Hairstyling

“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had

wonderful things happen to you.”

– Mary Tyler Moore

Objectives
 Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair
wrapping.
 Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques.
 Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons.
 Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain
how they are used.
 Objectives (continued)

 Describe the three types of hair pressing.

 Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard
pressing.
 Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair.
Hairstyling is cyclical and changes regularly based
on fashion trends and lifestyle changes of society.
The art of finger waving was in special demand in
the Roaring Twenties, when the flapper attitude
and style were the “in” thing. If you watch the
runways today for great fashion designers, you
will see variations of that close-head Twenties
look, which are created with none other than finger
waves!
In today’s lesson, you will learn the art of finger waving. It is a
basic concept and procedure that will serve as the foundation
of many of the hairstyles you will provide in the salon.
Remember that even though hairstyle trends of the youth today
are freer and less rigid, there is still a large market for wet
styling, especially when you consider our aging society.
Learning to perform beautiful finger waves will
challenge you but will also ultimately serve you well
in your hair-designing career. Even if styles requiring
finger waving are not in demand, the technique
teaches you how to move and direct the hair. It helps
you develop the dexterity, coordination, and finger
strength required for professional hairstyling. It also
provides you with valuable training in creating
hairstyles and in molding hair to the curved surface of
the head.
After learning the basics of finger waving, the next
step in studying wet hairstyling is learning how to
create beautiful pin curls, which provide the
foundation for patterns, lines, waves, curls, and
rolls that you will use constantly when you design
and create hairstyles, whether for everyday or
evening wear. You can use pin curls on hair that is
straight, permanent-waved, or naturally curly,
although they are not suitable for hair that is overly
curly.
After learning about the fundamentals of finger waves and
pin curls, you'll then move into roller curls. Then, of
course, it will be necessary to study and practice comb-out
techniques to ensure your ability to finish a style and
satisfy your client.
Much earlier you studied about the characteristics of hair,
your medium, in the art of designing hairstyles. As you
continue working with wet styling, you will see more and
more how important knowledge of the hair quality is. The
texture, density, length, and condition will all have a
bearing on your styling results.
In wet styling, rollers are used to create many of the same
effects as stand-up pin curls. Rollers hold the equivalent of
two to four stand-up curls, saving a great deal of time, which
means money in this business. Because of the tension placed
on the hair around a roller, the set is stronger and longer
lasting than the set achieved with pin curls or blow-dry
styling. Also, rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and
lengths, which give the stylist versatility in creating styles.
Let’s take a closer look at all these wet hairstyling techniques.
Wet-Styling Tools
 Combs
 Brushes
 Rollers (short, medium, or long)
 Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged)
 Pins
 Clamps
Finger Waving

The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate

parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving
lotion, and hairpins or clippies.
Finger-Waving Lotion

 Makes hair pliable and holds it in place

 Made of karaya gum, which is found in trees of Africa and
India
 Diluted for use on fine hair
 Concentrated for regular or coarse hair
 Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry
 Avoid excessive amounts of
 Hint: Apply to one section of head at a time to prevent drying
and requiring additional applications.
Horizontal Finger Waving
 Preparing Hair for Wet Styling
 VERTICAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges run up and down the
head.
 HORIZONTAL FINGER WAVING: Ridges around the head
are sideways and parallel to the floor.
 Procedures will be covered during the practical class.
PIN CURLS.
• Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, curls,
and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles.
NOTE: If conducting practical class, instructor should
demonstrate each type of curl and procedure and have students
return the demonstration.
PARTS OF A CURL
•Base: The stationary, or immovable, foundation of the curl,
which is attached to the scalp.
•Stem: The section of the pin curl, between the base and first
arc (turn) of the circle, which gives the circle its direction and
mobility.
•Circle: The part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle.
The size of the circle governs the width of the wave and its
strength.
Pin Curls

 Parts of a Curl
 Base
 Stem
 Circle
MOBILITY OF A CURL:
The amount of movement (mobility) of a section of hair is
determined by the stem.
•No-stem: Placed directly on the base of the curl; produces a
tight, firm, long-lasting curl and allows minimum mobility.
•Half-stem: Permits medium movement; the curl (circle) is
placed half off the base; gives good control to the hair.
•Full-stem: Allows greatest mobility; curl is completely off
the base; base may be square, triangular, half-moon, or
rectangular depending on area of head in which the full-stem
curls are used. It gives as much freedom as the length of the
stem will permit; used to give hair a strong, definite direction
Mobility of a Curl

 No-stem

 Half-stem

 Full-stem
SHAPING:
The section of hair that is molded in a
circular movement in preparation for the
formation of curls.
Shapings are either forward end or
closed end. Always begin a pin curl at
the open end, or convex side, of a
shaping.
Shaping
 Begin at open end of a shaping.
OPEN- AND CLOSED-CENTER
CURLS
•Open-center curls: Produce even,
smooth waves and uniform waves.
•Closed-center curls: Produce waves
that decrease in size toward the end;
width of curl determines the size of the
wave.
Open- and Closed-Center Curls
 Open-center curls • Closed-center curls
Curl and Stem Direction
 CURL AND STEM DIRECTION: The finished result is
determined by the direction in which you place the stem of the
curl.
 Forward movement: Toward the face.
 Reverse movement: Backward or away from the face.
 Upward movement: Toward the top of the head.
 Downward movement: Toward the bottom of the head.
 Clockwise: Curls formed in same direction as the movement of
the hands of a clock.
 Counterclockwise: Curls formed in the opposite direction as the
movement of the hands of a clock.
PIN CURL FOUNDATIONS OR BASES: For control, divide the
hair into sections or panels. Subsections for bases should be as equal
as possible to avoid splits in the finished style.
•Rectangular base: Recommended at side front hairline for a
smooth upsweep effect; avoid splits in comb-out by overlapping
curls.
•Triangular base: Recommended along front or facial hairline to
prevent breaks or splits; allows a portion of hair from each curl to
overlap.
•Arc base: Also called half-moon or C-shape base; pin curls are
carved out of shaping; give good direction and may be used at
hairline or nape.
•Square base: Used for even construction for curly hairstyles
without much volume or lift; can be used anywhere on head; avoid
splits by staggering the sectioning (bricklay fashion).
Pin Curl Foundations or Bases
 Rectangular base • Arc base

 Triangular base • Square base

Pin Curl Techniques

 Ribboning:Forcing the hair

between thumb and back of
comb to create tension.

 Waves: Use two rows of pin

curls, one set clockwise and
the second set
counterclockwise.
 Pin Curl Techniques (continued)
 Carved/sculptured curls

 Ridge curls

 Skip waves
CREATING VOLUME WITH PIN CURLS
• Cascade (or stand-up) curls: Used to create height
in hair; placed on base with circle at 90-degree
angle (perpendicular) to head. Size of curl
determines height in comb out.
• Barrel curls: Curls that have large center openings
and are fastened to the head in a standing position
on a rectangular basis; similar to a roller but
without the same tension.
Creating Volume with Pin Curls

 Cascade curls

 Barrel curls
Roller Curl Advantages
 Speed

 Increased strength

 Greater creativity
ROLLER CURLS: Used to create many of the same
effects as stand-up pin curls.
ADVANTAGES
•Speed: Roller holds equivalent of two to four stand-up
curls.
•Increased strength: Hair is wrapped around roller with
tension, which gives stronger, longer-lasting set.
•Greater creativity: Rollers come in a variety of shapes,
widths, and sizes, which broadens the creative
possibilities for any style.
HOT ROLLERS
Hot rollers are to be used only on dry hair. They are heated
either electrically or by steam, and are a great timesaver in the
salon. Follow the same setting patterns as with wet setting, but
allow the hot rollers to stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A
thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair before setting.
The result is a curl that is less strong than a wet-set curl but
stronger and longer lasting than can be achieved using a
curling iron.
Some manufacturers have spray-on products to apply to each
section of hair to create a stronger set.
PARTS OF A ROLLER CURL
•Base: The panel of hair the roller is placed
on; should be same length and width as the
roller; base determines volume.
•Stem: The hair between the scalp and first
turn of the roller; stem gives the hair direction
and mobility, as with pin curls.
•Curl: The hair that is wrapped around the
roller; determines the size of the wave or curl.
Parts of a Roller Curl

 Base

 Stem

 Curl
Choosing Roller Size
 C-shaped curl • Curls

 Wave
CHOOSING ROLLER SIZE
•C-shaped curl: Created by one
complete turn around the roller.
•Wave: Created by one and one-half
turns around the roller.
•Curls: Created by two and one-half
turns around the roller.
ROLLER PLACEMENT
•On base: Full volume – roller sits directly on the
base; hair is overdirected slightly in front of base and
then rolled down to the base.
•Half base: Medium volume – roller sits half on its
base and half behind the base; hair is held straight up
from head and rolled down to the base.
•Off base: Least volume – roller sits behind the base;
strand is held at 45 degrees behind the base and
rolled down.
•Indentation: The point where curls of opposite
directions meet, forming a recessed area.
Roller Placement
• Off base
 On base

 Half base

• Indentation
Wet Styling

 Wet set with rollers

 Procedure will be covered during practical class.

Rollers
HOT ROLLERS: Hot rollers are to be used
only on dry hair. They are heated either
electrically or by steam and are a great
timesaver in the salon. Allow hot rollers to
stay on the hair for about 10 minutes. A
thermal protector can be sprayed on the hair
before setting. The result is a curl that is
weaker than a wet-set curl but stronger and
longer lasting than can be achieved using a
curling iron. Spray-on products are available
for application to each section of hair to create
a stronger set.
VELCRO™ ROLLERS: rollers are not allowed by
the state board of some states and provinces because
they are difficult to clean and disinfect properly. Check
with your regulatory agency to determine if you can
use them in your state.
Like hot rollers, Velcro™ rollers are used only on dry
hair. Using them on wet hair will snag and pull the
hair. They give more body than can be achieved with a
round brush, but less volume than a hot roller or wet
set will produce. When used after blow-drying,
Velcro™ rollers may provide just the amount of
volume you need.
Velcro™ rollers need to stay in the hair for only 5
to 10 minutes, depending on how much set you
want in the hair. Follow the same setting patterns as
with wet setting, but keep in mind that no clipping
is necessary to secure the roller. The Velcro™ fabric
grips the hair well and stays in place on its own.
Mist the entire head with hair spray, and then either
place the client under a hooded dryer for 5 to 10
minutes, or use the diffuser attachment on your
blow-dryer for the recommended time to give a soft
set to the hair.
BACK-COMBING TECHNIQUE
1. Pick up hair section. Starting near front, pick up section of hair about
same thickness as teeth on comb and 2 to 3 inches wide.
2. Insert comb. Insert fine teeth of comb into the hair at a depth of about 1
inch from scalp.
3. Press comb to scalp. Press comb gently down to scalp, rotating comb
down and out of hair. Repeat this process, working up the strand until the
desired volume is achieved.
4. Create cushion base. For a strong cushion base, the third time you insert
comb, use same rotating motion but firmly push hair down to scalp; slide
comb out of hair.
5. Repeat for volume. Work up strand until desired volume is achieved.
6. Smooth hair. To smooth hair, hold teeth of comb at a 45-degree angle
and pointed away from you; lightly move comb over hair surface.
HINT: Hair should be properly thinned or tapered for back combing to be
effective.
Back-Combing Technique
 Section hair.
 Insert comb.
 Press comb to scalp.
 Create cushion base.
 Repeat for volume.
 Smooth hair.
BACK-BRUSHING TECHNIQUE
1. Hold strand. Pick up and hold a strand straight out from the scalp.
2. Place brush. Maintaining a slight amount of slack in the strand,
place a teasing brush or a grooming brush near the base of the strand.
Push and roll the inner edge of the brush with the wrist until it
touches the scalp.
3. Roll brush. For interlocking to occur, the brush must be rolled.
4. Turn brush. Remove brush from the hair with a turn of the wrist,
peeling back a layer of hair. The hair will be interlocked to form a
soft cushion at the scalp.
5. Blend hair. Create softness and evenness of flow by blending,
smoothing, and combing.
6. Complete Styling. Use a light touch and use a tall comb to lift hair
as needed. Check for structural balance and use finishing spray.
Back-Brushing Technique
 Hold strand.
 Place brush.
 Roll brush.
 Turn brush.
 Blend hair.
 Complete styling.
Hair Wrapping

 Hair Wrapping Procedure

 Procedure will be covered during practical class.
Thermal Styling

 The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation

 Today’swomen desire styles that require less time and effort
to maintain.
Blow-Dry Styling Tools
 Blow-dryer
 Handle
 Slotted nozzle
 Small fan
 Heating element
 Speed/heat controls
 Diffuser
Combs, Picks, Clips
COMBS AND PICKS
Combs and picks are designed to distribute and part the hair. They
come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes to adapt to many styling
options. The length and spacing of the teeth vary from one comb to
another. Teeth that are closely spaced remove definition from the
curl and create a smooth surface; widely-spaced teeth shape larger
sections of hair for a more textured surface. Combs with a pick at
one end lift the hair away from the head.
SECTIONING CLIPS
Sectioning clips are usually metal or plastic and have long prongs to
hold wet or dry sections of hair in place. It is important to keep the
wet hair you are not working on sectioned off in clips so that it does
not sit over the dry hair. This is particularly important when drying
long hair.
Brushes
 Classicstyling brush
 Paddle brush
 Grooming brush
 Vent brush
 Round brush
 Teasing brush
Styling Products
 Foam  Volumizers
or mousse
 Gels  Pomade or wax

 Liquid  Silicone shiners

gels or texturizers
 Straightening  Hair spray or finishing spray
gels
STYLING PRODUCTS:
Known as liquid tools; give styles hold (ranging from light to very
firm) and add shine and curl, or take curl away. Some questions to
consider when choosing a styling product: How long does the style
need to hold? What will the environment be? What hair type does
client have?
•Foam or mousse: Builds body and volume into hair; use on damp
hair and dry into hair. Good for fine hair; will hold for six to eight
hours in dry conditions.
•Gels: Firm-bodied and usually clear or transparent; come in tubes
or bottles and have strong hold. They create long-lasting body as a
result of high resin level.
•Liquid gels or texturizers: Lighter and more viscous, or liquid, in
form.
•Straightening gels: Relax the hair for a smooth, straight look;
provide the most hold in dry outdoor conditions.
•Volumizers: Add volume to shape, especially at the base,
when hair is blown dry.
•Pomade or wax: Add considerable weight to the hair by
causing strands to join together, showing separation in the hair.
Easily molds dry hair; use sparingly.
•Silicone shiners: Add gloss and sheen to the hair while
creating textural definition. Non-oily products that are excellent
for all hair types; used for providing lubrication and protection
while blow-drying and for finishing at the very end to add
shine.
•Hair spray or finishing spray: Available in a variety of
holding strengths in aerosol and non-aerosol sprays.
Blow-Dry Cautions
 Do not hold dryer too long in one place, which could
burn the scalp.
 Air should flow in direction the hair is wound.
 Direct hot air away from the scalp.
 Move in back-and-forth motion unless using the
cooling button to cool a specific section.
 Partially dry before style blow-drying, due to the
hair’s elasticity. This is especially important on
damaged or chemically treated hair.
Blow-Dry Procedures
 Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair
 Diffusing long, curly hair
 Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume
 Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style
 Procedures will be covered during practical class.
Thermal Hairstyling
 Thermal waving and curling (also called marcel
waving) are methods of styling straight or pressed dry
hair using thermal irons and special manipulative
techniques. Thermal irons, which can be either
electrical or stove heated, have been modernized so
successfully that they are more popular today than
ever before. Manipulative techniques are basically the
same for electric irons or stove-heated irons.
THERMAL IRONS:
Provide an even heat that is completely
controlled by the stylist; should be made of
the best quality steel to hold an even
temperature.
All thermal irons have four basic parts:
•Rod handle
•Shell handle
•Barrel or rod (round, solid prong)
•Shell (the clamp that presses the hair against
the barrel or rod)
Thermal Irons

 Four parts
 Rod handle
 Shell handle
 Barrel or rod
 Shell
FLAT IRONS
Flat irons have two hot plates ranging in size from 1/2 inch to 3
inches across. Flat irons with straight edges are used to create
smooth, straight styles, even on very curly hair. Flat irons with
beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or cup the ends. The
edge nearest the stylist is called the inner edge; the one farthest
from the stylist is called the outer edge. Modern technology is
constantly improving electric curling and flat irons, by adding
infinite heat settings for better control, constant heat even on
high settings, ergonomic grips, and lightweight designs for ease
of handling.
Flat Irons
 Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across
 Used to create smooth, straight styles
TESTING THERMAL IRONS
1. Heat iron.
2. Clamp heated iron over tissue paper and hold for
five seconds.
3. If paper scorches or turns brown, iron is too hot.
4. Let cool a bit before using. Overly hot irons can
burn, scorch, or damage hair and can discolor white
hair. Fine, lightened, or badly damaged hair
withstands less heat than normal hair.
Testing Thermal Irons
 Heat iron.
 Clamp heated iron over tissue.
 Note if paper scorches.
 Let cool as needed.
Care of Thermal Irons
Wash in soap solution with a few drops of
ammonia to remove dirt or grease.
Use fine sandpaper or steel wool with a little oil
to remove rust and carbon and to polish.
Oil the joint to make sure you get more
movement.
THERMAL IRON COMB
•Size: Should be about 7 inches long, be made of hard
rubber or other inflammable substance, and should
have fine teeth.

•Holding the comb: Hold between thumb and all four

fingers of the left hand, with the index finger resting
on the backbone of the comb for better control and
one end of the comb resting against the outer edge of
the palm. This position assures a strong hold and a
firm movement.
Thermal Iron Comb

 Size

 Holding comb
Manipulating Thermal Irons
1.Grasp handles in dominant hand, far
enough away from joint to avoid heat.

2. Place three middle fingers on the back

of the lower handle, with little finger in
front of the lower handle and thumb in
front of the upper handle.
Practice with Cold Irons
PRACTICE WITH COLD IRONS
If you want to get really good at using curling irons, the key is to practice
manipulating them. Always practice with cold irons. The following four
exercises are designed to help you learn the most effective ways to use an
iron.
•Because it is important to develop a smooth rotating movement, practice
turning the iron while opening and closing it at regular intervals. Practice
rotating the iron in both directions—downward (toward you) and upward
(away from you).
•Practice releasing the hair by opening and closing the iron in a quick,
clicking movement.
•Practice guiding the hair strand into the center of the curl as you rotate the
iron. This movement ensures that the end of the strand is firmly in the
center of the curl.
•Practice removing the curl from the iron by drawing the comb to the left
and the rod to the right. Use the comb to protect the client's scalp from
burns.
Other Types of Curls
 Spiral curls
 Part hair.
 Insert iron.
 Rotate iron.
 Hold for 4 to 5 seconds.
 Remove iron.
Other Types of Curls (continued)

• End curls.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)
 Volume-base thermal curls
 Section off base.
 Hold strand at 135-degree angle.
 Slide iron over strand.
 Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
 Maintain position for 5 seconds.
 Roll curl and place on base.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

 Full-base thermal curls

 Section off base.
 Hold strand at 125-degree angle.
 Slide iron over strand.
 Wrap strand with medium tension.
 Maintain position for 5 seconds.
 Roll curl and place firmly on base.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)
 Half-base thermal curls
 Section off base.
 Hold hair at 90-degree angle.
 Slide iron over hair strand.
 Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
 Maintain position for 5 seconds.
 Roll curl and place it half on base.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

 Off-base thermal curls

 Section off base.
 Hold hair at 70-degree angle.
 Slide iron over strand.
 Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
 Maintain position for 5 seconds.
 Roll curl and place off base.
Finished Thermal Curl Settings
Safety Measures

 Keep irons clean.

 Get instructions for use of irons.
 Do not overheat.
 Test temperature.
 Handle carefully.
 Place hot irons in safe place to cool.
 Don’t place handles too close to heater.
 Safety Measures (continued)

 Properly balance irons in heater.

 Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs.
 Do not use metal combs.
 Place comb between scalp and iron.
 Curl only clean, dry hair.
 Avoid fishhooks.
 Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.
 Thermal Hair Straightening
Types
 THERMAL HAIR STRAIGHTENING:
 Also called hair pressing. Temporarily straightens
extremely curly or unruly hair by means of irons or
combs. A pressing generally lasts until the next
shampoo. It prepares the hair for additional service
such as thermal roller curling and croquignole
thermal curling
THREE TYPES
•Soft press: Removes about 50 percent to 60 percent of the
curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb once
on each side of the hair.
•Medium press: Removes about 60 percent to 75 percent of
the curl; accomplished by applying thermal pressing comb
once on each side of hair using slightly more pressure than for
a soft press.
•Hard press: Removes 100 percent of the curl; accomplished
by applying thermal pressing comb twice on each side of hair.
Can also be done by first passing a hot curling iron through
the hair. This is called a double press.
 Analysis of Hair and Scalp

 Wave pattern of hair  Elasticity of hair

 Length of hair  Shade of hair
 Texture of hair  Condition of hair
 Feel of hair  Condition of scalp
ANALYSIS OF HAIR AND SCALP
•Wave pattern of hair: Curly or overly curly.
•Length of hair: Long, medium, or short.
•Texture of hair: Coarse, medium, fine, or very fine.
•Feel of hair: Wiry, soft, or silky.
•Elasticity of hair: Normal or poor. Under normal
conditions, a client’s hair has good elasticity if it can be
safely stretched to about 50 percent of its original length. If
porosity is normal, then the hair returns to its natural wave
pattern when it is wet or moistened.
•Shade of hair: Natural, faded, streaked, gray, tinted, or
lightened.
•Condition of hair: Normal, brittle, dry, oily, damaged, or
chemically treated.
•Condition of scalp: Normal, flexible, or tight.
Texture and Feel of Hair
 Coarse, overly curly
 Medium

 Fine

 Wiry
 Pressing and Scalp Conditions
 SCALP CONDITIONS
 Normal: Proceed with analysis of hair.
 Tight with coarse hair: Press in direction of hair growth.
 Flexible: Pressing may take more pressure.
 CAUTION: Hair pressing should NOT be done on a client with scalp
abrasions, a contagious scalp condition, scalp injury, or chemically
damaged or relaxed hair. If any of these conditions exist, advise client to
see a dermatologist. Failure to correct dry and brittle hair can result in
hair breakage during hair pressing. Burnt hair strands cannot be
conditioned.
 INTAKE FORM: Maintain a thorough and accurate history of the
client’s hair and scalp condition and all services received with client
record cards.
ACTIVITY:
Have two students volunteer to role-play the
situation described in the textbook where a client
has to be advised that his hair is not suitable for a
pressing service. Have students use their own
words for the role-play. Have the observing
students provide feedback on the dialogue. Then
have the students reverse roles and role-play
another scenario regarding a client consultation
prior to a hair pressing service.
Conditioning Treatments

 CONDITIONING TREATMENTS: Effective

conditioning treatments involve special cosmetic
preparations for the hair and scalp, thorough brushing,
and scalp massage.
 Cosmetic preparations
 Thorough brushing
 Scalp massage
 Pressing Combs
 Construction
 Handles
 Teeth
 Tempering the comb
 Heat comb.
 Remove comb.
 Coat in oil.
 Cool and rinse.
PRESSING COMBS (REGULAR AND ELECTRIC)
CONSTRUCTION: Quality stainless steel or brass.
HANDLES: Usually made of wood or substance that does not
readily absorb heat.
TEETH: More space between teeth produces a coarse or open-
looking press. Less space between teeth produces a smoother
press. Shorter combs are used with short hair and long combs
are used with long hair.
TEMPERING THE COMB: Allows the brass to hold heat
evenly along the entire length of the comb which gives better
results. Tempering also burns off any polish the manufacturer
may have used to coat the comb.
1.Place comb in heating appliance until very hot.
2.Remove comb.
3.Coat in petroleum or pressing oil.
4.Cool and rinse
 Pressing Combs (continued)
 Heating the comb
 Testing the temperature
 Attachment

 Cleaning the comb

HEATING THE COMB:
Regular combs are heated on a gas stove or in an electric heater. During heating,
teeth should face up and handle should be kept away from fire. Some combs have
an on/off switch; others have a thermostat that indicates degrees of heat.
TESTING THE TEMPERATURE: Test on light piece of paper; if paper
becomes scorched, allow comb to cool slightly before applying to hair.
ATTACHMENT: The attachment fits the nozzle of a standard hand-held blow-
dryer and is less damaging than an electric comb or an oven-heated comb.
CLEANING THE COMB: Combs are more efficient if kept clean and free of
carbon.
1.Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and dust. Intense heat keeps comb sterile once
all loose hair or clinging dirt is removed.
2.Remove carbon by rubbing outside surface and between teeth with emery board,
a fine-steel wool pad, or fine sandpaper.
3.Immerse metal portion in hot baking-soda solution for one hour.
4.Rinse and dry thoroughly. Metal should acquire a smooth and shiny appearance.
 Pressing Combs (continued)

 Cleaning the comb

 Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris.
 Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine
sandpaper.
 Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour.
 Rinse and dry thoroughly.
 Pressing Oil Benefits
 Makes hair softer
 Prepares hair for pressing
 Prevents hair from burning
 Helps prevent breakage
 Conditions hair after pressing
 Adds sheen
 Helps retain press
 Soft Pressing for Normal Curly
Hair

 17-17 Soft Curl Press

 You should be aware that the only difference between a
soft curl press and a hard press is that the entire
procedure is repeated during a hair press. Pressing oil
should be added to hair strands only if necessary.
 Procedure will be covered during practical class.
 What to Avoid When Pressing
 Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp
 Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt)
 Perfumed pressing oil near scalp
 Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)
 Reminders and Hints
 Keep comb clean and carbon free.
 Avoid overheating pressing comb.
 Test comb temperature.
 Adjust temperature.
 Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin.
 Prevent smoking/burning of hair.
 Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.
 Injuries
 There are two types of injuries:
 Immediate physical damage: These injuries are the immediate
results of hair pressing and cause physical damage, such as burnt
hair that breaks off, burnt scalp that causes either temporary or
permanent loss of hair, and burns on the ears and neck that form
scars.
 Not immediately evident: These injuries can later cause
physical damage, such as a skin rash if the client is allergic to
pressing oil, or the breaking and shortening of hair due to
overly frequent hair pressings.
 HINT: In case of scalp burn, immediately apply 1 percent
gentian violet jelly.
Special Considerations
 PRESSING FINE HAIR: Don’t use too much heat or
pressure; apply less pressure near hair ends.
 PRESSING SHORT FINE HAIR: Take extra care at
hairline and avoid excessive heat in comb.
 PRESSING COARSE HAIR: Extra pressure is needed for
hair to remain straightened.
 PRESSING TINTED, LIGHTENED, OR GRAY HAIR:
Lightened hair may require conditioning treatment; use
moderately heated pressing comb applied with light pressure.
Breakage and discoloration can occur on tinted, lightened, or
gray hair if excessive heat is used.
Styling Long Hair: Updos
 When longer hair is arranged up and off the neck and
shoulders and secured with pins or other implements, it is
known as an updo.
 You need to have a plan; you need to appropriately section
the hair and clip hair out of the way while you work. Let’s
take a look at how to create some interesting styles and updos
with long hair.
 Valuable services:
 Weddings
 Proms
 Other evening events
Client Consultation
 Determine client desires.
 For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring
headpiece.
 Suggest trial run or make suggestions of styles you think
might be appropriate.
 If bridal, bring headpiece.
 Styling Long Hair
 Knot: also called a chignon
 Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere
 Pleat:traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie
events (sometimes called a classic French twist)
 Procedures will be covered during practical class.
 Summary and Review
 What is the purpose of finger waving?
 What are the three parts of a pin curl?
 Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.
 Summary and Review (continued)
 Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of each.
 What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing?
 How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-drying?
 List and describe various styling products used in blow-drying.
 How is volume achieved with thermal curls?
 Summary and Review (continued)

 List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons.

 Name and describe three types of hair presses.
 How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a
service?
 Summary and Review (continued)

 What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis prior

to hair pressing?
 Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed?
 Listat least four safety measures that must be followed when
pressing hair.
 Congratulations!

You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.