Bir is a town in the eastern end of the Kangra Valley in Himachal Pradesh with a friendly, relaxed Indian population and a large Tibetan (Khampa) community. It is home to several educational institutions, monasteries, and nonprofit organizations (NGOs). It is becoming a popular off-the-beaten-path destination for meditation courses, volunteering, and ecotourism.

Understand

A Stupa at Bir

Bir is a small mountain town in northern Himachal Pradesh with a large, well-established Tibetan community. Set against the backdrop of the Dhauladhar Range of the Indian Himalayas, the town is picturesque, although the rubbish-strewn roadsides and waterways of the Tibetan Colony (down the hill from Bir proper) are an unfortunate contrast to its golden roofed temples, and to the greenery of Upper Bir (Bir Proper) and the surrounding villages. The Tibetan Colony is actually in the village of Chowgan. Bir proper, sometimes referred to as "Indian Bir" or "Upper Bir", is the small market and surrounding farming community located in the foothills above Chowgan.

The founding of Bir: Local accounts indicate that Bir was first settled by immigrants from Bengal around 1600 CE. These families settled in Bir proper. Other groups started migrating to the area in the early 20th century.

The Tibetan Colony: In 1966 the third Neten Chokling (1928-1973), an incarnate lama of the Nyingma lineage of Tibetan Buddhism, brought his family and a small entourage to Bir. With the help of foreign aid Neten Chokling purchased over 200 acres of land and established a Tibetan settlement where 300 Tibetan families were given land to build houses. At this time Chokling Rinpoche also started building in Bir a new Neten monastery and disciples who had followed him into India formed its first sangha. When the third Chokling Rinpoche passed away in 1973, his eldest son, Orgyen Tobgyal Rinpoche (b 1951), assumed responsibility for completing his father’s vision. The fourth Neten Chokling incarnation was born in 1973 in Bhutan and brought to Bir at a young age where the family of the third Chokling took him under their wings. In 2004 full responsibility for Pema Ewam Chögar Gyurme Ling Monastery in Bir was passed to the fourth Neten Chokling. The monastery, now a place of study and practice for over 120 monks, served as the setting for Khyentse Norbu’s 1999 feature film The Cup.

Other Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and monastic colleges in Bir include Palyul Chökhorling Monastery (Nyingma) under the guidance of Rigo Tulku Rinpoche; Bir Dirru Monastery/Bir Sakya Lama Society under the guidance of the 15th Gyalsay Tulku Rinpoche and the 14th Dungyud Rinpoche; Drikung Dozin Theckcho Ling Monastery (Drikung Kagyu) under guidance of Ontul Rinpoche, and Chökyi Lödro College of Dialectics under the directorship of Dzongsar Jamyang Khyentse Rinpoche.

Monks at the Tibetan Colony in Bir

Get in

By plane

• Kangra Airport (DHM ^IATA) at Gaggal near Kangra is the nearest airport to Bir, roughly a two-hour journey. Air India, Alliance Air, and SpiceJet operate daily flights from Delhi.  

By bus

Bir is about four hours from Dharamsala and McLeod Ganj.

• From Dharamsala: There are direct buses to Bir Road/Upper Bir leaving at 6AM & 2PM from Lower Dharamsala. Or you can take a bus to Palampur, then to Baijnath. From Baijnath there are buses every half hour to Upper Bir – for Bir Colony ask them to drop you at Chowgan crossroads, then you have to walk about 1 km. Or get off at Bir Road junction and get a taxi (₹50-60).
• From Delhi: From the Inter-state Bus Terminal (ISBT), take bus to either Baijnath or Bir Road – the latter is closer, but many buses only go as far as Baijnath. There are two overnight buses leaving Delhi. Both depart mid evening and arrive early morning. Lakshmi Holidays also operate a Volvo A/C semi-sleeper bus service from Delhi departing Majnu ka tila at 7:30PM and Karnal Bypass at 7:55PM, arriving in Bir at 7:30AM the next morning. Although the quality of the buses plying the route has improved immensely over the last few years, it is still a tiring journey and certainly not recommended for anyone who is prone to motion sickness.

By train

• Toy Train: There is a morning train from Pathankot to Ahju, which is 3 km from Bir. Trains from Delhi arrive at Pathankot an hour before the toy train leaves. The ride is long, tiring and often crowded but the stunning scenery more than compensates for any inconveniences.
• Express: Overnight train from Delhi. Alight at Pathankot (around 9 to 10 hours). Taxi to Bir costs around ₹3,000 for the four-hour journey. More expensive than the bus, but a definite option for those prone to motion sickness.

By taxi

• This is the most convenient way of getting to Bir from Pathankot (4 hours, ₹3,000) or Dharamsala (2 hours, ₹1000-1300). As it can be difficult to pick up a taxi in Pathankot willing to bring passengers to Bir, it is best to request your hotel or hostel in Bir to send a taxi to meet you at the station. Otherwise, request that they give you a contact number for a driver in Bir. Ensure that you inform the driver whether your train is stopping at Pathankot Junction or Cantonment.
• Taxis from Bir Road (the final destination of most long-distance buses) to the Tibetan Colony or Deer Park should not cost more than ₹60-70.
• Taxis from Upper Bir or the Tibetan Colony to Ghornala (for the Dharmalaya Institute or Ghornala Resort) should cost ₹100 one-way or ₹150 return.

Get around

Taxis are usually available in the Upper Bir bus stand and in the main intersection of the Tibetan colony.

Buses ply the main north-south Bir Road fairly regularly, connecting the Bir Road turnoff from the NH20 (the highway) to Upper Bir. The closest bus stop for the Tibetan Colony is at Chowgan Chowk, on Bir Road about a 10-minute walk east of the colony.

The historical center of Bir is in Upper Bir (Bir proper, sometimes referred to by the Tibetan community as "Indian Bir").

The Bir Tibetan Colony (often simply called "Colony" by locals) is at the west end of the village of Chowgan, about a 20-minute walk (or five-minute taxi) below Upper Bir.

Sherab Ling Monastery is a 50- to 70-minute walk (or 15-minute taxi) from Chowgan, or slightly longer from Upper Bir.

The village of Ghornala, a small, quiet area home to the Dharmalaya Institute (on Dhanaari Hill), Ghornala Resort, a Sikh retreat centre, and a few cottages, is about midway between Bir and Sherab Ling, and slightly to the north. From Upper Bir, it's about a one-hour walk or 15-minute taxi to Ghornala (and slightly longer from Chowgan or the Tibetan Colony).

See

Palpung Monastery

• Chökyi Lödro College of Dialectics (formerly Dzongsar Institute). A centre for higher Buddhist philosophical study with about 600 monks in nearby Chauntra.
• Dharmalaya Institute. An eco-campus for compassionate living, set on a hill with breathtaking views overlooking Bir and the Kangra Valley, offering programs in sustainable living and contemplative practice, and creating green jobs for local villagers. 
• 1 Palpung Sherab Ling. A Karma Kagyü Tibetan Buddhist Monastery located in woodlands between Bir and Baijnath, headed by the 12th Tai Situ Rinpoche and also host of frequent visits from Mingyur Rinpoche. 
• River pools in Upper Bir.
• Tea gardens near the paragliding landing site.

Do

• Attend Buddhist-related activities at Deer Park .
• Paraglide - Bir is well known as a centre for paragliding, and the sport attracts people from all over the world.
• Bungee Jumping is becoming second adventurous activity after Paragliding.

A pilot on a paragliding take-off at Bir-Billing

Learn

• Deer Park Institute (on the old Dzongsar Institute campus). Offers courses and workshops to explore various aspects of Buddhism and other classical Indian wisdom traditions. Most classes are taught in English and are free of charge. Accommodation is available onsite (updated Jan 2018)

• Guna Institute. The institute offers a five-year Tibetan Translators Degree Program under the guidance of Dzigar Kongtrul Rinpoche. (updated Jan 2018)

Buy

• Chowgan/Bir Tibetan Colony: everyday shopping
• Chauntra (east of Bir): basic kitchenware
• Jogindernagar, Baijnath, and Palaumpur: a few pharmacies, hardware stores, shops with decorative items, drugstores, shops with basic domestic appliances. For more choice in clothing and appliances and for garden nurseries go to Palampur.
• Upper Bir: post office, a chemist (pharmacy), and a few basic general stores

Eat

Meals in local cafés and restaurants range between ₹20 and ₹200 per person (2019).

Upper Bir

• Bhawani Guest House, near the west end of Bir serves a wide variety of healthy and delicious food, but order in advance
• Four Tables - Run by an Indo-German who cooks very well. Moved a bit above the town, and likely you'll need a taxi to find it, at least the first time.
• Lhakpa Cafe in the main bazaar of Upper Bir serves tasty veg momos for lunch, but they usually run out around 1PM so get there early.
• Panditji, just west of the main intersection in Upper Bir, makes good samosas and pakoras, and is very gentle and warm.

Tibetan Colony

• Emaho Cafe has changed hands & no longer offers good food - simple "Chinese" food is all they now serve - an institution lost.
• Another possibility is "Friends' Cafe", although their menu promises more variety than they actually can offer.
• Also try Gang-Chen Cafe on the second floor above the bank.
• Hotel Surya serves some of the best Indian meals in the Tibetan Colony and has wi-fi.
• Norling (a.k.a. "Garden Café) serves the best traveler food (pasta, salads, etc.) in the colony.
• There are three hole-in-the-wall joints near the Hotel Surya where you can find good momos, parathas, and simple Indian meals.

Elsewhere

• Ghornala Resort has a very good cook who has traveled extensively (in Ghornala Village, north of the road that goes between Bir and Sherab Ling)
• Sherab Ling Monastery has a simple restaurant with respectable food.
• Joy Restaurant in the nearby town of Palampur serves wide variety of awesome food at reasonable rates.
• The Northern Cafe is a place where you can find a great ambiance, a breath-taking sunset paired with a sip of your favourite brewery. It is located in Bir above the paragliding landing site with a royal view of gigantic Dhauladhars.
• June 16 Café is a small and cosy café with warm vibes gets you perfectly roasted coffee, hot and rich in the tangs on the go.
• Glider’s Pizzeria is located near the landing site in Bir so finding it won’t be problematic. This place can be a little hard on your wallet, they provide specialized continental dishes.
• Vairagi Café is a place having a simple set of menus for breakfast and lunch. If you are travelling solo and north Indian cuisine is what you love then this place is definitely worth going.
• Café Ilaka is located just next to the landing site the café has its own charm as it has beautiful colour schemes and paintings reflecting Bir’s culture.
• Ara Café offers Continental, Italian, Chinese, Himachali, and North Indian cuisines on its menu. Pizza, pasta, tomato basil soup, biryani are some great offerings here.
• Garden Café and Restaurant is one of the oldest and pacific places in Bir. As the name itself suggests the café is set up in a garden amidst greenery offering you both indoor and outdoor sitting where you can have your food with ‘’good vibes only’’.
• Musafir – A Traveller’s Café is away from the crowd in Bir and get welcomed by the auspicious hosts of this café. Musafir is made out of bamboo which obviously is contributing to the environment, making it an eco-friendly cafe.
• Avva's Cafe (opposite Siliver Linings Cafe), ☏ +91 98186 36236. F-W 10AM-9PM. A cool little cafe, specialising in South Indian food, coffee. Fast and friendly service. ₹120-200. (updated May 2022)
• Himalayan Pizza (opposite Paramountains Bir Billing), serves varieties of tossed pizza, Italian Espresso coffee, yummy creamy smoothies, Ice Tea, waffles, fruit salad, burgers, wraps and bakery items and it's near the landing site of Bir Billing Paragliding.

Drink

Coffee

• Bhoomi Cafe, Tibetan Colony (below Zhim Zhim Guesthouse). Daily 9AM-6PM. Made-from-scratch seasonal vegetarian cafe serving wholesome nourishing meals and drinks. Made to order sourdough bread and cakes for little celebrations. Filter coffee. Fresh juices. (updated May 2022)
• June 16 Cafe, Chaugan Road (Near paragliding landing site), ☏ +91 98330 16000. Su-F: 9AM-8:30PM. Sa: 9Am-9:30PM. A cute cafe. Bright and colourful decor. Ground floor a little noisy due to the proximity of the road. Quieter and larger terrace. Excellent coffee and iced drinks. Fantastic desserts. Welcoming service. (updated May 2023)
• Silver Linings, Suja Road (from town, walk past the paragliding ground. The cafe is in a small mud house on the left), ☏ +98059 91915. A very organic cafe with outdoor seating. Excellent espresso based coffees. Serene location. Healthy vegetarian meals. Free wifi and small but good selection of books. (updated Jan 2018)

Sleep

There are quite a few guesthouses and hotels in Upper Bir. Rates range from ₹200 to ₹2000 per night (2019).

The Government of India has classified the Bir Tibetan Colony as a “protected area.” This means any foreigners wishing to stay overnight in the Bir Tibetan Colony must obtain a Protected Area Permit (PAP) before arriving. See (Bir Portal) and (Bir Portal)

• 1 Shiva Guest House, Vill Kotli, Bir-Billing Road (200 m above Govt. Primary School Kotli), ☏ +91 9418054146, +91 9736333133, manu@skycandy.in. Standard airy rooms with attached bathrooms, hot water and LED TVs. Regular & fast food available on order. ₹500. 
• Bhawani Guest House, ☏ +91 1894268025, +91 9857460215, +91 9418015525, bgh.bir@gmail.com. A nice place in Upper Bir with homely environment having nine luxurious rooms with attached bathrooms, 24 hot water, great Indian food on order. ₹300-700 for double bed rooms. 
• 2 Bir Billing Camping, ☏ +91 9882297222. Bir Billing Camping is eco-friendly and developed in a sustainable way. They used bamboo in their camp site to build a common bath and toilets. Bamboo is also used for the bases of the tents to elevate them off the ground and reduce the use of concrete. The tents are safe and insulated from rain water. Camping food is mostly cooked from locally grown vegetables by nearby villagers. Waste water is cleaned in a traditional way, by stone sand recycling, and released to orchid trees. Kitchen waste is divided into recyclable, biodegradable and non-biodegradable. All biodegradable wastes are decomposed and utilized accordingly. (updated Aug 2015)
• Bir Resort Hotel, ☏ +91 1894 268-367, +91 9810685753, birhotel@rediffmail.com. Electric heated showers. Restaurant facilities, 12 bedrooms. ₹400 for double bedrooms. 
• Chokling Guesthouse, Near chokling Monastery, ☏ +91 8894232589, +91 8894112325, chodak_tenzin@yahoo.com. Check-out: noon. Pleasant rooms (16 doubles) with attached bathrooms and solar heated showers. Quiet environment and restaurant facilities. Double room from ₹250. 
• Dharmalaya Institute. Dharmalaya is set on a hillside with breathtaking views over Bir and the Kangra Valley, with accommodation for volunteers and programme/retreat participants in private rooms, private tents, shared dormitories, and shared tents. They also provide vegetarian and vegan meals. By donation. (updated Apr 2019)
• Emaho Guesthouse, ☏ +91 1894 268-197, +91 9816212678. All rooms have attached bath. ₹220 for double bed room. 
• Hotel Surya Classic (Surya), chougan bir baijnath, ☏ +91 9418046580, hotelsuryaclassic@gmail.com. A nice place with 14 rooms with 24-hour hot water and Wi-Fi in every corner of the hotel. ₹700. 
• 3 Palden Guesthouse. Electric heated showers. Nice hostess and husband. Very clean. Fast food joint also with Wi-Fi facility. R₹250 for double bed room, ₹200 for single bed room. (updated Aug 2015)
• Zhim Zhim Guesthouse (on the main street - towards paragliding side), ☏ +91889 48210. Simple, modern and stylish rooms. Hot water. Gated parking. Restaurant. Friendly and helpful staff. ₹700 to ₹1,000. (updated Feb 2018)
• 4 Shivirama Camping Ground, Plot no 505, Village Gharnala, ☏ +91 9599518830, sales@shivirama.com. Check-in: Flexible, check-out: 1000 hrs. Luxury camp in the hills of Bir. (updated May 2018)
• 5 Ramsail Villa Hotel, Bir-Billing Rd (on Bir Landing Site), ☏ +91 8679347146, info@ramsailvilla.com. Spacious and clean rooms with attached bathrooms. Mountain view. Complimentary breakfast. Free Wi-Fi. 24/7 hot water. Hygienic kitchen From ₹2300. (updated Aug 2019)
• Hotel Sagarmatha, Choughan, Bir-Billing Rd (near Choughan Chowk), ☏ +91 6230776067, thesolitudestays@gmail.com. A chain hotel with modern spacious rooms and beautiful views from the balcony. (updated Sep 2022)
• TheSkyVillage (Bir Billing), The Sky Village (A Unit of Ishairah Farms) Billings (H.P) Distt. Kangra, ☏ +91 9736333330, gagan@theskyvillage.com. Services provided include paragliding, camping and trekking. There is an attached washroom in the camps at Bir Billing. (updated Nov 2022)
• 6 Para Valley Home Stay (Paramountains), Chaugan, Palampur, Himachal Pradesh 176077. Check-in: any time, check-out: noon. You can park your vehicle here. In this mountain village area, enjoy the luxurious room. Please keep the environment friendly. Food is available on order. Private parties are not permitted, and the house should be treated with care. ₹999. (updated Jun 2023)

Stay healthy

The water in Bir is uncommonly clean. it comes from a spring in the mountains above any village, it's usually drinkable except during the monsoon when the groundwater can pollute the system, but it's wise to boil or filter it year-round just in case. Check the date on the bottles of soft drinks in all places, including shops.

• Acupuncture & traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) from Dr. Norbu, near the main intersection in the Tibetan colony. Also does cupping and moxabustion. Clinic open M-Sa 10AM-1PM (more or less). Tel: +91 98823.37181. Very good with sprains & back pain.
• Bhawani Panchkarma Centre: Holistic Ayurvedic Treatment centre providing herbal treatment and various rejuvenating packages Rediscover your own unique identity with Ayurveda contact Dr Manan Soni Ayurvedacharya +91 9857460215 9459203257 email: bhawaniayurveda@gmail.com
• Government doctor at crossroad to Chauntra.
• Homeopathic clinic
• Men-Tsee-Khang: traditional Tibetan herbal medicine.
• Tibetan government clinic: Allopathic medicine, including low-cost vaccinations (e.g. Hepatitis B).
• Veterinary clinic (extremely cheap)
• Western medical clinic (low-price vaccinations, e.g. rabies, tetanus), Upper Bir.

Go next

• Dharamsala and McLeodGanj, the seat of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, are two-and-a-half to three hours from Bir.
• Rewalsar (Tsopema). A town on a sacred lake associated with Guru Rinpoche. Around two and a half hours from Bir
• Shiva Temple – Located in nearby Baijnath and dating from 1204 CE, the temple is a beautiful example of the Nagara style of early medieval North Indian temple architecture. The temple is dedicated to Shiva as Vaidyanath, ‘the Lord of Physicians’. Said to be the location of one of the 12 jyotirlingas.
• Tashijong – another Tibetan settlement with a lay community of about 400 people and a Drukpa Kagyu monastery (established by the 8th Khamtrul Rinpoche) with about 140 monks near Palampur.