ARCAM A1 Manual
ARCAM A1 Manual
4 Maintenance
4.1 The Rake System
Rake positions: Fetch position left, Rest position left, Center position, Rest
position right, Fetch position right.
Rest position: The two rest positions are the positions where the rake
is stopped and waiting when it is not actively raking.
Center position: The center position is in the middle of the build tank.
The zero-point for the rake positions is located at the origin (on the
right side of the build tank) and increase to the right and decrease to
the left.
Menu > Hardware Setup > Powder dispatcher > Rake Calibration
menu:
1. Min and Max position: Before letting powder out set max and
min positions in the rake calibration by stepping/jogging the rake
until 4 mm from the hoppers on each side (the outermost positions
in the regulator). Save the min position on the left side and max
position on the right side.
Rake
4 mm
2. Rest position: to calibrate the two rest positions for the rake; in-
serting the heat shield and jog the rake until the heat shield flap
falls down.
A1: Jog the rake over the powder nipple and set the position when
the edge of the rake is 20 mm from the center of the powder nip-
ple, see picture below. Save both left and right rest positions.
A2: when the heat shield flap falls down, step 5 mm further to-
wards the powder hopper. Move the heat shield towards the left
when setting the left rest position, and move the heat shield to-
wards the right when setting the right rest position. The whole
rake (toblerone) has to pass the powder nipple in order to define
the rest position. Save both left and right rest positions.
Rest Position in A1
4. Powder slopes: Let powder out of the hoppers. Be aware how im-
portant it is to have the correct distance between the powder sen-
sor nipple and the base of the powder slope (from the powder
hopper). If new powder is being used, first pull vacuum with the
new powder in the hoppers, then open the chamber and check the
distance to the powder sensor nipple.
A1: If the distance is more than 50 mm, change to hopper outlets
with larger openings (i.e. from 28 mm to 32 mm). If the distance is
less than 40 mm change to smaller opening size. For CoCr 30-50
mm is OK. See picture below and for instructions see 4.1.2.
A2: If the distance is more than 20 mm, change to hopper outlets
with larger openings (i.e. from 28 mm to 32 mm). If the distance is
less than 15 mm change to a smaller opening size, see picture be-
low. For CoCr 10-20mm is OK.
Powder Slope
Rake
Fetched Powder
6. Rake sensors: Check that the powder pipes of the rake sensor are
centered under the screws of the sensor holes. Check the function
of the powder sensors by using the Rake Sensor Activity test on
the service page, Meny > Service Page. Pour a small amount of
powder through the sensor nipples and check for green light on
the screen.
7. When starting a new job: During the first layers, pay attention to
the amount of powder. If necessary, change the Initial Offset.
Press Reset Regulator. Also, if there is not enough powder to cov-
er the build area and still just one raking, increase the Zero
Threshold. During the following layers, check for the Optimal
Pulse Length, and adjust it if necessary (for a complete description
of all rake regulator parameters, see chapter 4.1.3).
Advanced setup
The advanced rake regulator parameters are defined in EBM Control
on the Menu > Machine Setup > Machine > Rake Regulator page.
“Time to wait for pulse” is the time the system will wait for a pulse if
there was a zero-pulse (i.e. an invalid pulse).
“Left and Right sensor max pulse” are time-out in the computer sys-
tem, parameter 120 (=1200ms). It is important that these times are
shorter than the “Time to wait for pulse”.
“Max optimal pulse length diff” is the max value that the regulator is
allowed to compensate for pulse difference between the left and right
sensors.
“Max zero pulses” is the max number of attempt the regulator will try
to get a valid pulse. After for example 3 attempts, the machine will
continue without a valid pulse.
There is a risk of injury. Do not put fingers between the rake unit
and the metal powder hopper or the build tank whenever the rake is
moving. Use protective gloves when changing the rakes.
Replace the rakes if the slits of the rakes are bent, stretched or spread
out.
1. Select the Menu > Setup > Hardware Setup > Powder dispatcher
page within the EBM Control software.
2. Turn on the rake by pressing the On button.
3. Move the rake unit to its center position by pressing the Center
position icon.
4. Turn off the rake by pressing the Off icon.
5. Loosen the rake unit from the linear vessel by un-tightening the
bolt (1) with a 13 mm wrench.
9. Pull out the Rake Insert and remove the Rake Blades.
10. When assembling the set of rakes, install the one pair of rakes mirror-
inverted to the other pair of rakes thus making the slits overlapping each
other.
11. Re-install the new set of rakes attached to the spacer back into the
rake unit.
12. Tighten up the 4 bolts pressing down the Rake Insert.
13. Attention: Vacuum the block before installing the rake unit.
14. Install the rake unit into the linear vessel and tighten the bolt.
There is a risk of injury. Do not put fingers between the rake unit
and the metal powder hopper or the build tank whenever the rake is
moving. Use protective gloves when changing the rakes.
Replace the rakes if the slits of the rakes are bent, stretched or spread
out.
1. Select the Menu > Setup > Hardware Setup > Powder dispatcher
page within the EBM Control software.
2. Turn on the rake by pressing the On button.
3. Move the rake unit to its center position by pressing the Center
position icon.
4. Turn off the rake by pressing the Off icon.
5. Loosen the rake unit from the linear vessel by un-tightening the
bolt (a) with a 13 mm wrench.
7. Disassemble the rake unit by pulling up the spacer (c) then push-
ing it out (d).
8. Attach two rakes to each other to assemble a pair of rakes to each
side of the spacer. There should be two pairs of rakes on each side
of the spacer making a total of four rakes for the assembly.
9. When assembling the set of rakes, install the one pair of rakes mirror-
inverted to the other pair of rakes thus making the slits overlapping each
other.
10. Re-install the new set of rakes attached to the spacer back into the
rake unit.
11. Attention: Before installing the rake unit make sure the upper sur-
face or the unit is smooth at insertion point (e) to prevent that the
rake alignment will be disturbed. If not smooth use some scotch
bright to clean. Also, vacuum the block before installing the unit.
12. Install the rake unit into the linear vessel and tighten the bolt.
Always do this if you suspect a smoke occurred during the build and
according to maintenance procedures . This is to prevent this powder
from contaminating the “process” powder.
Calibration instruction
To calibrate the beam, place a calibration plate in the chamber and
level the plate with the rake, as done with a start plate. Check the con-
dition of the observation window and the camera glass. Make sure that
the light in the chamber is satisfying. Change the front of the heat
shield to the specific calibration front. Insert the heat shield, fold back
the window blinding and pump vacuum. Turn the power supply on.
Enter the beam calibration page and switch the beam on to around 1
mA.
• The O and L keys are used for turning the beam on and off
• The I and K keys are used for increasing and decreasing the beam
current
• The F10 key is used for saving the calibration file
• The tab key is used for switching calibration mode
The first step is to make a rough calibration of the positions. This cali-
bration will be used when obtaining the focus and astigmatism values.
In the third and last step the positions are fine tuned within the cali-
bration holes. In this step it is important that the calibration plate is at
the right temperature. If the temperature is too low, switch off the
beam and start the heating until the calibration temperature lamp is
green.
To save the calibration in a calibration file, press the Save button on the
top of the page. If you would like to restart the calibration from the last
saved calibration file, press the Undo button at the top of the page.
When entering this calibration mode the chamber light will be turned
on to make it easier to see where the beam is located. Move the beam
with the following keys:
• A - left
• D - right
• W - up
• S - down
or with the arrows in the EBMControl GUI next to the corresponding
letters.
When the beam is within the hole, press Space bar to save the calibra-
tion in that hole or the Save button under the arrows. If the calibration
for this position hasn't been saved before moving to the next calibra-
tion position, the calibration of this point will be lost. Sometimes a
position (especially in the corners) can be very hard to calibrate. In
those cases that position can be ignored by pressing V or the ignore
button. Move to the next calibration position by using the arrow keys
on the keyboard or by pressing the arrows under the section hole in
the EBMControl GUI.
Focus/Astigmatism calibration:
When you are satisfied with the rough position calibration, move on
to the Focus and astigmatism calibration by pressing the Tab key.
The chamber light will now go off and the beam will appear a bit out-
side the hole to make it possible to determine when the beam is sharp
and round. Increase the beam current to approximately 2.0 mA. It
should be possible to have a sharp and white beam spot when the cor-
rect focus and astigmatism values are obtained.
A practical tip is to start with making the spot as round as possible and
then shrink it. Repeat until the spot is as small and sharp as possible.
The calibration hole is changed in the same way as it is for the rough
position calibration. For every hole:
• The focus is calibrated with Q and A or the plus and minus buttons
close to the letters.
• Astigmatism coil 1 is calibrated with keys W and S or the corre-
sponding plus and minus button.
• Astigmatism coil 2 is calibrated with keys E and D or the corre-
sponding plus and minus button.
In the same way as when the rough position calibration was made
every position needs to be saved or ignored.
There are two special functions for the Focus and astigmatism calibra-
tion: the Focus offset and Set astigmatism buttons. These functions can
be used to reset the values. This could be necessary for instance when
the machine is calibrated for the first time or if some major hardware
devices have been changed (beam column, deflection coils or amplifi-
ers.)
The Focus Offset button will take the difference between the old cali-
brated value and the new value for the point, and apply this difference
to all other points.
The Set astigmatism button will set all the astigmatism values for all
points to zero.
The last calibration step is the fine position calibration. When moving
to this step the beam jumps down in to the hole again. The procedure
for the fine calibration is similar to the rough position calibration
except that now the temperature must be within the limits. Use as low
current as possible in order to avoid a too high temperature. More-
over, this calibration will be more precise since now the focus and
astigmatism values will be correct.
The light will be turned off in fine position mode. Move the beam
within the hole such that the beam light will be minimized.
When all the calibration steps have been done, the quality of the cali-
bration can be analyzed by pressing the Calculator button and then
moving from the Plate tab to the Charts tab. Once the calculation but-
ton has been pressed, a calculation starts where all points are used to
fit a mathematical expression to the calibration. The difference
between the calculated value and the calibrated value is used to deter-
mine the quality of the calibration in each point. If the difference is
above the allowed value the point will be colored. The color will be red
or orange where red indicates the point with the largest difference.
Note that some points may look opaque. If you are in the position
mode such points mean that focus and astigmatism values are bad and
vice verse.
Before leaving the calibration page all red points should be recali-
brated. Always start with correcting the red point and then redo the
analyses to check if there are still some red points.
To get more information about the calibration and how it could be cor-
rected you can view the charts under the chart tab. Here you will find
five tabs: Pos, Focus calib, Focus calc, Ast calib and Ast calc.
Pos: The plot under the position tab shows which (if any) positions
that have to be recalibrated. A red arrow indicates the point that dif-
fers most from the calculated value. Orange arrows indicate positions
that also differ too much from the calculated polynomial. Note that the
direction and the length of the arrow indicate the direction and how
much the beam should be moved, use this information when trying to
recalibrate the point.
Focus calib and Focus calc: Under the Focus Calibration tab and the
Focus Calc tab the focus curves for the calibrated and the calculated
values are shown, respectively. Each color corresponds to a focus
interval. A good focus calibration should have a calculated pattern as
close as possible to concentric circles with a red circle in the middle
and blue in the corners (see figure below).
Ast calib and Ast calc: Under the Ast calib tab and the Ast calc tab the
calibrated and the calculated astigmatism values are displayed as
arrow plots. The x-value and the y-value of the arrows correspond to
the Ast 1 and Ast 2 signals, respectively. Both the direction and the size
of the arrows should follow a smooth pattern with no abrupt changes.
- Arcam EBM systems using EBM Control 3.2 with low 220x220, dia
310 or high 220x220 mm build envelopes
Procedure
Align the verification plate with use of the rake on top of a calibration
plate. The verification plate should be placed in the center of the build
tank. When the verification plate is in position make sure there are no
powder particles on the plate. Put in the heat shield, close the chamber
door and pull vacuum.
- BeamVerificationPlate_A2-S12_F60
A1: A1
Just to be sure check that the right calibration plate has been loaded,
click on edit theme at the build envelope menu. Click Calibration -
Calibration article.
Edit theme
Select theme
S12 - PLATE7X7A
S12HIGH - PLATE7X7AHIGH
A1 - PLATE7X7A
A2LOW - PLATE7X7ALOW
A2HIGH - PLATE7X7AHIGH
Start up the High Voltage and use filament current 11,0 A (F120). Cen-
ter the verification plate and go to the Beam Alignment page. Do the
Beam Alignment as careful as possible and then press save. Run the
test plates in manual mode by clicking the Manual Controls icon on
the menu page.
The manual controls for melting a single layer will now appear:
Click on the Play button. Don't bother about the warnings saying that
there are no heater activated and that model clipping occurred. Next,
click on the melt same layer button:
It could take some time before the beam starts (~5 s). This is normal.
When the plate has been melted, Progress bar "Task" reaches 100%,
click on the Stop manual process mode button:
Then, ventilate and remove the plate. Write manually the date and
serial number of the actual machine on the plate. The position of the
Arcam logo should face the door.
Verification
The verification plate consists of four different types of tests.
Verify the test result by checking the following steps. Schematic draw-
ings will be shown from the BeamVerification Plate_A2S12_F60 plate.
Schematic view of the verification plate, with the four different tests.
Check that the lines of the inner cross are between the double lines of
the outer cross (cf. left figure below). If the inner and outer crosses do
not align, redo the beam alignment (cf. right figure below).
At each of the four corners and in the middle there are clusters of 21
lines in either horizontal or vertical direction. Each one of the 21 lines
corresponds to a certain focus offset value. The values range from -60
mA to +60 mA in steps of 20 mA. Note that the -10, -5 mA and +10, +5
mA lines have been skipped.
[ -60 --40 -35 -30 -25 -20 -15 0 +15 +20 +25 +30 +35 +40 +45 +55 +60]
The melted line in the middle of each cluster corresponds to focus off-
set equal to zero. Use a fiber tip pen to mark the last melted lines on
each side of focus offset=0. In the example below the last melted lines
are at -25 mA and +30 mA, respectively. In this case the focus range is
between -25 mA and +30 mA. Calculate the span in focus i.e. from -25
to +30 = 55mA. To be acceptable the focus offset range should be at
least 50mA. Moreover, the variation between different clusters should
not exceed +/- 5mA. As a starting point for the focus offset in the melt
theme the max focus reduced by 10 could be set. i.e. + 30- 10 = 20mA.
A more detailed explanation about focus offset is given in 4.2.3.
A schematic sketch over how the melt pool is changed with different
focus can be viewed below.
If the melt surface of a job does not look good, the focus offset value
can be changed in order to create a better surface and a better material.
The surface of the build can be studied to see if to increase or decrease
the offset.
From the picture above it can clearly be seen that different focus offset
effects the melt surface differently. The two melt surfaces to the right
shows how it can look it the focus offset value is too large. Pores and
voids, as described above, can easily be seen.
The two surfaces to the left represents what happens if the melt pool is
too narrow. The pores that can be formed by too narrow spot are hid-
den in the material. The dents and hills aroud the cotours, characteris-
tic of low focus offset can easily be seen. Another sign of too low focus
offset value is that the melt lines are clear ad distinctive.
In this picture the middle surface represents a good melt surface with
a good focus offset, but as stated above this applies only to this
machine.
The above discussion is only applicable to the focus offset in the melt.
Focus offset of the contour is different. Using Multibeam the focus off-
set of the contours should be set to zero.
Note: Never touch the control electrode unit directly with un-
protected hands. Use clean latex gloves. Always handle
the control electrode unit parts in a clean environment.
Corona ring
Control electrode
Note: Do not use the corona ring to counteract the torque on the upper part
of the upper column when disassembling the control electrode unit, or
the upper column could be twisted apart.
1. Remove the used filament by using the flat pliers. Only use the flat
pliers for replacing the filament. Grab the filament by one of the
two contacts and pull upwards.
2. Clean around and inside the hole on the underside of the control
electrode by rubbing with a cotton swab moistened with the prop-
er cleaning agent.
3. Clean around the lower diameters and planes on the inner side of
the control electrode (see picture below) with proper cleaning
agent and a cotton swab (Q-tip).
4. Spray the control electrode with the proper cleaning agent, wipe
with a clean micro fiber rag and use compressed air to blow the
dowel holes clean.
5. Put the control electrode aside for re-assemble (protect it from
dirt).
6. Grab the new filament by one of the two contacts using the flat pli-
ers. Gently place the filament straight down in the control elec-
trode, with the notch aligned with the pin. Do not twist and do not
force the filament into place.
Contact
Notch
7. Attention: Always make sure that the tip of the filament is cen-
tered in the small hole.
1. Disassemble the locking ring of the bayonet by using the big nut
setter until the bayonet catch ring can be lifted out. Lift out the
bayonet catch ring and the locking ring of the control electrode.
2. Remove metallized areas around and inside the hole on the un-
derside of the control electrode, by polishing with Scotchbrite
type “ultra fine”.
3. Rub the lower planes and the center hole of the control electrode
by using a cotton swab (Q-tip), moistened with one of the recom-
mended cleaning agents.
Note: Do not use more cleaning agent than necessary and wipe
away excessive amounts by using a cloth or Q-tip.
4. Spray the control electrode with proper cleaning agent and then
blow the dowel pin holes with well filtered, clean compressed air.
5. Spray the bayonet catch ring and the locking ring with proper
cleaning agent.
6. Before mounting: make sure ever part is DRY.
7. Mount the bayonet catch ring on the control electrode and tight
with the big nut setter. Make sure that the threads are properly
aligned before tightening.
Attention: Make sure that control electrode is tightened properly
with the big nut setter. The gap between the control electrode and
the bayonet catch ring should be about 0.5 mm.
8. Put the control electrode unit aside for re-assembling, while pro-
tecting it from dirt.
a b
1. Use clean powder free latex gloves and place a clean paper sheet
on a table.
2. Remove the copper contactor pin casings (a) from the copper con-
tactor springs. Clean the metallization from the tip of the casings
with Scotchbrite. Place them on the clean paper sheet.
3. Remove the copper contactor springs (b) from the filament con-
nector feedthrough. Place them on the clean paper sheet.
4. Use a “pressed-together” Q-tip, (press together the cotton part of
the Q-tip with help of the flat pliers), spray the Q-tip with Eco-
Solve. Repeat with new Q-tips until there is no more dirt visible.
5. Inside the filament contactor feedthrough: Clean the two ceramic
cylinders (c), thoroughly with the flattened cotton swab.
6. Also, clean all surfaces inside the filament contactor feedthrough
until the Q-tip looks clean.
7. Place the copper contactor springs in the filament connector pins
Anode
Anode Plate
Drift Tube
The Anode
Corona ring
Control electrode
Middle column
To achieve a fast cool down time the contact between the Heat Sink
and the start plate is critical. It’s therefore recommended that the Heat
Sink top is cleaned from powder before every run. With the build table
turned off and in the top position simply brush of the top with your
fingers, use gloves.
Insulation plate
3. Put some powder on top of the start plate and run the rake over it.
4. Adjust the start plate by turning the Adjustment Wheels.
5. The aim of the adjustment should be to get a powder surface that
resembles a leopard skin.
6. When the start plate is adjusted to the rake, make sure that the
start plate rest on all four screws. Do this by pressing down on
each corner of the plate. If there is a play, adjust that screw up-
wards.
7. Lower the build table 0.5 mm.
8. Remove the powder on top of the start plate (there should howev-
er be powder around the start plate).
8. Use the trolley to lift the build tank out of the machine. Adjust the
trolley’s fork to the appropriate height. Carefully slide the fork
into the holders on the Build Tank in order to lift it out of the
chamber.
9. Bring the lifting carriage and its load to the Powder Recovery Cab-
inet (PRS), see chapter 4.3.4.
2. Remove the V-block (i) and the extension block (j) (or put it back
if you are installing the 350x350x200 build unit).
3. Remove the powder sensors (k) with brackets (l). Replace the
brackets with the brackets of the appropriate size. Install the pow-
der sensors in the new brackets.
4. Flick the limit switch trigger (m) over.
10. Install the metallization plate, powder hoppers and heat shield.
11. In the calibration menu change to the right build envelope. Verify
the beam calibration according to chapter 4.2.1.
1. Place the build tank over the build table and attach it with the four
M6 bolts.
2. The build tank is adjustable with four M8 bolts, as a starting point
for calibration adjust the build tank to 451mm from chamber ceil-
ing.
3. Check the space between the build tank and table to make sure it
runs free.
4. Attach the micrometer to the M8 hole of the build table.
5. Place the micrometer pick-up against the inside of the left wall.
Move the build table until the micrometer is at the top end of the
build tank wall.
6. Move the build table down, using the software and the hand-held
keyboard. Note the value of the micrometer after the initial jerk.
The value shouldn't change more than +/-0.15 during a table
movement of 100mm.
7. To adjust the build tank, undo the M6 bolt and adjust with the M8
screws.
8. When the left wall is acceptable repeat the procedure with the
front wall.
9. As a confirmation you could test the right wall and the back wall.
10. Check that the space between the build table and the build tank is
even all around.
11. Install the insulation rope.
3. Put the ceramic rope in the groove along the walls of the build
tank.
4. Cut the ends of the rope diagonal to let them overlap each other.
5. Put the plate back and tighten the screws.
Calibration rake
Step 1:
Step 2:
1. Move the rake to the most left position (in the tank) and place the
indicator clock in front of the calibration rake. Carefully raise the
table. Avoid measuring during the first part of the z-movement, as
the build table makes a slight "jerk" when starting or shifting di-
rection. Do not let table touch the calibration rake.
2. Adjust the position of the indicator clock so you can see both a
positive and a negative value. Zero the scale.
3. Lower the table and note any difference of start and stop point.
4. Loosen the mounting bolts for rake bars (2 each side).
5. Adjust the alignment of the bars using shims (or pieces of rake
blades (0,1mm thick)) behind the rake bar blocks.
6. Tighten mounting bolts for the rake bar blocks.
7. Repeat 2 to 7 until good results are achieved, approved is 0.05 mm
over approx. 100 mm table travel.
8. Then do the same on the right side. When it's ok on the right side,
check again the left again to be sure.
Step 3:
After alignment of the rake towards the build table it is necessary to
check the rake towards the powder table.
Use gloves!
The Insulated Heat Shield has exchangeable sheet metals. These sheet
metals allows a clean inside surface of the heat shield for every build.
The clean, reflective surface reflects the heat, insulating the build area.
Clean shields will also minimize metallization flakes and oxygen
pickup in the powder. One layer of sheet metals are used for Ti6Al4V
and two layers are used for CoCr and TiAl.
5. Check the metallization flaps, wire and key rings for damage. Re-
place if necessary.
6. Clean the frame from metallization on the inside corners.
7. Place new sheet metals on the frame. The old sheet metals can be
used on the second and third layer (if used). As these sheet metals
have a longer lifespan.
8. With the shield in an upright position, start hanging the side sheet
metals on the hooks. Starting with the inner slot first. Two sheet
metals should never use the same slot as this short-cuts the heat
insulation.
Battery location
Trolley Battery
When placing a tool in the stand, you need to open the quick lock
before the tool can be released.
If you find it difficult to align the trolley with the machine when load-
ing/unloading powder hoppers in the machine, it is suggested to cre-
ate guide lines using tape on the floor to help the alignment.
Observe: If you have any problem with the Trolley Stand or the Trol-
ley Tools contact an Arcam personnel immediately.
Picking up a tool
The tools for the build tank and the powder hoppers are shown on the
stand in the picture below.
It is important to run the ballast on the main pump for 5-10 minutes on
level 1 every 100 hours, especially during the summer when humidity
is high. The switch is located on the main pump.
Attention: never stop the vacuum pumps when the pressure is below
400 mBar.
To remove the powder surrounding the melted parts after a build, use
the powder recovery system (PRS). It uses the powder itself as a clean-
ing media, and most powder may be recycled and reused. Add one
scoop of powder before starting the cleaning process. Clean most of
the powder out of the recovery cabinet and lower collection box after
each cleaning.
Manual Sieve
It is important not to turn the manual sieve inside the powder barrel
since this may result in contamination of the powder. When the sieve
is clogging use clean air to remove the metal residue.
Pneumatic Sieve
Make sure that the right mesh is used for the pneumatic sieve. When
the sieve is clogged use clean air to remove the metal residue.
EBM Machine
1. Remove powder hoppers from the machine and empty them into
a barrel. Vacuum clean and wipe the hoppers with ECO-solvent.
2. Remove the powder table and its brackets on the chamber walls.
3. Remove the build tank from the chamber.
4. Remove the heat protection plate in the back of the chamber
(blocking the linear vessels of the rake system).
5. Vacuum clean the chamber, pay attention around feed throughs
in the back wall and the mesh in front of the turbo pump.
6. Wipe all chamber surfaces with ECO-solvent.
7. Restore the chamber and load the hoppers with the new powder.
8. Perform Rake Calibration, according 4.1.1, and look over the Rake
Regulator Parameters, 4.1.3.
Attention! It is important to do this after changing powder since
different powder has different flow ability, even if it is the same
material.
Powder Barrels
Vacuum clean and wipe with ECO-solvent.
Note 2: Nitrogen (N) and hydrogen (H) need to be analyzed only under special circumstances,
e.g. if hot powder has been inadvertently exposed to air. During a normal recycling procedure,
there is no need to analyze N and H.
Mixing powder
A good procedure for mixing powders is to mix in small portions fol-
lowed by sifting. For example:
Here are some examples in which the chemical analysis could give
unreliable results:
Water is a more crucial factor for oxygen pickup than air leaks. A
water pressure in the high 10-5 mbar range gives the same oxygen
pickup as an air leak of about 1x10-3 mbar. As a matter of fact, we
always have water in the 10-5 mbar range in the EBM machine. The
vacuum is dominated by water at all times.
The highest water pressure is during the first 1-2 hours of a build.
Therefore, material built during the first 1-2 hours will have a higher
oxygen content than the rest of the build. Thus, if you perform a chem-
ical analysis with Ti material from the early layers, you might get a
oxygen content which is not representative for the whole build.
Recommendations
1. The best storage for Ti powder is inside the EBM machine,
pumped down to vacuum or filled with a dry gas (He, Ar, N2).
2. When a build is finished and has cooled down below 100C in 400
mbar He, the powder remaining in the hoppers has gone through
a “vacuum-drying process”. To keep this powder dry, fill up the
chamber to 1000 mbar with a dry gas (He, Ar, N2). This is better
than filling with ordinary air, because ordinary air contains mois-
ture which will go right into the dry powder.
3. Reload the EBM machine as quickly as possible, to minimize ex-
posure to moist air. Do not leave the machine open for hours.
4. Whenever possible, let the machine pump overnight before start-
ing the next build.
5. Pack the Ti parts as tightly as possible on the start plate. Remem-
ber: it is only titanium inside the preheating box that picks up ox-
ygen. The more powder you preheat, the more oxygen you pick
up.
6. Keep a low relative humidity (RH) in all areas where powder is
handled. We recommend dehumidifiers.
7. If powder is stored outside the EBM machine, keep it in closed
containers away from moisture. Do not “store” Ti powder inside
the PRS cabinet. To avoid condensation, do not store powder be-
low room temperature.
8. Take every measure to keep water away from the powder. For ex-
ample, do not wet sweep the floor while the EBM machine is open.
A wet floor immediately gives a very high RH.
9. Make sure that the pressurized air in the PRS is dry (and oil-free
of course).
Rough pump: Run the ballast on the rough pump for 10 minutes
on level 2 to clear out any moisture trapped in the pump.
Vacuum Cleaner
Check that the filters are OK and that they sit correctly.
PRS Cabinet
Check that the gloves are OK.
Check that the Magnetic Separator is clean.
Helium Bottle
Check the level of Helium and that the pressure is ~ 1bar.