YARN
YARN
• The twist multiplier (TM) plays a large part in assigning the stiffness or
“feel” of a yarn. It affects strength of the yarn.
Low TM = softer yarn
High TM = stiffer yarn
• The twist multiplier can be used to define the character of a yarn.
Weaving yarns will typically have a higher TM. Continuous filament
yarns require a lower TM to attain optimal strength. To understand
why these things are true, let’s look at the equations used to help find
the desired level of twist.
Classification of Twist Amount:
• Zero Twist: In this case yarn is given “0” TPI (Twist per Inch). This only exist
in raw reeled silk yarn (filament) where silk gum can hold the filaments
together.
• Very Low Twist: In this case yarn is given 3-5 TPI (1-2 Twist per Centimeter).
• Medium Twist: In this case yarn has 20-25 TPI (8-10 Twist per Centimeter),
this twist is used in most of the spun yarns.
• Voile Twist (Hard Twist): In this case yarn has 30-40 TPI (12-17 Twist per
Centimeter).
• Crepe Twist: In this case yarn has 40-75 TPI (17-30 Twist per Centimeter).
This the highest twist of all.
Twist contraction (TC) is how much something compacts when you
twist it.
• Twist contraction affects the length of the finished product- because
when the yarn is twisted two or three turns, you may end up with .95
meters instead of 1 meter.
• Single yarns
Single or one-ply, yarns are single strands composed of fibres held
together by at least a small amount of twist; or of filaments grouped
together either with or without twist; or of single synthetic filaments
in sufficient thickness for use alone as yarn (monofilaments). Single
yarns of the spun type, composed of many short fibres, require twist
to hold them together and may be made with either S-twist or Z-
twist.
Plied yarns
• Ply, plied, or folded, yarns are composed of two or more single yarns
twisted together. Two-ply yarn, for example, is composed of two
single strands; three-ply yarn is composed of three single strands. In
making ply yarns from spun strands, the individual strands are usually
each twisted in one direction and are then combined and twisted in
the opposite direction.
• When both the single strands and the final ply yarns are twisted in the
same direction, the fibre is firmer, producing harder texture and
reducing flexibility.
Cord yarns
• Cord yarns are produced by twisting ply yarns together, with the final
twist usually applied in the opposite direction of the ply twist. Cable
cords may follow an SZS form, with S-twisted singles made into Z-
twisted plies that are then combined with an S-twist, or may follow a
ZSZ form. Hawser cord may follow an SSZ or a ZZS pattern. Cord yarns
may be used as rope , may be made into very heavy industrial fabrics.