November Jacket ENGLISH 3
November Jacket ENGLISH 3
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Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Measurements: Width: 52 (55) 57 (60) 64 (68) 73 (79) 84 cm [20½ (21¾) 22½ (23½) 25¼ (26¾) 28¾ (31)
33 inches] (the equivalent of a bust circumference of 104 (109) 115 (120) 128 (136) 147
(157) 168 cm [41 (43) 45¼ (47¼) 50½ (53½) 58 (61¾) 66¼ inches])
Length: 62 (64) 67 (69) 73 (73) 74 (75) 75 cm [24½ (25¼) 26½ (27¼) 28¾ (28¾) 29¼
(29½) 29½ inches] measured mid back
Gauge: 15 sts x 44 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in brioche stitch on 3.5 mm [US4] needles
(Please note that 44 rows in brioche stitch are counted as 22 knit sts)
Needles: Circular needles: 3.5 mm [US4] / 40, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 32 and/or 40 inches]
Materials: 800 (800-900) 900 (900) 900 (900) 1000 (1000) 1000 g Håndværksgarn by Hjelholts
Uldspinderi (100 g = 200 m [219 yds]) or 800 (850) 900 (950) 950 (1000) 1000 (1050)
1100 g Peer Gynt by Sandnes Garn (50 g = 91 m [98 yds])
PATTERN
The November Jacket is worked from the top down in brioche stitch. First, a section is worked in double knitting
for the back of the neck, which will later be connected to the front edges. Then, stitches are picked up and knitted
along one side of this section and the back yoke is worked from these stitches. After this, the right shoulder and
left shoulder are worked. These three sections are joined at the underarms, and the body is worked back and
forth in brioche stitch with front edges in double knitting. Stitches are picked up and knitted around the armholes
and the sleeves are worked down from these. The pockets are also worked in brioche stitch and sewn on at the
end.
Size guide
The November Jacket is designed to have approx. 20 cm [8 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to
be approx. 20 cm [8 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL)
3XL (4XL) 5XL are intended for a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130
(130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-
59 inches].
Before beginning your project, measure yourself with a measuring tape around your bust (or your widest upper
body part) to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 94 cm [37 inches] around
your bust (or around the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size M. A size M jacket has a bust
circumference of 115 cm [45¼ inches] which in the given example would give you 21 cm [8¼ inches] of positive
ease.
Inc: Brk1 leaving the stitch on the left needle, yarn over around right needle, then brk1 on the same stitch again,
then let the stitch fall off the left needle. On the following row, the yarn over is worked in pattern as a regular
stitch.
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Neck edge
The yoke is constructed so the edge at the back of the neck is knitted first. After this, sts are picked up and
knitted along one side of this section and the back yoke is worked from these sts. The neck edge (and later the
front edges) are worked in double knitting, while the rest of the jacket is worked in brioche stitch. Work as follows:
Cast on 8 sts on the 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needles. Increase the number of sts and establish
double knitting as follows:
Row 1 (WS): *K1, cast on a stitch using the backward loop method*, repeat from * to * a total of 7 times, k1.
There are now a total of 15 sts on the needle.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * the last stitch, sl1 wyif.
Row 3 (WS): *K1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * the last stitch, k1.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 a total of 22 times until the work measures approx. 10 cm [4 inches].
Work a Row 2 from the RS once more, so the two ends of the yarn are at the same end of the knitting.
Let the 15 sts rest on a stitch holder or length of scrap yarn, but do not break the yarn, so you can continue from
this point in the next step.
Back yoke
Using the working yarn from the back neck edge pick up and knit 15 sts along one side of the neck edge (holding
the work so you pick up and knit sts from the RS of the neck edge), picking up and knitting 2 sts for every 3 rows
(see video on www.petiteknit.com). Work the back yoke from these 15 sts (in brioche stitch), beginning with a
WS row. Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selv st).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selv st), *brk1, sl1yo*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, brk1, k1 (selv st).
Row 3 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, brk1*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selv st).
The brioche stitch pattern has now been established. Continue in brioche stitch while at the same time working
increases every 4th row as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (selv st), brk1, sl1yo, brk1, sl1yo, inc, work in brioche stitch as established to the
last 6 sts, inc, sl1yo, brk1, sl1yo, brk1, k1 (selv st) (4 sts have been increased).
Row 2 (WS): K1 (selv st), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Row 3 (RS): K1 (selv st), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Row 4 (WS): K1 (selv st), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Work Rows 1-4 a total of 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 (20) 22 (24) 26 times (so a total of 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 (20) 22 (24) 26
increase rows have been worked). There are now a total of 75 (79) 83 (87) 91 (95) 103 (111) 119 sts on the needles.
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Continue back and forth in brioche stitch without increases as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (selv st), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Row 2 (WS): K1 (selv st), work brioche stitch as established to the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Work Rows 1 and 2 until the back yoke measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 19 (19) 20 (20) 21 cm [7 (7) 7½ (7½) 7½ (7½) 8
(8) 8¼ inches] measured from where sts were picked up along the neckband (i.e. not incl. the neck edge).
The back yoke has now been completed. Break the working yarn.
Right shoulder
The right shoulder is worked on 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needles. The shoulder and front edge
are worked at the same time. The front edges are worked in double knitting, continuing from the neckband, while
the shoulder itself is worked in brioche stitch. The double-knitted neckband that was worked at the beginning for
the back lies like a flat tube of stockinette stitch on both sides at the top of the back yoke. Because the place
where sts are picked up from should be as invisible as possible and because the sts that are picked up are to be
worked in double knitting, the sts are picked up in a special way. This is described in detail here (see video on
www.petiteknit.com):
Pick up row (RS): Join new yarn and pick up and knit 31 (33) 35 (37) 41 (45) 49 (53) 57 sts under the
first 31 (33) 35 (37) 41 (45) 49 (53) 57 ”garter stitch knots” counted from the neck
(pick up and knit sts in the direction from the sleeve side towards the back of the
neck). Place a marker to mark the transition from brioche stitch to double knitting.
Pick up and knit 7 sts in the 7 sts of the cast-on edge of the back neck edge. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Pick up and knit 1 stitch in the first stitch of the cast-on edge of the back neck edge,
sl1 wyif, *pick up and knit 1 stitch in the next stitch of the cast-on edge of the back
neck edge, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * a total of 6 times (there are now 14 sts for the
neck edge), slip marker, *k1, sl1yo*, repeat from * to * the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
There are now a total of 45 (47) 49 (51) 55 (59) 63 (67) 71 sts on the needles.
Row 3 (RS): K1 (selv st), *brk1, sl1yo*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *k1, sl1 wyif*,
repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): *K1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *brk1, sl1yo*, repeat from * to
* the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until the shoulder measures 31 (31) 33 (33) 34 (34) 36 (37) 39 cm [12¼ (12¼) 13 (13) 13½
(13½) 14¼ (14½) 15¼ inches] from where sts were picked up. End on a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.
Break the working yarn and let the sts rest, while the left shoulder is worked.
Left shoulder
Place the 15 resting sts from the back neck edge onto 3.5 mm [US4] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needles. Place
a marker after the first 14 sts (these 14 sts are now the double knitted front edge). In extension of these sts pick
up and knit 30 (32) 34 (36) 40 (44) 48 (52) 56 sts from the RS along the back yoke “garter knot edge”. There are
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now a total of 45 (47) 49 (51) 55 (59) 63 (67) 71 sts on the needle. (Note that one stitch less is picked up than for
the right shoulder, as this missing stitch is “borrowed” from the back neck edge).
The first row is a WS row. Establish brioche stitch and double knitting by working as follows:
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat
from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *sl1yo, brk1*, repeat from * to
* the last stitch, k1 (selv st).
Row 3 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat
from * to * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the work measures 31 (31) 33 (33) 34 (34) 36 (37) 39 cm [12¼ (12¼) 13 (13) 13½ (13½)
14¼ (14½) 15¼ inches] measured from where sts were picked up along the back neck edge (count to make sure
the two shoulders are the same length).
Do not break the yarn as the next step follows from here.
Body
Now join left shoulder, back and right shoulder for the body. The body is worked back and forth on 3.5 mm [US4]
/ 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needles. Join the three parts by first working across the left shoulder,
then the back and then the right shoulder, as follows:
*Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker (left front edge), slip marker, work in brioche stitch as established
across left shoulder, cast on 3 (3) 3 (3) 5 (7) 7 (7) 7 sts in extension of the sts on the needle using the backward
loop method for the underarm, work in brioche stitch as established across the back, cast on 3 (3) 3 (3) 5 (7) 7 (7)
7 sts in extension of the sts on the needle using the backward loop method for the underarm, work in brioche
stitch as established to marker, slip marker, *k1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to end of row (right front edge). There
are now a total of 171 (179) 187 (195) 211 (227) 243 (259) 275 sts on the needles.
Work back and forth in brioche stitch and double knitting, as follows:
Row 1 (WS): *K1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to marker (right front edge), *brk1, sl1yo*, repeat from
* to * to 1 stitch before marker, brk1, slip marker, *sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to
end of row (left front edge).
Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker (left front edge), slip marker, *sl1yo, brk1*,
repeat from * to * to 1 stitch before marker, sl1yo, slip marker, *k1, sl1 wyif*, repeat
from * to * to end of row (right front edge).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the jacket measures 57 (59) 62 (64) 68 (68) 69 (70) 70 cm [22½ (23¼) 24½ (25¼) 26¾
(26¾) 27¼ (27½) 27½ inches] measures from the back neck edge (incl. edge) – or to the desired length, try it
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along the way. Keep in mind that if you decide to make it longer, the yarn requirements might increase. End on
a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.
The hem is worked in double knitting, which is established from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker, slip marker, *cast on 1 stitch using the
backward loop method, k1*, repeat from * to * to marker, cast on 1 stitch using the
backward loop method, slip marker, *k1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to end of row.
There are now a total of 315 (331) 347 (363) 395 (427) 459 (491) 523 sts on the
needles. Remove markers.
Row 2 (WS): *K1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to the last stitch, k1.
Row 3 (RS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last stitch, sl1 wyif.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the det the double knitted section measures 5 cm [2 inches]. End on a RS row, so the
bind off is worked from the WS. Bind off using the Italian bind-off technique.
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round on 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needles in brioche stitch with
a double knitted cuff (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
Pick up and knit 62 (62) 66 (66) 68 (68) 70 (70) 74 sts around the armhole edge. This is the approx. equivalent to
picking up 2 sts for every 3 “garter stitch knots” all the way around and 1 stitch in each of the sts cast on at the
underarm using the backward loop method. Start picking up sts in the middle of the underarm sts. Join in the
round and place a marker for the beginning of the round.
Continue as follows:
Round 1: *Sl1yo, brp*, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: *Brk, sl1yo* repeat from * to * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until the sleeve measures 41 (41) 41 (41) 41 (41) 41 (41) 41 cm [16¼ (16¼) 16¼ (16¼)
16¼ (16¼) 16¼ (16¼) 16¼ inches] or to the desired length from where sts were picked up. (Note that the brioche
purl is worked every other round when brioche stitch is worked in the round).
Work a double knitted cuff perpendicular to the sleeve, as follows (see video on www.petiteknit.com):
Cast on 7 sts using the backward loop method in extension of the sts on the needle. There are now a total of 69
(69) 73 (73) 75 (75) 77 (77) 81 sts on the needles.
Now work back and forth in double knitting starting with the 7 new sts as follows:
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Row 1 (RS): *K1, cast on 1 stitch using the backward loop method*, work from * to * a total of 6
times, k2tog tbl (the first of the newly cast on sts are knitted together with the first
stitch of the round). Turn.
Row 2 (WS): *Sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last stitch, sl1 wyif. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): *K1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * a total of 6 times, k2tog tbl. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all sleeve sts have been worked and there are 13 sts left on the needles.
Distribute these 13 sts on 2 needles, so every other stitch is on one needle and every other sts is on the other
needle. Sew these open sts together with the sts cast-on at the beginning of the sleeve cuff using Kitchener
stitch, first from the RS and then from the WS (see video on www.petiteknit.com).
Pockets
The pockets are worked from the bottom up in brioche stitch and are finished with a double knitted top edge.
The pockets are sewn onto the jacket at the end.
Cast on 27 (27) 29 (29) 31 (31) 31 (31) 31 sts on 3.5 mm [US4] needles. Work back and forth in brioche stitch as
follows:
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selv st).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selv st), *brk1, sl1yo*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, brk1, k1 (selv st).
Row 3 (WS): K1 (selv st), *sl1yo, brk1*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1yo, k1 (selv st).
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the work measures 14 cm [5½ inches]. The next row is a RS row.
Now establish double knitting as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (selv st), *cast on 1 stitch using the backward loop method, k1*, repeat from * to *
the last stitch, cast on 1 stitch using the backward loop method, k1 (selv st). There
are now a total of 53 (53) 57 (57) 61 (61) 61 (61) 61 sts on the needles.
Row 1 (WS): K1 (selv st), *k1, sl1 wyif*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, k1, k1 (selv st).
Row 2 (RS): K1 (selv st), * sl1 wyif, k1*, repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts, sl1 wyif, k1 (selv st).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the double knitted edge measures 3 cm [1¼ inches]. The next row is a WS row.
Finishing
Sew the pockets to the fronts of the jacket as follows (see video on www.petiteknit.com):
Place the pocket on the front, so that the bottom edge of the pocket sits in the transition between the brioche
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stitch body and the double knitting hem, and so that the sides of the pocket with the selv sts run along purl
columns in the brioche stitch pattern on the front.
Start by sewing the bottoms of the pockets to the jacket fronts in neat careful stitches. Now the placement of
the pockets has been stabilized.
Next sew the sides of the pockets to the fronts of the jacket, so that each selv st is sewn to one brioche purl
stitch. Take care to sew an equal number of sts on each side of the pockets, to ensure that they look straight
and neat.
Weave in all ends.
Abbreviations
brk1 brioche knit one, see Brioche Knitting Abbreviations
inc increase, see Brioche Increases
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together
p purl
RS right side of your work
selv st selvedge stitch, the first and last stitch on the row is worked in garter stitch (knit on all rows)
sl1 slip one stitch purl-wise from left to right needle without knitting it
sl1yo slip one, yarn over, see Brioche Knitting Abbreviations
st(s) stitch(es)
tbl through the back loop (twisted)
WS wrong side of your work
wyif with the yarn in front