Fabric Manufacturing II

Rib & Interlock Derivatives

Rib
Features
 The appearance of the face and back are identical (1×1 rib, 2×2
rib).
 It has a vertical cord appearance.
 It has heavier structure.
 The fabric does not curl at edges.
 Has a vertical cord appearance.
 Commonly used for outerwear.
 It is more expensive to produce than single jersey fabrics.
 Finer yarn is required to produce this fabric.
 Rib structures are elastic, form fitting.
 It retains warmth better than plain structures.
The simplest rib fabric is 1×1
rib
Rib sets
Single or Simple rib:
2 x 1,3 x 1 etc
Broad rib:
6 x 3, 3 x 2 etc
Rib derivatives and uses
Derivatives of Rib Structure
 1. 2×2 rib

 2. Half cardigan or Royal rib

 3. Full cardigan or Polka rib

 4. Swiss double pique

 5. French double pique

6. 5×1 Derby rib

Uses of rib:
 Men’s hosiery

 Collars

 Cuffs

 Necklines

 Bottom edges of sweaters

 Knit hats
1. Half cardigan Rib or Royal Rib:
 It is a rib based structure in which a great number of tuck stitches are
added to make the fabric heavy, wide and soft.
 From the below notation diagram it is clear that two knitting sequences
are required to produce one repeat of this type of fabric.
 A special effect is produced when one half of the cardigan repeat is
substituted for a regular 1 x 1 rib structure.
 The new fabric is called a “Half Cardigan" and is produced according to
the knitting notation system illustrated in the following figure.
 One side of the fabric, in this case the reverse side, is produced with tuck
stitèhes and therefore looks like a “Cardigan”.
 The loops of the other side acquire a very rounded and attractive shape
which is very typical for this structure.
1. Half cardigan Rib or Royal Rib:
The Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows -
- First course: regular lx1 rib structure.
- Second course: tuck loop formed by the all needles of one bed and knit
loop formed by the all needles of other bed.
2.Full Cardigan Rib or Polka Rib:
 It is another variation of the 1xi rib structure.
 In this case, even more tuck stitches are introduced which makes the
fabric wider, heavier, bulkier and less flexible then the half cardigan or the
usual lx1 rib.
 Contrary to the previous example the full cardigan is symmetric on both
sides.
 From the below notation diagram it is clear that two yarns are inserted
into the fabric in order to complete one full course i.e. loops on the one
needle bed and bdoos on the other needle bed.
2.Full Cardigan Rib or Polka Rib:
 The two courses which make the “Cardigan" repeat are illustrated in the
above needle notation system.
 The Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows –

--- First course: tuck loop formed by the all needles of back bed and knit loop
formed by the all needles of front bed.
--- Second course: tuck loop formed by the all needles of front bed and knit
loop formed by the all needles of back bed.
Because of the large number of tuck stitches, both Cardigan and Half
Cardigan are very bulky, in comparison with other knit structures.
They are sometimes very fashionable and are used for heavy outerwear such
as sweater.
2.Full Cardigan Rib or Polka Rib:
3. Double Piqué for double jersey
Double piqué is a double jersey fabric made on a rib
basis, using a selection of knitted loops and floats.
The two most important sequentes are known as Swiss
double piqué and French double piqué respectively,
and the knitting sequences for each are shown in the
following figure.
Double piqué is also known as wevenit, rodier, and
overnit.
3. Double Piqué for double jersey
3. Double Piqué for double jersey
a) Swiss Double Pique: Knitting sequence for a repeat as follows -
- First course: Cylinder needles — all are produce knit loop.
Dial needles — odd number needles produce knit loop and even
number needle produce miss loop.
- Second course: Cylinder needles — all are produce miss loop.
Dial needles — same as first course.
- Third course: Cylinder needles — same as first course.
Dial needles — odd number needles produce miss loop and even
number needle produce knit loop.
- Fourth course: Cylinder needles — all are produce miss loop.
Dial needles — same as third course.
3. Double Piqué for double jersey
b) French Double Pique: Knitting sequence for a repeat as
follows: -
- First course: Cylinder needles - all are produce knit loop
Dial needles — odd number needles produce miss loop 'and even
number needle produce knit loop.
-Second course: Cylinder needles - all are produce miss loop.
Dial needles — odd number needles produce knit loop and even
number needle produce miss loop.
-Third course: Cylinder needles — same as first course.
Dial needles — same as second course.
-Fourth course: Cylinder needles — all are produce miss loop.
Dial needles - same as first course.
4. Half Milano Rib
5. Milano Rib
5. Milano Rib
6. Roma Rib
7.Gaberdine or 2 x 2 Twill Fabric:
 Gabardine is a simple 2x2 twill double-blister fabric
which is useful for fine-gauge men's leisurewear.
 It has a four needle width repeat, with the dial

needles all knitting the backing at every third (ground)

feed.
 The following left figure shows a gabardine fahric.
7.Gaberdine or 2 x 2 Twill Fabric:
Interlock Structure
 Interlock is composed of two 1×1 rib fabrics locked
together.
 It has the technical face of plain fabric on both sides

but its smooth surface cannot be stretched out to

reveal the reverse loop wales
Properties

 It has the technical face of plain fabric

on both sides.
 The wales on each side are exactly opposite
to each other and are locked together.
 It lies flat without curl
 Relaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more,
compared with its knitted width
Properties
 Not unrove from the end knitted first.
 Thicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gauge
 Requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn
 The appearance of the face and back is the same.
 Extensibility width wise and length wise are approximately the same as
single jersey.
 The fabric does not curl at edges.
Interlock Structure
Interlock Structure
 An interlock machine must have the following:
• Interlock gating
• Two separate cam systems in each bed
• Needles set out alternately
Interlock Structure
Uses of interlock:

 Means Underwear
 Shirts
 Suits
 Trousers suits
 Sports wear
 Dresses
1. Single Pique or cross Tuck Interlock
Structure
1. Single Pique or cross Tuck Interlock
Structure
2. Texi Pique Structure
2. Texi Pique Structure
3. Jersey Cord Structure
3. Jersey Cord Structure
4. Punto di-Roma structure
5.Super Roma Structure
5.Super Roma Structure
Difference between Rib m/c and
Interlock m/c
Rib Interlock
1.Rib has vertical cord appearance 1. Interlock has the technical face
of plain fabrics on both sides
2.one type of latch needle is used. 2.two types of latch needle is
used.
3.one feeder is used at yarn 3.at least two feeders are used
feeding
4.relaxation is less 4.more relaxation
5.Dial and cylinder needles are 5. Dial and cylinder needles are
opposite but placed in same opposite and alternatively placed
sequence
6.it is not so thick and heavy 6. it is so thick and heavy
structure structure
Purl Structure
 -- The structures which has certain wales
containings both face and reverse meshed
loops are known as purl structures.
 -- It can be achieved with double-ended
latch needles or by rib loop transfer from
one bed to the other, combined with
needle bed racking.
Purl Structure
Purl Structure
1. Purl is reversible structure i.e. its appearance on both sides is same.
2. Extension in all directions is more
3. The fabric does not curl at the edges.
4. The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end.
5. Unraveling of fabric course by course from either side is possible.
6. Commonly used for children wear.
7. Same appearance, face and back
8. Highly extensible in all directions. Approximately twice as extensible as
single jersey in the length direction.
9. The fabric does not curl at the edges.
10. The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end.