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    Assam Textile

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    Rishab Nigam
    The document summarizes traditional textiles and costumes from Assam, India. It describes two main types of silk produced in Assam - Muga silk from the Muga silkworm that feeds on som and sualu leaves, and Eri silk from silkworms that feed on castor plants. It also mentions Pat silk and Tussar silk produced in the region. The traditional weaving is done using handlooms. Common motifs in the fabrics include flowers, plants, animals and objects from nature. The main traditional costumes are the Mekhala Chador worn by women, and the Dhoti and Sula worn by men. Accessories include the Gamocha scarf and Jaapi bamboo hat.

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    Assam Textile

    Uploaded by

    Rishab Nigam
    560 views32 pages
    The document summarizes traditional textiles and costumes from Assam, India. It describes two main types of silk produced in Assam - Muga silk from the Muga silkworm that feeds on som and sualu leaves, and Eri silk from silkworms that feed on castor plants. It also mentions Pat silk and Tussar silk produced in the region. The traditional weaving is done using handlooms. Common motifs in the fabrics include flowers, plants, animals and objects from nature. The main traditional costumes are the Mekhala Chador worn by women, and the Dhoti and Sula worn by men. Accessories include the Gamocha scarf and Jaapi bamboo hat.

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    The document summarizes traditional textiles and costumes from Assam, India. It describes two main types of silk produced in Assam - Muga silk from the Muga silkworm that feeds on som and sualu leaves, and Eri silk from silkworms that feed on castor plants. It also mentions Pat silk and Tussar silk produced in the region. The traditional weaving is done using handlooms. Common motifs in the fabrics include flowers, plants, animals and objects from nature. The main traditional costumes are the Mekhala Chador worn by women, and the Dhoti and Sula worn by men. Accessories include the Gamocha scarf and Jaapi bamboo hat.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
    560 views32 pages

    Assam Textile

    Uploaded by

    Rishab Nigam
    The document summarizes traditional textiles and costumes from Assam, India. It describes two main types of silk produced in Assam - Muga silk from the Muga silkworm that feeds on som and sualu leaves, and Eri silk from silkworms that feed on castor plants. It also mentions Pat silk and Tussar silk produced in the region. The traditional weaving is done using handlooms. Common motifs in the fabrics include flowers, plants, animals and objects from nature. The main traditional costumes are the Mekhala Chador worn by women, and the Dhoti and Sula worn by men. Accessories include the Gamocha scarf and Jaapi bamboo hat.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pptx, pdf, or txt
    of 32

    HODF

    Assam Textiles & Costumes, Eri & Muga Silk

    By: Saurabh Singh FD 4th

    Introduction
    The word Assam is appropriately derived from the Sanskrit word akhom, meaning valley. This beautiful state is known for its natural beauty, cultural richness and diversity. An astonishing variety of flora and fauna, several meandering rivers and streams, and a luxuriant cover of foliage lend it a freshness and vibrancy. The majestic Brahmaputra River that flows through the state is, quite naturally, its most striking feature.

    Sericulture
    The cultivation of the host plant. Strains of silk worms, developed at the Central Silkworm Feed Station. Rearing of silkworms. The treatment and disposal of cocoons.

    Muga silkworms on som tree.

    Muga Silk: Muga silk is the product of the silkworm Antheraea


    assamensis endemic to Assam. The larvae of these moths feed on som and sualu leaves. The silk produced is known for its glossy fine texture and durability. Due to its low porosity the Muga yarn cannot be bleached or dyed and its natural golden colour is retained. This silk can be hand-washed with its lustre increasing after every wash.

    Sualu tree

    Som tree

    Muga eggs Muga Cocoons

    Muga worms

    Muga Fibers

    Riha

    Eri Silk: Eri silk is made by Samia cynthia ricini which feed on leaves
    of Castor oil plant .It is also known as Endi or Errandi silk. Because manufacturing process of Eri allows the pupae to develop into adults and only the open ended cocoons are used for turning into silk, it is also popularly known as non-violent silk. This silk is soft and warm and is popular as shawls and quilts.

    2 1
    1. Eri silk caterpillar 2. Eri silk cocoons 3. Eri spun silk yarn

    1. Eri silk scarf 2. Eri silk scarf spun ikat 3. Natural dyed eri silk with raw silk border

    Pat Silk: Pat silk is produced by silkworms which feed on mulberry


    leaves. It is usually brilliant white or off-white in colour. Its cloth can dry in shadow.

    Tussar silk: Tussar ,Tushar, Tassar or Tusser or Simply Bhalgapur


    Silk is a Kind of Silk Produces Mostly in Bhagalpur, Jharkhand & Assam. Various Sarees are made from this silk Tussar saree are made in Bhagalpur & Bishnupur Baluchari sarees are made from this silk. Apart from the saree itself, Tussar Silk is also used to make other dresses such as salwar-kameez, lehengas, dupattas, jackets, shirts and achkans. It lends itself beautifully to printing and painting and is being increasingly used innovatively in designer boutique.

    Tussar silk fabric

    Tussar silk yarn

    White Tussar silk sari with Kantha stitch embroidery

    Weaving
    Weaving is done with handlooms i.e. throw-shuttle looms. The handloom items include mekhela, chador, saris, shawls, kurtis and madeups with traditional tribal patterns and motifs peculiar to the Bodo, Mishing, Karbi and Dimasa tribes. The main feature of Assamese handlooms is vertical and horizontal stripes in different colors.

    Raw Materials
    The basic raw material used is acrylic, cotton and silk.

    Tools
    The tools necessary for weaving consist of yarns (acrylic, cotton or silk), spindle, spinning machine, warp drum or pegs and a loom (throw -shuttle).

    Throw-shuttle loom

    Artistic Weaves of Assam

    Motifs
    The designs and motifs of Assamese fabrics are inspired from nature, and from familiar objects that surround them. Diamonds in different characters form an interesting part of Assamese design. Animals, birds, plants and flowers etc. form important textile motifs. Juhi is a prominent floral motif depicted with six or seven small petals. An interesting tree motif is widely used as a side motif. Animal and bird motifs include figures of peacocks, parrots, pigeons, lions, horses and elephants. Some other typical motifs include a horseman with a fan, dragon, a diya stand, and a fan.

    Mekhela Chador with Kaziranga Motifs

    Muga silk chador with Gosh motifs meaning tree

    Costumes
    Mekhala Chador Riha Gamocha Dhoti Sola / fatua Vest or eri- chador Jaapi

    Female Costume
    The mekhla chador is the traditional attire of the women of Assam, a state in the North-East India. It is a two-piece ensemble and resembles the sari the lower part, called a mekhla is neatly pleated and tucked into the petticoat in the front. The upper piece, called a chador is also tucked at the waist and taken over the left shoulder as a pallu. Riha is Wrapped below the chador. A typical mekhala chador is made of white or golden Assamese silk with prominent thread work done in red along the lower border.

    Riha
    Riha was earlier used in the place of blouse over which the chador was worn. Riha was used when the blouse or bra were not introduced. But after when the blouse came into fashion the Riha was only used by the brides which is wrapped below the chador.

    A set of mekhela chadors made with Muga silk from Assam arranged around a Jaapi and set on a shawl made with Eri silk.

    Mekhala Chador

    Male Costume
    The men wear dhotis, usually of silk. Sula, a kind of shirt similar to the angarakha, is a traditional upper garment worn by Assamese men.

    Tongali

    Gamocha: Gamocha is a traditional piece of woven cloth that has multiple uses.
    Made of cotton or silk, it is used as a towel, and every house possesses these. Typically in red and white, the gamochas a plain field with a narrow or wide border on both or either of the sides. Gamochas are adorned with a wide of motifs, both floral and geometrical.

    A Gamocha made from Pat silk with intricate Designs.

    A Gamocha border with a traditional hand woven motif called gosh.

    Jaapi: Typical regular use Jaapi is


    made out of tightly woven bamboo and/or cane and taku paat . The name, jaapi comes after the word jaap, bundle of taku leaves. Once upon a time, jaapis were very important for Assamese folk, while decorative jaapis were worn by people of high station. Decorative sorudaya jaapis are made with intricate designs made out of cloth that is integrated with the weaving of the jaapi. There is also a typical red border around the edges.

    Bihu dancers holding Jaapi.

    Sorudaya Jaapi

    Thank You

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