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Drafting The Sleeve Sloper: A M D 225 Patternmaking I

The document discusses drafting the basic sleeve sloper pattern. It describes two basic sleeve classifications: set-in sleeves and sleeve-bodice combinations. It also describes variations of the basic sleeve like dartless, quartering, and different sleeve designs. The key parts of the basic sleeve are identified like the sleeve cap, cap height, grainline, biceps level, elbow level, and wrist level. It explains how to relate the sleeve cap to the torso and bodice armscye through cap ease and notches. Finally, it discusses fitting the sleeve and identifying problems like sleeve rotation that need correction.

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101 views9 pages

Drafting The Sleeve Sloper: A M D 225 Patternmaking I

The document discusses drafting the basic sleeve sloper pattern. It describes two basic sleeve classifications: set-in sleeves and sleeve-bodice combinations. It also describes variations of the basic sleeve like dartless, quartering, and different sleeve designs. The key parts of the basic sleeve are identified like the sleeve cap, cap height, grainline, biceps level, elbow level, and wrist level. It explains how to relate the sleeve cap to the torso and bodice armscye through cap ease and notches. Finally, it discusses fitting the sleeve and identifying problems like sleeve rotation that need correction.

Uploaded by

adelfa
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Chapter 3

Drafting the Sleeve Sloper


A M D 225 Patternmaking I
Sleeves
Two Basic Sleeve Classifications
Set-in Sleeve Sleeve-bodice Combinations
• sleeve cut separately and • sleeve combined in part, or
stitched into the armhole of with the entire bodice
the bodice • Chapter 15
• Chapter 14
Variations of the Basic Sleeve
Additional Sleeve Slopers Sleeve Designs
• Dartless sleeve: • Bell sleeve
– A straight sleeve without an
• Bishop sleeve:
elbow dart that is used as a • Cap sleeve
base to create many sleeve • Cowl sleeve
designs. • Extended cap
• Quartering sleeve: • Lantern sleeve
• Leg-of-mutton sleeve
– Sleeve divided into four equal
• Petal sleeve
parts from cap to wrist.
• Puff sleeve
– Used as guidelines for
• Roll-up sleeve
spreading the sleeve.
• Wedding sleeve
The Basic Pattern Set

SLEEVE DRAFT
Parts of the Basic Sleeve
• Sleeve cap:
– Curved top of the sleeve from front to back.
• Cap height:
– Distance from biceps to cap at center.
• Grainline:
– Center of the sleeve from top of the cap to
wrist level—straight grain of sleeve.
• Biceps level:
– The widest part of the sleeve, dividing the cap
from the lower sleeve.
• Elbow level:
– The location of the dart is level with the elbow
of the arm.
• Wrist level:
– The bottom (hemline) of the long sleeve, level
with the wrist.
Relationship of Sleeve Cap to Torso &
Bodice Armscye
Cap ease Notches
• Difference between the cap • What is the purpose of
and armhole measurements notching front and back
– (ranging from 1 to 1 7/8”). sleeve cap?
• Walk the sleeve along the • How many notches &
where?
armhole to mark the
– One notch = front sleeve;
location of the notch to – two notches = back sleeve.
equalize cap ease. – Cap notch indicates where
the sleeve and the shoulder
meet (location can vary from
center grainline).
Fitting the Sleeve
• We will learn how to:
– Identify and correct problems with the fit of the
sleeve
– Explain sleeve rotation and the correction that
would upright the sleeve.
Fitting the Sleeve to the Bodice / Torso
• Identify when the • Correct the basic sleeve
sleeve is in need of that hangs away from
rotation. the side of the garment.

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