Chanel: a timeless classic: the company has built an empire on that little bottle of No. 5.

IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY, Chanel is best known for its long-standing classic fragrance, No. 5, which globally continues to command the pole position after decades on the market. Yet Chanel is much more than a fragrance house and is at the forefront of cosmetics development within the prestige beauty sector.

According to Euromonitor, sales of the privately-owned French company Chanel, which also includes the Bourjois cosmetics brand, were estimated to total more than $1.4 billion in 2001, an increase of 7% compared to 2000. Its fragrance business is dominated by No. 5, Allure, Allure for Men and the newest addition Coco Mademoiselle, and is valued at $697 million. Sales of color cosmetics adds another $680 million, and the balance of sales comes from skin care products, worth $90 million, according to Euromonitor.

Chanel has a strong travel retail business and together with French brands Lancome and Christian Dior account for more than half the sales of makeup in this channel. Despite the difficulties encountered by travel retail post-September 11, makeup was the only category to record sales growth, rising 3.2% over 2000 and increasing its share of the $4.3 billion world beauty market to 15.2%, versus 14.5% a year earlier, according to the Travel Retail Perfumery Report, by Beauty & Business and Generation AB. Precision is Chanel's advanced skin treatment range, which was developed by CE.R.I.E.S., Chanel's Epidermal and Sensory Research and Investigation Centre. Research by CE.R.I.E.S., in collaboration with the University of Vienna, has led to the discovery of a key contributor to skin radiance called V.E.G.F., or Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor.

V.E.G.F. is a protein that occurs naturally in the skin and encourages the growth of blood vessels by promoting exchanges between the dermis and the epidermis. It is a key factor in the maintenance of the capillary networks. Since nutrients are transported by the blood vessels, V.E.G.F. plays a vital role in ensuring the regularity and effectiveness of blood flow, essential for the maintenance of healthy and attractive-looking skin.

A Unique Complex for Skin Care

This discovery has resulted in the development of an exclusive complex, Pulsator, which is incorporated in Chanel's newest product called Eclat Originel, a radiance-revealing serum. Chanel researchers tested some 43 ingredients that are capable of influencing the production of V.E.G.F. and the substance that proved most effective was an extract of the Japanese shiitake mushroom. The mushroom contains important molecules including lentinan, a polysaccharide which has a powerful effect on the synthesis of V.E.G.F. and is central to the Pulsator complex to help maximize the skin's radiance and youthfulness.

Further research by CE.R.I.E.S. has resulted in a precise understanding of the eye zone, which is the first area to show the signs of aging. The Chanel laboratories have developed an ultra-targeted formula called Precision Age Delay Eye, which combines extract, of horse chestnut with a marine polysaccharide (a powerful inhibitor of gelatinase A, an enzyme said to play a key role in the aging of the eye area), and a lipopeptide, also used in the Age Delay serum for the face. Horse chestnut has a decongestant, draining and stimulating effect on the microcirculation, restoring the balance of all the functions and thereby reducing dark circles and puffiness. The lipopeptide is twice as powerful as vitamin C, which stimulates fibroblast activity and boosts collagen synthethis to rebuild the thickness of the skin.

The Latest in Makeup

Chanel pioneered the use of optical pigments in makeup and has continued in its quest for innovation in this area.

Vitalumiere is Chanel's newest foundation which utilizes a unique combination of superior pigments and active ingredients. The formulation contains "energizing," moisturizing and protective ingredients combined with the newest generation of luminescing amino acid-coated pigments. It restores the youthful appearance of the skin, softens fine lines and leaves the skin feeling comfortable throughout the day. Vitalumiere comes in two oil-free textures that glide onto the skin thanks to a new emulsifying ingredient which contains a high percentage of water.

Bourjois has always been known for its strength in color, having built a strong fashion-led business particularly in eyes, lips and blushers. At the beginning of 2002, Bourjois boosted its position in face makeup with a range of technically superior products designed to appeal to its young audience.

Le Nu Vous Va si Bien is described as a "second skin" foundation, which acts according to the skin's needs. Its hydrating non-comedogenic formulation contains a combination of glycerol and extracts of sweet almond, which leaves a matte finish due to an active sebo-regulator and absorbant micro particles.

More New Products from Bourjois

En toute Discretion is an ultra-natural stick foundation which covers the skin in a smooth powdery veil. The dermatologically tested formula contains vitamin E for its protective effects agains free radicals and coated pigments for a long-lasting effect. Libre comme L'Air is a loose powder in a brush applicator which leaves a matte veil on the face. The matte finish is achieved by the inclusion of nylon powder and kaolin. In addition, Bourjois has launched single application capsules of foundation called Bulles d'Eclat, the first in the mass market, which have light reflective pigments for skin radiance.

Rouge Connection is a new lipstick introduced by Bourjois in October 2002. It combines a carefully selected and measured mix of different pigments and mother-of-pearl that play with the light. Iridescent, metallic, shimmering, sparkling or two-tone effects are provided in five lipsticks. The light formula is smooth and easy to apply due to a combination of waxes and vegetable oils (coco and jojoba) and a derivative of vitamin E known for its anti-radical action.

Next year's In-Cosmetics show takes place on April 1-3 at Porte de Versailles in Paris. At the show, In-Cosmetics is introducing an exciting new feature entitled Vision, designed to inform and inspire visitors about the future of cosmetics.

For more information visit: www.in-cosmetics.com

Article Details

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Author:	Matthews, Imogen
Publication:	Household & Personal Products Industry
Date:	Dec 1, 2002
Words:	1010
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