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Buildguide Monotropa v31

This document is a detailed build guide for the Monotropa v3, outlining the steps for soldering resistors, capacitors, IC sockets, and other components. It includes instructions for testing the assembled device and troubleshooting common issues. Additionally, it provides modification options for altering frequency bands and credits the design inspirations.

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Peter de Haan
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15 views3 pages

Buildguide Monotropa v31

This document is a detailed build guide for the Monotropa v3, outlining the steps for soldering resistors, capacitors, IC sockets, and other components. It includes instructions for testing the assembled device and troubleshooting common issues. Additionally, it provides modification options for altering frequency bands and credits the design inspirations.

Uploaded by

Peter de Haan
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Monotropa v3 Buildguide

Resistors:
Start with soldering these resistors. The value of the resistors are written on the tape.
If you are unsure, use a Multimeter to check the value.
f1, f2 10r
r1, r8, r10, r15 1.8k
r7 2k2
r3, r4, r5, r6, r12, r13, r16 10k
r19, r20, r21 1k

Next up are the resistors that determine the frequency bands. If you want to modify these
frequencies, see below for more information.
r2 130k
r9 110k
r11 82k
r14 68k

IC sockets:
Solder the 2x 14pin IC sockets to u1 and u2. Take care to orientate them properly. The notch on one
end should match the silkscreen. First solder just 2 opposite pins and check if the socket is aligned
flat to the pcb. If not, slightly press down on the socket and reheat the pins.
Now solder all remaining pins. Leave the IC's out for now.
Capacitors:
The 4x 100nF ceramic capacitors are installed 'standing up'.

c4, c5, c21, c23 100nF


c25 10pF

The film capacitors (the blocky ones) also determine the frequency bands.
The value is written on top. Start with the smaller sized caps.
c1 1uf
c6 22nF
c7 470nf
c9 10nf
c8 82nF or 100nf
c10 2.2nf
c11 33nf
c12 1nf

The electrolythic capacitors have an orientation. The longer leg is PLUS.


There is also a small + sign on the pcb. Make sure you place them correctly!
The value is printed on the side of the parts.

c2, c3 10uF
c13, c27, c28 1uf

Power header:
Insert the 10pin shrouded power header in place. This part also has an orientation; the open side.
Make sure the part matches the silkscreen marking on the pcb.
Then solder one pin and check if the header is aligned correctly. If not, slightly press the header and
reheat the pin. It should click into place. Now solder all remaining pins.

IC's:
Take the TL084 IC's out of the foam. Bend the legs to 90 degrees using a flat surface.
Then insert it while taking care that the notch matches the IC socket (and silkscreen on the pcb)
Press both the IC's firmly into the sockets.

Take a break! Drink some tea or go outside :)

Potmeters and jacks:


Flip the pcb and insert the potmeters into the pcb. Also insert the jack sockets. DON'T solder yet!
Now place the panel. Use one or two nuts to hold the panel in place.
Now solder one pin of each pot and jack. Remove the panel and check if the pots are aligned.
The jacks will be slightly raised from the pcb. Don't worry about them, as long as the pins are
sticking through, they are fine. If you are unsure, slightly press down on the jack and reheat. It
should click flat to the pcb. If all is correct, continue to solder all pins.

Panel:
Mount the panel to the pcb and secure all the nuts. Carefully tighten them using the correct tools.

Knobs:
Turn all pots fully CCW and place the knobs. Take care that all lines point to the same angle.
Then push them firmly to the pcb, while holding the back of the pcb.
Time to test!
As a last check, look over the pcb and check the soldering, check for shorts and polarity.
Insert the power cable and connect it to your modular system.
Turn on the power. Check if nothing blows! If all is well, proceed:
Patch one of the two outputs to a mixer. (the two jacks on the right)
Set both the Feedback knob and Gain knob to fully CW. (the lower two knobs)
The four frequency knobs will now self resonate, when turned CW. Try each band.
You should hear low, mid, mid/high, and high tones. It works!

Set the Gain to CW and the Feedback to 12 'o' clock.


Patch a drum sound to one of the two inputs. (left two jacks). Patch the output to a mixer.
Try out different settings. You should hear distortions and resonating sounds.
Refer to the sound manual for other patch ideas and a guide to all functions.

Troubleshooting:
Check the orientation of both IC's, the polarised capacitors, the power header.
Did you insert the IC's? Check the soldering. reflow pins if needed.

Modification:
You can alter the frequency bands. Use parts that are near these values:
The capacitor and resistor pairs are linked to the four potmeters.

POT1 = c1, c6 and r2


POT2 = c7, c9 and r9
POT3 = c8, c10 and r11
POT4 = c11, c12 and r14

63Hz 1270nF, 22nF, 130k


160Hz 503nF, 10nF, 110k
410Hz 200nF, 4.7nF, 91k
1KHz 80nF, 2.2nF, 82k
2.5KHz 33nF, 1nF, 68k
7.7KHz 12.2nF, 470pF, 62k
16KHz 4.7nF, 220pF, 51k

Credits:
CC-BY-SA
Part of the EQ was inspired by the Musicthingmodular Graphic EQ / Boss GE7 circuit.
The rest of the design, feedback loop, mixer amp stages, external routing, mods are by:
www.reverselandfill.org
[email protected]

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