by

a v ramanathan

Published by A V Ramanathan [email protected] 1970

Fort Cochin (English) By A V Ramanathan Cochin 682 002 First Impression: 1970

Copyright: By the author

Publishers: Kerala Mail Publications Lalan Road, Cochin- 682 002 PREFACE

This is a modest publication on Fort Cochin. As I wrote an article in the Viswa Vijnana Kosh, the Malayalam encyclopedia, published by the National Book Stall, Kottayam on Fort Cochin, I thought the little known facts about the town can be published in a book-let form.

Foreign occupations have left their indelible mark on the face of Fort Cochin. Students of history and tourists coming to Cochin might not miss the St Francis Church, the oldest church in India which has an old automic clock which still keeps accurate time. This Church was the place where Vasco-da-Gama was buried. Santa Cruz which has rare murals, the commandants house built by the Dutch, the Dutch cemetery, the lofty light house, Chinese fishing nets, and old architecture of Portuguese/Dutch, etc. A V Ramanathan Kochi

Fort Cochin its chequered history

is a well known sea faring post. From ancient historical times, Kerala had far flung trade with some of the ancient markets of the world. Muziris (present Kodungallur) was one of the greatest ports of the Orient, well known to sea voyagers. There was an ecological change which made the old Ports fade while the new ones took their place. The flood of the Periyar in 1341 AD resulted in the splitting of the river into two tributaries at Thottummukham. That silted up the natural harbour at the mouth of the Periyar and resulted in the creation of a new harbour at Cochin. This opening of the sea thus giving direct access to the interior made experts realize that the possibility of opening this vast backwater to the sea which would become the most sheltered form in the east and is of such a size that it could accommodate the whole of the navies of the world. However, after a lapse of 579 years, a British engineer by name Sir Robert Bristow (1888-1966), after a ten-year strenuous crusade (in 1929}, created the modern Cochin Port. It was he, by his intricate knowledge of harbour Engineering overcame the difficulties by first dredging of a channel 12,000 ft long in the open sea through a formidable bar of heavy sand which has been pounded by successive monsoons into a rock like formation; and second, the protection of the low-lying spits of randy beach which form the natural break-waters to the harbour and upon which the Sea had

Kerala

been slowly encroaching for many years. Bristow succeeded in stopping the long and continued erosion on the fore-shores. He stopped the erosion in Vypeen Island which formed a sort of wall protecting the mainland and the backwater area. He succeeded in constructing stone groyne parallel to the foreshore. The channel was maintained in navigable condition always. This was what he had itched in his book, Cochin Saga: A gigantic struggle was being fought out by natural forces from the east, that was the mainland, came the silt bearing stream; down from North came the flood arm or overflow of the Periyar; up from the South came the discharge from the vast reservoir of Vembanad region. From the Arabian Sea came the long ground-swell of the monsoon, and the wind waves from the south-west and north-west, all struggling, pushing, jostling with each other; slowly masses of land were deposited, stayed awhile, and were pushed aside, streams widened and deepened. A possible temporary opening at Alleppey closed itself. A possible opening at Andikadavu opened and closed again. Force began to unite and concentrate at Cochin, until probably with a combination of tides and heavy rains with a long push and a strong push, out to the Sea went the famous Cochin Bar. June 1341- 650 years old. Time honoured Cranganore, which had done meritorious service as an emporium of foreign trade for centuries- the silt of flood of 1341, blocked Cranganore harbour permanently. According to mythology, Kerala is said to have been created out of the blue by Parasurama, who threw his all powerful axe into the Sea at Gokarna, after the land of Kerala submerged into waters after Mahabali was pushed into the Padala by Vamana, one of the ten incarnations of Vishnu. But the geological fact that parts of Kerala were once upon a time, sea, is collaborated by evidences based on the study of the littoral sediments. The beautiful beaches of Fort Kochin are old fable. From Chellanam to FortKochi, there is neither coast nor a beach line. According to elders, Fort Kochi coastline was 80 Kms long. Some of these elders vouch that they have traveled by foot across the sands of the beach from Fort Kochi to Challanam in the yester years. In the Fort Kochibeach, Mahatma Gandhi had addressed thousands of people in 1925. Along the water edge of Fort Cochin, on the narrow pass-way to the harbour, are a line of Chinese fishing nets, the first virtual symbol of ancient trade and age old shared influences. Today, they are in deep water. Near Saudi Fort Kochin, there were around dozen houses which stood on the shores, at least quarter mile into the mainland. Today, most the of the houses are in Water, even though there are many who pay Property tax for houses which have been devoured by the Sea. According to people of the area,

the Sea was slowly encroaching on the beach sands over a long period of time. No body has bothered to evaluate the erosion, and no body worries about any steps to prevent sea erosion. Every time, due to Sea erosion, valuable land has been lost. Even a church, Mannasheri Church, has been displaced so many times, yet the danger lurks.

A ship entering Cochin harbour The people of the area demand that instead of putting granite stones on the beaches to prevent sea erosion, it would be better to build gronium (or strong groyne like that was done by Bristow) to remove seepage, sea erosion, and breaches in the barricades to prevent gushing water which would inundate the lands situated adjoining the Sea coast. They attribute this soil erosion which has become ferocious for the last two decades, due to reclamation of land at Vallarpadam, Bolghatty, and across the Marine drive. Unscientific dredging has been a culprit, as the withdrawal of bar of heavy sand that is pulled by the sea currents to deepen the depth of the channel, has been responsible for natures fury. Cochin Port Trust is said to have conducted seismic studies, and the report has found nothing wrong. National Institute of Oceanography is conducting another study. But reclamation of land from backwaters or Sea would cause Sea erosion. There are examples to that effect.

A ferry boat plies in the backwaters There have been various suggestions to prevent sea erosion. The most effective method is to construct a wall of Rock Armour across the coast.

However, this method is very expensive and difficult to place. It consists of a wall of large quarried rocks that stretch across a coastline. A more affordable method is to place a series of Groynes across a beach to prevent Longshore Drift, ensuring that the sand on a beach does not get swept away to a single side of a beach. These Groynes resemble fences that run down a beach to the sea. Groynes are structures that prevent erosion by limiting water flow and sediment movement. Theyre usually built perpendicular to the shore, and may or not be submerged. Another way is similar to the Rock Armour, but is however constructed of wood. These is much cheaper, but much less reliant and is notorious for being destroyed in large storms. Coastal erosion is a huge problem. You might be asking yourself why you should be worried about the condition of some beach, but in truth it does have an impact on the economy that you might not have even though of. Did you know that people live along coastlines mostly for the beaches? With the threat of coastal erosion, many people may end up moving elsewhere, which will cause a downfall of that particular area. Thats why it is so important to make sure coastal erosion is stopped in its tracks. Breakers can be placed in the water at certain points to slow down the waves. Naturally this isnt going to stop the erosion, but it will slow it down. The one problem with this method is that you will absolutely need to obtain a permit from the state before you begin. If you do not, then you may end up with some serious legal trouble on your hands. A living shoreline is always going to help. Make sure you plant plenty of seaweed and create an environment that sea creatures will be attracted to. More life means less chance of erosion, which is exactly what youre going for. A new technique, living shorelines are coasts in which shellfish have been planted. The shells attract aquatic life, which prevents erosion naturally. Nature itself is a solution to mend eroded coastlines. Planting tones of oyster shells to form angular breakwater, will draw aquatic life drawn to shells can create Living shoreline preventing coastal erosion. Young fish that move into it. Oyster shells placed in brackish waters with good tide flow will become rapidly colonized by a multitude of marine critters, including oysters, algae, worms, barnacles, crabs, small minnows and fish. Living shorelines are the best way to stop sea erosion.

Change in mindset is slow to come. However, living shorelines generally dont work in deep sea water where you have significant drop right at the shoreline. Beach nourishment is a great option for stopping erosion. The best thing you can do is transplant sand from other areas. In some cases you will be able to purchase sand in bulk, which is a great way to keep your beach looking nice and healthy. Wind breaks are always a good idea. These can be small fences that you set back from the beach a little bit. More than likely youve seen these somewhere before, probably at one of the more popular beaches. Sea walls, which run parallel to the coast, are one of the most common responses to coastal erosion. They stabilize the beach, but they shift the problem to an adjacent part of the coast. Planting vegetation such as trees defends the coastline. An advantage to this technique is that trees regenerate themselves. Offshore breakwaters are submerged structures that parallel the shore. They absorb wave energy and serve as artificial reefs for marine life. These are rock formations built to protect dunes. Theyre inexpensive and they last up to five years. The apathy of authorities invites nothing but condemnation. The Corporation of Cochin cannot sit unconcerned, for it is responsible for providing civic amenities as mandated. The Cochin Port Trust cannot wash off its hands saying its Reports had given a clean chit. Any Report submitted which endangers environment is subject to public scrutiny, and an income making body like CPT cannot shirk responsibility. The GCDA which reclaimed the land from the backwaters is liable to shoulder the cost, as it got millions of Rupees by selling the lands. Is it not liable to pay for the natures fury caused by its unscientific leveling of land or reclaiming land from the Sea? The Ministry of Environment & Forests, Govt of India, must appoint an Independent Consultant to assess the damage to ecology, and fix responsibility on bodies who were responsible for causing this ecological injury and foot the bill for repairing the gaps so that sea erosion can be arrested partially, if not wholly. Fort Kochi breathes the life of past history. It has been

declared as a heritage zone. We always lock the stable after the horse is stolen like Bhopal. But at Fort Kochi, better late than never. Fort Kochi, stand as a Vestige and a standing testimony of 500 long years of rule by the foreign imperial European powers. Portuguese, in the last decade of the 15th century, with Vasco-da-Gama as the head at navigation came and established their rule, the first foreign power to do so after Renaissance in Europe. Portuguese established their reign and ruled for almost 163 years between 1500-1663. The Dutch replaced them and followed ruling Fort Kochi for 132 years between 1663 AD and 1775. Fort Kochi came under the administration of the Union Jack for 152 years since 1795 AD. Perhaps, in the saga of Indian History, successive foreign powers, ruled over Fort Kochi. For over 500 years, Fort Kochi was under foreign domination.

A well preserved road with Portuguese style houses The people of this town are cosmopolitan. They have been subjected to mixed marriages, well over 500 years, inter cultural, and inter religious marriages. There has been intermingling of races. This town was a miniature English county, like a minor Surrey. The present day people have of this town had various surnames, showing that they are consag uineous of Portuguese, Dutch, English, forefathers. The houses were in various styles, and had a western style. Parade Maidan, resembles a mini county ground. With all-round grass, trees in full bloom sporting different colours with the historical St Francis Church built somewhere in the 1500 AD giving a historical prespective standing on one corner of the ground, tells a story of the part played by it as a European settlement. It is surrounded on three sides by Muncipal Roads. The Flame of the Forest, and a tree planted on one corner of the ground by a former Grid lays Bank employee, still stands as a testimony to the past.

In 1850, British mercantile companies took root in British Kochi. Perierce Leslie Co, Aspinwall, Brunton, William Goodacre, Volkart Bros (swiss), Godwin woodraff, put up their offices along the harbour mouth of Cochin. There was large number of Europeans, who were residents. The Sub Collector was an Englishman who resided in Bastion Bunglow. Bunglow east of the Parade Ground, has a historical past. It has a plate, VOC 1940. It was built by the Portuguese and Ditch East India Co officers occupied it for 133 years. F A Cox of Bruntons lived here, and he set up an Engineering Company which specialized in casting and Engineering. My father, who was an Engineer, was trained by him. The house is a monument of historical importance. FS Davies, Englishman, principal of Maharajas College, stayed here. This Bunglow is in the possession of Mathewson Bosanquet, a French firm, which is fully indianised. The company too, has shifted to W/Island, but its Chief Executive lives here. Vasco-da-Gama, stayed along with the Portuguese Governor, and he died here in 1524 AD. His body was interned at Fort Kochi St Francis Church, which has a cenotaph showing that Vasco-da-Gama was buried here. Later, his body was exhumed and taken to Lisbon, where it was buried with honours.

St Francis Church Francisco Albuquerque fought the famous Battle of Vaipin on 2 Sept 1503. The Portuguese poet Cameons wrote his Lusiad extolling the exploits of the valiant Paecheo, the hero of the Naval War. Vaipin was formed only in 1341, and this confirms that the war was actually fought in 1503, for Cochin had become a Port since then. Chinese had trade relations with this part from time in memorial. The Chinese fishing nets, which dot the sea coast and Cochin channel, attest the fact. When viewed from Vas-co-da-Gama promenade that is parallel to the beach is the best point to watch the Chinese fish nets in action.

Chinese fishing nets

St Francis Xavier is said to have visited Cochin in 1557. Santa Cruz was raised to the status of a Cathedral by a bull issued by Pope Pius IV. This was the first Roman Catholic Cathedral in India. D Georgins Themudo was the first Bishop of Cochin. The Santa Cruz contains some paintings on its ceilings. Its main portion was completed by Rev Brother Moshini (Italian) who died in Cochin before the completion of his job. This was finished by Mr D Gama, a Mangalorean, in 1914. It was Br Moshini, who had painted the Chapel attached to St Aloysius College at Mangalore. Ralph Fitch, an English traveler visited Cochin in 1585. The Dutch cemetery was built in 1721 and is a protected Monument. The British, with the permission of the Maharaja of Cochin set up a trading station at Cochin. In 1776, Hyder Alis Sirdar Khan took Trichur and advanced towards Cochin. The Raja concluded treaty with Hyder. His son,

Tippu declared a war and proceded to Cochin. The Maharaja sought British help, and Major Petre, dominated the war and took Cochin. As price of the war, British Cochin remained with the British since 1795 to 14 August 1947, and was administered by the Governor of Madras. Englishmen called it a mini England, Dutch a Homely Holland, and Portuguese, little Lisbon.

Fort Cochin Municipality came into being in the Year 1866, and is one of the oldest municipalities in India. Mr J H Aspinwall, who had a pie in the development of Fort Cochin, and Cochin as one of the finest natural harbour of India, was its first Chairman in 1866. Messrs S Koder, a Jew, K B Jacob, A F C Campbell, Mrs L Bernard, K J Hurshell, was some of the Chairmen of this historic municipality. The first minute of the Municipality is still preserved. Fort Cochin municipality celebrated its centenarary in Dec 1966, and there were festivities between 4-12 Dec 1966. There were colourful floats which were part of the celebration procession- the first float ship which depicted the landing of the Jews. S Koder and family, members dressed in Jewish costumes, and the second of the arrival of Arabs led by K A Mamoo, crowded with Arabs in their national apparel, the third the full Portuguese ship Sao Paulo, with 24 sailors and guns, carrying Vasco-da-Gama and crew, fourth a Dutch ship. The landings of a British Ship were a novelty. Maharattas, Kokanis, and various other nationalities and communities dressed in their veritable best costumes, added beauty and imparted a historic touch to the celebration. There were series of amphibian tableaus. The mellifluous melodious music of the local boy K J Yesudas went rave as heavy rains lashed. It was a historic occasion with a historical aroma. Mr K J Hershel presided. The people of this ancient town hosted a reception to K J Yesudas which was attended by a record crowd. The Episcopal Consecretion of

Dr Joseph Kureethara, on Dec 21, 1975 was attended by Honble Shri A C George, a minister in India Gandhis cabinet. Mr Aspinwall was the Chairman of Harbour Development Committee, and President of the Cochin Chamber of Commerce. The historical efforts that helped Madras Presidency to give permission for Cochin port are available at Cochin Chamber archives in the form of letters; Sir Robert Bristow was appointed as Harbour Engineer, mainly due to the efforts of the Cochin Chamber of Commerce, which has completed more than 150 years of useful service to the mercantile community. I was the Asst Secretary of this Chamber in my younger days, and I had the chance to view the authentic original documents. A commemorative tablet for John Hutchinson Aspinwall born 23 Oct 1834 and died 11 September 1884 can be seen at St Francis Church. Aspinwall Company became a separate entity on 30 June 1867, after Aspinwall perierce Leslie which was the original company split, and the new company was looked after by Mr J H Aspinwall. Coconut Oil, copra, coir yarn, coffee, tea, spices, pepper, rubber, etc were traded by the Company. In 1971, His Highness Maharaja of Trvancore took a controlling stake in the Company. Mr E B Unni was its Chief Executive Officer for a long time, and it was he who inducted me to the Cochin Chamber. Mr Unnis contribution to new Keralas industrial development is immeasurable. When the British owners of the European companies left India for good, they placed the company under Indian management in 1960, and most of the erstwhile European Companies left Fort Cochin to Wellington Island. In 1896, Mark Twain, American novelist, visited Fort Kochi.Ibn Batuta (1342-47), Marco Polo, and others had visited Fort Cochin at one time or the other. MaHein Mahuman, a Chinese Muslim and Niclo Conti, Italian traveler visited Fort Cochin in the early 15th century. They have left behind interesting accounts. Cochin China is now called South Vietnam, named a new harbour, Co-chin, chin is Chinese.

A barge ferrying Lorries, cars and passengers During Van Rheed, Dutch Governors tenure, a 12 volume Meteria Medica was compiled by Fr Mathews, Carmilites priest and three Ayurvedic Physicians Ranga Bhatt, Vinayak Pandit, Appu Bhatt and Itty Achan from Shertallai. On each page, Fr Mathews would draw a sketch of a medical herb which the Physicians dwelt on the healing and curative effects of the Plant in Malayalam. Manuel Carneiro, a Topas of Cochin translated the same into Portuguese. The plants, commercial crops, seeds of cashew, rubber, tobacco, coffee, tea, which had been sprouting to this day minting gold and bringing billions of dollars were brought by the Portuguese navigators and planted by them in the Kerala soil, 500 years ago! Malayattur Ramakrishnan, the famous Malayalam novelist, was Revenue Divisional officer of Fort Cochin during the late sixties. T D Temple, the diety of Vijayanagaram, was brought to Cochin by the Godwa Saraswat Brahmins who had to flee prosecution during the Portuguese rule, was consecrated at Cheralai, where the community is prospering. It is one of the great temples visited by a lot of Hindus.

T D Temple at Cherlai There was a European Club which was open only to the Europeans and their family. Viceroys and Governors and other dignitaries were invited for lunch and for social get-togethers. Santa Cruz School, St Marys Convent girls High School, St John De Brittos, and other Schools following CBSC syllabus have been set up in Fort Cochin. On the eastern wing of the Santa Cruz maiden, there was a big temple ground, it was averred by old Fort Cochinites. Apart from K J Yesudas, who is credited to be the singer par excellence who hailed from Kunnumpuram, T K Pareekutty, businessman and famous cinema producers, Manavalan Joseph, cine artist, S.Koder, who ran the Cochin Electric Co, L G Pai, the first Dy Mayor of the Cochin Corporation, Dr C S K Nair, the cine artiste Rani Chandra who had a fatal death in an aircraft accident, P J Antony, national award winner, Cherian of Sea Foods Association, Augustine Joseph, Yesudass father and a drama actor, K J Hurshell, MLA, Chairman, Fort Cochin Munipality, and a lot of others were from Fort Cochin. During the First World War, the famous German warship, Emden appeared before Cochin on its voyage of destruction after shelling the High Court building on the Madras shore. Such was the terror the ship caused, that people of the state of Kerala use the word Emden whenever they refer to something colossal or awesome. The lovely sea side city is flanked by the Western Ghats (east) and the Arabian Sea (West). Its proximity to the Equator, the sea and the mountains provide a rich experience of a moderate equatorial climate.

Fort Cochin has been placed as one of the fifty greatest places for visit by the National Geographical Travellers. <<<<<<<-o-o-o-o->>>>> (The End)