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    Woven Fabrics: W.I. Samarasinghe Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel

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    Ajith Satyapala
    1. Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and weft, which are perpendicular to each other. The most common weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weave. 2. In plain weave, the weft yarn alternates passing over or under each warp yarn in a repeating pattern, producing a basic, firm fabric. Twill weave forms diagonal lines by passing the weft over multiple warp yarns. 3. Satin and sateen weaves give a shiny appearance by floating one yarn type over multiple of the other, with satin having longer floats.

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    Woven Fabrics: W.I. Samarasinghe Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel

    Uploaded by

    Ajith Satyapala
    364 views32 pages
    1. Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and weft, which are perpendicular to each other. The most common weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weave. 2. In plain weave, the weft yarn alternates passing over or under each warp yarn in a repeating pattern, producing a basic, firm fabric. Twill weave forms diagonal lines by passing the weft over multiple warp yarns. 3. Satin and sateen weaves give a shiny appearance by floating one yarn type over multiple of the other, with satin having longer floats.

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    1. Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and weft, which are perpendicular to each other. The most common weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weave. 2. In plain weave, the weft yarn alternates passing over or under each warp yarn in a repeating pattern, producing a basic, firm fabric. Twill weave forms diagonal lines by passing the weft over multiple warp yarns. 3. Satin and sateen weaves give a shiny appearance by floating one yarn type over multiple of the other, with satin having longer floats.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as ppt, pdf, or txt
    364 views32 pages

    Woven Fabrics: W.I. Samarasinghe Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel

    Uploaded by

    Ajith Satyapala
    1. Woven fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and weft, which are perpendicular to each other. The most common weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin/sateen weave. 2. In plain weave, the weft yarn alternates passing over or under each warp yarn in a repeating pattern, producing a basic, firm fabric. Twill weave forms diagonal lines by passing the weft over multiple warp yarns. 3. Satin and sateen weaves give a shiny appearance by floating one yarn type over multiple of the other, with satin having longer floats.

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    Download as ppt, pdf, or txt
    of 32

    WOVEN FABRICS

    W.I. Samarasinghe Textile Technologist Sri Lanka Institute of Textile & Apparel

    Fabric Definition
    A manufactured assembly of fibres and/or

    yarns, which has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient

    mechanical strength to give the assembly

    inherent cohesion.

    Fabrics can be produced by variety of methods


    Weaving Woven fabrics

    Knitting

    Knitted Fabrics

    Bonding or Fushing

    Non-woven fabrics

    Knitting - Knitting is a process to produce a fabric which is formed intermeshing of loops by using a continuous yarn or set of yarn. Weaving - Weaving is a produce to produce a fabric by interlacing two set of flexible material at right angle to each other. Nonwoven - Non-woven is a process to produce fabric directly from webs of fibres by bonding or fusing by interlocking.

    Woven Fabric Structure


    A woven fabric is produced by interlacing two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft, which are at right angle to each other in the plane of the fabric. The warp is oriented in the direction of the length of the fabric, and the weft in that of its width. Individual warp and weft yarns are called ends and picks. Interlacing of the ends and

    picks with each other produce a coherent


    structure. The repeating pattern of interlacing is called the weave.

    Elements of woven fabric structure.


    Warp - The lengthwise set of yarn in a loom which forms the lengthwise threads of the fabric produced. End - A single warp yarn is known as an end. Weft - The thread inserted across the width of the fabric, which form the crosswise threads of a fabric. Picks- Each crosswise yarn is a pick. The width of a fabric - The perpendicular distance between the two edges of the fabric in the direction of the weft.

    Warp Count : The unit used to define the thickness or diameter of the yarn used. Weft Count : The unit used to define the thickness or diameter of the yarn used as weft.

    Warp Density : The number of warp threads per unit length. Ex: Ends per inch or Ends per cm

    Weft Density : The number of weft threads per unit length Ex: Picks per inch or Picks per cm

    Weave

    : The order in which the warp and weft threads are interlaced in the fabric.

    Type of Yarn : The composition of the fibres which form the yarn. Ex. 100% Cotton, 65/35 Polyester Cotton, 100% Rayon Finish : This includes the finish given to the fabric. Ex. (i) Grey - Fabric in loom state is without undergoing any finish. (ii) Bleached A fabric that has been bleached.

    Fabric Notation
    The parameters by which a fabric is identified or described. Warp count x Weft count Warp density x Weft density Eg. 30 Ne x 20 Ne 72 epi x 50 ppi Width, Weave, Yarn type, Finish

    63, Plain weave, 100% Cotton, Grey

    Woven Fabric Structure is depend on following parameters


    1. The weave 2. The thread densities in warp and weft 3. The coarseness or fineness of the warp and weft yarn. 4. The weariness of warp and weft

    Influences of parameters on Fabric Properties


    1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Fabric weight Fabric thickness Fabric width and length Breaking load and extension Cover and permeability

    The Weave
    The repeating pattern of interlacing is called weave. Point paper representation Representing Methods of Weave Thread diagram Cross section 1. Plain weave 2. Twill weave 3. Satin & Sateen weave

    The basic weaves :

    Warp & Weft Crimp


    Interlacing causes the warp and weft yarns to assume a wavy configuration, the plane of the weave being substantially perpendicular to that of the fabric. This waviness is called crimp. Crimp is stated quantitatively either as a fraction c or as a percentage c percent. c = Ly Lf and c percent = (Ly Lf) x 100 Lf Lf Where Ly = the uncrimped length of the yarn. Lf = its extent in the fabric The expression c = Ly Lf may be written c = Ly 1 Lf Lf from which (1 + c) = Ly/Lf (1+c) is called the crimp ratio.

    Fabric Weight Fabric weight influences materially certain fabric properties such as drape handle. It is obviously necessary to be able to calculate the weight of warp and weft yarn in a given length of cloth, both for the purpose of ordering the yarn and of costing the cloth.

    Warp & Weft Weight Calculation


    To do this following date should be available. 1.Length and width of the cloth 2. The ends and picks per inch 3. The warp and weft counts 4. The warp and weft crimp 5. Let W = the weight of the warp or weft (ib) W = Total length of yarn (yd) Yards/lb of yarn

    Cover Factor, k

    The thread

    ratio

    yarn spacing

    diameter; (d/p)

    expresses
    closeness uniformly weft in

    the
    of a spaced, a woven certain

    relative
    set of parallel fabric. fabric

    threads, such as the warp or Relative closeness influences


    P

    materially

    properties such as firmness,

    handle and drape,

    Cover Factor, k

    contd.

    No. of threads/inch n the reciprocal of the threads per inch, p = 1/n

    d= 1 (in) 28N

    Peirces formula for yarn diameters. N is cotton count (it is necessary to convert the yarn number to the corresponding cotton counts before using this equation.)

    Cover Factor, k

    contd.

    The ratio d/p also express the fraction of the area of the cloth covered by the warp or weft yarns. We may therefore call it the fractional cover is, fractional cover = d/p

    substituting Peirces estimate of yarn diameter d = 1 28 N d = 1 p 28 N x 1/p d = n p 28 N

    Cover Factor, k

    contd.

    d/p has value 1.0 when the yarns are just touching.

    K = 28 K = 14 K=7

    Peirce multiplied the equation by 28 to eliminate the numerical constant 28 and defined the result as the Cover Factor k.

    Cover Factor, k

    contd.

    Cover Factor k = n/N because we have multiplied by 28, cover factor as defined in equation has a value of 28 when yarn are just touching.

    It is usual to calculate separate cover factors for the warp and weft. The sum of the warp and weft cover factors is known as the cloth cover factor Kc.

    Plain Weave
    In this simplest weave, the weft pass over one warp yarn and under the next alternating in this manner once across the cloth. The second time across, the weft pass over the warp yarn it went under, and under the warp it went over on the previous row. The third time across is a repetition of the first.

    Plain Weave contd.


    WARP 2 WARP 3 WARP 4 WARP 1

    PICK 4 PICK 3 PICK 2 PICK 1

    Plain Weave contd.


    Since plain weave has the maximum possible frequency of interlacing. It tends to be firm and resist slipping. The weaving process is comparatively inexpensive because the design is so simple. Plain weave cloth can be cleaned easily, and when firm and closely woven they wear well.

    Plain, weave fabrics are produced generally for the following end used.
    Shirtings, Dress fabrics, Sheetings, Canvas, Handkerchief etc.

    Twill Weave
    WARP 2 WARP 3 WARP 4 WARP 1

    In this weave weft yarn are interlaced with warp yarn in such a way as to form diagonal lines across the fabric. Following diagram illustrates a simple twill weave.

    WARP 6

    WARP 5

    PICK 5

    PICK 4
    PICK 3 PICK 2 PICK 1

    2/2 TWILL WEAVE

    Twill Weave

    contd.

    The weft yarn passes over to and under two warp yarns, alternating across the cloth. The second weft or pick passes over two and under two warp yarns. But it laps back on the ground previous row, thus forming a stair pattern.
    This type of twills are called even or balanced twills.

    Twill Weave

    contd.

    In an unbalanced or uneven twill either the warp or the weft floats predominate. Twill is the most durable of all weaves. It has more number of regular floats than any other weave. Therefore it makes fabric closer in texture, heavier and stronger than plain weave. This is why twills are more suitable for mens clothing fabrics.

    Twill Weave

    contd.

    Also it is possible to produce more fancy designs in twills than in plain weaves. Twill weaves do not show dirt so quickly as plain weave, but once they are dirty they are harder to clean. Cloth made in twill weaves may be classified as follows. Denim Mens cloth (suitings) Table cloth Flannel etc.

    Satin and Sateens Why do satins have shining effect? Any consumer may have asked this question. The answer is that the type of cloth construction called the satin weave gives great shining effect to a fabric and reflects the light better than dull-finished fabrics in plain or twill weaves do.

    Satin and Sateens Contd.

    The consumer should notice that whenever they feel a silk, polyester or rayon dress stain, the hand slips more easily length wise than cross wise of the fabric. The reason is that more warps than weft yarns are exposed on this side. If the fabric is turned over, more wefts than warps are visible.

    Satin and Sateens Contd. Following diagram shows two-diagrams of SATIN and SATEEN weaves.
    1 2

    5 4 3 2

    5 4

    3
    2 1

    SATIN WEAVE

    SATEEN WEAVE

    Satin
    Formerly, cotton warp satin was often used for linings, slippers and furnishing. Nowadays a very large proportion of satin is made from viscose, cellulose acetate and nylon.

    The materials that are made in the satin weave include. Bridal satin Slipper satin Dress satin Coat linings etc.

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