Protein Fiber

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1 Protein Fiber

 Wool
 Wool is obtained from the fleece of domesticated animals like
sheep and goat. Wool and hair fiber are the natural hair of
certain animals and are composed of protein.
 Protein consists of complex organic compounds containing
amino acids.
 It is also derived in lesser quantity from camels, yaks and
rabbits.
 Wool is a versatile, durable and elastic fiber. It is made up of
proteins.
 The fleece of sheep is spun to make yarn.
 The yarn is then weaved to make woolen clothes.
2 Sources of Wool fiber

 Sheep
 Goat
 Camel
 Rabbit
 Yak
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Wool Production by Country

 UK
 Australia
 New Zealand
 Argentina
 South Africa
 United States.
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SHEEP
There are many breeds of sheep
that provide us wool differing in
their fineness, shine, length, and
resistance
The finest wool is obtained from
the Merino Sheep

GOAT

Wool is also obtained from goats.


The important breeds of goat
found in India are Kashmiri,
Gaddi, Chamba and Angora. The
fiber called mohair obtained from
Angora Goat.
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CAMEL
The hairs on the body of a camel
are also used as wool. Bactrian
camel of Siberia, Mongolia and
China give us the best quality
wool. A male camel yields on an
average 12 to 15kg of wool
annually and a female camel
yields about 6 to 8kg of wool.

Rabbit

Wool is also obtained from rabbit


hairs. Angora rabbit gives a very
fine wool.
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Process
• Preparation of Fiber: Fleece vary from 3 to 8 Kg in weight. The best
quality wool is obtained from the sides and shoulders and is treated as
one fleece.
• The raw wool or newly sheared fleece is called grease wool as it
contains natural oil.
• The wool obtained should be carefully sorted into different grades.
• Sorting and Grading: Wool is sorted into sections of different quality
fibers, from different parts of the body.
• The best quality of wool is used for clothing; the lesser quality or second
quality is used to make rugs.
Process

• Scouring is the first step in conversion of greasy wool into a textile

product.

• It is the process of washing wool in hot water and detergent.

• Machine contains warm water, soap and mild solution of soda ash or

other alkali.

• If the raw wool is not sufficiently clear of vegetable substance after

scouring, it is put through the carbonizing bath of dilute sulfuric acid or

hydrochloric acid to burn out the foreign matter.


Process

• Drying Wool after scouring should not be allowed to become absolutely


dry.
• About 12 to 16% of moisture is left in the wool which would enable
handling of the fibers in further processing.
Process

• Oiling Wool is unmanageable after scouring and hence the fiber requires
to be treated with various oils to keep it from becoming brittle.
• It also helps to lubricate for spinning operation.
Process

• Carding is the process which depends up on whether woolen yarn or


worsted yarns are to be produced.
• Manufacturing Woolen Yarn, the fiber passes through two stages
• Carding
• Spinning
Process

• Carding:- Objective of carding is to disentangle the fiber


• The wool fiber is passed between rollers covered with thousands of fine
wire teeth.
• Fibers are disentangled by the action of wires and are arranged parallel.
• By using oscillating device, one thin film, or sliver of wool is placed
diagonally and overlapping another sliver to give a fuzzy surface.
• Spinning:- This stage is similar to that of worsted production process.
Process

• Manufacturing Worsted Yarns has involved different steps.


• Carding
• Gilling and Combing
• Drawing
• Roving
• Spinning
Process
• Carding:- This process is carried out in same way as carding process for
woolen yarn.
• Gilling and Combing:- Gilling is carried out before (Preparative
gilling) and after (Finisher gilling) combing.
• Preparative gilling is mainly to align the fibers in parallel direction,
blend the wool through doubling and to add moisture & lubricants.
• Finisher gilling is mainly aimed to remove the mild entanglement
introduced to the combed sliver.
• Gilling process removes the shorter staple and straightens the longer
fibers.
• Combing removes shorter fibers 1 to 4” length (Comb noils), places
longer fibers(tops) parallel.
Process

• Principle system of spinning There are two principle system of

spinning worsted yarn, they are;

• English System:- In English system(Bradford), the fiber is oiled before

combing and a tight twist is inserted. This produce smoother and finer

yarns.

• French System:- In this system, no oil is used. Yarn is given no twist; it

is fuzzier therefore it is soft worsted yarn.


PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF
WOOL
• Color : The color of wool fiber could be white, near white, brown and
black.
• Tensile strength : The T.S of wool in dry condition is 1-1.7 and in wet
condition 0.8- 1.6
• Elongation at break : Standard elongation is 25-35% & 25-50% in wet
condition.
• Elastic Recovery : Good.
• Specific Gravity : 1.3-1.32
• Moisture Regain : Standard 16-18%
• Resiliency : Excellent.
• Luster : Luster of course fiber is higher than fine fiber
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF
WOOL
• Effect of Heat : wool becomes weak of heat. It softness when heated or

treated with boiling water for long time. At 130˚C it decomposes and

chars at 300˚C. Does not continue to burn when it is removed from a

flame.

• Effect of Sun Light : The main chemical components of wool

decomposes under the action of sun light. The sulphur in wool is

converted into H2SO4. The fibers become discolored and develop a

harsh feel.
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF
WOOL
• Effect of Organic solvent: Wool doesn’t affect in organic solvents.

• Effect of Insects: Wool affected by insects.

• Effect of Micro Organism: It affected by mildew if it remains wet for

long time.

• Dyeing Ability: wool fiber could be dyed by basic dye, direct dye and

acid dye.

• Effect of acids : Concentrated acids damage it since they hydrolyze the

salt linkages and hydrogen bonds. Dilute acids do not affect it


CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF
WOOL
• Effect of alkali : It easily dissolves in alkaline solutions. Alkalis hydrolyze

the disulphide bonds; hydrogen bonds and salt linkages of wool and cause

the polymers to separate from each other, which is looked as dissolution of

the fiber. Hydrolysis of the peptide bonds of wool polymers lead to

polymer fragmentation and total destruction of the strand.

• Effect of bleach : Chlorine bleach is ordinary harmful to the wool. KMnO4,

Na2O2 are utilized for bleaching.


38 End product of wool fiber

END USES OF WOOL FABRIC:


• Apparel-- outerwear, sports wear,
sweaters, socks, suits
• Interiors-- carpets, wall hangings
• Industrial-- felt pieces used in machines,
used to clean up oil spills

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