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Lecture 2 - Definitions

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12 views12 pages

Lecture 2 - Definitions

Uploaded by

rishabhkumarkushwaha4
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We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Fabric Manufacturing I

(TXL231)

Prof. Sumit Sinha Ray


Asst. Professor
Department of Textile and Fibre
Engineering
Stages of Weaving
A few motions to consider:
a) Primary
b) Secondary
c) Auxiliary
Shedding

Primary Picking

Beat-up

Take-up
Motions Secondary
Let-off

Warp stop

Auxiliary Weft stop

Warp
protector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=worKmsWZqYE
Types of Looms

❑ Hand loom: This is mainly used in the unorganized sector. Operations such as shedding and picking are done by using
manual power. This is one of the major sources of employment generation in rural areas of India and many other
countries.
❑ Power loom (non-automatic): All the operations of non-automatic power loom are driven by motor except pirn
changing
❑ Automatic loom: In this power loom, the exhausted pirn is replenished by the full one without stoppage. This is possible
only in under-pick system
❑ Shuttleless loom: Weft is carried by projectiles, rapiers or fluids in case of shuttleless looms. The rate of fabric
production is much higher for these looms.

, , -
Primary Motion: Shedding
❑ Shedding is the process by which the warp sheet is divided into two groups so that a clear passage is created for the
weft yarn or for the weft-carrying device to pass through it. One group of yarns either moves in the upward direction or
stays in the up position (if they are already in that position), thus forming the top shed line. Another group of yarns
either moves in the downward direction or stays in the down position (if they are already in that position), thus forming
the bottom shed line.

Healds are used to control a large


number of warp yarns. The warp
yarn actually passes through the
heald eye. Therefore, as the heald
moves, all the warp yarns which are
controlled by that head also move
Primary Motion: Picking
❑ The insertion of weft or weft-carrying device (shuttle, projectile or rapier) through the shed is known as picking. Based
on the picking system, looms can be classified as- Shuttle, Projectile, Rapier, Air jet, Water jet loom. Except for shuttle
loom, weft is always inserted from only one side of the loom. The timing of picking is extremely important, especially in
case of shuttle loom.

Shuttle, rapier heads and projectile (from top to bottom)


Primary Motion: Beat up
❑ Beat-up is the action by which the newly inserted weft yarn or pick is pushed up to the cloth fell. Cloth fell is the
boundary up to which the fabric has been woven. The loom component responsible for the beat-up is called ‘reed’

Reed is like a metallic comb. It can


have different count. For example,
80s Stockport reed has 80 dents in 2
inches. Generally, one or two warp
yarns are passed through a single
dent, and these are called ‘one in a
dent’ or ‘two in a dent’, respectively
Secondary and Auxiliary Motions
❑ Take-up motion winds the newly formed fabric on the cloth roller either continuously or intermittently after the beat-
up. The take-up speed also determines the picks/cm value in the fabric at loom state. As the take-up motion winds the
newly formed fabric, tension in the warp sheet increases. To compensate this, the weaver’s beam is rotated by the let-
off mechanism so that adequate length of warp is released

❑ Auxiliary motions are mainly related to the activation of stop motions in case of any malfunctioning such as warp
breakage (Warp Stop), weft breakage (Weft Stop) or shuttle trapping within the shed (Warp Protector)

However, before all of these, comes the most important part- the raw material (Yarn- Fibres)
Before Weaving

(a) Ringframe bobbin or cop,


(b) cone, (c)cheese and (d)
pirn

❑ During yarn formation such bobbins (~2000 m), contain many objectionable faults. Such faults need to be removed, and
the resultant clean yarns from the supply bobbins need to be joined together to form a package of suitable dimension
containing a sufficiently long length of yarn.

Before weaving comes ‘Preparatory Stages’- Winding, Warping, Sizing, and drawing, denting
Before Weaving

The yarn itself is, in several instances, assembled from discontinuous fibres in a still more elaborate yarn-formation
process. Thus, a large lag time is inherent in this textile system of conversion of fibres to yarns first followed by
conversion of yarns to fabric.
Some Necessary Definitions: Knowing the Yarn
Yarn Count:
1. Direct systems (example: Tex, Denier)
2. Indirect systems (example: new English, i.e. Ne, Metric, i.e. Nm)
Direct systems revolve around expressing the mass of yarn per unit length. In contrast, indirect system expresses the length
of yarn per unit mass. So, a 10 tex yarn implies that a piece of 1000 m long yarn will have a mass of 10 g. Similarly, for 10
denier, a piece of 9000 m long yarn will have a mass of 10 g. 10 Ne implies that a 1-pound yarn will have a length of 10 ×
840 yards (453.6 g of yarns having length of 7681 m)

Packing Factor or Packing Coefficient:


Packing factor or packing coefficient represents the extent of closeness of fibres within the yarn structure. For the
same yarn linear density, if the fibres are closely packed, then yarn diameter will be less.

For spun yarns, packing factor generally lies between 0.55 and 0.65. Yarns with lower packing factor are expected to be
bulkier and softer.
Some Necessary Definitions: Knowing the Yarn
Crimp:
Once the warp and weft are interlaced, both assume wavy or sinusoidal-like path. Thus, the length of the yarn
becomes more than that of the fabric within which the former is constrained. Crimp is a measure of the degree of
waviness present in the yarns inside a woven fabric.

Fractional Cover and Cover Factor:


Fractional cover is the ratio of the area covered by the yarns to the total area of the fabric. If diameter of warp yarn is
d1 inch and spacing, that is gap between the two consecutive ends is p1 inch, then fractional cover for warp (k1) is
d1/p1. For cotton yarns, having packing factor of 0.6, the relationship between yarn diameter (d) in inch and yarn
count (Ne) is-

The relationship between end spacing (p1) and ends per inch (n1) is-

Cover factor is obtained by multiplying fractional cover with 28

how 28 is here Low High


Some Necessary Definitions: Knowing the Yarn
Porosity:
Porosity is a measure of presence of void or air inside the fabric or fibrous assemblies. It indicates the percentage of
volume of fabric that has been occupied by the air. If, Fabric areal density or gram per square meter (GSM) = G (g/m2)
Thickness of fabric = T (m), Density of Fibre =  (g/m3) , Porosity (%) = P

Areal Density:
Areal density is expressed by the mass of the fabric per unit area (g/m2, popularly called GSM). Areal density of the
fabric will depend on the following parameters-
• Warp yarn count (tex): T1
• Weft yarn count (tex): T2
• Ends per unit length (EPcm): N1
• Picks per unit length (PPcm): N2
• Crimp % in warp: C1
• Crimp % in weft: C2

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