Apparel Distribution: Inter-Firm Contracting and Intra-Firmorganization

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APPAREL

DISTRIBUTION
INTER-FIRM CONTRACTING AND INTRA-FIRMORGANIZATION

Group 8 (Section A)
THEORY OF THE FIRM
It consist of number of micro-eco theories which deals with the existence, structure and behavior
of an organization
In simplified terms, the “theory of the firm” aims to answer these questions:
Existence. Why do firms emerge, why are not all transactions in the economy mediated over
the market?
Boundaries. Why is the boundary between firms and the market located exactly there as to
size and output variety? Which transactions are performed internally and which are
negotiated on the market?
Organization. Why are firms structured in such a specific way, for example as to hierarchy or
decentralization? What is the interplay of formal and informal relationships?
Heterogeneity of firm actions/performances. What drives different actions and performances
of firms?
Evidence. What tests are there for respective theories of the firm?
TRANSACTION COST THEORY

INTER-FIRM CONTRACTING
VS INTRA-FIRM
ORGANIZATION
 Devised by Ronald Coase in 1937
 Internal Transaction cost > External
Transaction cost, firms go for Inter firm
contracting
 Or else firms opt for internal
organization
 Vertical Integration/ Forward
Integration
 Devised by Ronald Coase in 1937
 Least-cost-avoider theory
THE HIGH-END
DEPARTMENT STORES GENESIS
Higher Status labels did not have shops • Department stores had its roots with
Suits were not sold via tailors
antecedents
DS was the ultimate buying point • Multi-floored buildings with number of
stores
• E.g. Tobu had 1st floor for
CONTRACTUAL PRACTICE cosmetics, 2nd for women apparels and
• Right to return by Onward Kashiyama in mid- 3rd and 4th for women clothing and
1950s jewelry
• Ensured that he did not lose sales for lack of THREE CONTRACTUAL TERMS
department store stock EMERGED
• To handle business risk, Kashiyama took two 1. DS obtained title goods and
steps: customary right to return at full price
1. Control over price 2. Contractual right to return
2. Seconded Employees (to monitor sales) 3. Goods on consignment
THE MIDDLE MARKET
(MASS MARKET CHAINS)
General merchandize stores/super stores
Three largest chains sell more merchandize than largest DS
Positioned variously in enormous expanse between Walmart and Sachs (US equivalent)
Ito Yokado
Not discount stores, good value at slightly higher price
Can find Prada, but more space to American Tourister
Goods show price sensitivity, customers can easily gauge quality
Clean stores, good natured employees
Shimamura
True discount store; shabby place; harassed few workers
“Oh, so cheap”
SPECIALITY STORES

Sub-segment of middle segment


Different since owned or franchised by a specific brand
Relatively newersegment
Created for particular segments when forward integration madesense
Aoyama shoji forbusiness suits segment
San’ei foryoung chic segment
Fast Retailing for Cheap chic casualsegment
FRAGMENTATION ALONG VALUE CHAIN
Raw Material • Mostly imported, 913 establishments, 8700 workers

Thread Manufacturing • Spinning firms, 540 firms, 25700 workers, also imported

Thread Finishing • Brokers (922, 6600 workers), Finishing (5480, 23600 workers)

Weaving, knitting • 31800 firms, 169300 workers

Printing and Finishing • Wholesaler (6005, 52900 workers), Print shops (6305, 75200), foreign
competition

Garment Manufacturing • Apparel maker (in-house), independent factories (50890, 566700 workers)

Wholesaler • 23200, 286800 workers, foreign imports (16102bn yen)

• Department stores (2364, 156800 workers)


Retailing • Other outlets (183633, 644524 workers), convenience stores
KEY PLAYERS
Apparel Makers
Design in-house or approach a designer
Manufacture in-house or outsource manufacturing
Keep no fabric or thread in stock
Wholesalers/Brokers
Reflects division of labor into very small operations
Provide information about market, bear risk
Economize on search costs for trading partners
Retailers
Departmental Stores
Other outlets
Convenience stores (Sell underwear, socks etc., handle 11795bn yen’s worth)
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS

Business suits
Shift from tailor-made to ready-made suits
Reduced retailers’ reputational capital (Department stores affected)
Emergence of new players, Aoyama shoji and Aoki International
Basic business suits, long shelf life
Owned stores, exploited scale economies
Forward integration to obtain accurate information about consumer
preferences, plan production statically beforehand
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS

Young chic
Department stores traditionally avoided this segment
Rising consumer incomes, highly trend conscious
Emergence of Harajuku’s fashion industries
San’ei and Five Foxes major players
Forward integrated to capitalize on-
Repeat purchases
Response time
Quick Response systems
Integration limited to wholesale in upstream
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS

Young chic casual


Fast Retailing at the forefront with its “Uni-Qlo” stores
Replacing dark suits with Khaki casual
Non-age uni-sex casual wear
Integrated wholesale and retail to cut on response
time
CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS

For segments other than the extreme cases


Wholesaling only
Economies of scope leading to scale
economies (San’yo Shokai), marketing expertise
Manufacturing only
Economies of scope leading to scale economies (Wacoal),
manufacturing expertise
Both manufacturing and wholesaling
Onward Kashiyama
IMPLICATIONS

On Exclusivity
Huge quantities on imports
High correlation between exchange rates and imports
On Efficiency
Highly competitive market
Low distribution margins
On Opacity
Cost based rationale (Price mechanisms)

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