Scribd
Upload
2 views8 pages

One Knob of Glorious Phasey Phun: Phase 90

The document provides detailed instructions for building the PHASE 90 pedal, including important notes on using daughterboards, power supply specifications, and component specifications. It emphasizes the importance of proper soldering techniques and testing the circuit before completing the switch and LED wiring. Additionally, it includes a drilling template for the enclosure and guidelines for wiring connections.

Uploaded by

Raul Martin
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
2 views8 pages

One Knob of Glorious Phasey Phun: Phase 90

The document provides detailed instructions for building the PHASE 90 pedal, including important notes on using daughterboards, power supply specifications, and component specifications. It emphasizes the importance of proper soldering techniques and testing the circuit before completing the switch and LED wiring. Additionally, it includes a drilling template for the enclosure and guidelines for wiring connections.

Uploaded by

Raul Martin
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 8

PHASE 90

One knob of glorious


phasey phun

Contents of this document are ©2019 Pedal Parts Ltd.


No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
Important notes
If you’re using any of our footswitch daughterboards,
DOWNLOAD THE DAUGHTERBOARD DOCUMENT
• Download and read the appropriate build document for the daughterboard
as well as this one BEFORE you start.

• DO NOT solder the supplied Current Limiting Resistor (CLR) to the main
circuit board even if there is a place for it. This should be soldered to the
footswitch daughterboard.

POWER SUPPLY

Unless otherwise stated in this document this circuit is designed to be


powered with 9V DC.

COMPONENT SPECS

Unless otherwise stated in this document:


• Resistors should be 0.25W. You can use those with higher ratings but
check the physical size of them.
• Electrolytics caps should be at least 25V for 9V circuits, 35V for 18V
circuits. Again, check physical size if using higher ratings.

LAYOUT CONVENTIONS
Unless otherwise stated in this document, the following are used:

• Electrolytic capacitors:
Long leg (anode) to square pad.
• Diodes/LEDs:
Striped leg (cathode) to square pad. Short leg to square pad for LEDs.
• ICs:
Square pad indicates pin 1.
Schematic + BOM

R1 10K R22 150K C1 10n SPEED 500KC


R2 470K R23 4K7 C2 47n
R3 150K R24 470K C3 47n FBACK 47K trim**
R4 150K R25 150K C4 47n BIAS 250K trim
R5 56K R26 47R C5 47n
R6 150K R27 10K C6 47n * / ** see page 5
R7 10K R28 1M C7 47n
R8 10K R30 1M C8 10n
R9 22K C9 15u elec
R10 10K D1 5.1v zener C10 100u elec
R11 10K D2 1N4001 C11 100n
R12 22K D3 LED C12 22u
R13 10K Q1 2N5087
R14 10K Q2-5 Matched FETs*
R15 22K
R16 10K IC1 TL072
R17 10K IC2 TL074
R18 22K
R20 150K
R21 3M9
PCB layout ©2020 Pedal Parts Ltd.
22K resistor across
these pads if going
for that option.
See below.

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform to


the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can be BIASING
paired with the appropriate daughterboard for Use the bias trimmer to adjust the voltage at the
quick and easy offboard wiring. Check the separate gates of the FETs. You can do this by ear, simply
daughterboard document for details. tweaking until you get the best phasing effect. If you
Be very careful when soldering the diodes and want to do it by numbers it should be around 3V.
transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You

**FEEDBACK
should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip or
reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you solder
them. Keep exposure to heat to a minimum (under
We’ve added space for a trimmer for the feedback
2 seconds). Same goes for the ICs if you aren’t
setting. The standard parts for this are:
using sockets.
Script logo version - empty - no feedback
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can
be mounted flush in the box. Block logo version - 22K resistor
You should solder all other board-mounted So it’s up to you. Leave it out, put the 22K across
components before you solder the pot. Once it’s in the trimmer pads shown in red above, or use a
place you’ll have no access to some of the board. trimmer and adjust to taste. If the latter, use a
47-50K trimmer, set it to the middle position and

*FETs
tweak it either way until you’re happy.

There are extra pads provided for the trimmers so


You need to use a matched set of FETs for this you can use several different types. Just drop the
build. The board is designed for 2N5457. If you’re pins into the holes as they naturally fall. Lines
using different FETs check your pinout. shown above show which pads are internally
connected on the PCB.
Test the board!
Check the relevant daughterboard document for more
info before you undertake this stage.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and LED
wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it
doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect
IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small
amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If you’re using a ribbon cable you can tack the wires to the ends of that. It’s a lot easier to take them
off there than it is do desolder wires from the PCB pads.
If it works, carry on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the problem is
with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

Your completed circuit board


including pots
Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT

BOARD
GND

OUT
BOARD
OUT
BOARD
GND

IN +
L
LE
ED
BOARD
9V

+
D

BOARD
9V

BOARD
GND BATTERY

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug
from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.
The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You
can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to
the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.
It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip
Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),
and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
Drilling template
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots 7mm
Jacks 10mm
Hammond 1590B Footswitch 12mm
60 x 111 x 31mm DC Socket 12mm
Toggle switches 6mm
It’s a good idea to drill the pot and
toggle switch holes 1mm bigger if
you’re board-mounting them.
Wiggle room = good!

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzDog.co.uk

You might also like