INSTALLATION GUIDE

Thank you for choosing our flooring. When properly installed and cared for, your new
flooring will be easy to maintain and will keep its great look for years.

Please read all the instructions before you begin the installation. Improper installation will
void warranty.

I. GENERAL PREPARATIONS

TOOLS REQUIRED: Spacers, rubber mallet, ruler, pencil, tape measure, utility knife.

 Prior to installation, inspect material in daylight for visible faults/damage, including

defects or discrepancies in color or shine; check the edges of the flooring for straightness
and any damage. No claims on surface defects will be accepted after installation.
 It is preferable to lay boards perpendicular to the window, following the direction of the
main source of light. For the best result, make sure to always work from 3 to 4 cartons at
a time, mixing the planks during the installation.
 Check if subfloor/site conditions comply with the specifications described in these
instructions. If you are not satisfied, do not install, and contact your supplier.
 Flooring products can be damaged by rough handling before installation. Exercise care
when handling and transporting these products. Store, transport and handle the cartons in
a manner to prevent any damage. Store cartons flat, never on edge.
 Flooring products can be heavy and bulky. Always use proper lifting techniques when
handling these products. Whenever possible, make use of material-handling equipment
such as dollies or material carts. Never lift more than you can safely handle; get
assistance.
 Calculate the room surface prior to installation and depending on the shape and
installation area, plan an extra 15-20 % of flooring for cutting waste.
 The environment where the flooring is to be installed is critically important with regard to
successful installation and continued performance of the flooring products. The flooring
is intended to be installed in interior locations only. These interior locations must meet
climatic and structural requirements as well.
 In most cases, this product does not need to be acclimated. However, if the boxes of
flooring were exposed over 2 hours to extreme temperatures under 50°F / 10°C or over
104°F / 40°C within the 12 hours before the installation, acclimation is required. In this
case, keep the boards in room temperature for at least 12 hours in unopened package
before you start the installation. The room temperature must be maintained consistent
between 70-80°F / 20-25°C before and during the installation.
 Flooring should only be installed in temperature-controlled environments. It is necessary
to maintain a constant temperature of 70-80°F / 20-25°C before and during the
installation. Portable heaters are not recommended as they may not heat the room and
subfloor sufficiently. Kerosene heaters should never be used.
 After installation, make sure that the flooring is not be exposed to temperatures less than
50°F / 10°C or greater than 120°F / 50°C.
 For floor surfaces exceeding 4356 ft2 / 400 m2 and/or lengths exceeding 66 ft / 20 m, use
expansion moldings.
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II. SUBFLOOR INFORMATION

 The flooring can be installed over most

existing hard surface floor coverings,
provided that the existing floor surface is
clean, flat, dry, securely fastened,
structurally sound.
 High spots and bumps must be leveled.
Deflections more than 3/16” / 5 mm
within 10 ft. / 3 m radius must be leveled
out with an appropriate leveling compound, the same applies to unevenness of more than
1/32”/ 1 mm within 8” / 20 cm.
 Ceramic tile floors, ceramic and marble grout joints, and irregularities in concrete should
be filled and leveled.
 Depressions, deep grooves, expansion joints and other subfloor imperfections that exceed
3/20”/4mm wide &1/32”/1mm depth must be filled with patching & leveling compound.
 Substrates must be free from excessive moisture or alkali. Remove dirt, paint, varnish,
wax, oils, solvents, any foreign matter and contaminates.
 Do not use products containing petroleum, solvents or citrus oils to prepare substrates as
they can cause staining and expansion of the new flooring.
 Although this floor is waterproof, it is not aimed to be used as a moisture barrier. The
concrete moisture vapor emissions should not exceed 8 lb / 3.63 kg (ASTM F1869) / 90
% RH (ASTM F2170) with a PH limit
 of 9 / max. 2.5 % moisture content (CM method).
 This product is also not to be installed in areas that have a risk of flooding such as saunas
or outdoor areas.

WOOD SUBFLOORS

 If this flooring is intended to be installed over an existing wood floor, it is

recommended to repair any loose boards or squeaks before you begin the
installation.
 Nail or screw every 6” / 15 cm along joints to avoid squeaking.
 Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Use of a 6 mil / 0.15 mm poly-film
is required to cover 100 % of the crawl space earth.
 We recommend laying the flooring crossways to the existing floorboards.
 All other subfloors - Plywood, OSB, particleboard, chipboard, wafer board,
etc. must be structurally sound and must be installed following their
manufacturer’s recommendations.

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CONCRETE SUBFLOORS

 Floors must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, smooth, permanently dry,
clean, and free of all foreign material such as dust, wax, solvents, paint,
grease, oils, and old adhesive residue. Curing agents and hardeners could
cause bonding failure and should not be used.
 We recommend using a minimum 6 mil / 0.15 mm poly-film as a moisture
barrier between the concrete subfloor and the flooring.

DO NOT INSTALL OVER

 Any type of carpet.

 Existing cushion-backed vinyl flooring.
 Floating floor of any type, loose lay, and perimeter fastened sheet vinyl.
 Hardwood flooring / wood subfloors that lay directly on concrete or over dimensional
lumber or plywood used over concrete.

IMPORTANT NOTICE

In-floor Radiant Heat: Flooring can be installed over 1/2” / 12 mm embedded radiant heat
using the floating method. Maximum operating temperature should never exceed 85°F /
30°C. Use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating.
 Turn the heat off for 24 hours before, during and 24 hours after installation when
installing over radiant heated subfloors.
 Before installing over newly constructed radiant heat systems, operate the system at
maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the cementitious topping of the
radiant heat system.
 Make sure that the temperature in the room is maintained consistent between 70-80°F /
20-25°C before and during the installation.
 Floor temperature must not exceed 85°F / 30°C.
 Use of an in-floor temperature sensor is recommended to avoid overheating.
 Once the installation has been completed, the heating system should be turned on and
increased gradually (5-degree increments) until returning to normal operating
conditions.
 Refer to the radiant heat system’s manufacturer recommendations for additional
guidance.

Warning: Electric heating mats that are not embedded into the subfloor are not
recommended for use underneath the floors. Using electric heating mats that are not
embedded and applied directly underneath the floors could void the warranty for your floor
in case of failure. It is best to install the flooring over embedded radiant floor heating
systems and adhere to the guidelines listed above.

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III. INSTALLATION

 Remove baseboard, quarter-round moldings, wall base, appliances and furniture from
room. For best results, door trim should be under-cut to allow flooring to move freely
without being pinched. After preparation work, sweep and vacuum the entire work area to
remove all dust and debris.
 With a floating floor, you must always ensure you leave a 1/4” / 6 mm gap between walls
and fixtures such as pillars, stairs, etc. These gaps will be covered with trim moldings
after the floor is installed.
 Whenever possible, plan the layout so that the joints in the planks do not fall on top of
joints or seams in the existing substrate.
 Do not install your kitchen cabinets directly over your floor. The floor’s quality can only
be guaranteed as long as the floor is allowed move freely.
 UNDERLAY: If the floor does not have a pre-attached underlayment, an additional
underlayment is recommended in order to improve acoustic performance and absorb
some irregularities on the substrate. Best results can be expected with an underlayment of
0.04” / 1 mm to max 0.06” / 1.5 mm thickness with a high density (>11.2 lbs / ft3 / >180
kg / m³) and high compressive strength (>200kPa) that supports the click system during
daily use. Underlayments with a low density and an inadequate compressive strength
could damage the locking mechanism and will void warranty.
If the floor has a pre-attached underlayment, the use of an additional underlayment could
damage the locking mechanism and will void warranty.
 CUTTING TIPS: To cut the plank, use a simple utility knife and ruler, and with the top
side facing up, cut heavily and several times on the same axis. The knife will not go
through the surface but make a deep cut. You can then lift one half of the plank using
your other hand to hold down the second placing it very close to the cut. The plank will
split naturally. For ease of installation, cuts may be made using a laminate or vinyl
flooring cutter.

ATTENTION: The letter “L” or “R” marked on the back of each herringbone plank indicate
two different profiling directions. There is the same number of L planks and R planks in each
box. Please pay attention to the markings and always install them paired together. In below
instructions, L planks are represented in white, R marked planks are represented in grey.

The subfloor should be even, dry, clean. Carpet staples or glue residues
must be removed, and the floor must be clean to ensure proper installation.

Separating into distinctive piles will make it easier to find the correct
plank should the L or R markings be cut off.

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METHOD 1 – FISHBONE DIAGONAL PATTERN

• Using a pencil, a string and a ruler, draw a line at 45° that will be
used to align the pattern according to the image. You can then start
staggering your spacers across your wall, leaving a 1/4” / 6 mm
expansion gap with the wall.

• Start from the left corner opposite from the door. Use an "L"
marked plank first and put the tongue sides against the wall. Then
take your 2nd plank (marked “R”) and place it perpendicularly to
the 1st (Refer to the clicking tips on the bottom of the page). For
the 3rd and 4th plank, refer to the cutting tips below. Continue the
installation according to the sequence.

CUTTING TIPS: To install the 3rd (L), 4th (R) and any other plank that will have the
short side against the wall, measure the length of the plank to fit and cut accordingly.
Make sure you use the correct side of the plank (see images below).

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 This sequence is given as an example; it will depend on
the shape of the room. The important is to always start
with the planks placed against the walls.

METHOD 2 – FISHBONE PATTERN

One starting set

• At first, follow the cutting template on the inside of
your box to cut the 5 pieces (L1, L2, L3, R1, R2)
needed for one starting set. You will need a total of 5
planks in order to make the required 5 starting set
pieces (L1, L2, L3, R1, R2). You won’t be able to
use offcuts of the same planks within one set.

• Align the first starting set with a chalk line going

through the center line of the room (to center the
installation, make sure the line goes through the tip of
the pattern). Always leave a 1/4” / 6 mm expansion
gap with the wall.

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• Each starting set is 34.25” / 870 mm wide, measure how many starting sets you will need
based on the width of the room. You can connect the starting sets with one full plank.

• When you reach the walls on both

sides, measure the distance between
the wall and the closest starting set.
Assemble a new set, mark the
measured distance on it, cut the planks
(the set can be disassembled for this)
and install the planks in the gap.
• Continue this pattern until the room is entirely covered.

CLICKING TIPS
Place the short end tight to perpendicular plank. Click it into the long end of the parallel
panel at a 45°angle. Fold down in a single movement. It is recommended to slightly tap the
planks on the edge after clicking them together to make sure they are clicked tightly.
NOTE: If you notice both planks aren’t at the same height or are not well locked together,
please follow the disassembling instructions at the bottom of the page, disassemble and check
if any debris stuck inside the lock is obstructing.

WARNING
Failure to properly line up the end joint and attempting to force it in while out of alignment
could result in permanent damage to the end joint.

HOLES FOR PIPES

Measure the diameter of the pipe and drill a hole that is 13/16” / 20 mm
larger. Saw off a piece and lay the board in place on the floor. Then lay
the sawed-off piece in place.

DOOR MOLDING AND SKIRTING

Lay a board (with the decorative side down) next to the door molding
and as shown in the figure. Then slide the floorboard under molding.

DISASSEMBLING
To disassemble, simply lift the planks one by one following the opposite sequence as the
installation.

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IV. FINISHING THE INSTALLATION

 Replace molding or wall base, allowing slight clearance between the molding and the
planks.
 Nail the molding to the wall surface, not through the flooring.
 At doorways and at other areas where the flooring planks may meet other flooring
surfaces, the use of a transition molding is required to cover the exposed edge but do not
pinch the planks. Leave a 1/4" / 6 mm gap between the planks and the adjoining surface.

V. MAINTENANCE

 Sweep or vacuum daily using soft bristle attachments.

 Clean up spills and excessive liquids immediately.
 Damp mop as needed and use cleaners recommended for vinyl flooring.
 The use of residential steam mops on this product is allowed. Use at lowest power with a
suitable soft pad, and do not hold a steam mop on one spot for an extended period of time
(longer than 5 minutes). Refer to the steam mop's manufacturer instructions for proper
usage.
 Use proper floor protection devices such as felt protectors under furniture.
 Place a walk-off mat at outside entrances to reduce the amount of dirt brought into your
home. Do not use mats with a latex or rubber backing since these backings can cause
permanent discoloration.
 Do not use abrasive cleaners, bleach or wax to maintain the floor.
 Do not drag or slide heavy objects across the floor.