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    Week 10 Basic Weaves

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    Nguyen Viet Cuong
    The document discusses different types of basic weaves and fabrics. It describes plain weave as the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns passing over and under each other alternately. Twill weave is formed with a progression of interlacings by one yarn to the right or left, creating a distinct diagonal wale. Satin weave has long floats of yarns on the surface that give it a lustrous appearance and different faces. Different weaves produce fabrics with varying characteristics like strength, drape, and texture.

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    Week 10 Basic Weaves

    Uploaded by

    Nguyen Viet Cuong
    249 views19 pages
    The document discusses different types of basic weaves and fabrics. It describes plain weave as the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns passing over and under each other alternately. Twill weave is formed with a progression of interlacings by one yarn to the right or left, creating a distinct diagonal wale. Satin weave has long floats of yarns on the surface that give it a lustrous appearance and different faces. Different weaves produce fabrics with varying characteristics like strength, drape, and texture.

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    The document discusses different types of basic weaves and fabrics. It describes plain weave as the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns passing over and under each other alternately. Twill weave is formed with a progression of interlacings by one yarn to the right or left, creating a distinct diagonal wale. Satin weave has long floats of yarns on the surface that give it a lustrous appearance and different faces. Different weaves produce fabrics with varying characteristics like strength, drape, and texture.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as ppt, pdf, or txt
    249 views19 pages

    Week 10 Basic Weaves

    Uploaded by

    Nguyen Viet Cuong
    The document discusses different types of basic weaves and fabrics. It describes plain weave as the simplest weave with warp and weft yarns passing over and under each other alternately. Twill weave is formed with a progression of interlacings by one yarn to the right or left, creating a distinct diagonal wale. Satin weave has long floats of yarns on the surface that give it a lustrous appearance and different faces. Different weaves produce fabrics with varying characteristics like strength, drape, and texture.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as ppt, pdf, or txt
    of 19

    FASH 15 textiles basic weaves & fabrics

    basic weaves & fabrics


    a fabric is a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into 2- or 3-dimensional products that require some shaping & flexibility
    fabric quality describes many characteristics: freedom from defects uniform structure & appearance production performance consumer performance important to textile producers, designers, retailers & consumers

    woven fabrics
    made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles warp yarnsyarns in lengthwise direction (ends) filling yarnsyarns in crosswise direction (weft)

    common characteristics:
    made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles many different interlacing patterns give interest and texture to fabric yarns can be raveled from adjacent sides fabrics have grain fabrics are relatively stable, with little stretch in warp or filling

    the loom
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqjhvOuKLR8&NR=1

    hand looms
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLNalNO2yTg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

    air-jet loom
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgLstMHhLfY

    rapier loom
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOY_dhy8AQ0&NR=1

    projectile loom
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3vjBYID0fc

    circular loom
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFFCAa1QHH4

    characteristics of woven fabrics


    warp & filling differentiation
    selvage is always parallel to lengthwise direction (warp) most fabrics have a lower elongation in warp direction warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabrics because of loom tension fancy or special-function yarns are usually in the filling direction fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and filling directionsEXAMPLE: poplin has filling rib; satin has warp floats warp yarns tend to have higher twist & are similar and more uniform in structure and appearance fabric crimp is usually greater for filling yarns since they must curve over or under warp yarns due to loom operation warp yarn count tends to be higher than filling yarn count if yarn-dyed stripes are in one direction only they tend to be in the warp direction

    characteristics of woven fabrics


    graingeometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns on-grain fabric has lengthwise grain parallel to warp yarns & crosswise grain parallel to filling yarns off-grain fabrics create problems in production & usedo not drape properly or hang evenly and printed designs are not straight

    characteristics of woven fabrics


    fabric count number of warp and filling yarns per square inch indication of qualityhigher count, better quality balance ratio of warp yarns to filling yarns in fabric balanced fabric 1:1 selvage lengthwise self-edge of a fabric formed differently on different looms

    characteristics of woven fabrics


    fabric width loom determines fabric width handwovennarrow (27-36 inches) commercialexceed 60 inches consumer market45-60 inches or 54-60

    fabric weight describes how much a given area or length of fabric weighs importantidentify appropriate use & name
    lightweight/top weightweigh < 4.0 oz/sq yd medium weight4.0-6.0 oz/sq yd heavyweight/bottom weight weight > 6.0 oz/sq yd

    naming & diagramming woven fabrics


    fabric names are based on: fabric structure fabric weight yarn type yarn balance finishes

    plain weave
    simplest of the three basic weaves formed by yarns at right angles passing alternately over and under each other least expensive weave to produce no technical face or back unless printed

    general characteristics: tend to wrinkle easily less absorbent than other weaves raveling less of a problem yarn type greatly influences these characteristics
    CREATE A PLAIN WEAVE

    balanced plain weave


    simplest plain weave warp & filling yarns are same size & same distance apart wider range of end uses than fabrics of any other weave most widely used type of woven fabric can be made in any weight

    lightweight sheergeorgette, chiffon, voile, organdy, organza

    lightweight opaquelawn, batiste, China silk, habutai, challis


    medium-weightpercale (calico, chintz, cretonne, polished cotton, glazed chintz)
    muslin, flannelette, outing flannel, gingham, chambray, madras, pongee, honan, ripstop nylon, ripstop taffeta, true crepe

    heavyweightweavers cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap,


    hessian, osnaburg, flannel, tweed

    unbalanced plain weave


    significantly more yarns in one direction than the other creates ribridges of varying size depending upon number & size of yarns lightweight ribbed fabricscrepe de chine medium-weight ribbed fabricsbroadcloth, taffeta,
    shantung

    heavyweight ribbed fabricpoplin, faille, rep, bengaline,


    ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord

    basket weave
    made with two or more adjacent warps and two or more fillings interlacing pattern similar to plaintwo or more yarns follow same parallel path most common are 2x2 or 4x4 variations include 2x1 and 2x3
    dimity oxford cloth sailcloth duck canvas hopsacking monks cloth

    fabrics that have a basket weave:

    twill weave
    each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or the left forms a distinct diagonal line or wale can be made on a simple loom have technical face & backface has most pronounced wale fewer interlacings allow yarns to move more freely softer, more pliable & recover better from wrinkles soil shows less on uneven face of twill weave than plain weave CREATE A TWILL WEAVE

    even-sided twill weave


    expose an equal amount of warp and filling yarn on each side of fabric reversible even-sided twill weave fabrics:
    foulard or surah serge twill flannel sharkskin herringbone houndstooth

    warp-faced twill weave


    have predominance of warp yarns on face stronger & more resistant to abrasion & piling warp-faced twill weave fabrics:
    lining twill denim jean drill covert chino gabardine cavalry twill fancy twill

    satin weave
    each warp floats over four filling yarns and interlaces with the 5th filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left can be produced on simple loom lustrous because of long floats on surface yarns can be packed very closely together face & back look significantly different high count gives strength, durability, body, firmness, wind repellency fewer interlacings gives pliability and wrinkly resistance, but yarns may snag, slip or unravel easily CREATE A SATIN WEAVE

    satin weave
    satin weave fabrics satinwarp faced (warp floats cover surface), filament yarns crepe-back satincrepe yarns give softness & drapeability sateenspun yarns, come in filling sateen & warp sateen

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