Session 2 – Pre Production

Operations
Spreading & Cutting
CUTTI
NG
ROOM
 Resources People

Fabric storage Cutting manager

Equipments
Cutting master
storage

Assistants -
Tables
spreaders
Cutting room flow process
Cutting room flow process

Planning

Spreading

Cutting

Preparation for sewing

Cutting room flow process
Spreads

Markers
Planning
Production

Manual
Spreading
Machine

Machine

Die Press
Cutting

Computer

Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles
 Cut order planning
 It translates customer orders into cutting orders

 minimize total production costs

 meet deadlines

 seek most effective use of labor, equipment,

fabric and space
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
 Examining incoming orders and piece goods width
and availability
 Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning
procedures for marker making
 Determining whether file markers are available or
new ones are needed
Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
 Developing specifications for optimum marker
making and fabric utilization
 Determine most effective use of spreading and
cutting equipment and personnel
 Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and
cutting
 Most common considerations
1) Number of sizes in order
2) Number of colors in order
3) Max/min number of sizes allowed in marker
4) Maximum spread length
5) Maximum ply height
6) Percentage of overcut or undercut units
7) Fabric cost per yard
8) Usable cloth width
9) Width variation
10) Common lines among pattern pieces
11) Costs of marking markers, spreading, cutting, bundling
12) Fabric roll change time
 Defect maps
1) Defect maps identify location of breaks & flaws,
width variations and length of pieces on a role
2) Can be e-mailed so cut plans can be prepared
much before the fabric arrives
3) A.k.a. chart spreading
 Results of
Cut Order Planning

Cutting Orders
Leads to

Marker planning Lay planning

 Marker Planning
• The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker
planning and cut planning.
• The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient
combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best
fabric yield and equipment utilization.
• One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum
efficiency.
• A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
• Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table
space.
• Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
– table length,
– type of equipment,
– spread length,
– spreading time and
– cutting time.
 Requirements of Marker Planning
1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the
finished garment
– Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric
– Symmetry and asymmetry
– The design characteristic of the finished garment
2. The requirements of cutting quality
3. The requirements of production planning

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 Marker Making
Marker
 is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut
from a single spread.

Marker Making
 is the process of determining the most efficient
layout of pattern pieces for a specified style,
fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time,
skill and concentration)
 Marker Making

Computerized marker
Manually produced
making (CAD)
 Plotting
The process of drawing or printing pattern
pieces or markers on paper so they can be
reviewed or cut.

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 Duplications of marker
Carbon duplicating
• – small no. of copies only are made (6–8)
Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system
• – uses alcohol and it is a messy process many copies
can be produced
Diazo photographic method
• – the master marker and light sensitive paper passes
under high intensity ultra violet light and the light
sensitive paper is developed using ammonia

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 Cuttable width
 The width of fabric which can be cut usefully

 Center selvege

 Variance in width of fabric

 Shortage of time

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Sectional Marker & Stepped Lay

Markers are of two types:

a. Blocks or Sections
b.Continuous
 Dimensions of marker
 Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of
the pattern pieces for one style in one or
two sizes
 Continuous markers contain all the pattern
pieces for all sizes included in a single
cutting
 a. Sectioned or Blocked Marker

A STEPPED SPREAD
plies of varied length, spread at different heights
used to adjust the quantity of piece goods to the number of garments
to be cut from each section of the marker
Sections may be joined to form multi-size marker
Pattern parts of one size in close proximity
Advantageous when there is end-to-end shade variations
 b. Continuous Marker

Contain all pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting
Pattern pieces are grouped by size and shape of the pieces rather
than by garment size
Better utilization because more flexibility in grouping and
manoeuvring large pieces and small pieces
 Splice Marks
points in marker where fabric can be cut and
the next piece overlapped to maintain a
continuous spread
Used in continuous marker
Splices are needed when flaws are removed, a
roll change is made, or a short length of fabric is
used
 Splice Marks
Maybe 1 inch or more
Splice marks are inherent when markers are
planned in blocks
Splice marks are used to avoid excessive fabric
waste and incomplete pieces
 Types of Markers

Open marker – Marker made with full

pattern pieces

Closed Marker – Marker made with half

garment parts pieces for laying along the
folds of the tube (tubular knit)
 Closed Marker
 tubular fabric
symmetric garment/pattern part
the pattern parts are folded in half in their length
half-patterns are placed where the pattern fold is
superimposed over the fabric’s folded edge
when this pattern is cut, the result is a full body
part
Closed Marker
Marker Modes
 Marker Modes

Is determined by the symmetry and directionality

of fabric

 Nap either way (N/E/W)

 Nap one way (N/O/W)

 Nap up and down (N/U/D)

 The term Nap is used to indicate the fabric is
directional.
N/E/W –with symmetric, non directional fabrics,
pattern pieces can be placed on a marker with only
consideration for grain line
N/O/W – all the pattern pieces be placed on a marker
in only one direction, e.g. horse print
N/U/D – all pattern pieces of one size to be placed in
one direction and another size placed in opposite
direction. eg. corduroy
 Requirements of Marker Planning
1. Nature of the fabric and the desired result in the
finished garment
– Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of
the fabric (pocketing fabric)
– Symmetry and asymmetry (velvet, cord)
– The design characteristic of the finished
garment (mitering, print placement, etc.)
2. The requirements of cutting quality
3. The requirements of production planning
 Plotting
The process of drawing or printing pattern
pieces or markers on paper so they can be
reviewed or cut.

Patterns/graded nests.

Bottleneck - when lot of copies required

Manual marker

Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply

Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.

Time consuming.

Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line,

poor line definition, omission of pcs.)

Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

Computerised marker
Accurate

Shortest response time.

Direct or digitized.

Manipulate images to determine best utilization.

No overlapping/no omissions

Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are

entered into the computer.
Computerised marker

Can be printed/recalled/modified.

Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to

determine fabric requirement.

A 50-pc marker takes less than 1 minute!!!

Miniature marker
Marker Efficiency
Marker Efficiency

Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%

Total area of the marker plan
 It is determined for fabric utilization

 Minimum waste
Marker Efficiency

 Planimeter – a mechanical device that

calculates the area as the outline of
pattern is traced
Marker Efficiency
Factors affecting marker efficiency

 Fabric characteristics

 Shape of Pattern pieces

 Grain requirements
Marker Efficiency
Fabric characteristics

Lengthwise directionality
Crosswise symmetry
Need for matching the fabric design.
Length of design repeat.
Fabric width.
Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces

Markers containing large and small pcs.

The shape of pattern pcs.

Large pcs – less flexibility.

Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces
Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency:

split pattern pieces and create a seam

reduce seam allowances and/or hem width

adjust and modify grain-line

rounding or slanting corners

Marker Efficiency
Shapes of pattern pieces
Patterns are sometimes modified to increase efficiency:

Adjusting pattern dimensions w/o noticeable

change to fit & style

Adjusting grain lines for hidden garment parts

Modifying grain lines specified by the designer

Marker Quality
Marker Quality

 Complete data
 Precise lines

 Overlaps

 Rounded corners

 Off grain

 Omissions
Spreading – Modes & Methods
Spreading – Modes & Methods

Spreading

processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a

spreading table cutting table or specially
designed surface in preparation for the cutting
process

Spread or lay

total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker

 Spreading mode
Spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid
out for cutting
Direction of the fabric:
 it may be positioned in two ways face-to-face
(F/F) or with all plies facing-one-way (F/O/W)

Direction of the Fabric Nap:

 it may be positioned nap-one-way (N/O/W) or
nap-up-down
Spreading modes
F/O/W
N/O/W

F/F
N/O/W

F/F
N/U/D

F/O/W
N/U/D
 Measures to maintain Spreading Q.
 Shade sorting of cloth pieces
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
 Alignment of plies
 Correct ply tension (*recuts)
 Elimination of fabric faults
 Elimination of static electricity
 Flatness of spread
 Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting
 Setup for spreading
 Verifying cutting orders
 Positioning materials

 Preparing cutting tables

 Preparing machines

 Loading machine
Reloading and delay time may use up to 70% of
the time required for the entire spreading
operation
 Methods of spreading

 Spreading by hand
 Spreading using a travelling machine
(100 to 150 yards per minute)
spreading equipments

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 Spreading Equipment
Basic spreading equipment consists of:

Spreading surfaces,
Spreading machines,
Fabric control devices
Fabric cutting devices

61
 Spreading surfaces
Should be smooth & flat
Spreading and cutting is done on the
same surface
automated cutting - spreading & cutting
done in adjacent but separate locations
spreading surface s.b. about 10 inches
wider than the fabric
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 Spreading tables
may have tracks or rails to guide &
control the spreader
Pin tables
have rows of pins located below the
surface that can be extended through slots
to hold fabric in a precise location for
accurate matching of pattern repeats
63
 Vacuum tables
spread is covered with a plastic film
vacuum is applied to compress the lay
compression - 75 %
allows more plies in the lay-up
restricts movement of slippery fabrics

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Either move the Cutting m/c to
the lay or vice versa!!

65
A. Cutting m/c can be moved to the lay as
another lay is prepared further down the
table
B. fabric is spread, then transferred to the
cutting surface
(i) Air flotation tables - layer of air
between the table surface and the
bottom layer of paper
(ii) Spreading tables with conveyorized
surfaces (used with computerized, die
and laser cutters)
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 Spreading Machine
Purpose : to superimpose layers of fabric in
a smooth, tension-free manner for accurate
and efficient cutting
1. By hand
2. Manually operated spreading machines
3. Automated machines (100-150 yds/min),
motor driven, fabric control devices,
good productivity, less variability, more
cost-efficient
67
 Spreading Machine

Automatic Spreading Machine with fabric control devices 68

Fully Automated Spreading Machine

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Automated system for handling open width rolls

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 Fabric control devices
mechanisms that control fabric as it is
carried up and down the table and
unrolled by the spreading machine
These devices include:
(i) Tensioning mechanisms,
(ii) Positioning devices, and
(iii) End treatment systems
71
 Fabric control devices
(i) Tensioning involves synchronizing the rate of
spreading with the rate fabric is unrolled
(ii) Positioning devices and sensors monitor
position & control fabric placement during
spreading. In case of deviation, motor shifts the
roll to the correct position. Accuracy–1/8”
(iii) Width indicators sound an alarm whenever
fabric becomes narrower than the estd. width
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 Fabric control devices
(iv) End treatment devices - end catcher & folding
blade - mounted at opposite ends - end catcher
holds the fabric as the blade shapes and creases
the fold
(v) Knife box – small rotary knife – cuts the fabric
in case of FOW

73
 Spreading costs
1. Labour cost
2. Fabric waste
3. Splicing loss
4. End loss
5. Width loss

74
cutting equipments

75
 Cutting quality
Factors that cause cutting inaccuracies
Wide or vague lines on the marker
Imprecise following of lines on the marker
Variation in the *cutting pitch
Shifting of the spread or block
Fabric bunching up or pushing ahead of the knife
Improper equipment
Improper cutting sequence as parts are cut
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*Angle of contact between cutting device and spread
Cutting Quality

77
PORTABLE CUTTING KNIVES

78
 Portable Cutting Knives

can be moved
Mainly two types
(i) vertical reciprocating straight knives and
(ii) round knives

79
 Manual Cutting

Sampling
Special orders
Expensive fabrics
knits

Scissors
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 Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Power system

Cutting blade

Blade guard
Handle

Sharpening

device

up-and-down
81
vertical reciprocating straight knives
 Round Knife Cutting Machine

Power system

Cutting blade

Blade guard 1475 RPM

Handle

Sharpening
device

82
one-way thrust as the circular blade makes contact with the fabric
 Portable Cutting Knives

Both types of knives have

Power system
Handle
Cutting blade
Sharpening device
Blade guard

83
 Portable Cutting Knives

Circular cutters and straight knives are pushed by

HAND through the stationary material

84
85
Cutting Department

86
Fabric Cutting

87
 Straight Knife Cutting Machine
vertical blade
reciprocates up and down
capable of both coarse and precise cutting to
a depth of about 300mm
Corners and curves can be cut accurately
All of the pieces cut from a lay are identical

88
 Straight Knife Cutting Machine
most versatile and commonly used
vertical cutting action
Blades length - 6 to 14 inches.
Spread depth depends on Blade length &
adjustable height of the blade guard

89
 Straight Knife Cutting Machine
900 angle of the narrow, thin blade to the
cutting surface ensures accuracy in cutting
sharp corners, angles, and curves
makes only lateral cuts into a spread
Cannot cut out areas from the center of
garment parts

90
Round Knife Cutting Machine

1475 RPM!!

91
 Round Knife Cutting Machine
popular, light and fast.
suitable only for cutting in straight lines or
very gradual curves, in depths of about 15cm
Larger blade cuts up to 2" of soft or bulky
material, or lower lays of harder material such
as shirts
Small blade cuts single layer
92
 Round Knife Cutting Machine
A round blade contacts the spread at an angle;
thus, the top ply is cut before the bottom ply.

93
 Straight Knife Cutting Machine
A straight blade contacts the spread at 900, all
plies are cut at the same time.

94
Basic components of portable knives

Knife blades
The base plate
The power system
Sharpening devices
Handle
Blade guard

95
STATIONARY CUTTERS

96
 Stationary Cutters

Blades or cutting devices remain in a fixed

position
Operators must move the fabric or lay up to
the machine and engage the cutting action

97
 Stationary Cutters

The two basic types of stationary cutters are

(i) band knives and
(ii) die cutters

98
BAND KNIVES

99
 Band Knives
contains a narrow, sharpened, endless
steel band
fabric layers are guided by hand against the
blade
air cushion is provided below the fabric
layers

100
 Band Knives
plies are stapled together to prevent
slippage
used for precision cutting to a depth of up
to 300mm
Corners, tight curves and pointed incisions
are cut precisely

101
 Band Knives

used to make only lateral cuts into a spread

blades are finer and narrower than reciprocating
blades
easier to manipulate tight curves and intricate
patterns
Band knives are more accurate for small blocks or
for shaving small amounts off pre-cut blocks

102
 Band Knife Cutting Machine

Band knives have

fine blades that
rotate through a slot
in the cutting table
while cutting.

103
 Band knives are used to trim pre-cut blocks of small or midsize
pieces. They would NOT be used for cutting a whole spread or
large pieces because of having to manoeuvre the block around
the blade.
104
105
106
 Servo Cutting

The bridge between computer-controlled

and manual cutting
overhead servo motor
adjustable speed
suspension system that supports the knife
perpendicular to the cutting table

107
Straight knife with servo assisted arm
support

108
 Servo Cutting

knife is mounted on a swivel arm

small base plate and narrow blade guide for
easier manoeuvring
It combines vertical cutting and band knife
cutting into one machine

109
Servo assisted cutting system

110
 Servo Cutting

enables the operator to cut deeper spreads with

greater accuracy than with a freestanding straight
knife and for a lesser investment than
computerized cutting

111
die cutting

112
 Die Cutting
Dies are pre-shaped metal outlines
Most accurate
Die-cutting operation involves
1. placement of the fabric
2. positioning the die on the fabric
3. engaging the machine to press the die
into the fabric
113
 Die Cutting

Used mainly for leather, coated and

laminated materials
Areas where the same patterns are used
over a long period, e.g. collars, pocket flaps,
and appliqués

114
 Die Cutting
Pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric
Die is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery
Tie bars – secure the stability of die

Strip steel dies Forged dies

Can’t be sharpened Can be sharpened
Cheap Expensive
Cuts less depth Cuts more depth

115
 Die Cutting
Collars, trousers pockets, bras, etc
High accuracy
Faster than knife cutting
Cutting arm supported by a single pillar

116
 Die cutting - Disadvantages

Uses more fabric

Unsatisfactory cut quality if placed closer to 3-4
mm to an edge
Cutting large areas is problematic
Successful with knitted products, single or low
ply

117
118
Hydraulic swing arm press

119
plasma cutting

120
 Plasma cutting
Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity
jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon)
Faster cutter of single plies
High engineering and cost issues
Problems – same as for laser cutting

121
water jet cutting

122
 Water jet cutting
Very high velocity, fine stream of water
High pressure jet acts as a solid tool, tears the
fibers on impact
As the jet penetrates successive plies in a
spread, the momentum decreases and cutting
ability is reduced frayed edges

123
 Water jet cutting
 wet edges, water spots, inconsistent cutting
quality
 leather, plastic, vinyl
High equipment costs

124
Position marking

125
 Placement markers
notchers
drills & thread markers

126
 notchers
notches can be cut by straight knife too but
accuracy is required
specialized notching equipment provides greater
accuracy because a guide lines up the notcher
with the cut edge
straight notch, V-notch

127
 notchers
hot notcher – heating element – blade slightly
scorches the fibers adjacent to the notch –
thermoplastic
especially loosely woven tweed

128
Hot - notcher

129
 Drills and thread markers
Drills
drill mount = motor + base plate with a hole +
spirit level
reference markers needed away from the edge of
a garment part, e.g. position of pockets, darts, etc.
a hole is drilled through the lay

130
Drill markers

131
Hot - drill

132
 Drills
normally, drill is used cold, hole remains visible
until the sewing operator comes to use it
loose weave – hot drill is used which slightly
scorches or fuse the edges of the hole
hypodermic (or dye spot) drill – leaves small
deposit of paint on each ply of fabric
ALL drill holes must eventually be concealed by
the construction of the garment
133
Ticketing & Bundling

134
 Ticketing

Tickets carry details : style no, size, ply no, bundle

no., date issued
Operations may be incorporated for payment
purposes, control of work and facilitating quality
control

135
 Bundle tickets

Order no. 6015

Bundle no. 1430
Quantity 12
Style no. 3145
Size 12
Section collar

136
Pre-ticketing

137
Ticketing

138
Ticketing

139
Bundling

140
 Bundling
Small batches of garments move from one work
station to another in a controlled way
Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
If ticketing is not done, a top ply labeling system is
done

141