Fibre to Fabric

Syllabus
• Introduction to Textile
• Fibre classification and uses
• Natural cellulosic Fibres
• Protein Fibres
• Regenerated Cellulosic Fibres
• Synthetic/Man made Fibres
• Identification of fibre samples
• Yarn production Process/Spinning
• Yarn Count
• Fabric Manufacturing Process
• Basic Fabric Structures
• NON Woven
• Automation in Fabric Manufacturing
 Introduction to Textiles
• Fibre:- It is defined as a thin fine hair like substance, Natural or
manufactured with high length to width ratio and with
appropriate properties to be processed into a fabric
• Yarn

Twisted strand of fibres that can be converted into yarn. The process of
converting fibre into yarn is called Spinning
• Fabric
Yarns are either interlaced, interloped and intermeshed together to form
Fabric.

Common methods of fabric manufacturing

Woven Fabric (produced Knitted Fabric (produced Non Woven Fabric

by weaving) by Knitted) (produced by
intermeshing of fibres)
 Chemical
Processing
• Dyeing:- It is a chemical process of applying colour to fibre, yarn, fabric
and garment using natural and synthetic dyes.
• Printing:- It is localised application of color. Generally a design is printed
onto the fabric
The final process is finishing where value addition is done. Some functional
properties are also imparted to the fabric in this process.

The finished fabric is sent for Garment manufacturing afterwards.

 Application of Textiles
• Clothing
• Household
• Medical Industry
• Transportation Industry
• Agriculture
• Geo textile
• Sports Textile
• Protection textile
• Packaging
 Indian Textile Industry
• Textile Sector in India ranks next to Agriculture.
• It provide employment to million of people in the country

• India is one of the largest producers of cotton and jute in the world.
• The textile industry has two broad segments.

• Unorganised sector consists of handloom, handicrafts and sericulture, which are operated on a small
scale and through traditional tools and methods.
• Organised sector consisting of spinning, apparel and garments segment which apply modern
machinery and techniques
 Structure of Textile Industry
• Composite Mills:- Relatively large-scale mills that integrate spinning, weaving and, sometimes, fabric finishing are
common in other major textile-producing countries. In India, however, these types of mills now account for about
only 3 percent of output in the textile sector. About 276 composite mills are now operating in India.

• Spinning:- India’s spinning sector consisted of about 1,146 small-scale independent firms and 1,599 larger scale
independent units.

• Weaving and Knitting. India’s weaving and knitting sector remains highly fragmented, small-scale, and labor-
intensive. This sector consists of about 3.9 million handlooms, 380,000 “powerloom” enterprises that operate about
1.7 million looms, and just 137,000 looms in the various composite mills. Modern shuttleless looms account for
less than 1 percent of loom capacity.

• Fabric Finishing is also dominated by a large number of independent, small scale enterprises. Overall, about 2,300
processors are operating in India, including about 2,100 independent units and 200 units that are integrated with
spinning, weaving or knitting

• Clothing. Apparel is produced by about 77,000 small-scale units classified as domestic manufacturers,
manufacturer exporters
Properties of Fiber
• Essential Properties
• Desirable properties
Essential Property
Fiber length

• Range of staple fibre varies from 2-46cm.

• Fibers or filaments finer than about 10μm tend to become too delicate
• Fibers or filaments exceeding about 50μm in thickness easily give a yarn structure which is too
coarse and too thick for comfort when used as apparel.

Fiber length to fiber breadth (diameter) ratio

• This ratio decides suitability of a fiber for spinning into yarn

• The smallest appropriate ratio of fiber length to fiber breadth (thickness) is about 350:1.
• Ratio less than this indicate a fiber which will not permit twisting of fiber into a yarn structure.
• But fiber ratio of 1000:1 or more spins into a useful yarn.
• Strength: The strength of a fibre is defined as the ability to resist stress The strength of the textile
fibres must be adequate for spinning these into a yarn as well as making and processing fabrics.

• Flexibility or pliability: It is also one of the primary requirements of textile fibres. A textile fibre
needs to be bendable. Flexibility and pliability are also important to allow the body to move
comfortably.

• Cohesiveness or spinnability: Cohesiveness is the quality of the fibres to adhere together during
spinning. For example, wool possesses scales on the outer skin of the fibre which help in
interlocking fibres while spinning.

• Uniformity: Uniformity in the length, width, cohesiveness and flexibility of fibres is required for
producing fine yarns. All man-made and synthetic fibres are uniform since they are made through
artificially controlled processing. Natural fibres, except silk, however, are not uniform. It is not
possible to produce very fine yarns from natural fibres without doing additional processing.
Desirable Properties
• Physical Shape: The physical shape of the fibre accounts for many of its properties such as the
surface contour (smooth, rough, serrated), the shape of the cross section. The shape of the cross
section influences certain factors such as lustre, body and hand. The cross sectional shape can be
changed for all artificial fibres, unlike natural fibres, by controlling how these are moulded though
spinnerets.

• Lustre:. Among the natural fibres, silk has high lustre while cotton is the dullest. All manmade
fibres are produced with lustre control processes as it is not always desirable to produce bright
fabrics. The lustre of man-made fibre is controlled by the addition of pigments such as titanium
dioxide in spinning solution. The lustre of natural and man-made fibres can also be improved by
various finishing techniques. For example, the lustre in cotton is improved by mercerization.
• Absorbency: Absorbency in the ability of fibres to take in or regain moisture. Fibres that absorb water
easily are known as hydrophilic (water loving). For example, natural protein and vegetable fibres as
well as rayon and acetate fibres are hydrophilic. Fibres that have difficulty in absorbing water are
known as hydrophobic fibres. Most of the synthetic fibres are hydrophobic in nature.

• Elasticity: Elasticity is the ability of fibres to return back to original shape after being stretched and is
expressed in percentage. If a fibre returns to its original length after being stretched, it is said to have
100% elastic recovery. Elasticity is required to cope with the stress that fabrics experience because of
the body movements of the wearer.

• Electrical Conductivity: It is the ability of a fibre to transfer or carry electrical charges. Poor or low
conductivity results in building up of static charges. This leads to the clinging of clothing and in
extreme cases can produce electrical shocks. Water is an excellent conductor of electricity and fibres
with high moisture regains will never face the problem static build-up. Synthetics are poor conductors
of water and therefore, face the problem of static charge buildup. Antistatic finishes are given to fabrics
in order to inhibit the piling up of static electricity on fabrics.
• Abrasion Resistance: It is the ability of fibres to withstand the rubbing or abrasion. This is an
important property, as it influences the durability of the fabrics. If fabrics do not tolerate rubbing,
they would get damaged easily and become unsightly.

• Thermal Properties: The thermal behaviour of fibres is also an important factor for determining
their performance and care. Among the textile fibres which are in use, some are heat sensitive and
some are not.

• Chemical Properties: Chemical reactivity is the effect of acids, alkalies, oxidizing agents and
solvents on fibres. Acid or alkali is harmful for cellulose and protein fibres. Therefore, the effect of
acid and alkali must be known during bleaching, dyeing and finishing. Different fibres react
differently with acid and alkali.
Classification of textile fibres
I. Natural fibers: Fibers which grow or develop and come from natural resources like plant and animals.
II. Manufactured (or man-made) fibers: Fibers produced by industrial processes, whether from natural
polymers transformed upon the action of chemical reagents or through polymers obtained by chemical
synthesis (synthetic fibers).
III. Mineral Fibers: Asbestos is the only naturally occurring mineral fiber that was used extensively for
making industrial products but is now restricted due to its suspected carcinogenic effect.
Classification of textile fibres
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/313633222_Luxury_Hair_Fibers_for_Fashion_Industry/link/
5cf0caec4585153c3da7b217/download
The basic unit of textile is Monomer, monomer joined together to form long chains of Polymer

MONOMER

POLYMER
 Natural Cellulosic Fibre

• Cellulose is a fibrous material of plant origin

and the basis of all natural and man-made
cellulosic fibers.

• The natural cellulosic fibers include cotton,

flax, hemp, jute, and ramie.

• Strong intermolecular forces between chains,

coupled with the high linearity of the
cellulose molecule, account for the
crystalline nature of cellulosic fibres.
Cotton
• King of Fibers, Natural Cellulosic
• One of the widely used fiber in India.
• Known for its softness
Microscopic Appearance

Cross sectional View

In cross-section, the cotton fiber is composed of
four main parts:
• a waxy layer (the cuticle), which is water
repellent and an excellent lubricant
• the primary wall, which contains natural
impurities
• the secondary wall, which is pure cellulose
• the lumen, which is the open space in the center of
the fiber through which the nutrients flow
Microscopic Appearance

Longitudinal View
• A single cotton fiber has from 150 to 400
convolutions per inch.
• The convolutions are very important to the
cohesion between fibers in a yarn, which is
necessary for strength.

The convolutions and kidney bean cross section of cotton allows it to only make
random contact with the skin thereby making it comfortable for the wearer.

https://www.cottonworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Fibers_Booklet_edited-1.pdf
Properties of Cotton Fibre
Fiber length:- Cotton fiber length depends first on the variety and then on the growing conditions. ranges
between 10mm - 42mm.Example:- Shankar 6, J-34, Pima cotton, Giza cotton

Color:- Although cotton fibers may naturally be grayish white, cream, brown, or olive green, over 99% of
cultivated cotton fiber is off-white or cream.

Strength:- Cotton fibers are moderately strong, A unique feature of cotton fiber is that it becomes 10% to 20%
stronger when wet. The strength is acceptable for most apparel and home-product end uses.
Properties of Cotton Fibre
Luster:- Cotton is a low-luster fiber, because of its convolutions. Mercerization of yarn or fabric can improve
the luster by permanently swelling the fiber.

Elasticity:- Cotton fibers are inelastic.

Moisture regain/hygroscopic nature/absorption:-Good Absorbency

Thermal Properties:- Can withstand hot ironing temperature and does not melt.
Chemical Properties of Cotton Fibre
Effect of acids:- Cotton fiber can be disintegrated by hot dilute acids or cold concentrated acids (such as
sulfuric acid), but is unaffected by cold weak acids.

Effect of alkalis:- Cotton is not adversely affected by alkalis. In fact, treatment with strong solutions of alkali,
especially sodium hydroxide, can have positive effects. For example, treatment with 25% sodium hydroxide
causes swelling and a change in the cellulosic structure, a process called mercerization.

ACID ATTACK
Applications
Apparel: T-shirt, shorts and jeans, socks, infant and kids wear are some of the apparel products that use
cotton fabric.
Home Textiles: The articles include towels, bedsheet, pillow covers, curtains, upholstery and table linen.
Industrial Textiles: Cotton fabric is used to make medical, surgical and sanitary supplies.
 Wool
• Natural protein fibre
• The term wool is generally used to
describe fiber obtained from sheep.
• Legally the hair of a few other animals
can also be called wool because its
qualities are similar to sheep's wool.
• The United States government allows
the fiber from alpaca, camel, Cashmere
goat, and Angora goat to be labeled as
wool, but these can also be labeled by
their own fiber names.

https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/wool
Microscopic Appearance

Longitudinal View and Cross sectional View

• Surface of wool has overlapping structure. These

overlapping structures are called scales pointing
towards the tip.
• Cross section of wool is oval in shape

Due to this serrated surface , felting occurs in wool which is responsible for shrinkage
of wool fibre.

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 Properties of Wool Fibre
Wool is a crimped fibre, Fine wool has around 10 crimps per cm whereas coarse wool has 4crimps per
10cm. Due to these crimps

• Wool has good warmth

• And elastic nature

Fiber length:-Wool fiber length varies from 5cm for finer wool to 35cm for longest coarse wool

Color:- off white to cream in color

Strength:- Wool fiber is a comparatively weak fibre, The low strength is due to the 70-75% amorphous region
Properties of Wool Fibre
Luster:- Wool is a dull fibre. Due to the crimped configuration, it reflects light unevenly. The wool with less
crimps will have subdued lustre.

Elasticity:- Elastic in nature due to crimped configuration and spiral structure.

Moisture regain/hygroscopic nature/absorption:-Good Absorbency due to amorphous region and chemical

groups that can attract water

Thermal Properties:- Can withstand hot temperature and does not burn easily. It smoulder.
Chemical Properties of Wool Fibre
Effect of acids:- Wool is weakened in acidic solution but does not dissolve.

Effect of alkalis:- Wool fiber is adversely affected by alkali. Alkali can dissolve wool fibre completely by
breaking the main linkages of polymer.

Can be easily attacked by moths

and insects
1.Top knot: This area has inferior wool that is very light, short, and
dirty.
2.Neck wool: This wool is very light conditioned and long-stapled. It
often contains coarse, matted lumps of inferior wool on the folds.
3.Shoulder wool: The best wool grown by sheep is obtained from the
shoulder.
4.Fleece wool: This area contains good, average wool that is usually
free from vegetable matter.
5.Breast wool: This wool is similar to shoulder wool, but is usually a little
heavier in condition.
6.Back wool: This wool is inclined to be open, weathered, and musky.
7.Britch wool: This is a coarser wool than the other portions of the
fleece and is inclined to be kempy. This wool can also be matted and/or
cotted with burrs and seeds.
8.Arm piece: This wool is very short and has very short, open fiber (
fribby) edges; burrs or seeds collect heavily on this portion of the fleece.
9.Hairy shanks: Hairy or kempy fibers containing very little wool are
found in these areas; when blended with other wools, they are used to
manufacture low quality goods such as rugs.
10.Stained wool: This wool will not wash white and is very heavy in
condition.
11.Belly wool: This is a bulky wool, heavy in condition, and usually very
burry or seedy.
Wool - Quality Evaluation and Manufacturing Processes (infovets.com)
Types of Wool
Merino Wool

The vast majority of merino sheep are bred in Australia.

This type of wool can have a diameter of under 20
microns, which makes it one of the finest types of woolen
products in existence.

Cashmere Wool
Cashmere is one of the most expensive and luxurious types of wool.
The name “cashmere” comes from the Kashmir region of India,
which is the area where the furry goats that supply cashmere wool
originated.
With hair diameters as small as 18 microns, cashmere is just as soft
and fine as merino wool.

https://www.worlds-finest-wool.com/cashmere/
Mohair Wool
Mohair wool comes from angora goats, which have
incredibly thick, wavy wool. While other types of wool
may not be highly crimped, the wavy hair of angora goats
naturally leads to high-crimp woolen textiles.

Alpaca Wool

People in South America have been breeding alpacas for

their wool for thousands of years. Younger alpacas can
yield hairs as small as 15 microns, but alpaca wool
roughens as it ages, which makes the hair fibers of older
alpacas unusable for apparel
Virgin Wool
Also known as lamb’s wool, virgin wool is wool made
from a lamb’s first shearing. This term can also refer to
wool that hasn’t been recycled.

Angora Wool

Angora wool comes from a special breed of rabbit that

produces incredibly fine and soft hair. This type of wool is
very expensive, and the rabbits that produce it are not
commonly kept in humane conditions.
https://lalouettesilk.com/blog/the-history-of-silk/
 Silk
Silk is a protein fiber made by silk worms and is the only natural fiber that is a filament fiber. Originally, it
was believed that an ancient Chinese princess was the first to discover the process for manufacturing silk
fabric from the filament fiber produced by silk worms.

How Is Silk Made?

The process of making silk is called sericulture, and it involves harvesting silkworms for the material.
1. Larvae are fed mulberry leaves.
2. After they have moulted several times, they spin a cocoon. The silk solidifies upon contact with air. This
process takes about 2 to3 days.
3. Once the cocoon is formed, it is dropped into a pot of boiling water effectively killing the pupae.
4. The silk filament is extracted by brushing the cocoon.
5. The raw silk is woven or knit into a fabric or spun into a yarn.

https://webadmin.sarahtuckercollege.edu.in/admin//Public/uploads/e-material/Zoology%20Regular/Nirmala/Silkworm%20life%20cycle.pdf
 Facts about Silk
• Silk rope is stronger than an equally thick metal wire.

• To produce 1 kg of silk, 104 kg of mulberry leaves must be eaten by 3000 silkworms.

• A single silkworm can produce up to 15 meters of filament in a minute.

• It takes roughly 5000 silkworms to make a pure silk kimono.

• A single specimen is capable of producing a 0.025 mm thick thread over 900 metres (3,000 ft)
long. Several such filaments are then twisted together to make a thread thick enough to be used
to weave material.

https://www.thelightshadestudio.co.uk/Useful-Info/History-ofSilk#:~:text=The%20production%20of%20silk%20originates,production%20for%20another%20thousand%20years.
Microscopic Appearance

Longitudinal View and Cross sectional View

• Longitudinal striations are also seen on the silk

• Triangular shape with rounded corners
Properties of Silk Fibre
Fiber Length:- Silk fiber length varies from 400 to 700 meters.

Fineness:-Silk is a very fine fiber. Its fineness varies from 11 to 12 microns.

Color:- white, golden, beige

Strength:- It is a strong fiber which is 65-70 percent crystalline and 30-35% amorphous. Wetting weakens the
fibre.

Luster:- it has got good shine

Elasticity:- Inelastic in nature

Moisture regain/hygroscopic nature/absorption:-less absorbent than wool

Thermal Properties:- Sensitive to heat

Chemical Properties of Silk Fibre
Effect of acids:- Silk is readily degraded by acid as compare to wool

Effect of alkalis:- Silk fiber is degraded easily by alkali. Yellowing of white silk and dulling of colored silk
happens with silk.
 USES
1.Bridal and formal wear. Silk is a staple of many gowns and dresses thanks to its beautiful drape, and
the long floats of yarn on one side create a dressy and lustrous appearance.
2.Ties and scarves. The material’s strength and nuances with color make it ideal for accessories. Many
high-end ties are made from heavy silk, which allows for tightly woven patterns, rich colors, and durable
material. Silk is also a great material for scarves for both decoration and for warmth.
3.Bedding. Silk sheets are the height of luxury and the material’s softness and absorbent nature makes it
truly shine in the bedroom.
4.Parachutes. Silk was originally used for parachutes for its strength and elastic properties; however
nylon is more commonly used today.
5.Upholstery. Silk is used to cover furniture and pillows, and thanks to its strength and durability, it
provides a long-lasting covering.
6.Wall hangings. Decorative wall hangings are often woven from silk, as the material is beautiful and
dynamically reacts with colors and dyes.
7.Bicycle tires. The material is sometimes used in the tire’s casing because of its lightness, durability,
and flexibility. Since silk can be expensive, the casings can also be made from nylon and cotton.
8.Surgical sutures. Since silk is a natural material, it has amazing uses in medicine. The material does
not cause an autoimmune response and cannot be absorbed by the human body.
Flax
• Natural Cellulosic
• Density of the fiber is very high, and it is considered a
heavy fiber
• Fabric made by flax is called linen.
• Flax fiber comes under the category of bast fibre and is
extracted from the plant of the linseed/flax plant This plant
is popular for two reason: one is flax fiber and another is
linseed oil extracted from the seed of the plant.
 Production And Processing Of Flax

• Grown for fibre, the plant is an annual that reaches 90-120cm. It has a single slender When the plants have
flowered and the seed are beginning to ripen, the crop is pulled up by the roots.

• Retting
The fibres are held together in the stems by woody matter and cellular tissue, and ‘retting’ is a fermentation
process that frees the fibres from these materials.

• Breaking And Scutching

The straw is passed between fluted rollers in a breaking machine, so that the woody core is broken into
fragments without damaging the fibres running through the stems. The broken straw is then subjected to the
process known as ‘scutching’, which separates the unwanted woody matter from the fibre. This is done by
beating the straw. The woody matter is removed as shive

http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Linen.html
Microscopic Appearance

Cross sectional View/Longitudinal View

• There are nodes in the cross section of flax fibres

indicating the change in spiraling direction of flax.
• It has polygonal cross section
nodes

The polymer structure is similar to cotton, however the

degree of polymerization is 18000 which is 5000 in case
of cotton.
Properties of Flax Fibre
Fiber length:- Fibre length varies from 10-100cm and has very good thickness.

Color:- light blonde

Strength:- It is stronger that cotton fibre due to longer polymer and high crystallinity.

Luster:- It has subdued lustre

Elasticity:- inelastic in nature

Moisture regain/hygroscopic nature/absorption:-Good Absorbency

Thermal Properties:- Can withstand hot ironing temperature and does not melt.
Chemical Properties of Flax Fibre
Effect of acids:- fiber can be disintegrated by hot dilute acids or cold concentrated acids (such as sulfuric acid),
but is unaffected by cold weak acids.

Effect of alkalis:- Weakening of flax happens during laundering because alkali dissolves the waxes binding the
cells present in fibre.

ACID ATTACK
Applications
Linen uses range from bed and bath fabrics (tablecloths, dish towels, bed sheets, etc.), home and commercial
furnishing items (upholstery, window treatments, etc.), apparel items .
Manufacturing of synthetics:-
• Regenerated:- Raw material is taken from nature. Viscose( Rayon),Cellulose
acetate , Tencel( sustainable)

• Man made synthetic:- raw material is prepared in laboratory:- polyester, nylon,

Polypropylene, Polyethylene ( Packaging)( light in weight and chemical resistant),
acrylic ( substitute for wool)(winter wear), Kevlar and nomex(dupont) ( High
strength , light weight fibre and they have very good heat resistant), spandex
( highly stretchable)
Synthetic fibre spinning
1. Solution Spinning
• Dry spinning
• Wet spinning

2. Melt spinning

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cn6K1m7yH0I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22VC_8xcyrs
https://www.tuppencehapenny.com/blog/fabric-of-time-rayon-part-1
 Viscose

• The term “viscose” refers specifically to the solution of wood pulp that is turned into the fabric.

• It is manufactured by wet spinning process

• As a manufactured regenerated cellulose fiber, it is neither truly natural (like cotton, wool or silk) nor truly
synthetic (like nylon or polyester) – it falls somewhere in between.

• The major sources for natural cellulose are wood pulp—usually from pine, spruce, or hemlock trees—and
cotton linters. Cotton linters are residue fibers which cling to cotton seed after the ginning process.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rayon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14PZNgRoEUM&t=7s
 Viscose is semi-synthetic due to the many chemicals
involved in the viscose process, like sodium hydroxide
and carbon disulfide.
The viscose manufacturing process is summed up in
five steps:
1.The plant is chipped into a wood pulp and dissolved
chemicals like sodium hydroxide, forming a brown
wood pulp solution.
2.This brown wood pulp is then washed, cleaned, and
bleached.
3.To create the fibers, the pulp is treated with carbon
disulfide and then dissolved in sodium hydroxide to
create the solution referred to as “viscose.”
4.The viscose solution is forced through a spinneret,
which is a machine that creates filaments, called
regenerated cellulose.
5.This regenerated cellulose is spun into yarn, which
can then be woven or knit into viscose rayon fabric.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QFOnZ3TLHQ&t=361s
Some of the most beneficial characteristics of viscose include:

•Versatile – it blends very well with other fibres

•Breathable
•Drapes well
•Excellent colour retention
•Highly absorbent
•Very smooth
•Soft and comfortable
•Inexpensive
•No static build up

Viscose is 35-40% crystalline and 60-65% amorphous.

•It can shrink when washed

•Can wrinkle easily
•Deteriorates with exposure to light
•Susceptible to mildew
•Fibres can weaken when wet
Chemical Properties of Viscose Rayon:

1.Effect of acid: Acids attack viscose rayon more quickly than they do cotton. Here temperature is a
factor. Cold solutions of acids and short time of treatment do not usually weaken the fiber. But viscose
rayon is attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated mineral acids which weaken and disintegrate the
fiber.

2.Effect of alkali: Concentrated alkali will cause swelling and reduce strength. But weak alkali does
not damage viscose.

3.Resistance to light: Prolonged exposure to sunlight forms photo cellulose and thus weakens viscose
rayon.
 Nylon

• The generic name for Nylon is polyamide. Nylon was the first commercially successful synthetic. It
was introduced in 1938 and is the second most used synthetic fibre.
• There are three main types of Nylon: Nylon 6, Nylon 6.6 and Nylon 11. The numbers refer to the
carbon atoms in the monomer
Properties
• Moisture handling Hydrophobic fibre with a natural moisture content of 1.5–4%.
• Fibre length :- Any length required
• Strong Fibre and has excellent abrasion resistance
• Effect of heat Shrinks from flame; melts and burns; sometimes described as, a thermoplastic fibre,
Nylon 6 melts at 215°C, Nylon 6.6 at 250°C
• Poor Resistance to acid
• Excellent Resistance to alkali
• Organic attack No problem
• Handling characteristics :- Reasonable handle and excellent elasticity
• Shrinkage :- Not a problem
Polyester
 Tencel
• It is a new generation viscose fibre made using an environmentally sensitive chemical path.
Properties
• Regenerated cellulose fibre, which has good wet and dry strength.
• Hydrophilic fibre with a standard regain of 6–8%.
• Poor elasticity and resilience, similar to cotton in its creasing properties.
• Easily dyed.
• Alkali-resistant; damaged by acids.
• Tencel can be blended with other fibres to produce a product that combines the best features of each fibre in the
blend.
• Versatile material that can be engineered for many end uses.
• Tencel is used for apparel.
 Tencel vs viscose
There are two main ways TENCEL differs from most other fabrics made from wood fibre:

at the chemical treatment stage. The traditional viscose process is chemically-intensive, using harmful
sodium hydroxide. Tencel replaces it with the NMMO process. The solution of N-Methylmorpholine N-
oxide is more easily recoverable, and a closed-loop solvent system means almost no solvent is dumped
into the ecosystem. Instead, it is recycled time and time again to produce new fibres and minimise
harmful waste. Lenzing AG says the solvent recovery rate for their version is an impressive 99%.
 Polypropylene
• Polypropylene was first produced in Italy in 1952. It is made by polymerising propylene gas and is
melt spun. It is very difficult to dye as a fibre and is generally dope dyed when extruded.
Properties
• Hydophobic fibre, which has a natural moisture content of 0.1%
• Fibre length Comes as continuous filament or staple of any length
• Tenacity 50–80 cn/tex, depending on tenacity (high, medium or low). A special version of this fibre
(Dyneema) is currently the strongest readily available fibre.
• Effect of heat:- has a low melting point at 135–170°C thermoplastic; heat settable; softens at 127–
160°C
• Resistance to acid :- Good
• Resistance to alkali:- Good
• Organic attack :- No problem
• Handling characteristics:- Soft handle, Lightest of all synthetic fibres
• Major polymer that is used in NON WOVEN
• Uses
• Uses include carpet, sportswear, carpet backing, thermal wear, sacks, ropes, fleecy-lined fabric,
polypropylene–wool blend blankets; outdoor uses, ropes and twine.
 Lycra

• Lycra is the elastane fibre made by Dupont. It was first made in the 1940s. It is made of 85% polyurethane
polymer.
• LYCRA® is never used alone; it is always combined with another fiber (or fibers), natural
or man-made.
• Properties
• Lycra has rubber like properties, after stretching it will recover its original length (100% recovery). It can stretch
up to seven times its length and return.
• Lycra can be readily dyed.
• Lycra has better chemical resistance than rubber.
• Lycra is resistant to sunlight, perspiration, laundering and cosmetic oil
• Stronger, more durable than rubber
• Lightweight, soft, smooth, supple
• In garments, provides a combination of comfort and fit, prevents bagging and sagging
• Abrasion resistant
• Uses
• Lycra is used in car upholstery, swimwear, active sportswear, hosiery, socks, jeans and medical items, for example,
 LYCRA

https://www.docbrown.info/page03/sms04.htm
 Acrylic
• Acrylic is made from chemicals derived from petroleum, coal, air and water. It can be either
wet or dry spun.

Properties
• May be blended with other fibres
• Melts at between 215° and 255°C
• Hydrophobic fibre. Does not absorb much water (between 1 and 3%)
• Strong
• In bi-component form is able to be texturised to resemble wool
• Excellent chemical resistance
• Excellent sunlight resistance
• Acrylic fabric is more likely to create static electricity and cling. Acrylic fabric is also flammable and can be
extremely difficult to extinguish.
Uses
• Acrylic is used in apparel, carpets, blankets, awning materials and industrial materials.
• http://www.fao.org/natural-fibres-2009/about/15-natural-fibres/en/
How to identify artificial silk:

•Cost - typically, artificial silk items will cost less. If the item is cheaply priced, then as a general
rule the chances are that it is not genuine silk.

•Colour - silk usually reflects some light and will be coated, meaning the colour will not look
‘flat’ and will shimmer. If the colouring of the silk looks like a flat, block colour, then chances are
it is not real silk.

•Smell - if you want to test whether silk is real, take a few strands of the material and set it on
fire. When burning, it will smell like burnt hair - which is a very strong, unmistakable smell.

•Touch - if you rub a piece of silk between your fingers for a while then the material will become
warm. If it stays the same temperature, then it is not genuine silk.

•It’s labelled as satin - satin does not mean silk. Some may get the two confused, but satin
products are often far cheaper than silk products.

•The ring test - pulling silk through a ring is a traditional way of checking its authenticity. The
ring will slide smoothly over real silk, while fake silk will often bunch or get caught on the ring.
Fiber Burn or melt Shrinks from flame Odor Residue Other properties
Cotton Burns only No Burning paper, leaves or wood Fine, feathery, gray ash /

Flax, hemp, jute, ramie, etc. All burning characteristics same as cotton

Rayon All burning characteristics same as cotton

Wool, mohair, cashmere, Burns only Yes Very strong odor of burning hair Black, hollow irregular bead Self – extinguishing
alpaca ， etc. which crushes easily to a
gritty, black power
Silk Same as wool, except odor is not so strong and may smell like charred or burning meat ( no sulphur content like wool)
Acetate Burn & melt Yes Combination of burning paper and vinegar Dark, hard, solid bead /

Acrylic Burn & melt Yes Broiled fish Hard, irregularly shaped bead Flame gives off black smoke

Aramid Burn & melt Yes Sweet Hard, black bead Self – extinguishing
Glass Melt only Very slowly No odor Hard, whitish bead Flame resistant fiber ； heat
from match will not cause
fiber to melt
Modacrylic Burns and melt Yes Chemical Hard, black irregular bead Self – extinguishing

Nylon Burns and melt Yes Celery Hard, cream – colored bead. drops of melted fiber may fall
If fibers are overheat ， bead from heated portion of
will become dark sample
Olefin Burns and melt Yes Chemical Hard, tan bead Flame gives off black smoke

Polyester Burns and melt Yes Sweet chemical Hard ， cream — colored Drops of melted fiber may
bead. If fibers are overheat, fall from heated portion of
bead will become dark sample; flame gives off black
smoke

Spandex Burns and melt Yes Chemical Soft, black ash /

/
 High Performance innovative Fibres
1. Meta-Aramid Fiber (Nomex): Meta-Aramid fibre is used to make industrial protective clothing, highly resistant to
temperature, chemical degradation, and abrasion. They can handle exposure to very high temperature.
2. Pera-Aramid Fiber(Kevlar): It has very high strength. Para-aramid is, among many other applications, used in bullet-
proof jackets or cut-resistant gloves.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72vOt3ggiPI,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAdD0LkEnoQ
Aramid fibers have been used extensively in body armor, vehicle armor, military helmets, protective gloves, and fireproof
suits for firefighters.
3. Carbon Fiber: The properties of a carbon fiber part are close to that of steel and the weight is close to that of plastic.
It is Corrosion resistant, chemically stable, fire resistance, strong, temperature tolerant and very popular in many
industries such as aerospace, automotive, military applications.

4. Glass Fiber: It is very strong fibre. Glass fibre in fabric form offers an excellent combination of properties from high
strength to fire resistance.
Glass fibres exhibit useful bulk properties such as hardness, transparency, resistance to chemical attack, stability, and
inertness, as well as desirable fibre properties such as strength, flexibility, and stiffness.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pCqI6eg5WA
meta-aramid it is rather present in PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) such as motor racing
suits, or firemen's equipment, alone, or combined if necessary with other fibres, such as para
aramid to improve the breaking strength of the suit for example.
5.Polypropylene Fiber: Polypropylene is also called PP. They are light in weight & flexible.It does not absorb
moisture. Low moisture regain is not considered a disadvantage because it helps in quick transport of moisture as is
required in special applications like babies’ ever-dry nappies.It has excellent chemical resistance. PP fibres are very
resistant to most acids and alkalis.

6. Spandex Fiber: Spandex is one kind of synthetic fiber which is used in clothing, hose, sportswear etc. Due to its
elasticity, it is used to make many stretchable clothing.

7. PBI: Polybenzimidazole (PBI) is the only textile fiber, either commercial or developmental, which under normal
conditions is nonflammable in air, emits little or no smoke, and produces virtually no toxic off gases up to a
temperature of 560°C. PBI also has the textile processing properties of polyester, and garments made from PBI have a
high level of comfort. high-performance protective apparel such as firefighter's gear, astronaut space suits, high
temperature protective gloves, welders’ apparel and aircraft wall fabrics

8. Tencel Fiber: Tencel is made from plant materials like bamboo, cotton etc. Tencel fiber is used in the oil industry
for filtration, medical textiles and industrial fabrics.
https://www.servicethread.com/blog/what-are-the-differences-between-meta-aramid-and-para-aramid-yarns
https://www.materialsciencejournal.org/vol14no1/carbon-fibres-production-properties-and-potential-use/
https://www.technicaltextile.net/articles/glass-fibre-7098
 • Dyneema:- the world’s strongest fiber™. Dyneema® is a versatile, low-weight, high-strength
Polyethylene fiber that offers maximum strength combined with minimum weight.
• On a weight-for-weight basis, it is up to 15 times stronger than steel and up to 40% stronger than
aramid fibers. Dyneema® floats on water and is extremely durable and resistant to moisture, UV light
and chemicals. Dyneema® fiber is an important component in not only body armor, but also ropes,
cables and nets in the fishing, shipping industries. It is also used in safety gloves for the metalworking
industry and as fine yarns for applications in sporting goods and the medical sector.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=120&v=GQaI4qqbLpU&embeds_euri=https%3A%2F%2Ffanyv88.com%3A443%2Fhttps%2Ffibrxl.com%2F&feat
ure=emb_logo
https://osnf.com/uhmwpe-vs-kevlar/
Dyneema rope VS steel rope - strength test - break test - YouTube
 Types of
Yarn

SPUN/STAPLE YARNS FILAMENT YARNS

 SPUN OR STAPLE
YARNS
• Spun yarns are composed of short staple fibres, or long filament fibres that have been cut into short
staple fibres.
• Spun yarns may contain fibres of the same type or a blend of different fibres.
 FILAMENT
YARNS
Majority of the filament yarns are extruded yarns that are made of natural extruded fibres or manufactured fibres
extruded through the spinneret. These yarns fibres can be broadly divided into:
1. Monofilament yarn is made from a single, relatively thicker filament fibre. Silk is too fine to be used as a
monofilament yarn.
2. Multifilament yarn is made from multiple filament fibres.
https://www.swicofil.com/commerce/basic-information/yarn-manual/twist-direction
 Classification of yarn according
to their use
1. Weaving yarn
Yarns which are made for weaving purpose should have following properties:
• Yarn of lengthwise direction should be stronger.
• They should have a tighter twist.
• They should be smoother
• They should more even
Knitting Yarn
• Knitting yarns are twisted more slackly than weaving
yarns.
On the basis of their structure, yarns are broadly classified into three types
i) Simple yarns ii) Complex/Novelty yarns iii) Textured yarns

Simple Yarns :- A yarn which is smooth and uniform and evenly twisted is
called a simple yarn. It is commonly used for making fabric like poplin and
cambric.
• Complex/Novelty Yarns :- Complex yarns are the uneven yarns which may be thick and thin
or have curls, loops, twists and even differently coloured areas along their length. Due to this fancy
look of the yarns they are used to add interesting effects in fabrics.
Novelty yarns, typically made of two or more stands, are produced toprovide decorative surface
effects.
• Based on the purpose, each strand is referred to as base/core, effect, or binder.
- The base/core strand provides the structure and strength.
- The effect strand creates decorative detail such as knots and loops.
-The binder is used to tie the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary.

https://www.pinterest.com/muhammadzohaibfazal/fancy-yarns/
 Slub
yarn
This is a yarn with thick and thin placing by varying the
amount of twist in the yarn at regular intervals.
Basically we find it in drapery and upholstery fabrics.
Nub yarns are ply yarns in which an effect yarn is twisted around a base yarn a number of times in a small
area to cause an enlarged bump or "nub.' Sometimes a binder yarn is used to hold the nubs in place. The
spacing of the nubs may be at regular or irregular intervals. Nubs are often different colors than the
base yarn. The terms knot, spot, or knop are also applied to this type of yarn.
An effect yarn (so-called because it is used to create decorative effects) forms
irregular loops around a base yarn or yarns. Another yarn binds or ties the effect
yarn to the base.
 Snarl yarns
These yarns are produced by plying process. The profile
component is a highly twisted yarns

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/751/fancy-yarns-for-fashion
 Chenille yarn
This was made originally by the Leno weaving Two weft yarns are placed between each
crossing of the warp yarns. After weaving the weft ,length extended between the warp
yarns is cut to produce the pile effect .

https://www.masterclass.com/articles/what-is-chenille#what-is-chenille-used-to-make
https://www.slideshare.net/KarimLebowski/chenille-fancy-yarn
What Is Chenille Used to Make?

•Carpets and rugs. Making rugs and carpets is one of the primary uses for chenille. Chenille
carpeting is durable with a soft, deep pile. The dense concentration of the fuzzy yarn creates
a very plush product.
•Blankets and throws. The soft, fuzzy material is perfect for warm bedspreads or accent
throws on couches and chairs.
•Home decor. Chenille upholstery fabric is very popular for chairs, couches, and pillows, and
chenille is also ideal for drapery fabric and window coverings.
•Shawls. Chenille was initially developed as a textile to make shawls thanks to its soft feel
and beautiful drape.
•Clothing. In recent years, with the increased production of chenille, the textile has become
popular for garments, such as dresses, blouses, and more.
 Marl yarn

• This is the simplest fancy yarn. In this fancy yarn, two yarns of
different colours are twisted together in the yarn doubling
process.

https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/basic-idea-fancy-yarn/
 Diamond Yarn

A diamond yarn is produced by folding a coarse single yarn or roving with a fine yarn or filament
of contrasting colour using an S-twist. This is cabled with similar fine yarn using Z-twist.

https://www.textileadvisor.com/2021/03/different-types-of-fancy-yarns.html
Weaknesses of novelty yarns
•Novelty yarns are often weak and have poor abrasion resistance.
•Novelty bulky yarns may make the fabric hard to handle.
•Fabrics made from novelty yarns are generally not durable as they are susceptible to wear from abrasion.
•The parts of a novelty yarn exposed beyond the surface of the ground ply are particularly vulnerable to
abrasion.
•These yarns should be avoided for manufacturing those fabrics where durability and long wear is required.

https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4706
http://www.ijera.com/papers/Vol2_issue3/SS2331093117.pdf
 Textured yarns and types
Textured yarns are made of fully drawn filament fibres with a changed surface,
shape and texture developed by using the new spinning techniques. Nylon and
polyester are two main fibres that are textured.

Textured yarns provide many variations in fabric properties. There are two
main types of textured yarns:

1. Stretch yarns
2. Bulk yarns
TEXTURED YARNS AND TYPES
https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116/102/116102053/
Stretch yarn can be made by using special heat setting treatment to
thermoplastic filament fibres such as nylon and polyester. These
types of yarn provide better extensibility and good recovery and are
produced by edge crimping

Bulk Yarns are softer and much pliable then tightly constructed
twisted yarns. They have no stretch and high bulk. Bulk yarns are also
have a better cover. They create a less transparent fabrics and are of
two types. They are produced by Edge crimping, stuffer box, air jet
and knit-de-knit processes.
What are the benefits of textured
yarns?
• One of the most important advantages of textured yarn is that it
gives good comfort.
• It also provides better pill resistance, dimensional resistance and
improved crease resistance.
• They have fuller and better appearance.
• Comes with easy to wash and dry characteristics with better
shape retention ability.
https://www.textilesphere.com/2020/05/yarn-texturing.html
 WOOLEN AND WORSTED: WHAT DOES IT MEAN?

When you touch worsted yarn, it tends

to feel heavier and very even.

Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel

textured and have a halo, and if the
fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will
be flying their fuzzy freak flag.

https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/2018/01/26/woolen-wo
rsted-mean/
Worsted wool comes from sheep with really long wool (long-staple)
• Woolen wool usually comes from sheep with shorter
wool fibres
• Worsted Yarns
Have a long staple length (4 inch fibers and longer only)
• Are carded and combed
• Have a tight twist in spinning
• Are stronger
• Are finer, smoother, and have more even fibers
• Are harder
• Woolen Yarns
• Have a short staple (1 - 4 inch long fibers)
• Are carded only
• Have a slack twist
• Are weaker
• Are bulkier
• Are softer
Different types of yarn according to
manufacturing

RING YARN AND COMPACT YARN

RING YARN PROCESS
In this process bale is first opened and cleaned in blow room. After
opening and cleaning, individualization of fibres takes place during
carding and neps are also removed. The final product of carding is
SLIVER. The sliver is then drafted in draw frame and converted into
lap. The lap is then combed to removed shorter fibres .After that the
sliver is drafted again in finisher draw frame.False twist is inserted
during simplex process and roving is formed. The roving is twisted
during ring spinning and ring spun yarn is formed.

https://www.textileschool.com/317/ring-spinning-the-widely-used-yarn-formation-technique/
http://textilescommittee.nic.in/sites/default/files/spin2.pdf
 Rotor Yarn/ Open end yarn
Rotor spun yarn, also known as open-end yarn, was developed in the 1970s
and early 1980s. The system spins yarn directly from slivers.
Open-end spinning requires fewer steps than ring spinning, because roving is
not needed, and a full-sized package is made directly on the machine. Rotor
spinning is about seven times as fast as ring spinning, but produces weaker
yarn in a smaller range of yarn counts.
DREF Yarn
A yarn in which a base yarn is
completely wrapped by a
second yarn.
 Blend yarns
• According to W. Klein (2010), neither natural nor man-made fibres are
optimally suited to certain fields of use, but a blend of these two fibre
types can give the required characteristics. In such cases, a blending
step is the obvious solution.
• Technically, the blended yarn is the yarn which has several types of
fibers blended together. They exude a blended characteristic which is
completely unique. Mainly, two or more constituents are blended
together to get a desired product.
• constituents are blended together to get a desired
product.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/291009991_Effect_of_Fibre_Blend_Ratios_on_Yarn_Properties
 Reasons why fibres are blended
1.The important reason for blending fibers is to produce better performance. By blending we can improve the
characteristics that are poor in one fiber, by blending it with another type of fabrics that excel in those
characteristics For example polyester when blended with cotton, the resultant fabric has moderate absorbency
which is almost nil in polyester.

2.To improve the texture: Hand or feel and appearance of fabrics blending of wool fibers with polyester
produce the desired texture for suiting materials. Viscose, when blended with cotton, improves it’s luster and
softness and thereby enhances it’s appearance.

3.To reduce the cost: This is sometimes one of the important reasons for blending of
fibers. The cost of a very expensive fabric can often be reduced by blending with another cheap fiber. For
example, expensive wool is blended with cheaper polyester to reduce the cost.

4.To produce cross-dyed effects: Fibres with unlike dye affinity are combined and dyed together so that it
produces interesting cross dyes effects as one fiber take up the color and the other retains its original color.

https://www.textileschool.com/265/blended-fabrics-textile-composites/
 https://styleclinic.co/fabric-matters-blended-fabrics/
Popular/Common Blend composition
The more popular blended fabrics
include:
• Polyester / Cotton Here’s a breakdown of what the most common fibers bring to a blend:
•Spandex adds elasticity and comfort.
• Nylon / Wool •Polyester gives wash and wear benefits, increases wrinkle resistance,
• Polyester / Wool shape retention and durability and lowers the fabric cost.
•Rayon improves moisture absorbency, attracts less static and adds
• Cotton / Lycra luster.
•Acrylic improves softness and gives the fabric wool-like qualities.
• Wool / Cotton •Acetate adds luster and shine, lowers the cost of the fabric and
• Linen / Cotton improves drapeability.
•Cotton lessens static, increases absorbency, comfort, and dye-ability.
• Linen / Silk •Wool adds warm and bulk, helps retain shape, increases absorbency
and wrinkle resistance.
• Linen / Rayon •Silk adds comfort, luster, and prestige.
• Silk / Wool •Angora hair adds fluffiness.

• Rayon / Cotton
Sl.No. Blends End uses Contribution of fibres to end use
1 Poly/cotton Shirtings, suitings, uniforms, Polyester contributes to durability and
dresses, casual wear etc. wrinkle resistance.
Cotton contributes to comfort.
2 Poly/viscose Uniforms, Suitings, Pants, skirts Polyester contributes to resiliency shape
etc. retention, improves wet strength.
Viscose contributes to absorbency and
texture.
3 Cotton/viscose Dresses, suits, sportswear, Sarees, Cotton contributes to comfort.
men's shirts etc. Viscose gives lustre & softness to blend.

4 Acrylic/cotton Sweaters Acrylic contributes to softness, warmthness

and durability.
Cotton contributes to comfort.
5 Poly/acrylic Overcoats, blankets etc. Polyester contributes to strength.
Acrylic contributes to soft handle and
warmth.
6 Poly/wool Suitings Polyester for shape retention, to reduce cost
of blended fabric.
Wool provides warmth, resiliency,
drapability.

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7377/cotton-blended-yarns-a-review-of-present-status
Polyester-wool Suiting Fabrics
• The excellent shape retention of polyester is the foremost contribution to
worsted fabrics which show poor shape retention.
• Polyester provides excellent wrinkle resistance and crease retention that
contributes to shaping retention whether wet or dry. Depending on the blend
ration polyester increases the strength of wool fabrics. Wool provides warmth
resiliency, drapability, and absorbency depending on the blend ratio.
• Blends of polyester and wool are available in ranges from 65% polyester and
35% wool to 50/50, 55/45 respectively. A blend of 65/35 will be suitable to
produce a light weight, all season suiting. For medium weight worsteds 60/40
blend is suitable. When more warmth is required 50/50 blends should have
opted.
Polyester Viscose
• The blend of polyester with viscose contributes durability, resiliency and shape
retention.
• The wet strength of the resultant fabric is also improved, viscose provides
absorbency, soft texture, and variety of color. A blend of polyester and viscose
generally ranges from 65% of polyester and 35% viscose to 55/45, 45/55, 48/52
respectively. Among these blend levels, 48/52 and 65/35 are commonly used for
school uniforms and suiting materials.
 Sewing thread

Sewing threads are special kinds of

yarns that are engineered and
designed to pass through a sewing
machine rapidly. They form efficient
stitches without breaking or becoming
distorted during the useful life of the
product. The basic function of a thread
is to deliver aesthetics and
performance in stitches and seams.

https://madetosew.com/sewing-threads-and-uses/
https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-thread-types/
 Properties of sewing thread

• Good tensile strength to grip the seam firmly during wear and wash. The tensile strength should be higher than that of the
fabric so that it won’t rupture during the stretch at the seams. Also, it would mean minimum thread breakage during sewing.
• Higher initial modulus of thread guarantees the minimum of thread deformation during shock loading while sewing in the
machine.
• Smooth surface without any abnormalities in the thread results in a minimum of friction between the needle and sewing
thread while sewing at high speed.
• Uniform thickness of the sewing thread provides for smooth passage of the thread through the needle and the fabric.
• Good color fastness of the thread makes it resistant to the various chemical and physical agents the thread is exposed to
during manufacturing and during its useful life specially during washing, perspiration, sublimation, etc. This ensures no
bleeding of the color into the garment. Also, it should be dyed evenly and uniformly.
• Lower shrinkage characteristics of the thread are very important as it can cause a critical defect in the garment in the form
of puckering at the seams. Cotton thread usually undergoes washing shrinkage while synthetic thread suffers from thermal
shrinkage during ironing.
• Better chemical resistance as the sewing thread may be subjected to various chemicals during washing, bleaching, dry
cleaning, etc.
• Higher abrasion resistance provides a good sewing performance and makes the thread more durable meaning it would
return to its original shape after the tension is removed maintaining its physical properties. Nylon and polyester offer the best
resistance to abrasion.
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2020/05/types-of-sewing-threads-its-properties.html
Classification of sewing thread

Sewing thread can be classified in the following three ways:

• Substrate
• Construction
• Finish
 Sewing Thread Classification According To
Substrate
According to substrate threads can be classified into two main
categories: natural and synthetic.
 Cotton thread
Cotton is the most used natural sewing thread and ideal for basic sewing. It has better sew ability .When sewing
machines run for a long time needle generates heat which can easily be absorbed by cotton thread. It can easily be
dyed and also well molded into the seams. Strength and abrasion resistance are not so good as compared to
synthetic threads. Cotton thread can be classified into three categories as follows:
1. Soft
2. Glace and
3. Mercerized

Uses
1. Tea bag string
2. Soft finished threads are used in the low graded garments.
3. Glazed threads are used for sewing heavy materials, leather and
canvas.
4. Mercerized cotton threads are used in the lingerie products and also
for garment dye program.
Silk thread
Silk thread is costly compared to cotton thread. There are mainly three types of silk thread. They are lightweight, medium
weight and heavy weight. Though silk thread is known for its use on embroidery purpose, it is also used for sewing silk
and woolen products.

Uses
1. Used for embroidery purposes.
2. Hand sewing and embellishment purposes.
3. Coarser silk threads are used for quilting, making
appliques, bindings and tailoring button holes.
4. Light weight silk threads are used for delicate fabrics.

https://textileapex.blogspot.com/2018/12/sewing-thread-definition-type-uses.html
Woolen thread

Woolen threads are stronger than cotton and linen threads and used for embroidery projects and also for making stitches
on blankets.

Uses

1. Used for embroidery purposes.

2. Used for making stitches on blankets.
3. Stitching heavy weight fabrics like canvas and woolen.
Linen thread
Linen is the oldest textile sewing thread. It is suitable for lock stitch seams. It is very easy to dye and swells when wet.

Uses
1. Bedding and mattress.
2. Book binding.
3. Canvas.
4. Carpets.
5. Lace.
6. Outdoor goods and sports.
7. Automotive industries.
Polyester threads
Polyester threads are stronger and have excellent sew ability. Lubrication is done to make these ready to easily pass
through the fabric or leather with little friction. These are suitable for sewing knitted, woven or leather products
according to construction and finishes. These are shinier to look at than plain cotton threads.

Uses
1. Blouses
2. Jeans
3. Lingerie
4. Shirts
5. Suits
6. Uniforms
7. Swimwear
Nylon thread
It is stronger, finer and more durable sewing synthetic thread. It is suitable for sewing light to medium weight clothing.
Sometimes it is specially lubricated for high temperature resistance and better performance without breakage or staining.

Uses
1. Leather footwear
2. Leather goods
3. Luggage and travel goods
4. Outdoor goods
5. Sports goods

https://coats.com/en/information-hub/Selecting-Your-Sewing-Threads
Sewing Thread Classification According To Construction
Spun thread
Spun thread can be made of either from natural fibre or from synthetic fibre. The most common used spun thread is polyester.
Staple or spun thread is made from short length fibres. Cotton, wool, flax etc. are natural staple fibres. Synthetic fibres such as
polyester or acrylic can be cut into short length and twisted together to create spun or staple thread. Durable and long lasting
seams can be made with staple or spun thread.

Core-spun thread
It is an industrial thread. Core-spun means continuous filament is in center and staple fibres are mess up around it. It is 40% to
50% stronger than normal spun thread of same weight. Core-spun thread can reduce the number of broken stitches during
sewing seams or hems on heavy weight fabric like denim.

Filament thread
It can be made of a single filament or by twisting more than one filament together or by a little twist of bulk filaments.
Sewing Thread Classification Based On Finishes

Finishes are given to a thread for two purposes

1. To improve sewability
Some finishes involve increasing strength, abrasion resistance and lubrication
of the thread.
2. To achieve a specific functional requirement
Some finishes include bonding, non wick, anti-fungal, fire retardant, water
repellent and anti-static finishes.

https://coats.com/en/information-hub/Selecting-Your-Sewing-Threads
 Yarn Count

“Every yarn will have a count whether it's a weaving

yarn, a knitting yarn or a crochet thread. A spinner is
spinning to a count even if the yarn is subsequently
going to be called "Double Knitting" or "Tkt 12" - it's like
spinning to the correct recipe regardless of how the yarn
is going to be used or named.”

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 Yarn Count
• Yarn Count is an integral part of the
Textile industry. The spinning mills or
weaving mills can not run without this
term.
• Yarn count refers to the thickness of a yarn.
• The yarn count is a numerical expression
which defines its fineness or coarseness. It
also expresses weather the yarn is thick or
thin.
• A definition is given by the textile institute –
“Count is a number which indicates the
mass per unit length or the length per unit
mass of yarn.”
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• Types Of Yarn Count

- Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.

- Direct system- Tex, Denier

• Fixed-length systems(Direct system): the thicker the yarn, the

higher the count.
• Fixed-weight systems( Indirect system): the thicker the yarn, the
lower the count.

In direct system if there are two yarns of 20 and 30 count each, 30

count yarn will be thicker and 20 will be thinner and for indirect count
it is completely opposite.
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Indirect Count
• The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in
one weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The
system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen etc.

wxL
• Indirect count: N= ………………
WXl
Where, W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the system.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
• English system/ British Count/ Cotton Count: It is
defined as the number of hanks (840 yds) per pound.

Length (yds) 1 pound

English count N = ……………… X ………………….....
840 yds Weight (Pound)

This count is denoted as S and Ne. The thicker the yarn, the smaller
the S value of the yarn, for example, the 40S yarn is thinner than the
20S yarn.

30 Ne(cotton count) indicates that 30 x 840 yards of yarn

weight 1 pound.
On one cone there are 9800 m yarns which weigh
490 gm. What is the English count of this yarn?
• Linen count (lea):
The number of hanks of 300 yards in a pound is called linen count (lea). It is specially used to express the
fineness of flax (linen) yarn. The yarn becomes finer when the count increases in this system

• Worsted count:

The number of hanks of 560 yards in one pound of yarn is called worsted count. It is used to express the
fineness of the worsted yarn.

• Woollen count (YSW):

The number of hanks of 256 yards in one pound of yarn is called woollen count (YSW). As the system name
indicates, it is used to express the count of woollen yarn.

• New metric count (Nm):

The length of yarn in meters of one gram of yarn or length of yarn in kilometres of one kilogram of yarn is called
new metric count(Nm). The yarn becomes finer when Nm increases. It is generally used to express the count of
cotton and sometimes for flax yarn. Nm of yarn is found by following the below method:
Count system Yarn Definition

Cotton count (cc or ne) Cottons 840 yards/pound

Worsted count (wc) Wools 560 yards/pound

Linen count (lea or nel) Linen 300 yards/pound

Numero metric count (nm or mc) Silks 1000 meters/kilo

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Direct Count

The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count,
coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk, etc.

WXl
Direct count: N = …………
wXL
Where,
N = The yarn number or, count.
W = The weight of the sample.
w = The unit weight of the sample.
L = The length of the sample.
l = The unit length of the sample.
• Denier
This system is most commonly used to express the count of a continuous filament yarn of man-made or
re-generated fires. The weight of yarn in grams of 9000 meters of yarn is called denier of a yarn. The yarn
becomes coarser as the denier of a yarn increases. It is very simple to find out the denier of any yarn.
• Tex:

It is generally used to express the fineness of continuous filament yarn. The weight in grams of 1000
meters of yarn is called the tex of a yarn. When the tex of yarn increases, the yarn becomes coarser.
• DECI TEX:

Weight in grams of 10000 Metres of yarn is called deci-tex of yarn.

• MILLI-TEX:

Weight in milligrams of 1000 meters of yarn is called millitex of yarn.

• Lbs. count (Jute count):

The weight in pounds ( lbs.) of 14400 yards of yarn is called jute count (lbs.) of a yarn. It is used to
express the fineness ( count) of jute yarn.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0vPNZbHDKI
Count of ply yarn
• All counts have two numbers - one is the count and one is the number
of strands (or ends) that have been twisted together to create that yarn.
• A single yarn where you can't untwist it may not be listed with a
second number, but would technically be /1 as there is just one strand.
• Most yarns have a number of single ends twisted together to create a
thicker yarn and they will be stated as /2, /3, /4 etc.
 • The yarn count of each ply tells you what the length per
weight would be if the yarn were only a single ply.

• The number of plies tells you how many individual spun

strands make up the yarn. This is commonly a 1 or 2, for
either an unplied or a two ply yarn but can be more.

• The unit of measure says what measurement system the

yarn count is given in.

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 RESULTANT COUNT
• When the two or more plies of the same or different counts are twisted together or grouped together, a new
count of yarn results. The term resultant count is used for these multi plies yarn. The resultant count of
yarn is calculated as follows.
• If R1 and R2 are the counts of two different yarn( Yarn counts are in the indirect system). After doubling or
grouping together the resultant count R will be:

• If these yarn counts are in the direct system then the resultant count will be:

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 Resultant count of ply yarn
• Find out the resulted count when one end of the 20s;
two ends of 30s; three ends of 40s are twisted
together?
• Solution:
• Resultant count will be = Reciprocal of (1/20 + 2/30 +
3/40)
• …………………1
= ……………………………….
…..1/20 + 2/30 + 3/40
• https://www.textilecalculations.com/how-to-determine-resultant-count/
= 5.21 (ANS)