Modified Cellulose Fibers: Acetate and Triacetate
Manufacture of Acetate (Secondary or Regular)
The raw material for manufacturing acetate include cellulose,
acetic acid, and acetic anhydride, plus sulphuric acid as a
catalyst.
Cellulose is obtained from either wood pulp or cotton linters,
which is then purified, bleached, and shredded and fed into pre-
treatment tanks, the shredded cellulose is thoroughly mixed
with glacial acetic acid and held for a specific length of time.
The pretreated pulp is transferred to kneading machines called
acetylators, where acetic anhydride is added.
During this step the cellulose assumes liquid form as a new
chemical compound, cellulose acetate.
The clear liquid is called acid dope. It is aged or ripened in
special storage tanks, with water added as needed to
reduce the acid concentration.
Hydrolysis occurs during the ripening and results in the
formation of acetate.
When this secondary acetate solution is mixed with water,
it precipitates out in the form of small flakes.
The flakes are washed thoroughly and dried.
During the precipitation and washing process the excess
acetic acid and sulphuric acid are recovered for reuse.
The cellulose acetate flakes are dissolved in acetone to form
spinning dope. This spinning solution is forced, first through
the spinnerets into a warm air chamber. Here the acetone
evaporates and is recovered for reuse while the acetate
coagulates as it falls through the chamber. The filaments
traveling downward are twisted together to form yarns. This
method of fiber manufacture is called dry spinning.
Manufacture of Triacetate (Arnel)
Triacetate is manufactured from the same raw material as
secondary acetate, but the ripening stage, in which hydrolysis
of the acetate occurs, is omitted in triacetate production. To
produce the spinning solution, the dried triacetate flake is
dissolved in methylated chloride and dry spun into a warm air
chamber.
Fiber Properties
Microscopic Properties:
Longitudinally acetate is uniform in width with several lines
parallel to the length. These striations are farther apart
than in viscose rayon. Bright acetate is clear while dull or
pigmented acetate appears speckled or pitted. The cross
section of acetate is lobed with irregular curves but no
sharp serrations like found in viscose.
Triacetate is very similar in microscopic appearance to
acetate. It may have clearer striations, and the cross
section is both lobed and somewhat serrated.
Physical Properties:
Property Acetate Triacetate
Shape Can be controlled by manufacturer
Luster controlled controlled
Strength gpd
Dry 1.2-1.5 1.2-1.4
Wet 0.9-1.0 0.8-1.0
%elastic recovery 48-65 @ 4% 80-84 @ 4%
extension extension
% elongation
Dry 23-45 25-40
Wet 35-45 30-40
Resiliency low Good
% moisture 6.5 3.2-3.5
absorption
At 20ºC 65% RH
Thermal Properties:
Acetate and triacetate are thermoplastic fibers and are easily
softened by high temperatures. The fiber melt and burn evenly,
forming a hard, black bead ash. They give off an odor similar to
that of hot vinegar.
Because of their sensitivity to high temperatures, acetate
fabrics should be ironed at low to medium settings with steam.
Triacetate can be “heat treated” to withstand higher
temperatures without damage.
The same treatment also permits setting permanent pleats and
creases in Arnel triacetate fabrics.
Chemical Properties:
Dilute alkalis have little effect on acetate or triacetate.
Concentrated alkalis cause saponification of both and
eventually a loss in fiber weight and reduction in the soft
hand of fabrics.
Concentrated acids weaken the fibers drastically and in most
instances cause complete disintegration.
Dilute hot acids may cause decomposition or, at least, a loss
of strength. Cold dilute acids weaken the fiber if exposure is
prolonged.
Petroleum products used in dry cleaning do not damage
acetate or triacetate. However, solvents such as acetone,
phenol and chloroform will destroy the fibers. One should be
cautious using finger nail polish remover, paint removers
and the like, for they often contain acetone.
Biological Properties
Fungi such as mildew and bacteria may discolor acetate fibers.
Some weakening of acetate may occur but triacetate retains its
strength.
Moths and other household pests do not damage acetates and
triacetates. Silver fish may attack heavily sized fibers in order to
eat the sizing.
Sunlight causes a loss of strength in acetate fiber but has little
effect on triacetate.
In storage, too acetate fibers become weaker while Arnel
triacetate has excellent stability to aging.
All acetates develop static charges, especially when dry, because
they are poor conductors of electricity.
Use:
Regular acetate is preferred by many designers for its outstanding drapability
and desirable hand. It can be made into fabrics of varying weight, thickness and
degree of softness or stiffness.
Because of the thermoplastic property, acetate should be either dry cleaned or
laundered and ironed at warm, not hot, temperatures.
The relatively low moisture regain of acetate renders fibers resistant to damage
by staining and size change from shrinkage or stretch. In addition to a wide
variety of apparel applications, acetate is used in household fabrics, such as
drapery and upholstery materials.
Triacetate accepts permanent pleats and creates that will withstand wear and
maintenance. The fabric is dimensionally stable and can be processed and
maintained at temperatures slightly higher than regular acetate. It has a crisper
hand than acetate.
