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56. APPLES, Compôte of (Soyer’s Recipe,—a
Dessert Dish).
Ingredients.—6 ripe apples, 1 lemon, ½ lb. of lump sugar, ½ pint
of water. Mode.—Select the apples of a moderate size, peel them,
cut them in halves, remove the cores, and rub each piece over with
a little lemon. Put the sugar and water together into a lined
saucepan, and let them boil until forming a thickish syrup, when lay
in the apples with the rind of the lemon cut thin, and the juice of the
same. Let the apples simmer till tender; then take them out very
carefully, drain them on a sieve, and reduce the syrup by boiling it
quickly for a few minutes. When both are cold, arrange the apples
neatly on a glass dish, pour over the syrup, and garnish with strips
of green angelica or candied citron. Smaller apples may be dressed
in the same manner: they should not be divided in half, but peeled,
and the cores pushed out with a vegetable-cutter. Time.—10
minutes to boil the sugar and water together; from 20 to 30 minutes
to simmer the apples. Average cost, 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable from August to March.
COMPÔTE OF APPLES.
APPLES, Flanc of; or Apples in a raised Crust.
(Sweet Entremets.)
Ingredients.—¾ lb. of short crust, 9 moderate-sized apples, the
rind and juice of ½ lemon, ½ lb. of white sugar, ¾ pint of water, a
few strips of candied citron. Mode.—Make a plain stiff short crust,
roll it out to the thickness of ½ inch, and butter an oval mould; line
it with the crust, and press it carefully all round the sides, to obtain
the form of the mould, but be particular not to break the paste.
Pinch the part that just rises above the mould with the paste-
57. pincers, and fill the case with flour; bake it for about ¾ hour; then
take it out of the oven, remove the flour, put the case back in the
oven for another ¼ hour, and do not allow it to get scorched. It is
now ready for the apples, which should be prepared in the following
manner: peel, and take out the cores with a small knife, or a scoop
for the purpose, without dividing the apples; put them into a small
lined saucepan, just capable of holding them, with sugar, water,
lemon-juice and rind, in the above proportion. Simmer them very
gently until tender; then take out the apples, let them cool, arrange
them in the flanc or case, and boil down the syrup until reduced to a
thick jelly; pour it over the apples, and garnish with a few slices of
candied citron.
A more simple flanc may be made by rolling out the paste, cutting
the bottom of a round or oval shape, and then a narrow strip for the
sides: these should be stuck on with the white of an egg to the
bottom piece, and the flanc then filled with raw fruit, with sufficient
sugar to sweeten it nicely. It will not require so long baking as in a
mould; but the crust must be made everywhere of an equal
thickness, and so perfectly joined that the juice does not escape.
This dish may also be served hot, and should be garnished in the
same manner, or a little melted apricot jam may be poured over the
apples, which very much improves their flavour. Time.—Altogether, 1
hour to bake the flanc; from 30 to 40 minutes to stew the apples
very gently. Average cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-
dish. Seasonable from August to March.
APPLES, Ginger (a pretty Supper or Dessert
Dish).
Ingredients.—1½ oz. of whole ginger, ¼ pint of whiskey, 3 lbs. of
apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons. Mode.—Bruise
the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over sufficient whiskey to
cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut the apples into thin
58. slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar and the lemon-
juice, which should be strained; and simmer all together very gently
until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve cold, and
garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved
ginger. Time.—3 days to soak the ginger; about ¾ hour to simmer
the apples very gently. Average cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 dishes.
Seasonable from August to March.
APPLES Iced, or Apple Hedgehog.
Ingredients.—About 3 dozen good boiling apples, 1 lb. of sugar,
½ pint of water, the rind of ½ lemon minced very fine, the whites of
2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar, a few sweet almonds.
Mode.—Peel and core a dozen of the apples without dividing them,
and stew them very gently in a lined saucepan with ½ lb. of the
sugar and ½ pint of water, and when tender lift them carefully on to
a dish. Have ready the remainder of the apples, pared, cored, and
cut into thin slices; put them into the same syrup with the other ½
lb. of sugar, the lemon-peel, and boil gently until they are reduced to
a marmalade; keeping them stirred, to prevent them from burning.
Cover the bottom of the dish with some of the marmalade, and over
that a layer of the stewed apples, in the insides of which, and
between each, place some of the marmalade; then place another
layer of apples, and fill up the cavities with marmalade as before,
forming the whole into a raised oval shape. Whip the whites of the
eggs to a stiff froth, mix with them the pounded sugar, and cover
the apples very smoothly all over with the icing; blanch and cut each
almond into 4 or 5 strips; place these strips at equal distances over
the icing, sticking up; strew over a little rough pounded sugar, and
put the dish in a very slow oven, to colour the almonds, and so allow
the apples to get warm through. This entremets may also be served
cold, and makes a pretty supper-dish. Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes
to stew the apples. Average cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6
persons. Seasonable from August to March.
59. APPLES in Red Jelly (a pretty Supper Dish).
Ingredients.—6 good-sized apples, 12 cloves, 6 oz. of pounded
sugar, 1 lemon, 2 teacupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of gelatine, a
few drops of prepared cochineal. Mode.—Choose rather large
apples; peel them and take out the cores, either with a scoop or a
small silver knife, and put into each apple 2 cloves and as much
sifted sugar as they will hold. Place them, without touching each
other, in a large pie-dish; add more white sugar, the juice of 1
lemon, and 2 teacupfuls of water. Bake in the oven, with a dish over
them, until they are done. Look at them frequently, and, as each
apple is cooked, place it in a glass dish. They must not be left in the
oven after they are done, or they will break, and so would spoil the
appearance of the dish. When the apples are neatly arranged in the
dish without touching each other, strain the liquor in which they
have been stewing into a lined saucepan; add to it the rind of the
lemon, and a tablespoonful of gelatine which has been previously
dissolved in cold water, and, if not sweet, a little more sugar, and 6
cloves. Boil till quite clear; colour with a few drops of prepared
cochineal, and strain the jelly through a double muslin into a jug; let
it cool a little; then pour it into the dish round the apples. When
quite cold, garnish the tops of the apples with a bright-coloured
marmalade, jelly, or the white of an egg beaten to a strong froth,
with a little sifted sugar. Time.—From 30 to 50 minutes to bake the
apples. Average cost, 1s., with the garnishing. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable from August to March.
APPLES, to preserve, in Quarters (in imitation
of Ginger).
Ingredients.—To every lb. of apples allow ¾ lb. of sugar, 1½ oz.
of the best white ginger; 1 oz. of ginger to every ½ pint of water.
Mode.—Peel, core, and quarter the apples, and put the fruit, sugar,
and ginger in layers into a wide-mouthed jar, and let them remain
for 2 days; then infuse 1 oz. of ginger in ½ pint of boiling water, and
60. cover it closely, and let it remain for 1 day: this quantity of ginger
and water is for 3 lbs. of apples, with the other ingredients in
proportion. Put the apples, &c., into a preserving-pan with the water
strained from the ginger, and boil till the apples look clear and the
syrup is rich, which will be in about an hour. The rind of a lemon
may be added just before the apples have finished boiling; and great
care must be taken not to break the pieces of apple in putting them
into the jars. Serve on glass dishes for dessert. Time.—2 days for
the apples to remain in the jar with sugar, &c.; 1 day to infuse the
ginger; about 1 hour to boil the apples. Average cost, for 3 lbs. of
apples, with the other ingredients in proportion, 2s. 3d. Sufficient.—
3 lbs. should fill 3 moderate-sized jars. Seasonable.—This should be
made in September, October, or November.
APPLES, Stewed, and Custard (a pretty Dish
for a Juvenile Supper).
Ingredients.—7 good-sized apples, the rind of ½ lemon or 4
cloves, ½ lb. of sugar, ¾ pint of water, ½ pint of custard. Mode.—
Pare and take out the cores of the apples, without dividing them,
and, if possible, leave the stalks on; boil the sugar and water
together for 10 minutes; then put in the apples with the lemon-rind
or cloves, whichever flavour may be preferred, and simmer gently
until they are tender, taking care not to let them break. Dish them
neatly on a glass dish, reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly for a
few minutes, let it cool a little; then pour it over the apples. Have
ready quite ½ pint of custard made by the recipe for Boiled Custard;
pour it round, but not over, the apples when they are quite cold, and
the dish is ready for table. A few almonds blanched and cut into
strips, and stuck in the apples, would improve their appearance.
Time.—From 20 to 30 minutes to stew the apples. Average cost, 1s.
Sufficient to fill a large glass dish. Seasonable from August to March.
APRICOT CREAM.
61. Ingredients.—12 to 16 ripe apricots, ½ lb. of sugar, 1½ pint of
milk, the yolks of 8 eggs, 1 oz. of isinglass. Mode.—Divide the
apricots, take out the stones, and boil them in a syrup made with ¼
lb. of sugar and ¼ pint of water, until they form a thin marmalade,
which rub through a sieve. Boil the milk with the other ¼ lb. of
sugar, let it cool a little, then mix with it the yolks of eggs which
have been previously well beaten; put this mixture into a jug, place
this jug in boiling water, and stir it one way over the fire until it
thickens; but on no account let it boil. Strain through a sieve, add
the isinglass, previously boiled with a small quantity of water, and
keep stirring it till nearly cold; then mix the cream with the apricots;
stir well, put it into an oiled mould, and, if convenient, set it on ice;
at any rate, in a very cool place. It should turn out on the dish
without any difficulty. In winter-time, when fresh apricots are not
obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for them. Time.—From 20
to 30 minutes to boil the apricots. Average cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient to
fill a quart mould. Seasonable in August, September, and October.
APRICOT JAM, or Marmalade.
Ingredients.—To every lb. of ripe apricots, weighed after being
skinned and stoned, allow 1 lb. of sugar. Mode.—Pare the apricots,
which should be ripe, as thinly as possible, break them in half, and
remove the stones. Weigh the fruit, and to every lb. allow the same
proportion of loaf sugar. Pound the sugar very finely in a mortar,
strew it over the apricots, which should be placed on dishes, and let
them remain for 12 hours. Break the stones, blanch the kernels, and
put them with the sugar and fruit into a preserving-pan. Let these
simmer very gently until clear; take out the pieces of apricot singly
as they become so, and, as fast as the scum rises, carefully remove
it. Put the apricots into small jars, pour over them the syrup and
kernels, cover the jam with pieces of paper dipped in the purest
salad-oil, and stretch over the top of the jars tissue paper, cut about
2 inches larger and brushed over with the white of an egg: when
dry, it will be perfectly hard and air-tight. Time.—12 hours, sprinkled
with sugar; about ¾ hour to boil the jam. Average cost.—When
62. cheap, apricots may be purchased for preserving at about 1s. 6d.
per gallon. Sufficient.—10 lbs. of fruit for 12 pots of jam.
Seasonable.—Make this in August or September.
APRICOT PUDDING, Baked.
Ingredients.—12 large apricots, ¾ pint of bread-crumbs, 1 pint of
milk, 3 oz. of pounded sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 glass of sherry.
Mode.—Make the milk boiling hot, and pour it on to the bread-
crumbs; when half cold, add the sugar, the well-whisked yolks of the
eggs, and the sherry. Divide the apricots in half, scald them until
they are soft, and break them up with a spoon, adding a few of the
kernels, which should be well pounded in a mortar; then mix the
fruit and other ingredients together, put a border of paste round the
dish, fill with the mixture, and bake the pudding from ½ to ¾ hour.
Time.—½ to ¾ hour. Average cost, in full season, 1s. 6d. Sufficient
for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in August, September, and October.
APRICOT TART.
Ingredients.—12 or 14 apricots, sugar to taste, puff-paste or short
crust. Mode.—Break the apricots in half, take out the stones, and put
them into a pie-dish, in the centre of which place a very small cup or
jar, bottom uppermost; sweeten with good moist sugar, but add no
water. Line the edge of the dish with paste, put on the cover, and
ornament the pie in any of the usual modes. Bake from ½ to ¾
hour, according to size; and if puff-paste is used, glaze it about 10
minutes before the pie is done, and put it into the oven again to set
the glaze. Short crust merely requires a little sifted sugar sprinkled
over it before being sent to table. Green apricots make very good
tarts, but they should be boiled with a little sugar and water before
they are covered with the crust. Time.—½ to ¾ hour. Average cost,
in full season, 1s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in
August, September, and October; green ones rather earlier.
63. APRICOTS, Compôte of (an elegant Dish).
Ingredients.—½ pint of syrup (see Syrup), 12 green apricots.
Mode.—Make the syrup by the given recipe, and, when it is ready,
put in the apricots whilst the syrup is boiling. Simmer them very
gently until tender, taking care not to let them break; take them out
carefully, arrange them on a glass dish, let the syrup cool a little,
pour it over the apricots, and, when cold, serve. Time.—From 15 to
20 minutes to simmer the apricots. Average cost, 9d. Sufficient for 4
or 5 persons. Seasonable in June and July, with green apricots.
APRICOTS, Flanc of, or Compôte of Apricots in
a Raised Crust (Sweet Entremets).
Ingredients.—¾ lb. of short crust (see Crust), from 9 to 12 good-
sized apricots, ¾ pint of water, ½ lb. of sugar. Mode.—Make a short
crust by the given recipe, and line a mould with it. Boil the sugar
and water together for 10 minutes; halve the apricots, take out the
stones, and simmer them in the syrup until tender; watch them
carefully, and take them up, for fear they should break. Arrange
them neatly in the flanc or case; boil the syrup until reduced to a
jelly; pour it over the fruit, and serve either hot or cold. Greengages,
plums of all kinds, peaches, &c., may be done in the same manner,
as also currants, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, &c.; but
with the last-named fruits, a little currant-juice added to them will be
found an improvement. Time.—Altogether, 1 hour to bake the flanc,
from 15 to 20 minutes to simmer the apricots. Average cost, 1s. 6d.
Sufficient for 1 entremets or side-dish. Seasonable in July, August,
and September.
The pretty appearance of this dish depends on the fruit being
whole; as each apricot is done, it should be taken out of the syrup
immediately.
APRIL—BILLS OF FARE.
64. Dinner for 18 persons.
First Course.
Second Course.
Entrées.
65. Third Course.
Dessert and Ices.
Dinner for 12 persons.
First Course.—Soup à la reine; julienne soup; turbot and lobster
sauce; slices of salmon à la genévése. Entrées.—Croquettes of
leveret; fricandeau de veau; vol-au-vent; stewed mushrooms.
Second Course.—Fore-quarter of lamb; saddle of mutton; boiled
chickens, asparagus and peas; boiled tongue garnished with tufts of
broccoli; vegetables. Third Course.—Ducklings; larded guinea-fowls;
charlotte à la parisienne; orange jelly; meringues; ratafia ice
pudding; lobster salad; sea-kale; dessert and ices.
Dinner for 10 persons.
First Course.—Gravy soup; salmon and dressed cucumber; shrimp
sauce; fillets of whitings. Entrées.—Lobster cutlets; chicken patties.
Second Course.—Roast fillet of veal; boiled leg of lamb; ham,
garnished with broccoli; vegetables. Third Course.—Ducklings;
compôte of rhubarb; custards; vanilla cream; orange jelly; cabinet
pudding; ice pudding; dessert.
66. Dinner for 8 persons.
First Course.—Spring soup; slices of salmon and caper sauce;
fried filleted soles. Entrées.—Chicken vol-au-vent; mutton cutlets
and tomato sauce. Second Course.—Roast loin of veal; boiled fowls
à la béchamel; tongue; vegetables. Third Course.—Guinea-fowls;
sea-kale; artichoke bottoms; cabinet pudding; blancmange; apricot
tartlets; rice fritters; macaroni and Parmesan cheese; dessert.
Dinners for 6 persons.
First Course.—Tapioca soup; boiled salmon and lobster sauce.
Entrées.—Sweetbreads; oyster patties. Second Course.—Haunch of
mutton; boiled capon and white sauce; tongue; vegetables. Third
Course.—Soufflé of rice; lemon cream; charlotte à la parisienne;
rhubarb tart; dessert.
First Course.—Julienne soup; fried whitings; red mullet. Entrées.
—Lamb cutlets and cucumbers; rissoles. Second Course.—Roast ribs
of beef; neck of veal à la béchamel; vegetables. Third Course.—
Ducklings; lemon pudding; rhubarb tart; custards; cheesecakes;
dessert.
First Course.—Vermicelli soup; brill and shrimp sauce. Entrées.—
Fricandeau of veal; lobster cutlets. Second Course.—Roast fore-
quarter of lamb; boiled chickens; tongue; vegetables. Third Course.
—Goslings; sea-kale; plum pudding; whipped cream; compôte of
rhubarb; cheesecakes; dessert.
First Course.—Ox-tail soup; crimped salmon. Entrées.—Croquettes
of chicken; mutton cutlets and soubise sauce. Second Course.—
Roast fillet of veal; boiled bacon-cheek, garnished with sprouts;
boiled capon; vegetables. Third Course.—Sea-kale; lobster salad;
67. cabinet pudding; ginger cream; raspberry-jam tartlets; rhubarb tart;
macaroni; dessert.
APRIL, Plain Family Dinners for.
Sunday.—1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-
kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.
Monday.—1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of
veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-
pudding.
Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from
remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard
puddings.
Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef and
carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.
Thursday.—1. Pea-soup, made with liquor that beef was boiled in.
2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3.
Macaroni.
Friday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak made with remains of cold beef,
roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled batter
pudding and sweet sauce.
Saturday.—1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made of remains of
cold shoulder, broiled rump-steak and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast
dumplings.
Sunday.—Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce. 2.
Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, and mint sauce. 3.
Rhubarb tart and cheesecakes.
Monday.—Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of
boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, rump-steak and kidney pudding, potatoes.
68. 3. Spinach and poached eggs.
Tuesday.—1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled
neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice
puddings.
Wednesday.—1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter and fennel
sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon and greens. 3. Fig
pudding.
Thursday.—1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, broccoli,
potatoes, veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled
rhubarb pudding.
Friday.—1. Irish stew or haricot for cold mutton, minced veal. 2.
Half-pay pudding.
Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton chops. 2. Baked
arrowroot pudding.
APRIL, Things in Season.
Fish.—Brill, carp, cockles, crabs, dory, flounders, ling, lobsters,
red and grey mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, prawns, salmon (but
rather scarce and expensive), shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles,
tench, turbot, whitings.
Meat.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal.
Poultry.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.
Game.—Leverets.
Vegetables.—Broccoli, celery, lettuces, young onions, parsnips,
radishes, small salad, sea-kale, spinach, sprouts, various herbs.
Fruit.—Apples, nuts, pears, forced cherries, &c. for tarts, rhubarb,
dried fruits, crystallized preserves.
69. ARROWROOT BISCUITS, or Drops.
Ingredients.—½ lb. of butter, 6 eggs, ½ lb. of flour, 6 oz. of
arrowroot, ½ lb. of pounded loaf sugar. Mode.—Beat the butter to a
cream; whisk the eggs to a strong froth, add them to the butter, stir
in the flour a little at a time, and beat the mixture well. Break down
all the lumps from the arrowroot, and add that with the sugar to the
other ingredients. Mix all well together, drop the dough on a
buttered tin, in pieces the size of a shilling, and bake the biscuits
about ¼ hour in a slow oven. If the whites of the eggs are
separated from the yolks, and both are beaten separately before
being added to the other ingredients, the biscuits will be much
lighter. Time.—¼ hour. Average cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient to make from
3 to 4 dozen biscuits. Seasonable at any time.
ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE (an inexpensive
Supper Dish).
Ingredients.—4 heaped tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1½ pint of
milk, 3 laurel-leaves or the rind of ½ lemon, sugar to taste. Mode.—
Mix to a smooth batter the arrowroot with ½ pint of the milk; put
the other pint on the fire, with laurel-leaves or lemon-peel,
whichever may be preferred, and let the milk steep until it is well
flavoured; then strain the milk, and add it, boiling, to the mixed
arrowroot; sweeten it with sifted sugar, and let it boil, stirring it all
the time, till it thickens sufficiently to come from the saucepan.
Grease a mould with pure salad-oil, pour in the blancmange, and,
when quite set, turn it out on a dish, and pour round it a compôte of
any kind of fruit, or garnish it with jam. A tablespoonful of brandy,
stirred in just before the blancmange is moulded, very much
improves the flavour of this sweet dish. Time.—Altogether, ½ hour.
Average cost, 6d. without the garnishing. Sufficient for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable at any time.
ARROWROOT PUDDING, Baked or Boiled.
70. Ingredients.—2 tablespoonfuls of arrowroot, 1½ pint of milk, 1
oz. of butter, the rind of ½ lemon, 2 heaped tablespoonfuls of moist
sugar, a little grated nutmeg. Mode.—Mix the arrowroot with as
much cold milk as will make it into a smooth batter, moderately
thick; put the remainder of the milk into a stewpan with the lemon-
peel, and let it infuse for about ½ hour; when it boils, strain it gently
to the batter, stirring it all the time to keep it smooth; then add the
butter; beat this well in until thoroughly mixed, and sweeten with
moist sugar. Put the mixture into a pie-dish, round which has been
placed a border of paste; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and
bake the pudding from 1 to 1¼ hour, in a moderate oven, or boil it
the same length of time in a well-buttered basin. To enrich this
pudding, stir to the other ingredients, just before it is put in the
oven, 3 well-whisked eggs, and add a tablespoonful of brandy. For a
nursery pudding, the addition of the latter ingredients will be found
quite superfluous, as also the paste round the edge of the dish.
Time.—1 to 1¼ hour, baked or boiled. Average cost, 7d. Sufficient
for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.
ARROWROOT SAUCE, for Puddings.
Ingredients.—2 small teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 4
dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, ¼
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, ½ pint of water. Mode.—Mix the
arrowroot smoothly with the water; put this into a stewpan; add the
sugar, strained lemon-juice, and grated nutmeg. Stir these
ingredients over the fire until they boil, when the sauce is ready for
use. A small quantity of wine, or any liqueur, would very much
improve the flavour of this sauce: it is usually served with bread,
rice, custard, or any dry pudding that is not very rich. Time.—
Altogether, 15 minutes. Average cost, 4d. Sufficient for 6 or 7
persons.
ARROWROOT, to make.
71. Ingredients.—Two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, 3 tablespoonfuls of
cold water, ½ pint of boiling water. Mode.—Mix the arrowroot
smoothly in a basin with the cold water, then pour on it the boiling
water, stirring all the time. The water must be boiling at the time it is
poured on the mixture, or it will not thicken; if mixed with hot water
only, it must be put into a clean saucepan, and boiled until it
thickens; but this occasions more trouble, and is quite unnecessary,
if the water is boiling at first. Put the arrowroot into a tumbler,
sweeten it with lump sugar, and flavour it with grated nutmeg or
cinnamon, or a piece of lemon-peel, or, when allowed, 3
tablespoonfuls of port or sherry. As arrowroot is in itself flavourless
and insipid, it is almost necessary to add the wine to make it
palatable. Arrowroot made with milk instead of water is far nicer, but
is not so easily digested. It should be mixed in the same manner,
with 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water, the boiling milk then poured on
it, and well stirred. When made in this manner, no wine should be
added, but merely sugar, and a little grated nutmeg or lemon-peel.
Time.—If obliged to be boiled, 2 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per pint.
Sufficient to make ½ pint of arrowroot.
ARTICHOKES, Boiled.
Ingredients.—To each ½ gallon of water, allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt, a piece of soda the size of a shilling;
artichokes. Mode.—Wash the artichokes well in several waters; see
that no insects remain about them, and trim away the leaves at the
bottom. Cut off the stems and put them into boiling water, to which
has been added salt and soda in the above proportion. Keep the
saucepan uncovered, and let them boil quickly until tender; ascertain
when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, or by trying if the
leaves can be easily removed. Take them out, let them drain for a
minute or two, and serve in a napkin, or with a little white sauce
poured over. A tureen of melted butter should accompany them. This
vegetable, unlike any other, is considered better for being gathered
two or three days; but they must be well soaked and washed
previous to dressing. Time.—20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.
72. Sufficient,—a dish of 5 or 6 for 4 persons. Seasonable from July to
the beginning of September.
ARTICHOKES.
ARTICHOKES, a French Mode of Cooking.
Ingredients.—5 or 6 artichokes; to each ½ gallon of water allow 1
heaped tablespoonful of salt, ½ teaspoonful of pepper, 1 bunch of
savoury herbs, 2 oz. of butter. Mode.—Cut the ends of the leaves, as
also the stems; put the artichokes into boiling water, with the above
proportion of salt, pepper, herbs, and butter; let them boil quickly
until tender, keeping the lid of the saucepan off, and when the
leaves come out easily, they are cooked enough. To keep them a
beautiful green, put a large piece of cinder into a muslin bag, and let
it boil with them. Serve with plain melted butter. Time.—20 to 25
minutes. Sufficient,—5 or 6 sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable
from July to the beginning of September.
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.
ARTICHOKES. Fried (Entremets, or small dish
to be served with the Second Course).
Ingredients.—5 or 6 artichokes, salt and water: for the batter,—¼
lb. of flour, a little salt, the yolk of 1 egg, milk. Mode.—Trim and boil
the artichokes, and rub them over with lemon-juice, to keep them
white. When they are quite tender, take them up, remove the
chokes, and divide the bottoms; dip each piece into batter, fry them
into hot lard or dripping, and garnish the dish with crisped parsley.
73. Serve with plain melted butter. Time.—20 minutes to boil the
artichokes, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them. Sufficient,—5 or 6 for 4 or 5
persons. Seasonable from July to the beginning of September.
ARTICHOKES à l’Italienne.
Ingredients.—4 or 5 artichokes, salt and butter, about ½ pint of
good gravy. Mode.—Trim and cut the artichokes into quarters, and
boil them until tender in water mixed with a little salt and butter.
When done, drain them well, and lay them all round the dish, with
the leaves outside. Have ready some good gravy, highly flavoured
with mushrooms; reduce it until quite thick, and pour it round the
artichokes, and serve. Time.—20 to 25 minutes to boil the
artichokes. Sufficient for one side-dish. Seasonable from July to the
beginning of September.
ARTICHOKES, Boiled Jerusalem.
Ingredients.—To each ½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; artichokes. Mode.—Wash, peel, and shape the
artichokes in a round or oval form, and put them into a saucepan
with sufficient cold water to cover them salted in the above
proportion. Let them boil gently until tender; take them up, drain
them, and serve them in a napkin, or plain, whichever mode is
preferred; send to table with them a tureen of melted butter or
cream sauce, a little of which may be poured over the artichokes
when they are not served in a napkin. Time.—About twenty minutes
after the water boils. Average cost, 2d. per lb. Sufficient,—10 for a
dish for 6 persons. Seasonable.—from September to June.
ARTICHOKES, Mashed Jerusalem.
Ingredients.—To each ½ gallon of water allow 1 oz. of salt, 15 or
16 artichokes, 1 oz. butter, pepper and salt to taste. Mode.—Boil the
artichokes as in the preceding recipe until tender; drain and press
the water from them, and beat them up with a fork. When
74. thoroughly mashed and free from lumps, put them into a saucepan
with the butter and a seasoning of white pepper and salt; keep
stirring over the fire until the artichokes are quite hot, and serve. A
pretty way of serving Jerusalem artichokes as an entremets, or
second course dish, is to shape the artichokes in the form of a pear,
and to serve them covered with white sauce, garnished with
Brussels sprouts. Time.—About 20 minutes. Average cost, 2d. per lb.
Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from September to June.
ARTICHOKE (Jerusalem) SOUP, sometimes
called Palestine Soup (a White Soup).
Ingredients.—3 slices of lean bacon or ham, ½ a head of celery, 1
turnip, 1 onion, 3 oz. of butter, 4 lbs. of artichokes, 1 pint of boiling
milk, or 1 pint of boiling cream, salt and cayenne to taste, 2 lumps
of sugar, 2½ quarts of white stock. Mode.—Put the bacon and
vegetables, which should be cut into thin slices, into the stewpan
with the butter. Braise these for ¼ of an hour, keeping them well
stirred. Wash and pare the artichokes, and after cutting them into
thin slices, add them, with a pint of stock, to the other ingredients.
When these have gently stewed down to a smooth pulp, put in the
remainder of the stock. Stir it well, adding the seasoning, and when
it has simmered for five minutes, pass it through a strainer. Now
pour it back into the stewpan, let it again simmer five minutes,
taking care to skim it well, and stir it to the boiling milk or cream.
Serve with small sippets of bread fried in butter. Time.—1 hour.
Average cost per quart, 1s. 2d. Seasonable from June to October.
Sufficient for 8 persons.
BOILED ASPARAGUS.
ASPARAGUS, Boiled.
75. Ingredients.—To each ½ gallon of water allow 1 heaped
tablespoonful of salt; asparagus. Mode.—Asparagus should be
dressed as soon as possible after it is cut, although it may be kept
for a day or two by putting the stalks into cold water; yet to be
good, like every other vegetable, it cannot be cooked too fresh.
Scrape the white part of the stems, beginning from the head, and
throw them into cold water; then tie them into bundles of about 20
each, keeping the heads all one way, and cut the stalks evenly, that
they may all be the same length; put them into boiling water, with
salt in the above proportion; keep them boiling quickly until tender,
with the saucepan uncovered. When the asparagus is done, dish it
upon toast, which should be dipped in the water it was cooked in,
and leave the white ends outward each way, with the points meeting
in the middle. Serve with a tureen of melted butter. Time.—15 to 18
minutes after the water boils. Average cost, in full season, 2s. 6d.
the 100 heads. Sufficient.—Allow about 50 heads for 4 or 5 persons.
Seasonable.—May be had forced from January, but cheapest in May,
June and July.
ASPARAGUS TONGS.
ASPARAGUS-PEAS (Entremets, or to be served
as a Side Dish, with the Second Course).
Ingredients.—100 heads of asparagus, 2 oz. of butter, a small
bunch of parsley, 2 or 3 green onions, flour, 1 lump of sugar, the
yolks of 2 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt. Mode.—Carefully
scrape the asparagus, cut it into pieces of an equal size, avoiding
that which is in the least hard or tough, and throw them into cold
water. Then boil the asparagus in salt and water until three-parts
done; take it out, drain, and place it on a cloth to dry the moisture
away from it. Put it into a stewpan with the butter, parsley, and
onions, and shake over a brisk fire for 10 minutes. Dredge in a little
flour, add the sugar, and moisten with boiling water. When boiled a
76. short time and reduced, take out the parsley and onions, thicken
with the yolks of 2 eggs beaten with the cream; add a seasoning of
salt, and when the whole is on the point of simmering, serve. Make
the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to the vegetable. Time.—
Altogether, ½ hour. Average cost, 1s. 6d. a pint. Seasonable in May,
June, and July.
ASPARAGUS PUDDING (a delicious Dish, to be
served with the Second Course).
Ingredients.—½ pint of asparagus peas, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls
of flour, 1 tablespoonful of very finely minced ham, 1 oz. of butter,
pepper and salt to taste, milk. Mode.—Cut up the nice green tender
parts of asparagus, about the size of peas; put them into a basin
with the eggs, which should be well beaten, and the flour, ham,
butter, pepper, and salt. Mix all these ingredients well together, and
moisten with sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency
of thick batter; put it into a pint buttered mould, tie it down tightly
with a floured cloth, place it in boiling water, and let it boil for 2
hours; turn it out of the mould on to a hot dish, and pour plain
melted butter round, but not over, the pudding. Green peas pudding
may be made in exactly the same manner, substituting peas for the
asparagus. Time.—2 hours. Average cost, 1s. 6d. per pint.
Seasonable in May, June, and July.
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Ingredients.—100 heads of asparagus, 2 quarts of medium stock
(see Stock), 1 pint of water, salt. Mode.—Scrape the asparagus, but
do not cut off any of the stems, and boil it in a pint of water salted,
until the heads are nearly done. Then drain the asparagus, cut off
the green heads very neatly, and put them on one side until the
soup is ready. If the stock is not made, add the stems of asparagus
to the rest of the vegetables; if, however, the stock is ready, boil the
stems a little longer in the same water that they were first cooked
77. in. Then strain them off, add the asparagus water to the stock, and
when all is boiling drop in the green heads (or peas as they are
called), and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. If the soup boils long after
the asparagus is put in, the appearance of the vegetable would be
quite spoiled. A small quantity of sherry, added after the soup is put
into the tureen, would improve this soup very much. Sometimes a
French roll is cut up and served in it. Time.—To nearly cook the
asparagus, 12 minutes. Average cost, 1s. 9d. per quart. Sufficient for
6 or 8 persons. Seasonable from May to August.
ASPIC, or Ornamental Savoury Jelly.
Ingredients.—4 lbs. of knuckle of veal, 1 cow-heel, 3 or 4 slices of
ham, any poultry trimmings, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 faggot of savoury
herbs, 1 glass of sherry, 3 quarts of water; seasoning to taste of salt
and whole white pepper; 3 eggs. Mode.—Lay the ham on the bottom
of a stewpan, cut up the veal and cow-heel into small pieces, and lay
them on the ham; add the poultry trimmings, vegetables, herbs,
sherry, and water, and let the whole simmer very gently for 4 hours,
carefully taking away all scum that may rise to the surface; strain
through a fine sieve, and pour into an earthen pan to get cold. Have
ready a clean stewpan, put in the jelly, and be particular to leave the
sediment behind, or it will not be clear. Add the whites of 3 eggs,
with salt and pepper, to clarify; keep stirring over the fire till the
whole becomes very white; then draw it to the side, and let it stand
till clear. When this is the case, strain it through a cloth or jelly-bag,
and use it for moulding poultry, &c. Tarragon vinegar may be added
to give an additional flavour. Time.—Altogether 4½ hours. Average
cost for this quantity, 4s.
AUGUST—BILLS OF FARE.
Dinner for 18 persons.
First Course.
79. Third Course.
Dessert and Ices.
Dinner for 12 persons.
First Course.—Vermicelli soup; soup à la reine; boiled salmon;
fried flounders; trout en matelot. Entrées.—Stewed pigeons;
sweetbreads; ragoût of ducks; fillets of chickens and mushrooms.
Second Course.—Quarter of lamb; cotellette de bœuf à la jardinière;
roast fowls and boiled tongue; bacon and beans. Third Course.—
Grouse; wheatears; greengage tart; whipped cream; vol-au-vent of
plums; fruit jelly; iced pudding; cabinet pudding; dessert and ices.
Dinner for 8 persons.
First Course.—Julienne soup; fillets of turbot and Dutch sauce;
red mullet. Entrées.—Riz de veau aux tomates; fillets of ducks and
peas. Second Course.—Haunch of venison; boiled capon and
oysters; ham, garnished; vegetables. Third Course.—Leveret; fruit
80. jelly; compôte of greengages; plum tart; custards, in glasses;
omelette soufflé; dessert and ices.
Dinner for 6 persons.
First Course.—Macaroni soup; crimped salmon and sauce
Hollandaise; fried fillets of trout. Entrées.—Tendrons do veau and
stewed peas; salmi of grouse. Second Course.—Roast loin of veal;
boiled bacon, garnished with French beans; stewed beef à la
jardinière; vegetables. Third Course.—Turkey poult; plum tart;
custard pudding; vol-au-vent of pears; strawberry cream; ratafia
soufflé; dessert.
First Course.—Vegetable-marrow soup; stewed mullet; fillets of
salmon and ravigotte sauce. Entrées.—Curried lobster; fricandeau de
veau à la jardinière. Second Course.—Roast saddle of mutton;
stewed shoulder of veal, garnished with forcemeat balls; vegetables.
Third Course.—Roast grouse and bread sauce; vol-au-vent of
greengages; fruit jelly; raspberry cream; custards; fig pudding;
dessert.
AUGUST, Plain Family Dinners for.
Sunday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb,
mint sauce; French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant
tart, custard pudding.
Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat-pie, vegetable
marrow, and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.
Tuesday.—1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French
beans and potatoes, 3. Baked raspberry pudding.
Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French
beans; the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable
marrow. 3. Black-currant pudding.
81. Thursday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French beans
and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.
Friday.—1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad,
lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce
instead of pudding.
Saturday.—1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold
beef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese.
Sunday.—1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-
cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans and
potatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding.
Monday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton
cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.
Tuesday.—1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled
knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croûtons; vegetables. 3.
College pudding.
Wednesday.—1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish of
rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart.
Thursday.—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet
dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.
Friday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled
in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomato
sauce. 3. Fondue.
Saturday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold
beef; cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.
AUGUST, Things in Season.
Fish.—Brill, carp, chub, crayfish, crabs, dory, eels, flounders,
grigs, herrings, lobsters, mullet, pike, prawns, salmon, shrimps,
82. skate, soles, sturgeon, thornback, trout, turbot.
Meat.—Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.
Poultry.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, pigeons,
plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, wheatears, wild ducks.
Game.—Leverets, grouse, black-cock.
Vegetables.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans, carrots, cabbages,
cauliflowers, celery, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions,
peas, potatoes, radishes, sea-kale, small salading, sprouts, turnips,
various kitchen herbs, vegetable marrows.
Fruit.—Currants, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons,
mulberries, nectarines, peaches, pears, pineapples, plums,
raspberries, walnuts.
BACON, Boiled.
Ingredients.—Bacon; water. Mode.—As bacon is frequently
excessively salt, let it be soaked in warm water for an hour or two
previous to dressing it; then pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the
under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put it into a saucepan of
cold water; let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as the scum
rises to the surface of the water, remove it. Let it simmer very gently
until it is thoroughly done; then take it up, strip off the skin, and
sprinkle over the bacon a few bread raspings, and garnish with tufts
of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and
tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accompaniments.
Time.—1 lb. of bacon, ¾ hour; 2 lbs., 1½ hour. Average cost, 10d.
to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts. Sufficient.—2 lbs., when served
with poultry or veal, sufficient for 10 persons. Seasonable at any
time.
83. BOILED BACON.
BACON, Broiled Rashers of.
Before purchasing bacon, ascertain that it is perfectly free from
rust, which may easily be detected by its yellow colour; and for
broiling, the streaked part of the thick flank is generally the most
esteemed. Cut it into thin slices, take off the rind, and broil over a
nice clear fire; turn it two or three times, and serve very hot. Should
there be any cold bacon left from the previous day, it answers very
well for breakfast, cut into slices, and broiled or fried. Time.—3 or 4
minutes. Average cost, 10d. to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts.
Seasonable at any time.
Note.—When the bacon is cut very thin, the slices may be curled
round and fastened by means of small skewers, and fried or toasted
before the fire.
BACON and HAMS, Curing of.
The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on
a strong bench or stool, and the head is separated from the body at
the neck close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are
removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following
manner:—The ribs are divided about an inch from the spine on each
side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with
the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh
above it, throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed.
The portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge—
the breadth of the interior consisting of the breadth of the spine,
and about an inch of the ribs on each side, being diminished to
about half an inch at the exterior or skin along the back. The
84. breastbone, and also the first anterior rib, are also dissected from
the side. Sometimes the whole of the ribs are removed; but this, for
reasons afterwards to be noticed, is a very bad practice. When the
hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the
case, they are cut out so as to include the hock-bone, in a similar
manner to the London mode of cutting a haunch of mutton. The
carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, which
process, in large curing establishments, is generally as follows:—The
skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of fifty parts by
weight of salt, and one part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised
parts of the ham or flitch, and the inside of the flitch, covered with
the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to
each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches
slightly inclined, and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the
brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards
used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon
remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from hogs of a
carcass weight less than 15 stone (14 lbs. to the stone). Flitches of a
larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and
reversed in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about
half the first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the
inside and incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for
another week. Hams being thicker than flitches, will require, when
less than 20 lbs. weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4
weeks to remain under the above described process. The next and
last process in the preparation of bacon and hams, previous to being
sent to market, is drying. This is effected by hanging the flitches and
hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by stoves, or in a smoke-
house, in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the
smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or
other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the curing process
has some advantages over the other, as by it the meat is subject to
the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the combustion of
the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The process also
furnishing a thin covering of a resinous varnish, excludes the air not
only from the muscle, but also from the fat—thus effectually
85. preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal
reasons for condemning the practice of removing the ribs from the
flitches of pork are, that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly
hard and pungent in the process of salting, and, by being more
exposed to the action of the air, becomes sooner and more
extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in
completing the process of curing, the flavour which smoke-drying
imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is therefore by
no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile
curers. A very impure variety of pyroligneous acid, or vinegar made
from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes used, on
account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it
contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter
object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that
derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable
portion of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from
that country packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the
salting process, without having been in any degree dried. In the
process of salting above described, pork loses from 8 to 10 per cent
of its weight, according to the size and quality of the meat; and a
further diminution of weight, to the extent of 5 to 6 per cent. takes
place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt;
so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of
bacon and hams in a proper state for market, is not less on an
average than 15 per cent. on the weight of the fresh pork.
BACON, to Cure and Keep it free from Rust
(Cobbett’s Recipe).
The two sides that remain, and which are called flitches, are to be
cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or
flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost,
in a salting-trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away
the brine; for, to have sweet and fine bacon, the flitches must not be
sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of vile taste that barrel and
86. sea pork have. Every one knows how different is the taste of fresh
dry salt from that of salt in a dissolved state; therefore change the
salt often,—once in 4 or 5 days; let it melt and sink in, but not lie
too long; twice change the flitches, put that at bottom which was
first on the top: this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt
than the sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so
sweet and fine, nor keep so well. As for the time required in making
your flitches sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances. It takes a
longer time for a thick than a thin flitch, and longer in dry than in
damp weather, or in a dry than in a damp place; but for the flitches
of a hog of five score, in weather not very dry or damp, about 6
weeks may do; and as yours is to be fat, which receives little injury
from over-salting, give time enough, for you are to have bacon until
Christmas comes again. The place for salting should, like a dairy,
always be cool, but well ventilated; confined air, though cool, will
taint meat sooner than the midday sun accompanied by a breeze.
With regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary:
first, to hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them; and
next, that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, or
coal. As to the time required to smoke a flitch, it depends a good
deal upon whether there be a constant fire beneath; and whether
the fire be large or small: a month will do, if the fire be pretty
constant and rich, as a farm-house fire usually is; but over-smoking,
or rather too long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust; great
attention should therefore be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not
to be dried up to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be
perfectly dry. Before you hang it up, lay it on the floor, scatter the
flesh side pretty thickly over with bran, or with some fine sawdust,
not of deal or fir; rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it: this
keeps the smoke from getting into the little openings, and makes a
sort of crust to be dried on. To keep the bacon sweet and good, and
free from hoppers, sift fine some clean and dry wood ashes. Put
some at the bottom of a box or chest long enough to hold a flitch of
bacon; lay in one flitch, then put in more ashes, then another flitch,
and cover this with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where
the box or chest is kept ought to be dry, and, should the ashes
87. become damp, they should be put in the fireplace to dry, and when
cold, put back again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as
good at the end of the year as on the first day. For simple general
rules, these may be safely taken as a guide; and those who implicitly
follow the directions given, will possess at the expiration of from 6
weeks to 2 months well-flavoured and well-cured bacon.
BACON or HAMS, to Cure in the Devonshire
way.
Ingredients.—To every 14 lbs. of meat allow 2 oz. of saltpetre, 2
oz. of salt prunella, 1 lb. of common salt. For the pickle, 3 gallons of
water, 5 lbs. of common salt, 7 lbs. of coarse sugar, 3 lbs. of bay
salt. Mode.—Weigh the sides, hams, and cheeks, and to every 14
lbs. allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella, and
common salt. Pound and mix these together, and rub well into the
meat; lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, and
turning it daily for two successive days. At the end of the second
day, pour on it a pickle made as follows:—Put the above ingredients
into a saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir frequently; remove all the
scum, allow it to boil for ¼ hour, and pour it hot over the meat. Let
the hams, &c., be well rubbed and turned daily; if the meat is small,
a fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in
the pickle, and the hams 3 weeks; if from 30 lbs. and upwards, 3
weeks will be required for the sides, &c., and from 4 to 5 weeks for
the hams. On taking the pieces out, let them drain for an hour, cover
with dry sawdust, and smoke from a fortnight to three weeks. Boil
and carefully skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good,
closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 lbs.
of common salt, and the same of treacle, to allow for waste.
Tongues are excellent put into this pickle cold, having been first
rubbed well with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24 hours,
not forgetting to make a deep incision under the thick part of the
tongue, so as to allow the pickle to penetrate more readily. A
fortnight or three weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be
88. sufficient. Time.—Small meat to remain in the pickle a fortnight,
hams 3 weeks; to be smoked from a fortnight to 3 weeks.
BACON, to Cure in the Wiltshire way.
Ingredients.—1½ lb. of coarse sugar, ½ lb. of bay salt, 6 oz. of
saltpetre, 1 lb. of common salt. Mode.—Sprinkle each flitch with salt,
and let the blood drain off for 24 hours; then pound and mix the
above ingredients well together and rub it well into the meat, which
should be turned every day for a month; then hang it to dry, and
afterwards smoke it for 10 days. Time.—To remain in the pickle from
three to four weeks, to be smoked 10 days, or rather longer.
BACON, Fried Rashers of, and Poached Eggs.
Ingredients.—Bacon; eggs. Mode.—Cut the bacon into thin slices,
trim away the rusty parts, and cut off the rind. Put it into a cold
frying-pan, that is to say, do not place the pan on the fire before the
bacon is in it. Turn it 2 or 3 times, and dish it on a very hot dish.
Poach the eggs and slip them on to the bacon without breaking the
yolks, and serve quickly. Time.—3 or 4 minutes. Average cost, 10d.
to 1s. per lb. for the primest parts. Sufficient.—Allow 6 eggs for 3
persons. Seasonable at any time. Note.—Fried rashers of bacon,
curled, serve as a pretty garnish to many dishes; and, for small
families, answer very well as a substitute for boiled bacon, to serve
with a small dish of poultry, &c.
The Bain Marie.—It is an open kind of vessel, as shown in the
engraving, and is a utensil much used in modern cookery, both in
English and French kitchens. It is filled with boiling or nearly boiling
water; and into this water should be put all the stewpans containing
those ingredients which it is desired to keep hot. The quantity and
quality of the contents of these vessels are not at all affected; and if
the hour of dinner is uncertain in any establishment, by reason of
the nature of the master’s business, nothing is so sure a means of
89. preserving the flavour of all dishes as the employment of the bain
marie.
THE BAIN MARIE.
BARBEL.
Ingredients.—½ pint of port wine, a saltspoonful of salt, 2
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 sliced onions, a faggot of sweet herbs,
nutmeg and mace to taste, the juice of a lemon, 2 anchovies; 1 or 2
barbels, according to size. Mode.—Boil the barbels in salt and water
till done; pour off some of the water, and to the remainder put the
ingredients mentioned above. Simmer gently for ½ hour or rather
more, and strain. Put in the fish, heat it gradually, but do not let it
boil, or it will be broken. Time.—Altogether 1 hour. Sufficient for 4
persons. Seasonable from September to November.
BARBERRIES (Berberis vulgaris).
A fruit of such great acidity, that even birds refuse to eat it. In
this respect, it nearly approaches the tamarind. When boiled with
sugar, it makes a very agreeable preserve or jelly, according to the
different modes of preparing it. Barberries are also used as a dry
sweetmeat, and in sugarplums or comfits; are pickled with vinegar,
and are used for various culinary purposes. They are well calculated
to allay heat and thirst in persons afflicted with fevers. The berries,
arranged on bunches of nicely curled parsley, make an exceedingly
pretty garnish for supper dishes, particularly for white meats, like
boiled fowl à la Béchamel, the three colours, scarlet, green, and
white, contrasting well, and producing a very good effect.
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