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FLAVOURVILLE
This page intentionally left blank
FLAVOURVILLE
LESLEY CHESTERMA N
 Copyright © ECW PRESS , 2003

Published by EC W PRESS
2120 Quee n Street East, Suite 200, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4E IEZ

All rights reserved. No part of this publication ma y be reproduced, stored

in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any process—electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise—without the prior
written permission o f the copyrigh t owner s and EC W PRESS.

NATIONAL LIBRAR Y OF CANAD A CATALOGUIN G I N PUBLICATIO N DAT A

Chesterman, Lesley, 1967-

Flavourville/Lesley Chesterman. - 200 4 ed., updated and rev.
Includes index .
ISBN 1-55022-598-7
1. Restaurants—Quebec (Province)—Montreal—Guidebooks.
I. Title.
TX9O7.5.C22M6 2003 647.95714'2 8 02003-902205- 6

Copy editor: Jodi Lewchuk

Design and typesetting: Guylaine Regimbald—Solo Design
Production: Emm a McKay
Printing: Transcontinental
Cover illustration: Roger Blachon

This book is set in Minion and Serlio

The publication ofFlavourville 2004 has been generously supported b y the

Canada Council, by the Government of Ontario through the Ontari o
Media Development Corporation's Ontario Boo k Initiative, by the Ontario
Arts Council, and by the Government of Canada through the Book
Publishing Industry Development Program. CanadS

Distribution:

CANADA
Jaguar Book Group, 100 Armstrong Avenue, Georgetown, Ontario L7G 554

UNITED STATE S
Independent Publishers Group , 814 North .Franklin Street,
Chicago, Illinois 60610

Europe: Turnaround Publisher Services, Unit 3, Olympia Trading Estate,

Coburg Road, Wood Green, London N22 6T2

AUSTRALIA AN D NEW ZEALAN D

Wakefield Press, i The Parade West (Box 2266),
Kent Town, South Australia 5071

PRINTED AN D BOUND IN CANAD A

ECW PRESS
ecwpress.com
To all the restaurateurs , chefs, sous-chefs, pastry chefs, commis ,
maitre d's, sommeliers, waiters and waitresses, busboys, and dish-
washers, as well as the farmers , butchers, bakers, cheese makers,
and othe r foo d supplier s wh o have made Montrea l one o f th e
world's great restaurant cities.
This page intentionally left blank
CONTENTS
Acknowledgements 1 3
Foreword 1 5
How to Use This Book 1 9

TOP TABLES
40 Westt Steakhouse and Ra w Bar 2 3
Anise 2 6
Area 2 9
Auberge Hatley 3 2
Au Pied de Cochon 3 5
Au Tournant de la Riviere 3 8
Bice 4 1
Bistro a Champlain 4 4
Bleu Raisin 4 8
Brunoise 5 1
Buona Notte 5 4
Cafe Massawippi 5 7
Cavalli 5 9
Chao Phraya 6 2
Chez Delmo 6 5
Chez L'Epicier 6 9
Chez Noeser 7 2
Chez Queux 7 5
Clementine 7 8
Cube 8 1
Da Emma 8 4
Delfrno 8 7
Derriere les Fagots 9 0
Desjardins 9 3
Ferreira Caf^ Trattoria 9 6
Gibbys 9 9
Globe 10 2
Guy & Dodo Morali 10 5
Holder 10 8
II Campari Centr e 11 1
8 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

IlCortile 11 4
IlMulino 11 7
Katsura 12 0
La Bastide 12 4
La Biche au Bois 12 7
La Cantina 13 0
La Chronique 13 3
La Colombe 13 6
La Gaudriole 13 9
Laloux 14 2
La Rapiere 14 5
L'Armoricain 14 8
L'Autre Saison 15 1
LaVielleHistoire 15 4
L'Eau a la Bouche 15 6
Le Beam 16 0
Le Caveau 16 2
Le Chrysantheme 16 6
Le Club des Pins 16 9
Le Gourmand 17 2
Le Grand Cafe 17 4
Le Latini 17 7
Le Lutetia 18 0
Le Margaux 18 3
Le Mas des Oliviers 18 5
Le Mitoyen 18 9
Le Muscadin 19 2
Le Paris 19 4
Le Passe-Partout 19 7
Le Piemontais 20 0
Le Puy du Fou 20 3
Le St. Augustin 20 6
Les Caprices de Nicolas 20 9
Les Chanterelles de Richelieu 21 3
Les Chenets 21 5
Les Chevres 21 9
Les Deux Charentes 22 2
Les Halles 22 5
 CONTENTS 9

Les Infideles 22 8
Les Remparts 23 0
Les Sarcelles 23 4
Les Trois Tilleuls 23 6
Le Surcouf 23 9
Le Taj 24 1
L'Express 24 4
Lezvos West 24 7
L'Habitant 25 0
L'Orchidee de Chine 25 2
Maestro S.V.P. 25 6
Med Grill 25 9
Mikado 26 1
Mikado Monkland 26 4
Milos 26 7
Moishe's Steak House 27 0
Nuances 27 3
Philippe de Lyon 27 6
Piccola Italia 27 9
Primadonna 28 1
Quelli Delia Notte 28 4
Queue de Cheval 28 7
Red Thai 29 0
Restaurant Bonaparte 29 3
Restaurant Christophe 29 6
Restaurant Le McHaffy 30 0
Restaurant Le St. Christophe 30 2
Restaurant Yoyo 30 5
Rib 'n Reef 30 8
Ristorante Bis 31 1
Ristorante Da Vinci 31 3
Ristorante Fran k 31 7
Ristorante Lucc a 32 0
Ristorante Prim o e t Secondo 32 2
Ristorante Sapori Pronto 32 5
Rosalie 32 8
Rugantino 33 1
Savannah 33 4
10 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

Sho-Dan 33 7
Sotto Sopra 34 0
Thai Grill 34 3
Tokyo Sukiyaki 34 6
Toque! 35 0
Treehouse 35 4
Troika 35 7
Vegera 36 1
Verses 36 4
Zen 36 7

CASUAL DINING
Alep 37 2
Au Bistro Gourmet 37 3
Au Petit Extra 37 4
Beauty's 37 5
Bistro on the Avenue 37 6
Cafe International 37 7
Cafe Melies 37 8
Chez Clo 37 9
Chine Toque 38 0
FondueMentale 38 1
Gandhi 38 2
Isakaya 38 3
La Paryse 38 4
La Raclette 38 5
La Spaghettata 38 6
Le Bistingo 38 7
Le Continental 38 8
Le Grain de Sel 38 9
Le Jardin de Panos 39 0
Le Maistre 39 1
Le Paris Beurre 39 2
Le Pegase 39 3
Le Poisson Roug e 39 4
Le P'tit Plateau 39 5
Les Deux Chefs 39 6
 CONTENTS 1 1

Le Vintage 39 7
Monkland Tavern 39 8
Pizzeria Napolitana 39 9
Roberto 40 0
Rude Nam 40 1
Schwartz's 40 2
Scola Pasta 40 3
Sofia 40 4
Souvenirs d'Indochine 40 5
Soy 40 6
Stash Cafe 40 7
Vents du Sud 40 8

Food Index 40 9
Geographical Index 41 3
This page intentionally left blank
 13

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thanks to the team at ECW Press, especially my publisher, Robert
Lecker, an d editor , Jod i Lewchuk, a s well as my editors a t th e
Montreal Gazette, David Walker and Michael Shenker.

Thanks also to Julian Armstrong for her encouragement and kind

words; Anthony Chesterman fo r hi s harsh bu t lovin g criticism;
Sylvia Chesterman an d Melinda Varga for their scintillating din -
nertime company; and Paul Globus for correcting my grammar
and providing the "mot juste " when the "mot juste " escaped me.

Special thanks to Bertrand and Max Bazin, the men in my life, for
holding down the fort while I was out feasting on foie gras.

I owe a big debt of gratitude as well to all my readers at the Mon-

treal Gazette and those lovers of fine dinin g who made the firs t
Flavourville such a success.
This page intentionally left blank
FOREWORD
With ove r 5,00 0 establishments rangin g fro m forma l Frenc h t o
the laid-back , inexpensive, bring-your-own-wine variety, Mon-
treal's restaurant scen e is booming. Yet our reputatio n a s one of
North America's gourmet capital s hardl y capture s th e dept h o f
the culinar y scene. This i s the cit y know n th e worl d ove r fo r
smoked meat, bagels, and poutine. But that's only the beginning.
Montreal als o boasts a wide variety of locally produced luxur y
foodstuffs, suc h as raw-milk cheeses, foie gras, duck, venison, iced
cider, and mapl e syrup. It's th e developmen t o f these products ,
coupled wit h thei r exploitatio n b y innovative loca l chef s tha t
makes our s suc h a n importan t an d uniqu e Nort h America n
restaurant city .
Although restaurants are not restricted to any one area of the
island city, there are neighbourhood cluster s where Montrealers
tend to gravitate: Little Italy for its trattorias an d open-ai r mar -
kets, Rue St. Denis for its sophisticated bistros and sidewalk cafes,
and Boulevar d St. Laurent—also know n a s the Main—fo r it s
dozens of trendy hot spots . Two of the mos t active scenes are to
be found on the Plateau Mont Royal and the Gay Village, where a
new breed o f bistr o an d boutiqu e restauran t i s catering t o a
young and fashionabl e crowd. Outremont stil l lays claim to th e
richest scen e outside o f the cit y centre, and Ol d Montrea l ha s
emerged fro m th e shadow s t o tak e a well-deserved place in th e
spotlight.
Faced with the task of reviewing the city' s restaurants, I have
approached it as a chance to provide a service for the reader. I want
to let you know what's going on out there, and which restaurants
are worth adding to your list of favourites.
Unlike something alway s available in its original state ( a film
or a book), a restaurant i s an ever-evolvin g enterprise . Tal k to
restaurateurs and they'll tell you about their new sous-chef, their
lunch specials, the latest additions to their wine lists, or even the
restaurants they recently dined at in New York.
16 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

One could argue that a restaurant review is dated the minute

it's published . Perhaps . My goal, however, is to offe r yo u a brief
encounter with each establishment, one that affects all the senses:
the look of the decor at Les Chevres, a plate presentation at Toque1!,
the energy of a room like L'Express, the smell of mussels marinara
at Le Latini, the tast e of a vanilla-pineapple parfait a t Le Lute'tia,
or the mouth feel of the crusty pain rustique at Le Passe-Partout.
This guide offer s a compilation o f restaurants rated goo d to
extraordinary at the time they were visited. It's more about qual-
ity than quantity. The establishments included here are the ones I
believe are worth recommending. There are any number of rea-
sons why a restaurant is not include d in this book: out o f busi-
ness, too new to make the publication deadline, still finding its way
on the city scene, or going through a renovation or transition.
In the category of casuaJ restaurants, only thirty-seven are in-
cluded. Thi s i s not intende d a s a comprehensiv e listing by any
means. Rather, it's an overview of some of the places I enjoy when
I want to spend less.
Montreal is a city bursting with bright culinary ideas, fascinat-
ing chefs, and divers e tastes— a true cit y of flavours (henc e the
name of this guide). I invite you to peruse these pages when con-
templating a night of celebration or indulgence, a change of pace,
or simply a meal away from your own kitchen. A restaurant out-
ing should alway s be special, a night to remember, and in Mon-
treal you'll seldom find yourself without option s or at the poin t
where you've tried everything that's out there.
For this , the secon d edition o f Flavourville, you'll fin d tw o
strong trends emerging on the Montreal scene: the appearance of
the show y restaurant, best typified b y establishments suc h as 40
Westt an d Cavalli , and th e increasin g numbe r o f chef-owned
restaurants, such as Les Chevres, Brunoise, and Restaurant Chris-
tophe, located i n less fashionable neighbourhoods. An d in tha t
interesting worl d betwee n thos e tw o genre s come restaurant s
such as Outremont's exquisite Anise, downtown's bustling bistro
Rosalie, and the Plateau's sophisticated Savannah.
 FOREWORD 1 7

Now is the best of times, a belle epoque, to discover Montreal

restaurants. After readin g through these pages, I hope you'll expe-
rience— as I did—all the passion and hard work our city's pro-
ducers, chefs, pastry chefs, kitche n staffs, an d wait staffs dedicate
to their profession.
Happy restaurant hopping. And, as we say in Montreal, Bon
appetit!
This page intentionally left blank
 19

HOW T O US E
THIS BOO K
RATING SYSTEMS

Note that all restaurants featured here were visited by the autho r
anonymously. All food, wine, an d service s were paid fo r i n full .
Any interviews wit h restauran t managemen t o r staf f wer e con -
ducted afte r th e meals and service s had been appraised. Rating s
take food, ambience, service, and price into consideration. Men u
items and prices are subject to change.

The star ratings:

Good
Good, verging on excellen t
Excellent
Excellent, verging on extraordinar y
Extraordinary (one of the best)

The price ratings:

Inexpensive, most main course s priced

under $10
Moderate, $10-$20
Expensive, $20-$35
Very expensive, $35+
20 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

REVIEW COMPONENTS

IN TH E KITCHEN • Indicates who' s runnin g th e sho w behind

the scenes. If there is no head chef, none is mentioned.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Montreal has become an increas-

ingly casual dining-out city. If fancy dress is called for, it will be
mentioned here. Keep in mind, however, that though jackets are
rarely required, jeans, sweatpants, baseball caps, shorts, and run-
ning shoes are to be avoided in the majority of the city's restau -
rants.

WINE LIS T • Ageneral ide a o f selection and pric e is provided

here.

DON'T MISS • The dishes listed include favourite s tasted a t th e

time of the author's visit. Of course, menu item s may vary, but
these dishes will give you a sense of the kitchen's strengths (i f the
duck magre t with wild mushrooms wa s good last year, chances
are the duck with red berries will be a winner this year).

WORDS TO THE WISE • Look here for insider tip s and genera l
reflections on the restaurant's strength s and weaknesses.

CARDS • "Major cards" means that at least Visa and MasterCar d

are accepted .
TOP TABLE S
This page intentionally left blank
 TOP TABLES

1/2 $$$$ STEAK/SEAFOOD

4O WEST T
STEAKHOUSE
AND RA W BAR
SNAPSHOT • Luxury may be a fading genre on Montreal's fine-
dining scene, but at 40 Westt it's taken to the hilt. Over 400 diners
can b e accommodate d i n th e variou s dinin g rooms , privat e
rooms, and bar. The menu revels in the modern steak house for-
mula, offerin g plent y o f fres h seafoo d an d fish , standby s lik e
shrimp cocktai l an d Caesa r salad, a large choice o f sid e dishes,
and a focused selection of 10- to 14-day-ol d USDA Choice Black
Angus Colorado beef , with cuts ranging in size from a n 8-ounce
filet mignon to a 30-ounce porterhouse for two. Despite its loca-
tion in a strip mall off the T-Can, ostentation is the name of the
game at 40 Westt. Even the mos t jaded diner is sure to exi t this
glitzy restaurant a little star-struck.

THE BI G PICTURE » Remember J . R . Ewing , the oi l man /

rancher/villain immortalized in the deeply decadent eighties tele-
vision drama Dallas? With his 2-foot-wide cowboy hat, snakeskin
boots, loaded wallet, and Sue Ellen, his trophy wife who tended to
drown her sorrows in Martinis, J. R. was larger than life .
J. R. is not th e kind of fellow you would expect to see nibbling
grilled vegetables at on e o f those bring-your-own-win e Platea u
eateries. A carnivore to the core, this character belongs in a steak
house. And not just any steak house, but a brash steak house with
choice sirloin , bold re d wines , comely waitresses, and ceiling s
high enough to accommodate that Stetson. The Ewing clan would
feel right at home at 40 Westt.
Appetizers includ e a handful o f origina l dishe s suc h a s a
grilled-shrimp cocktai l serve d alongside sautee d spinac h en -
hanced with roaste d garli c and a ramekin o f garlic mayonnaise
(a'ioli). The thre e large prawns are pudgy , meaty, and resilient .
24 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

Every bite's a treat, especially when enlivened with the tangy may-
onnaise. The spinach is also a winner, though the portion siz e is
far to o generous to balance the amount of shrimp.
Another excellen t choic e i s the bee f tartare . Made o f finel y
minced file t migno n mixe d wit h chive s an d a healthy dos e of
Tabasco, this raw meat "cake" served on a bed o f thin fries offer s
melting bites, sparks of spice, and an overriding richness.
The Caesa r salad certainly fits the setting . Describe d o n th e
menu as "our famous" and served tableside fro m a wooden bowl,
it consists of large romaine leaves, five oversized croutons, an d a
sprinkling o f Parmesan. Thoug h th e unmanageabl e leaf siz e is
easily remedied wit h knif e an d fork , th e block-siz e croutons —
too bi g fo r a mouthful, too fir m fo r cutting—see m mor e lik e
decoration. An d though cream y and wel l portioned, th e vinai -
grette lacks an acidic element to counter the cheese and oil in the
dressing.
Main courses include grilled black sea bass, a rack of Rimouski
lamb, and a "Cowboy Cut" 20-ounce rib steak. The sea bass, sold
by the pound, arrives on a long thin plate with a side of wild rice
pilaf. The 2-poun d portio n o f fish is superb: delicate , sweetly
flavoured, an d mois t bu t firm . Unfortunately , it' s als o poorl y
boned an d th e accompanyin g ric e is greasy—two seriou s fau x
pas considering the whopping $53 price.
Far better is the lamb, a generous rack served with a dollop of
mashed potatoes, golf ball-size roasted shallots , an d an intens e
port sauce. The meat is beautiful, full-flavoured, and medium-rare.
The steaks, by contrast, can be a hit-or-miss affair. On a recent
visit m y rib stea k was tender, cooke d t o th e requeste d charre d
rare, and generous in size without being too fatty. What it lacked,
however, was that meaty/minera l flavou r stea k lover s relish i n
aged beef. Despite my attempts t o enliven the taste with salt, the
flavour still came up short. This maybe a matter of one dull steak
or a lack of fine-tuning in the aging process.
Dessert arrives at the table on a trolley along with a fine selec-
tion o f desser t wine s an d ports . If you fanc y somethin g sweet,
consider sharing, as potions are colossal. Notable is the authentic
New York-style strawberr y cheesecake, the appl e crumble, an d
the rich hot chocolate tourte served with ice cream.
 TOP TABLE S 2 5

Service is another of this restaurant's strengths. The charming

and confident wait staff wiE eagerly guide you through the menu
and help you select a wine. Waits between courses are reasonable,
and wine and water glasses are filled without fail .

IN TH E KITCHE N • Chef s Stephan o Hinoporo s an d Terr y

Morentzos.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • There are three dining rooms on

the left-han d side of the entrance , and a raw bar crowde d wit h
beautiful peopl e to the right. Potted palm s frame dark-panelle d
archways laden with wine bottles. The ceilings are at least 1 5 feet
high, and the walls are either brick, stone, or painted a rich colour
of cream. Thick-slated black wooden shutters are hung above the
black leathe r banquettes, whic h ar e topped with win e bottles ,
mostly magnums.
Everything on th e tabl e i s emblazoned wit h the restaurant' s
logo, the wine glasses are bulbous and heavy , and th e linens are
bright white and thick. The overall sense is that of a large American
hotel restaurant or an extravagant cruise ship, like the Titanic.

WINE LIST • 40 Westt's wine lis t i s a pleasure to peruse . With

over 10 0 well-chosen wine s unde r $5 0 and a good selectio n o f
wines by the glass , it's by far one of the mos t customer-friendly
lists you're likely to encounter. Splurgers and oenophiles are sure
to appreciate the second wine list, which offers mor e prestigious
and mature selections.

DON'T MISS • The steak tartare, the grilled-shrimp cocktail , the

lamb, and the cheesecake.

WORDS TO THE WISE • Weaknesses with th e foo d aside , it's

nice to see a restaurant this swanky taking a chance in the sub -
urbs. Be warned: Market prices for fresh fish and seafood can sky-
rocket. Also, if you can't garner a reservation on your first try, it's
worth a second attempt close r to mealtime.
26 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

40 WESTT STEAKHOUSE AND RAW BAR

Mega-centre, 230 5 Transcanada (exit 53, Boulevard des Sources)
Location: Pointe Claire
Telephone: (514) 428-9378
Web site: www.40westt.com
Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-2:30 P.M., Monday to Friday; dinner,
5:30 P.M.- 10:30 P.M., Monday to Wednesday, and 5:30 P.M.-
11:30 P.M., Thursday to Saturday
Wheelchair access: Yes
Reservations: Essential
Cards: All major cards
Price range: Starters, $10-$20 (seafood priced by the pound);
main courses, $24-$38 (fresh fish priced by the pound);
desserts, $8-$15

1/2 sss FRENCH

ANISE
SNAPSHOT • Dinner at Anise is a thing of beauty. This impossi -
bly chic, 50-seat restaurant is one of Avenue Laurier's gems. Chef
and co-owner Racha Bassoul is a self-taught cook who claims her
style of cuisine du marche is influenced by her many travels. Her
dishes featur e pomegranates , pistachios , dates , tomatillos , an d
tamarind, and spices like cumin, turmeric, and saffron—sensua l
ingredients all too rare on Montreal's fine-dining scene. Not only
is this relatively young enterprise better than ever, but it is now on
a par with Montreal's best.

THE BIG PICTURE • Reading through Anise's menu, one senses

a wonderful melange of French and Middle Eastern flavours. Chef
and partne r Rach a Bassoul' s palette o f ingredients reflect s he r
Lebanese roots. This is fusion a t its finest: modern, pared-down ,
and well balanced.
To best sampl e a wide variety of dishes, consider orderin g a
tasting menu paired with wines by the glass. Bassoul's cuisine is
 TOP TABLE S 2 7

one of small portions and intense flavours, which fits this format
perfectly.
On a recent visit, the meal starts with a wonderful sou p du o
served with toasted pita triangles. The first bowl contains a carrot
potage enhance d wit h mandari n oil , cumin, and turmeric . Th e
other is made with peas and pistachios, its flavour enhancers being
mint and parsley oil. The soups have the ideal spoon-coating tex -
ture, and the tastes are pure and harmonious .
Next up, two vegetarian dishes: a three-layer tower of ratatouille
stacked between socc a tuiles, and a crisp nugget o f Feta-stuffe d
falafel serve d with mesclu n an d tahin i sauce . The ratatouill e i s
a delicate rendition o f this Provencal classic, and the socca tuiles
are a n inspired—an d authentic—partner . This dis h an d th e
falafel ar e miles apart. The falafe l i s earthy, with its heavy texture
brought to life by the salty cheese and nutty tahini.
The complexit y o f flavou r increase s with ever y course. A
telling exampl e i s the grille d octopu s serve d wit h caramelize d
cipollini onions , drie d yello w tomatoes, gree n olives , and a red
lentil puree spiced with cumin. The octopus is charred and chewy
on the outside, and tender within. The accompaniments add the
requisite brightness, richness, and acidity.
Other examples include the kebbeh nayeh (lamb tartare) and
the surf and turf Anise. The tartare is a classic in Middle Eastern
cuisine. Shaped into a quenelle and mixed with cracked wheat and
fresh mint, it's a triumph of flavour and texture.
The surf and turf consists of a small stack of scallops and foi e
gras set atop a bed of black rice. There's a lot going on here but i t
works, with the foie gras taking the lead and the other ingredients
falling into line. And just when you think it tastes like any old lux-
ury dish, out comes the accompanying coconut and curry sauce to
supply a few sparks.
Throughout th e meal , you're sur e to be awed by the elegan t
plate presentations—not to mention the plates themselves. Course
after cours e arrives on colourfu l glas s plates or custom-designe d
crockery, the most charming being a bowl meant fo r the tiniest
scoop of lavender sorbet.
The matte, stone-coloured plat e used for the chees e course is
also impressive , a s is its contents : a portion o f local cheese— a
28 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

Chaput goat' s chees e or a slic e o f Mignero n d e Charlevoix —

served with mesclun and a phyllo date-and-nut turnover.
Desserts includ e tw o warm , cigarette-shaped nem s stuffe d
with chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio. Serve d alongside is a
quenelle of lavender ice cream, which rounds off the meal on the
right aromatic (yet not too sweet) note. Mignardises include nou-
gat squares sandwiched with dried apricots , and crumbl y sugar-
coated butter cookies .
Service is friendly and flawless .

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Racha Bassoul.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor, conceived over three

floors b y designer Jean-Pierr e Viau, remains a study in muted
grandeur. The high banquettes an d padded chairs are covered in
crinkly raspberry chenille. There's a grand staircas e to th e left ,
and towering walls the colour o f buttermilk ar e embedded with
wavy sconces that pop up here and there like upturned cups on a
bustier.

WINE LIST • Anise's wine list is a treasure trove of interesting bot-

tles, with many fine choices under $50. Wine recommendations
are solid, and there's an excellent choice of half bottles and wines
by the glass.

DON'T MISS • The falafel, the octopus, the lamb tartare, the scal-
lops with foi e gras , the chees e course, and th e nem s filled with
chocolate, mint, honey, and pistachio.

WORDS TO THE WISE • Chef Bassoul and partne r Remy Jahel

have taken this establishment into a realm of elegance largely ab-
sent in most Montreal restaiurants. From the choice of ingredients
and the intensity of flavours to the artistry of the menu and the
striking flower arrangements, everything here is in good taste. All
this comes at a price, of course, so be prepared to spend, spend,
and spend. And remember that this is a nonsmoking restaurant.
 TOP TABLE S 2 9

ANISE
104 Avenue Laurier West (near St. Urbain)
Location: Outremont/Mile End
Telephone: (514) 276-6999
Web site: www.anise.ca
Open: 6 P.M.- 10 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday
Wheelchair access: Yes
Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environment
Cards: All major cards
Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$45;
desserts, $10

1/2 $$S CONTEMPORARY

AREA
SNAPSHOT • Area i s a small, 38-sea t establishmen t locate d i n
the heart of Montreal's increasingly fashionable Gay Village. Chef
Ian Perreault and partner Denis Levesque have garnered nothing
but raves for their restaurant's stylish decor and innovative cuisine,
proving yet again that chef-owned restaurants offer th e most con-
fident cuisin e an d persona l dinin g experiences . I n thi s youn g
chef's hands , cabbag e salads taste elegant , pork chop s ar e mor e
toothsome than veal chops, and desserts feel like a necessity rather
than a n indulgence. Prices have increased steadil y over the pas t
few years , but considerin g th e qualit y o f ingredients, the hik e is
justified.

THE BIG PICTURE * Is a chef an artist or merely a skilled man-

ual worker? One could argu e that burger flipping requires a cer-
tain leve l o f skill. Bu t there ar e mile s betwee n th e short-orde r
cook and the experienced chef. Even among the ranks of the pros,
there's a wide range of expertise. Compare culinary professionals
to musicians. The differences between a commis, a sous-chef, and
30 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

a chef de cuisine are comparable to those between a section player

in the Montreal Symphony Orchestra, the concert master, and the
conductor.
A successful che f develops a signature style, leading us to see
food in a new light, be it through interesting flavour combinations,
original plate presentations, or a fresh take on the classics. Case in
point is chef Ian Perreault of Area.
Area's menu is eclectic. Although many dishes could be placed
in that most risk y of culinary categories, fusion , it turns ou t th e
exotic touches in chef Perreault's cuisine are subtle.
Two of the cold starters—crunchy Savoy cabbage with arugula,
apples, an d smoke d duck , an d fres h artichok e wit h marinate d
calamari and toaste d hazelnuts—ar e made wit h original , well-
matched ingredients . A hot an d col d sala d consistin g o f confi t
of quai l with baby potatoes dresse d with garlic , olive oil, sel de
Guerande, and whit e balsamic vinega r reduction is , however, a
miss. The medley sounds promising, but the dish is dominated by
mealy, white-fleshed potatoes .
The deep-frie d sweetbread s coated i n a gingerbread-crum b
crust ar e good fun. Served with a hot quinc e dipping jelly, every
morsel is crisp, melting, spicy, and fruity—the most exciting nug-
gets around. Curried tempura tiger prawns served in a gold-napkin-
lined bamboo steamer basket along with a ramekin of cool pepper-
mango salsa are the ideal choice for those who enjoy their food on
the spicy side. Also irresistible is a velvety butternut squash soup,
tinged with nutmeg and served with sauteed snails and a dribble
of sesame oil.
Like s o many young chefs , Perreaul t appear s to b e a garde -
manger specialist who excels in the realm of smaller portions. Proof
is the mai n courses , where he occasionall y stumbles . Th e pan-
seared rib steak paired with a cupful of sweet balsamic sauce, baby
bok choy , and asparagu s is tough an d ha s little flavour . A crisp-
skinned chicken leg stuffed wit h pistachio paste is quite nice, but
it's served with a dollop of faerbed mashed potatoes large enough
to feed a family of four. Also tryin g too hard is a stew of Ricotta-
filled ravioli, shredded confi t o f duck , mushrooms, asparagus ,
truffle oil, and Parmesan. Not only is there way too much going on
here, but also all the elements are soaked in a thick, rich meat sauce.
 TOP TABLE S 3 1

More reasonabl y sized an d wit h flavour s mor e vibran t i s a

smoked and grilled pork chop serve d with herbed mashed pota -
toes studded with bacon and diced, saut£ed celery root. Also out-
standing i s the grille d salmo n filet , whic h i s fresh, moist , an d
enhanced with a candied ginger cream sauce sprinkled with black
sesame seeds.
Desserts ar e another o f Area's fortes. Both the berry clafouti s
and the oven-baked pineapple seasone d with cinnamon an d cof-
fee bean s are served with luscious homemade vanill a ic e cream.
The lemon meringu e tar t i s a revelation. Assembled to order, i t
offers a delicate tart shell , a potent lemo n curd , an d a cloud of
Italian meringue.

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and co-owner Ian Perreault.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The scene is subdued and sophis-

ticated, with groov y tunes and chattering bilingual patron s pro -
viding a pleasant hum in the background. The brick walls are lined
with slim horizontal mirrors. Other smart features include gauzy
white drapes , fresh flowe r arrangements , an d a large, goldfish -
filled aquarium. It's all quite Zen, chic, and fabulous.

WINE LIST • The wine list is short, with nicely varied and well-
priced bottles , including Chablis , Haute s C6tes-de-Beaune , an d
Valpolicella priced at under $40.

DON'T MISS • The tempura shrimp , th e frie d sweetbreads , the

grilled por k chop , an d th e desserts—especially , when available ,
the lemon meringue tart.

WORDS TO THE WISE • Three years is an eternity in the life of a

young chef, and Perrault' s styl e has evolved since he opened th e
restaurant a t age 25. Prices have increased an d ar e accompanie d
by a greater emphasis on luxury ingredients and intricate flavour
combinations. Some of Perrault's dishes of late seem to favour in -
novation ove r satisfaction , so unles s you'r e u p fo r som e od d
flavour combinations, stic k to the simplest dishes.
32 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

AREA
1429 Rue Amherst (near Ste. Catherine)
Location: East of city centre, in the Gay Village
Telephone: (514 ) 890-669 1
Web site: www.rest-area.qc.ca
Open: Lunch, 11:30 A.M.-1:30 P.M., Tuesday to Friday;
dinner, 6 P.M.- 10:45 P.M., Tuesday to Saturday
Wheelchair access : Yes
Reservations: Essential
Cards: All major cards
Price range: Starters, $9-$19; main courses, $22-$36;
desserts, $8

$SS$ FRENCH

AUBERGE HATLE Y
SNAPSHOT • Window boxes cascading with flowers and a breath-
taking view of Lak e Massawippi awai t diners a t thi s acclaime d
Relais & Chateau country inn located in North Hatley, a one-and-
a-half-hour drive from downtown Montreal. The modern French
cuisine of chef Alain Labrie features many fresh herbs and greens,
which are grown in the on-site greenhouses. Wine is taken seriously
at Auberge Hatley. Service, though formal, could not be more hos-
pitable. Though meal prices tend to run high, few restaurants offer
a gourmet experience of this calibre.

THE BIG PICTURE • There ar e good restaurant s an d ther e are

great restaurants. Yo u can fin d grea t food in a good restaurant,
but greatness is about more than just what's on the plate. The op-
eration mus t rat e top marks on all counts: a beautiful setting, a
warm ambience , super b service, impeccable tableware, a n out -
standing cellar, and inventive, seasonal cuisine that makes use of
the best local ingredients. Auberge Hatley is that kind of place.
How could on e ever go back to casua l dining after watchin g
tuxedoed waiters move quietly around th e well-spaced tables in
 TOP TABLE S 3 3

the auberge' s elegan t dinin g room ? Crust y roll s fro m a basket

containing locally baked bread grace every table. Minutes after ar -
riving, diners are treated to an amuse-bouche made of eggplant,
zucchini slices, and grilled goat's cheese. This simple palate teaser,
dressed with a pungent basil oil, starts the meal off o n the highest
of notes.
Cold starters include a simple goat's cheese salad with tomato
confit an d wintercress, and a duck and foie gras ballotin with a
sweet an d spic y balsamic vinaigrette. Bot h ar e accompanied b y
lovely greenhouse lettuces, including baby watercress, poiree, and
arugula grow n in the auberge' s nearby commercial greenhouse ,
Domaine de la Cressonniere.
The second course offers scallops with grapefruit beurre blanc,
and a salmon tartare with Oscietra caviar and sour cream. The fiv e
seared scallops, topped with a sprinkling of oven-dried orange zest,
are arranged in a circle around a mound o f sauteed julienne of
leek. The tangy grapefruit butte r sauc e is the perfec t foi l fo r th e
tender, sweet scallops.
Another excellen t starter i s a mushroom pithivier s with Ma-
deira sauce. Although the puff pastry is heavier than expected, the
torte is packed with a variety of delicious wild mushroom s an d
served on a large pool of Madeira sauce.
Main courses arrive covered with silve r domes, which are re-
moved with panache, revealing beautifully presented plates . Two
worth sampling are tournedos o f duck magret with foie gras and
orange sauce, and grilled beef tenderloin with wild mushroom jus.
Topped with a piece of caramelized foie gras* the tender slices
of duck are served with al dente green beans and sautee d mush-
rooms and potatoes. The beef filet's accompaniments include fresh
peas, mushrooms, an d sof t round s o f beef marrow. The mush -
room sauce , carefull y spoone d aroun d th e meat a t th e table , is
light and full flavoured .
As dinner reaches the three-hour mark , the waiter arrives with
a selection of over a dozen local and imported raw-milk cheeses,
including a 10-year-old Lac St. Jean Cheddar, a Pouligny St. Pierre
goat's cheese, a Brie de Meaux, and a Reblochon.
Desserts at Auberge Hatley are as elegant as the surroundings .
A citru s plat e comprise d o f lime sherbet , lemon mousse , an d
34 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

lemon bal m crem e anglaise is light an d refreshing—th e perfec t

end to a wonderful meal .

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Alain Labrie.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • This restaurant's formalit y belies

its hospitable feel . The pale yellow room is simple and elegantl y
decorated. Throug h tal l windows there' s a breathtaking view of
Lake Massawippi as well as elaborate gardens and th e surround-
ing hills. Jackets are required at dinner.

WINE LIST • The win e list consist s o f page after pag e of fairl y
priced, predominantly French wines. Unless you're an expert, leave
the choosing to one of the sommeliers, who will not only arrive at
your table with ful l knowledge of your order, but also might sur-
prise you by recommending a less expensive bottle than you had
planned on.

DON'T MISS • The salads, the seared scallops, the duck foie gras,
the bee f tenderloi n with wild mushroom jus, and th e chees e
course.

WORDS TO THE WISE • A meal at Auberge Hatley is to die for.

It's also to pay for. The total cost for two can top $300. Is it worth
it? Absolutely—not only for the food, but also for the experience .

AUBERGE HATLE Y
325 Chemin Virgin
Location: North Hatley
Telephone: 1-800-336-2451, or (819) 842-2451
Web site: www.aubergehatley.com
Open: Lunch (May to September), noon-2 P.M., daily;
dinner, 6 P.M.-9 P.M., Monday to Sunday
Wheelchair access: Yes
Reservations: Recommended
Cards: Major cards
Price range: Three set menus, $58, $75, and $105; three-course
table d'h6te menu, $58
 TOP TABLE S 3 5

SS FRENCH/QUEBECOIS

AU PIE D D E
COCHON
SNAPSHOT • Au Pied de Cochon is a restaurant with few preten-
sions. Artistic-plate-presentation seekers , "heart smart" eaters, and
vegetarians be damned. Thi s is a place for charcuterie , foie gras,
venison chops, lamb shanks, and th e kind o f hearty French far e
that chefs themselve s enjo y afte r a n early-mornin g excursio n t o
the market, when a bowl of steaming onion soup and a glass of
inky Crozes-Hermitage hit the spot better than a croissant an d a
cafe" au lait. Chef Martin Picard's latest folly is updating French-
Canadian classic s suc h a s poutine an d poudin g chomeur . Thi s
exciting bistro/brasserie, like its owner (and the crowd, consisting
of the Plateau's hippest thirty- an d fortysomethings), has charac-
ter—a quality all too rare on today's restaurant scene.

THE BIG PICTURE • Like his local English counterpart, Glob e

and Rosali e chef Davi d McMillan , Marti n Picar d i s often con -
sidered a culinary enfant terrible : a passionate an d opinionate d
young che f wh o like s thing s don e hi s way, favouring artisana l
meats and organic produce over standard ingredients, and inject-
ing a large dose of personalit y into ever y dish. Picar d ha s lon g
been acclaime d fo r hi s bol d tak e o n souther n Frenc h cuisine ,
serving whole fish and chickens baked in a salt crust, lamb shanks
slow-cooked i n fa t (confit) , an d duc k magrets pile d hig h wit h
wild mushrooms. Hot foie gras enhanced with lavender honey or
chocolate was considered his signature dish .
You'll find such unusual dishes, and plenty of new ones, at his
latest restaurant—al l reasonabl y priced unde r $20 . Begin you r
meal with oreilles de crisse, half-moon-shaped slices of deep-fried
lard that are dry, supercrisp, and cut into bite-size pieces far more
appealing tha n th e larg e cabane-a-sucre variety. Following tha t
bit o f indulgence , conside r th e onio n sou p filled with jus t th e
right amoun t o f cheese , croutons, an d caramelize d onions , all
36 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

suspended in a robust beef broth. The cochonailles plate includes

a fine assortment of pork charcuterie made in-house. My preferred
starter is a simple plate of gently flavoured, thinly sliced smoked
ham (credite d to a certain Marcel Picard, a farmer fro m L'Estrie
and no relation to the chef) served with croutons doused with pep-
pery virgin olive oil.
Main course s include a n Alsatian choucroute consistin g o f
tangy fermented cabbage, Strasbourg sausage, baked ham, and salt
pork. The ragout de pattes de cochon is not the usual sauce-heavy
stew but a n assembly of small meatballs an d vegetable s topped
with a crisp square of breaded, deep-fried—fatty an d gelatinous
—pig's feet meat .
If you're an adventurous gourmand , don't miss the pig's fee t
braised in maple syrup or Guinness, the homemade sausages, the
braised lamb shank, and the velvety blood pudding (boudin). An-
other of my favourites is the whimsical foie gras hamburger. In-
stead of the expected beef patty with a sliver of foie gras, Picard
offers a slab of it, solo, sauteed and sandwiched in a golden chal-
lah bun. Add to that a handful of mesclun, tomato, aged Cheddar,
wild mushrooms , an d onio n compot e mixe d wit h duc k stock,
and you have the most luxurious lowbrow dish in the city.
In summer, the menu lightens up considerably, with fresh fish
and seafood—sourced out by Picard and his staff each spring—
replacing all those braised meats.
For dessert there's a classic creme brulee, a sugar pie for two,
pouding chomeur, and a velvety baked apple served atop a butter-
soaked slic e of pain rustique . If Ros e Drummond strawberries
are available, try them with a scoop of the homemade vanilla ice
cream.

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Martin Picard.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • Au Pied d e Cochon' s origina l

decor is one of its strengths. Napkin rings, menus, and business
cards are al l emblazoned with a n amusin g cartoon o f the chef ,
frying pan in hand, riding a smiling pig. Picard was lucky enough
to score a locale on one of the city's most popular restaurant strips
 TOP TABLE S 3 7

that once housed a pizzeria, and he puts it s wood-burning ove n

to good use. Large loaves of country bread are sliced on a butcher's
block next to a refrigerated takeout counter fille d with duck con-
fit, tourtieres , and foi e gra s terrines. Othe r origina l touches in -
clude numbere d woo d tables , mirrore d walls , an d a n ope n
kitchen filled with chefs wearing funky flopp y hats and T-shirts .

WINE LIST • The wine list is filled wit h a smartly chosen selec -
tion o f international wine s priced betwee n $2 8 and $167 , with
two-thirds of the bottles costing less than $55. Au Pied de Cochon
may be Avenue Duluth's only licensed restaurant, but with prices
like these, you won't miss bringing your own.

DON'T MISS • The oreilles de crisse, the cochonailles plate , the

ragout de pattes de cochon, the braised lamb shank, the foie gras
hamburger, th e seafood platter, th e pouding chomeur , the sugar
pie, and the Rose Drummond strawberries .

WORDS TO THE WISE • Forget working up an appetite by spend-

ing an hour hunting for that elusive parking spot on the Plateau.
Taking a cab or walking is your best bet. Au Pied d e Cochon i s a
nonsmoking restaurant. As it says on the menu, "The onl y smok-
ing permitted her e is that of salmons and hams. "

AU PIED DE COCHO N
536 Avenue Duluth West (near Berri)
Location: St. Denis/Plateau Mont Royal
Telephone: (514) 281-1114
Web site: www.aupieddecochon.ca
Open: 5 P.M.-midnight, Tuesday to Sunday
Wheelchair access: Yes
Reservations: Recommended; nonsmoking environmen t
Cards: Major cards
Price range: Starters, $5-$18; main courses, $11.50-$20;
desserts, $4.75-$8
38 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMAN

sss tfrEMCH

AU TOURNAN T
DE L A RIVIER E
SNAPSHOT • A mere 1 0 minutes from th e Champlain Bridge,
Carignan's finest restaurant offers classic French food in a contem-
porary countr y setting. Wild mushroo m dishe s and meat s are
standouts. Also a cut above is the impressive wine list and solici -
tous service. The tranquil atmosphere picks up on weekends and
at Sunday brunch, when reservations are essential.

THE BIG PICTURE • Au Tournant de la Riviere is a very French

restaurant. Reading through th e menu, one doesn't ge t the sense
that this establishment follows the trend towards market cuisine,
as few of the selections (including dessert) are particularly seasonal.
The menu offers either an elaborate multicourse tasting menu,
or a four-course table d'hdt e that includes soup, starter, mai n
course, and dessert. Although there are a number of luxury ingre-
dients liste d (foi e gras , wild mushrooms , duck , lobster , sweet-
breads), prices are reasonable.
Service is one of the restaurant's drawing cards. Not only are
the waitresses courteous, but the y also know the menu and wine
list inside out, and they take conspicuous pride in their work.
The soup s offere d includ e fis h soup , cucumbe r vichyssois e
with shrimp, and minestrone. Th e fis h soup—enhance d with a
generous dose of tomato an d serve d with th e requisit e saffron -
filled, garlicky rouille and grated cheese—is pleasant and assertive,
but too thick to satisfy. Unable to absorb even a single drop of this
potage, the croutons si t on the surfac e instead o f slowly sinking
through the liquid.
The vichyssoise, by contrast, is light, cream y without bein g
cloying, and refreshing. Topped with a bunch o f baby coriander
sprouts, its only off note is the half-dozen utterly tasteless Matane
shrimp. The minestrone is also delicious. The robust chicken broth
is filled with a mace'doine of fresh vegetables, and the flavour ac-
 TOP TABLE S 3 9

cent comes from a dollop of basil-laden pistou (the French equiv-

alent of—yo u guesse d it—pesto). Ever y spoonfu l offer s clear ,
summery flavours. Nice.
Appetizers turn up hits and misses. One of the best is a flaky
tart covere d wit h saute'e d leeks , goat' s cheese , and raisins . Jus t
when I thought I'd had it with insipid goat's cheese starters, along
comes one that offers a cheese with enough pungency to take the
starring role it deserves. Paired with the melting leeks and sweet
raisins, the tangy Chevre makes this dish a real showstopper.
Cannelloni wit h foie gras and wil d mushrooms als o benefits
from a cheese topping, which in this case turns out to be an orange-
coloured, hazelnut-flavoure d Mimolette . Th e chees e shaving s
garnish two crepes filled with chopped wild mushrooms an d bits
of saute'ed foie gras served with a creamy mushroom sauce . It's a
winning combinatio n o f flavours—so earth y and strong—ye t
none o f the many wild mushrooms i n the mix come to the fore.
The spiced duck in a croustillant casing is composed o f dark,
confit-style shredde d duc k meat in a phyllo shell, the whole ac-
companied b y no mor e than a spattering o f sauce and a sprin-
kling of cinnamon. This fails to impress as it's all so dry—simply
crying out fo r a ladleful o f sauce—and the stron g spice obliter -
ates the duck flavour.
Many main course s seem to suffe r fro m th e sam e fault: veg-
etables used as an accessory instead o f as an integral part o f th e
dish. A generous portion o f striped sea bass is marred by a sweet
mango sauce and overcooked asparagus spears that add little. The
lamb dish (chops and loin) is very good; the meat is pink, moist,
and flavourful . Bu t the potato galette around which th e mea t is
arranged i s soggy and tasteless . Althoug h th e magre t de canar d
has a fine flavour, the texture is somewhat tough and spongy, and
the skin lacks the desired crackly mouth feel .
The chees e cours e features , among others , a Migneron d e
Charlevoix and Sir Laurier d'Arthabaska. Desserts are worth th e
indulgence. A hot apple tart features thinly sliced apples, a hazel-
nut filling, a crisp crust, and a scoop of rum ice cream. Also served
with rum ic e cream are a mellow chocolate souffle' , and a Pavlova
consisting of berries, hard meringue, and whipped cream .
40 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef and owner Jacques Robert.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE • The decor of this converted blue

bam i s a conundrum o f contemporary styles . It features flying-
saucer-shaped light fixtures, wall-to-wall carpeting, yellow stucco
walls, red-cushioned wicke r chairs, a n imposin g atrium , an d a n
eclectic selection of paintings hung in every available space. The
overriding feel is more modern hotel lobby than country restau -
rant.

WINE LIST • The uniquely French wine list includes many pres-
tigious and pricey bottles—including the wine world's Big Three
—namely Chateau Petrus, Chateau dYquem, and Romanee-Conti.
Fortunately, there are many modest selections as well, and the staf f
is more than happy to consult within your price range.

DON'T MISS • The goat's chees e tart, the lamb, and dishes that
include wild mushroom s (mushroo m gatherin g is a passion o f
the chef's).

WORDS TO THE WISE • Those accustomed to hip and happen-

ing surroundings may find Au Tournant de la Riviere stodgy. But
stodgy can be good, and many people would be happy to frequent
an establishment such as this that offers attentiv e service and clas-
sic French food in a let's-get-away-from-it-all setting .

AU TOURNANT DE LA RIVIERE
5070 Salaberry
Location: Carignan
Telephone: (450) 658-7372
Open: Dinner, 6:30 P.M.-9 P.M., Wednesday to Saturday;
Sunday brunch, 11 A.M.-2 P.M.
Wheelchair access: Yes
Reservations: Recommended
Cards: Major cards
Price range: Four-course table d'hote menu, $37—$60;
tasting menu, $70
 TOP TABLE S 4 1

ssss ITALIAN

BICE
SNAPSHOT • Show up for an evening at Bice for the food alone,
and you'll be missing half the fun. This restaurant is an oasis for
the sophisticated crowd , a place for a night of pampering and, of
course, to see and be seen. The a la carte menu features a nice mix
of nouvell e an d authenti c Italia n fare , wit h a goo d choic e o f
starters, pastas , assorte d risotti , and plent y o f main-course fish
and mea t dishes . Though th e tentlik e summer terrac e is one of
the mos t stunnin g dinin g spaces i n the city , the long , candleli t
dining room provides a fine wintertime alternative.

THE BI G PICTURE • It feel s lik e ages ago that th e spac e once

occupied by the Waddington Gallery was plastered with "Coming
Soon" signs promising a Montreal Bice , a new addition t o tha t
stylish international restauran t chai n (founde d in th e 1920 s i n
Milan) wit h branches i n th e grea t metropolitan centres—Ne w
York, London, Tokyo, and Paris. The signs, which eventually began
to crumple and fade , seemed to hang there forever. I had al l but
given up hope of seeing a restaurant o n this elegant strip of Rue
Sherbrooke when the good news came that various partners from
Primadonna and Mediterraneo were bringing Bice to life .
They pulled i t together i n recor d time . Employee s were sent
for training in Manhattan, and an Italian chef flew in from Milan
to get the glamorous party started.
It's taken a few years and a few growing pains for Bice to find
solid footing .
Two of Bice's former chefs—Jose Rodriguez and John Ledwell
—should b e credite d fo r bringin g th e men u int o focu s an d
adding a healthy dose of innovation. Today's chef, Mario L'Ecuyer,
appears to be continuing in that vein.
A recent meal with friend s starte d of f with a house cocktai l
(Cosmopolitan) an d crouton s serve d with choppe d frie d squid ,
goat's cheese, and chickpe a spread, and a tomato an d basil con-
42 FLAVOURVILL E • LESLEY CHESTERMA N

casse, along with a bowl of fried shiitake mushroom s wit h pin e

nuts and garlic. Both the room's sophisticated ambienc e and the
predinner munchies scored high.
The marinated grilled octopus starter was spicy and deliciously
tender, an d wa s accompanied b y a spoonful of firm lim a beans
and a few strips of sweet oven-roasted tomatoes. Also superb was a
plate of fried calamar i paired with tempura vegetables. The squid
rings were lightly battered, the vegetables were crisp and not a bit
greasy, and the tw o dipping sauces—spice d aioli and ponzu —
provided two marked flavour enhancers that are worlds apart.
A plate of grilled shrimp served with a savoury bread pudding,
rosemary oil , an d potat o gaufrette s wa s memorable fo r th e re -
silient, fresh shrimp. Particularly appreciated was a plate of oysters
prepared thre e ways: traditional, with a bit o f spinach; warmed
over an d sprinkle d wit h truffl e oil ; an d suspende d i n a glass of
cold sake.
For main courses, the carnivore of our group enjoyed the osso
buco with risott o Milanese, which featured falling-off-the-bone -
tender veal shank, and creamy, al dente risotto.
Pasta lovers shouldn't rnis s Bice's selection of primi piatti, as
most of the pasta is made in-house. Though the pappardelle with
Mozzarella an d tomat o crea m sauc e has lon g been a favourite ,
don't overloo k anothe r o f Bice's signature pastas—vea l ravioli
(ravioli della Massaia). Unlike so many inferior renditions o f this
classic, this generous portion offers tende r half-moo n pasta pil-
lows that are meaty (as opposed to pasty) and smothered in a rich
and potent wild mushroom sauce.
I know of no other Italian restaurant that takes as much care
with the dessert course as Bice. Pastry chef Rodney Aguilar offer s
simple and elegant creations presented with flair. The milk choco-
late semifredd o with carame l consist s o f a squar e o f froze n
mousse that's unctuous enough to coat the roof of your mouth.
Chocolate lovers will be treated to one of the best molten choco -
late cakes around, especially since it's paired with an intense pis-
tachio ice cream. A banana parfait glace 1 filled with lemon cream
provides a light finish for those wise enough to avoid the tempta-
tion of chocolate at the end of an Italian meal.
 TOP TABLE S 4 3

Service at Bice is good, if a tad reserved . To be fair, the young

waiters are usually at hand and make fine menu and wine sugges-
tions.

IN THE KITCHEN • Chef Mario L'Ecuyer.

DECOR, DRESS, AMBIENCE •The decor is very smart, chic in a

rather understated way, and perfectly suited to the location. The
room, usually packed with downtown's best-dresse d diners , fol-
lows th e Bic e formul a with bol d fresh-flowe r arrangements,
round-back wooden chairs , thick white tablecloths, an d a mag-
nificent outdoor terrace. The best seats, next to the front window,
offer terrifi c view s of Ru e Sherbrooke an d th e Linto n buildin g
across the street.

WINE LIST • Bice's predominantly Italian win e list is short bu t

well chosen. You'll find plenty of costly Barolos and Brunellos, but
those less willing to splurge are well served, especially with white
wines. Wines by the glass are another goo d choice here, for they
are generously poured and also fairly priced ($7.50).

DON'T MISS• The calamari and tempura vegetables, the oysters

prepared three ways, the marinated grilled octopus, the osso buco,
the vea l ravioli , the pappardell e wit h Mozzarell a and tomat o
cream sauce, and the desserts.

WORDS TO THE WISE • Many complain that a night out at Bice

can be a costly affair. True, but i f you order carefully (the pastas are
always delicious) you'll end up with a bill on a par with many less
extravagant establishments. The lunchtime table d'hfite offers ex-
cellent value, and in the summer months, lunch on Bice's terrace
is unbeatable.
Discovering Diverse Content Through
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not only for preserving and professing the truths of the gospel, but
also for propagating them. This, you know, has always been urged
upon you from the pulpit as a solemn duty, and though you have
perhaps sometimes felt as if you had been urged too much; and
though your pastor has sometimes been kindly warned that his own
resources would be diminished, if he so earnestly pleaded for foreign
objects; yet, I trust, many of you have found that the money you
have given, and especially the personal efforts you have put forth,
for the spread of the gospel, have not been in vain in the Lord, but
have been spiritually advantageous to yourselves, as well as to
others. As one consequence of these appeals and urgings, your
pastor has always been associated with many fellow-labourers in the
work of the Lord, who have been distributors of tracts, collectors for
public Institutions, christian Instruction Agents, Sunday School
Teachers, conductors of prayer meetings, and preachers of the
gospel in the neighbouring villages. And by so doing, you have been
the means of converting sinners from the error of their way, and of
saving their souls from death; your personal piety and the prosperity
of the church has been advanced; your pastor’s heart has been
strengthened and comforted; and the name of Christ has been
glorified. May the Lord of the harvest never fail to supply us with
such labourers, and may all succeeding pastors and members of the
church, be constrained, by the love of Christ, “to live not to
themselves, but to Him who died for them and rose again.”
Several other Institutions, which it is needful or desirable should be
formed in connection with a church of Christ, exist among us; some
of which are more particularly for the use of our own congregation,
and others for the general interests of humanity and religion. The
Society for the relief of our sick and aged poor, was instituted in
1821, and has all along been most economically and efficiently
conducted by a committee of ladies, who meet for business once a
month, and who visit and relieve the needy and afflicted objects.
They have thus distributed full £330. The Provident Society was
instituted in 1835, and affords an opportunity for any person in the
congregation, or for any child in the Sunday School, to secure a sum
of money weekly during sickness, and a pension for old age, by
paying a proportionate monthly subscription during health. It has
received from these payments about £200. The Vestry Libraries,
connected with the chapel in Prince’s Street, contain nearly a
thousand well-selected volumes on various subjects, but especially
on religious subjects; to which any persons in the congregation have
access, on subscribing a shilling a quarter, and to which the Sunday
School Teachers and children have access gratuitously. Our Christian
Instruction Society, was formed for the purpose of paying religious
visits, and for distributing tracts, in several districts, chiefly in the
neighbourhood of the chapel; and though the subsequent institution
of the City Mission has, in some measure, superseded its labours,
there are now about fifteen agents connected with it, and it occupies
a room in King-street for religious worship on the Sabbath. We have
also auxiliaries and associations formed among us on behalf of the
London Missionary Society, for sending the gospel to the heathen;
on behalf of British Missions, embracing the Home Missionary
Society, the Irish Evangelical Society, and the Colonial Missionary
Society; on behalf of the County Association for the spread of the
gospel in Norfolk; and on behalf of the Norwich City Mission; besides
granting collections and subscriptions to various other religious
institutions, formed for promoting the spiritual welfare of our fellow
countrymen, and of mankind at large.
The amount of money required for these various purposes and for
the support of the ministry, has of course not been small. A careful
effort has been made, to obtain a full and correct account; but it has
been found impossible to ascertain all the items. Since the chapel
was opened, many public collections have been made, of which
there is no record, and which are now entirely forgotten. The
following account may be considered correct as far as it goes, and at
the end of it something may be added for omissions.

Expences connected with the Building.

£ s. d.
Cost of ground, building, frontage, and walls, 1819–1820 4834 8 8
New roof and connected expences, deducting £100 given 200 0 0
by other congregations
Enclosing the chapel inside, and improving the free seats, 91 17 9
&c., 1832
Children’s gallery, singing pew, 1839 178 0 5
Replastering ceiling and walls, 1842 176 11 9
Quarterly subscriptions paid by the seat holders, from 8797 14 3
1818 to 1846
Institutions connected with the Chapel.
Sunday School collections, from 1821 to 1846 533 11 3
Collected at Christmas, in several years, for clothing poor 100 0 0
Sunday School children
Received and distributed by the Sick and Aged Poor 330 11 0
Society
Collected at Christmas, in several years, for the poor 153 2 0
Collected at the Lord’s Supper, for expenses, and for the 888 9 8
poor
Purses presented to the minister 150 0 0
Purchase, in part, of library books 70 0 0
The Provident Society 192 12 1
Thorpe and Trowse.
Towards the building of Thorpe chapel 250 0 0
Rent of Trowse chapel, 1830 to 1846 196 0 0
Thorpe and Trowse mission, from 1839 348 4 4
For Norwich.
Towards the erection of the school at Pockthorpe 150 0 0
Towards the support of Pockthorpe Sunday Schools, for 50 10 0
18 years
Towards the erection of the Peafield Schools 140 0 0
The Christian Instruction Society 10 0 0
The City Mission 450 0 0
The Norwich and Norfolk Hospital 25 2 6
For Norfolk.
The Norfolk Association for the spread of the Gospel in 432 18 2
the county, from 1821
Towards various chapels in the county, &c. 187 4 0
For Great Britain.
Irish Evangelical Society and Irish Congregational Union 50 0 0
British Missions 68 15 0
British Society for the Jews 22 5 8
Scotch Free Church 21 0 0
Nonconformist Colleges for education of Ministers 75 8 0
Collection for the distressed Irish 166 3 6
Foreign Missions.
London Missionary Society, including sums for Baptist 2381 17 3
Missions, Moravians, and Irish, from 1820
Tract Society 478 11 1

The total amount of all these sums is £22,200 18s. 4d.; and we may
safely add at least £300 for subscriptions and collections which
cannot be remembered; so that, in about twenty-nine years, there
has been collected, for various purposes, the large sum of £22,500.
All this money, it must be remembered, has come from a
congregation, which though numerous, has not been rich; and it has
been contributed by them, not as a compulsory tax, but in addition
to the compulsory taxes which they have been compelled to pay
towards the Church Establishment from which they have
conscientiously dissented. We have, therefore, “not robbed other
churches” for the support of our own; but all our contributions have
been given on the voluntary principle, and as a freewill offering,
which in many cases have, no doubt, been given as unto the Lord,
and not unto men. It has indeed been contributed by a people who
have often been taught the duty and importance of giving both
money and personal efforts to the cause of Christ, as a testimony of
allegiance to their Lord and Master, and as a means of personal
prosperity and usefulness. And let any people, under the influence
of religion, which is the true voluntary principle, be suitably appealed
to by their minister for pecuniary help, on behalf of institutions for
the spread of the gospel, and he will be far from injuring either them
or himself. They will become better and happier by helping others,
and he and his family will be the better and the happier too—at least
such is the testimony which the pastor of Prince’s Street can bear,
relative to himself, and to his liberal congregation.
Such, brethren, is our eventful and varied history, as a church and
congregation, during the last thirty years—a history which, on the
review, most impressively reminds your pastor of many
imperfections and infirmities, which have been connected with him
as a man, a christian, and a minister; and on account of which he
finds it needful every day to humble himself before God, and to say,
“Enter not into judgment with thy servant, O Lord;” and yet a history
which, even so far as he is concerned, has afforded many
remarkable manifestations of divine love and mercy. He had, for
many years, an abundant degree of bodily health, which enabled
him to do the work of the Lord laboriously and happily; he has had a
large share of domestic comfort and privilege, and now is
surrounded by a beloved family, most of whom are his spiritual as
well as his natural relatives, and some of whom are gone to be for
ever with the Lord; he has been privileged with a large degree of
public friendship and approbation, and has many beloved and
esteemed friends in surrounding churches, some of whom are of
other denominations, and some of whom are the fruits of his
ministry; he has, above all these things, been abundantly honoured
and blessed by the Great Head of the church, in promoting the
conversion of sinners, and the peace and union of the church, in
whose affectionate confidence it has been his privilege to live; and
though latterly health has occasionally failed, and now and then he
has been admonished that his master will soon require his services
in another world, yet, thanks be to God, for that degree of vigour
and buoyancy which yet remains, and which he is more desirous
than ever should be consecrated to your spiritual welfare; and,
thanks be to God, for that good and joyful hope which he cherishes,
that when his earthly labours are concluded, he shall be gathered to
the fellowship of the redeemed and the Redeemer, in the many
mansions of his Father’s house.
But, beloved brethren, the history of the last thirty years affords
many subjects for grateful and humbling review to yourselves, as
well as to your pastor. You have erected a noble chapel, which will
be, I trust, during future years, as it has been during the past, the
spiritual birthplace of immortal souls; you have had a Christian
church formed among you, in which “one is your Master, even Christ,
and all ye are brethren,” and which, through the power and grace of
the Holy Spirit, has increased, from fourteen, to nearly seven
hundred members; you have enjoyed, amidst the services of the
sanctuary, many a time of sweet and heavenly refreshing; you have,
in connection with your own place of worship, many valuable
institutions, conducted by zealous and laborious individuals, and
which are the salt and savour of the church; you have two very
important and interesting village stations under your care, in one of
which you have built a chapel, and in both of which you support a
worthy missionary, preach the gospel, and teach Sunday Schools;
you have cheerfully and sufficiently supported your own minister;
you have paid your own congregational expences; and you have
contributed to various religious objects and institutions the noble
sum of twenty-two thousand five hundred pounds; and now, at the
close of the first thirty years of your ecclesiastical history, you have
assembled together, to review the past with humble gratitude to
God; to testify your unabated attachment to the pastor of your
voluntary choice; and to enter upon another thirty years, which, as
they roll along, will bear away many of you, and me also, into the
eternal world. “Let thy work, O Lord, appear unto thy servants, and thy
glory unto their children. And let the beauty of the Lord our God be upon
us; and establish thou the work of our hands upon us; yea, the work of our
hands establish thou it.”
 THE GOOD PASTOR.

Thirty years have rolled away,

Since that holy, happy day,
When amongst us first he came,
In his Master’s cause and name,
Hearts to gladden—souls to win
From the power of death and sin.
Thirty years their dews have shed
On his loved and honoured head,
Since, in all the glow of youth,
Champion of celestial truth,
He his hallowed task began,
Holiest work of fallen man.
Since that holy, happy day,
Many a soul hath passed away—
Many a soul that listened long,
To the pleadings, soft, yet strong,
From his kindled lips that fell,
For the Lord he loved so well.
Since that holy, happy day,
Who amongst us all can say—
Say how many hearts have felt
Stubborn pride within them melt,
As, with tenderness and love,
In the Saviour’s cause he strove?
Who shall say how many a mind,
Erewhile erring, weak, and blind,
Hath, beneath his guiding hand,
Sought and found “the better land,”—
Seen its darkness flee away
In the blaze of gospel-day?
This we know and this we feel:—
Something of his quiet zeal;
Something of his holy love,
(Likest that which blooms above)
Ever quick to soothe and bless
With its tones of tenderness;
Something too we all have known
Of that wisdom—all his own,
Wherewith in our darkest day
He can guide us on our way;
Something of his genial heart,
Wherein all the world hath part.
Spare him Lord! and spare him long!
In thy strength may he be strong.
Spare him still to lead us on
To the fight that must be won.
But as thou wilt one day, Lord!
Take him to his high reward,
Unto us and him be given,
One eternal home in heaven!
R. B.
 BY THE SAME AUTHOR.

The Preacher prom the Press. Sermons to explain and to recommend

the Gospel of Jesus Christ. 2 vols., cloth boards, Price 6s.
The Death of a Minister an Event of Peculiar Importance. A Funeral
Sermon for the Rev. John Sykes, of Guestwick.
The Mourning Congregation reminded of the work of their deceased
Minister. A Funeral Sermon for the Rev. Joseph Kinghorn, of Norwich.
Church Membership. An Appeal to Christians on the Duty and
Importance of Communion with the Church.
The Objects and Motives of Modern Nonconformists. A Sermon
preached at the Opening of Hingham Chapel.
The Baptism of the Prince. A Sermon preached in anticipation of the
Baptism of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.
Apostolic Ways in the Church. The Introductory Discourse delivered at
the Ordination of the Rev. Andrew Reed, B.A. in the Old Meeting
House, Norwich.
The Christian serving his own Generation. A Sermon occasioned by the
lamented death of J. J. Gurney, Esq.
Brief Memoir of J. J. Gurney, Esq. With Portrait. Tenth Thousand.

NORWICH:
PRINTED BY JOSIAH FLETCHER, UPPER HAYMARKET.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THIRTY YEARS'
HISTORY OF THE CHURCH AND CONGREGATION IN PRINCE'S
STREET CHAPEL, NORWICH ***

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