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Gold Trim Guide

This guide provides a step-by-step process for painting gold trim on Warhammer models using specific Citadel paints and techniques. It emphasizes the importance of highlight placement and blending to achieve a metallic appearance, while also offering tips for using mediums to improve paint application. The author encourages painters to experiment and develop their skills further with upcoming tutorials.

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236 views17 pages

Gold Trim Guide

This guide provides a step-by-step process for painting gold trim on Warhammer models using specific Citadel paints and techniques. It emphasizes the importance of highlight placement and blending to achieve a metallic appearance, while also offering tips for using mediums to improve paint application. The author encourages painters to experiment and develop their skills further with upcoming tutorials.

Uploaded by

theeclipseprotocol
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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gold trim guide

Metal trim has become


relatively common on
Warhammer models and can
increase the difficulty and time
needed to complete it. Using
metallic paints is always a valid
option, but for those wanting to
go the extra mile for their unique
units, this guide will give you a
LEG up in understanding how to
do it.
what you will need
Paints:
 Rhinox Hide - Citadel
 Mournfang Brown - Citadel
 XV88 - Citadel
 Balor Brown - Citadel
 Ice Yellow - Ak Interactive
the brush

For the gold trim, I will be using a


size 0 Artis Opus M series.
Typically, I use the S series, but I
decided to give these shorter hair
brushes a try.
The brand you use doesn't matter
so much. Just make sure you're
using a smaller brush with a good
tip!
step 1

Our first step is the simplest but


the most time-consuming. We
will base coat all of our trim with
Rhinox Hide. Take your time and
try your best to keep things
clean. I thinned the Rhinox Hide
with a 1:1 ratio with water.
step 2
Highlight placement is
where things get confusing.
When I first started
painting, I was very
intimidated by gold trim
because of all of its weird
shapes. I assumed my
highlight placements would
be equally strange and
complex, but not so!
Instead of looking at the
trim specifically, look at the
shape of the body part it's
wrapped around.
The trim is the same shape as the cylinder it's wrapped
around. It's just a "cut out" or segment. Therefore, we know
that its highlights must match how cylinders would look.
Please refer to my highlight placement guide if you require
more clarification!
Because of its shape resembling that
of a cylinder, I will place a large
highlight going up and down the
length with Mournfang Brown. Ill also
add 2 secondary reflections on the
opposite sides of our main highlight.
This will give it a very metallic and
reflective appearance. These
secondaries will usually be smaller
and less intense than our primary
reflection.
step 3

For this step, we are going to paint


within our previous highlight layer
but leaving just enough for
Mournfang Brown to still be
visible.

This step is done with XV88 and im


mostly just doing small dots and
scratch marks where the color
fades into Mournfang Brown. Ill
continue to use this technique for
all future layers as well.
Important note

When it comes to highlights, you may find yourself confused


as to how large each layer should be. For metallics, I was
shown this image by pro painter Dave Colwell.
Between these two examples, the top has a much more metallic
characteristic. Metal, when not dull, has very high contrast. It is
often consumed by bright highlights and dark shadows. The mid
tones keep to a very small area, but still need to be visible as
they help define the true color of whatever metal we are
painting.
step 4

With that note in mind, we can


now add our next layer of
highlights, Balor Brown.

We are again painting within the


previous highlight and only
leaving a very small area of XV88
visible.
step 5

For our final highlight im


going to be using a
50:50 mixture of ice
yellow and Balor Brown.

I will also be edge


highlighting all of the trim
with this color as well
step 6

After applying a final highlight


of pure ice yellow, I blended the
layers.

Because we used dots and


scratches where our layers
merged, we can make short
work of blending them with
glazes! If you're unfamiliar with
glazing, please read my
blending guide.
For the secondary reflections, I
didn't go as intense. For the
reflection on the right, I stopped at
XV88. For the reflection on the left, I
stopped at Mournfang Brown. Doing
so creates more variety and realism.

Painters new to NMM will often


paint a checker pattern regarding
highlights. By making your
reflections less uniform, you add
more visual interest and beauty to
your work.
hot tip

When glazing lighter colors, like ice


yellow, we can often find ourselves
creating chalky or undesirable tide
marks. This is because of the pigment
size for lighter colors. I've recently
started to use a unique medium for
those colors and love how smooth it
makes my paint.

I use scale 75's "dispel magic."


Lahmian medium by citadel has
similar properties and results. It's
worth checking out!
I hope you guys found this tutorial useful on your journey to
better understanding NMM. Ill be creating some more
tutorials from this model, including the steel ribcage so stay
tuned! Thanks so much for the support and happy painting!

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