1880s Undergarments

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McGonagall’s undies in the

1880s
Vee
Personal life
Oldest child, only daughter

Muggle rev father, closeted witch


mother

Frugal mother stretched small salary

Tension between parents over magic

Similar in temperament to Dad, but


magical flair and longing like Mum

(Rowling, 2015b)
Victorian Era
Queen Victoria, motherhood, femininity,
respectability, family, deferent to husband, high
moral standard → similar to McGonagall’s
parents

McGonagall broke off engagement with Muggle


farmer boy. She didn’t want the same struggles
as her parents.

Teaching was one of the acceptable professions


for women → close to child rearing.

Rise of the middle classes


(Audin, 2015; British Literature Wiki, n.d.; Cassells
Household Guide, c.1880s; Rowling, 2015b)
Teaching salary

Teachers were in high demand, qualifications


not always necessary

High-class teachers, higher qualifications


£300-2000 p.a

Excelled in school

£700 ~ £46,329.29 = $81,686.65

Free accommodation and meals

Long tenure at Hogwarts, Deputy Head (Cassells Household Guide, c. 1880s;


The National Archives, n.d.)
Minerva
Has enough funds to get nice things

Clothing should be as close to Muggle


fashion as possible

Conservative but still a classy lady

Changed career path because she


missed Scotland

Green (and purple) signal to other


magical folk
(Rowling, 2015a; Rowling, 2015b)
It’s fantasy
(Silhouettes, n.d.a; Silhouettes, n.d.b;
Waugh, 1954, p. 81-83, 102, 109)
Elegant article of a lady’s wardrobe

Bones held in place by a variety of embroidery


stitches (Waugh, 1954)

Padding around bust and hips to provide right curves


(Audin, 2015, Chapter 10)
(Atelier Nostalgia, 2017; Before the Automobile, 2019;
Silhouettes, n.d.c)
Corset - design concept
Evolution of the tournure

Waugh, 1954
Making Victorian costumes for women
“make sure that the design is simple; failure too often ensues from
attempting too much” - Cassell’s Family Magazine (Chapter 4)

Bright colours became fashionable after aniline dyes in 1856

2nd bustle phase worn lower down that angled out more (Chapter 5)

Without trains for everyday walking, tubular, circumference around


hem 183cm.

Petticoats of a contrasting colour (Chapter 11)

(Audin, 2015)
Diagram of foundation skirt
and cushion 1888, back and
side view 1884 (Arnold, 1977,
p. 10-11)
Variations of the bustle
Separate article from the petticoat
in short form 1883 for walking
(Cunnington & Cunnington, 1951,
p. 283)

(Waugh, 1954; Waugh, 1968)


The cut of women’s clothes
1880s crinolette→ either separate steel frames or
petticoats with steels inserted behind.

Basic cut → gored skirt with back fullness gathered at the


waist or pleated into 3-4 inches and front width gored

Front skirt straight fullness around the sides to the back.

Foundation skirt fitted around the hips with darts.

Mid 80s bustle incorporated into foundation skirt. 3-4


rows of steels then tied underneath plus horsehair pad

1883 3 steels. Lowest 27 inches from the hem 22in long,


then 18 and 13in kept out by small mattress 8x5in or by
small crinolette tied by strings

(Waugh, 1968) 1883 Afternoon dress; 1888 Day dress


1887-1889 Day Dress

1887-89 (Arnold, 1977, p. 38-39)


The phantom bustle

Bustles made of sprung steel


that collapsed when the
wearer sat down. (Audin,
2015)

Collapsed in on themselves
when a lady sat down
(Matthews, 2018, p. 116)

(Victoria and Albert Museum, n.d.)


Finally, my very underwhelming rough sketch of my silhouette
References

Arnold, J. (1977). Patterns of fashion 2: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940. Costume & Fashion Press/Quite Specific Media.
Atelier Nostalgia. (2017, October 27). [Photo of blue 1880s corset with white flossing]. https://ateliernostalgia.wordpress.com/2017/10/27/1880s-corset/
Audin, H. (2015). Making Victorian costumes for women. The Crowood Press.
Before the Automobile. (2019, February 18). I tried on my new 1880’s corset today. [Photo of blush 1880s corset, Status update]. Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/beforetheautomobile/posts/pfbid02ghoUjFFryoKXgJp729eyrikZ3RciYzaTUyWjx3rjNXpogk1kV9Hcmr2eeT7JmZxAl
British Literature Wiki. (n.d.). Social life in Victorian England. https://sites.udel.edu/britlitwiki/social-life-in-victorian-england/
Cassells Household Guide. (c.1880s). High-class tuition. https://www.victorianlondon.org/cassells/cassells-19.htm
Cunningtong, C. W. & Cunnington, P. (1951). The history of underclothes. Dover Publications, Inc.
Gernsheim, A. (1963). Victorian & Edwardian fashion: A photographic survey. Dover Publications, Inc.
Matthews, M. (2018). A Victorian lady’s guide to fashion and beauty. Pen & Sword Books Ltd.
Rowling, J. K. (2015a, August 10). Clothing. Wizarding World. https://www.wizardingworld.com/writing-by-jk-rowling/clothing
Rowling, J. K. (2015b, August 10). Professor McGonagall. Wizarding World. https://www.wizardingworld.com/writing-by-jk-rowling/professor-mcgonagall
Silhouettes. (n.d.a). [Drawing of 1884 corset patent]. History of corsets 1780-1912. https://silhouettescostumes.com/the-eras-we-build/history-of-corsets-1780-1912/
Silhouettes. (n.d.b). [Drawing of corsets from 1886 catalog page]. History of corsets 1780-1912.
https://silhouettescostumes.com/the-eras-we-build/history-of-corsets-1780-1912/
Silhouettes. (n.d.c). [Photograph of 1880s orange corset]. History of corsets 1780-1912.
https://silhouettescostumes.com/the-eras-we-build/history-of-corsets-1780-1912/
The National Archives. (n.d.). Currency converter: 1270-2017. https://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency-converter/#currency-result
Victoria and Albert Museum. (n.d.). [Photograph of a phantom bustle 1887-1888].
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/corsets-crinolines-and-bustles-fashionable-victorian-underwear
Warner Bros. (2005). [Photograph of Dumbledor and McGonagall at the Yule Ball].
https://www.racked.com/2018/6/11/17436070/harry-potter-hats-jedi-robes-costume-inconsistencies
Waugh, N. (1954). Corsets and crinolines. Routeledge/Theatre Arts Books.

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