Effect of Fiber Properties on Quality and Cost

Order of role of textile fiber to different spinning system

EFFECT OF FIBER LENGTH

1. Spinning limit: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Spinning limit↑

2. Yarn strength: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Yarn strength ↑
3. Yarn evenness: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Yarn evenness ↑
4. Handle of the product: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Handle of the product ↑
5. Luster of the product: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Luster of the product ↑
6. Yarn hairiness: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Yarn hairiness ↓
7. Productivity: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Productivity ↑
8. Twist Limit: FIBER LENGTH ↑ Twist Limit ↑
EFFECT OF FIBER STRENGTH

1. Spinning limit: FIBER STRENGTH ↑ Spinning limit ↑

2. Yarn Strength: FIBER STRENGTH ↑ Yarn Strength ↑
3. Yarn evenness: FIBER STRENGTH ↑ Yarn evenness ↑
4. Yarn hairiness: FIBER STRENGTH ↑ Yarn hairiness ↓
5. Productivity: FIBER STRENGTH ↑ Productivity ↑
EFFECT OF FIBER FINENESS
• 1. Spinning limit: fiber fineness↑ Yarn spinning limit ↑
• 2. Yarn strength: fiber fineness ↑ Yarn strength ↑
• 3. Yarn evenness: fiber fineness ↑ yarn evenness ↑
• 4. Yarn bulkness: fiber fineness ↑ yarn bulkness ↑
• 5. Drape of the fabric product: fiber fineness ↑ drape ↑
• 6. Luster: fiber fineness ↑ Luster ↑
• 7. Handle: fiber fineness ↑ handle of the product ↑
• 8. Productivity of the process: fiber fineness ↑ Productivity ↑
• 9. Yarn hairiness: fiber fineness ↑ yarn hairiness ↑
EFECT OF FIBER MATURITY
• “Maturity Ratio: Calculated using a sophisticated algorithm based on several HVI™
measurements”.
• The cotton fiber consists of cell wall and lumen. The maturity index is dependent upon the
thickness of this cell wall. Cotton stock without unripe fibers is unimaginable. Unripe fibers have
neither adequate strength nor adequate longitudinal stiffness. The influence of fiber maturity is:
• 1. Yarn strength: The matured fiber has the maximum strength. Therefore, the higher the fiber
maturity, the higher the realization efficiency of fiber strength to yarn strength.
• 2. Neppiness: The dead fiber leads to low maturity fiber. The lower the maturity ratio the higher
the degree of nepping of fiber in the process.
• 3. Proportion of short fibers: Low matured fiber lead to higher breakage during processing esp in
blow room and card frame. This phenomenon of breakage leads to higher short fiber content in
the process.
• 4. End breakage: Due to lower translational efficiency of fiber strength to yarn strength for the
immature fibers end breakage in the spinning at ring frame and in the post spinning at weaving
increases.
• 5. Shade Variation: Dye take up rate vary depending on maturity ratio. Low matured fiber take up
lower quantity dye and dye take up ratio for matured fiber is higher.
FIBER COLOR GRADE
• “Rd (Whiteness), +b (Yellowness), Color Grade: Measured optically by different color
filters, converted to USDA Upland or Pima Color Grades or regional customized color
chart”.[26]

• Rd - Reflectance
• This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers. It
corresponds to the reflectance (Rd) represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart. It
is used in conjunction with the yellowness (+b) to determine the color grade of the
cotton.
• +b - Yellowness
• This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers.
The yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by using a yellow filter. It corresponds
to the +b value represented in the Nickerson/Hunter color chart. The yellowness is
used in conjunction with the reflectance (Rd) value to determine the instrument-
measured color grade of the cotton.
FIBER COLOR GRADE
FORMULATION OF MIXING & BLENDING TO CONTROL THE MIXING
QUALITY

• UHMLHVI=Upper Half Mean Length by HVI; FSHVI =Fiber

Bundle Strength; FMHVI =Fiber Maturity; FFHVI =Fiber
Fineness (Micronaire Value).
• But if we use fibers of different origin or properties, then
FQI of that mixing instead of individual fiber to be
evaluated to assess the performance of that mixing in
producing yarn.
CQI- “Cost – Quality Index”
Considering the both (a) mixing cost as CI-Cost Index& (b) mixing quality as
FQI-Fiber Quality Index, we can use a new tool to formulate the mixing or
blending and this is CQI- “Cost – Quality Index” which is expressed as

• This “CQI Tool” can be used to assess the comparative performance of the
mixing if there are stocks of fibers of available quantity and quality. But this is
not the ideal solution to the problem of formulating mixings.
• The solution for ideal formulation of mixing requires the fulfillment of two
basics criterion and these are
• 1. Quality of mixing (FQImixing) should meet desired target quality or may be
better.
• 2. Cost of Mixing (CImixing) should be of minimum cost.
 MIXING
• Mixturing of some fibers from different grade or from same origin are
taken together for a product is called mixing.
• Example: 50% of 29 mm staple of cotton + 50% of 32 mm staple
length cotton. Mixing is intended for the development of cost or
quality of the yarn.
 BLENDING
• Different fiber from same or different grade and different origin are
taken together for a product is called blending.
• Blending is intended for the development of physical properties of the
end-product - garments.
OBJECTS OR IMPORTANCE OF MIXING AND BLENDING

1. Optimalization of end product profile:

Consumer demands for easy-care clothing, improved comfort, environmental
protection and fashion have led to many blends of natural and man-made
fibers.
2. Equalization of raw material quality:. Blending of the fibers within and among
bales is therefore essential to obtain consistent yarns properties .The different
type of raw material quality is equalized and levelled to produce the yarn of
required quality level.
3. Minimization of raw material cost: Fiber cost is usually the major contributor
to yarn cost. Blending of different grades is often used to reduce cost. Due to
purchasing cotton consignment in different time in different price, cost of raw
material is minimized through mixing and blending.
• 4. Optimalization of Yarn profile: Yarn profile means yarn quality profile and
yarn physical profile. Quality profile consists with yarn evenness value like Thick,
Thin, Neps. Both the profile is optimalized using different quality level raw
cotton through mixing and blending.
• 5. Maintaining uniform quality over long period: Uniform quality over long
period brings the positive result in different ways, e.g. process control, quality
control and customer satisfaction.
• 6. To improve process performance: Using different fiber of different physical
properties better process performance is achieved. Because a good mixing
brings down the ends down of the spinning process.
• 7. Utilization of Spinnable waste: Spinnable waste is utilized as raw material in
blow room by mixing optimal level spinnable waste with virgin cotton.
 BALE MANAGEMENT
BALE MANAGEMENT is “the management of selection of
bales from the fiber quality database and distribution of bales
according to lay down management plan to achieve the target
quality and cost level”.
In other word, bale management is the right pick up the right
quality.
OBJECTIVES
• 1. To improvise the quality profile of the yarn in term of:
(a) Mass variation which represents the imperfection of the yarn: A yarn
made from bale management improvises the mass variation of the yarn
like thin, thick and neps.
(b) End breakage variation over the process period which is produced
from improper raw material selection or improper mixing: Continuation
of a spinning process from bale management avoids such type of draw-
back i.e. high end break frequency.
(c) Shade variation which represents the barre effect in the end product:
A export quality end-product with barre effect is rejected by the
consumers. Such type quality problem can be avoided through
implementation of the data based mixing, i.e. bale management.
OBJECTIVES
• 2. To reduce the raw material cost (cost of mix): Bale
management has influence in reduction of the product’s cost
through
• a) The usage of maximum number of bales within bale
warehouse – the least amount of left over bales.
• b) The improving the process performance (consistency in
production, less lot change- less wastage & higher process
efficiency).
• c) The usage of cheaper raw material with better quality
fiber to achieve the desired quality.
 BALE MANAGEMENT: FACTORS OF CONSIDERATION BEFORE
PREPARATION

1. DOCUMENTATION ON THE PROCESS AND PRODUCT SPECIFICATION:

2. CREATION OF FIBER QUALITY PARAMETER DATABASE:
3. EVALUATION OF FIBER QUALITY DATABASE FOR SUITABLE PROCESS
AND PRODUCT:
4. EVALUATION OF COST PROFILE OF A SUITABLE COTTON MIX:
5. FIBER SELECTION - SELECT FIBER PROFILE SUITABLE FOR PRODUCT
AND PROCESS:
6. SELECTION OF FIBER BLENDING STRATEGY – for lower variation in
product quality:
 TOOLS OF ANALYZING AND CATAGORIZATION
1. FQI- Fiber Quality Index. 2. SCI-Spinning Consistency Index.
1. FQI- Fiber Quality Index:

• 2. SCI-Spinning Consistency Index:

• This index is used for predicting the overall quality and spinnability of cotton
fiber. The regression equation of SCI uses most of the HVI fiber parameter
and is formulated basis on averaging five year fiber database of US Upland
and US Pima cotton. The regression equation of SCI is as below:
• SCI= -414.67 +2.9 X FS + 49.17 X UHML +
4.74 XUI - 9.32 X FF + 0,65 X Rd +0.36 X +b