Winnie the Dragon Pattern

By Red Mill’s Crochet

Through all the dragons I`ve made so far, Winnie is by far my

favorite to date! I`ve been working towards getting a less “chibi”
looking shape and something more fluid and realistic. I definitely
believe that was achieved here with Winnie!
This whimsical little gal will work up into about a 3 foot dragon
*using bernat blanket yarn*.
Fair warning: you might shed a tear once you finish, either from the
overload of cuteness or from the wrist pain if you decided to do this
all-in-one sitting!
I hope you enjoy this pattern and what you create with it as much
as I did! Don't forget to take pictures and tag me
(@redmills_crochet) so I can see your beautiful creations!
Happy hooking <3 -Millie
1/20
Pattern Tester Appreciation!

@karicrochets_ @hanner_gurumi

@crochet_nuna @hotoffthehook.bycatie

@kp_crochetcreations @crystalline.crochet.co

2/20
Pattern Tester Appreciation!

@mostlyghostlycrafts @kools_katscrochet

@whimsical.knots @pinkmewcrochet @dcraft_store

@goldie.crochet @chibi.n.stitch

3/20
for this you'll need:
Supplies
a 5.0mm, 5.5mm, or 6mm hook (your preference)
Chenille or blanket yarn, need at least 2 colors (amounts listed below.)
Fiber Fill Stuffing
Black yarn (for embroidery)
Optional: fur yarn
Optional: safety eyes (size is crocheter’s choice)
A yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (optional, I don’t use one)
For this project, I tested it out myself with Bernat Blanket Yarn.
I used a full skein of Bernat blanket Yarn which usually comes in a skein
of 300g and I used a 5.0 clover hook for the dragon.
*You might want a 2nd skein to be safe.*
Other yarns such as Chenille home, Premier chunky Parfait or XL parfait,
and sweet snuggles lite would all be decent yarns to use for this project
if you're able to find the color you want to use :)
Just expect your dragon to turn out bigger if you're using a thicker yarn
or smaller if you’re using thinner yarn.
Also, I used “fur the love” from hobby lobby for the fur / feathery details.

buy Bernat Blanket here Buy Premier parfait chunky here

For this pattern, I will refer to colors as “A, B, C, etc...” so as to avoid

confusion. I used my white dragon for photos.
Color A: White - Head, body, limbs, ears (approx. 240g of BBY)
Color B: Tan- horns and wings (not measured - did not use much)
Color C: (fur yarn) (not measured-did not use much)
4/20
CH – Chain
Terms to Know
SC – Single Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
INC - Increase
HDC INC - A Half Double Crochet Increase
DEC - Decrease
MR – Magic Ring (probably won’t use)
TW - Turn Work
SLST - Slip Stitch
INC the RND (2 sc in each stitch of the entire round)
** This pattern is worked in continuous rounds or with a slip
stitch between rounds, artist's preference :)

Gee wHiz info:

-Feel free to use either the Magic Ring method or the Chain 2 method
when working in the round on this pattern! :)
-If any of the links in the pattern don’t work, don’t panic, just let me
know and I`ll send them to you :)
- This pattern took on average, 5 hours total for myself and all of the
testers.
-Don’t forget to leave long tails foe sewing when you fasten off each
piece, including the tail pieces. 5/20
Body
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds
*stuff this piece firmly as you go and make sure it looks
smooth as you increase/decrease. You may have to shape
and stretch the body as you go and when you’re done to get
the desired look.
p.s. This is a marathon and I hope you’re ready.
R1: chain 2, 4sc into the first chain [4] p.p.s. Don’t forget to stuff and
shape the body as you go.
R2 - R6: 4sc around [5rnds]
You’ll want to add stuffing
R7: inc, 3sc [5] every couple of rounds to
R8 - R12: 5sc around [5rnds] make it easier for yourself!
R13: inc, 4sc [6]
R14 - R18: 6sc around [5rnds]
R19: inc, 5sc [7]
R20 - R24: 7sc around [5rnds]
R25: inc, 6sc [8]
R26 - R30: 8sc around [5rnds]
R31: inc, 7sc [9]
R32 - R36: 9sc around [5rnds]
R37: inc , 8sc [10]
R38 - R42: 10sc around [5rnds]
R43: inc, 9sc [11]
R44 - R48: 11sc around [5rnds]
R49: inc, 10sc [12]
R50 - R54: 12sc around [5rnds]
R55: inc, 11sc [13]
R56-R60: 13sc around [5rnds]
cont. on next page 6/20
Body cont. You’re doing so great, 60 rounds in and we
haven’t even started the actual body yet.
R61: inc, 12sc [14]
R62 - R66: 14sc around [5rnds]
R67: inc, 13sc [15] Where you are
R68 - R70: 15sc around [3rnds]
R71: x3inc, 12sc [18]
R72 - R73: 18sc around [2rnds]
R74: (1sc, inc)x3, 12sc [21]
R75: (2sc, inc)x3, 12sc [24]
R76 - R77: 24sc around [2rnds]
R78: (inc, sc)x3, 3sc, (sc, inc)x3, 9sc [30]
R79 - R83: 30sc around [5rnds]
R84: (inc, 2sc)x3, (2sc, inc)x3, 12sc [36]
R85: 36sc around [36]
R86: (dec, 2sc)x3, (2sc, dec)x3, 12sc [30]
R87 - R91: 30sc around [5rnds]
R92: (dec, sc)x3, (sc, dec)x3, 12sc [24]
R93 - R94: 24sc [2rnds]
R95: (2sc, dec)x6 [18]
R96 - R101: 18sc around [6rnds]
Fasten off with a slst and leave a long tail for sewing.
Might wanna give your wrist a small break
here if you haven’t done so yet

7/20
Head
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds
**This piece will start out as a chain, you will work both
sides of the chain, and it will look like an oval to start with.
4,5,6 3 2 1 start in this chain
SC SC SC
turn your 3sc 3sc your starting
work chain of 5.
SC SC SC
7 8 9 10,11,12
R1: chain 5, (start in the 2nd chain from the hook) 3sc, x3sc in
the last chain, TW, 3sc, x3sc in the last chain [12]
R2: 3sc, inc, sc, inc, 3sc, inc, sc, inc [16]
R3 - R4: 16sc around [2rnds]
R5: 6inc, 10sc [22]
R6: inc, 8sc, inc, 12sc [24]
R7: (sc,inc)x6, 12sc [30]
R8: (inc, 2sc)x3 (2sc, inc)x3, 12sc [36]
R9 - R14: 36sc around [6rnds]
R15: (dec, 2sc)x3 (2sc, dec)x3, 12sc [30]
R16: (3sc, dec)x6 [24]
R17: 3dec, 4sc, 3dec, 8sc [18]
R18- R19: 18sc around [2rnds]
Fasten off with a slst, you can leave a tail here if you’d like
but we will be using the tail from the body to connect the
head. Don’t forget to stuff firmly.
*If using safety eyes: place them approx. between rows 7 and 8,
about 8 stitches apart.
I am usually able to center them from an increase that lands in
the center.
I embroider the eyelashes on at the same time before I insert the
washer to keep the eye in place. 8/20
Front Arms
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds - make 2
R1: chain 2, 6sc into the first chain
R2: (inc, 1sc)x3 [9]
R3 - R10: 9sc around (8 rnds)
-close off with a row of slsts, fasten off and leave a tail for
sewing. Stuffing is optional.

Thighs
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds - make 2
R1: chain 2, 6sc into the 2nd chain from the hook.[6]
R2: inc the rnd [12]
R3: (1sc, inc)x6 [18]
R4: (2sc, inc)x6 [24]
R5: 6dec, 12sc [18]
fasten off with a slst and leave a tail for sewing. Stuff lightly,
you can add more as you sew it onto the body.

Feet
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds - make 2
R1: Chain 2, 6sc into the2nd chain from the hook[6]
R2: (inc, 1sc)x3 [9]
R3 - R8: 9sc around (6 rnds)
Stuff lightly and close with a row of slsts, fasten off and
leave a tail for sewing.

9/20
Ears
Use color A, worked in continuous rounds - make 2
R1: Chain 2, 3sc into the 2nd chain from the hook [3]
R2: inc the rnd [6]
R3: (1sc, inc)x3 [9]
R4: 9sc
R5: (2sc, inc)x3 [12]
R6 - R7: 12sc around [2rnds]
R8: (3sc, inc)x3 [15]
R9: (3sc, dec)x3 [12]
R10: (2sc, dec)x3 [9]
R11: (1sc, dec)x3 [6]
R12: 6sc
Fasten off with a slst and leave a tail for sewing, do not stuff.

Horns
Use color B, worked in continuous rounds - make 2
R1: chain 2, 3sc into the 2nd chain from the hook
R2: 2sc, inc [4]
R3: 3sc, inc [5]
R4: sc 4, inc [6]
R5: dec, 1sc, inc, 2sc [6]
R6: dec, 1sc, inc, inc, 1sc [7]
R7: 1sc, inc, inc, inc, 1sc, dec [9]
R8: 9sc around [9]
R9: dec, 2sc, inc, 4sc [9]
You can stuff these lightly
R10: 3sc, inc, inc, 4sc [11]
before sewing on.
R11: 11sc around [11]
Fasten off w/ slst and leave a long tail for sewing. 10/20
Wings
Use color B, worked in rows - make 2
R1: chain 8, (start in 2nd chain from hook in every row) 1sc,
6hdc, ch.1, TW
R2: 4sc, ch.3, TW This is where you’ll sc across the
top for a smoother look
R3: sc, 4hdc, hdc inc, Ch.1, TW
R4: 4sc, ch.3, TW
R5: sc, 4hdc, hdc inc, ch.1, TW
R6: 4sc, ch.3, TW
R7: sc, 4 hdc, hdc inc, ch.1, TW (yes, I lost yarn chicken while making these,
don’t make fun of me)
R8: 4sc, ch.5, TW
R9: sc, 7hdc, ch.1, sc along the top of the wing towards the
original tail, this will make it look more even.
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing
Optional: SC the fur yarn along the outer parts of the wings

Tail Piece #1 (Diagram on next page)

Use color B and C (fur yarn) worked in a round - make 1
-start in color B so you can see the chains while you work
-Chain 13, change to the fur yarn and start in the 2nd
loop from the hook.
-2sc, 10 hdc, TW to the unused side, 10hdc, 1sc, 1slst
fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

11/20
Tail Piece diagram (this is just an example) 2.change to
fur yarn and
1.starting chain in color C start here
hdc hdc hdc hdc sc sc
Turn
Work
hdc hdc hdc hdc sc slst 3.fasten off
with a tail for
sewing

Tail Piece #2
Use color B and C (fur yarn) worked in a round - make 2
-start in color B so you can see the chains while you work
-Chain 9, change to the fur yarn and start in the 2nd loop
from the hook.
-2sc, 6 hdc, TW to the unused side, 6hdc, 1sc, 1slst
fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

12/20
 Assembly
recommended assembly order:
1. Ears to head 6. Feet to thighs/body
2. Horns to head 7. Arms to body
3. Head to body 8. Wings to body
4. Fur stripe from head to tail 9. Tail pieces to tail
5. Thighs to body 10. Finishing touches

Sew ears to the head

Fold the ears so that there is an
indent in the center of them.
The front/top part of the ear
should land at about round 12
towards the top of the head.
The bottom/front of the ear
should be at about round 13/14
for a slanted downward look.
You might want to use safety
pins to hold the shape of the ear
in place while you sew.
Mine are about 12-13 stitches apart for a sleepier look or
8-9 stitches apart for a sprightlier look when you are
looking from the top of the head down.
She low-key looks like a lamb at this stage but, no worries,
she’ll be a ferocious dragon baby in no time!
13/20
Sew horns to the head
Sew the horns on just at the top
of and just behind the ears, I
don’t have an exact placement, I
just try my best to make them
look as even as possible from the
center.
You can choose to stuff lightly.
Sew head to body
Make sure the flat side of the belly
is facing down and that the
increases of the back are lined up
with the top of the head.
You should wind up with
something a little like this...kinda
looks like a slithery little
snaaaake... that has ears and
horns ... that’s actually a pretty
creepy look to be honest!

Add the fur stripe

Using the fur yarn, I normally
single crochet a straight light
from the tip of the tail, all the
way to just above the eyes.
Feel free to throw some HDCs
and DCs at the mid-way point to
make the back look more arched.
14/20
Sew thighs to body
The back of the thigh is where all
of your decreases are, as shown
in the picture to the right. Decreases

The back of the thigh should start

somewhere around rnd 75/76
and the front should be around
rnd 80/81
Make sure your thighs are placed Decreases /
evenly on both sides so that your back of thigh

feet will be able to lay flat on the

ground once they are attached.
Stuff them more if needed while
sewing.
Sew feet to body
The feet won’t have an exact
spot but place them so they
lay flat and so that the body
doesn’t look like its lopsided.
I usually place mine facing
outward a little bit.
Make sure to secure the feet
to the thighs so that they
don’t flop around when you
pick up your dragon.

15/20
 Sew the arms
on to the body
I don’t have an exact row for these,
place them just below the neck
and facing out as if the dragon is
sprawled out with their arms over
their head.
Basically just make sure they don’t
make the body look like its
lopsided when looking at it from
the front.
What the body looks
like from the top
after sewing on all
the limbs

Sew the wings

on to the back
Start by lining up the very top inner
corner of the wing (where the
sewing tail is) with the approx. rnd
90 or the front of where the arms lie.
I like my wings to have a slanted look
so I sew them another stitch further
away from the center every other
rnd.
I like to be able to drape the wings
over the arms.

16/20
 Sew the tail
pieces on
Start by sewing on tail piece
#1to the center of the end of the
tail.
Once that bad boy is secure, sew
on tail pieces #2 & #3 on either
side of it and secure them!

Finishing Touches
Sew on the nose slits,
placement is preference but, I
have mine placed from about
the top of rnd 1 to rnd 2,
approx. 2-3 stitches apart
and they are slanted
upwards. I quite literally have
yet to make mine look even...
Add a little fluffy yarn
around the horns for a
feathery look. This is what I
did with my dragon.
I usually just wrap it around
the base of the horn once
and then secure it in place in
a few spots.

17/20
 Finishing Touches cont.
If you’re sewing on the eyes, I`ll
link a video below that helped
me figure out the shape I liked,
the creator is Tranglupattern on
YouTube and I added on little
eyelashes to my eye slits
afterwards.
This might take a few trial and
errors moments for you, don't
get frustrated, you're literally
almost done :)
She starts the eyes at about the
2 minute mark, mine are placed
at about rounds 7 -10 (which
you can see here on the blue
dragon) with a slight slant down
and the eyelashes are each
about 1 stitch long. eye embroidery tutorial
I honestly think I now prefer the eye with no curve in it now that I`ve
done it but, please add your own flare or make them look however
you prefer!

Optional
Sew on some blush to your
baby dragon if you’d like as
well! I opted out on it this time
but the “OG” baby dragon does
have some that always adds
another level of cuteness!
18/20
Final Look

19/20
 WOO!
Can you believe you just made this super cute baby dragon with your
own hands?!
Thank you so much for buying and using my pattern! I genuinely
appreciate it from the bottom of my heart!!
Feel free to use what you create with this pattern to sell in your store
or at markets, just please make sure to credit me and include a link to
the pattern! :)
I hope you enjoyed this pattern and if you love what you’ve made
enough to post it, please tag me (@redmills_crochet) so I can see
your beautiful creations!!!
Thank you so much!
Cheers! - Millie
20/20