BASICS OF WAVE

HYDRODYNAMICS

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 BASIC HYDRODYNAMICS LAWS

Assumptions

1. Viscosity of the fluid is zero. Shear forces are absent.

t═ µ (du/dz)

i.e. Only normal forces exist.

And Irrotational flow exists.

2. The fluid is incompressible and the density ‘ρ’ is constant

throughout the fluid.

Continuity Eqn.: Law of conservation of mass

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CONTINUITY EQUATION

Z w+(∂w/∂z) ∂z

u u+(∂u/∂x) ∂x

dx
w
x

Consider a control volume of fluid of dimension ‘dx’

and ‘dz’ as shown in 2D flow.
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Let the dimension in the other direction be unity.

Consider only 2 dimensional flow.

The mass inflow along x direction/sec = ρ.u.dz.1

The mass outflow along x direction/sec =

ρ (u+(∂u/∂x).dx)dz.1

Therefore the net mass out flow in x direction/sec,

=(outflow-inflow)

= ρ(∂u/∂x) dx.dz

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Similarly the net mass outflow in z direction,

= ρ (∂w/∂z) dx. dz

The net mass out flow from the region,

= ρ (∂u/∂x) dx.dz + ρ (∂w/∂z) dx.dz

Continuity equation requires that, this net out flow

to be zero.

Therefore ρ(∂u/∂x)dx.dz + ρ(∂w/∂z)dx.dz=0

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 Dividing by ρ.dx.dz ,we get

∂u/∂x + ∂w/∂z = 0
Which is the continuity equation for 2 dimensional flow.

Irrotational Flow

A fluid particle is said to have rotation if the particle has a

rotation about its mass centre.
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A particle is said to have zero rotation in a plane, if
average of the angular velocities along two mutually
perpendicular directions of the particle in that plane is
zero.

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 Z

∂u/∂z

X
∂w/∂x

The average of the angular velocities in two mutually

perpendicular directions =1/2(∂u/∂z-∂w/∂x)
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For irrotational flow, this must be zero.

Therefore ∂u/∂z-∂w/∂x=0 ═> Vorticity =0

∂u/∂z=∂w/∂x
The concept of Velocity Potential

Let us assume the existence of velocity potential which is

ø (x,z,t)

By definition , ∂ø/∂x= u →velocity in x-direction

∂ø/∂z= w →velocity in z-direction

Since ø is a continuous function,

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 i.e., ∂/∂z(∂ø/∂x)= ∂/∂x(∂ø/∂z)

since u= ∂ø/∂x & w=∂ø/∂z

∂u/∂z = ∂w/∂x, which is the condition for irrotational flow

This proves that if a velocity potential exists, then the

flow is irrotational. The converse is also true.

That is if the flow is irrotational then a velocity

potential always exists.
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 Laplace’s equation
Velocity potential ø (x,z,t)

And by definition ∂ø/∂x=u

∂ø/∂z=w

we have continuity equation: ∂u/∂x +∂w/∂z=0

Substituting in terms of ø,
∂2ø/ ∂x2 +∂2ø /∂z2 = 0 which is Laplace’s equation

All the basic hydrodynamic equations have gone into Laplace’s

equation.

The solution of this equation gives us the required velocity

potential function ‘ø’. 11
Bernoulli’s Equation:- (for general unsteady flow)

Assumptions:-
a.Density is constant

b.Viscosity is Zero (flow is irrotational)

½ (u2+w2) + gz + p/ρ + ∂ø/∂t = constant

↑ ↑ ↑ ↑
convective gravity pressure local inertia
inertia term term term term

½[(∂ø/∂x)2 + (∂ø/∂z)2] + gz + p/ρ + ∂ø/∂t=0

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Wave motion Problem:-
d= still water depth

z= -d defines the sea bottom

Wave length (L): Distance between any two corresponding

points on the Successive waves (L)

Wave period (T) : The time interval required for motion to re-

occur at a given fixed point.

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 L
Still Water Level

Wave ht. ‘H’

d
wave trough
sea bottom z= - d

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C- wave celerity - velocity with which the wave is propagating
C=L/T
Particle velocity in the orbit =pH/T

Boundary Conditions for wave motion problem

(1) on the sea bottom, i.e., @ z=-d

Assuming a horizontal impermeable sea bottom, there cannot

be any flow across this.

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 z

z= η (x,t)
0 x
d

sea bottom

Mathematically it can be represented as the velocity normal to

the surface is zero.
w=∂ø/∂z=o
at z = -d.

On the free surface : i.e., at z=η

(a)Dynamic boundary condition

Pressure on the free surface is zero taking atmospheric
pressure as datum. 16
½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gz + p/ρ +∂ø/∂t=0

½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη +∂ø/∂t=0
at z=η

(b)Kinematic Boundary Condition:

A particle on the free surface always remains on the free

surface.
To satisfy this condition the particle velocity = the normal
velocity of the free surface.

i.e. w= ∂ø/∂z = dη/dt

η=f(x,t)
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∂ø/∂z = dη/dt = ∂η/∂t * ∂t/∂t+ ∂η/∂x * ∂x/∂t
∂ø/∂z= ∂η/∂t + ∂η/∂x .∂x/∂t
at z=η

Basic hydrodynamic equation:

∂2ø/∂x2 + ∂2ø /∂z2 =0

at z=η

Boundary conditions:-

(1) on the sea bottom, i.e., @ z=-d

∂ø/∂z=0
at z=-d

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 (2) Free surface condition

(a) Dynamic boundary condition

½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη + ∂ø/∂t=0
at z=η
(b)Kinematic Boundary condition
∂ø/∂z = ∂η/∂t + ∂η/∂x ∂x/∂t
at z=η

Difficulties of the solution

(1)The two free surface boundary conditions are non linear
and the solutions are rather difficult.
(2)The two free surface boundary conditions have to be
applied on z= η which itself is unknown.
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 Small Amplitude Wave Theory or
Linear Wave Theory or Airy’s Theory

Assumptions :-
(1)The fluid is incompressible and the density ‘ρ’ is constant in
the body of the fluid.
(2)The viscosity of the fluid is zero. This results in irrotational
motion & also that the motion must repeat itself infinitely with
time.
(3)The amplitude of the wave ‘a= H/2’ is very small compared
to its wave length (a<<L). From this it follows that the velocity

of the fluid particle (=p H/T ) is small compared to the wave

celerity C=L/T. 20
(4)As a consequence of the above assumption product of
small quantities which are essentially the velocities can be
neglected as being small. That is terms such as (∂ø/∂x)2,
(∂ø/∂z)2, (∂η/∂x . ∂x/∂t) can be neglected as being small.

(5)The free surface boundary conditions which is to be

applied on z=η is applied on z=0. Since η is very small .

(6)Normal to wave surface almost coincides with z-direction

i.e wn= wz

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The Governing Equation of S A W T:

Basic hydrodynamic equation:-

∂2ø/∂x2 + ∂2ø/∂z2 = 0

Boundary conditions :-

(1) on z=-d , ∂ø/∂z =0

(2) Free surface condition:-

(a)Dynamic boundary condition

½[(∂ø/∂x)2+(∂ø/∂z)2] + gη +∂ø/∂t=0
z=η
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With a assumptions of SAWT, the terms (∂ø/∂x)2, (∂ø/∂z)2

are neglected and the boundary conditions which is to be

applied on z= η is now applied on z=0

so the above equation reduces to,

gη +∂ø/∂t=0
z=0

η= [-1/g] ∂ø/∂t
z=0

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(3)Kinematic Boundary Condition

∂ø/∂z = dη/∂t + ∂η/∂x * ∂x/∂t

at z=η

With the assumptions of SAWT the ∂η/∂x.∂x/∂t can

be neglected as small and the boundary condition is

applied on z=0 instead of z= η

The above equation reduces to

∂ø/∂z = ∂η/∂t
z=0
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