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Visual Merchandising
Laurence King Publishing
Visual Merchandising
Window and in-store displays for retail
Tony Morgan
Published in 2011 by Laurence King
Publishing Ltd in association with the University of the Arts: London College of Fashion
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without
prior permission in writing from the publisher.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Printed in China
Cover
Selfridges, London.
© Andrew Meredith
Page 2
A metallic window scheme entitled “Mirror Mirror” attracts customers with its reflective qualities at Selfridges,
London.
Contents
Preface
Store Design
What is store design?
Why is store design important?
Who designs the store?
How does store design work?
Store study: Kurt Geiger
Windows
Getting to know your windows
Planning a window display
Themes and schemes
Budgeting
Props
Designing a window display
Store study: Printemps
Color
Window prepping
Installing the window display
Store study: Louis Vuitton
Lighting
Signage and graphics
Window calendar
Window standards and maintenance, and budget
Store study: Fortnum & Mason
In-store Visual Merchandising
Product adjacencies
Floor layouts
Store study: Matthew Williamson
Fixtures
Wall fixtures
Product handling
Store study: Flight 001
In-store displays and trend areas
Point of purhase and add-on sales
Clearance merchandise
Signage and tagging
Lighting
Ambience
Retail standards and maintenance, and budget
Virtual visual merchandising
Store study: Topshop
Mannequins
Sculpting
Purchasing mannequins
Dressing a mannequin
Securing a mannequin
Grouping mannequins
Maintenance
Glossary
Further reading
Index
Picture credits and acknowledgments
Preface
If you have ever stood outside a shop admiring the artistry of the window
display, been distracted by a sale item while passing through a department
store, or paused to take in information from a store guide, then you have been
sidetracked by visual merchandising. If you purchased something as a result
of stopping in your progress along the sidewalk or through a store, then you
have succumbed to its supremacy.
For years, the creative individuals who made the stores of the world look appealing
for retailers and their loyal customers were known as window dressers or display
artists. Display teams had a unique and much-envied function in a store. Occasionally
with generous budgets—and most definitely with a huge amount of talent—they
mysteriously locked themselves away in studios or lurked behind the curtains of the
windows and produced stunning, eye-catching works of art for the shopping
community to admire.
During the 1980s, possibly because of a global recession and the threat of e-
commerce from the Internet, store bosses suddenly questioned the quantities and
abilities of these non-profit-making departments. As a result, they began to push the
display artists in-store to cast a creative eye over the racks and rails of discounted
merchandise; thus the visual merchandiser was born.
Rarely taken seriously at first, because their new roles were unexplained, visual
merchandisers were soon laying out departments complete with “sight lines,” “focal
points,” and “hot shops.” A new retail vocabulary was born, and soon store interiors
had as much sparkle as their windows. Today, visual merchandisers command
respect, and are a much soughtafter commodity in the retail world as they provide not
only a service but also inspiration and commerciality. This book aims to enlighten and
educate students and retailers in the workings of the world of the visual
merchandiser. It covers both the art of the window display and in-store visual
merchandising, and looks at the tools that will help any would-be visual merchandiser
succeed.
By using case studies and specially commissioned illustrative diagrams, together with
images of the best in window display and in-store interiors from around the world, this
book aims to prove how effective visual merchandising can improve a store’s brand
image and inspire customers to spend.
A mannequin on a chaise longue reclines at the Rootstein showroom in New York. At a glance, this realistic model
looks almost human in appearance.
The History of Visual
Merchandising
Here the fish and poultry seller has created an artistic display of his wares, the design of which would not look out of
place in the display lore of visual merchandisers today.
In these attention-seeking, award-winning windows designed by Thomas Heatherwick for Harvey Nichols in London,
the scheme explodes through the glass onto the exterior of the store.
The first shopkeepers tried to lure consumers into their stores either by
ostentatiously exhibiting their names or by displaying products in their
windows or on tables in the street, proving that they were open for business
and proud of their produce.
To this day, butchers still fill their windows with fresh meat that serves both as a
display to attract customers and also shows the cuts available for sale that day.
Florists often not only pack their windows with the finest blooms, but trail them
outside the store and onto the sidewalk to entice customers across the threshold
using color and scent. Similarly, barbers will sometimes push a chair with an
unsuspecting client up to the glass window in order to prove their skill and popularity.
With the advent of new technology in the 1840s that allowed the production of large
panes of glass, department stores were perhaps responsible for taking the art of
window display to a higher level, using their large windows as stages, some of them
as theatrical as a Broadway show. Today, color, props, and atmospheric lighting on
many occasions arrogantly overshadow the merchandise, as visual merchandising
extends beyond its role of supporting the wares and becomes an art form, creating a
statement or provoking a reaction. Stores like London’s Harvey Nichols have
collaborated with designers and artists to produce eye-catching schemes where the
merchandise becomes part of an artistic work.
It is the department store, with its huge array of merchandise and vast amount of
window space, that is the pioneer of the window display. A relatively recent
phenomenon, it first began in France. Even there, however, for many years
department stores existed only in the capital, Paris. It was Aristide Boucicaut who
first had the idea of setting up this kind of store. He wanted to create a shop
designed to sell all sorts of merchandise, but also wanted to attract crowds of people
who could wander freely about in a little “town within the town.” In 1852 Boucicaut
opened the world’s first department store: Le Bon Marché.
Bon Marché department store in Paris in the late nineteenth century offered an impressive shopping experience for
its customers through the grandeur of its architecture.
A Selfridges window from 1920s London shows skill and imagination for its time, with its delicate display of
handkerchiefs.
The 1960s saw the creation of ready-to-wear fashion for the mass market, and Mary Quant was one of the first
designers, in 1959, to use the window of her London store as a showcase for her collections, as well as to promote
social trends.
The concept of the department store then spread to the United States, where famous
stores as we know them today first opened: Macy’s in New York in 1858, Marshall
Field’s in Chicago in 1865, Bloomingdale’s in New York in 1872, and also
Wanamaker’s in Philadelphia in 1876.
No one retailer or department store can possibly take the credit for producing the first
eye-catching staged window display; however, we can certainly look to various
individuals who helped set the standards for today’s visual merchandisers.
It was American retail entrepreneur Gordon Selfridge who had grand aspirations to
bring the concept of the department store—and with it the language of visual
merchandising—to Edwardian London. After leaving his post as managing director of
the majestic Marshall Field’s department store in Chicago and emigrating to England,
he arrived in London with grand designs to build a long-awaited premier, purpose-
built, modern department store.
Selfridge also included a few innovations in-store for his customers—including a soda
fountain for the sociable and a quiet room for the less so. He was never one to miss
out on a promotional opportunity. When, in July 1909, Louis Blériot crash-landed his
airplane in a field in Kent after flying across the English Channel, Selfridge had the
plane packed on a train at 2 a.m. and on display the same morning at 10 a.m. Fifty
thousand people queued to see it that day. By 1928, Selfridges had doubled in size to
become the store we now know, due to the hype and success of Gordon Selfridge.
Maybe it is not the most innovative display by today’s standards, but Marshall Field’s window from the early 1900s
caused a public reaction at the time in Chicago.
The coats on the mannequins in this 1950s window display at Printemps in Paris may look elegant, but the
mannequins are rigid and not grouped to engage with each other.
The 1920s saw an explosion of creativity in the arts and fashion, which spilled over
into the art of window display, and, once again, it was Paris that led the way.
Frustrated that their canvases could only be seen in the homes of the rich and
famous, many young artists in the city took their skills to the masses. Soon, the
arcades of the capital were occupied with Art Deco-inspired themes, and fashion
designers now found an innovative and exciting static runway on which to show their
creations.
By the 1970s, window dressing had begun to reflect the spirit of the age. In this window from Printemps in Paris, the
mannequins are displayed in tune with the times, with mirrored plinths suggesting the mirror-balls from the discos of
the day.
The American fashion brand Banana Republic produces eye-catching window schemes incorporating interesting
props, as well as a strong fashion statement, to make their windows both innovative and commercial.
The department stores of New York’s Fifth Avenue followed suit. In the 1930s, the
surrealist artist Salvador Dalí can be credited with setting the American creative
criteria in window display. He was approached to dress two windows for the Bonwit
Teller store. Street art took on another dimension when he unveiled his “Narcissus”
displays, but it was a step too far: his outrageous pastiches were removed after
complaints. Yet Dalí’s lack of success did not deter other would-be artists from
beginning their careers as window dressers. The artist Andy Warhol began his career
in the stores of New York while still in college; Jasper Johns, James Rosenquist, and
Robert Rauschenberg all worked as window dressers in the 1950s.
It was not only the big department stores that followed the new style of window
dressing. As fashion shifted from the couture houses to the major streets and social
trends developed, fashion designers worldwide began to make the most of their
windows. Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant, and Vivienne Westwood are just a few who told
the youth of yesteryear which social tribe they should belong to by dressing their
windows to inspire.
Terence Conran was acutely aware of the shifting fashion trends. In 1964, he created
a store to match those of the emerging fashion boutiques, but his differed in its type
of product: furniture. Chelsea, London, was the epicenter of style and youth culture
and Conran was quick to capitalize on this. His first store boasted whitewashed walls,
creating a sense of space that came as a revelation to home-owners. Customers
who visited his growing empire soon experienced spotlit ceilings, tiled floors, and
cafés. Nowadays, Habitat still maintains its presence in Britain’s towns and cities,
together with other stores such as Liberty and Harvey Nichols that paved the way for
the retailers of today; in New York an equivalent is Barneys.
The development of technology in the 1990s and the birth of super-brands like Gucci
and Prada saw the evolution of window displays into propaganda machines. With
massive marketing budgets behind them, these larger brands were able to produce
mass-marketing campaigns that featured the world’s most desirable faces and
bodies. In the windows of fashion stores, the mannequins that had graciously
modeled garments for decades became redundant and were often replaced by huge,
glossy photographs of emerging catwalk supermodels. Runway shows from the
world’s fashion capitals were projected on high-tech TV screens, and the clever use
of lighting not only enhanced the product but also helped to create ambience and
drama.
Thanks to the experiments and experience of the window dressers from yesteryear,
today’s visual merchandisers have a lot of proven techniques with which to work.
Visual merchandisers working in the proliferating fashion-store chains today, for
example, are reintroducing the mannequin to the shop window, having acknowledged
it to be a successful option for displaying the latest trends in a similar manner from
store to store. The Spanish fashion store Zara, for example, employs traditional
window-dressing techniques, its innovative window schemes and clever fashion styling
placing its windows alongside those of the major luxury brands.
Now that retail brands have not only taken control of the foremost shopping streets in
all major cities but have also infiltrated rural towns and villages, their innovative
techniques in visual merchandising have also made an impact on their competitors. In
the last decade, brands have pushed the boundaries of visual merchandising not just
by creating in-store displays to drive sales and keep the customer inspired but also
by introducing new techniques: DJs performing in urban clothing shops; contemporary
eateries flanking fashion floors; books and magazines breaking out of their host
departments; and fashion shows that can be viewed not only by the fashionistas but
also by lunchtime shoppers.
Today, a brand might exist within its own store, but the store can also become a
brand in its own right, populating its floor space with other brands, the idea being that
together they will generate more sales. This is particularly apparent in the larger
department stores like Selfridges, Printemps, and Macy’s. Either way, the visual
merchandiser’s task is to communicate a fundamental message to the public through
window displays and in-store visual merchandising.
In the twenty-first century, the latest challenge to the supremacy of the traditional
store is the Internet. Shopping from home is not only easier but also price-
competitive. Stores are under even more pressure to ensure that their customers
return and spend, and it is the visual merchandiser who will be key to attracting and
retaining their attention. Fortunately, shopping has always been a social activity, and
the thrill of it will always be the major part of the consumer experience. Whether
shoppers are out to discover an unexpected bargain, find an item sought for a long
time, or meet up with friends while browsing, it is the job of the retailer to guarantee
that they not only purchase but have a positive retail experience. With the help of
good visual merchandising, this can easily be achieved.
In the larger department stores, men’s fashion collections such as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, and Dior sit
together in one area to create the men’s designer room. The design of the floor layout demonstrates carefully
considered use of visual merchandising: note its cleverly positioned fixtures, clear signage, and the use of the
window at the back of the cash desk, which creates a focal point for customers entering the department.
The Role of a Visual
Merchandiser
“We are the guys backstage who are stage-managing and producing
the whole effect, whereas the buyers are writing the story and
providing the content. We are the ones who have to bring it to life.”
Alannah Weston, Creative Director, Selfridges
The use of dramatically posed mannequins and simple graphics applied to both the wall and floor create a stunning
in-store display at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong.
Above all, an unbiased outlook is paramount. A successful store may already have its
own winning creative formula, and although the visual merchandising manager may be
willing to listen to suggestions, he or she will usually want someone with a commercial
mind who can help support the existing team. A nonpersonal view and unopinionated
attitude toward the product you may be asked to work with are necessary. A good
visual merchandiser can work with the ugliest and most unsympathetic of products
and still come up with great results.
The visual merchandiser puts the finishing touches to the grouping before adjusting the lighting, cleaning the
window, and inspecting it from outside.
Large visual merchandising teams may designate specific roles for individuals to
maximize their resources. Individual visual merchandisers working for smaller retailers
may be expected not only to dress the windows but to arrange for the outside glass
to be cleaned regularly. The responsibilities of visual merchandisers seldom stop
solely at dressing mannequins.
Training
“Visual and merchandising standards are extremely important to us.
We educate our staff on an ongoing basis, including seasonal styling
seminars and store visits, to ensure there is consistency on a national
level. To ensure consistent merchandising standards, we supply visual
staff nationally with a ‘bible’ that outlines the company’s visual
standards and guide-lines for all areas and departments. Visually, we
develop extremely detailed directives that are sent out on a monthly
basis to all stores. At the end of each season, we conduct a post-
mortem exercise across the country for each installation, providing an
individual critique.”
John Gerhardt, Creative Services Director, Holt Renfrew
Those wishing to enter the profession will usually take a specific visual
merchandising course at a college or university and then seek work experience
in-store, or they can apply directly to a store for work experience.
There are several visual merchandising courses available. Students are likely to learn
how to place products together, create and install windows, and merchandise shop
floors. Many courses will also give an insight into the advantages of the use of color,
lighting, and branding. By using many practical exercises together with theory, these
two-year courses give a good insight into the world of visual merchandising and
provide the student with a useful and recognized qualification.
Short courses are also offered to would-be store owners who prefer a fast-track
education and may want to learn specific aspects of visual merchandising.
As in many other careers, work experience can be a valuable asset. And in this
industry it is common to rely heavily on work-experience students to fill many
positions. As Mark Briggs, creative director from London’s Harrods, explains,
“Students doing their work placement at Harrods get to cover all aspects of visual
merchandising. They get to handle every category of product so that they not only get
an understanding of the items but also so they can decide which area they would like
to excel in: home, fashion, food, or beauty.” Briggs develops experts for every
product category in the store; a fashion dresser may not necessarily be confident at
grouping kitchenware, for example.
Young, eager students on work experience—depending on the time of year and the
schedule of the visual merchandising team—can find themselves working on a window
or sent to clean the stockroom. Either way, their efforts are often recognized, and in
a career where visual merchandisers hop from one store to another, positions often
become available for those in the right place at the right time. The visual
merchandising teams will rely on a full head count to fulfill their hectic programs.
Mark Briggs of Harrods recruits most of his 67 staff as students. After completing
work experience, they go on to assist him dressing 1.25 miles (2 km) of window
space and merchandising 1,000,000 sq ft (92,903 square metres) of shop floor. Mark
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
haussant sa visière, il poussa jusqu'à l'étendard, et là il fut entouré
par les principaux de la troupe, lesquels demeurèrent plus
qu'étonnés de son étrange figure.
Don Quichotte les voyant attentifs à le considérer sans lui
adresser la parole, voulut profiter de leur silence et leur parla en ces
termes: Braves seigneurs, je vous supplie de ne point interrompre le
discours que je vais vous adresser, à moins que vous ne le trouviez
ennuyeux, car, dans ce cas, au moindre signe, je mettrai un frein à
ma langue et un bâillon à ma bouche. Tous répondirent qu'il pouvait
parler, et qu'ils l'écouteraient de bon cœur; notre héros continua
donc de la sorte: Mes chers amis, je suis chevalier errant; ma
profession est celle des armes et me fait un devoir de protéger ceux
qui en ont besoin. Depuis plusieurs jours je connais votre disgrâce et
la cause qui vous rassemble pour tirer vengeance de vos ennemis.
Après avoir bien réfléchi sur votre affaire, et consulté les lois sur le
duel, j'ai conclu que vous avez tort de vous tenir pour offensés, et
en voici la raison: un seul homme ne peut, selon moi, offenser une
commune entière, si ce n'est pourtant en l'accusant de trahison en
général, comme nous en avons un exemple dans don Diego
Ordugnez de Lara, qui défia tous les habitants de Zamora[100],
ignorant que c'était le seul Vellidos Dolfos qui avait tué le roi son
maître. Or, cette accusation et ce défi les offensant également, la
vengeance en appartenait à tous en général et à chacun en
particulier. Dans cette occasion, néanmoins, le seigneur don Diego
s'emporta outre mesure, et dépassa de beaucoup les limites du défi,
car il n'y avait aucun motif pour y comprendre avec les vivants, les
morts, l'eau, le pain, les enfants à naître, et tant d'autres
particularités dont son cartel contient l'énumération; mais lorsque la
colère a débordé et s'est emparée d'un homme, aucun frein n'est
capable de le retenir.
Paris, S. Raçon, et Cie, imp.
Furne, Jouvet et Cie, édit.
Mes chers amis, je suis chevalier errant
(p. 416).
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