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Beaches are formed by sediments along sea or lake shores, influenced by coastal processes and sediment types. There are three main types of beaches: those bordering rocky coasts, free beaches on marine plains, and sediment barriers separating lagoons from the sea. The beach profile varies based on factors like wave parameters and sediment distribution, featuring elements such as beach terraces, slopes, and submarine bars.

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19 views4 pages

Notes

Beaches are formed by sediments along sea or lake shores, influenced by coastal processes and sediment types. There are three main types of beaches: those bordering rocky coasts, free beaches on marine plains, and sediment barriers separating lagoons from the sea. The beach profile varies based on factors like wave parameters and sediment distribution, featuring elements such as beach terraces, slopes, and submarine bars.

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beach, sediments that accumulate along the sea or lake shores, the

configuration and contours of which depend on the action of


coastal processes, the kinds of sediment involved, and the rate of
delivery of this sediment. There are three different kinds of
beaches. The first occurs as a sediment strip bordering a rocky or
cliffy coast; the second is the outer margin of a plain of marine or
fluvial accumulation (free beaches); and the third, of fairly peculiar
character, consists of the narrow sediment barriers stretching for
dozens or even hundreds of kilometres parallel to the general
direction of the coast. These barriers separate lagoons from the
open sea and generally are dissected by some tidal inlets. Certain
sediment forelands, such as spits, points, and tombolos (which
connect an island with a mainland), also occasionally are called
beaches.

Malibu: beachBeach in Malibu, California.

The upper limit of the active beach is the swash line reached by
highest sea level during big storms. The lower beach margin is
beneath the water surface and can be determined only if there is a
definite border present between the sediment layer and the naked
surface of the rocky bench. If the sediment cover extends into deep
water, the lowest beach margin may be defined as the line where
the strongest waves no longer sort and move the sand. It occurs
approximately at a depth equal to one-third the wavelength or 10
times the wave height.

The profile of an active beach varies greatly. Its form and


dimensions depend on a number of factors, such as wave
parameters, tide height, and sediment composition and
distribution. The following, however, constitute some of the profile
elements that commonly occur. At the upper part, above high sea
level, a beach terrace is located, and there may be a series of beach
ridges or berms created by the waves of a previous major storm.
This terrace surface is inclined seaward. The next element is a
steeper, frontal beach slope or face, and beneath it a low-tide
terrace may be developed. If the tides are high enough (more than
2 m [6.6 feet]), the frontal slope may be more than 1 km (0.6 mile)
in width in regions with abundant sand and a shallow bottom. In
some areas the low-tide terrace terminates with another inclined
shoreface, if the nearshore sea zone is rather deep. Finally, one or
several parallel, submarine, long-shore bars with intervening
troughs may exist along sandy shores; if present, these bars
constitute the last profile element.
More From Britannica

coastal landforms: Beaches and coastal dunes

Some minor relief forms are usually present on the surface of sand
beaches. These include oscillation ripples, swash or rill furrows,
and the well-known beach cusps (concave seaward) at the beach
margin.

Given the established system of strong waves normal to the


shoreline, submarine bars are sometimes dismembered and are
converted into large crescent elements convex seaward. These
relief forms reflect the existence of large water eddies with vertical
axes, which form as a result of the ebb and flow of the water. Often
the water outflow proceeds in the form of linear rip currents. These
may be so strong that they cause erosion of deep channels in the
submarine slopes.

In many countries the wind strongly affects the dynamics of the


beach. The beach is exposed to the sea wind, and sand is usually
blown off to the rear parts of the beach, where it forms small
hummocks. As these join together, foredunes are being built, and,
if the beach is well-supplied with sand in the right area, several
rows of dunes will be formed. When the sand is abundant, dunes
will shift to adjacent low-lying plains and may bury fertile soils,
woods, and buildings.

If sand is no longer delivered to the region of developed dunes,


gaps will form in the ridges parallel to the shore. In such zones,
parabolic dunes with their summits coastward are created. After
long stabilization, the summits of the parabolas may be broken
through by the wind, thus gradually forming a series of ridges
parallel to the prevailing winds.

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