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Lecture-11. Textile Testing

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Anees Ahmad Khan
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15 views

Lecture-11. Textile Testing

Uploaded by

Anees Ahmad Khan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Textile Testing

1
General Introduction
 Reasons for Testing
 Historical Background
 Special Nature of Textile Materials

2
Testing of what?

3
Testing for what?
“Fitness for purpose”

This usually means measuring …

4
Why test?
Some reasons …
• Quality Control/Consistency
You can’t control if you can’t measure

 Research & Development


Is the new better than the old?

 Sales & Marketing


“Our product is 50% stronger than theirs!”

 Other
eg forensics & crime investigation

5
Testing is normally
carried out according to a
“STANDARD”
What does that mean?

6
A standard is like a recipe
set of detailed instructions

• ensures consistency
• results can be communicated widely
• understood by any trained person
What do standards cover?

 Test methods
 Specifications of construction
 Performance criteria

Who sets them?


 Buyers (eg retailers)
 Manufacturers
 Government agencies
 Standards organisations
BSI, ISO, ASTM,AATCC ...

8
Fiber Testing
• Cotton Fibers Testing Perameters
• Micronair (micrograms per inch of fiber)
– (Denier/D.tex used for synthetic fibers)
• Length(in, mm)
• Strength(g/tex)
• Maturity
• Elongation(E%)
• UR( uniformity ratio)
• +b(yellowness)
• Rd(reflectance)
• SFI(Short fiber index)
• SCI(spinning consistency index)
• M.C( moisture content)
• Trash%
ZUT-Testing: Introduction & Background 9
Yarn Testing
Lea Strength Testing
CLSP=(Count*Lea Strength),
Count CV%, strength CV% Single Yarn Strength Testing
Uster Testing • Breaking Force(CN/Tex)
• U% • E%( elongation %age)
• R.K.M(Ruptures per kilometers)
• CVm
(gf/tex)
• CV1m • Breaking Work
• CV3m Twist Variation
• CV5m Moisture content
• CV10m
• Index
• Imperfections(IPI)
( Thin-50+Thick+50+Nep+200)
• H(hairiness)
Lea Strength Uster Tester-5 Uster Tensojet-4
Tester
Fabric Testing
Fabric testing is an important segment of the textile industry. We
can easily detect the faults of machinery and materials during test
of textiles.

Textile standards: Standard is a prescribed required level of


performance of material. These standards are:

•NFPA: National Fire Protection Association


•ANSI: American National Standard Institute
•ISO: International organization for Standardization
•AATCC: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
PHYSICAL TESTS
BREAKING STRENGTH
TEARING STRENGTH
BURSTING STRENGTH
PILLING PROPENSITY
AIR PERMEABILITY
ABRASION
RESISTANCE
FABRIC QUALITY
FABRIC GSM
BREAKING STRENGTH
• Breaking strength is the force required to break a
fabric when it is under tension (being pulled).
• Breaking Elongation is the increase in length that
has occurred when the fabrics breaks.
BREAKING STRENGTH

• Mainly used for woven fabric because the tests are unidirectional
and woven fabrics have unidirectional yarns.
• Factors that produce a strong fabric include fiber content, yarn
size and type, weave, and yarns per inch.
• Breaking strength is expressed in pounds and the elongation is
expressed as a percent and in both cases a number of warp tests
and weft test are performed.
IMPORTANCE OF BREAKING STRENGTH
TEST

• Breaking strength is important in various end uses such as


automotive safety belts, parachute harness and pants.
• Breaking strength can also be used to test the effects of
destructive forces upon a woven fabric including sunlight,
abrasion, laundering etc.
TEARING STRENGTH
Tearing strength is the force required to continue a tear or rip
already started in a fabric.

• This test is used mainly in woven fabrics


because the test is unidirectional and woven
fabrics have unidirectional yarns.
• A number of tear strength test is carried out and
the average is taken to determine the tear
strength.
• Tearing strength is expressed either in pounds
or grams.
BURSTING STRENGTH
Bursting strength is the amount of pressure required to rupture a fabric.

• In this test, the testing force is applied radially and not in one direction as in breaking
or tearing strength tests.
• Fabrics like knits, felt, non woven, lace and netting are usually tested in this manner
because these fabrics either do not have yarns or yarns are not in any given direction.
• The bursting strength is expressed in pounds.
PILLING
Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibres called pills on
the surface of the fabric.
• Pilling occurs only when there is
rubbing or an abrasive action on the
surface of the fabric.
• Pilling usually occurs during normal
wear and also while clothes are in the
dryer
• Evaluation should be made taking into
account the size, number, and
visibility of the pills as well as the
type and degree of other surface
PILLING PROPENSITY
After each test, each of the specimen is first evaluated for pilling usually on a 5-4-3-2-1
pilling scale, then surface appearance is evaluated both for colour change as well as for
fuzz. An average of ratings is usually taken as a result.

PILLING GRADES:
Grade 5 No or very weak formation of pills.
Grade 4 Weak formations of pills.
Grade 3 Moderate formations of pills.
Grade 2 Obvious formations of pills.
Grade 1 Severe formation of pills.
ABRASION RESISTANCE
Abrasion resistance is the wearing away of any part of a material when
rubbed against any other material.

Garments that are made from


fibres that possess both high
breaking strength and abrasion
resistance can be worn often and
for a long period of time before
signs of physical wear appear..

Nylon is extremely high in abrasion resistance so it is used widely


in action outer whereas Acetate has poor abrasion resistance so it
does not last long when used for lining in jackets and coats.
CHEMICAL TESTING
• COLORFASTNESS PROPERTIES.
•CHEMICAL SOLUBILITY TEST .
COLORFASTNESS
PROPERTIES
• Used to determine the resistance of dyed or printed
fabrics to color change under various conditions.
•There are various reasons as to which a fabric changes colors
like sunlight, pollution gases, abrasion, perspiration, dry
cleaning etc.
•A fabric that experiences little color alteration when exposed
to a fading force is said to have a good colorfastness while if
the color does not hold, then the fabric has poor colorfastness.
COLORFASTNESS
PROPERTIES
Problem persists with deeper colors like red rather than pastel
colors.
There is a scale from 5 to 1 for evaluating
colorfastness.

Class 5 means no shade change and class 1 means very great


shade change.

Colorfastness to light is rated on L9 to L1 scale with L9 being


the best rating and L1 the worst .
DIFFERENT TYPES OF COLORFASTNESS
TESTS.
1. COLORFASTNESS TO SUNLIGHT .
2. COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING.
3. COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING.
4. COLORFASTNESS TO FROSTING.
5. COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION.
6. COLORFASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING.
7. COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS
FUMES
( GAS FADING ).
AIR PERMEABILITY
Air permeability is the rate of air flow through a material
under a differential pressure between two fabric surfaces.
This property is important for a wide range of textile
applications.
With some products like curtains high air
permeability is required and for other
products like parachutes and gas filters air
permeability required is very less.
Air permeability is expressed as cubic feet
per square foot of fabric at a stated
pressure differential between two surfaces
of fabric.
VARIABLES WHICH AFFECT AIR
PERMEABILITY
Fiber content: more crimp, lower air permeability.

Yarn size: heavier yarns, lower air permeability.

Yarn Twist: less twist, less air permeability.


Fabric Thickness: thicker fabric, lower air
permeability.
Multiple layers: more layers, lower air permeability.
Fabric yarns per inch or stitches per inch: greater
density, lower air permeability.

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