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Different Types of Breaking Waves

Vortex ripples are short-period, wave-generated bedforms characterized by triangular crests formed by flow separation during wave motion, leading to unique bed shear stress patterns that transport sediment upslope toward the crest. There are three main types of breaking waves: spilling, plunging, and surging, each defined by the steepness of the shoreline and the manner in which wave energy is dissipated. Spilling breakers provide longer rides on gentle slopes, plunging breakers create exciting curls on steeper shores, while surging breakers crash directly onto steep beaches with little surf.

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21 views3 pages

Different Types of Breaking Waves

Vortex ripples are short-period, wave-generated bedforms characterized by triangular crests formed by flow separation during wave motion, leading to unique bed shear stress patterns that transport sediment upslope toward the crest. There are three main types of breaking waves: spilling, plunging, and surging, each defined by the steepness of the shoreline and the manner in which wave energy is dissipated. Spilling breakers provide longer rides on gentle slopes, plunging breakers create exciting curls on steeper shores, while surging breakers crash directly onto steep beaches with little surf.

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VORTEX RIPPLES FORMATION AND DYNAMICS IN VORTEX RIPPLES

Vortex ripples are short-period, wave-generated bedforms typically observed in


sandy beds under oscillatory flow. These ripples are characterized by sharp,
triangular crests and are shaped primarily by the flow separation that occurs
during wave motion.
At the start of each half wave cycle—say, when flow moves from left to right—a
separation bubble forms just downstream of the ripple crest. As the wave
velocity increases, the separation bubble grows in size and strength, expanding
downstream along the lee face of the ripple. This bubble represents a region of
reversed or recirculating flow near the bed, effectively shielding it from the main
flow.
As the flow decelerates near the end of the half-cycle, the pressure gradient
reverses. This causes the separation bubble to detach from the bed. The vortex
then weakens and eventually breaks up as the main flow continues to slow.
When the flow reverses in the next half cycle (right to left), the same sequence
occurs on the opposite side of the ripple crest, maintaining the alternating
pattern of vortex formation.
The persistence of these separation bubbles near the crest results in a unique
pattern of bed shear stress. During each half-cycle, particles near the crest
experience reversed flow for a significant portion of the cycle, tending to push
sediment upslope toward the crest. This happens because the near-bed velocity
inside the separation bubble is directed uphill—opposite the main flow—while
outside the bubble, it follows the direction of the wave-induced flow.
As a result, the time-averaged (period-averaged) bed shear stress at locations
near the crest is consistently directed toward the ripple crest, regardless of the
direction of the main flow. This creates a net convergence of sediment toward
the crest, reinforcing its sharp geometry.
To maintain a stable ripple shape under this net upslope forcing, the slope of the
ripple must be steep enough that gravitational effects can counteract this non-
zero bed shear stress. In other words, the downslope gravitational pull on
sediment must balance the average upslope transport caused by flow
separation. If this balance is met, there is zero net bedload transport over a wave
cycle, and the ripple remains in dynamic equilibrium.
TYPES OF BREAKING WAVES

There are three main types of breakers: spilling, plunging, and surging. These are
related to the steepness of the bottom, and how quickly the wave will slow down
and its energy will get dissipated.
 Spilling breakers form on gently sloping or flatter beaches, where the
energy of the wave is dissipated gradually. The wave slowly increases in
height, then slowly collapses on itself (Figure 10.3.2). For surfers, these
waves provide a longer ride, but they are less exciting.
 Spilling breakers form on gently sloping or flatter beaches, where the
energy of the wave is dissipated gradually. The wave slowly increases in
height, then slowly collapses on itself (Figure 10.3.2). For surfers, these
waves provide a longer ride, but they are less exciting.

Figure 10.3.2 A spilling breaker. The gentle slope of the bottom causes the
wave height to slowly increase until the wave collapses on itself

 Plunging breakers form on more steeply-sloped shores, where there is a


sudden slowing of the wave and the wave gets higher very quickly. The
crest outruns the rest of the wave, curls forwards and breaks with a
sudden loss of energy (Figure 10.3.3). These are the “pipeline” waves that
surfers seek out.

Figure 10.3.3 A plunging breaker. The steeper slope causes the wave height to
increase more rapidly, with the crest of the wave outrunning the base of the
wave, causing it to curl as it breaks
 Surging breakers form on the steepest shorelines. The wave energy is
compressed very suddenly right at the shoreline, and the wave breaks
right onto the beach (Figure 10.3.4). These waves give too short (and
potentially painful) a ride for surfers to enjoy. Surging breakers occur
where waves slam directly on the shoreline. With no gentle slope the
waves surge onto a steep beach, producing no tumbling surf. Surging
breakers also create huge splashes on a rocky cliff shoreline.

Figure 10.3.4 A surging breaker. The very steep slope causes the wave height
to increase suddenly and break right on the beach

Steep slopes produce surging breakers.

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