Plain Weave

Classification of Basic Weave:

There are three types of basic weaves. They are as follows:
∙ Plain Weave
∙ Twill Weave
∙ Satin or Sateen Weave.
Characteristics of Plain Weave:
∙ Both sides of the weave are identical.
∙ It comprises a high production of the total output of woven fabric.
∙ The plain weave is made from all kinds of raw materials and yarns, i.e.,
Cotton, Linen, Jute, Man-made fibres both spun and continuous filament yarn.
∙ Thread interlacement is in alternative order.
∙ Each thread gives maximum amount of support to the adjacent threads.
∙ Texture is stronger and finer than any other structure.
∙ Friction as well as stress on warp yarn is reduced by “Skip draft”.
Ornamentation of Plain Cloth:
Ornamentation of Plain cloth can be done –
∙ By using extremely fine yarn, E.g. Muslin
∙ By using coarse yarn, E.g. Jute Hessian
∙ By using threads of different colors which are combined in check form.
∙ By using the threads on both warp and weft that may vary in color and count.
∙ By using Fancy Slub Yarn.
∙ By using two warp beam in different tension.
∙ By using different twisted yarn
∙ By using different textile materials.
∙ By using special shaped reed.

Some Trade Names of Plain Cloth:

∙ Muslin
∙ Linen
∙ Alpaca
∙ Taffeta
∙ Calico
∙ Long Cloth
Approximately square cloth: Warp faced cloth:
∙ Warp count = weft count. • Prominences of warp yarn are
∙ Thread density equal i.e. E.P.I. = P.P.I. more than that of weft yarn.
∙ Warp and weft faces are equal on both sides of • Finer warp yarn but coarser weft
the cloth. yarn.
∙ Warp crimp = weft crimp. • Warp crimp > Weft crimp.
∙ Warp cover factor = Weft cover factor. • Fabric shrinkage to the warp.

Fabric specification: Fabric specification:

Uses: Cheese cloth, surgical dressing, tracing cloth. Uses: Gavadin, Terylene.
Weft faced cloth: Unbalanced cloth:
∙ Prominences of weft yarn are more than that of
warp yarn.
∙ Finer weft yarn but coarser warp yarn.
∙ Weft crimp > Warp crimp
∙ Fabric shrinkage to the weft.
∙ Production cost of this fabric is high.

Fabric specification:

Uses: Cotton lirnbric, cotton casement cloth etc.

Balanced cloth:
∙ Warp count = Weft count.
∙ EPI = PPI
∙ Warp and weft faces are equal on both sides of the
fabric.

Fabric specification:
 Derivatives of Plain weave:

Plain Weave

Rib Weave Matt Weave

Warp Rib Weft Rib

Regular Matt

Irregular
Matt
Regular Warp Regular Weft
Rib Rib Stitched Matt

Irregular
Irregular Fancy Matt
Warp Rib
Weft Rib
 Plain Weave (Warp & Weft Rib)

Features of Warp Rib:

∙ It produces ribs or cords in the warp direction.
∙ Normally finer yarn is used as warp and coarser one as weft.
∙ If the number ends are more than the number of picks in a unit space, then yarn of
same count may be used.
∙ Two or more weft yarns pass over or under a warp.
∙ Low twisted yarn is used in weft.
∙ Mercerized yarns are used and normally two heald shafts are used
∙ Uses: Normally used in warp faced constructions, such as poplin fabric.

Regular warp Rib: Irregular warp Rib:

∙ In bundle, the no of weft yarn is equal. ∙ In bundle the no of weft yarn is different /unequal.
∙ Found regular appearance in fabric. ∙ Irregular appearance is shown in the fabric.

∙ Formula number = ∙ Formula number =

[Repeat size = 2 x A] [x and y both weft yarn and R.S = 2 x A]
 X X X X X X X X
16 16
X X X X X X X X
15 15
X X X X X X X X
14 14
X X X X X X X X
13 13
X X X X X X X X
12 12
11 X X X X 11 X X X X

X X X X X X X X
10 10
9 X X X X 9 X X X X
8 X X X X 8 X X X X
7 X X X X 7 X X X X
6 X X X X 6 X X X X
5 X X X X 5 X X X X
4 X X X X 4 X X X X
3 X X X X 3 X X X X
2 X X X X 2 X X X X
1 X X X X 1 X X X X
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Regular Warp Rib Irregular Warp Rib

Features of Weft Rib:
∙ It produces ribs or cords in the weft direction.
∙ Normally finer yarn is used as weft and coarser one as warp.
∙ If the numbers of picks are more than the number of ends in a unit
space, then yarn of same count may be used.
∙ Two or more warp yarns pass over or under a weft yarn.
∙ Two heald shafts are used.
∙ Uses: Blankets, Hair cords etc.

Regular weft rib: Irregular weft rib:

∙ In bundle equal no of warp yarn. ∙ In bundle, unequal no of warp yarn .
∙ Regular appearance. ∙ Irregular appearance.

Formula number = Formula number =

.[x = No of warp yarn in rib. R. S – Ax 2] [x and y individually indicates the no of warp yarn. RS- Ax2]
 X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X X X
# #

Regular Weft Rib Irregular Weft Rib

 Plain Weave (Matt Weave)
Features of Matt weave:
∙ Matt weave is constructed by extending the plain weave both warp and weft / vertically or
horizontally.
∙ Combination of warp and weft Rib.
∙ It is heavier than a square fabric made from the same yarn but thickness will be same.
∙ Greater resistance to tearing.
∙ Loose structure.
∙ Matt weaves tend to give smooth surfaced fabrics and more flexible fabrics and more
flexible fabrics than plain weave.
Regular Matt: Irregular matt:
∙ May be same count yarn and No of warp yarn ∙ In same repeat, the no of warp and weft is
= No of weft yarn. different.
∙ Combination of regular warp rib and Regular ∙ Combination of irregular warp rib and weft rib
weft Rib
.
Formula number = matt Formula no = matt

[x = no of warp and weft yarn.] [x = no of warp; Y = no of weft yarn.]

 x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
# #
4 5
(4) (5+3)
4 3
Regular Matt Irregular Matt
Stitched matt:
∙ Stitch is used in matt.
∙ To avoid looseness of the yarns in the fabric.
stitch is used i.e. to produce firm cloth, stitch used,
∙ In warp face, the centered warp thread is lowered
and in weft face, the centre weft thread is up .

Example:

Fancy matt:
∙ Any rearranging except stitching of matt is called
fancy matt.
∙ It is produced by combining matt and warp and
weft rib.
 x x x x x x
x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x x x x x x x
# #
6 3 4
(6) stitched matt (3+2+4+1)
6 2 1
Fancy matt
End Uses

Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in muslin, blanket, canvas,

dhothi, saree, shirting, suiting, etc.
Advantages and disadvantages of plain weave fabric:
Advantages
• Wears well.
• Offers appropriate background for printing, special finishes, and applied
surface designs.
• Has good dimensional stability if of high fabric count, i.e. high thread
density.
• It is reversible if it is not printed or finished with special effects.
Disadvantages:
• Appears uninteresting
• Shows wrinkling
• Has lower tear strength than some other weaves
 Twill Weave

Definition of Twill Weave:

A weave that repeats on three or more picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric
is called Twill Weave. Twill Weave also can be defined as “The order of interlacing which causes
diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be formed on the cloth”.
∙ Diagonal lines are seen on the fabric.
∙ These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but
displacing the interlacing points of each end and by one pick relative to that of the
previous end.
∙ Twill lines are formed on both sides of the fabric (in opposite direction).
∙ Smallest repeat is 3 × 3.
∙ It is common practice to use straight draft for producing twill fabric.
∙ Three or more Heald shafts are required.
∙ Diagonal lines can be formed right to left or left to right.
∙ Greater weight than plain woven fabric due to closer settings of yarn.
FACTORS DETERMINING THE PROMINENCE OF TWILL
WEAVES

The following factors determine the relative prominence of twill weaves

(i) Nature of the yarn
(ii) Nature of the weave
(iii) The warp and weft threads/inch, and
(iv) The relative direction of twill and yarn twist
Nature of the yarn
The fineness of yarn and the amount of twist given to it influence the
prominece of the twill. A coarse yarn of lower twist produces a greater effect
on the twill as compared to a fine yarn of higher twist. On the other hand
doubled or ply yarns have a stronger effect on the twill as compared to single
yarns.

Nature of the weave

Twills with longer floats will give more prominence as compared to those
with shorter floats. For example, a 3/1 twill will be more prominent as
compared to a 2/2 twill.

Warp and weft threads/inch

The twill prominence increases proportionately with the increase in warp and
weft threads/inch.
Twill Angle
Twill angle is the angle which is produced by twill line with respect to
the horizontal line. This twill angle depends on the following factors.
• Ratio between EPI and PPI.
• Difference between warp and weft count.
• Rate of advancement of its interlacement warp and weft.
When the warp ends/inch is equal to the weft picks/inch, the twill angle
will be 45°. When the warp ends/inch exceeds the weft picks/inch the
twill angle will be an obtuse angle i.e., >45° (high angle or steep twill).
When the weft picks/inch exceeds the warp ends/inch, the twill angle
will be an acute angle i.e., <45° (low angle or flat twill).
Classification of Twill Weave
Derivatives of Twill weave
• Zig-zag or waved or pointed Twill weave
• Herringbone Twill weave
• Diamond design
• Diaper design
• Broken Twill weave
• Re-arranged Twill weave or Transposed Twill weave
• Stepped Twill weave
• Elongated Twill weave
• Combined Twill weave or combination of twill weave
• Shaded Twill weave or shaded design
• Curved Twill weave
Advantages and disadvantages of twill weave
Advantages
• Twill weaves usually make fabrics closer in texture, heavier, and stronger than do
plain weaves.
• It is possible to produce more fancy designs in twills than in plain weaves.
• The major advantages of a twill fabric are that it is durable and wears well, and has
good resistance to wrinkling

Disadvantages
• Twills are more expensive to produce than plain-weave fabric
• It is more difficult to clean than plain weave fabrics
• It usually has a right and wrong side which may make garment design difficult.
• Unless given special treatments, some uneven twill fabrics produce garments that
are prone to twisting or skewing on the body after laundering.
The advantages of a twill fabric are that it is durable and wears well, resists soiling,
and has good resistance to wrinkling.
Its disadvantages are that once soiled, it is more difficult to clean than plain weave
fabrics, and· it usually has a right and wrong side, which may make garment design
difficult.
End Uses of Twill Weaves
• Twill weaves find a wide range of applications such as suiting and
panting (denim, gaberdine), khaki uniforms, blankets, cover, screen,
bed sheet, towel, etc.