 Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw materials,

product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated
technologies.
 Companies range from small family business to multinationals.

 The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

 Departments in garment manufacturing unit
Trims and
Merchandising Sampling Fabric store accessories store
department department department department

Spreading & Quality

Cutting Sewing Washing Assurance
department department department department

Finishing & Finance and

Packaging Maintenance Accounts HR/Admin
department Department Department Department
 BOM
Buyer- Supplier Production
Sampling generation for
Meeting order placed
po

Pre production Fabric washing Raw material Raw material

sample inspection procurement

Shipment
Production Finishing Packing
sample

Shipment
Receipt of the BOM draft for Raw material Raw material
Pattern making
techpack sampling procurement inspection

Getting the fit Getting

BOM draft for Fit sample Proto sample
sample approval on
production making development
approved proto sample

Approval Order approved Getting approvals Raw material R aw material

sample on size set
for production procurement inspection
development samples

Order file
Send shipment Follow up with Approval on pre GPT/FPT to
transferred to
samples to the the production production conform to
the production
buyer department sample standards
department

Follow up with
the production
department till
delivery
 Internal & external communication

Sampling

Preparing internal order sheets

Accessories & trims

Preparing purchase orders

Merchandiser Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms

Advising and assisting production and quality department

Mediating production and quality departments

Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections

Giving shipping instructions and following shipment

Source: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/36/3516/merchandising-in-an-apparel-industry1
 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.

 Checking pattern’s workability.

 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.

 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.

 Minimizing operations and consumption.

 • This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
Design development • Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.

• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based
on proto sample .
• Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the pattern maker with the
Proto sample style.
• It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked
on the dress form.
• The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.

• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and
Fit sample for approval of construction details.
• The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk
production or sample yardage fabric is used.

• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
Photo shoot sample • Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or
websites to see the response of the consumer.

• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
Sales man / Marketing • In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
/Showroom sample • This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample
presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
 • The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample
Size set sample in all sizes
• 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.

• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment.
GPT sample (Garment
• GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as
Performance Test) buyer.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.

• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.

• It has to be made in original fabric and trims
Pre- production sample • Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical
to PP sample.
• The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduction
sample.

Wash sample • Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric
after washing.

• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing
TOP sample (Top of line.
Production) • In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.

• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
Shipment sample shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Functions of the fabric store department
 Receive the fabric as per BOM

 Fabric inspection (four point system)

 Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)

 Issue to the production department as per the requirement

 10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net
fabric.
 Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s
requirement.
 Perform GSM cutting.

 Perform shrinkage test.

 Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.

 Check fabric roll for the defects.

 Allocate points to the defects.

Functions of the trims and accessories department
 To receive incoming material.

 To check material for attribute & variables.

 To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.

 To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material
as per requirement.
 To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.
 Spreading and cutting flow process

Preparation for
Planning Spreading Cutting
sewing
Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads

Markers
Planning
Production

Manual
Spreading
Machine

Manual
Cutting
Machine

Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
 Planning

Spreads Markers Production

It translates customer orders into cutting orders
 minimize total production costs

 meet deadlines

 seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability

 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making

 Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed

 Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization

 Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel

 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

 Cutting orders
leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

 The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut
planning.
 The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and
shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
 One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.

 A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.

 Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.

 Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:

 table length,

 type of equipment,

 spread length,

 spreading time and

 cutting time.
Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes
to be cut from a single spread.

Marker making
 is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified
style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)
 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
 By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric
consumption as low as possible.
 It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention.
These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending
to details such as drill holes and notches.
 Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company
may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Markers types:
 Blocks or Sections
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the
pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.

Block or section marker

 Continuous
 Continuous markers contain all the
pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single
cutting.

Continuous marker
Markers types:
 Open marker
 Marker made with full pattern pieces.

 Closed marker
 Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).

Closed marker
 Marker making

Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
Manual marker
 Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

 Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.

 Time consuming.

 Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)

 Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

 Marker making
Computerised marker
 Accurate

 Shortest response time.

 Direct or digitized.

 Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions

 Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.

 Can be printed/recalled/modified.

 Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

Features Manual Marker Making Computerized Marker Making

Suitability Small scale production Large scale production

Efficiency Comparatively less efficient More efficient
Fabric wastage High Least
Time required More time-consuming Less time-consuming

Manpower required More manpower required Less manpower required

Cost Low initial investment High initial investment

More skilled operators
Skill requirement More skilled operator required
required
Accuracy Less accurate More accurate
Flexibility Less flexible More flexible
Grading can be done
Grading Grading is manual
automatically
Marker printout Not possible Possible
Changes in marker Difficult to make Easy to make
Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
 The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is
made with every pattern placed with the “down”
direction of the pattern in the same direction.
 This mode is necessary for fabrics that are
asymmetric.
 All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down”
direction.
 The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but
least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is
made where there is no restriction of which way the
pattern are oriented.
 The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”,
placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that
the patterns are on-grain.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most
efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
 The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/
One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
 In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are
oriented in opposite directions.
 This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.

Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and
Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005
Marker Efficiency
 It is determined for fabric utilization

 Minimum waste

Factors affecting marker efficiency

 Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)

 Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)

 Grain requirements
Fabric Spreading
 Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting
table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
 Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

Requirement of spreading Spreading equipment

 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Spreading surfaces( table, pin
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability table, vacuum table)
 Alignment of plies  Spreading machines
 Correct ply tension

 Elimination of fabric faults

 Avoidance of distortion in the spread

Spreading equipment
 Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
 Spreading machines
 Spreading

Manual Machine
 In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, if it is a roll, may be
supported by a frame and carried along the
table where the end is secured by weights
or by clamps.
 The operators work back from the end,
aligning the edges and ensuring that there
is no tension and that there are no
wrinkles.
 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to
end of the spread, dispensing one ply at a time on the
spread.
 Spreading machines may include:
 A motor to drive
 A platform on which the operator rides
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the ends of
ply in place
 A ply counter
 An alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge guides
 A turntable
 A direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the
speed of travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric
being spread.
 Nap one way & face
one way spreading

Nap either way &

face to face
spreading
Spreading Mode
Nap one-way face to
face spreading

Nap either way &

face one way
spreading
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
 Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.

 Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators
(thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.
 While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the
rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting
position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called
as “dead heading”

Face one way Nap

one
way

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”,

2005
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
 The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.

 Difficult to achieve manually.

 The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at
layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric
is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.

Face to Nap either

face way

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”,

2005
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
 Most time consuming method of spreading.

 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and
return back to starting position without.
 Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.

Face to Nap one

face way

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”,

2005
Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table
thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start
spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading
by the machine in this spreading mode.

Face one way Nap either

way

Source: Prabir Jana, “Spreading & Cutting of Apparel Products”,

2005
Spreading costs
 Labour cost
 Fabric waste
 Splicing loss
 End loss
 Width loss
 Cutting
Cutting

Manual Machine

Portable cutting Stationary Position

Scissors
knives cutters markers

Straight Band
Notchers
knife knife
Die Drills and
Round cutting thread
knife
Servo markers
cutting
Plasma
cutting
Water jet
cutting
Laser
cutting
Scissors
 Portable cutting knives

Power system

Handle

Sharpening

Cutting blade

Blade
guard
Up and down
movement

Straight knife
Round knife Base plate

One way thrust as the circular blade makes contact with

 Portable cutting knives

Straight knife Round knife

 Vertical blade  Popular, light and fast.

 Reciprocates up and down  Suitable only for cutting in straight lines
 Corners and curves can be cut accurately or very gradual curves, in depths of
 Most versatile and commonly used about 15cm
 Blades length - 6 to 14 inches  Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or
 Spread depth depends on blade length & bulky material, or lower lays of harder
adjustable height of the blade guard material such as shirts
 All of the pieces cut from a lay are  Small blade cuts single layer
identical  A round blade contacts the spread at
an angle; thus, the top ply is cut before
the bottom ply
Stationary cutters: Band knife
 Contains a narrow, sharpened, endless steel band
 Fabric layers are guided by hand against the blade
 Air cushion is provided below the fabric layers
 Plies are stapled together to prevent slippage
 Used for precision cutting to a depth of up to 300mm
 Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions are cut
precisely
 Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or for
shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks
Stationary cutters: Servo cutting
 Overhead servo motor
 Adjustable speed
 Suspension system that
supports the knife perpendicular
to the cutting table
 Knife is mounted on a swivel arm
 It combines vertical cutting and
band knife cutting into one
machine
 Cutting
Stationary cutters: Die cutting
 Dies are pre – shaped metal outlines
 Most accurate
 Die cutting operation involves
 Placement of fabric
 Positioning the die on the fabric
 Engaging the machine to press the die
into the fabric
 Used mainly for leather, coated and
laminated
materials
 Areas where the same patterns are used over
a long period, e.g. collar, pocket flaps
 Computer Controlled Knife Cutting
Features:

 This method provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed
 Marker is not necessary to put over the fabric lays during cutting
 Cutting knife is oval shaped & very hard. Sharpness is also high &
blade is made of stainless steel
 Cutting knife itself moves according to the direction of computer
memory
 This m/c is CAM system m/c & works through CAD system
 Computer Controlled Knife Cutting
• Advantage:
 Very fast cutting operation
 Very active cutting by computer controlled system
 Suitable for very large scale production
 Speed of can be controlled
 Intensity of accident is low
 No need of marker
 Fabric can be cut 6-8 times than manual method
 Less labor cost
• Disadvantage:
 Very expensive m/c
 Higher maintenance cost
 Skilled manpower is required
 If correct disc is not loaded in the computer, error will be indicated
Cutting By Laser Beam
Features:
 This method, fabric is cut by a ray of light in a very fine
spot using a laser
 Radius of spot of light is 0.25 mm & highly powerful
 When the ray falls on a material, it generates heat on the
material & cutting is done by vaporization
 Fabric is cut at a speed of 13 meter per min
 Cutting head is controlled by computer
 Cutting By Laser Beam

• Advantage:
 Very fast cutting operation
Can be cut in a proper line as the cutting head
is controlled by computer
 No need of sharpening operation

• Disadvantage:
 Not suitable for cutting of multi-layer of fabric
 For thermoplastic fabric the cutting edge
should be fused
 Very expensive cutting method
 Cutting

Stationary cutters: Plasma cutting

 Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
 Faster cutter of single plies
 High engineering and cost issues
 Problems – same as for laser cutting
 Cutting
Stationary cutters: Water jet cutting

 Very high velocity, fine stream of water

 High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the fibers on impact
 As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges
 Wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting quality
 Leather, plastic, vinyl
 High equipment costs
 Cutting
Position markers: Notchers
 Notches can be cut by straight knife too but
accuracy is required
 Specialized notching equipment provides
greater accuracy because a guide lines up the
notcher with the cut edge
 Hot notcher consists of a heating element
(blade) that slightly scorches the fibers adjacent
to the notch (thermoplastic fibers)
 Two types of notches:
 Straight notch and V-notch
 Cutting
Position markers: Drills and thread markers
 Drill mount consists of motor, base plate with a hole and spirit
level
 Used for reference markers needed away from the edge of a
garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
 A hole is drilled through the lay
 Normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it
 Loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly scorches or fuse
the edges of the hole
 Hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small deposit of paint
on each ply of fabric
 ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by the
construction of the garment
 Preparation
for sewing

Ticketing Bundles
 Preparation for sewing
Ticketing
 Tickets carry details : style no, size,
ply no, bundle no., date issued
 Operations may be incorporated for
payment purposes, control of work
and facilitating quality control
 Preparation for sewing
Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
 Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
 If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is done

Bundle ticket consists of :

 Order no. 6015
 Bundle no. 1430
 Quantity 12
 Style no. 3145
 Size 12
 Section collar
 Cut parts Bulk
received from In line Production
production
the cutting inspection continues
room begins

Rough checking Button- End line

Ironing button hole/ checking
bartack

Final checking Measurement Tagging Packing

checking

QA audit by the
Ex - factory
buying house
 Sewing department

Production system Seams and stitches

 Make through system

Conventional bundle
system

Progressive bundle
system

Production system Flexible flow system

Straight line system

Synchro flow system

Unit production system

Modular manufacturing
system
Production system: Make through system
 It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right through
one garment at a time.

The benefits of implementing the make through system are:

•Quick throughput time

•Easy to supervise

The shortcomings of the make through system are:

•Low productivity
•High labor cost
•It necessitates an experienced operator for assembling
•This system is limited to couture and sample making

Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Conventional bundle system

 Sewing machines are arranged in lines.

 The work flows from the central (store) area to
the first machine, from the first machine back
to the store, and then on to the next machine,
and so forth.
A distributor stationed at the store is
responsible for receiving and dispatching the
work.
 The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
 These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or
a bag, or the garment parts may be wrapped
and tied.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Progressive bundle system
 Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.

 Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties

the bundle and passes it to the next operator.
 There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for
storing the inter-process work between each
operation.
 The work is routed by means of tickets.

 This system is the most widely used system in the

garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories,
jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Advantages of the PBS of garment production:

 This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garment production
machines, as output from one special purpose automated garment machine may be
able to supply several garment machine operators for the next operation.
 Small garment bundles will allow faster throughput until and unless there are any
bottlenecks or long lead times within operations.

Disadvantages of PBS of garment production:

 The PBS is cost-efficient for individual garment operations. As the garment operators
perform the operation on a daily basis it allows them to increase their speed and
productivity, and as a result they are not willing to learn a new garment operation
because it reduces their efficiency and earnings.
 Operators working in a PBS of garment production are independent of other operators
and the final product.
 Absenteeism, machine failure, and slow processing are also some major bottlenecks in
this system.
 WIP is seen in large quantities in this production system, which leads to
longer lead times.
 Poor quality of garments are seen in bundles, which were hidden because of
large inventories in the work process.
 Leads to extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory in the garment
industry.
 Line balancing becomes difficult most of the time.
 Proper planning is requires for each batch and for each style, which takes a lot
of time.
 Improper planning leads to poor labor turnover, poor quality and less
production.
 Variety of styles of lesser quantity are not effective in this system.
Production system: Flexible flow system
 A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work
in a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.
 The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of work
can be planned using the correct number of operators in
sequence.
 For style A garments, the work distributed after operation 1
can be distributed to the two operators performing
operation 2. On completion, the work from both workers is
then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is
continued by the two operators performing operation 4
and so on.
 When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be
planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Straight line system
 The manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete.
 Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
 The garment parts pass from one operator to the next,
until the garment has been completely made up by one
group of operators.
 The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a
conveyor belt (its speed will be set to suit the cycle
time).

Source: ApparelKey.com
Production system: Synchro flow system

 Garment parts of the same size and color

are processed separately.
 Different garment parts can be
processed simultaneously for assembling.
 At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc.,
from other lines also go down a central line.
 The different garment parts are then
processed together to form completed garments.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Advantages

1.The labor cost is lower and productivity is higher compared to the make through system
as operators of various levels of skill and specialized machines are utilized in this system.
2.This system is very efficient for producing a variety of styles in reasonable quantities.
3.Automation and specialization can be done.
4.Breakdown of machines and absenteeism will not cause serious problems.

Disadvantages

5.The garment quality should be strictly maintained as all levels of operators are involved
in the work.
6.Highly skilled operators are necessary to do simple operations within the section.
7.The inventory cost is high due to high work-in-process (WIP), which is necessary in this
system as a group of people are involved in each section.
8.As the cut pieces are not bundled as in the case of a bundling system, there could be a
chance for a lot of mix up, shade variation and sizes.
Production system: Unit production system
 A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.

 It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual units
from work-station to work station for assembly.
 All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by
means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
 Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.

 Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving garment parts.
 Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory
data, immediate tracking of styles, and performance data for prompt decision.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Advantages of the UPS of garment production:
1.Bundle handling system is completely eliminated.
2.Time involved in the pick up and drop is reduced to a minimum.
3.Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register
the work.
4.Computerized systems in this UPS automatically balance the work
between two work stations.
5.Up to 40 styles can be produced simultaneously on one system.

Disadvantages of the UPS of garment production:

6.UPS requires high investments where the payback period is long.
7.Planning needs to be effective every time.
8.Sometimes the orderly and controlled flow of work via computerized
control of the whole production process becomes difficult to measure.
Production system: Modular manufacturing
system
 Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,
or modules.
 The team works on one/a few garment at a time
instead of a bundle of garments.
 The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate to
different machines as they work, becoming familiar
with multiple steps in producing the garment.

Source: ApparelKey.com
Advantages of a modular garment production system
1.High flexibility
2.Fast throughput times
3.Low wastages
4.Reduced absenteeism
5.Reduced repetitive motion ailments
6.Operator ownership of the production process is high
7.Empowered employees
8.Improved quality of product

Disadvantages of a modular garments production system

9.A high capital investment in equipment
10.High investment in initial training
11.High cost incurred in continued training
 Evaluation of Garments Production Systems
The evaluation of garment production systems can be done by taking
into consideration four primary factors such as
1.Processing time: It is the total working time of all the processes
involved in assembling a garment.
2.Transportation time: It is the total time consumed for movement of
semi finished or finished garments from one workstation or
department to another.
3.Waiting time of unfinished garments: It is the idle time of a work
bundle when it waits for the next operation.
4.Inspection time: It is time taken for in-process inspection of semi
finished garments or final inspection of finished garments before
packing.
Seams and stitches
 Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw

Stitch
Take-up lever regulator

Tension discs/check-
spring

Needle bar

Needle Reversing lever

Throat plate
Needle guard Machine bed
Presser foot
Needle Bar

Needle Throat plate

Needle Eye

Presser Foot

Feed Dog
Stitch forming devices

Stitch Lock Device used

stitch Chain Bobbin hook
stitch Over Looper
lock Looper and spreader

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

The bobbin of a lock stitch machine

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

 Machine beds

Raised bed
Flat bed

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

 Machine beds

Cylinder bed Feed of arm

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Machine beds

Post bed

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

 Garments are shaped and formed in three ways:
 materials molded to a form,
 fabric pieces cut to shape and assembled by bonding, and
 pieces cut to shape and sewn.

 For the purpose of standardization of stitch and seam formations, the U.S government
developed a guide that defines stitches and seams in current use. The United States Federal
Stitch and Seam Specifications (Federal Standard 751a) were adopted in 1965.
 The British Standard BS 3870: Schedule of Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings was also
developed about the same time.
 The Federal Standard 751a have been replaced by ASTM D 6193, Standards Related to
Stitches and Seams.

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

ASTM D 6193 gives the following definitions:
 A stitch is the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

 A seam is a line where two or more fabrics are joined.

 A stitching consists of a series of stitches embodied in a material for ornamental purposes or

finishing an edge or both.

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Seams
 The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.

 To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely
allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
 The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the
correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-product is of paramount
importance.

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Physical properties of seam
 Strength: a seam must be strong. Strength is usually measured in two directions: across the
seam (lateral or transverse strength) and along the seam (longitudinal strength).
 Extensibility

 Durability: A seam must be durable, long-lasting and not abrade or wear easily during
everyday use of the garment
 Security: a seam needs to be secure and not unravel during everyday use of the garment

 Appearance properties: the ideal seam should join pieces of fabric in an unobtrusive
and
efficient manner with no discontinuity in physical properties or appearance.
 Balance

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Classification of seams
 Superimposed seam
 Lap seam
 Bound seam
 Flat seam
Superimposed seam
 Edge finishing

Bound seam

Lap seam
Edge finishing

Flat seam

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Stitches
Stitch properties
 Stitch size has three dimensions: length, width, and depth.

 Stitch length is specified as the number of stitches per inch (spi) and can be an indicator of
quality. High spi means short stitches; low spi means long stitches. Generally, the greater
the spi, the more the holding power and seam strength.
 Stitch width refers to the horizontal span (bight) covered in the formation of one stitch or
single line of stitching. Stitches that have width dimensions require multiple needles or
lateral movement of thread carriers such as the needle bars, loopers or spreaders.
 Stitch depth is the distance between the upper and lower surface of the stitch. It is a
factor for blind stitches.
Stitch classification
 Stitch classification is based on structure of the stitch and method of interlacing.

Source: Glock & Kunz (Third edition)

Stitch classification
100 Class stitch: Single thread chain stitch
 Using one needle thread and one blind looper

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses

101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction

103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming

104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/100cl.htm
Stitch classification
200 Class stitch: Single thread hand sewn stitch
 Using one needle thread

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses

202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs

205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/200cl.htm
Stitch classification
300 Class stitch: Two or more thread lock stitch
 Using Needle Thread(s) and One Bobbin Hook Thread

Diagram Stitch class Thread count

Typical uses
301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies

304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch

306 Class Two thread Blind stitch

315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/300cl.htm
Stitch classification
400 Class stitch: Multi-thread chain stitch
 Using one or more needle threads and one or more looper threads

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses

Seaming multiple
401 Class Two threads plies with moderate
stretch

Topstitching or
404 Class Two threads
seaming with stretch

"Bottom cover stitch;

406 Class Three threads a (greater) stretch
chain stitch

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/400cl.htm
Stitch classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
 Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)

Diagram Stitch class Thread count

Typical uses
One needle over edge stitch for
501 Class One thread
serging / “blanket stitch"

One needle over edge stitch for

502 Class Two thread
serging

Over edge stitch for serging with

503 Class Two thread
crossover on edge of fabric

Over edge stitch for serging and

504 Class Three thread
light seaming

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Stitch classification
500 Class Stitch: Multi-thread over edge chain stitch
 Using needle thread(s) and looper thread(s)

Diagram Stitch class Thread count

Typical uses
Mock safety stitch for seaming with
512 Class Four Thread
wide bite and greater stretch for knits

Over edge stitch for seaming with wide

514 Class Four Thread
bite and greater stretch for knits

True safety stitch for seaming with

515 Class Four Thread
good stretch for wovens and knits

True safety stitch for seaming with

516 Class Five Thread
good stretch for wovens and knits

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/500cl.htm
Stitch classification
600 Class Stitch: Multi-thread cover stitches

Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses

Cover stitch or
602 Class Four thread
seaming knits

605 Class Five thread Cover stitch

607 Class Six thread Wide cover stitch

Source: http://www.garmento.org/751Astitchesandseams/600cl.htm
Responsibilities of quality department
 To impart quality in the product.
 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
 To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
 Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
 Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially
finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to
some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to
check if they meet the required measurements.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Principle of inspection (inspection loop)

Inspection

Correction of Detection of
defects defects

Determination of Feedback of these

causes of defects defects to
appropriate
personnel

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

How much to inspect ?
 No inspection

 100% inspection

 Spot checking- inspecting random shipments

 Arbitrary sampling-10% sampling

 Statistical sampling or acceptance sampling-flexibility with regard to the amount of

inspection to be performed

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Inspection terms
 Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the
units of the sample being selected at random without regards to their quality. The number of
units of a product in the sample is the sample size.
 Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’, that is a collection of units of a
product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
 Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch

 Percent defective = Number of defectives 100

Number of units inspected

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Identification of defects
 Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item
to be second.
 Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either
because of severity or location.
 Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability or
serviceability of the item.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Spreading defects
Possible Pattern Defects:
 Pattern parts missing  Skimpy marking
 Mixed parts  Generous marking
 Patterns not facing in the correct direction  Marker too wide
on napped fabrics
 Not enoughknife clearance
 Patterns not all facing in the
freedom
same direction on a one-way fabric
 Mismatched checks and stripes
 Patterns not aligned with respect to the
 Notches and drill marks omitted,
fabric grain
indistinct, or misplaced
 Line definition poor

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Cutting defects
 Frayed edges

 Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges

 Ply-to-ply fusion

 Single-edge fusion

 Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut

 Notches

 Drills

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Sewing defects
 Needle Damage  Pleated seams

 Feed Damage  Wrong stitch density

 Skipped stitches  Uneven stitch density

 Thread breaks  Staggered stitch

 Broken stitches  Improperly formed stitches

 Seam grin  Oil spots or stains

 Seam pucker

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Seaming defects
 Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
 Insecure back stitching
 Twisted seam
 Mismatched checks or stripes
 Mismatched seam
 Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam
 Reversed garment part
 Blind stitching showing on the face side
 Wrong seam or stitch type used
 Wrong shade of thread used

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Assembly defects
 Finished components nor correct to size or shape or not symmetrical.

 Finished garment not to size

 Parts, components, closures or features omitted

 Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

 Interlining incorrectly positioned

 Lining too full, too tight, showing below the bottom of the garment, twisted,

 Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness

 Garment parts shaded

 Parts in one-way fabrics in wrong direction

 Mismatched trimming

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Checks for final inspection
 Open seams  Snaps, fasteners, buttons

 Skipped stitches  Labels

 Cracked stitches  Elastic

 Stitches/inch  Measurements

 Uneven seams  Mends or repairs

 Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams  Stripe

 Needle and feed cuts  Hems

 Unclipped threads and Long ends  Trim

 Raw edge  Broken needle

 Distortion

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

 AQL: Accepted quality level

 The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection
can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
 The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be
accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

AQL: Accepted quality level
Sample size code letters

Lot or Batch Size Sample size code letter

2 to 8 A
9 to 15 B
16 to 25 C
26 to 50 D
51 to 90 E
91 to 150 F
151 to 280 G
281 to 500 H
501 to 1200 J
1201 to 3200 K
3201 to 10000 L
10001 to 35000 M
AQL: Accepted quality level
Sampling Plans
Sample Size Code Sample
Letter Size Acceptable Quality Level
2.5 4 6.5 10
Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
A 2 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
B 3 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
C 5 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 2
D 8 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3
E 13 1 2 1 2 2 3 3 4
F 20 1 2 2 3 3 4 5 6
G 32 2 3 3 4 5 6 7 8
H 50 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 11
J 80 5 6 7 8 10 11 14 15
K 125 7 8 10 11 14 15 21 22
L 200 10 11 14 15 21 22 21 22
M 315 14 15 21 22 21 22 21 22
 Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.

 In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.

 It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free
from defects.
 Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Operations performed at finishing stage
 Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments.
Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads.
 Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:

Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks,
yellow stains, and hard stains
 Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.

 Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipments.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Operations performed at finishing stage
 Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It
is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with the
appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where
and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while
placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag.
The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Operations performed at finishing stage
Presentation checking and cartoon packing

It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check the
packed garments for the following things:
 Poly bags are as per specification.

 Tags and price stickers are as per specification.

 Packing is secured or not if specified.

 Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.

 Hangers are there or not if specified.

 Garment has been folded as per specification etc.

Source: P. B. Mehta and S. K. Bhardwaj, “ Managing quality in apparel products”

Operations performed at finishing stage
Presentation checking and cartoon packing
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things
are kept in mind during carton packing:
 Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
 Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
 Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
 Closing the cartons with cello tape.
 Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.

 Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net

weight of the carton etc.