:44 a.m. Andrew. J. Whitaker/Staff

It's never too late for a Coney dog. 


4 A.M.


 

The morning sky at 4:06 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff


 5 A.M.


Just before dawn, Cort Stayton sets up cones around the intake ports before filling gas tanks for the day at the Circle K.

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Refuel at 5:51 a.m. Henry Taylor/Staff

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Turtle nest at 6:05 a.m. (left). Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Welcome to Folly Beach at 6:11 a.m. (right). Henry Taylor/Staff


6 A.M.


Several ghost crabs scatter across the dimly lit beach at the Lighthouse Inlet Heritage Preserve. They are looking for food early in the morning. That's a problem for sea turtle nests.

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Ghost crab at 6:27 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

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Turtle count at 6:39 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Volunteers Alice Anderson and Kelly Johnson, along with others, count sea turtle eggs: 62 underdeveloped, 3 dead, 41 hatched.

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Sunrise surf at 6:57 a.m. Henry Taylor/Staff

As the sun rises, a surfer rides a wave at The Washout and a containership enters Charleston harbor. 


7 A.M.


 

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Singing bowls at 7:36 a.m. Gavin McIntyre/Staff

Julie Boles plays singing bowls along the shores of Folly Beach as surfers walk by. She has been coming to the beach every Sunday to bring peace and calm to beachgoers since May. “It’s the smallest things that can have the biggest change”.

Lost Dog Cafe at 7:57 a.m. Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

The smell of chicken and waffles, grits and cinnamon rolls fills the air at Lost Dog Cafe. 


8 A.M.


 

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She's on Edge at 9:02 a.m. (left) and 9:09 a.m. (right). Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

Dozens of surfers participating in the group, She’s On Edge, paddle out into the ocean for a demonstration called Paddle Against The Patriarchy. 


9 A.M.


 

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Church bells at 9:39 a.m. (left). Church steeple at 10:56 a.m. (right). Henry Taylor/Staff


10 A.M.


Bells begin to ring at Folly Beach United Methodist Church. Jim Carney, 75, has been a member and rung the bell at the church for around 60 years. 

Church choir at 10:17 a.m. Henry Taylor/Staff


11 A.M.


Mary Rhodes sings songs of praise. Rhodes, who will turn 99 in September, has attended the church for over 70 years and lives in a small home right next door.

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McKevlin's Surf Shop at 11:35 a.m. Henry Taylor/Staff

After the church service down the road, Karl Lamont examines a surfboard on sale at McKevlin’s Surf Shop.

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Flying dress photo shoot at 11:25 a.m. (top left), 11:33 a.m. (top right), 11:23 a.m. (bottom left) and 11:23 a.m. (bottom right). Andrew J. Whitaker/Staff

An hour before noon Sunday, photographer Kristin Middleton, has a flying dress photo shoot with four models on Folly Beach’s northeast end along the boneyard beach, with Morris Island Lighthouse seen in the distance.


12 P.M.


In celebration of Folly Beach's 50th anniversary, the Folly Association of Business is hosting a 10-day festival with shag dancing on the pier, a classic car show, a 1920s-themed gala and much more. 

The events are planned for Sept. 22 through Oct. 1.

Andrew J. Whitaker is a photojournalist at The Post and Courier. 

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Andrew Whitaker is a staff photojournalist at The Post and Courier. Previously, he's worked at The Southeast Missourian, The Daily Hampshire Gazette, The Hutchinson News, The Saginaw News and The Holland Sentinel.

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