Printing & Styles
Printing & Styles
Printing & Styles
styles
INTRODUCTION
The art of printing fabric was known as early as 300
B.C.
Printing is the art of colouring the surface of any item.
Tattooing of body is one of the most common printing of
olden days.
The impression of object dipped in dyes on fabric is the
basic technique of printing.
Textile printing is defined as the ‘localized dyeing’ or
restricted form of dyeing a particular area of cloth or
design.
Dyes or pigments are applied to produce attractive
patterns or designs with one or more colours.
Printing is quicker and cheaper method of colouring
fabrics.
Generally a pigment or paste is needed to print
textiles.
Printing is carried by different methods namely
block, screen, stencil etc.
PRINTING PASTE
In printing, dyes or pigments are applied in the gel form
to prevent the flowing of print design during printing
and subsequent drying.
Dyes are thickened by mixing it with gums or starches.
This thickened dye solution is called as print paste.
Print paste is composed of dyestuff, thickener,
hygroscopic agents and auxiliary chemicals.
Thickeners are added to improve the viscosity and
better penetration of the dyestuff into the fabric.
The thickener used for print paste preparation may be
natural like starch, gum Arabic or synthetic polymers
like polyvinyl alcohol and polyacrylamide.
Hygroscopic agents used for print paste preparation
are water soluble substances like urea and glycerine.
They help the dye to enter into the fibre structure for
fixation.
Auxilliary chemicals such as solvents improve dye
solubility and colour yield.
Additional chemicals may be added depending on the
fibres and dyes.
For example, citric acid may be added for acid dyes
or alkali added for reactive dyes.
Thickness and freshness of the printing paste are two
important aspects to be considered for the quality and
durability of printing.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND
PRINTING
DYEING PRINTING
The process of imparting Pigments or dyes are applied
colour to the fabric is called locally or discontinuously to
dyeing. produce different designs on
the fabric is known as printing.
It is performed on fabric, It is performed on fabric in dry
yarn or fibre in wet condition.
condition. Full-bleaching with optical
Half bleaching is enough for whitener is essential.
fabric preparation.
Printing is done on fabrics
Dyeing can be done on fibre, only.
yarn and fabric.
Colour is applied in form of
Colour is applied in the form
thick paste.
of solution.
For dyeing there is no design. For printing there is a
specific design.
Dyes are applied on both the Dyes are applied on single
sides of the fabric. side of the fabric.
Only one colour is generally
One or more colours are
used for dyeing
used in printing process.
In dyeing process, colour
penetrates through the fibre Colour is applied only on
or fabric. the surface.
A particular temperature is
maintained in the dyeing Carried out at room
process.
temperature.
Thickener is not used.
The density of dye solution is Thickener must be used.
low. The density of dye solution
is high.
Generally after dyeing, After printing, steaming and
steaming, and curing are not curing is must for fixing the
required. dye to the fabric.
Dyed fabrics are soft to Printed fabrics are harsh to
touch. touch.
Water consumption is high. Water consumption is low.
Huge time is required for Less time is required for
dye application. printing process.
Liquor ratio is high. Liquor ratio is less.
STYLES/ Techniques OF PRINTING
Direct
Discharge and
Resist styles.
Direct Style of Printing
The most common style of printing textile fabric is direct
printing.
In this method the dye is directly applied onto the fabric.
Dyes are used in paste form.
It is the simplest and oldest style of printing.
It can be done on a white fabric or coloured fabric.
The dye is imprinted on the fabric in paste form and any
desired pattern may be produced.
Dark colour prints in lighter background is the
characteristic feature of direct style printing.
In this style of printing, the printing paste is
transferred to the selected areas of the fabric and the
pigments adhere to the fabric surface.
Direct style of printing is used in block printing,
screen printing or roller printing methods.
easiest style of printing
economical
This style is easy, economical and
suitable for printing both simple
and complicated designs.
2. Discharge Style of Printing
In this method, the fabric is printed on a dyed fabric.
The printing paste used in this method contains a
discharging agent, which will bleach or destroy the
colour from the dyed fabric in the printed areas.
The resulting white area is brighten the overall
design.
Sometimes the base colour is removed and another
colour is printed in its place.
The discharging agent is an oxidizing or reducing
agent capable of discharging colours by oxidation and
reduction.
Potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate (oxidizing
agents) and stannous chloride (reducing agent) are
commonly used discharging agents.
The effects produced are very striking as the white
area obtained brightens the overall design.
This style of printing enabled intricate and fine
designs to be printed on the fabric.
If the fabric is not thoroughly washed after printing,
the strength of the fabric may be affected due to the
use of discharging agents.
The advantages of discharge style of printing
produces light, bright colour on a dark background,
printing is sharp and fine and easier to work.
However the major disadvantages of this method is
the cost involved.
3.Resist Style of printing
In this method, the bleached fabric is first printed with
a substance like wax, rice paste, china clay or
chemicals such as acids, alkalis and salts that resist dye
penetration and fixation.
The printed fabric is then dipped in cold dye bath, so
that the resisting agent remains unaffected and only the
areas free of the resist agent are coloured.
After dyeing process, the resist paste is removed,
leaving white or light coloured patterns on a dark
background.
Batik, tie and dye are examples of resist printing.
The durability of the fabric is not affected by
the resist method.