Amid the rubble of postwar Italy, the industrial gas pipes that were powering the country’s rebuilding represented renewal and hope. Their ergonomic shape and symbolism proved inspirational to Bulgari. In the Forties it came up with its first piece of Tubogas jewellery — a corrugated band of gold that coiled around wrists or necks. It has since become one of Bulgari’s signature designs and this autumn, it is launching a capsule collection of 16 pieces, including a watch and a choker.
“What appears to be a modern and relatively plain design hides a high level of craftsmanship and complexity,” says creative director Lucia Silvestri. “Tubogas wraps around without soldering, and adding gems or embellishments is a delicate feat.”
The design was an instant success when it launched in the Forties and was popular with the jet set in the Seventies. Bold, flexible and comfortable to wear, the Tubogas collection ticked all the boxes for a new generation of ambitious women, including the Italian actress Gina Lollobrigida and the American model and actress Marisa Berenson.
Tubogas chains, single or stacked, were mainly used to frame ancient coins in the signature Monete collection or for Serpenti watches. The new collection offers novel interpretations of these designs. Diamond-studded geometric patterns ramp up the glamour of Tubogas chains in yellow gold and mixed-colour gold. Chokers are embellished with emerald-cut stones — rubellite, tanzanite or tourmaline — surrounded by inset semi-precious stones and diamonds.
“The Tubogas technique offers a versatile way to explore new designs, whether it is the matching of various gold finishes, the introduction of flexible steel or enrichment with coloured gems,” Silvestri says.
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Among the new additions to the Tubogas range, there is also a watch. The round dial features two mirroring Bulgari logos, and the bracelet is not the classic Tubogas succession of logs. Instead, it is crafted from three ropes of twisted yellow, white and rose gold. It shows how Bulgari can turn a vintage-looking piece into a refreshingly modern creation.
The star of the collection is the Tubogas Black Eagle necklace, a multi-layered collar-style choker made from steel and white gold with sleek, black-coated bands fanning out from the top. Vertical strips of round-cut diamonds glint through this head-turning piece. It is the epitome of high-voltage glamour and would easily steal the spotlight on any red carpet. Has Bulgari ambassador Zendaya already bookmarked it for a special occasion? The design with humble origins certainly embodies an effervescent spirit of renewal.
