Vladyslav "Slava" Oleksandrovych Terzyul (Ukrainian: Владислав Олександрович Терзиул; 18 June 1953 in Artyom, Primorsky Krai, Soviet Union – 17 May 2004, Makalu), was a Ukrainian alpinist.
Vladyslav Terzyul | |
|---|---|
| Born | June 16, 1953 |
| Died | May 17, 2004 (aged 50) |
| Occupation | alpinist |
| Years active | 1992-2004 |
| Children | Julia Terzyul |
| Honours | Order For Courage 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class |
Terzyul was known for his alpine-style ascents, and without using bottled oxygen.[1]
He is said to be one of the few people to have climbed all 14 of the eight-thousanders[2][3] and the first Ukrainian ever to do so. This claim is disputed as he reached he false summits on both Shishapangma (8027m) and Broad Peak, summitting at Shishapangma Central (8013m) and the Forehead (8028m) respectively.[4]
The Italian Messner managed to climb the highest points of the planet. And we, Ukrainians, can't we?! We can do it without the use of oxygen!
— Vladislav Terzyul, https://www.gorgany.com/pro/terzyul/
On May 17, 2004, Terzyul and American Jay Sieger summitted Makalu together via the west ridge, said to be one of the hardest routes of ascent up the mountain and one of the least summited.[5] As they began their descent, Sieger died when his head struck rocks at an altitude of about 8,300 meters.[6] Terzyul was lost on descent from the summit. The cause of his death is unknown and his body has not been found.[6]
Eight-thousanders
edit- 1993 – Kanchenjunga, east ridge, International Expedition
- 1994 – K2, Abruzzi route, Ukrainian Expedition/Odessa Alpine Club
- 1995 – Broad Peak Forepeak, west edge and north ridge, International Expedition
- 1996 – Gasherbrum II, classic route, International Expedition
- 1996 – Annapurna, northwest ridge, new route, Polish International Expedition
- 1997 – Nanga Parbat, 1997, Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition
- 1999 – Everest, classic route from the north, Ukrainian National Expedition
- 2000 – Shishapangma Central, classic route. Ukrainian National Expedition
- 2000 – Cho Oyu, classic route, solo
- 2001 – Manaslu, southeast ridge, new route, Ukrainian National Expedition
- 2002 – Lhotse, Odessa Alpclub expedition
- 2002 – Dhaulagiri
- 2003 – Gasherbrum I
- 2004 – Makalu, west ridge, died during the descent.[7]
Memorials
editTerzyul's accomplishments have had particular resonance in Ukraine.
In 2010, the Ukrainian expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010", led by Valentin Simonenko, set out to climb Makalu in Terzyul's memory.[8] The team summitted the mountain on May 23, without the use of oxygen or porters.[9]
His mountaineering feats inspired Ukrainian artist Andryi Shmyrin to develop a series of large scale paintings, of the world's highest peaks in his memory. In 2018, Shmyrin and Kiev's Lera Litvinova Gallery exhibited 14 eight-thousanders dedicated to Terzyul's memory.[10]
Terzyul14 Project
editIn 2021, Ukrainian-American climber Yulia Zi, set out to climb Broad Peak in Terzyul's memory after learning he did not reach the main summit of this mountain by mistake.[11] Her climb became part of the Terzyul14 Project, a mixed media project dedicated to raising awareness about Terzyul's accomplishments. Zi ultimately had to abandon her summit attempt on Broad Peak at 7,500 meters due to avalanche risk.[12]
Other aspects of the project included an awareness campaign, around the hashtag #terzyul14, a book translation and a documentary film project by Director Iryna Pravylo and Right Time Studios.[13]
References
edit- ^ "Владислав Терзиул: штрихи до портрету". Gorgany PRO (in Ukrainian). 2022-01-10. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ Description and photos of all the eight-thousander ascents
- ^ Russianclimb, Terzyul
- ^ TranquilKilimanjaro (2024-03-31). "Vladislav Terzyul, a renowned Ukrainian alpinist celebrated". Tranquil Kilimanjaro. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ "CIS teams climb new ground in Nepal". www.thebmc.co.uk. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ a b "AAC Publications - Climbing Fatalities in Nepal". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ EverestNews, Sad results on Makalu: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu Update
- ^ "Four or more challenges on Makalu / All news / News / Аll projects of 7 Summits Club". 7summitsclub.com. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ "Ukrainian National expedition "Ukraine – Makalu 2010" in brief / English. Adventure / Mountain.RU". www.mountain.ru. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ "Large-scale exhibition by Andryi Shmyrin". Arthive. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ Benavides, Angela (2021-07-15). "Broad Peak & Gasherbrums Summit Update » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ "Брод-пік: проєкт Terzyul14". Gorgany PRO (in Ukrainian). 2021-08-18. Retrieved 2024-06-19.
- ^ "Terzyul14 Biographical Documentary". Nova Ukraine. 2022-01-25. Retrieved 2024-06-19.