BUILDING CONSTRUCTION - II

Course Contents:
 Plastering and Pointing

 Painting

 Gypsum board and

decorative gypsum work

 Tiling

 Cladding
Introduction
• The finished surfaces of walls, constructed brick,
block or stone masonry, ceilings, timber or steel
work in a building are irregular, water absorbent and
are liable to be affected by the weathering agencies
such as rain, wind, foul gases, etc.
• Therefore, such surfaces are to be finished with a
suitable covering materials in the form of plasters,
washes, paints, etc.to make them smooth, water
repellent, weather resisting and to provide them a
pleasing appearance.
The art of treating the surfaces with a suitable
covering material to make them weather resisting
and decorative is called surface finishing, and the
covering materials used for surface finishing are
called surface finishes.
Purposes of surface finishes
i. To protect surfaces from the effects of
weathering agencies.
ii.To provide a smooth surface.
iii.To provide decorative finish which adds
pleasing appearance to the surfaces.
1. Plastering

Plastering is an application of a smooth coat of

material to walls and ceilings.
• The purpose of plastering is to provide a joint
less, hygienic, easily decorated smooth finish to
walls.
• Plaster covers up the unevenness of bricks or
concrete.
 Cont…
• Plaster is mixed with water to make a plastic
mixture which can be spread directly on a
surface in a thin layer.
• The surface absorbs the water in the mix by a
process called suction.
• The suction process stiffens the plaster rapidly
so that you can level it while it hardens and sets.
Objects of Plastering
Plastering is done to achieve the following objects:
1) To protect the external surfaces against
penetration of rain water and other atmospheric
agencies.
2) To give smooth surface in which dust and dirt
cannot lodge.
3) To give decorative effect.
4) To protect surfaces against vermin.
5) To conceal inferior materials or defective
workmanship.
Requirements of good plaster
The plaster material should full fill the following
requirements:

1. It should adhere to the background, and should

remain adhered during all variations in
seasons and other atmospheric conditions.

2. It should be hard and durable.

3. It should possess good workability.

 Cont…

4. It should be possible to apply it during all

weather conditions.
5. It should be cheap.
6. It should effectively check penetration of
moisture.
7. It should provide the surface with required
decorative effect.
 TYPES OF MORTARS FOR PLASTERING

The selection of type of plaster depends up on the

following factors:

1) Availability of binding materials.

2) Durability requirement.

3) Finishing requirement.

4) Atmospheric conditions and variations in

weather.
4. Atmospheric conditions and variations in weather.

5. Location of surface (i.e. exposed surface or

interior surfaces.)

The following types of mortar are commonly used

for plastering .

i. Lime mortar

ii. Cement mortar

iii.Lime cement (Compo-mortar).

i. Lime Mortar
• Lime used for plastering may be either fat lime
or hydraulic lime.
• Fat lime is preferred since it yields good putty
after slaking. (Slaking is the process of adding
water to make fat lime hydrated.)
CaO + H2O Ca(HO)2 + Heat
• Slaking should be done well. (Why?)
• The mix proportion varies 1:3 – 1:4
 ii. Cement Mortar
• Cement mortar is the best mortar for external
plastering work since it is practically non-absorbent.
• It is also preferred to lime plaster in both rooms and
in damp climates.
• The mix proportion may vary from 1:4 – 1:6.
• Sand used for plastering should be clean, coarse and
angular.
• Before mixing water, dry mixing is thoroughly done.
• Mortar should be used before initial setting takes
place.
iii. Lime – Cement (Compo) Mortar
• Compo mortar contains properties of both the
lime mortar as well as cement mortar.
• Cement mortar as such does not possess
sufficient plasticity. Addition of lime to it
imparts plasticity, resulting in smooth plastered
surface.
• Mix proportions generally used are 1:1:6
(cement : lime : sand), 1:1:8 or 1:2:8.
• Generally, fat lime is used.
TERMINOLOGY USED IN PLASTERING
1. Back ground – is the surface to which the first
coat of plaster is applied.
2. Blistering – is the development of local
swellings on the finished plastered surface, due
to residual un slaked lime nodules.
3. Cracking – is the development of one or more
fissures in the plaster due to movements in the
back ground or surrounding structure.
4. Crazing – is the development of hair cracks,
usually in an irregular pattern, over the finished
surface.
5. Dado – is the lower part of plastered wall, where
special treatment is given to make it better resistance.
6. Dots – are small portions of plaster, laid on back
ground for fixing of screeds. The size of dots may be
15cm x 15cm.
7. Dubbing coat. This is the process of filling up
hollow spaces in the solid back ground, before
applying the main body of the plaster.
8. Finishing Coat. It is the final coat of plaster. Such
a coat is also known as setting coat or skimming coat.
9. Hacking – is the process of roughening the
background to provide suitable bond or key for
plastering.
10. Key – these are the openings or indentations or
corrugations on the back ground or surface of
under coat to which plaster will form mechanical
bond.
11. Peeling – this is the term applied to the
dislodgement of plaster work from the back
ground.
12. Under – coat. These are the coats of plaster
applied under the finishing coat.
Preparing Surfaces for Plastering
In domestic buildings you might plaster:
Brick work, Block work, Concrete, etc.
Each of these surfaces needs some preparation
before you put on the plaster finish.
 Cont..
• Most bricks provide a good surface for plastering
because they have enough of a natural key.
(Key is a rough surface that plaster will stick to.)
• Before plastering brickwork you need to remove
any projections and clean the surface with a stiff
brush.
• When you put wet plaster on the wall, the water
from the mix is absorbed by the brickwork.
 Cont…
• You need to check that this does not cause the
plaster to dry too rapidly so that it becomes
unworkable.
• The process of plastering block work is very
similar to plastering brick work.
• The type of concrete that you might plaster
would be quite smooth from the formwork.
 Cont…
• To prepare concrete, you need to wash off all
traces of oil and hack the surface to provide
enough key for the plaster.

Applying a Plaster Finish

You may apply one, two or three coats of plaster
to achieve a smooth finish.
• You begin by preparing the background.
• Any depressions in the surface should be filled
with mortar or neat plaster.
• You then apply a cement and sand mixture (1:3)
combined with minimal water with a trowel.
• The sand should be well graded to reduce
cracking from shrinkage after the plaster dries.
• Before the first coat fully sets, you should
scratch it to provide a key for the second coat.
 How to Plaster a wall

1. Put mounds of cement and sand mortar across the

wall in columns of three about 1200mm. Check that
the mounds are in a straight line. Smooth the
mounds to a thickness of about 10mm.
2. Apply 75mm vertical strips of plaster (called
screeds) over the mounds and level them to set.
3. Mix the plaster by hand or with a small mixer.
4. Apply a rough plaster coat to the wall between the
screeds by putting it on with an upward sweeping
movement.
5. Move the screed board from the bottom to the top
of the wall in a sawing motion to smooth and level
the plaster.

6. Scratch the first coat before it sets to provide a key

for the second coat and leave it to dry.
7. Apply the finishing coat of 2mm neat plaster with a
steel float to produce a thick, smooth finish.
8. Cure it for about a week.
Defects in Plastering
1. Blistering of Plastered Surfaces – this is the
formation of small patches of plaster swelling
out beyond the plastered surface, arising out of
late slaking of lime particles in the plaster.

2. Cracking – is the formation of cracks or fissures

in the plaster work resulting from the following
reasons:
i. Imperfect preparation of back ground.
ii. Structural defects in building.
iii. Discontinuity of surface.
iv. Movements in the back ground due to its thermal
expansion or rapid drying.
v. Movements in the plaster surface itself, either due to
expansion (in case of gypsum plaster) or shrinkage
(in case of lime-sand plaster).
vi. Excessive shrinkage due to application of thick coat.
vii. Faulty workmanship.
3. Crazing – is the formation of a series of hair cracks
on plastered surface, due to same reasons which
cause cracking.

4. Flacking – is the formation of very loose mass of

plastered surface due to poor bond between
successive coats.

5. Peeling – is the complete dislocation of some

portion of plastered surface, due to poor bond
between successive coats.
6. Popping – is the formation of conical hole in the
plastered surface due to presence of
some particles which expand on setting.

7. Uneven Surface. This is obtained purely due to

poor workmanship.
 1.2 Pointing
• Final treatment with cement or lime made to the
joints of the masonry to provide neat appearance
is termed as pointing.
• In exposed masonry, joints are considered to be
the weakest and most vulnerable spots from
which rain water or dampness can enter.
• Pointing consists of raking the joints to a depth of
10 to 20mm and filling it with better quality
mortar in desired shape.
• The joints, thus finished, give a better appearance
to the surface and prevent rain water from
entering the interior of the masonry.
Purpose of Pointing
1. To prevent the moisture and rain water from
entering the interior of masonry wall through
joints and to make them durable.
2. To improve the appearance of the structure.
 Suitability of Pointing
Pointing is preferred to plastering under the
following circumstances.
1. Where a smooth and even surface is not
essentially required.
2. Where it is desired to exhibit to view the natural
beauty of the material (brick or stones) used in
the construction.
3. Where the material can withstand the
weathering action.
4. Where the workmanship is neat and good.
Preparation of surface
i. New work. All the joints are racked down to a
depth of 2cm while the mortar is still soft. The
surface and joints are then cleaned and
thoroughly wetted.
ii. Old work. All loose pointing and superfluous
mortar on the surface and in the joints are
removed. The joints and surface are cleaned
and thoroughly wetted.
Method of Pointing
• After preparing the surface and cleaning and
wetting the joints as desired above, mortar is
carefully placed in desired shape in these joints.
• A small trowel is used for placing the mortar in
the joint: the mortar is pressed to bring perfect
contact between the old interior mortar of the
joint and new mortar.
• Care should be taken to see that in the case of
ashlar and brick work with first class bricks, the
mortar does not cover face edges.
• The pointed surface is kept wet for at least a
week or till it sets after application.
Pointing Procedures in Brick Work
The following procedures are adopted to do
pointing in brick work.
i. Preparation of the Surface – before pointing on
the mortar joints on the face are racked by
special tool to a depth of about 8mm to provide
key for the mortar to be used for pointing.
Surface is then cleaned and worked thoroughly
and kept wet for few hours.
ii. Filling the joints
• The joints, thus prepared are carefully filled
with mortar.
• The mortar is well pressed in to the joints with
the trowel to obtain firm contact with the
internal old mortar joints.
iii. Finishing the joints

• The excess mortar is then carefully scraped

away and the joints are finished according to
the recommended type of pointing.

iv. Curing
The finished pointing is kept wet for about a
week.
 Types of Pointing
The selection of a particular type of pointing
depends upon the type of bricks or stones used and
the appearance required. Thus pointing is mainly
classified in to the following shapes.
1. Flush Pointing. This type of pointing is formed
by finishing off flush with the edge of masonry
units. The edges are neatly trimmed with trowel
and straight edge. It does not give good
appearance. However, the pointing is more durable
since it does not provide any space for the
accumulation of dust, water, etc. due to this reason,
flush pointing is extensively used.
2. Recessed Pointing – is done by pressing the
mortar back from the edges by 5mm or more.
• The face of the pointing is kept vertical, by
suitable tool.
• The pointing gives very good appearance.
3. Rubbed, keyed or grooved pointing.
• This pointing is a modification of flush pointing
by forming a groove at its mid height, by pointing
tool.
• It gives better appearance.
4. Beaded Pointing

• This is the special type of pointing formed by

a steel or ironed with a concave edge.
• It gives good appearance, but is liable to
damage easily.
5. Struck Pointing

• This is the modification of flush pointing in which

the surface of the pointing is kept inclined, with
its upper edge pressed inside the face by 10mm.
• This pointing drains water easily.
6. Tuck Pointing.
The pointing is formed by first pressing the mortar
in the racked joint and finishing flush with the face.
• While the pressed mortar is green, groove or
narrow channel, having 5mm width and 3mm
depth is cut in the center of the groove.

• This groove is then filled in or tucked in with

white cement putty, kept projecting beyond the
face of the joint by 3mm.
• If the projection is done in mortar, it is called
bastard pointing or half tuck pointing.
7. V – Pointing is formed by making V groove
in the flush finishing face.

8. Weathered Pointing – This is similar to V

pointing but in this case, instead of pressing a V
shaped groove inside, it is projected outside the
wall surface.
• This type of pointing is generally recommended
for superior brick work.
 2. PAINTS AND PAINTING

Paints are liquid compositions of pigments and

binders which when applied to the surface in thin
coats dry to form a solid film to impart the
surface decorative finish, apart from giving
protection to the base material from weathering,
corrosion, and other chemical and biological
attacks.
 Cont…

• Paints are coating of fluid materials, which are

applied as a final finish to all surfaces such as
walls, ceilings, woodwork, metalwork, etc.
• The process of application of paint as a
coating is termed as painting.
 Characteristics of Good Paint

An ideal paint should possess the following

characteristics:

1) Paint should form hard and durable surface.

2) It should give attractive appearance.

3) It should be cheap and readily available.

4) It should be such that it can be applied easily

to the surface.
 Characteristics of Good Paint

5) It should have good spreading quality, so as to

cover maximum area in minimum quantity.

6) It should dry in reasonable time.

7) It should not show hair cracks on drying.

8) It should form film of uniform color, on drying.

9) It should be stable for long period.

10) It should not be affected by atmospheric agencies.
 Objects of Painting
The objects of painting can be summarized as to:
• Protect the surface from weathering effects of
the atmosphere,
• Protect the decay of wood and corrosion of
metals,
• Provide a decorative finish to obtain a clean,
colorful and pleasing surface.
 Ingredients of a Paint
A paint is generally made up of the following
constituents:
i. A base
ii. A vehicle or carrier or binder
iii. A drier
iv. A coloring pigment
v. A solvent or thinner
i. Base:- is a solid substance in a form of powder,
forming a bulk of paint.

• A base is a main ingredient of paint.

• It determines the character of the paint and

imparts durability to the surface which is
painted.

ii. A vehicle or carrier (binder) – The vehicles

are liquid substances which hold the ingredients
of a paint in liquid suspension.
 • The main purpose of the vehicle is to adjust
the viscosity of the paint.
A vehicle or carrier is required mainly for two reasons.

i) To make it possible to spread the paint evenly on

the surface.

ii) to provide a binder for the ingredients of a paint

so that they may stick or adhere to the surface.
 iii. A drier – These substances accelerate the
process of drying.

• A drier absorbs oxygen from the air and transfers

it to the linseed oil, which in turn, gets hardened.
• Driers have a tendency to injure the color of
paint and to destroy the elasticity of paint.
iv. Coloring Pigments

• Coloring pigments are added to the base to have

different desired colors.
• Pigments can be divided in to the following
divisions.

a. Natural colors: ochers, umbers, iron oxides

b. Calcined colors: lamp black, Indian red,

carbon black, red lead.
 c. Precipitates: Prussian blue, chrome green,
chrome yellow, etc.

d. Lakes prepared by discoloring barites or china

clay with the help of suitable dyes.
e. Metal powders such as aluminum powder,
bronze powder, copper powder, zinc powder,
etc.
Coloring pigments
v. A solvent

• The function of a solvent is to make the paint

thin so that it can be easily applied on the
surfaces.
• It also helps the paint in penetrating through
the porous surfaces.
 Classification of Paints

a) Classification Based on binders

• Oil paint
• Cellulos paint
• Water based paint
• Sprit based paint
b. Classification based on ultimate use

i. General purpose paints, including primers,

under-coat paints and finishing coat paints.

ii. Acid and alkali resistant paints.

iii. Fire resistant paints

iv. Fungicidal paints

v. Miscellaneous paints such as fire resistant

paints, anti-condensation paint etc.
c. General classification of paints

Aluminum paint Anti corrosive paint

Asbestos paint Bituminous and tar paint
Cellulose paint Cement paint
Oil paint Plastic paint
Synthetic rubber paint Cellulose paint
 Preparation of paint
• The colored pigment is mixed with linseed oil
separately and the paste is formed.
• Driers are also ground separately in linseed oil.

• The three pastes so prepared are mixed and a little

linseed oil is added further to soften the paste.
• The mixture is continuously stirred till a
consistency of cream is obtained.
 Preparation of paint
• The mixture is thereafter strained through fine
canvas or a sieve.
• The paint is now ready for use.

• The paint so prepared can be used by adding oil

or a thinner to make it of workable consistency
before application.
 • Mixing is done by either a manual or
mechanical method.
• Manual mixing is less efficient than mechanical
in terms of time, effort, and results.
• First pour half of the paint vehicle into a clean,
empty container.
• Stir the paint pigment that has settled to the
bottom of the container into the remaining paint
vehicle.
 • Continue to stir the paint as you return the
other half slowly to its original container.

• Stir and pour the paint from can to can.

• This process of mixing is called boxing paint.
• When necessary, tinting should be done in by
experienced personnel.
 Method of Paint Application
• The common methods of applying paint are
brushing, rolling, and spraying.
• The choice of method is based on several factors,
such as speed of application, environment, type
and amount of surface, type of coating to be
applied, desired appearance of finish, and the
training and experience of the painters.
• Brushing is the slowest method, rolling is much
faster, and spraying is usually the fastest by far.

• Brushing may leave brush marks after the paint

is dry.
• Rolling leaves a stippled effect.

• Spraying yields the smoothest finish, if done

properly. Lacquer products, such as vinyls, dry
rapidly and should be sprayed.
1. Brushes– It is necessary to have good brushes
for painting.

• The brushes should be composed of bristles and

not of horse hairs.
• Bristles brushes are elastic and possess good
paint-holding capacity.
• After the work is over, the brushes should be
cleaned with kerosene oil.
Brushing Application
2.Rolling- simple and inexpensive method of
quickly and cleanly applying a wide range of
paints to flat and textured surfaces.

• Roller heads vary in size from 50 to 450 mm

wide with various covers such as sheepskin,
synthetic pile fibers, mohair and foamed
polystyrene.
• All paint applicators must be thoroughly cleaned
after use.
3. Spray- as with brush application a high degree
of skill is required to achieve a good finish.

• Generally compressed air spray or airless sprays

are used for building works.

spry gun application

 Painting of Various Surfaces
(I) New plastered surface
The procedures for paining a new plastered
surface are:
1. Surface preparation: Paint cannot take care
of construction defects.
Before applying the paint, it is ensured that the
surface is free from dust, dirt, loose matter,
grease etc. and is rubbed with an emery paper, to
provide a mechanical key between surface and
paint for satisfactory adhesion.
2. Sequence of Painting

• The primer (first coat) is applied with brush or

spray on the prepared surface.
• It should be thinned with water or thinner in the
recommended manner and proportion before
application.
• After drying it is rubbed with emery paper.
• Dents and cracks, if any, are filled with putty
using a knife applicator.
• Putty should not be applied thick.
• If the required thickness is large, it should be
applied in two coats.
• After the putty has dried, the whole surface is
rubbed down well in order to smoothen the
putty and provide a mechanical key to the
finished coats.
• Two or three finish coats are applied. Each
coat is allowed to dry before the application of
next coat.
(II) Old plastered surface

• The procedure depends on the state of the

existing coating.
• If any of the defects is very much pronounced
it is completely removed and the surface is
painted as a new surface.
 (III) Painting of new woodwork

• Painting of woodwork should be done with great

care. Normally 3–4 coats are sufficient for wood
work.

Surface preparation: The wood should be well

seasoned, dried, cleaned and the surface made
smooth with an emery paper. Nails, if any, should
be driven down the surface by at least 3 mm.
Knotting:
• Knots in the wood create lot of problems.

• These excrete resin which causes defects such as

cracking, peeling and brown discoloration.
• Knotting is done so that resin cannot exude from
the knots.
Priming coat: The main function of priming coat or
primer is to form the base for subsequent ones.
• After knotting priming coat is applied over the
entire surface to fill all the pores.
• A second priming coat is applied after first has
dried.
• In general the ingredients are same as those of the
subsequent coats but with a difference in
proportion.
Stopping: After the priming coat putty is applied to
fill the pores of the surface. Then it is rubbed
smooth.
• Coloring pigment is also added to it to match the
shade of the finished coat.
• On drying, the selected paint is applied with
brushes to bring smoothness and uniformity in
color.
• After painting the surface in one direction, the
brush is worked in the perpendicular direction to
eliminate brush marks.
• This is known as crossing.
• All the successive coats are applied after drying
and slight rubbing of previous coats for proper
bond.
(IV) Painting of old woodwork:
• The old paint is removed with a sharp glass
piece, sand paper or paint remover.
• Any smoky or greasy substance should be
washed with lime and subsequently rubbed
with pumice stone.
• The surface is then washed with soap and
water and dried completely.
• Then two coats of paints are applied in a way
similar to that described in painting new
surfaces.
(V) Painting metal surfaces:

New ironwork: The surface should be free from

scales, rust and grease.
• Scales and rust are cleaned by hard wire brush.

• Grease is removed by using petroleum or by

hot alkaline solution of Na2CO3 or NaOH,
benzene, and lime water.
• A priming coat of red lead with barites and raw
linseed oil is then applied over the prepared
surface.
• After drying of the priming coat, one or more
undercoats with desired paint are applied.
• The second coat is given only after the first coat
has dried.
• The finishing coat is applied carefully to produce a
smooth fine surface.
Old ironwork: The surface is prepared by scraping
properly all the scales and rust with emery paper.
• The greasy substances are removed with lime
water.
• The old paint may be burned with a blow lamp or
by suitable solvents. After this the surface is
brushed with hot linseed oil and painted as for
new iron work.
 TILLING
1. Floor Tilling
• Floors are the horizontal elements of a building
structure which divide the building into different
levels for the purpose of creating more
accommodation within a limited space.
• The floor consists of following two components.
a.Sub floor (or) base course (Slab).
b.Floor covering (or) Flooring top wearing surface).
a) A sub floor (or) base course

The purpose of this component is to impart

strength and stability to support floor covering and
all other superimposed loads.
 b) Floor covering (or) Flooring
This is the covering over the sub floor and is meant
to provide a hard, clean, smooth, impervious,
durable and attractive surface to the floor.

Quality of good flooring materials

• It should be hared
• It should free from dampness
• It should be durable
• It should be easy cleaned as far as possible.
• It should be sound noiseless.
• It should be fire resistance.
• It should have good appearance.
• It should be less costly.
Factors which govern the selection of type of floor finishing

 The initial cost of floor

 Durability and strength of floor

 Appearance

 Free from , dampness, sound and heat.

 Low maintenance cost

 Surface smoothness

 Easily cleanable

 It should be hard
The types of flooring used are:
• Mud flooring
• Flag stone flooring
• Brick flooring
• Cement concrete flooring
• Terrazzo tile flooring
• Ceramic tile flooring
• Mosaic flooring
• Marble flooring
• Timber flooring
• Rubber flooring
 C c

Cross-section of Brick flooring

Cross-section Flag Stone Flooring
 Cement Concrete Floors:
• This type of flooring is most commonly used in
buildings of all types.
• The floor finish over the base course may be
placed either monolithically i.e. topping is laid
after laying the base layer, while the base is still
in plastic state or non-monolithically. i.e. floor
finish is placed after the base has hardened.
 Terrazzo Flooring
• Terrazzo is decorative flooring consists of white
or grey colored cement concrete with special
aggregate of marble chips on the surface of
concrete and then polishing until smooth.
• Terrazzo floors give a pleasing appearance and
very smooth finishes.
• They are used in residential building, office, and
public building like schools, hospitals, colleges,
banks, temple etc.
Terrazzo tiles floors are very popular nowadays because of:

 Easy and quick method of laying

 Pleasing appearance
 Easy to clean and maintain
 Method of Constructions of Tile Flooring

1.Preparation of subgrade: The subgrade is

prepared in same way as cement concrete
flooring.

2.Lying of base course

• The surface of base concrete bed should be

made rough enough for bonding.

• It is cleaned and wetted before laying tiles.

3. Laying of tiles:
• The cement slurry (grout) is spread on the base
course, for better bonding.
• The screeds are fixed and properly leveled to the
height of floor toping.
• The mortar spread, tamped and brought to the
proper level.
• It is allowed to harden for some time but not
completely.
• Cement slurry is spread over this before laying the
tiles. The terrazzo tiles are washed, cleaned and
fixed over the mortar bedding one after the other.
• They are gently tapped with a rubber (wooden)
mallet to fit closely and in level with previous tiles.
• The thickness of the joint should not exceed 2mm.
the surface of the tiles should be checked frequently
with a level.
4. Grouting and Curing
• After 24 hours of laying tiles, all joints are
cleaned to the depth of 5mm with a wire brush.
• These joints are grouted with cement slurry of
the matching color of the tiles.
• The same slurry is applied to whole surface of
flooring and curing is done for 7days.
Terrazzo Tiles
 Ceramic Floor Tiles

• This type of tile is made from ceramics.

• This is a product from refine natural clays
which are pressed after grinding and tempering
into the desired shape before being fire at high
temperature.
• It is available in different sizes; (20cmX30cm,
30cmX30cm, 60cmX60cm, etc.)
• It is mainly used for toilet floor and wall
tilling, Living and dinning rooms and it can
be applied in all types of buildings.
Ceramic floor tiles
Mosaic Flooring
It consists of a finishing coat of small pieces of broken tiles of
China glazed or of marble arranged in different patterns set in
cement mortar.
Marble Flooring
 Marble Flooring

• Marble is made of sedimentary rock.

• Marble flooring is one of the most expensive

floor finishes suitable for: Residential
buildings (Stairs, Corridor, and Kitchens),
Public and Worship places.
• Marble slabs are cut to get marble tiles of 20 to
25 mm thickness.
• They are laid on floors similar to other tiles.
With power driven machine surface is polished
to get even and shining surface.
• This type of flooring is widely used in
hospitals and temples.
• Method of Construction is Similar to tile and
terrazzo tile flooring.
 Timber Flooring

• Timber flooring is used in dancing halls, sport

halls, and in auditoriums.
• Timber plates may be directly placed on concrete
bed or may be provided over timber frame work.
• In latter case it is necessary to provide proper
ventilation below the floor.
• Wood provides an attractive finish.
• There are three typical methods of laying it to
concrete bases.
1.Strip flooring fixed to battens
2.Wood blocks set in mastic on a screed
3.Wood mosaic
 Cladding

The term cladding refers to components that are

attached to the primary structure of building to
form non-structural external surfaces .This is as
opposed to buildings in which the external
surfaces are formed by structural elements such as
masonry walls, or applied surfaces such as render.
Whilst cladding is generally attached to the
structure of the building, it typically does not
contribute to its stability. However, cladding does
play a structural role, transferring wind loads,
impact loads, snow loads and its own self weight
back to the structural framework.
Cladding is needed to:

• Create a controlled internal environment.

• Protect the building from external conditions.
• Provide privacy and security.
• Prevent the transmission of sound.
• Provide thermal insulation.
• Create external facade.
• Prevent the spread of fire.
• Generate an airtight building envelope.
• Provide openings for access, daylight and
ventilation.