TRAINING REPORT on Textile Wet Processing

PREPARED BY: SOULAT SIDDIQUI

Preface
In this training report we focused on the wet processing unit of the textile industry. We applied both natural & synthetic dyes on cotton as well as on the Nylon fabric. During training we practically work on the instruments like IR dyeing machine & dyeing bath for nylon & cotton. Some other instruments we used like crock meter, perspirometer & ci3000+xenon weather-Ometer for color fastness tests & color matching cabinet for determining the change of color as well as staining on multifiber. During training in the PCSIR we performed some color fastness tests like color fastness to rubbing(Iso-105-x12),color fastness to perspiration(Iso-105-EO5), color fastness to washing(Iso-105-CO1-CO6),color fastness to dry cleaning(Iso105-DO1) & color fastness to light(Iso-105-BO2).

Acknowledgement
We would like to thank Madam Munazza Sohail, who is a scientific officer in the Textile Center of ACRC in the Pakistan Council of Scientific & Industrial Research. She delierved us the best of her knowledge in the area specified & provided us an instrumental knowledge and experimental work as well. All the knowledge shared by her twill help us to pursue our future carrier. We also thankful to Madam Naushaba Rafiq, she is a lecturer in the Department of Chemistry University Of Karachi who recommended us for a training program in the Pakistan Council of Scientific & Industrial Research.

GROUP MEMBERS
We performed this trainee work in a group, which consists of six members.

Soulat Siddiqui Mohammad Farhan Jamil Zille Abbas Saad Manzar

 Farrukh Ali Khan

Introduction of Textile Fiber:

Textile fiber is a material mainly made from natural or synthetic sources. This material will be converts into the making of textile yarns and fabrics; woven, knitted, nonwoven, and carpets. It may be in a form of a pliable hair like strand or as the smallest visible unit of textile production.

Classification of Textile Fiber:

Since from the past, there are many types of textile fiber that have been used or developed in textile production such as cloth, rope, household and etc. In textile industry, fiber can be classified into two different types based on their sources which are Natural fiber and Synthetic fiber or well-known as Man-made fiber.

Natural fiber:
It is a fiber made from a material originated from natural sources. There are three main sources that can be obtained to produce this kind of fiber [Cellulosic fiber (origin from plant), Protein fiber (origin from animal) and also Mineral fiber]. This kind of fiber could only produce a staple yarn (short fibers) in terms length which is not too long compare with Synthetic fiber. The dimensional structure of Natural fiber would be in hairiness surface because of their origin. Each kind of them has their own characteristic and end-use demands. Cellulosic fiber could be obtained and categorized into three main types, Seed, Bast/Stem, and Leaf.

Protein fiber could be obtained from three categories, Hair, Wool, and Filament.

Unlike the other two sources, Mineral fiber is obtainable from varieties of rock source which is also known as asbestos fiber. It is a fibrous form of silicate made of magnesium and calcium. However, because of the risk of health problem may occur the production of asbestos in textile industry have been decline.

Synthetic Fiber:
The term Synthetic fiber refers to materials that is not originated in natural sources but are developed by human by using chemical and mechanical process. Thus, Synthetic fiber is wellknown as the Man-made fiber. Unlike Natural fiber, the properties of this fiber can be determined or controlled early before the production occurs. Unlike natural, Synthetic fiber is produce in a filament yarn or filament staple yarn base on the end-use. The dimensional appearance can be varies according to the demands usage and in fact, it can be as same-like appearance and properties as the Natural fiber. [4] There are two base types of man-made that have been widely used by the textile industry, Natural Polymer base and Synthetic base. Synthetic base refers to a fiber that has been made totally by the man-made process by using chemical substance as the sources. The properties of it will be determined totally at the initial for their demands by the manufacturer.

Natural Polymer or also known as Regenerated fiber is differently from Synthetic base. It is manufactured fiber that is derived from natural cellulosic sources such as wood pulp or cotton linters. The composition of these cellulosic will be treated or alters with polymerized technique to regenerate into a new form of fiber.

Nylon:
Nylon was the first truly synthetic fiber to be commercialized (1939). Nylon was developed in the 1930s by scientists at Du Pont, headed by an American chemist Wallace Hume Caruthers (1896-1937). It is a polyamide fiber, derived from a diamine and a dicarboxylic acid, because a variety of diamines and dicarboxylic acids can be produced, there are a very large number of polyamide materials available to produce nylon fibers. The two most common versions are nylon 66 (polyhexamethylene diamide) and nylon 6 (Polycaprolactam, a cyclic nylon intermediate). Raw materials for these are variable and sources used commercially are benzene (from coke production or oil refining), furfural (from oat hulls or corn cobs) or 1,4-butadiene (from oil refining). The chemical reactions are as follows.

PROPERTIES OF NYLON 66:

Tenacity-elongation at break ranges from 8.8g/d-18% to 4.3 g/d-45%. Its tensile strength is higher than that of wool, silk, rayon, or cotton 100% elastic under 8% of extension

Specific gravity of 1.14 Melting point of 263oC Extremely chemically stable No mildew or bacterial effects 4 - 4.5% of moisture regain Degraded by light as natural fibers Permanent set by heat and steam Abrasion resistant Lustrous- Nylon fibers have the luster of silk Easy to wash Can be pre colored or dyed in wide range of colors; dyes are applied to the molten mass of nylon or to the yarn or finished fabric Resilient Filament yarn provides smooth, soft, long lasting fabrics Spun yarn lend fabrics light weight and warmth

PROPERTIES OF NYLON 6:
The main difference between nylon 6 and nylon 6, 6 is nylon 6 has a much lower melting point than nylon 66. This is a serious disadvantage, as garments made from it must be ironed with considerable care.

Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a bowl, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal.

The fiber most often is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable. The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated from 5000 BC have been excavated in Mexico and Pakistan. Although cultivated since antiquity, it was the invention of the cotton gin that so lowered the cost of production that led to its widespread use, and it is the most widely used natural fiber cloth in clothing today.

Properties of Cotton Fabric:

Cotton fabric is one of the world's oldest known fabrics, dating back to ancient Egypt and prehistoric Mexico. Its mass-production began in the 1700s with the invention of the cotton gin. Cotton continues to be the most used fiber in the world and the most popular fabric for clothing in the United States. It is known for its softness, shrinkage, versatility and lightness.

Versatility
Cotton fibers can be dyed any color, and are known for retaining color well. Cotton is also versatile and can be woven into cloth for several purposes. The fibers are made into fabric three different ways. A plain weave will produce simple, everyday fabrics. Such as broad cloth. And midweight fabrics. Such as chambray and gingham. Twill weaves make thick cloths like denim and khaki. A satin weave, which is not as popular, is used for other fabrics, such as sateen, which is considered dressier.

Wrinkling
Most cotton fabrics wrinkle very easily. Cotton clothing must be ironed regularly to keep up its appearance. Many cotton clothing items are treated with a finish that helps the fabric resist

wrinkling. If cotton is exposed to sunlight for extended periods of time, it can weaken, according to the Sewing and Craft Alliance sewing guide.

Absorbency
Cotton absorbs liquid well, in a large capacity. Cotton fabric can absorb up to 27 times its weight in water, according to the Sewing and Craft Alliance sewing guide. This makes cotton clothing comfortable, because it absorbs sweat. It also explains why cotton is used for towels and washcloths.

Shrinkage
Cotton fabrics will shrink the first time they are washed. Some cotton clothes come pre-shrunk so shoppers will not have to worry about them getting smaller after the first wash. When sewing with cotton, the Sewing and Craft alliance recommends washing the fabric first, so that the finished product isn't damaged after washing.

Breathability
Cotton fabric allows air to flow through freely. The fabric absorbs sweat and releases it on its surface. This is often described as the fabric "breathing," and is considered an asset in clothing, particularly in warm climates.

Textile industry:
The textile industry is primarily concerned with the production of yarn, and cloth and the subsequent design or manufacture of clothing and their distribution. The raw material may be natural or synthetic using products of the chemical industry. Textile industry consists of two processing units Wet processing unit Dry processing unit

Wet processing

Textile wet processing is the process that use in any finishing treatment. Where, this process is applied on textile in form of liquid with involves some for chemical action on the textile. Examples: bleaching, printing, dyeing and printing.

Grey Cloth Stitching and Sewing Shearing and Seropping Brushing Singeing Desizing Scouring Bleaching Washing Drying

Mercerizing Washing/Scouring Drying | Printing | Finishing | Delivery

Pretreatment modes:
Exhaust method Continuous method

Pretreatment:
Pretreatment means any treatment, which is done before actual (dyeing and printing) process. Natural fibers and synthetic fibers contain primary impurities that are contained naturally, and secondary impurities that are added during spinning, knitting and weaving processes. Textile pretreatment is the series of cleaning operations. All impurities which cause adverse effect during dyeing and printing is removed in pretreatment process. Pretreatment processes include desizing, scouring, and bleaching which make subsequent dyeing and softening processes easy. Uneven desizing, scouring, and bleaching in the pretreatment processes might cause drastic

deterioration in the qualities of processed products, such as uneven dyeing and decrease in fastness.

Objective of Pretreatment:
To convert fabric from hydrophobic to hydrophilic state. To remove dust, dirt etc from the fabric. To achieve the degree of desire whiteness

Steps in Pretreatment Process of cotton and natural fibers:

Major steps involved in textile pretreatment are, shearing Singeing Sizing &Desizing Scouring

Mercerization Bleaching. Setting Optical brightness

Singeing:
Also called gassing, Singeing is a part of pretreatment process of fabric and usually a first step after weaving. Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by burning off projecting fibers, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is accomplished by passing the fiber or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.

Sizing:

Before threads can be woven into fabric, they must be "sized," a process that adds a strengthening and smoothing coating to the thread. Sizing of the warp yarn is essential to reduce breakage of the yarn.

Desizing:
The purpose of a desizing process is to remove sizes that have been attached to warp Yarns during a weaving process. Prior to the desizing process, therefore, the size analysis should be performed in order to set desizing conditions suitable for the sizes.

Scouring:
Natural fibers contain oils, fats, waxes, minerals, leafy matter and motes as impurities that interfere with dyeing and finishing. Synthetic fibers contain producer spin finishes, coning oils and/or knitting oils, Mill grease used to lubricate processing equipment, mill dirt, temporary fabric markings and the like may contaminate fabrics as they are being produced. The process of removing these impurities is called Scouring.

Bleaching:
Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter from the substrate. The source of natural color is organic compounds with conjugated double bonds , by doing chemical bleaching the discoloration takes place by the breaking the chromospheres , most likely destroying the one or more double bonds with in this conjugated system. The material appears whiter after the bleaching.

Mercerizing:
The term applied to a process, discovered in 1844 by John Mercer, a Lancashire calico printer, which consists in treating cotton (and to a limited extent other plant fibers) with strong caustic soda or certain other reagents, whereby morphological and chemical changes are brought about in the fiber. Thus, if a piece of bleached calico be immersed in caustic soda of 50 Tw. strength (sp. gr. 1.25), it rapidly changes in appearance, becoming stiff and translucent, but when taken out and well washed in running water it loses these properties and apparently reverts to its original condition.

Optical brightness:

The chemicals, which are used for optical brightness, are called optical brighteners. They are stilbene derivatives. These chemical converts' ultra violet radiations into visible region, therefore reflection of light increase and fabric seem to be brighter.

Dye:
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber. Both dyes and pigments appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light more than others. In contrast with a dye, a pigment generally is insoluble, and has no affinity for the substrate.

Types of dyes:
Acid dyes Basic dyes

Vat dyes Reactive dyes Disperse dyes Azoic dyes Sulfur dyes

Direct dyes

Acid dye:
An acid dye is a dye, chemically a sodium (less oftenammonium) salt of a sulfuric, carboxylic or phenol organic acid. Acid dye is soluble in water and possesses affinity for amphoteric fibers while lacking direct dyes' affinity for cellulose fibers. When dyeing, ionic bonding with fiber cationic sites accounts for fixation of colored anions in the dyed material. Acids are added to dyeing baths to increase the number of protonated amino-groups in fibers.

Properties:
The main properties of acid dyes are, since these are sold as a sodium salt, therefore these form a large anion in the aqueous medium. These dyes are anionic in nature These dyes are suitable for wool, silk, polyamide and modified acrylics. These are applied from a strongly acidic to neutral pH bath These dyes have no affinity for cotton celluloses , hence not suitable for cellulosic These dyes combine with the fiber by hydrogen bonds, Vander Waals forces or through ionic linkages.

Uses: Fibers:
In the laboratory, home, or art studio, the acid used in the dye-bath is often vinegar (acetic acid) or citric acid. The uptake rate of the dye is controlled with the use of sodium chloride. In textiles, acid dyes are effective on protein fibers, i.e. animal hair fibers like wool, alpaca and mohair. They are also effective on silk. They are effective in dyeing the synthetic fiber nylon, but of minimal interest in dyeing any other synthetic fibers.

Medical:
In staining during microscopic examination for diagnosis or research, acid dyes are used to color basic tissue proteins. In contrast, basic dyes are used to stain cell nuclei and some other acidic components of tissues.

Basic dye:

Basic dyes are water-soluble cationic dyes that are mainly applied to acrylic fibers, but find some use for wool and silk. Usually acetic acid is added to the dye bath to help the uptake of the dye onto the fiber. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of paper.

Properties:
The ionic nature of these dyes is cationic. These dyes exhibit an unlimited shade range with high tinctorial strength, brightness and many colors are having fluorescent properties. The solubility of these dyes is very good in water, in the presence of glacial acetic acid. These dyes have a very high strike rate, therefore leveling is poor.

These dyes shows a very affinity towards wool, silk and cationic dye able acrylic, but have no affinity towards cellulosic. To dye cellulosic with basic dyes the material must be treated with suitable mordanting agents. The light fastness is poor to moderate, but wet fastness is good.

Direct dye/ Substantive dye:

Substantive dye is a dye used in a process in which dye molecules are attracted by physical forces at the molecular level to the textile. The amount of this attraction is known as "substantivity": the higher the substantivity the greater the attraction of the dye for the fiber. Substantive dyes work best on textiles with high contents of fibrous cellulose and are set in a slightly basic or neutral environment at high temperatures close to boiling point. Substantive dyes are set by hydrogen bonding.

Properties:
They are salts of complex sulfonic acids. More than 75% of all direct dyes are unmetallised azo structures, great majority of them are disazo or polyazo types. Their ionic nature is anionic.

They are soluble in water. They have an affinity for a wide variety of fibers such as cotton, viscose, silk jute, linen etc.

Vat dye:
Vat dyes are insoluble in water and leuco vat is not a stable product, however leuco esters of vat dyes are stable and readily soluble in water, leuco ester of vat dyes are available in powder form known as Indigosol Dyes or solubilized vat dyes. Being water soluble these dyes are readily applied to cellulosic fibers and are subsequently converted to parent vat dye by oxidation treatment.

Properties:
The stability of leuco esters is good and varies with different types. The decomposition may occur by action of light, moisture and acid fumes, which results into auto decomposition. The leuco ester powders are readily soluble in water, but boiling must be avoided, which may result into premature oxidation of the dye. The affinity for cellulosic materials is low, but the dye exhaustion is assisted by addition of electrolytes, however the affinity for animal fibers such as wool is good and can be increased by temperature. Most of the soluble vats are sensitive to light before development and exposure to light can affect the leucoester in powder or paste.

Reactive dye:
In a reactive dye a chromospheres contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing

to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax, but also wool is dye able with reactive dyes.

Disperse dye:
Disperse dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and are water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a dispersing agent and sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder. Their main use is to dye polyester but they can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, and acrylic fibers. In some cases, a dyeing temperature of 130 C is required, and a pressurized dye bath is used. The very fine particle size gives a large surface area that aids dissolution to allow uptake by the fiber. The dyeing rate can be significantly influenced by the choice of dispersing agent used during the grinding.

Properties:
Disperse dyes are supplied as powder and liquid products. Powder dyes contain 40 - 60 % of dispersing agents, while in liquid formulations the content of these substances is in the range of 10 - 30 %. Formaldehyde condensation products and ligninsulphonates are widely used for this purpose. Disperse dyes are used mainly for polyester, but also for cellulose (acetate and triacetate), polyamide and acrylic fibers.

Azoic dye:
Azoic dyeing is a technique in which an insoluble azo dye is produced directly onto or within the fiber. This is achieved by treating a fiber with both diazoic and coupling components. With suitable adjustment of dye bath conditions the two components react to produce the required insoluble azo dye. This technique of dyeing is unique, in that the final color is controlled by the choice of the diazoic and coupling components. This method of dyeing cotton is declining in importance due to the toxic nature of the chemicals used.

Sulfur dye:
Sulfur dyes are synthetic organic substantive dyes for cellulosic chemical structure. The exact chemical structure of the dyes is not known, but these dyes contain sulfur as an integral of the chromophore as well as in the polysulphide side chains. These are produced by theorization or sulphurisation of organic intermediates containing nitro and amino groups

Properties:
These are water insoluble dyes and have no affinity for the cellulosic as such, but solubilised when treated with a weak alkaline solution of sodium sulphide or any other reducing agent to form a leuco compound.

These dyes are absorbed by the cellulosic material in the leuco form from aqueous solution and when oxidized by suitable oxidizing agents, got converted into insoluble parent dye, which is fast to normal color fastness parameters. Economical dyeing with excellent tinctorial value and good build up properties Good overall colorfastness properties such as wash fastness, light fastness, perspiration fastness etc. Moderate fastness to crocking and poor fastness to chlorines bleaching agents such as bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite Limited shade range to produce only dull shades and there is no true red dye in the range.

These dyes can be applied by exhaust, semi continuous or continuous dyeing methods on garment, yarn, knits, fabric as well as loose stock etc

Color fastness to Perspiration - Standard Test Method:

This test is designed for use in assessing the fastness of the dyed, printed, or otherwise colored Textile yarns and fabrics of all kinds to the effects of human perspiration. The following Standard methods are generally employed to assess the perspiration fastness. ISO 105 EO4 1994 (Acid and Alkaline perspiration) AATCC 15:2002 (only Acid perspiration)

Summary:
Specimens of the textile in contact with the standard multifibre fabric (for color transfer) are Immersed in simulated alkaline and acid solution (see table below for liquor composition), Drained and placed between two plates under a specific pressure, temperature and time in a. Testing device (perspirometer). Any change in color of the specimens and staining of the multifibre is then assessed with the corresponding Grey scales for color change and staining.

Chemical composition I ISO 105 E04 solution alkali 0.5 g solution acid 0.5 g

AATCC 15 2002 (1994) 0.25 0.001 g

L- histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9O2N3.HCl.H2O) Sodium chloride (NaCl) Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (Na2HPO4.2 H2O) Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate, anhydrous (Na2HPO4) pH

5.0 g 2.2 g

5.0 g -

10 0.01 g -

2.5 g

8.0

5.5

Test conditions 37 2 C for 4 hours under 38 1 C for 6 a pressure of 5 kg hours under a pressure of 4.54 kg

Procedure in brief
Reagents:
Alkaline Solution - Freshly prepared, composition as given in Table above

Test Procedure:
Weigh each specimen. Calculate the amount of test solution according to a liquor ratio of 50:1, i.e. 50 ml test solution per 1g of specimen.

Immerse one composite specimen in the alkaline solution and the other in the Acid Solution for 30 minutes at room temperature to ensure that the specimens are thoroughly wetted out. (In AATCC method, place the test specimen in a 9 cm diameter and 2 cm deep Petri dish. Add only acid perspiration solution to a depth of 1.5 cm and Soak for 30 min.) Place each specimen onto a resin plate and draw across with the stirring rod to remove any air bubbles. Place another resin plate on top of the specimen to fully enclose it. Place a maximum of ten specimens into the perspirometer ensuring that each specimen is separated by one resin plate. Use a separate perspirometer for each solution. (In AATCC method, pass the specimen through the wringer so that it weighs 2.25 0.05 times the original weigh. To obtain consistent results all specimens of a given Construction in a test series should have identical pickup, as the degree of staining Increases with the amount of retained solution.

Assemble the plates in the perspirometer with the specimens evenly distributed between the plates. Place all 21 plates into the Unit regardless of the number of specimens)

Bring the upper pressure plate of the perspirometer down to rest on top of the resin Plates and place the weight onto the pressure plate and tighten the securing screws. This is equal to a pressure of 12.5 KPa (5 kg) in between being applied on the Specimens. Drain off any excess solution. Place the specimens into the oven at 37 2C, for 4 hours (38 1C, for 6 hours in AATCC method), set a timer for this. On completion of the test remove the specimens from the oven and separate them from the resin plates. Open out the specimens, so that they are only in contact at the line of stitching

Dry the specimens in an incubator or by laying on a screen at a temperature not exceeding 60C

Evaluation of results:

After drying, assess the specimens in a color matching cabinet under D65, artificial Day light. Assess color staining of all components on the multifibre using the grey scale for assessing staining. For multi-colored prints only assess the worst area of staining on each component.

Assess the change of shade on the original specimen compared to the tested specimen, using the grey scales for assessing change.

Squeezing excess liquor from sample

Loading the perspirometer

Loaded Perspirometer

Color Fastness to Rubbing (ISO 105-X12):

Test specifications:
Test number: AATCC Test Method 8-2005, ISO 105-X12, This test specifies a method for determining the resistance of the color of textiles of all kinds, including textile floor coverings and other pile fabrics, to rubbing off and staining other materials.

Crock meter is used for testing the transference of color from the surface of one material to another by either wet or dry rubbing.

Testing of color fastness to Dry Rubbing

Properly mount the specimen and test cloths. Reset the counter. The finger is positioned on the specimen at the bases front end and handle is rotated in the clockwise direction at the rate of approximately 1 revolution per second. The handle is then rotated equal to the number of strokes

specified by the test method. When the desired number of strokes is reached, the crocking cloth is removed from the finger and its degree of staining has to be evaluated by SDC grey scale.

Testing of color fastness to Wet Rubbing:

A fresh piece of crocking cloth is soaked in distilled water and the excess water is removed so that it contains its own mass of water. This wet piece of the crocking cloth is fixed over the end of the finger of the Crock meter and the test is undertaken. The dyed or printed fabric is mounted on the lower platform. Then 10 cycles are rubbed with a white fabric. The extent of color that rubs away onto the white fabric is determined against the grey scale for staining.

Specification for cotton rubbing cloth (ISO-105 F09 2009):

ISO 105-F09:2009 specifies a cotton rubbing cloth which can be used for the assessment of staining in color fastness to rubbing tests. The staining properties of the cotton rubbing cloth under test are assessed against cotton rubbing cloth reference fabric, using cotton dyed reference fabric, both of which are available from a specified source.

1/Colorfastness to dry cleaning (iso-105-D01):

A specimen of the textile in contact with a cotton fabric bag together with non-corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene, then squeezed or centrifuged, and dried in hot air.

The change in color of the specimen is assessed with the grey scale for assessing change in color. Not suitable for the evaluation of the durability of textile finishes.

Brief Description:Sew the test specimen with 12 steel plates into cotton bag (10x10 cm) and place in a stainless steel beaker of 550 ml volume and treat with 300 ml perchloroetylene for 30 min at 30 degree

temperature in the launder o meter. Then remove the test specimen, squeeze and dry in hot air max. 60 deg cel.

Assessment:Change of color, staining of the solvent with grey scale "staining" and / or filter assessment

Color Fastness to washing:

The resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, when subjected to washing is called color fastness to washing.

Principle:
In the test, change in color of the textile and also staining of color on the adjacent fabric are assessed. A 10 x 4 cm swatch of the colored fabric is taken and is sandwiched between two adjacent fabrics and stitched, the sample and the adjacent fabric are washed together. Five different types of washing are specified as different washing methods.

Test method

Washing severity

Soap+Soda in grams/liter

Time in minutes

Temperature in degree

# Steel balls

ISO-105CO1

Very mild like hand wash

30

40+/- 2

Nil

ISO-105CO2

5 times severe than method 1

45

50+/- 2

Nil

ISO-105CO3 ISO-105-

Mild washing Severe

5+2

30

60+/-2

Nil

5+2

30

95+/-2

10

CO4 ISO-105CO5

washing Severe washing 5+2 4 hrs 95+/-2 10

The solution for washing should be prepared to the required temperature of washing. The liquor material ratio is 50:1.

ASSESSMENT:
After soaping treatment, remove the specimen, rinse twice in cold water and then in running cold water under a tap. Squeeze it and air dry at a temperature not exceeding 60C. The change in color and staining is evaluated with the help of grey scales.

Test for color fastness part B02 Color fastness artificial light: Xenon arc fading:
High performance, air-cooled xenon lamp Interchangeable filter systems for switching between ISO and AATCC standards Blue Wool and Controlled Irradiance operating modes Up to 27 sample holder faces giving a total exposure area of 1640cm2 Exceptionally low running costs Complies with international standards for testing textiles and leather Compact, highly ergonomic and stylish design

A specimen of the textile to be tested is exposed to artificial light under prescribed conditions along with a set of blue wool references. The color fastness is accessed by comparing the change in color of the test specimen with that of the references used.

First white (bleached or optically brightened textiles) the color fastness is accessed by comparing the change in whiteness of the specimen with that of the reference used.

Weather o meter:
In this apparatus specimen materials can be subjected to artificial and accelerated weathering tests which simulate natural weathering. Controlled cycles of ultraviolet radiation, light, salt, electric arcs, water spray, and heating elements are used to simulate the natural conditions of sun, rain and temperature changes.

On screen parameters:
Set point

Black panel temperatures Chamber temperature Relative humidity Irradiance 420 nm

63.0 42.0 30.0 1.10

Test status:
Cycle: light Sprays rack: off Specimen: off Segment ends in 23.8 hours Test ends in 84.8 hours Sunlight versus artificial light sources A compares of relative spectral energy distribution Accelerated weathering devices are used to determine the effects of sunlight on various substrates.

Before start Weather 0 meter:

Check main power switch is on. Check machine power is switch on. Water supply valve of Millipore system is on. Liquid air power switch is on. Exhaust duct is on.

Room ac is on. Air compressor is on for maintain the chamber humidity Check the gravity drain valves are open.

After shutdown weather 0 meter:

Room ac is off Air compressor is off Exhaust duct is off Liquid air power is switch off Main power switch is off Power switch of machine is off.

Reference material:
Either of two sets of reference material may be used. the relationship between reference 1 to 8 .results from testing which use reference standards from both sources should be compared only with the knowledge that fading characteristics may be differ .the results from the two sets of references are not interchangeable.

Reference 1 to 8:

Blue wool reference develops and produce in Europe are identified by the numerical designation 1 to 8.these references are blue wool clothes dyed with the dyes. They range from 1 (very low color fastness) to 8 (very high color fastness) so that each higher numbered reference is approximately twice as fast as the preceding one.

Reference L2 to L8:
Blue wool references develop and produce in united states are identified by the letter L followed by the numerical designation 2 to 9.these 8 references are specially prepared by blending varying proportions of wool dyed with C l mordant Blue 1.

Humidity test control:

Effective humidity is defined as the combination of air and surface temperatures and air relative humidity which governs the moisture content of the surface of the test specimen during exposure. The effective humidity can be measured only by determining the color fastness of a specific humidity test control. For the purpose of this part of ISO 105, the

humidity test control is a red azoic dyed cotton cloth. This control has been calibrated by exposing it facing south in several Western European locations at different times of the year. The exposures being made together with the references in sealed vessels containing air maintained at constant air maintains at constant humidifies between 0 to 100%.the results did not vary greatly and the mean values .When this control was exposed under the conditions specified in ISO label 105-BO1 in temperature zones, its color fastness was found to be, on average, 5.

Reference 1 2 3 4 5

Dye {color index designation} C l acid blue 104 C l acid blue 109 C l acid blue 83 C l acid blue 121 C l acid blue 47

6 7 8

C l acid blue 23 C l solubilized Vat blue 5 C l solubilized Vat blue 8

Table 1-Dyes for blue wool references 1 to 8

Xenon arc lamp apparatus:

Either air cooled or water cooled. The specimens and the references are exposed in one of the two types of apparatus. The variation in light in intensity over the area covered by the specimens and references shall not exceed +_ 10% of the mean .The recommended level of irradiance (radiant power per unit area) measured by a radio meter is 42 W/m2 X wavelength, in nano meter at 300 nm to 400 nm, equivalent in cases of water-cooled xenon arc apparatus to 1.1 w/m2 X wavelength, in nanometers, at 420 nm. The distance from the surface of the specimen and from the surfaces of the references to the lamp shall be the same.

Light source, in a well-ventilated exposure chamber. The light source shall consist of a xenon arc lamp of correlated color temperature 5500 k to 6500 K, the size of which will depend on the type of apparatus used.

Light filter, placed between the light source and the specimens and references so that the ultra violet spectrum is steadily reduced. The transmission of the filter system used shall be at least 90 % between 380 nm and 750 nm, falling to 0 between 310 nm and 320 nm. Heat filter, placed between the light source and the specimens and references so that the amount of infrared {ir} radiation contained in the xenon arc spectrum is steadily reduced

Procedure:
Check that the apparatus is in good running order and that is equipped with a clean xenon burner tube. Place a portion of the humidity test control measuring not less than 45 mm X 10 mm, together with the blue wool, if possible in the middle area of the specimen holder. Place the filled specimen holders on the specimen rack of the apparatus, with the holders supported both top and bottom and in proper vertical alignment. Completely fill all remaining spaces in the specimen rack with holders containing white card board. Operate the apparatus with the light on continuously until a test is completed unless the lamp requires cleaning or the burner, outer filter or inner filter requires changing because it has reached the maximum number of hours of recommended usage. Expose the partially covered strip of the humidity test control and the references simultaneously until a contrast between the exposed and unexposed portions equal to grade 4 on the gray scale is produced on the humidity test control.

Cotton dyeing:
Recipe:
L: R = 1:10 2g sodium chloride 2.5ml sodium hydroxide

1g dye stuff

Procedure:

First prepared the 1% dye solution in a warm water then pipe tout 10.0ml of dye solution in to a dyeing pot then add 2g sodium chloride then place the fabric into it & boiling at 30degre for 15min on a water bath, then add 20% sodium hydroxide then place in a dyeing bath at 60degre for 60min

Pot 1: Remazol .G yellow Pot 2: Dramamine yellow Pot 3: Renazol red Pot 4: Renazol red+Remazol .G yellow Pot 5: Dramamine yellow+Remazol.G.yellow

Calculation:
Weight of fabric=5.0g Volume of solution=5.0 x 10 =50.0ml 12.5ml = 37.5ml