Facial Make-up

Application
Make-up- used to enhance and accentuate the facial
features to make a person more attractive, which in turn
makes her feel more confident.
- Make-up is used to create balance in the face by skillful
application of different cosmetic products to reduce or to
emphasize facial features.

Client- are individually unique so each requires an individual

approach for their make-up.
Factors in Choosing Facial Make-up
1. Shape of the face. Below are the shape of the face:

a) Oval- equal distance from hairline to eyebrows;

from eyebrows to tip of the nose and from nose or
chin; wider forehead than jawline. Prominent
checkbone gently taper to oval chin.
b) Round- width about same as length; short forehead; wide
cheeks; round chin.

c.) Diamond- narrow forehead; narrow chin and wider

cheekbone.

d.) Square/Rectangular- width of the cheeks and the forehead

are similar; width of jawline and forehead are similar; high
cheekbones; angular overall appearance. Rectangular shape is
longer than square-shaped.

e.) Heart- wide t the forehead, but then curves down to a point
at the chin.
2. Type and Color of the Skin- second factor in selecting
face make-up is the type and color of the skin of the
individual.
Skin Basic Composition
a) Oily
b) Dry
c) Combination
3.) The Outfit and the Occasion- matching the make-up
with the outfit is the most important things to consider in
making client to look great.

Cosmetics: Functions and Applications

1. Concealer (cover stick)- goes over or under
foundation and is used for spot treatments. It is best
used in hiding baggy eyes, pimples, and other
blimishes.
How to apply Concealer:
a) Put a small amount in your fourth fingertip and
dot it on the blemishes. Blend well at the edges.
b) Dot a small amount on the inner eyelid, moving
inward and backward. Put a bit slightly below
your dark circles to hide them.

2.) Foundation- used all over the face to make it look

uniform and smooth. Make sure that the brand of
foundation is oil-based for dry skin, oil-free for oily skin
and water-based for combination skin.
How to apply foundation:
a) Dab ample amount on to your palm.
b) Dip in to your two fingers ( 3rd or 4th) or use a
triangular sponge and dot on the cheeks, chin,
forehead and nose.
c) Smooth it over the face and gently blend in upward
and outward motions. Do not forgetthe side of the
nose, under the eyebrows, along the jawline, blending
an inch below the jawline and the chin.

3.) Brow Liner- emphasizes the eyebrow and makes it

look fuller.
How to apply brow liner:
a) If the client’s eyebrow are well-shaped, you can use
brow liner to simply enhance its shape.
b) Apply the eyebrow pencil in a fine, light stroke to
create the appearance of hair.
c) Use a brush to soften the lines.
4.) Eyeshadow-used on each entire eyelid and under the
eyebrow to compliments the eye color and make the eyes
appear larger. It comes in a variety of colors and several
forms, including cream (good for dry skin), matte (good for
oily skin), and pencil (good for all types of skin).

You can use two o three complementary colors with

different values light, medium, and dark.
How to apply eyeshadow:
a. Apply the lightest shade to the upper portion of the
eyes, along the brow bone.
b. Use the medium shade to color the eyelids. Begin at the
inner corner and stroke to the outer edge of the eyelid.
Then use your fingertip to lightly blend the light and
medium shades together where they meet near the crease.

c. Use now the darker shade to add contour and depth.

Beginning at the inner corner, follow the crease to the outer
of the eyes. You can also add a little more of the darkest
color to edge of the lids, just above the lashes. Then, once
again, use your fingertip or brush to blend and soften the
lines.

5.) Eyeliner- used to enhance the size and shape of the

eyes.
How to apply eyeliner:
a) Using an eyeliner pencil, run the pencil above the upper
eyelid lashes right close to the lash line. At first it is best
to only directly above where the lashes are growing, do
not extend your line too close to the inner corner of the
eye, it might look right. You can apply with extending
the liner line later when you feel a little more
comfortable with eye make-up.

b.) When you have finish lining, lightly smudge the line
you just drew. Most pencil have a foam rubber smudges
on one end. Smudging softens some of the harshness the
line may have; in other words, blended the line in a little
so it does not look like a distinct line.
c.) After you line and smudge, use small pointy brush and run
a coat of the dark eyeshadow over the eyeliner. Do this if the
line looks like it stands out too much, it softens it and is a
‘’must do step” for liquid liner.

6.) Mascara- applied by brush directly to the lashes to make

them look fuller and longer, additionally completing your eye
make-up
How to apply mascara:
a) Pull the mascara wand from the tube and lightly wipe
off the excess mascara with a piece of tissue paper.
b) Using the curvy part of the brush tip, start coating the
outer two-thirds of the lash roots of the tips.
c) Use a lash comb to separate lashes.
7.) Blush on- Used to emphasize the cheekbone. This is to
be applied sparingly and should look very natural.
Two options in Blush Application:
I. Daywear- looks more natural compared to nightwear.
-Apply the blush directly on the “apples” of the
cheeks.
II. Nightwear- sweep the blush along the bottom of the
apples toward the temples.
a) Square face- to soften the angles of the cheeks, apply
a bright color of blush towards the temples. This
technique takes away the sharp angles of a square
face shape.
b) Round face- to make the face thin, apply blush to the area
above the apples of the cheeks. Blend slightly forward to
highlight the roundness of the cheeks.
c) Long face- to create the illusion of width on a long face,
apply blush to the apples of the cheeks and extend the blush
outward towards the ears.

d) Oval face- since oval is the perfect shapedfae, this

needs little help from blush. To make a natural look, apply
blush onto the apples of the cheeks.

8) Lip liner- goes around the edge of the lips and is used to
define them and keep the lipstick in place.
How to apply lip liner:
a. Condition your lips with a lip balm, or you can apply
foundation as a base before applying lipstick.
b) Outline the lower lip with a lip pencil following its
natural shape. When lining the lips, start at the center.
c) Define the center curve of the upper lips with two precise
strokes. Always have the line touching the edge of the lips.
d) Then line the lower lips.

9) Lipstick- give an overall beauty and a finished look on

the lips.
How to apply lipstick:
a) Put some lipstick on a brush and fill the outline of the
lips. Work gradually towards the outline; do not cover it
with a lipstick.
b) Ask the client to open her mouth wide, and fill the corner
of the lips so that there are no unfinished edges.
c) Blot with a tissue paper and fill the corner of the lips in
more color. Blot again to make it look natural.

10) Powder- can be applied over foundation to help ‘’set’’ it,

but its main purpose is to help minimize shine of the skin
and gives a fresh looks all day.
.

How to apply powder:

a) If you use loose powder, dip powder brush into the
powder. Shake if the excess from the face.
b) Dust the face lightly in upward strokes.
c) For the pressed powder, apply it wit light, upward
strokes..
Facial Make-up Requirements

1. Ordinary or Daytime make-up

- a type of make up that is simple, light, and looks
natural.
2. Evening make-up or Heavy make-up
- uses darker shades and gives a glamorous effect.
3. Photographic make-up- a type of make-up that
enhances the beauty and hides the bad features of the
individual’s face. This is to make the face more glowing
but looks natural in the picture.
4. Stage Theatrical make-up – type of make-up creates a
believable appearance of the characters that actors portray
during a stage/theater production.
5. Wedding make-up- type of make-up is similar to
photographic make-up. The face of the bride should be
glowing but looks natural in the picture.
Contouring- common practice of enhancing the structure
of the face through make-up.
-The goal is
to attain an oval shape through the application of
foundation and blush-on on the areas of the face that need
to be emphasized and those that need to be “hidden”.
 Different Facial Shapes and Their Corresponding
Contouring Techniques
Shape of the Contouring Techniques
Face
Apply blush just under the ball of cheekbone, directly below the
1. Oval outer part of the iris. Extend in smooth arc, fading toward the top
of the ear.

Apply darker shade of foundation on the forehead, on the side of

2. Round the jaw up to the tip of the ear. Apply blush on the ball of the cheek.

Apply lighter shade of foundation on both sides of forehead. Apply

3. Diamond lighter shade of foundation at angle from middle to bottom jawline.

Apply darker shade of foundation on either side of the forehead

4. Square- and blend to make forehead appear more oval. Apply darker shade
Rectangular foundation on either side of jawline and blend to make it more
oval. Apply blush on the ball of the cheek. Blend toward the top of
the ear for a square face and middle of the ear for a rectangular
face.

To soften the lower half of the face, apply lighter shade of

5. Heart foundation at either side of the jawline. Apply darker shade of
foundation on either side of forehead. Apply blush -
 Starting under the ball of the cheek. Blend away
toward the center of the ear.

Corrective Make-up
A basic technique for applying make-up is to
emphasize the good features by highlighting and
minimizing the imbalanced or not so good features by
shadowing or shading with the right combination of
cosmetics colors, which is the purpose of corrective
make-up.
Primary Contouring of Faces
1. Highlighting- lighter shade of foundation is applied on a
particular area of the face to focus attention on that area.
2. Shadowing/Shading- a darker shade of foundation is
applied on a particular feature to minimize the attention
on that area.

3. Blending- two shades of foundations are blended to

diffuse the harshness of highlighting and shadowing.
Corrective Make-up for the Eyes
1. Wide-set Eyes- If the space between the inner corners of
eyes is wider than the width of one eye, the client has
wide-set eyes. Reduce the space between the eyes to
make them look close together.
What to do:
a) Reduce the space between the eyes by applying dark
eyeshadow in the inner corner.
b) Apply the lighter eyeshadow to the outer two-thirds
of the lid from lashes to brow bone.
c) Use eyeliner to draw a very thin line from inner to
outer corners on both upper and lower lids.
d) Pencil eyebrows a little closer to the nose. Do not
extend eyebrows out at the ends.

2. Close-set Eyes-are less than one eye length apart.

Make the eyes look further apart by emphasizing the
outer corners of the eyes.
What to do:
a) Apply light shade from the inner corner to the middle
of the lid (from lashes to browline). Apply a little
highlighter in the inner corner of the eye.
b) Extend the medium-toned eyeshadow to the outer corner
of your eye from lashline to browline.
c) Use the most intensive color of eyeshadow in the outer
corner.
d) Brush a little highlighter on the browbone.
e) Use eyeliner to line upper and lower lids keeping color
most intense at the far corner of the eyes.
f) Apply mascara on the top and bottom lashes with some
extra coats on the outer corners.
g) Extend the length of brows outward with a brow pencil.
3. Prominent/Bulbous eyes- may appear larger and
bulging, with prominent upper lids. Make the eyes look
slightly small and minimize the top lids.
What to do:
a) Apply a light eyeshadow horizontally across the brow
bone to take the focus of the lid area.
b) Horizontally cover the entire lid with a soft dark matte
eyeshadow, extending from the inner corner to just
beyond the outer edge of the eye. This faintly elongates
and reduces prominent lids.
c) It is advice to used eyeliner with this eye, so apply liner
to top and bottom lash lines, however keep a slightly
thicker line along the lower lashes.

4. Deep- set eyes- are recessed or shadowed by a prominent

brow bone. Try to make the eyes look not too deep.

What to do:
a) Apply light or medium eyeshadow from the inner
corner of your eye to the outer one.
b) Apply darker color on the eye crease.
c) Use eyeliner on upper lids. Apply eyeliner very close to
your lash lines. Avoid black colors which can make your
eyes look smaller.
d) Curl your lashes and apply mascara on top eyelashes.
Thank you!!!