Canaduino Diy Plc-100 v2
Canaduino Diy Plc-100 v2
INTRODUCTION
CANADUINO PLC-100 V2 is a Do-It-Yourself kit that requires only basic soldering and troubleshooting
skills. The included, already assembled DC-DC converter module guarantees the correct operating voltage
for every part of the device. The recommended minimum supply voltage is 12.2V DC to guarantee the full
0-10V analog output voltage range. At 12V supply voltage, the analog outputs are limited to about 9.6V,
which is still within the typical 5% tolerance of 0-10V systems.
The supply voltage or digital input voltage must not exceed 24V DC. The operating current is <500mA.
The device offers 4 opto-insulated, digital inputs, operating safely on any input voltage between 3.3V and
24V for HIGH level. The six digital outputs are fast acting relays OMRON G5NB-1A-E with about 10ms
operate and release time, and high-capacity 5A contacts.
The 0-10V analog inputs and outputs are compatible with many common applications like motor speed
controllers, light dimmers, and dimmable LED ballasts. The module even provides a stabilized 10V DC
supply voltage for those devices. The 0-10V analog inputs are protected against voltages of up to 30V DC.
We integrated a real-time-clock with battery backup for timer-controlled applications like, for example, a
garden watering system. The RTC is connected to the I2C bus (address 0x68) which can also be accessed
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on the STEMMA compatible connector to connect external devices like sensors, displays, or any other
devices and modules from Adafruit, Seeed Studio, Sparkfun, and other vendors.
Screw terminals for wire gauge 22-14 AWG (1.5mm max.) guarantee reliable connections as required in
professional and semi-professional equipment. The four mounting holes with 3.2mm diameter will take M3
bolts or standoffs for easy mounting to a base plate or inside of a control cabinet.
ASSEMBLING
Assembling is really easy. Of course, you must possess soldering and troubleshooting experience, but you
are not required to have an engineering degree to get this module set up and running. The provided
images (see website), schematic and BOM explain exactly how it’s done. But for newbies, we have some
recommendations to get started and avoid frustration:
Important notes:
Pin 1 of the ICs is always marked with a dot or notch and is the bottom-left pin when you can
read the imprint on the package.
Pin 1 (or common) on resistor networks is always marked with a dot and/or is the most left pin
when you can read the print on the package. This pin needs to line up with the marking (filled
square) on the PCB.
LEDs always have a long (A) and a short (K) lead. We printed the polarity on the PCB.
Electrolytic capacitors have [-] printed on them, and [+] is the longer lead.
If you assemble parts with many pins, like ICs or resistor networks, it is always recommended to only
solder 1 or 2 pins of each component, then flip the board over, and make sure the parts are nicely lined up
before soldering all remaining pins.
1. Start with the lowest profile parts like the I2C pull-up resistors.
2. Proceed with the next taller parts, like MLCCs and LEDs. If you want, assemble the IC sockets. But
for long-term reliability in a stressing environment, like high temperature differences or high
humidity level, IC sockets are not recommended. At last, assemble relays and the battery holder.
3. Before you solder the DC-DC power supply module to the board, remove the unnecessary pin
from the 6-pin female header by just pulling it out. Please leave about 2mm distance between the
tallest parts on the DC-DC module (inductors) and the main PCB.
4. When everything is assembled, proceed with commissioning.
COMMISSIONING
Check the board with a magnifier glass and good lighting for shorts, bad solder joints or switched
components. If everything looks good, provide power to the board (12-24V DC) and measure the 5V and
10V output voltages on the screw terminals. If the 10V is available, then the 11V must be available as well.
No smoke? Then insert your Arduino Nano module, the RTC backup battery, and load our demo sketch to
test inputs, outputs, and the real-time-clock, before you start creating your sketch.
The port mapping is on the schematic. It might seem confusing, but it takes care of the chip’s limitations:
Not all ports can be used as digital outputs, and not all digital outputs are PWM-capable which is required
for analog outputs. Just map the port numbers to “const” variables in your code:
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void setup() {
// Initialize the pins
pinMode(X4, INPUT); // Set X4 as input
pinMode(YA2, OUTPUT); // Set YA2 as output
pinMode(Y1, OUTPUT); // Set Y1 as output
}
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PARTS LIST
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