As I step out into the rainy streets of Shin-Okubo, Tokyo’s vibrant Koreatown, one stop from Shinjuku, a sense of anticipation fills the damp air. This bustling neighbourhood, shaped by the Korean community since the 1980s, is the backdrop for a long-awaited reunion with my younger brother, Paing. I wave to him as he approaches and we embrace — our first hug in six years.
As Burmese brothers, we’re no strangers to the plot twists life can throw at you. Political upheaval in our homeland sent us packing to opposite corners of the globe — me to the UK in 2010, aged 17, and Paing to the US for college a few years later. We had a quick reunion in London for my graduation in 2017, but since then life (and a global pandemic) has thwarted our plans to reconnect.
Now, six years after our last meaningful encounter, he is living in Tokyo, pursuing his master’s degree on a scholarship at Keio University — one of Japan’s oldest private universities, with distinguished alumni including the author Haruki Murakami. And here I am, in this little Seoul of Tokyo, ready to reconnect with my brother.
With a week-long stay ahead of us, including my brother’s birthday, I couldn’t ask for a better local guide to show me around, even if his Japanese isn’t quite fluent yet.
When we meet we don’t get all mushy and emotional. No, we signify our brotherly love through food. In our culture it’s the ultimate expression of affection. Our mother, like countless other Asian mums, always greeted us with “Have you eaten?” rather than “How are you?” Who needs feelings when you have a full stomach? And there’s nowhere better than Japan to excite your taste buds. From hole-in-the-wall ramen joints to swanky sushi bars, it has it all — and the Japanese seem to treat every dish like a masterpiece.
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Staying in Koreatown had foodie perks. Tonchang, a Korean barbecue joint that’s all about grilled pork belly, was a standout. The man behind the restaurant’s recent glow-up is Jae Won Koo, a young gun who traded in his London College of Fashion menswear studies for a chance to revamp the family business. As he sliced up succulent pork belly wearing a Gucci suit, he regaled me with tales of his UK stint, which clearly left a mark. The restaurant’s new look is a cheeky tribute to a Brick Lane bagel shop that captured his heart … and stomach (mains from £9; instagram.com/tonchang_okubo).
Another standout dining experience is at Robata Honten, a century-old izakaya (a bar with food) in the swanky Ginza neighbourhood. Despite its posh surroundings, the bar is full of artistic charm, with a handwritten note from the renowned poet Octavio Paz proudly displayed on the wall. No English menu? No problem. The staff are pros at deciphering what we are getting at and we simply nod along to their suggestions (mains from £5).
One evening Kinga Ciupak, a Japanese studies graduate from Poland who works as a guide here, takes us on a tour of her favourite Shinjuku watering holes. First up is Hanbey, a cheap, casual izakaya chain decked out in vintage Japanese posters and memorabilia. While I’m not entirely sold on the raw cabbage snack served with salt and soy sauce, it’s a refreshing change from the usual salted peanuts (snacks from 50p; hanbey.com).
Takoyaki, on the other hand, is a snack I can get behind. These savoury balls of battered octopus are the perfect complement to a cold beer or, in my case, a highball. The highball, a simple yet satisfying blend of whisky and soda, has become my go-to drink in Japan. It’s light, refreshing and pairs well with just about any meal you can throw at it.
Next, we hit up Robata sho, an izakaya specialising in fireside robatayaki cooking, where meat, seafood, and veggies are grilled over hot charcoal. The Japanese tend to prefer their chicken on the pinker side, so you might want to stick to the seafood and veggie options. I really enjoyed the yaki onigiri, a grilled rice ball topped with butter that’s dramatically scorched with a piece of hot charcoal right at your table (small plates from £1.50; robata-sho-shinjuku.com).
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If you end up sampling the pink chicken, it might be wise to offer a prayer for your wellbeing at the nearby Hanazono Shrine. Despite its proximity to Shinjuku’s neon-lit streets, it exudes tranquillity and serenity. One intriguing feature, common to most shrines, is the strategically angled mirror in the main hall, which allows worshippers to see their own reflection as they pray, symbolising the divine within.
Having grown up in a Buddhist household in Myanmar, my brother and I are familiar with the peaceful atmosphere of shrines and temples. We even briefly traded our worldly possessions, aged 14, to live in a monastery for a month as monks. I can’t help but think of our parents’ reaction to seeing us now, reconnecting in Tokyo. They might shake their heads at some of our antics, but I’m sure they’d be pleased to know we’re strengthening our bond, if wistful at not being here to share in the moment.
If you’re planning on visiting some of Tokyo’s more famous shrines and temples, such as the ever-popular Sensoji, go early. After 9.30am you’ll be battling hordes of tourists, many decked out in rented kimonos and wielding selfie sticks like samurai swords. It’s like seeking spiritual solace amid a frenzied carnival — futile. Instead we go to the Samurai Ninja Museum Tokyo, in Asakusa, a trove of Edo-period armour and weapons just a shuriken’s throw from Sensoji (£15.50; mai-ko.com).
Our group tour guide is a charming gent decked out in full ninja regalia, as seen on TV. However, he lets us in on a little secret: real ninjas actually rocked the farmer look, not the get-up we’ve come to expect. The entry fee grants us access to a shuriken (throwing star) showdown, so at the end of the tour, we channel our inner samurai by getting kitted up in not-so-authentic armour for a photo op. Not to toot my own horn, but I nail a bullseye on my first shuriken chuck — looks like all those hours playing Fruit Ninja weren’t a waste of time after all.
A two-minute walk from Asakusa station is the Asakusa Underground Mall. Built in 1955, it’s Japan’s oldest subterranean shopping street and provides a glimpse of the post-Second World War Showa era, which marked Japan’s economic rise. This strip, with its unchanged barbershop, psychic parlour and vintage shops, captures the essence of that transformative period. The (occasionally leaking) bare pipes on the ceiling only add to the nostalgia.
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On my brother’s birthday we treat ourselves to a visit to the Mori Art Museum, a contemporary art haven in Roppongi’s entertainment district, which not only hosts cutting-edge international exhibitions but also has a jaw-dropping panoramic view of the city. It doesn’t have a permanent collection, but instead hosts temporary exhibitions of works by contemporary artists with a focus on Japan (£7.70; mori.art.museum).
• 16 of the best hotels in Tokyo
• Best things to do in Tokyo
The exhibition we see, Our Ecology: Toward a Planetary Living, is a response to the environmental crisis. The Berlin-based Swedish artist Nina Canell’s Muscle Memory, an immersive installation with seven tonnes of crushed seashells blanketing the gallery floor, strikes a chord with me. Encouraged by the museum staff to interact with the piece, we leap and bound through the shells. As they crunch beneath our feet, I can’t help but think about my own family’s scattered state.
With my folks back in Myanmar, me in the UK and my brother carving out a life in Japan, it’s been more than a decade since we were all together. As the shells crumble with each step, I catch myself wondering if we’ll ever find our way back to each other, or if we are destined to remain adrift, connected only by the threads of memory and shared history.
As I silently grapple with these thoughts, we arrive at our next destination. I welcome the change of pace as we explore Shimokitazawa, the hipster neighbourhood known for its vintage clothing shops, ranging from the delightfully affordable to the incredibly overpriced. Between the racks of retro threads we find all sorts of quirky gift shops, selling everything from hand-crafted ceramics of cute cats to toe socks.
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We manage to snag my brother a trench coat for less than £20 that strikes a balance between detective chic and mysterious stranger. As we navigate the neon-lit streets of Shimokitazawa in search of our next meal, I can’t help but feel that everything is right in the world. Sure, our family might be scattered across the globe and the future might be uncertain, but in that moment the two of us are together, and that’s enough.
Min Sett Hein travelled independently but was a guest, for one night, of Inside Japan. Thirteen nights’ B&B on Inside Japan’s Gastronomic Adventure from £3,580pp, including transport, some private guiding and food experiences (insidejapantours.com). Fly to Tokyo
Travels in Tokyo
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More hotels in Tokyo
By Rebecca Hallett
ONE@Tokyo
A few minutes’ walk from the Tokyo Skytree observation tower, and just across the river from the historic Asakusa district, this 142-room hotel was designed by the superstar architect Kengo Kuma in 2017 — he even had a hand in the staff uniform. Like most hotels in Tokyo, the rooms tend to be compact, but the well-considered layouts and minimalist, industrial-style decor stop them feeling cramped. Some of the larger rooms and suites have spectacular Skytree views, as does the roof terrace bar.
Details Room-only doubles from £65 (onetokyo.com)
OMO3 Tokyo Akasaka
A fresh, modern take on the budget-friendly business hotel, this one opened in 2022. Rooms are fairly small, but the efficient use of space and light and their airy style make them feel much larger. The neighbourhood is full of izakaya bars and restaurants and close to sites such as Hie Shrine and the National Diet (government) building. OMO’s friendly staff can give you personal tips on where to go, and lead casual walking tours of the area.
Details Room-only doubles from £75 (hoshinoresorts.com)
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Muji Hotel Ginza
Living up to its name, the Muji Hotel, which opened in 2019, is kitted out floor to ceiling with products from the iconic Japanese brand. The rooms actually feel homely, with none of those usual hotel frustrations like poorly located plug sockets, or nowhere to open your suitcase. The attached restaurant and café-bar are worth visiting even in the midst of glitzy Ginza, and the brand’s huge flagship store is right below the hotel.
Details Room-only doubles from £240 (hotel.muji.com)
The Strings by InterContinental Tokyo
A luxurious, well-established hotel right by the transport hub of Shinagawa, the Strings gives you easy access to Haneda airport and the bullet train line. Atop one of the bustling district’s skyscrapers, it gives glorious views of bayside Tokyo from the rooms’ picture windows. The muted lighting design and restrained decor are chic without feeling cold, and service is attentive but never overbearing. The food is consistently good, but the Kazane teppanyaki restaurant is something special.
Details Room-only doubles from £265 (intercontinental-strings.jp)
Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park
Somewhat miraculously, given its busy Shibuya location, the 20-room Trunk(Hotel), which opened in 2023, more than delivers on its “urban recharge” ethos. The decor leans towards earthy concrete and natural fibres, and from the infinity pool to the pizzeria (one of Tokyo’s best) the facilities are all about laid-back luxury. The service is never stiff or formal, but is unwaveringly helpful. For the full effect, book a room overlooking the spreading green of Yoyogi Park rather than the city streets.
Details Room-only doubles from £340 (yoyogipark.trunk-hotel.com)
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